Anodizing an M16A4 Lower
Вставка
- Опубліковано 5 січ 2018
- Now that I have the etching done, it's time to do a little anodizing. I have done one of these videos in the past but I keep getting questions about it so I decided to do another one. The main thing that I learned was to just take your time and don't try and rush things. If you have any questions just fire away. Thanks, and enjoy.
- Розваги
The Lye actually eats aluminium. It's used to remove a very, very thin layer of oxidation that forms when raw aluminium is exposed to the air. If you were to leave it too long, it will fully desolve, but it would take a long time depending on ph levels of the solution. But, the longer you leave it, the less tight the tolerances will be.
True, very good point. 👍
I just used it to strip the dye from a handguard. Didn't measure, just made it highly concentrated and only kept it in for a couple minutes.
Pulled it out and wiped it down. Kept the anodizing pretty well intact
Really like your videos! The worst thing for me is I’m a safety professional by trade and I hate to cringe enjoying your videos. Now before the haters start calling me a pawn of the nanny state, I’m not. I find myself breaking the basics all the time. Please allow me to just do my thing that I’ve taken an oath to do, which means as long as I tried to help, I’ve done my part. Minimum safety glasses with the lye and acid in case of a splash. Neoprene gloves, nitrile will not work. Lye and sulphuric acid should be separated by at least 10 feet. Your daughter is beautiful, keep her out of the area and keep her beautiful. Them bubbles are hydrogen if I recall coming off the anodizing tank. Good to have it ventilating through the fan, not so much using a fan that is not rated to operate in an explosive environment, but I don’t think the concentration level is high enough to cause a flash. Last is no hand to face touching when handling these chemicals and keep a bottle of distilled water close for nothing other than to rinse your eyes, face or other body parts that may be exposed by accident. I really enjoy your videos and learned a bunch about etching and other skills. Just had to add my suggestions so you don’t lose and eye or finge...never mind the last comment :)
Guilty as charged. I know I should take some better safety precautions when dealing with these chemicals, and I know it must drive some people up the wall. Thanks for the input though man. And thanks for the support.
heeder777
Amen. A beautiful family please stay that way.
You are not a pawn of the nanny state, if one of my employees was that careless with lye solution/sulfuric acid - he'd be walked out the door the same day. If he was that careless with a toddler walking around, he'd be dragged out. Careless hacks like this make everybody who works hard to do things the right way look bad and reflects terribly on all gun owners.
Dude just shut up no once cares.
@@CalebDowning does the diy method give a gritty surface that i can use to bond to? I.e. kg gunkote
Touches acetone, rubs eye
Haha yup, oops 🤦♂️
i was just thinking that, scroll down and sure enough....
First thing I noticed!
In two weeks I start my capstone ar10 project. I was looking for anodizing the lower and rail. Great video. Just subscribed
Hey, another SDI guy! Thanks for the sub and encouragement. Good luck on your capstone, your gonna love it 👍
Wow!!! Looks Awesome!!! Saving money is always a good thing!! DYI projects are simple , right tools n common sense!! Cool!!
Thanks man. And you are right on about the tools and common sense.
I watched this a while back but I’m glad I did it again because I think I’m gonna try it on an 80% thanks buddy 👍👍👍👍👍✅✅✅✅✅ love the channel!!!
Good luck man. Be sure to keep everything super clean 🧼
Thanks for the support Mark!
Just received my ar10 build. It has a 18” inch heavy barrel and a rifle length gas tube. The 308 gen 1 jig is heavy duty. This will be a blast to build.
Great vid appreciate your honesty when you weren't sure on something. Glossy finish from your sanding. Light sand blasting would give you that rough milspec looking finish. Anyway great info thank you!
Well thanks man, I love the support 👍 since the video I’ve done the sand blasting and your are spot on 🤙
Hi!! Thanks for the vídeo. I loved it. I'll try to do it but in airsoft metalic replicas. Big hughs to your little one!!
"I just finished milling out my new M16 lower" funny
One of the things to keep in mind when home anodizing is the thickness of the oxidation. The various pins may be harder to insert into the lower due to the build up of the oxidation during the process. I read that manufacturers compensate for this by making the holes in the lower slightly bigger than needed so that when the oxidation process is complete the pins fit snuggly and won't be too difficult to insert or remove.
Good info 👍
Like your videos Caleb! That beard is growing!!
Got a kick out of you and your little helper! Looks like a fun project
Haha, she’s quite the help I’ll tell you that 😆
Best anodizing home brew video so far. No BS just beards making sense of the process. Btw, sandblasting will make a matte finish or a type 3 mil spec anode.
Haha, thanks Paco! 👊🏻 🧔♂️
I’ve done the sandblasting thing since doing this video and yes, it made a big difference for me 👌
Sandblasting doesn't make it type 3. This is bad information.
The difference in gloss vs dull is the uncontrolled process, etching solutions, duration, etc. Mil-spec uppers and lowers are Type III Class 2 and produce a thicker, harder, duller coating. Anodizing is meant to be a current driven process, because as the coating thickness grows, the current changes. Class just being, un-dyed vs dyed.
Im late to the Party!!, Heeder777 called it out, I hope you listened to em. 35 yrs in heavy industry Ive seen things laying on the floor and other places that should have remained attached to a body. heart breaking. Nice Job excellent use of layman's terms. Do it for your kids !!! I got 3 left to do and always watching around for tips an tricks, Good Job young man ! God Bless.
Thanks man 😃👍
@@CalebDowning Most welcome Indeed!
Neighbor probably think he’s got a meth lab
Haha, probably 😂
The Brush Dragon 😂🤣😂🤣
Once you used that aluminum rod for your lower, it became anodized, which reduces its conductivity. Then you tried to use it on your upper. Resulting in a bad connection, and poor anodizing. That's why your upper looks unsatisfactory.
But wouldn't putting the aluminum rod in the lye with the upper have removed any anodizing?
No
Bro, Aluma-hyde is your friend. With that level of prep work the AH would lay down smooth and look great. I was gonna go your route, until someone recommend the AH at Brownells. I just finished spraying a rusty 10/22 barrel (after sanding and cleaning) and it looks fantastic. I like to Sun dry here in SoCal for about two weeks before use, but for an upper and lower you can bake it in the oven. Great stuff. Peace.
I've never had much luck with alumahyde. To be fair to myself, I followed the directions to a T, including buying more replacement nozzles. Came out extremely rough with a pebble finish.
Now I do this anodizing at home and it's much easier.
@@rawhides That's great, but too much work for me. I may try Cerokating at home, butt the aluma-hyde has worked well for me. Low humidity, 80 degree plus ambient temperature, several light coats from 10-12 inches applied just a few minutes apart and then a long, warm 2 week curing before use. I gotta shoot my Anderson lowers in FDE out were I live. Thanks for your response and stay safe. Peace.
I'm going to go with the DIY thing is self justifying. It's your work. It only has to be perfect if you pay someone else to do it. Also, in times like these, these are the sort of projects that should be documented and out there. Fine video. I did stick with it until the end.
You've probably noticed that prices for this sort of thing are rising rapidly. Politicians are trying to regulate this stuff out of existence. So it's also a now or never sort of project.
Solid points man. Do it while you can. 👍
Great video man, no bs long drawn-out explanation of your feelings on any other bullshit about anodizing, just this is how... watch this shit, boom you're educated, done. Man you did great video dude
Thanks man 👍
First thing first Look's Great. Use a cotinuity light before you dye it to tell if it's been anodized 100% moving it to different section, when we did our clean at the plant i worked out we only etched(cleaned) for 30-60 second's when the part turns black usually mean's it's clean.
Excellent info man thanks! 👍
the lye helps remove the superhard aluminum oxide layer on the surface so that the anodizing solution can attach to the base metal
Can u use the lye to make 5he aluminum black instead of dying the aluminum?
@@michaellydon6976 i dont think aluminum naturally color anodizes like other metals do
Great video!
I just have some questions, can you help me?
1- What was the first process, degrease?
2 - Which product did you use Acetone or Crystal Drain Opener 100% LYE?
3- Diluted in the distilled water in which fraction?
4 - The battery acid was in which fraction in the distilled water?
5- DYE to the fire did you dilute?
sorry for so many questions, I did not understand very well, my English is very little, written I can understand better. Many thanks to all who collaborate with this.
Sorry, this took me awhile to get to your answers. Let me know if this helps and if you have any more questions.
1- What was the first process, degrease?
Answer: Yes. You will need to make sure that there are no contaminants on the piece that is going to be anodized; that includes dust, dirt, and oils.
2 - Which product did you use Acetone or Crystal Drain Opener 100% LYE?
Answer: I used Acetone and Simple Green to degrease and clean. I used the 100% lye to strip off any previous anodization as well as anything the Acetone didn’t get. The lye also eats a little into the aluminum and helps prep the metal to be anodized.
3- Diluted in the distilled water in which fraction?
Answer: I basically used a cup of lye to a gallon of water. You can go heavier here if you want.
4 - The battery acid was in which fraction in the distilled water?
Answer: I used a 1/1 ratio. So one gallon of water to one gallon of acid.
5- DYE to the fire did you dilute?
Answer: I just filled up my pan with water and then added the whole bottle of dye. I was trying to go for as dark of a black color as I could, so I added as much dye to the bath as I could.
Thanks a lot for the videos.
No problem man, glad you enjoy the content 👍
If you were going for the dark matte grey/black finish like that found on Midwest Industries rails requires a different anodizing system altogether.
One can use a rust and stain remover to strip the dye off of an anodized part. Not sure if you have to put back through the acid bath treatment to get new dye to stick. I have almost fell into the black hole of youtube vids on ano and removing it tonight. Came across on your vid, and its very good info! I like how the colors turned out on the parts. And to top it all off, you did this vid on my birthday!
👍👍 I’m glad you enjoyed the video man!
@@CalebDowning I did just find out, if you stripped the ano and color off to change it, you must reano the part. Not bad!
How's it going!! Rock ON!! Looking forward to see the build!!!
So far it’s been fun. This should end up a perty sweet build.
4:23 It's crazy the ATF showed up while you were working on it.
Love the beard 🧔
Damn it man this is pretty sweet... A Shot Show video for the Ghost Gunner 3 desktop CNC machine popped up and I've been going down a rabbit hole trying to figure out if I buy it to machine AR15 lowers from bar stock how would I do the anodizing... LOL I seen a video from you and was like hell yeah this might be doable!!!
Are the aluminum rods that goes in the handgrip screw made specifically for ar lowers? Or did you make it?
I just used an aluminum hanger, nothing special.
Where did you get that rod you’re using? I tried using steel wire and about 45 minutes through it ate right through it and dropped my lower
I’m using a thick aluminum hanger. Its lasted me quite a long time.
Like, what battery charger do you specifically use because every last one I have won’t turn on when i do this. I even went out and got a new one and it keeps blinking the light for “wrong connection”
Are you using an automatic battery charger?
The textured look can be achieved by sanding the metal before anodizing
What grit of sand paper would you need to use? I have sanded before but I think it was too fine and ended up being more of a polish than a texture 🤔
Caleb Downing she probably means sand blasting
Hey how many amps does your battery charger put out? Really interested in this. Thank you.
I switched to a power duly from eBay and I believe it’s a 30v 5a. I killed that battery charger awhile back and chucked it, I’m not sure what amps it had.
I actually like the deeper oil slick black look that turned out on your lower. I’m not a huge fan of the grayish anodizing on milspec parts.
It was unique, that’s for sure 👍
What size cooler and how many bags of ice.
is anodizing the threads for the damper and also the grip going to cause problems? Do you need to like run a tap through them after or is it not that much material that it effects the strength adds friction?
So far I haven’t had any issues. The threads on for the pistol grip don’t get an even anodization because they are the attachment point for the aluminum rod.
@@CalebDowning where did you get the rod so i know where to get one so i can anodize my lowers
That rod is just an old aluminum hanger, nothing special 😁
So I will be building my first one in a few months. My question is I have a 80% lower that is Anodized, and after I mill it what do you do for the area that was milled? Thanks Love the vid by the way.
Hey James 👋
First off congrats on getting into your first build 👊🏻 Now for your question... For me, if the 80% is already anodized and I go ahead and mill it out and drill the holes, then unless I scratched up the outside then I’d just leave it. The milled/shiny parts are gonna be on the inside of the receiver and folks really aren’t gonna see it. If you really want to get color on it then look at BROWNELLS - ALUMA-HYDE® II. That stuff will be cheaper and you can just apply it to the inside of the receiver where you cut.
In order to anodize the cut parts I believe you’d have to strip the whole receiver and anodize the entire piece, so treat it like a raw piece and go through the whole process like I did in the video.
A lot of decisions to make there, best of luck. Ultimately as long as the gun thorns out how you like it then it’s a win. 👍🤙
What website did you get those lowers? You didn't mention in the description.
I get my lowers from joeboboutfitters and righttobear. I can’t link to them here but those are the companies. The best ones I’ve used for clone work come from righttobear.
How durable is this against dings and scratches? I need to anodize my aluminum men's ring designs.
It’s not as durable as some factory anodized parts but it’s held up pretty well.
Does anyone know if there's a pdf or video that shows how to do mil spec hard anodizing?
I’d love to know this too 🤔
@@CalebDowning Don't know that it's milspec, but caswell plating has a setup for type iii. Temperature and current control are much more important on that one. Colors are limited too.
Have you ever tried using salt ice to keep the temperature cooler while anodizing? Salt ice absorbs heat more rapidly than regular ice does. This means it will keep whatever you are using it to cool at a lower temperature than regular ice will, but it also means that it will melt more quickly than normal ice will.
Good idea, I’ll have to try that next time 👍
Salt Ice lowers the freezing temp of the water. We used it for making homemade ice cream.
Mythbusters tested and proved it is as cold as 15 F compared to 32 F without salt.
Same reason we put it on the roads.
I would love to be able to do our own anodizing at home but our parts are small and don't have a way to hang them. Any ideas?
There are some other videos out there that show folks anodizing some smaller parts on a small scale. I’d look them up if I was you and see if their methods work better than my setup.
Basically you should just be able to scale things down to meet your needs.
Hi will you please tell me more about that RIT dye which kind of this dye is is it specific only for aluminium dye
I get the RIT dye from Walmart right in the detergent section. It is not advertised as a metal dye, as far as I know. It is supposed to be used as a clothing dye. I have had mixed results with it though. I had a couple lowers come out looking amazing and others where the dye didn’t stick at all. A lot goes into this so it was more likely the anodizing process and not the dye, but something went wrong.
Caleb Downing Thanks a lot
What did you use to provide the electric current?
I got a 30V 5-10A power supply from eBay. It worked pretty well for a couple times but then something happened and this last time things didn’t go right 🤷♂️ I don’t think it’s the power supply’s fault though.
Awesome
Great video ......just need to heed the safety warnings from the crowd
Thanks man👍
Great job!
Thanks 👊🏻
Maybe bead blast first to get the texture you prefer, then do the process of cleaning and coloring then finally the anodizing.
O man, if I had a bead blaster these lowers would look much better.
@@CalebDowning bead blasting is exactly what I thought would fix your finish
What are the pros and cons of doing this over Cerakote?
Anodizing is much more complicated and requires some nasty chemicals. But anodizing also hardens the outside layer of the metal.
Cerakote is relatively simple to apply. It also is fairly abrasion resistant and comes it a wide variety of colors.
Cerakote can also be applied to most materials whereas anodizing is reserved for aluminum.
As a practicality, how did you handle and dispose of your dye? I would be terrified of spilling any.
I just pour out the dye in the sink. I hadn’t stained the sink or anything yet.
Lye is used as a drail cleaner, so pouring it down the drain will be fine. Wear gloves and safety glasses when you do it! You really don't want to get lye solution on your skin or especially in your eye!
True that ☝️
The lye strips any existing oxide layers from the surface.
Wow, way back machine when lr's were under 30.
Lucky to get under 130 now.
BF deals at 60.
If you really want to test the anodizing, you can prove the surface with a multimeter measuring the resistance and it should not conduct.
I’ll try that, thanks 👍
Sure thing man, I’m actually doing my lower today hopefully. I did two so far with battery acid, but I’m going to give it a try using the sodium bisulphate (PH down) method and see how that goes... I’ve heard you need to mix it at 30% and run with height current to get a good coating, we’ll see though!
Keep me posted on that. Interested to see how that turns out 🤔
I don't know if someone can help me with my random question but at 21:07 when he pulls out the PSA lower what is that sticker on it? I've seen it on numerous AR's throughout the youtube and instagram gun community and have no idea what it is used for. My curiosity is killing my cat.
That was just a sticker I printed off. It’s supposed to look like the UID labels that the military uses. You can get some real ones from “Carolina Laserworks”. I’ve gotten some from him and they are super legit 👌
@@CalebDowning bro, you’re the man. Thank you. Being a civi in the FFL/SOT world means I don’t always know some of the cool stuff I never got to see haha. Thanks so much
Not a problem man 👍 These tags are technically used on other items besides firearms. It’s just a way for them to be tracked and accounted for.
@@CalebDowning yeah that was the education I need. I saw that it’s a pretty efficient cataloguing system for assets. Thanks again for helping educate it.
👊🏻
Does anyone know who can Hard Coat anodize rifles?
I know there are some companies out there that offer the service but I’m not sure on which ones 🤔
Try looking up Vegas Metal Finishing. It looks like they specialize in it.
What all is in your dye solution?
Gust Rit Dye and distilled wate.
What type of aluminum did you use for the negative side?
It was just a piece of sheet aluminum from Lowe’s.
@@CalebDowning I'm going to do you and myself a favor. I work in the aviation field and I'm very familiar with different types of grades even though I don't specialize in it. I am kind of curious because there are different types of mixtures of metals in different grades of aluminum. I'm going to find out which one is optimal for 7075-T6.
Give me a few days and I'll see if I can find out this answer from one of the guys that I work with, hoping this will help you out for your future build and mine too.
@@CalebDowning is that a 6061 or a 7075 receiver
@JasonShipp That would be awesome to find out 👍 I believe the lowers I use are 7075.
I talked to a whole bunch of people, and I'm still waiting for more information in the process. One anodizing company recommends using the same metal as what you're Anodizing. Now the question I'm waiting for if "alclad" makes a big deal or not, if you don't know alclad is it's basically is a metal on each side of the metal and we're talking thousandths of an inch.
It is usually referenced like this on a sheet of aluminum. ALCAD 7075-T6 AMS 4046.
18:18 "You don't want them to touch, it will arc and create a spark. They're not touching, but they are very close." Then proceeds to move them closer together. lol I'm just razzing you man. Good job on the anodizing. I concur with heeder777, practice safe anodizing! :) Were those fumes pretty bad? Also, what did you do for disposal of the acid and lye? Thanks for taking the time to post your process.
When checking the anodizing I would try to hold my breath or just breath as little as possible. The fumes weren’t too bad but you don’t want to breath much of it in.
To get rid of the used lye you can deactivate it with baking soda and dump it down the drain.
@@CalebDowning lye is already a very strong alkaline. Baking soda is also alkaline, thus baking soda WILL NOT neutralize a lye solution.
FYI, Bro.
Good catch Dallas, I miss spoke there. The baking soda is for the acid bath and the vinegar is for the lye.
@@CalebDowning No worries.
Still an informative video though.
Thanks!
The EPA must love you! Ha!
😁
you polished it...of course it going to have a gloss finish. next time just sandblast and leave it
I would blast it if I had the stuff to do it with. The Lye is supposed to rough up the finish a little. I know what your saying though. 👍
"I don't know" seems to be the main theme, followed by "I don't care" and a boat load of 'unsure'. Thanks but NO thanks.
Haha, thanks man 👍
great video!!! been looking for a good video that shows from start to finish. thnx for making this one!!! but wheres the link for the lowers?
Thanks man. This is why I make these videos, in hope that one day someone will find them somewhat helpful. The lowers are from Right To Bear www.righttobear.com/AR15-80-Lower-Receiver-Cerro-Forge-RAW-p/80raw-1.htm They say they are on sale but the first time I ordered from them the lowers were $26.
Caleb Downing kool thnx!!! order a few today. still the cheapest ive seen online.
Damn I really wish I knew somebody in Houston that could help me with this the first time. Anyways, semper fi teuflehunden
I may make another more technical video on this. After doing this lower I tried it on another lower and it was a flop. I think the battery charger gave out so the current was not consistent. Anyways, Semper Gumby bro 👍
what exact model of battery charger do you use?
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009IBJBM?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
This one worked well for a couple electro etchings and a couple anodizings but then it gave out. But that’s what I used in the video.
You're awesome. BTW the warranty says you are covered for 2 years.
True 🤔 I’ve already replaced it with a digital power source from eBay. The 30V 5/10A model. www.ebay.com/itm/30V-5-10A-Adjustable-Precision-Regulated-DC-Power-Supply-Digital-LED-Display-AH/152610799758?hash=item238850008e%3Am%3AmL5U0J2Ij48pxLqbNI6Ce5Q&var=452193659585
I used it for an electro etch but haven’t anodized with it yet.
I use to think my hillbilly neighbor was cooking meth, but after watching your video I think maybe he was just anodizing!!
Haha, ya it looks a little sketch if folks don’t know what your doing. Who knows what my neighbors think I’m doing 😁
It's called bead blasting!
Probably the difference between rit dye and anodizing dye. The rit dye always looks metallicy /glossy
Being a Plumber for 30 years all this stuff is on my truck....less the die. BE SAFE with Lye and or acid...no joke it will eat you skin off and rust everything in your shop over night!. Not to mention clothes and body parts. That aside, the neg. lead is on the sacrificial Anode....just like in a water heater and the pos. on the work. Just curious....how much to send a lower/upper set out for finish compared to time and buying the stuff? Trust me I would diy it too, just curious. G>
I hear ya man, thanks for the caution 👍 I’ll check the prices to get something professionally anodized and get back with you( If anyone else knows then please chime in).
Edit: so it looks like New Frontier Armory offers anodizing for $15 🤔 They can do unfinished 80% lowers and finished ones(as long as they are properly marked).
What was the mixture for the dye to water ?
About a gallon of water to a full bottle of dye.
@@CalebDowning Thank you ! It would be awesome if you put up a list of everything you used to do this. The video is great !
I’m gonna try to do it in brown/FDE here pretty soon I think. I’ll probably do a video on that one and be more detailed on “how to”. Thanks man, glad you enjoyed it 👍
@@CalebDowning That would be awesome !
Do you have to color it right after anodizing? or can you wait a day or so?
You need to seal the aluminum directly after anodizing. If you wait to seal it until a couple days after then you might be able to color it then. I haven’t tried that though 🤷♂️
just power coat thats what i do works great
Ok 1 big thing here is the fact you're using ( Caustic Soda) aka: (sodium hydroxide) to etch your receiver depending on how hot you have it it will literally eat the aluminum!
There's no need for all that if you just use acetone,
I don’t want to be ‘that guy’, but you had a toddler running around with all this going on and you said you were the one watching her? Weren’t you a little worried when she wasn’t in your sight?
Valid question. But no, I wasn’t worried about her. For parts of the video my wife was home and other times she was close by.
Caleb Downing
Ok. A father myself, it was on my mind the whole time I was watching.
I hear ya 👍
I was told nobody will touch an un-numbered gun part
I won’t mess with others finished 80%’s but my own I will 👍
Better be careful with that clone lower. Even know the third pin hole is not drilled out, the ATF determined that lowers that mark the location for the 3rd pin hole for the FA sear are deemed as machine guns, and are not legal to own.
Hey Jordan! I own one of your lowers
@@r0nb0h0ju Haha wussup
@@Nordic_Goon just filed my first form 1 and was watching this guys electro etching and this video
@@Nordic_Goon I got one of the letters from the AFT about my Diversified Machine products lol
@@r0nb0h0ju Dang, I never got one. I did hear they were sending them out
Acid-tone then rubs eye:
After this he was forever known as “patch”
Great job on the lower. Awful lot of work, I’ll just paint mine 😉
It is a lot of detail oriented work…
Anodized an aluminum lower with a sheet of aluminum....
You need to sandblast that thing first man. More surface area and it gives it more areas for the crystalization process and it won't be so shiny. Also gives it the right feel too. Get some polyethylene tubing and a small pump make a chiller that cycles through a bucket of ice water (like chilling your wort for beer) I find it keeps it consistently cooler. And save your chips or use 6061 as a cathode. And buy the 99% acid from the hardware store. It's way stronger than the 30 % crap from the auto store . You can use it for more stuff too. I thought this video was very informative. Reminds me of me!
Awesome, thanks for the tips 👍 I’m still figuring all this stuff out. I have a new batch of lowers that I’m gonna need to anodize so I’m always trying to refine my process.
PANIC - Positive Anode Negative Is Cathode. Part is “anodized”, thus the part is the anode.
Excellent tip! Thanks J 👍
The part is the anode; hence "anodized."
Byron Watkins Sorry bro. Wrong answer. The part is attached to the positive lead which is the cathode. The sacrificial piece of aluminum is attached to the negative lead, the anode. Google is your friend.
you definitely don't have it in 50% hydrochloric acid.
Totally 🤙
cant watch.
that's not an M-16 lower
THIS is an M-16 lower.
Some people should not be playing with dangerous chemicals. Those toxic fumes and his daughter standing right beside him. Not so bright.
Stick to your day job.
Being a person who always prepare before starting something I had never done previously, I found you repeated use of "I don't know" and "what ever" annoying. I won't get into all the things I saw that made me cringe. WOW!
Haha, that’s why this is under “entertainment” and not educational. Each to their own, thanks for the feedback 👍
@@CalebDowning o k ?
That’s an AR 15 lower. The misinformation in your informational videos is astounding.
Don't be dense. It is whatever he marked it as. FN sells this finished rifle marked as M16A4, and what do you think the FFL marks it as?
Why in the HELL do you have your little girl in the room. Your playing with chemical
“Pay attention to detail”…but doesn’t know any of them…doesn’t know solution ratios, times, temperatures, or prep details (sandpaper grit)…and he’s trying to teach us…🤦♂️
yeah 😁
@@CalebDowning F’n autocorrect…it was right when I typed it…🤦♂️
@@CalebDowning f’n autocorrect…it was right when I typed it…as many times as it has got me, I would think I would now by know to check a sure thing…🤦♂️
Haha, I figured. Hear ya though
I see what you did their 😉
Just received my ar10 build. It has a 18” inch heavy barrel and a rifle length gas tube. The 308 gen 1 jig is heavy duty. This will be a blast to build.
Very nice man 👍 I still haven’t built mine but I’m looking forward to it.