Thanks much for your insight and for expanding my knowledge through your videos. I’ve been experiencing a communication error on a 24k btu Panasonic inverter can’t seem to find what’s causing the problem some help please
Always Great videos. Listening to a podcast a while back, they shared an acronym for the sequence of an Integrated Furnace Control and it went like this "Take It Slow Its Gonna Blow" , "T" is Thermostat , "I" is Inducer Motor , "S" is Safety (Pressure Switch) , "I" is Ignition , "G" is Gas , and finally "B" is Blower Motor" Hope it helps !
Most of time, it’s cold solder joint. During auto soldering process, most thin parts are ok, but larger parts, such as relay legs or power scr connections don’t have enough time or heat to melt the solder, causing cold solder joint. I use x10 or x30 magnifier to check those larger glob of solder. I fixed refrigerator and AC card. Once fixed w/o using costly parts, they seem to work forever. Ex USAF and LM guy. In other UA-cam site, many thanks from viewers. Thx
I was ready to replace the board on my unit, after a final inspection, the soldering on the red wire had broken off, re soldered it and the AC came back on.
As a newb your videos have been vital; THANKS!!! The board series you've done have been great! I studied them all last weekend; had a Lennox G24 that wasn't operating, just that "click" at the board and GV when trying to light. Went through the OofOp, got hung at the GV. Tested all mech components; OK. ohms and voltages OK til I got to the GV on the board. It was sending random shots between 25v and 17v with each "click" to the GV. The ambient temp at the time was running in the low 50s. After doing other research, I heated the GV up to just warm to the touch, fired it up and away it went! The house is in transition I guess, they want to keep temps lower until occupied but I have them keeping it warm until I get a new board in. I don't think it's the GV, I think it's the low sporadic voltage not strong enough to pull the plunger on the GV when it's cold, but I'm not 100% sure about that. Guess I'll know for sure when I see what V I get off the new board on the GV. Your opinion would be appreciated....
Very interesting! The best thing to do would be to pull off the hot wire from the gas valve and measure the voltage when the wires are off of the load. This would be when the wire is disconnected from the gas valve with the power off and then turn the power on and let the sequence for heat get to that part and measure it. Make sure you are getting 24v to 29v there without a load.
Beyond thankful to find your page. Your content is such a blessing. I’ve already subscribed some time ago and I just purchased your work book, textbook and reference cards off of amazon yesterday. Can’t wait to dive in. Blessings to you and yours & all you set your heart to do!🙏🏾
I put a generax gwnerator in a couple of yearrs ago an it seems like thats when my switch started to trip. Only when it gets below around 35 degrees. When thermostat suppose to switch from heat pump to furnace.
I recently had trouble with my heat pump defrost board with adaptive demand defrost. Tech replaced the board and thermistors, but I found the information on ADD for heat pumps was sparse. I was able to piece together enough information to get an understanding. Of course, there's no info on the algorithm used. I got interested because the tech moved the termination temp jumper from 70 to 50 erroneously thinking it worked like the run timer on timed defrost boards. Didn't impact my repair, but made me curious. I didn't find any info on the best termination temp except for refrigeration where you want it a low as possible to avoid cycling the product. My board comes defaulted at 70 but I saw others that came set to 50.
@@acservicetechchannel Why does blower motor use more power with warmer air ?? You would think with less dense air it would use less power. What is the theory behind this. Anyone know the answer ? Thanks in advance
Hey can you please help me figure this one out? My furnace stop working and I noticed the board was making a fast clicking noise, I bought a use board from ebay and installed but still the same, there's 118v coming to the board 84v coming to the transformer and 17 coming from the transformer
What would cause a blower motor to run slow but then when you reset the power to it runs normal for 5 or 10 minutes then goes back to running slow? Should I be focusing on the blower motor module? Blower motor? Or circuit board related like a relay? It will run slow and then once I turn power off and turn it back on it runs at full speed like everything is perfectly fine but only last for about 5 minutes before it goes back to slow and the motor makes some noise like it is trying to go faster....
On a relay for a refrigerator I am getting 12vdc on one side of the coil but the other only 6vdc...is that normal? Or are they supposed to be both 12vdc?
my goodman control board status light does not light up. it has 120 coming out of the board into the xformer but no 24v coming out of the xformer i already replaced xformer with 2 new xformers but still have no 24v coming out of the xformer.
I have a question about PVC vent pipes. What’s the difference between 636 pipes and ROYAL pipes. You know each one has its own glue (cement) I can’t understand this both are PVC. Isn’t this just the business? Thanks Hossein Ovaysi
It’s not something to understand. Only memorize. Draft inducer motor, pressure switch, ignition, gas valve, flame, and finally blower motor. If something drops out of that sequence, you know where your problem is. Most boards have diagnostic codes that flash on the indicator light.
My problem is.. after i changed the thermostat the fan stays on all the time no mater what settings i put it into... i took a pic of the wireing before i did anything , so i KNOW the wireing is ok
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Thanks much for your insight and for expanding my knowledge through your videos. I’ve been experiencing a communication error on a 24k btu Panasonic inverter can’t seem to find what’s causing the problem some help please
Always Great videos. Listening to a podcast a while back, they shared an acronym for the sequence of an Integrated Furnace Control and it went like this "Take It Slow Its Gonna Blow" , "T" is Thermostat , "I" is Inducer Motor , "S" is Safety (Pressure Switch) , "I" is Ignition , "G" is Gas , and finally "B" is Blower Motor" Hope it helps !
Absolutely, thanks William!
Licensed tech but haven't been in the field much for a few years. This is a great refresher for me and us exactly what I was looking for. THANK YOU
Can you help me with the 608 test
Most of time, it’s cold solder joint. During auto soldering process, most thin parts are ok, but larger parts, such as relay legs or power scr connections don’t have enough time or heat to melt the solder, causing cold solder joint. I use x10 or x30 magnifier to check those larger glob of solder. I fixed refrigerator and AC card. Once fixed w/o using costly parts, they seem to work forever. Ex USAF and LM guy. In other UA-cam site, many thanks from viewers. Thx
I was ready to replace the board on my unit, after a final inspection, the soldering on the red wire had broken off, re soldered it and the AC came back on.
As a newb your videos have been vital; THANKS!!! The board series you've done have been great! I studied them all last weekend; had a Lennox G24 that wasn't operating, just that "click" at the board and GV when trying to light. Went through the OofOp, got hung at the GV. Tested all mech components; OK. ohms and voltages OK til I got to the GV on the board. It was sending random shots between 25v and 17v with each "click" to the GV.
The ambient temp at the time was running in the low 50s. After doing other research, I heated the GV up to just warm to the touch, fired it up and away it went! The house is in transition I guess, they want to keep temps lower until occupied but I have them keeping it warm until I get a new board in. I don't think it's the GV, I think it's the low sporadic voltage not strong enough to pull the plunger on the GV when it's cold, but I'm not 100% sure about that. Guess I'll know for sure when I see what V I get off the new board on the GV. Your opinion would be appreciated....
Very interesting! The best thing to do would be to pull off the hot wire from the gas valve and measure the voltage when the wires are off of the load. This would be when the wire is disconnected from the gas valve with the power off and then turn the power on and let the sequence for heat get to that part and measure it. Make sure you are getting 24v to 29v there without a load.
@@acservicetechchannel OK great! We'll give that a go. THANKS!
Love your videos. I sometimes use them in the field just to refresh.
Thanks for all u do
Awesome! Thank you!
Thanks for all posts. Got your book yesterday from google play
Beyond thankful to find your page. Your content is such a blessing. I’ve already subscribed some time ago and I just purchased your work book, textbook and reference cards off of amazon yesterday. Can’t wait to dive in. Blessings to you and yours & all you set your heart to do!🙏🏾
Concise and eloquent as usual. Thanks again, amigo.
Thanks Hambone!
I do watch your videos over and over I like it thank you
Thank you! I had a dog in the vent and needed to clear it with a greased Scotsman.
Great details explanation as always, love all of your video, greatly appreciated!
Your videos are always on point. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks a lot!
Thank you for you sharing your knowledge 👍. Great video
Glad to help Shane!
Great video keep up the good work buddy 👍👍
Thanks T and T
Great video, many thanks.
Thanks Waterman!
Good clip ,thanks for information
Good video vary informative
Glad it was helpful!
thank you for sharing!!!!.
Glad to help!
Very Interesting. Thank you.
Thanks for the video =)
Good video!!
Thanks a lot Gray AC!
So many boards for the units! You have to know how to use you meter to trouble shoot!
Yeah absolutely! Thanks!
Very good video my friend.
Thank you very much
What could be the problem if the red light on the board is not on at all?
I put a generax gwnerator in a couple of yearrs ago an it seems like thats when my switch started to trip. Only when it gets below around 35 degrees. When thermostat suppose to switch from heat pump to furnace.
I recently had trouble with my heat pump defrost board with adaptive demand defrost. Tech replaced the board and thermistors, but I found the information on ADD for heat pumps was sparse. I was able to piece together enough information to get an understanding. Of course, there's no info on the algorithm used.
I got interested because the tech moved the termination temp jumper from 70 to 50 erroneously thinking it worked like the run timer on timed defrost boards. Didn't impact my repair, but made me curious. I didn't find any info on the best termination temp except for refrigeration where you want it a low as possible to avoid cycling the product. My board comes defaulted at 70 but I saw others that came set to 50.
If I do not have heater on my AC system, would it have a control board?
My blower motor pulls 50 watts more with warm 100F air vs cool air 60F due to density use a PSC motor 1/3HP.
Yes less efficient when warmer, thanks for sharing!
@@acservicetechchannel Why does blower motor use more power with warmer air ?? You would think with less dense air it would use less power. What is the theory behind this. Anyone know the answer ? Thanks in advance
HVAC control board troubleshooting
Hey can you please help me figure this one
out?
My furnace stop working and I noticed the
board was making a fast clicking noise, I
bought a use board from ebay and installed
but still the same, there's 118v coming to the
board 84v coming to the transformer and 17
coming from the transformer
What would cause a blower motor to run slow but then when you reset the power to it runs normal for 5 or 10 minutes then goes back to running slow?
Should I be focusing on the blower motor module? Blower motor? Or circuit board related like a relay?
It will run slow and then once I turn power off and turn it back on it runs at full speed like everything is perfectly fine but only last for about 5 minutes before it goes back to slow and the motor makes some noise like it is trying to go faster....
On a relay for a refrigerator I am getting 12vdc on one side of the coil but the other only 6vdc...is that normal? Or are they supposed to be both 12vdc?
my goodman control board status light does not light up. it has 120 coming out of the board into the xformer but no 24v coming out of the xformer i already replaced xformer with 2 new xformers but still have no 24v coming out of the xformer.
Does it matter if color code of wire is flipped on "sec 1 & sec 2 "..
Boards are hard to understand. Separate the low voltage side from the high side always got me and still does on occasion
I’m looking for a Control Board For Ple10b Series Oil Pack(b039). "42934-003”. Having a real hard time. One of the relays burnt out Any help?
I have a question about PVC vent pipes.
What’s the difference between 636 pipes and ROYAL pipes.
You know each one has its own glue (cement)
I can’t understand this both are PVC.
Isn’t this just the business?
Thanks
Hossein Ovaysi
My gas fires up but my blower doesn't run on auto but run on ON setting. Please help
how do you understand the sequence of operation on the board, also how do know what relay control what??
It’s not something to understand. Only memorize. Draft inducer motor,
pressure switch, ignition, gas valve, flame, and finally blower motor. If something drops out of that sequence, you know where your problem is. Most boards have diagnostic codes that flash on the indicator light.
My problem is.. after i changed the thermostat the fan stays on all the time no mater what settings i put it into... i took a pic of the wireing before i did anything , so i KNOW the wireing is ok
This doesn’t really tell me where to find my AC control board 😢
Terminalogy mistake by calling milli volts micro amps.
A lot of people do that.
Its never micro amp its milli volt.
Its measured with current in microamps. Work is being done as the voltage gets rectified to millivolts, thanks!
Poor training video It’s too basic