Great progress Tanner. Radium recommends 10 awg power and ground wires to the hangers. 14 awg might not cut it. I’m excited for the finish of the engine and to see it in.
From what I've read, break in for rotary is super important. I've seen as high as 1,000-2,000 miles before going for max power / final tune. They build compression over a long time and once you go for those big power numbers, whatever compression the engine has it won't rise anymore afterwards.
Yes. I mostly listen on headphones. And I've been writing hip-hop beats since the mid 90s (yeah I'm old), so I do appreciate the music. Props to your music guy whoever it is. Quality stuff Tanner! And yes... excited for you on this new journey. Immensely... I've always loved the sound of doritos 🥰
I'm just going to get i back running and whatnot......... full race fuel setup, custom this and that, bridge port, big single slug, v-mount...... yeah, you go T$!!!!
Since you're swaping flywheels, make sure that you find an auto counter weight that matches the rotor weights letters on the gear side of your rotors. Rotors have 5 different weight marks on the gear side. "A-E". "A's are the heaviest while "E"s the lightest. That factory heavy flywheel is actually balanced to that particular engines rotor weights so changing that WILL effect the balance. A lot of newbies just put on light flywheels while not knowing the internal weights of the rotors. Since your engine is already apart, you can source the counter weight from an AUTO engine that matches your rotor letter codes. If you're gonna be spinning this engine high, make sure you find the proper counter weight to match because many aftermarket suppliers just sell the heavy counter weight without any drill holes. Edit: As far as breakin, just take it easy for about 500miles for the seals to break in. Keep the rpms below 5k. These harder aftermarket apex seals will take a long time to bed in vs factory.
This sounds like quality advise. You can make your power with the Bob Wagner and keep the balancer and flywheel stock. You are going to want some engine weight while leaving from a dead stop. Looks good !!!
I ordered the ACT one that comes with the counter weight, I'll which it and compare it against the rotor lettering and see which one matches of if I can use the provider weight 🫡
@Aaron Wood Yep! I like the stock flywheel myself as it's much better for a street car. If this was a track car, then I can see going with the lightend flywheel.
Yes you should break it in, give it about 4-500 easy miles lighter load and a few oil changes to clean it out. Then compression test and get tuned for power. Compression test again after
10:01 I did paint cars for about 7 of my 12 years of body work days, that’s been quite a few years ago I will say. The thing about metallic silver cars is the fact that they almost never match surrounding panels when you paint any new panels. You don’t want it to looks tiger striped or a bad color match on the new pieces, advice from a guy who got out the body shop game in the 2010’s is to do a beautiful wrap on the whole car. You have had great luck with all the wrap jobs you have done and had done.
I've debated wrapping it bit with this one i wanna go all out and actually repaint it to the factory color again. A wrap may be the move for the short term then repaint it later on 👀
I remember falling in love with the FD on the 1st Need for Speed on 3D0 game system titled "Road and Tracks Need for Speed" which at the time was nearly $1000 gaming system. It was the 1st "sim" of its time and nothing could touch it. Of course I was a broke ass back then and could barely afford a pack of bubble gum. There are a few cars I would like to grab now 82'-87' VW Rabbit/Scirocco 94' FD 87' Ford Merkur XR4Ti 68'-73'' Opel GT ...today was rebabged/remade as the Saturn Sky and Pontiac Solstice
Full time professional painter here. I'd be prepared to expect to repaint the entire car. Definitely the flat surfaces like the hood, roof, and decklid. You can really only get away with just re clearing if the clear coat is NOT damaged in any way. All Japanese cars are notorious for very thin factory paint, so once it starts to fail and break down there really isn't hardly anything left to work with
You have got to love doing this. Hopefully you continue to grow, and get your own shop someday soon. Digging that Westcoast G-funk beat while doing the front A arms. 👌 PNW style baby. When it rains we shine! Cheers!
The RX7 I've been throughly enjoying 🔥 its nice to mix things up and it's one for me vs being a content car. One day at a time we will keep growing 🔥 no hurry over here
You did check the tank for cleanliness beforehand right? Hope so. Seems like an honest 1/3 of rebuilds go sideways nowadays with crud in the tank. Unfortunately I have firsthand experience dropping RX-7 FD tanks, and it not "bad" but it's not "fast."
@@Smeedia 1 more note: some tanks had a coating internally that does not seem to jive with E85. I don't think the RX7 FD was one, but it's been a couple older cars that ran race E and it turned the fuel black. Ever since then I trust no used tank 😅
Wiring Specialties is very local to me, and they make amazing products. Can't blame you if you don't want an aftermarket one, but theirs is some of the best on the market. Whenever you get to the transmission, look into a C's shifter kit. An old obscure Japanese company, but if you can source one they're apparently some of the best out there. Aside, finally going to Wicked Big Meet this weekend. And it'll be on my birthday too. You guys have to attend one in the next couple years, I know it's literally directly across the country but I'm sure you'll get big enough in due time for something like that to be feasible.
@@Smeedia I don't know if it's UA-cam being a bitch or what, but this is the third time I'm having to write this comment. In due time, you'll reach a point where it'll go from garage videos to travelling across the country for shit. Unless you don't want to do that. But either way the channel seems like it's on track for that with the momentum it's got right now, so don't let off. As far as the C's shifters go, probably going to have to use yahoo auctions japan. You can use a broker like Jesse Streeter to buy for you since YJP requires a registered address there to be a user.
Just remember, before driving let it idle to temp. Always always premix gas no matter if you use the oil injection pump or not. At least hit the redline once a drive.
@@Smeedia excited to see it finished man. I miss my FC I had. Now I have the vr4 and a 1g GSX. Hopefully I can start doing videos on them in the future.
If I remember right, previous owner was ls swapping? If so, the silver cylinder was a Corvette style fuel pressure regulator. I’ve got one on my ls swapped 68 C10. I’ve got the turn line blocked off at the fuel rail 4:28
Should'n the fuel line be hidden and protected? Its right under the car ready to hit something. Its not exposed like that on a stock car. Too much work to route it hidden?
That's how Radium has you route the line. It is secured up under the OEM Trim. After looking at it, it's prob the best route for it. Other option is over the control arm but that moves so not the best spot
Whats going on… much respect to the content really educational and informative… part of the reason I joined the Subie family… ? I’m tryn my first timing belt change with ur video in the background of course… but during my frustration.. I turned the lower right exhaust cam socket(driver side) by hand tryn to line up timing marks… which I now learned was supposed to be clockwise did I mess up big time😫 how do I fix.. everything else was lined up… this was wit no belt(2016 sti limited)… thanks keep the content coming
Nothing to worry about 🙏 just re align the gear and install the belt 🫡 the drivers side cam gears are always sprung when lined up so they can be a PIA at times. The company 23 tool helps a ton!
Man thnx.. so much 🙏🏿…. I’ve been 😓all day wondering if I done bent valves or pistons… especially once I found out I was supposed to go counter clockwise tryn to do research but some were yeah I 🤬up and some sayn naw… so I figured Id try to reach to the person I subscribe to when it comes to this Subie thng.. I really appreciate ur videos and the fact you not just throw stuff out there cause they send you stuff or whatever… thnkx again 👊🏿
Also super hyped for this FD build, as I have said before you learn the hard way and help everyone else. It’s kind of a service soooo everyone should sub to your channel.
2:07 is that srt4 work gonna be done on Matt’s channel? Just saying lots of new build for both channels, if there is a way to drop a link for his channel can you plzzz drop a link. I was subbed with the notifications on and I haven’t been able to find any videos, and if there is some srt 4 action I wanna make sure I don’t miss
Freaking loving this build. I’m curious to see what your paint guy will tell you about re-clearing. I’ve wondered about that on a car I had long ago. Let us know! Thanks for another good vid man.
I've not built or owned an RX7... but I would think it would need to seat in like other engines. I thought that would be common practice across the board
With spam callers I just wait for them to either say wrong thing then remind them I actually work in the APS in aus gov system (not even a lie), so they are trying to scam a gov official and didn't even hide their number so enjoy it being blocked by service provider (totally a lie as service providers don't care they getting paid from any call). Then they normally never call again haha
Are you still keeping it silver? Or painting a different color? Maybe a wrap? Some livery?? What's your endgame looks-wise? Maybe you mentioned it in a previous episode and I missed it
"just going to be a fun daily with not a lot of power" lmao
😅😅😅
“Just going to be a street car nothing crazy not a lot of power”
We gon'see
“Mom.... why do we need so much fuel supply headroom?” 😢
The story of every project car 😂😂
Great progress Tanner. Radium recommends 10 awg power and ground wires to the hangers. 14 awg might not cut it. I’m excited for the finish of the engine and to see it in.
If 14 is not cutting it we can bump up to 10, I've got some spare sitting around 🔥🫡
From what I've read, break in for rotary is super important. I've seen as high as 1,000-2,000 miles before going for max power / final tune. They build compression over a long time and once you go for those big power numbers, whatever compression the engine has it won't rise anymore afterwards.
Going to do some more digging into it, before anything but good to know. I know 13Bs can be picky pickey engines
I was listening your video on my high end stereo and I have to say I really appreciate the quality of the music, very nice!
Yes.
I mostly listen on headphones. And I've been writing hip-hop beats since the mid 90s (yeah I'm old), so I do appreciate the music. Props to your music guy whoever it is. Quality stuff Tanner!
And yes... excited for you on this new journey. Immensely... I've always loved the sound of doritos 🥰
@@bryanwarren2578 agreed
I'm just going to get i back running and whatnot......... full race fuel setup, custom this and that, bridge port, big single slug, v-mount...... yeah, you go T$!!!!
Since you're swaping flywheels, make sure that you find an auto counter weight that matches the rotor weights letters on the gear side of your rotors. Rotors have 5 different weight marks on the gear side. "A-E". "A's are the heaviest while "E"s the lightest. That factory heavy flywheel is actually balanced to that particular engines rotor weights so changing that WILL effect the balance. A lot of newbies just put on light flywheels while not knowing the internal weights of the rotors. Since your engine is already apart, you can source the counter weight from an AUTO engine that matches your rotor letter codes. If you're gonna be spinning this engine high, make sure you find the proper counter weight to match because many aftermarket suppliers just sell the heavy counter weight without any drill holes.
Edit: As far as breakin, just take it easy for about 500miles for the seals to break in. Keep the rpms below 5k. These harder aftermarket apex seals will take a long time to bed in vs factory.
This sounds like quality advise. You can make your power with the Bob Wagner and keep the balancer and flywheel stock. You are going to want some engine weight while leaving from a dead stop. Looks good !!!
I ordered the ACT one that comes with the counter weight, I'll which it and compare it against the rotor lettering and see which one matches of if I can use the provider weight 🫡
@Aaron Wood Yep! I like the stock flywheel myself as it's much better for a street car. If this was a track car, then I can see going with the lightend flywheel.
@RotaryPerfection should I stick with the OEM Flywheel? Listening to what ya'll suggest 🫡
@Smeedia Yes! Rotarys don't have any off the line torque so the added mass will help with drivability.
Yes you should break it in, give it about 4-500 easy miles lighter load and a few oil changes to clean it out. Then compression test and get tuned for power. Compression test again after
So excited to see this thing wake up. Also you can't carbon wrap a rare wing like that! It'll make it look cheap G unit!
That’s a good question. I never would have questioned if the break in process was different with rotary engines
Learning curves 😅 I guess it is very crucial on these for engine break in as the build more compression through break in
Hola amigo, tengo un impreza del 2007 160cv quiero poner manómetro de presión de aceite,donde colocarias el sensor gracias 👍👍
10:01 I did paint cars for about 7 of my 12 years of body work days, that’s been quite a few years ago I will say. The thing about metallic silver cars is the fact that they almost never match surrounding panels when you paint any new panels. You don’t want it to looks tiger striped or a bad color match on the new pieces, advice from a guy who got out the body shop game in the 2010’s is to do a beautiful wrap on the whole car. You have had great luck with all the wrap jobs you have done and had done.
I've debated wrapping it bit with this one i wanna go all out and actually repaint it to the factory color again. A wrap may be the move for the short term then repaint it later on 👀
Wingless is so much cleaner on these cars in my opinion. This is coming from a person who loves the sti, srt4, and old Eclipse wings.
I remember falling in love with the FD on the 1st Need for Speed on 3D0 game system titled "Road and Tracks Need for Speed" which at the time was nearly $1000 gaming system. It was the 1st "sim" of its time and nothing could touch it.
Of course I was a broke ass back then and could barely afford a pack of bubble gum. There are a few cars I would like to grab now
82'-87' VW Rabbit/Scirocco
94' FD
87' Ford Merkur XR4Ti
68'-73'' Opel GT ...today was rebabged/remade as the Saturn Sky and Pontiac Solstice
That scirocco is one that would be 🫴 funny enough Mel wants one too 😅
Full time professional painter here. I'd be prepared to expect to repaint the entire car. Definitely the flat surfaces like the hood, roof, and decklid. You can really only get away with just re clearing if the clear coat is NOT damaged in any way. All Japanese cars are notorious for very thin factory paint, so once it starts to fail and break down there really isn't hardly anything left to work with
Looks like a full respray will happen then 😅 might wrap it for the short term to set aside some funds for a proper paint job
Fix the rotary and wait for the LS 4 cylinder by blueprint engines to release and then swap it
You have got to love doing this.
Hopefully you continue to grow, and get your own shop someday soon.
Digging that Westcoast G-funk beat while doing the front A arms. 👌 PNW style baby.
When it rains we shine! Cheers!
The RX7 I've been throughly enjoying 🔥 its nice to mix things up and it's one for me vs being a content car. One day at a time we will keep growing 🔥 no hurry over here
Cool to see rotary work
You did check the tank for cleanliness beforehand right? Hope so. Seems like an honest 1/3 of rebuilds go sideways nowadays with crud in the tank. Unfortunately I have firsthand experience dropping RX-7 FD tanks, and it not "bad" but it's not "fast."
Yes I did 🫡 pretty clean and wiped it out also 🔥
@@Smeedia Good stuff. I just had to rebuild some mechanical injectors for a detroit diesal than ran sand and mud thru em.
@@Smeedia 1 more note: some tanks had a coating internally that does not seem to jive with E85. I don't think the RX7 FD was one, but it's been a couple older cars that ran race E and it turned the fuel black. Ever since then I trust no used tank 😅
Wiring Specialties is very local to me, and they make amazing products. Can't blame you if you don't want an aftermarket one, but theirs is some of the best on the market.
Whenever you get to the transmission, look into a C's shifter kit. An old obscure Japanese company, but if you can source one they're apparently some of the best out there.
Aside, finally going to Wicked Big Meet this weekend. And it'll be on my birthday too. You guys have to attend one in the next couple years, I know it's literally directly across the country but I'm sure you'll get big enough in due time for something like that to be feasible.
Definitely will check em out! Was looking into shifters recently so perfect timing 🫡 ..I'd love to go but it's just so far..😅
@@Smeedia I don't know if it's UA-cam being a bitch or what, but this is the third time I'm having to write this comment.
In due time, you'll reach a point where it'll go from garage videos to travelling across the country for shit. Unless you don't want to do that. But either way the channel seems like it's on track for that with the momentum it's got right now, so don't let off.
As far as the C's shifters go, probably going to have to use yahoo auctions japan. You can use a broker like Jesse Streeter to buy for you since YJP requires a registered address there to be a user.
Massive progress!!!! Thanx Tanner! 💥💥💥
🥳🥳🥳🥳
Just remember, before driving let it idle to temp. Always always premix gas no matter if you use the oil injection pump or not. At least hit the redline once a drive.
Easy enough 🫡 just ordered the Haltech and Rywire harness for it. Last big thing needed now is the greddy V mount 🔥
@@Smeedia excited to see it finished man. I miss my FC I had. Now I have the vr4 and a 1g GSX. Hopefully I can start doing videos on them in the future.
hell yeah man, fd is a dream car of mine. recently sold my STI and got a mustang. so easy to make big power with boost.
Ohhhhh congratulations!!!! S550?!
If I remember right, previous owner was ls swapping? If so, the silver cylinder was a Corvette style fuel pressure regulator. I’ve got one on my ls swapped 68 C10. I’ve got the turn line blocked off at the fuel rail 4:28
Interesting, he was LS swapping it. I've never seen that before 😅
I fuxking love these videos , it never gets old 💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽 keep going
Beautifully progress good sir
🫡🫡🫡
@Tanner
You gonna keep this ride or sell it when your done?
Want to keep it, but money talks. 😅 if someone came up with $55K I'd sell it 😅
@@Smeedia lol, I hear that my dude!!
The clutch master cylinder went out on my '16 WRX, cost me $700 for install on a $75 part. Ouch!
Should'n the fuel line be hidden and protected? Its right under the car ready to hit something.
Its not exposed like that on a stock car. Too much work to route it hidden?
That's how Radium has you route the line. It is secured up under the OEM Trim. After looking at it, it's prob the best route for it. Other option is over the control arm but that moves so not the best spot
Can't wait for the fun rotary noises!
Same 😍😍😍
hey smeedia just a heads up rx7 diffs are glass to put it nicely i think it would be wise to invest in a ford 9 in
I've seen a few explode 😅 I'll start planning for a better diff 🔥
You could put an sti awd drive line would fix the weak diff of the rx7 and you would have a monster awd rotary
Curious who could make an adaptor plate for that 🫣
@@Smeedia anything is possible but it needs time and effort would be a cool build tho
Whats going on… much respect to the content really educational and informative… part of the reason I joined the Subie family… ? I’m tryn my first timing belt change with ur video in the background of course… but during my frustration.. I turned the lower right exhaust cam socket(driver side) by hand tryn to line up timing marks… which I now learned was supposed to be clockwise did I mess up big time😫 how do I fix.. everything else was lined up… this was wit no belt(2016 sti limited)… thanks keep the content coming
Nothing to worry about 🙏 just re align the gear and install the belt 🫡 the drivers side cam gears are always sprung when lined up so they can be a PIA at times. The company 23 tool helps a ton!
Man thnx.. so much 🙏🏿…. I’ve been 😓all day wondering if I done bent valves or pistons… especially once I found out I was supposed to go counter clockwise tryn to do research but some were yeah I 🤬up and some sayn naw… so I figured Id try to reach to the person I subscribe to when it comes to this Subie thng.. I really appreciate ur videos and the fact you not just throw stuff out there cause they send you stuff or whatever… thnkx again 👊🏿
She's coming along nice!
One day at a time 🫣🔥
Hey tanner I was wondering what torque wrench I should buy and what is that orange torque wrench you use
Mine is a gear wrench, it's not bad. What's your budget for one? 👀
Wonder what the wing would look like with the center blade wrapped in flo green. Would go with the generation of the car
That is a BRIGHT GREEN
lets gooooooo, cant wait to see this running
Sameeee things gling to be a blast!
You should watch jimmy Oakes rx7 fc build he just did i feel it could help with some of the questions you have !
Big fuel for big boost!
We want all the boost!!!!
Where did you get your gasket kit?
What braided ptfe line are you using now?
That was provided by Radium but I'm still using the Vibrant line 🫡
It looks like a standard 300hp fuel system to me 😢, nice fd btw ❤
Hey….do i peep an srt4 in the garage 😏 you holding out?
Issa all cleaned up 👀 think Matt might be starting on it soon
BRAAP BRAAP BRAAP BRAAP BRAAP BRAAP BRAAP BRAAP BRAAP. WOOOOOO
🫣🥳🔥
I live down in Oregon and I own 541 Hydrographics, I can hydrodip that wing blade in carbon fiber if you like
🤐 Im just gonna shut up and see Tanner's handy work👍🏼👍🏼
😩😩😩😩
We all know when he says it's going to be a fun little streetcar it's going to go downhill he's going to add more more power
Rotary Powahh, this girl won't be thirsty for fuel but maybe with Oil issues unless you work your Magic 😏😎
Trying to set this thing up for some SAUCE 😩😅
Also super hyped for this FD build, as I have said before you learn the hard way and help everyone else. It’s kind of a service soooo everyone should sub to your channel.
The hard ways not always fun so I'll find out what dosent work 😅
2:07 is that srt4 work gonna be done on Matt’s channel? Just saying lots of new build for both channels, if there is a way to drop a link for his channel can you plzzz drop a link. I was subbed with the notifications on and I haven’t been able to find any videos, and if there is some srt 4 action I wanna make sure I don’t miss
It will be on his channel I belive? His YT is Matlas DI he hasent upload in a hot min though 😅
Freaking loving this build. I’m curious to see what your paint guy will tell you about re-clearing. I’ve wondered about that on a car I had long ago. Let us know! Thanks for another good vid man.
I guess it's a no go 😅 looks like we are repainting it 😅
@@Smeedia awww snap. Too bad.
Yes the apex seals need to break in.
Good to know 😅🔥
@@Smeedia yeah they have to seat to the rotor housings. Once they seal better you’ll see better compression numbers and the idle will clean up a lot.
I've not built or owned an RX7... but I would think it would need to seat in like other engines. I thought that would be common practice across the board
I’ve been a sprayer for 12 years. You can totally just do clear coat.
Oh Perfect! Going that route then 🥳
Another good episode 😄 slowly coming together! 😎🔥
@Zac Baldy did a haltech swap in both of his FD's. Guy in Brisbane Australia helped him do it!
Doing an elite for the FD, absolutely live the haltechs 🔥
As soon as I saw the hammer about to hit that bolt I knew, its not gunna clear 😅
Lmao I was hoping it would 😂
Peep the neon in the garage!!! hehe I’m interested in what that beauty is gonna go through 🤭
That neon needs to come back to life 🫴🔥
Ordered me a t. Fingers crossed. Lol phat chance
🔥🥳🫣
To the moon↗️
MOOOOOON 🚀
Heck yeah time for Doritos!
Getting closer everyday video 🔥🥳
Sweet thumbnail looks sik af! Awesome video as usaul, thanks dude
Hurts my soul that you drilled into that hatch.
At least it was for a genuine wing 😅
BADASS!!!!!!
😎👍🏻👍🏻
If this is supposed to be a daily, why did you install 3 fuel pumps and a surge tank? Seems like a waste of money
This one is not a daily driver , more of a weekend car/nice day car
Got here early for once! LETS GO!!! 🤘🏾🤘🏾
🥳🥳🥳🥳
Fathers maiden name, lolz
Yes sir
🔥🔥🔥🔥
With spam callers I just wait for them to either say wrong thing then remind them I actually work in the APS in aus gov system (not even a lie), so they are trying to scam a gov official and didn't even hide their number so enjoy it being blocked by service provider (totally a lie as service providers don't care they getting paid from any call). Then they normally never call again haha
Ima try this, someone sold my number to some viagra company 😂😂😂 gets old quick lol
Pleaseee pop out that dent behind the passenger door! It hurts me every time I see it 🫣
It will go to dent removal before paint 🫡🔥
Are you still keeping it silver? Or painting a different color?
Maybe a wrap? Some livery??
What's your endgame looks-wise? Maybe you mentioned it in a previous episode and I missed it
7;08 ull thank me
😂😂😂😂
Let me get your hoodie ina size shmeedium
💪🥳
🥳🥳🥳🥳
Your carrier provider is selling your phone number
That wouldent surprise me 😂