01 GSXR 600/750/1000 STVA BUTTERFLY DELETE HOW TO (SECONDARY BUTTERFLY REMOVAL)
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- Опубліковано 24 лис 2015
- Removing the secondary butterflies to see if any gains come from it. There was a noticeable difference on top end for power gains but also noticed power loss on bottom end
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I did this to my bike after watching your video , and i went for a ride , the bike want to eat the road thank you man my bike now will beat donky haybusa’s again thank a lot
I just did this today on my k3 gixxer 750 ...deff works I didn't feel any loss at low rpm and it fixed my stuck butterfly problem at higher rpms also it didn't throw any fi codes and everything works fine it still idles and everything fine.thanks for the videos man
That's good to hear. No problem
This what I needed to see thanks fellas!
I removed the STVA Butterflies on my GSX-S750. I use a micro torch to heat the screws before removing them.. made it much easier. I did notice a slight bog during the lower RPMs( I'm talking 1/2 a second or less) but kicks ass in the HIGH RPMs. also there in no longer a REV limiter.
Nice video! I have a K1 as well but need to get rear inner fender battery tray replacement for gsxr k1, you know if 1000 and 600 share same rear battery tray? Do you know any good online shop I could look it up from? I tried ebay but only found the newer models.
Yea. There's no cel or anything. You do lose a bit of bottom end but mid and top end make up for it. If you have your bike tuned then you can add more fuel on the low end and you won't notice any power lose.
I had all the same problems its the air pressure sensor on the air box.unhooked it and Red lined...to keep the configuration after you get all your power back unhook the Computer so it will remember the settings ...spray carb cleaner in the sensor and hook it back up..after air dry.and back to 100mph in 2nd gear!Happy riding...it took me a month to figur this after tearing it down 10 times and replacing,pumps and plugs...
You need to do a how to video
I'm going to try that thanks
I know this a long shot but do you still have the GSXR butterfly’s and screws?
I didn't get one. I left the actuator there and left all the wiring hooked up.
eBay has one for a k1 Gsxr 600 for $14.38 + $11.50 shipping. If you type in Gsxr 600 battery tray it's the 10th one down. I do know that the Gsxr 600 and 1000 battery's are different but I'm not sure about the trays.
Que pasaría si se desconecta por completo el servomotor junto con las mariposas secundarias?
Thanks.
hi excuse me a question I have my K2 with a jerk problem when I go slowly I already checked the svt and I plan to eliminate it the second butterfly but you have some mapping so that it works in low I have the power comander V and yoshimura system with headers but when doing this would have to do some modification in the commander's map ... and I have my TPS sensor in * C00 since it is -C00 it does not stay fixed when I start the engine it goes directly to * C00 it never stays -C00. I hope you can help since I can't run my bike because it doesn't revolutionize it well.
You do not have to remap to delete the butterflies. Another thing you might check is your current map. It could be running to rich and that would cause the jerking. Also make sure your battery connections are tight.
hey, just got an 2001 gsxr 1000, does this mod bypass the stva? I'm having a bogging issue. I've checked fuel pump and filter, injectors, and air filter. I've noticed when my vacuum line is hooked up to the sensor on the left of the air box, map sensor I think, it run worst, so I keep it off for the time being, but the stva is my next step to check, so I was wondering if it is bad will it matter if I do this mod? anything you think will help, thx
Your svta will still be hocked up and still will move when you turn the key on. This mod is so that you have a constant flow with no restrictions from the secondary butterflies. You might try it cause of for some reason the butterflies aren't opening then it'll choke the bike out.
Dude i got the same problem did you ever figure it out. Lmkk
Your video is very helpful. I have an k1 600 that has a clicking STVA. The butterflies don't fully open or close and just constantly click and vibrate back and forth. Would you recommend just deleting them or buying a new unit to fix? Because I've read those motors in the K1 stvas cant be serviced. Thanks man.
Peter Ferguson there is a how to on here. I can't remember if I did a video on it or not but it shows you step by step how to fix it. I just really depends on if you don't mind losing a bit of bottom end or not.
DRK KNT RACING by losing a bit of bottom end will it be noticeable or just subtle? Thanks bro.
Peter Ferguson its a bit noticeable but you will really notice a pickup on the top end. I've have some people message me telling me that they hate it, others love it.
Currently right now I run with them deleted, and with 4 short velocity stacks and us plenty of power.
DRK KNT RACING Ill give it a go and let you know how I like it. Thanks for replying man.
i live in puerto rico and down here they remove the secondary throtle too for my understanding secondary throtle is unessesary i only good for quick bike start up and fuel eficiensy
XClockwork900X yea pretty much. It hurts performance that's for sure.
I know that this is late, but, the STVA is there to keep air velocity constant. It acts like the CV carbs, so the power delivery is smooth without bogs or sudden bursts of power.
When you remove the butterflies, you lose some velocity at lower RPM, so the bike will lose power there and may actually run a bit lean due to lower air velocity and poorer volumetric efficiency. At high RPM, velocities are high enough that the STVA isn't necessary other than for slowing the sudden flow change when you crack the throttle and acting somewhat like an accelerator pump on an old car carb.
Removing the valve shaft will increase top-end flow even more by lowering the restriction in the throttle body, but will lower low and mid-range power and throttle response.
Recurving the fuel map should help alleviate those issues and match the fuel to airflow better, as well as the amount of fuel added when the throttle is snapped open, so the reaction of the engine is smoother.
Any time you change anything to do with airflow, even just removing the STVA, adding a better air filter, eliminating the airbox, a different header or free flowing exhaust, the fuel map needs to be changed to match to get the most benefit from the mod.
What did you do about the f1 code when you took the stva off your bike ?
I never had a FI light when deleting the stva butterflies, but when I went grudge and deleted the shaft I took a piece of the rod and stuck it into the stva actuator so it thought it was still working. The only way to completely get rid of the stva actuator is go stand alone with mega squirt or holly.
I touched these by accident and now have an f1 light. Can’t go past 10k in 5th & 6th, bike starts jerking, top end of of lower gears is sketchy too
Where did you buy the small exhaust?
popitn2nd it was on the bike when I bought it.
You seem like you know a lot about the bike sooo i wanna ask i been having an issue with mine it wont rev past 6k rpm runs rough so horrible after that rpm the bike act like it will die on me all power lost it might surprise you all the things I've done without fixing it
Fuel pump, cam sensor, new plugs & spark, clean injectors, and nothing could the tps be bad or what could be wrong? Timing is right compression is also right
I was gonna say tps sensor is either bad or out of adjustment. I would check adjustment first and if your not sure how to do that just put it into dealer mode and then look at your gauge cluster to where the f1 codes would be and there will be a line right next to a code or 00. You want to make sure that the line looks like this -00 not like this _00 or the opposite.
it's the stva it's closed all the time so it's choking the bike when it's closed it doesn't get enough air I have this same problem I'm replacing mine on my 07 gsxr 600
1sik Gsxr Working on the same issue as I type.
My bike threw a c28 & c29 FI code. Just gonna open the butterfly's & run it as is until I get the STVA sorted.
@@mrsalih4704how do you open the butterfly’s
What's up bro, I have a 2002 GSXR 750. Did a bunch of work on the bike but its bogging when I hit the throttle after it idles. If I ease on the throttle it's fine but bogs at first if I hit half throttle quick. Any ideas on what it may be and can you throw a video together on the subject? Thanks and Ride safe!
Did you figure it out? Mines doing the same but I have no codes at Al
No I haven't brother
Try retuneing the bike.
What u mean tune like fuel sparkplug oil change
@@robbecker7124 take it to a dyno and see if its running to lean.
Without adding fuel doing this will make the bike run lean and nirtrous prob going to blow up
I just bought a 2006 gsxr 600 and I could hear the stva clicking when I turned off kill switch. After taking it apart I see someone removed the secondary butterflies but the stva is still clicking constantly before starting unless I wiggle the wires to it. Code c28 popping up. Looking for any information at all about if I can ride like this or if I still need to get that stva to stop clicking even though the butterflies are already gone. Thank you!
Gonna have to fix the STV actuator servo. Theres videos on how to resolder the connections. Im actually planning on doing it this weekend.
@@mightyORFENhow did it go? Have a clicking k1 600 and thinking about doing the delete but would prefer to keep the stva if it doesnt cost me too much. Track bike only
Hi thank you for your video, i'm from italy, i've a gsx-r 600 k1 2001 with error c29, when you go beyond 10.000 the bike is not responding well like it doesn't have enough petrol or air: i've tried to remove the butterfly as you suggested but the problem is persisting. i've checked and cleaned the air filter, checked the sparks, changed the ecu valve regulator, then i've even changed the filter of the petrol pump and cleaned the thank (it's reasonable dirty so it was something to do anyway). After that the bike sounds and revs up better but the problem beyond 10.000 still persisting. What could it be? Thanks in advance
Hola . Sucionaste tu problema?
Porque tu moto no subía de 10k rpm ??
Tengo el mismo problema
I had a similar issue, turned out to be a faulty petrol pump, so I removed it and fitted an upgraded pump, also cleaned out the black box filter attached to the pump as well. Worked wonders for my bike, hope this helps
So I recently took off my 2nd dairy throttle from exshost the set valve do I need to take off those flaps on the carbs or injectors I cut the black wire once it starts light goes off but it still runs like shit can anybody help me
If you disconnected the set valve and took out the secondary plates you need to get the bike retuned.
Do you have a link to those grips? K3 1ooo here
No I don't sorry
Will this cause any damage to the motor?
No only if you drop the bolts into it
Will this help with a code c28 and make my bike run efficiently again?
All it will do is make the bike run normal if the butterflies are stuck closed
I got a c28 last week. Did you fix yours??
Did you ever figure out the c28 issue? My bike is doing it now 06 Gsxr 600
@@walteradams72 Fixed it yet? Same problem here in my 06 600
@@dystem4036 any luck bro im having that issue on a bike i just bought
I have a 01 gsxr 1000 I’m planning to do this to my bike so I can gain mid range and top end. Would the bike need to be flashed or would have to be retune when I remove butterfly’s? And is it safe to do it? Sometimes I ride hard sometimes and would definitely like to gain more top end.. lmk how it went when you did it on your Gsxr 1000 I seen your comments and saw that you said you did on a gsxr 1000 how did it feel? Any gains??
No tune is needed. On my 06 1000. Im not sure. I did the swap and everything at once .
Okay Thanks Im planning to do it tomorrow. Something up with my gixxer only wants to hit 160 and I will see if this help me gain top end.
Is there anything I will need to adjust after deleting the butterfly’s?
@@josepaco5099 no just pull the flies and you are good to go.
All 4 right?
Where buy your windshield?
Ebay
Brother man does this same method work for a 05 600?
Yes
@@DRKKNTRACING thanks brother
I have an 01 gsxr750 and thinking of doing this. Will my bike still be able to wheelie? Will it still run ok at low rpm's?
no, there is no reason to do this unless your STVA system is going bad. it's a common problem for these to start fucking up over a long period of time, either the actuator goes bad or it becomes uncalibrated. if yours is working fine, there is no reason to mess with it. it's literally a function of your throttle...if you're WOT it makes no difference
How do you know your stva is wrong
not true. You can see itdoesnt fully open. Removing it will get more air flow and the ecu will giveit more fuel. There are people who have proven it.
So this will fix my bogging on high end speed i can only go 105
If your butterflies are closing early than yes
Yes
Did you manage to fix ur problem, my 750cc 2006 gsxr displayed code c29 and limits revs to 6k
Why would you destroy the bike like this
Dumb comment
why delete it?
Less air restriction. On my grudge bike I deleted the bar too
@@DRKKNTRACING I races a 02 gsxr 1000 I seen people do that mod and went slower . What kinda t8mes u running with that bike I was a 170lbs rider
9.45 for a season, did some weight reductions got to 9.31. Ran 8's with a 70 shot
I cannot see how this mod does anything positive. All valves will be wide open at full throttle anyway so would make no difference imo
will run like complete shit unless you're WOT
Lies
@@ilovemyevo556that's how it was for me
I bet that bike is choppy as shit now
WrongWayz I've had them deleted in this 600 motor and my 750 swap and not one problem
I see a few haters lol
You’re not gaining anything by doing this mod. You are actually negatively impacting top end power, which has been proven by Dyno runs.
Damn I've got time slips that say otherwise
@@DRKKNTRACING There are so many variables that can influence your ET, and the difference that this mod might make would be so negligible that there is no way you would be able to tell by looking at a timing slip, or feeling it at the seat of your pants. About the only thing removing the STV will do is have a minor negative impact on drivability. If you still want to disagree with me I challenge you to do Dyno runs with, and without a fully operational properly functioning STV. I think you will be very surprised at what you find.
Lies.
You're gaining reliabilty. Ifitgets stuck closed it can keep uour bike from starting. If its gone that cant happen. Literally one less thing that can go wrong. Its also a free repair. It would suck when you'd want to go riding and can't..or need to go..holding up your buddies or trying to get home beforeotgets cold..etv etc
@@ilovemyevo556 Lies? Prove me wrong then. Gaining reliability?! LOL! Wrong! By removing the STV, you are diminishing streetable performance, thereby reducing reliability. If you properly take care of and maintain your bike, It is highly unlikely that your STV will ever malfunction. Even if you don't take care of your bike, your STV will probably continue to operate flawlessly. There will be MANY other things that will go wrong with your bike before your STV gives you trouble. I've been riding motorcycles for over 40 years with 10's of 1000's of miles under my ass, and I have NEVER had an issue with a STV. You obviously do not understand the purpose of a STV or how they work. You haven't a clue. Stop believing unfounded nonsense.