Hope it works well for you. I've done one like that, (lots of concrete), but now I don't. I use clay, to make a big trough, (larger is good) I make a dam at the bottom end of the trough. Put a 3" perforated pipe in the bottom of the trough. I sift Bentonite on all the clay in the trough and dam . Then washed rocks, like 1 1/2 yards of that, over the pipe. Then 3 layers or more over the rocks, then heavy fencing wire above that, then another foot of soil above that the wire keeps animals from digging into it. The plastic and soil covers it all. As to silt. If you have to drain the catch often you didn't keep the pipe at a decent incline. I let the outflow line go downhill at a steep rate and let the line belly below the tanks, then put a valve down there that can be opened to let the majority of the silt pour out. All that silt should go down the pipe. let that water pour into, from the bottom, into a 300 gal tank. Overflow goes into another 300 gal tank. These are settling tanks. I get 2" or more in the bottom of the first tank, 1/4" in the second tank and then virtually no sediment in the third big tank that I pump from. I've done this for 20 years. NO problems. do NOT use filters to try to get it out. just not worth it. Let is settle!
I once had a cat scan patient whose legs were very badly burned. He had 3rd degree burn scars from doing DIY concrete and he saturated his jeans with it. His neighbor spotted him and had him shower immediately but he still had to have many surgeries. I've never taken the caustic nature of concrete lightly since.
USS Navasota AO-106 Thank YOu for this info. all this time and never heard of that ,I Praise Father GOD ,He has Protected Me .I went and looked it up JESUS IS LORD
I’ve worked with concrete off and on over the last 2 years and have soaked myself and had it dry on me(bagged concrete and from a truck from facility). Not once have I been burned, I even worked at a plant where all we did all day was pour concrete into forms, so I’ve had lots of exposure. I’ve been told once buy some old fart “your gonna hate life when that shit burns you” as I’m using my hand as a scoop and too smooth it. Idk maybe my skin is built different but not once have I been burned or even my skin irritated by it. 🤔 Edit: from my research it’s lime or chromium that causes the burn, and from what the internet says i should have been burnt to a crisp by now😂even got that shit in my eyes and was just fine.
I am currently tapping a spring on my land in the mountains of NY I have watched your video 20 times over the past few years and now I'm about to do it. I'm confused. But I will do my best. Wish me luck
Love this video! Im planning to get livestock so im going to attempt to tap into another spring that is on my property and this video helped me figure out how to do it. I recently bought a house that uses a spring to supply it with water. My spring box looks similar to the one you built and it flows down an underground pipe for about 250 yards and fills a partially buried 500 gallon tank that is near my house. There is a well pump at the bottom of the tank that pumps it into the house. My tank also has an overflow which runs underground to a creek so the water is constantly flowing.
@@downstateradv Hello, Im going to be putting in the exact same system in my spring. I've subscribed and I plan on asking questions in the future thanks. Here's one, does your 500 gallon in ground tank stay filled?
not sure if anyone has mentioned previously , this should be your sump & syphon form higher up,,, keep that lower tube/pipe for exactly what you said" cleaning out is very easy" . taking water from the bottom is going to help clog things up down the line ,, if you get contaminated water in the sump at that nice slow rate sediment will sink to the bottom while you are taking the cleanest water higher up.
Nice work! You could add a couple of small metal trays to the bottom of the box to collect any silt. Then you could periodically dump the silt out of the trays to clean.
In Italy I see lots of springs boxed like this, however the water is collected from the top so whatever residue sinks to the bottom. Never ever I have seen where you catch it at the bottom. The boxes are allowed to fill up and the catch sits half way or on top and the overflow a little higher. And also are always sealed so no insects can get in, or less likely.
Rothari, that is exactly what we have here. Please watch the video all the way through. I have about a 3-4 inch settling basin at the bottom and then the tap pipe allows water to leave. Above that is the overflow in case the tap gets clogged. And the entire think is sealed tightly with wood and foam tape on top.
Very nicely done. I never thought of hydraulic cement. Where do you get it from. Then do you use bentonite clay in the interior? How did you bring the pipe through the block? I have a 5gpm flowing on my property ALSO in NY. Thank you for your educational vid, it sure is helpful.
in running water the best to use is lime slurry with cement 70 to 30 % water dont goes thru, and i slow hardening , so you can form it easy. nothin else works so good
our house when I was growing up had a water supply from a spring. When we sold the house the water had to be tested and I remember it was found to be no good. I guess we were used to it though.
We just built a concrete “funnel” to catch the water and put a lid over and and then had the water run down to a spring house to collect and then we used it from there
What can you use a Y or T instead of unhooking it all time it should go to both sides amine flow but if you do it for hit both sides go through maybe not I don’t know I just thought so I have to do it all the time when you put a Val or some kind of a bonnet do you shut it off in the winter time
Hello, I just found this video and we have a property that we need to build a spring. I have so many questions but the most important is how do we know how to find the area and make a spring. Please advise Thank you
Awesome!!! I have a spring that runs all year ling, even on draughts. I just bought the property, and this spring looks nasty, the old owner did a terrible job. I mean, there are even those baby frogs that are 1 inch long and have no legs swimming on the puddle where it pours out of the ground. And is feeds a very large pound about 15 feet away. I have to dig a hole between the spring and the pound and make a dam there, and dig a deeper channel to it, but I am very scared to dig too close to the spring and kill it. Any tips?
It's a tough call and you certainly can "kill" a spring by digging near it. I'd have to see it to be of any help. Maybe find a local ol timer and see if they could come take a look and share some thoughts
We have a spring that needs to be developed. I’m definitely going to use the hydraulic cement. The undeveloped spring puts out so watch water year round that my first attempt damning it failed. I couldn’t place the clay fast enough. I think I’m going start with the cement on the side then place the dam. We have another spring that’s developed and is about 5 GPM. I made a video of it.
Did you get the water test after the cement .ION machine small one ,look for one that does water & Air it gets the iron .A little home work . UV light can help to.
This is an amazing video, I learned so much, I have a couple of questions, when does a spring become a stream? And is there county permits for collecting water involved, Thanks in advance
I’ve been studying my water it seems like it flows year round I cannot see anywhere I can tell the water is coming from besides potentially the ground and I am praying it’s a true natural ground spring not a fisher spring.. I’m scared to dig around it because I was told they can move but it seems constant seems like it comes from the ground also seems like clean water ... I’ve been praying this is a legit natural ground water spring if it is it would be the greatest blessing on this property ... any way I could ask how to truly know? It does seem to feed the creek it moves from my property down the creek not visa versa
Honestly your best bet is to just use your best judgment try to find the absolute beginning of it and start digging. but definitely be careful while you're digging and watch carefully you'll start to see the mouth quickly but you can also dig too quickly and end up smearing the mouth in if that makes sense. If it is a ground spring and on flat ground then you'll need to make what's called a spring box. If it's on a hill try to keep digging up until you find the true start of it you'll see it coming out cold and clear very quickly.
I live in the Royal Springs. Peacock Springs and Running Springs area on my farm. I have 60 headed livestock and I'm very concerned with about not having water for s*** It's the fan my husband died, so I'm all alone to do the work. Is there anyway? I can tap a Spring. My will is only 21 foot. That would take all the aggravation.And all the worry I have about water.If something happens with an AMP, thank you could help guide me. You know the words this springs all around my property
It is too bad you did not use threaded rod with a J hook at the bottom set in the wet cement then you could have drilled holes in the lid and tightened the lid down with both neoprene washers and steel washers so the lid would compress the sealing gasket and could be secured to prevent tampering. When you go back with hydraulic cement you should create a slope on top of the blocks away from the rock face so your lid slopes away from the spring this will prevent rainwater from getting into the spring box. You should secure fine stainless steel mesh/ screen over the overflow to prevent insects, bugs, mice, chipmunks, etc from crawling in. When the spring is just open flowing to the outside world and your delivery pipe is not connected you should put a plumbing trap on the end of the pipe, the trap will always be full of moving water that will again prevent animals from making a home in your spring.
Great informative video! Thank you for sharing. Question: how do you plan to line the inside with hydraulic cement with the spring flowing? Please share when you do that project. Or perhaps you have since this is a year old. I will check and subscribe. Thanks again.
Hydraulic cement will set up underwater, in fact it will setup with water flowing such as around a pipe with water leaking around it. It sets up by a chemical reaction and will expand as it sets up, it can burn you so gloves are required. It’s also very sticky and sticks to your skin and it’s hard to get off once it dries. Hydraulic cement sets very fast, within minutes once mixed with water. When you can feel it getting warm or hot you’ve got seconds to get it in place and finished.
@@Hoaxer51thank you so much for the information! I was thinking of regular cement that works for under water after it dries. Bt what you are referring to is applied directly while wet or under water. Great information!
Hey Jerry. Just based on experience. You don't want it too high since there really should be no back pressure in a system like this. It should be free flowing always.
You're mixing up your terminology in reference to groundwater. Groundwater is what's coming out of your spring. Surface water is what you don't want to infiltrate into your well box.
Primary water is a little known renewable resource that originates deep within the earth. When conditions are right, oxygen combines with hydrogen to make new water. This water is constantly being pushed up toward the surface under great pressure. The water finds its way towards the surface through fissures or faults. Depending on the geology, primary water can be accessed close to the surface, or even flow out as a spring. Primary water has never been a part of the hydrologic cycle until it finally arrives at the surface. Traditional hydrologic cycle water is finite and volumes fluctuate relative to available rain and snowmelt. Primary water is renewable and plentiful regardless of the weather.
I have an old spring on grandparents land. It fed the house I inherited and cannot find anyone who can help or advise how to clean it up as it is falling in.
why not put a ball valve on the outlet so the tank can fill up, then open the valve just enough so the outflow isn't greater than the inflow so as to keep the tank at a certain volume. This will allow you a higher velocity at the exit. just a thought
How long is your waterline and is it all downhill? Does this tank need to be full in order for water to have enough pressure to get to the other end ? Do you adjust the water flow in this pipe? Does it freeze in the winter?
Hey Eren. So the delivery line from the spring over to the 500 gallon buried tank is roughly 40 ft long. Yes it does have a very slight decline all the way to the tank. That keeps sediment from building up inside the line. The gravity provides plenty enough movement for the water. No the water is a constant flow from the earth. We bypass that delivery pipe and the holding tank during the winter and let it run down a chute to the creek. If we run the 500 gallon tank dry I'll reconnect the spring for the two or three hours it needs to fill that tank and redisconnect it.
@@downstateradv Oh thanks a lot. So im 22 and Im from Bosnia and I pretty much live in the mountains and I have a similar water supply system. I recently moved into our old house and I have a lot of problems with the system, and since Im new in this area of work and knowledge, there has been an enormous amount of "head scratching" moments for me . So ,for a long time (about 7 years) Nobody was living in the house and there has been lots of changes in the area . So basically there has been lots of earth slides or dk how do you call them correctly. So basically I have an 1000 litres collecting box made out of concrete ,about 700 meters far away from my house ,up in the mountains, and the altitude difference is about 90 meters. So the waterline is going from this huge collecting tank to the main tank ,that is about 100 meters away from the house. So the issue was that the waterline pipe,was buried about one ft underground and after the earth slides it has been broken in several places,so we had to replace about a third of waterline pipe with a new one. Now the issue is that the area is all in the woods and there is lots of new trees and long grass that werent there before ,so its little bit difficult to figure out the right way to lay the pipe on the ground ,since a little mistake creates an an air bubble in the pipe as soon as the pressure drops just a little bit and it tottaly stops the flow ,then I have do go to open the pipe and let the air out and connect it again and so on... Until now I see a little bit of progress in my work and I hope that I will figure it out.
Sounds like you're having a bit of a hydrolock situation. I would suggest installing what's called a drop pipe every 50 ft or so. Basically it's a t in line with a piece going up into the air and a hood on top to keep bugs and animals out. Essentially it allows air into the pipe and keeps it flowing. The only downside is that you are going to get a lot more of an increase flow out of it and it may really be gushing by the time it gets down to the house. Be careful with that part. But that should clear up any sort of hydrolock problem.
@@downstateradv Bro ,sorry for bothering u,but could u send me an picture example of this setup with t pieces with hood on top ,so I cpuld check if I can find it in the stores over here. Thanks in advance.
Why not chip out the old pipe location there may have been something in there that was blocking your flow. I would never have messed with the water until it leaves the rock, i.e. no hydraulic cement blocking the orifice to the spring then there is no chance of altering the spring and its flow.
Nice. Why don't you line the catchment with pond liner then fill the area with large washed pebbles? Oh, heads up you don't need minerals in your water, they are bountiful in your normal healthy diet.
Well that’s a nice way of putting it, Lol. I would get a battery operated grinder with a diamond blade and scribe and cut the blocks, you can cut rebar with it too. There’s no sense in cutting them short and then using little pieces to fill the gaps, and set them straight on top of each other with no overhang or steps in the joints. If you’re going to do it you may as well make it look good, not good enough, make it right. Sorry, as a retired mason it’s hard to take.
16:15 Just remember, we need minerals for our bodies and we need it from our vegetables, nuts etc. because theyre organic minerals, the minerals in your spring water are not utilized the way you think, they're in the inorganic form.
Mostly because we are not yet there full time and I'm still unsure if the delivery pipe that crosses high above the creek will stay flowing without some sort of heating device. I'm looking into DC internal heating devices and insulating the pipe as we speak and running the whole system off of a small solar system. I'll be at the property in two weeks and will likely run a test then to see how it fares in 0° weather. Realistically though I think that run is too long to count on the water being able to retain its heat from the ground on its own. It's almost a certainty that I will need to add external heat in order to keep that pipe from freezing. Once that system is figured out though it will likely be able to run all year long for a very long time.
@@downstateradv I would love to see a video or know if you had any success with the heating mechanism. We live up north so freezing temperatures are a guarantee. We are planning on setting up the spring water system this year but we want to find a way to keep it running all year, as we hope to live in our cabin off-grid year round.
@@downstateradv In my place we have winter of -15°C and we do not need heating system. If the pipe is wide enough (in your video it is) and spring is flowing constantly than it does not get iced. Certainly there is ice around but it runs. If you have too cold winter it is good idea to make pipe longer and put around the spring instalment more materials (dirt or whatever). 70 centimeters (27 inches) of material around assures it will not get iced at all. That is why in coldy places you will find out pipe comming out of ground... because spring development instalment was insulated by the ground. If you do it right there is NO NEED of heating even in -25°C (-13°Fahr.). To use heating system instead of ground insulation is just complicated. Something what can run for free why to make it run by instrument which will need maintance?
I cant keep the salamanders out of my spring. Its like they've lived there for millions of years and not about to let some pipe and dugout spot take there home away
The only question now is, is that concrete and masonry food safe? Will it leach unwanted chemicals into the water? I would make double sure of that before recommending this.
Everybody has to take their own risk levels and responsibility into account. All I can show is how I did it. Yes, concrete will always leach but it has also been used for a containment method for drinking water since it was invented. And realistically, besides glass, which can't be used for obvious reasons, every material we could use for this purpose is not technically food safe. The good thing is that with how I develop springs, the water barely touches the concrete blocks at all while it's flowing through.
You lose the block, and time, for such pourpose, is better if you use pure cement concrete and wooden frame, for the dam. Which should be begger that This block structure.
Erk found it but I suppose technically it is hydrophobic. I know Lowe's sells it premixed not sure about bagged that I mix. Probably in an 80lb bag I can't lift lololololol
Sorry I don't control that though it does fund future projects through revenue for creators. It's just how this platform works. You could always skip forward. It's a good video so give it another go. Take care.
Good to do thing that generations will remember you built. ❤
Hope it works well for you. I've done one like that, (lots of concrete), but now I don't. I use clay, to make a big trough, (larger is good) I make a dam at the bottom end of the trough. Put a 3" perforated pipe in the bottom of the trough. I sift Bentonite on all the clay in the trough and dam . Then washed rocks, like 1 1/2 yards of that, over the pipe. Then 3 layers or more over the rocks, then heavy fencing wire above that, then another foot of soil above that the wire keeps animals from digging into it. The plastic and soil covers it all. As to silt. If you have to drain the catch often you didn't keep the pipe at a decent incline. I let the outflow line go downhill at a steep rate and let the line belly below the tanks, then put a valve down there that can be opened to let the majority of the silt pour out. All that silt should go down the pipe. let that water pour into, from the bottom, into a 300 gal tank. Overflow goes into another 300 gal tank. These are settling tanks. I get 2" or more in the bottom of the first tank, 1/4" in the second tank and then virtually no sediment in the third big tank that I pump from. I've done this for 20 years. NO problems. do NOT use filters to try to get it out. just not worth it. Let is settle!
Nice job. 15-16 ppm tds and high Fe in my water as well.
do you clean the first 2 tanks at any point?
Seems like a great method!
I once had a cat scan patient whose legs were very badly burned. He had 3rd degree burn scars from doing DIY concrete and he saturated his jeans with it. His neighbor spotted him and had him shower immediately but he still had to have many surgeries. I've never taken the caustic nature of concrete lightly since.
Bentonite Clay
I didnt know that, thanks.
USS Navasota AO-106 Thank YOu for this info. all this time and never heard of that ,I Praise Father GOD ,He has Protected Me .I went and looked it up JESUS IS LORD
I’ve worked with concrete off and on over the last 2 years and have soaked myself and had it dry on me(bagged concrete and from a truck from facility). Not once have I been burned, I even worked at a plant where all we did all day was pour concrete into forms, so I’ve had lots of exposure. I’ve been told once buy some old fart “your gonna hate life when that shit burns you” as I’m using my hand as a scoop and too smooth it. Idk maybe my skin is built different but not once have I been burned or even my skin irritated by it. 🤔
Edit: from my research it’s lime or chromium that causes the burn, and from what the internet says i should have been burnt to a crisp by now😂even got that shit in my eyes and was just fine.
@@Smallpeenman Maybe, just maybe you're a superhero! :)
Awesome work. Know it's tiresome, completely worth it. Family need to appreciate you!
I'm making a spring box just like this. Thank you for this video
I am currently tapping a spring on my land in the mountains of NY I have watched your video 20 times over the past few years and now I'm about to do it. I'm confused. But I will do my best. Wish me luck
How did it go?
Eleven months ago
Please update us!
Agree with others. How did it go?
Detailed update please!
Love this video! Im planning to get livestock so im going to attempt to tap into another spring that is on my property and this video helped me figure out how to do it. I recently bought a house that uses a spring to supply it with water. My spring box looks similar to the one you built and it flows down an underground pipe for about 250 yards and fills a partially buried 500 gallon tank that is near my house. There is a well pump at the bottom of the tank that pumps it into the house. My tank also has an overflow which runs underground to a creek so the water is constantly flowing.
Looks like a sweet piece of property you have up there!
Thanks!
@@downstateradv Hello, Im going to be putting in the exact same system in my spring. I've subscribed and I plan on asking questions in the future thanks. Here's one, does your 500 gallon in ground tank stay filled?
Nice to learn. Watching from Africa (Cameroon)
not sure if anyone has mentioned previously , this should be your sump & syphon form higher up,,, keep that lower tube/pipe for exactly what you said" cleaning out is very easy" . taking water from the bottom is going to help clog things up down the line ,, if you get contaminated water in the sump at that nice slow rate sediment will sink to the bottom while you are taking the cleanest water higher up.
Nice work! You could add a couple of small metal trays to the bottom of the box to collect any silt. Then you could periodically dump the silt out of the trays to clean.
The tray on the bottom, excellent idea.
Do you know when a spring becomes a stream? I’m trying to figure out the difference between the two.
When it's out of the ground, it's a stream @@dcampos5284
All good things take hard work and sacrifice :)
Great job.!!!!!!! Congrats ❤
Good thorough explanation, Thanks
I love stuff like this
Great spot for a moonshine still! Got to have cold water for the condenser.
In Italy I see lots of springs boxed like this, however the water is collected from the top so whatever residue sinks to the bottom. Never ever I have seen where you catch it at the bottom. The boxes are allowed to fill up and the catch sits half way or on top and the overflow a little higher. And also are always sealed so no insects can get in, or less likely.
Rothari, that is exactly what we have here. Please watch the video all the way through. I have about a 3-4 inch settling basin at the bottom and then the tap pipe allows water to leave. Above that is the overflow in case the tap gets clogged. And the entire think is sealed tightly with wood and foam tape on top.
@@downstateradv totally polluted huh haha
Cajun music is unique, but also very soothing. Thanks
I am sure the wildlife really like you effort
Elaborate
Great video with a lot of valuable information!
Thank you my brother!
Stay safe and have fun!
You too! Appreciate the kind words.
Very nicely done. I never thought of hydraulic cement. Where do you get it from. Then do you use bentonite clay in the interior? How did you bring the pipe through the block? I have a 5gpm flowing on my property ALSO in NY. Thank you for your educational vid, it sure is helpful.
It's awesome ❤❤
About to purchase land i Catskills NY. Will be doing this as well. Thanks for sharing. Do you have a vid for the collection system?
If you get a heavier flow- you could use a rsm pimp and pump it uphill.
Cool lil artesian !
W
Do you have any advice on locating spring sources?
Great setup
awesome video man!
Lovely i love it
in running water the best to use is lime slurry with cement 70 to 30 % water dont goes thru, and i slow hardening , so you can form it easy. nothin else works so good
our house when I was growing up had a water supply from a spring. When we sold the house the water had to be tested and I remember it was found to be no good. I guess we were used to it though.
We just built a concrete “funnel” to catch the water and put a lid over and and then had the water run down to a spring house to collect and then we used it from there
Thx, getting cinder block and hydraulic cement soon.
I like to make the walls higher on these. Just keeps the rain water out better.
What can you use a Y or T instead of unhooking it all time it should go to both sides amine flow but if you do it for hit both sides go through maybe not I don’t know I just thought so I have to do it all the time when you put a Val or some kind of a bonnet do you shut it off in the winter time
Hello, I just found this video and we have a property that we need to build a spring. I have so many questions but the most important is how do we know how to find the area and make a spring. Please advise
Thank you
hi, probably better to use a steel top so condensation cannot leach tannin and chemicals from the treated ply into your water .
Take a 2” diameter 10’ long well point and drive it down 20-30 ‘. Your set. Don’t over think it.
Is there a reason why you made the catchment box so much taller than the overflow pipe? Thanks! Lots of good info
Basically just to get above the grade for the surrounding Hill to avoid groundwater intrusion.
Amazing bro thank you so much
Awesome!!!
I have a spring that runs all year ling, even on draughts. I just bought the property, and this spring looks nasty, the old owner did a terrible job. I mean, there are even those baby frogs that are 1 inch long and have no legs swimming on the puddle where it pours out of the ground. And is feeds a very large pound about 15 feet away. I have to dig a hole between the spring and the pound and make a dam there, and dig a deeper channel to it, but I am very scared to dig too close to the spring and kill it. Any tips?
It's a tough call and you certainly can "kill" a spring by digging near it. I'd have to see it to be of any help. Maybe find a local ol timer and see if they could come take a look and share some thoughts
We have a spring that needs to be developed. I’m definitely going to use the hydraulic cement. The undeveloped spring puts out so watch water year round that my first attempt damning it failed. I couldn’t place the clay fast enough. I think I’m going start with the cement on the side then place the dam. We have another spring that’s developed and is about 5 GPM. I made a video of it.
I have a mountain cliff, on my property.
Can i create a spring?
Looks great, BUT above the spring, you need a “surface water diverter system, ( an inverted “V”) so surface water doesn’t seep into your reservoir….
Did you get the water test after the cement .ION machine small one ,look for one that does water & Air it gets the iron .A little home work . UV light can help to.
This is an amazing video, I learned so much, I have a couple of questions, when does a spring become a stream? And is there county permits for collecting water involved,
Thanks in advance
We built a block containment years ago. Still had seepage on the outside of the block.
Hey I meant to ask what kind of black flexible pipe were you using in one of your spring videos?
How do you keep that from freezing in winter?
that huge bubble bee at 23:00
Thanks, bud.
the pipe doesn’t freeze in winter? How cold does it get in upstate winter?
You don't even need to winterize a spring. It'll run through that black pipe all winter and never freeze.
I’ve been studying my water it seems like it flows year round I cannot see anywhere I can tell the water is coming from besides potentially the ground and I am praying it’s a true natural ground spring not a fisher spring.. I’m scared to dig around it because I was told they can move but it seems constant seems like it comes from the ground also seems like clean water ... I’ve been praying this is a legit natural ground water spring if it is it would be the greatest blessing on this property ... any way I could ask how to truly know? It does seem to feed the creek it moves from my property down the creek not visa versa
Honestly your best bet is to just use your best judgment try to find the absolute beginning of it and start digging. but definitely be careful while you're digging and watch carefully you'll start to see the mouth quickly but you can also dig too quickly and end up smearing the mouth in if that makes sense. If it is a ground spring and on flat ground then you'll need to make what's called a spring box. If it's on a hill try to keep digging up until you find the true start of it you'll see it coming out cold and clear very quickly.
Could you add chipped block in the cavities to?
I live in the Royal Springs. Peacock Springs and Running Springs area on my farm. I have 60 headed livestock and I'm very concerned with about not having water for s*** It's the fan my husband died, so I'm all alone to do the work. Is there anyway? I can tap a Spring. My will is only 21 foot. That would take all the aggravation.And all the worry I have about water.If something happens with an AMP, thank you could help guide me.
You know the words this springs all around my property
Great video and sound 👌
Do you ever find yourself in North Carolina? I have a property there with a few springs.
It is too bad you did not use threaded rod with a J hook at the bottom set in the wet cement then you could have drilled holes in the lid and tightened the lid down with both neoprene washers and steel washers so the lid would compress the sealing gasket and could be secured to prevent tampering. When you go back with hydraulic cement you should create a slope on top of the blocks away from the rock face so your lid slopes away from the spring this will prevent rainwater from getting into the spring box. You should secure fine stainless steel mesh/ screen over the overflow to prevent insects, bugs, mice, chipmunks, etc from crawling in. When the spring is just open flowing to the outside world and your delivery pipe is not connected you should put a plumbing trap on the end of the pipe, the trap will always be full of moving water that will again prevent animals from making a home in your spring.
Great informative video! Thank you for sharing. Question: how do you plan to line the inside with hydraulic cement with the spring flowing? Please share when you do that project. Or perhaps you have since this is a year old. I will check and subscribe. Thanks again.
Bentonite Clay is what you want to line with and lead-free.
Hydraulic cement will set up underwater, in fact it will setup with water flowing such as around a pipe with water leaking around it. It sets up by a chemical reaction and will expand as it sets up, it can burn you so gloves are required. It’s also very sticky and sticks to your skin and it’s hard to get off once it dries.
Hydraulic cement sets very fast, within minutes once mixed with water. When you can feel it getting warm or hot you’ve got seconds to get it in place and finished.
@@Hoaxer51thank you so much for the information! I was thinking of regular cement that works for under water after it dries. Bt what you are referring to is applied directly while wet or under water. Great information!
Big bumblebee at 23:09
Good video, aye. Question: How did you calculate the height of the overflow?
Hey Jerry. Just based on experience. You don't want it too high since there really should be no back pressure in a system like this. It should be free flowing always.
23:23 at the 2:00 position from the cap stone, tiny critter! It takes off running at 23:28 LOL
Bee
nice thank you
What a great video! Are there particular blocks you need that are safe/sanitary for water supplies? Or is it just any concrete blocks? Thanks again!
Thanks Rupes. No standard concrete blocks are fine but I coat all of the interior with mortar and hand smooth to keep growth down
@@downstateradv that’s great thanks - I’ll be up in the woods doing ours in the coming weeks. Great content 🙏🏻🙏🏻
@@RupesMcDGuitar Im going to start the exact same project. How did it go?
I will do the same style ..maybe quite bigger..thanks for some idea
Do u need to add a filtration tank ?
Great video. I'm about to attempt to get ours done. I'm not very handy so let's see how it goes
You should start making whiskey with that spring
You're mixing up your terminology in reference to groundwater. Groundwater is what's coming out of your spring. Surface water is what you don't want to infiltrate into your well box.
Primary water is a little known renewable resource that originates deep within the earth. When conditions are right, oxygen combines with hydrogen to make new water. This water is constantly being pushed up toward the surface under great pressure. The water finds its way towards the surface through fissures or faults. Depending on the geology, primary water can be accessed close to the surface, or even flow out as a spring.
Primary water has never been a part of the hydrologic cycle until it finally arrives at the surface. Traditional hydrologic cycle water is finite and volumes fluctuate relative to available rain and snowmelt. Primary water is renewable and plentiful regardless of the weather.
Hi ! I’m in Upstate NY and I’m doing research to do this! Where are you located? I’d love to hire you
Hi barb. I'm in the upper Catskills near cobleskill.
I have an old spring on grandparents land. It fed the house I inherited and cannot find anyone who can help or advise how to clean it up as it is falling in.
why not put a ball valve on the outlet so the tank can fill up, then open the valve just enough so the outflow isn't greater than the inflow so as to keep the tank at a certain volume. This will allow you a higher velocity at the exit. just a thought
Ohhhhh, so that is why there is a pipe coming out of my well. It took me over a year to figure that
I guess you never had a drought... that is why they dig well much deeper than static level... good video though.
How long is your waterline and is it all downhill?
Does this tank need to be full in order for water to have enough pressure to get to the other end ?
Do you adjust the water flow in this pipe?
Does it freeze in the winter?
Hey Eren. So the delivery line from the spring over to the 500 gallon buried tank is roughly 40 ft long.
Yes it does have a very slight decline all the way to the tank. That keeps sediment from building up inside the line.
The gravity provides plenty enough movement for the water.
No the water is a constant flow from the earth.
We bypass that delivery pipe and the holding tank during the winter and let it run down a chute to the creek. If we run the 500 gallon tank dry I'll reconnect the spring for the two or three hours it needs to fill that tank and redisconnect it.
@@downstateradv Oh thanks a lot.
So im 22 and Im from Bosnia and I pretty much live in the mountains and I have a similar water supply system.
I recently moved into our old house and I have a lot of problems with the system, and since Im new in this area of work and knowledge, there has been an enormous amount of "head scratching" moments for me .
So ,for a long time (about 7 years)
Nobody was living in the house and there has been lots of changes in the area .
So basically there has been lots of earth slides or dk how do you call them correctly.
So basically I have an 1000 litres collecting box made out of concrete ,about 700 meters far away from my house ,up in the mountains, and the altitude difference is about 90 meters.
So the waterline is going from this huge collecting tank to the main tank ,that is about 100 meters away from the house.
So the issue was that the waterline pipe,was buried about one ft underground and after the earth slides it has been broken in several places,so we had to replace about a third of waterline pipe with a new one.
Now the issue is that the area is all in the woods and there is lots of new trees and long grass that werent there before ,so its little bit difficult to figure out the right way to lay the pipe on the ground ,since a little mistake creates an an air bubble in the pipe as soon as the pressure drops just a little bit and it tottaly stops the flow ,then I have do go to open the pipe and let the air out and connect it again and so on...
Until now I see a little bit of progress in my work and I hope that I will figure it out.
Sounds like you're having a bit of a hydrolock situation. I would suggest installing what's called a drop pipe every 50 ft or so. Basically it's a t in line with a piece going up into the air and a hood on top to keep bugs and animals out. Essentially it allows air into the pipe and keeps it flowing. The only downside is that you are going to get a lot more of an increase flow out of it and it may really be gushing by the time it gets down to the house. Be careful with that part. But that should clear up any sort of hydrolock problem.
@@downstateradv Oh thx a lot bro.
@@downstateradv Bro ,sorry for bothering u,but could u send me an picture example of this setup with t pieces with hood on top ,so I cpuld check if I can find it in the stores over here.
Thanks in advance.
Won’t the underground water just eventually seep out further and further?
Why not chip out the old pipe location there may have been something in there that was blocking your flow. I would never have messed with the water until it leaves the rock, i.e. no hydraulic cement blocking the orifice to the spring then there is no chance of altering the spring and its flow.
Nice. Why don't you line the catchment with pond liner then fill the area with large washed pebbles?
Oh, heads up you don't need minerals in your water, they are bountiful in your normal healthy diet.
please reduce the music volume by 200%, your too low then blasted.
We out pip water if 2 mounth right salt spring halls lane
What are you talking about?
Research the 'primary water table' to understand why there never was, and never will be a shortage of fresh water on earth.
Thats a different way to set blocks. If it works it works...
Well that’s a nice way of putting it, Lol. I would get a battery operated grinder with a diamond blade and scribe and cut the blocks, you can cut rebar with it too. There’s no sense in cutting them short and then using little pieces to fill the gaps, and set them straight on top of each other with no overhang or steps in the joints. If you’re going to do it you may as well make it look good, not good enough, make it right.
Sorry, as a retired mason it’s hard to take.
16:15 Just remember, we need minerals for our bodies and we need it from our vegetables, nuts etc. because theyre organic minerals, the minerals in your spring water are not utilized the way you think, they're in the inorganic form.
Why do you turn it off for the winter?
Mostly because we are not yet there full time and I'm still unsure if the delivery pipe that crosses high above the creek will stay flowing without some sort of heating device. I'm looking into DC internal heating devices and insulating the pipe as we speak and running the whole system off of a small solar system. I'll be at the property in two weeks and will likely run a test then to see how it fares in 0° weather. Realistically though I think that run is too long to count on the water being able to retain its heat from the ground on its own. It's almost a certainty that I will need to add external heat in order to keep that pipe from freezing. Once that system is figured out though it will likely be able to run all year long for a very long time.
@@downstateradv Gotcha. Thanks!
@@downstateradv I would love to see a video or know if you had any success with the heating mechanism. We live up north so freezing temperatures are a guarantee. We are planning on setting up the spring water system this year but we want to find a way to keep it running all year, as we hope to live in our cabin off-grid year round.
That's looking like a project for this summer so definitely stay tuned.
@@downstateradv In my place we have winter of -15°C and we do not need heating system. If the pipe is wide enough (in your video it is) and spring is flowing constantly than it does not get iced. Certainly there is ice around but it runs.
If you have too cold winter it is good idea to make pipe longer and put around the spring instalment more materials (dirt or whatever). 70 centimeters (27 inches) of material around assures it will not get iced at all. That is why in coldy places you will find out pipe comming out of ground... because spring development instalment was insulated by the ground.
If you do it right there is NO NEED of heating even in -25°C (-13°Fahr.). To use heating system instead of ground insulation is just complicated. Something what can run for free why to make it run by instrument which will need maintance?
The intervention at the source seems sacred to you, the fauna and flora you have not foreseen To wish someone lives
I cant keep the salamanders out of my spring. Its like they've lived there for millions of years and not about to let some pipe and dugout spot take there home away
Keep the bacteria and virus too, they seems to be their for millions of years.
Hello would you Come abroad to help?
I lost count of the so yeah's
The only question now is, is that concrete and masonry food safe? Will it leach unwanted chemicals into the water? I would make double sure of that before recommending this.
Everybody has to take their own risk levels and responsibility into account. All I can show is how I did it. Yes, concrete will always leach but it has also been used for a containment method for drinking water since it was invented. And realistically, besides glass, which can't be used for obvious reasons, every material we could use for this purpose is not technically food safe. The good thing is that with how I develop springs, the water barely touches the concrete blocks at all while it's flowing through.
Would you rather it be plastic?
Have no idea what hydronic cement is. Does it cure even under water?
Hydraulic cement. Yes it does. Commonly used for sealing around foundation penetrations
You lose the block, and time, for such pourpose, is better if you use pure cement concrete and wooden frame, for the dam. Which should be begger that This block structure.
your music volumen is far too loud compared to voice volume.
The music junked another video 👎👎👎👎👎💩💩💩😬
Hey again! Did you mean hydrophobic cement???
Erk found it but I suppose technically it is hydrophobic. I know Lowe's sells it premixed not sure about bagged that I mix. Probably in an 80lb bag I can't lift lololololol
Perhaps it's called that in your area. Around here we just call it hydraulic cement.
20lb bucket of grit I mix. Sakcrete. At least it's not 80lbs!
We whant pip water if wash we dirty clothes
I lost interest when there was an ad one minute into the video...
Sorry I don't control that though it does fund future projects through revenue for creators. It's just how this platform works. You could always skip forward. It's a good video so give it another go. Take care.
The sound is terrible
I thought this vid was from 2007 lol
Harsh! 🤣
Concrete is poison not in my water
Too many adds
Sorry James, I don't control them.