I've brewed around 10 batches but it has been a few years since I brewed. I recently bought a larger kettle, random that it is the exact same kettle you are using, and wanted to do a full boil to try and gain a better quality beer versus doing the 3.5 gallons like i've done before. Thank you for the informative video!
Thank you so much! I’m very new to the hobby and it’s overwhelming, not gonna lie. I especially appreciate you explaining the terminology and acronyms, because lots of guides seem to either assume you know them or you’re willing to Google them. Thanks again, cheers!
You're welcome! That's literally what this page is all about. I made it because when I first started brewing I had to watch a million different videos and read it bunch of different websites and books just to compile everything. When I do videos, I try to explain everything on purpose for those who may not know or who be new to the hobby! Thanks and cheers!! 🍻
I just want to tell you how helpful this video is. I just watched it again. I had a few questions but this reminded me of what you said and answered all of them. 😊
@@CityscapeBrewing I did my third brew today. This one was a full boil. It seemed to go well, except my new propane burner put soot all over the bottom of my brew kettle. I think the paint needed to burn off and perhaps I didn't have the air adjusted right. But it sure did the job anyway, :-D
It was a new propane burner? Yeah, I bet it needed to burn off some of the paint on the actual burner itself. That's fairly common the first few times that you use it or at least the first time you boil for an hour. It's been a while since I had a new burner, but I remember mine doing that
Just tried our first extract brew today, an IPA. We learned a lot by some trial and error and referenced back to your videos for some tips. Should turn out great!
No need to be nervous at all. Happy to help out with any questions you have. That's what my channel is all about. Leave questions in the comments or join my live streams on my channel every other Sunday night! I answer any question live! 🍻🤘
@@CityscapeBrewing have you ever heard of Brewer's Best extract kits? I'm in Canada and I am thinking that would be a good spot to start. Very clear instructions, reasonably priced. I thought about going with a American light lager, and after trying the Mexican Cerveza. Maybe when I'm more comfortable I can try changing up recipes a bit. Thanks for your great videos!
@Jaycar-n8d I would not do a lager for your first beer or until you have temperature control during fermentation. Lager yeast needs to be fermented at about 55 degrees. My recommendation is to start with an ale and/or use a kviek yeast if you can, like lutra or voss kviek.
One thing I'm not sure on, is secondary fermentation optional but will produce a cleaner and tastier beer? And also, how do I know it's time to end primary and start secondary fermentation? I've watch a lot of your videos and then I see others where it's saying secondary can cause more problems with oxygen. If you didn't do secondary fermentation, I'm thinking the primary one would be done longer? I like your videos and you make everything easy to understand, I just want to be correct on timing, thank you for your help!
@Jaycar-n8d Great question! It is definitely optional, and I currently don't do a secondary unless I'm adding fruit or something else that I need to remove the yeast. I would leave the beer in the first primary vessel first for a week after fermentation completes. If you need to use a secondary, I would not transfer it to the second vessel until fermentation is complete by at least 3 days.
Beginner brewer here and I followed everything step by step. Brewed a Morebeer kit American Pale Ale, doing bottle condition now. Gotta another week or two, THANKS for vids dude!!!
Hi from the UK, subscribed and have been enjoying your channel. I’ve brewed approx 20 extract kits so far since starting June 2020. Can’t graduate to all-grain just yet for practical reasons, but maybe one day when more space and time is available. Got two batches of pilsners and one of IPA conditioning right now, plus another IPA in the FV. UK homebrew scene seems pretty vibrant and popular right now, really surprised at the quality that even a novice like me can achieve from current extract kits. Thanks for your videos, keep’em coming. All the best.
Thanks for doing this. I definitely learned some more. I'll probably do another extract brew, but I am planning to go to all grain, using the BIAB method. I've got some work to do converting the 15 gallon keg I have into a brew pot but I'll get there. Thanks again Dennis! Jim
You're welcome. I should have done this a while ago for those that are early in their brewing career haha. BIAB is a good method, they make brew pots with the big screen/mesh insert baskets that seem like the way to go for BIAB. The bags themselves can be hard to clean out completely and lift out without a pulley system. That is part of the reason I still use the good ol' rubbermade cooler still. Hose it out and done!
@@CityscapeBrewing I will have to get a pulley for sure, it's sad how down hill you go after 65. Hmm, I do have a cooler like the one you have, I'm not sure how much it holds though. I'll have to rewatch your video and check the size of that cooler. Northern Brewer had a sale and so now I have 3 more kits on the way! 😁🍻 I should be ready to move to all grain by the time I do all those. Because of this video, I'll be sure to put things in the refrigerator. 😁
Nice! The cooler mash ton that I use is 10 gallons. When you switch to all grain... You'll definitely notice a difference. Not that you can't make great beers with extract kits, but you could definitely play around with the recipes a lot more and make them more personal to your tastes and style.
Using non-distilled water will only put more minerals (calcium, magnesium, etc...) than is needed. The "wort" has already been made for you by the company, and they have taken care to have the right mineral content and pH while mashing. The only thing they "took out" of the finished wort is distilled water....therefor the only thing to put back in is also distilled water. The only issue is that DW lacks oxygen so you must oxygenate your wort before fermentation.
You can do it before or after adding yeast, or even both! Oxygen is needed for the start of fermentation, but once it starts, try and limit oxygen after that. Don't open the lid, splash, or shake as little as possible once you see airlock activity.
Have ever experienced your fermenter/carboy blew out? I can tell you just happened this morning. I'm on second day of fermentation when I checked my airlock and bung was on the floor and splatters on the wall. And constant bubbles coming out from the carboy. What's the cause?
That's from a very vigorous fermentation. That happens with very healthy yeast or certain strains specifically. The fermentation gets into the air lock and clogs it up and then the pressure builds up and blows it off. You can prevent that by putting a blow-off tube on instead of an airlock. This is essentially just a piece of vinyl tubing that goes into a mason jar or cup of sanitizer
If you watch my Hazy IPA video below, I show a clogged airlock, where I put on a blow off tube when I noticed it. Watch it here: ua-cam.com/video/pG6GmSFNno4/v-deo.html
@@CityscapeBrewing wow nice tip. I got it fixed. Good thing I have a tubing. But before I message you, I tried to remedy it my self, I dip the fermenter in big bucket filled with ice, that didn't work, then I transfered the beer from carboy to a bucket fermenter that didn't keep it from overflowing. So I message you. Appreciate you so much man.
That's what I'm here for! After fermentation starts, you don't want a lot of oxygen. Hopefully that didn't ruin it by transferring it back and forth during fermentation. I can't say that I've ever done that so let me know if it turns out!
@@CityscapeBrewing continuation from same brew, I found the fermenter lid as slightly opened, and I think because of the gas pressure. There is no more airlock activity compare to last night the blew off tube was really bubbling. So since it's only three days since I made this beer, does that mean it went bad?
I have a question. I've brewed the Dead Ringer IPA and I plan on putting it in a keg when it's done. The directions say to ferment it for 2 weeks, then do a second fermentation of 2 weeks and ADD 1 oz of hops. They are expecting me to bottle this. My question is do I put the hop spider back in the beer when I do this dry hop addition? I see now that they also want me to condition the beer for 2 weeks after bottling (kegging?) How should I go about this? Do I just switch out bottling day for kegging day? Except that I can force carbonate the beer faster than the 2 weeks they say for the sugar to carbonate it? I guess I'm thinking as I type. lol Thanks once again for all your help! Jim
Good questions. It's going to be very different. Once primary fermentation activity has stopped completely for a few days, you're good to go to a secondary. When I dry hop in a secondary, I put my hops in a smaller paint strainer bag that I've dunked in sanitizer. Then I tie that shut and put it in secondary fermenter before I rack the beer in and let sit for a week. Once you transfer to a keg, no need to condition for 2 weeks, bottling takes time to carbonate because of the sugar, you can drink it as soon as it's carbed up. Carbonation depends on the pressure, if you carb at typical serving pressure, it's about a week. Some people pressure for about 36 hours at 30 PSI and that will be about 1.5 to 2 days.
It's hard to be patient but make sure you let it do its thing through fermentation, secondary and carbing up. It's hard and I still rush things but don't, that's how you get off flavors and you'll be glad you didn't.
@@CityscapeBrewing people are saying that to avoid oxygen it's better to add the dry hops while active fermentation is going on. That opening the bucket is putting the brew at risk. I'm thinking that I must be worrying too much. lol Obviously you have had success brewing IPAs. It comes down to having to trust someone. ;-) I did run across a cool hack that I will do in the future. When I put the wort in my fermenter, and the recipe calls for dry hops, I will add the bag then but stick it to the top with strong magnets. Then when I need to dry hop, I'll just pull the magnet off. Oh yeah, this also avoids the secondary fermentation part too. That's yet another hot topic.
Yeah you really have to be splashing around beer to get oxidation. I dry hop almost all my beers, and I never have an issue with it. I almost always do a secondary because it helps with clarity. There's a lot of people who don't do secondary fermentation but I do almost every time, except for New England IPAs Because they are more susceptible to oxidation. That's really the only one I take extra time to avoid transferring a lot.
That's a good question. Some styles the steeping grains will give it the color. A lot of kits come with only dry malt extract which is typically lighter and doesn't add a lot of color, when a small amount of specialty grains will give it the appropriate color for that style. But can you make a beer with all extract, absolutely!
You're welcome! Definitely More than one way to make great beer. It's always fun to see different ways people do it, after more than 10 years of brewing. I'm still learning stuff I didn't know.
The advice about not using distilled water is not correct. The malt extract has minerals in it. Distilled water is actually the best choice for the water you use.
Malt extract is it just sugary syrup from condensed wort. You definitely still need to use salts to get the correct water profile even when using extract kits. I'm actually doing a collaboration video with Ward Labs, who does the water profile test kits in a few weeks. I will have their chemist on my channel and talk about the importance of adding salts and mineral content. With that said, you can definitely start with distilled water, but you will need to add certain salts, depending on what style you are brewing.
I've brewed around 10 batches but it has been a few years since I brewed. I recently bought a larger kettle, random that it is the exact same kettle you are using, and wanted to do a full boil to try and gain a better quality beer versus doing the 3.5 gallons like i've done before. Thank you for the informative video!
Nice! Good job! Let me know if you have any questions! 🍻
Thank you so much! I’m very new to the hobby and it’s overwhelming, not gonna lie. I especially appreciate you explaining the terminology and acronyms, because lots of guides seem to either assume you know them or you’re willing to Google them. Thanks again, cheers!
You're welcome! That's literally what this page is all about. I made it because when I first started brewing I had to watch a million different videos and read it bunch of different websites and books just to compile everything. When I do videos, I try to explain everything on purpose for those who may not know or who be new to the hobby! Thanks and cheers!! 🍻
I just want to tell you how helpful this video is. I just watched it again. I had a few questions but this reminded me of what you said and answered all of them. 😊
Awesome. That's why I started this channel! Glad to help! 🍻
@@CityscapeBrewing I did my third brew today. This one was a full boil. It seemed to go well, except my new propane burner put soot all over the bottom of my brew kettle. I think the paint needed to burn off and perhaps I didn't have the air adjusted right. But it sure did the job anyway, :-D
It was a new propane burner? Yeah, I bet it needed to burn off some of the paint on the actual burner itself. That's fairly common the first few times that you use it or at least the first time you boil for an hour. It's been a while since I had a new burner, but I remember mine doing that
Just tried our first extract brew today, an IPA. We learned a lot by some trial and error and referenced back to your videos for some tips. Should turn out great!
Awesome! That's great! Glad it went well, let me know how it turns out!
Great video, I learned a lot! I'm still nervous but going to give it a shot. Your video gave me a boost of confidence! Thanks
No need to be nervous at all. Happy to help out with any questions you have. That's what my channel is all about. Leave questions in the comments or join my live streams on my channel every other Sunday night! I answer any question live! 🍻🤘
@@CityscapeBrewing have you ever heard of Brewer's Best extract kits? I'm in Canada and I am thinking that would be a good spot to start. Very clear instructions, reasonably priced. I thought about going with a American light lager, and after trying the Mexican Cerveza. Maybe when I'm more comfortable I can try changing up recipes a bit. Thanks for your great videos!
@Jaycar-n8d I would not do a lager for your first beer or until you have temperature control during fermentation. Lager yeast needs to be fermented at about 55 degrees. My recommendation is to start with an ale and/or use a kviek yeast if you can, like lutra or voss kviek.
One thing I'm not sure on, is secondary fermentation optional but will produce a cleaner and tastier beer? And also, how do I know it's time to end primary and start secondary fermentation? I've watch a lot of your videos and then I see others where it's saying secondary can cause more problems with oxygen. If you didn't do secondary fermentation, I'm thinking the primary one would be done longer? I like your videos and you make everything easy to understand, I just want to be correct on timing, thank you for your help!
@Jaycar-n8d Great question! It is definitely optional, and I currently don't do a secondary unless I'm adding fruit or something else that I need to remove the yeast. I would leave the beer in the first primary vessel first for a week after fermentation completes. If you need to use a secondary, I would not transfer it to the second vessel until fermentation is complete by at least 3 days.
Beginner brewer here and I followed everything step by step. Brewed a Morebeer kit American Pale Ale, doing bottle condition now. Gotta another week or two, THANKS for vids dude!!!
You're welcome! It's a fun hobby! Let me know if you have any questions! 🍻
Just got your stickers dude, thanks a lot. Really cool thing to do!! Getting ready to brew an Irish Red Ale extract.
Awesome! Glad you got them! Let me know how it turns out or if you have any other questions. Here to help.
The main judge “my wife” liked the Pale Ale a lot, so that’s a plus.
She's the one you have to convince the most so you can keep brewing! Haha 🍻
Hi from the UK, subscribed and have been enjoying your channel. I’ve brewed approx 20 extract kits so far since starting June 2020. Can’t graduate to all-grain just yet for practical reasons, but maybe one day when more space and time is available. Got two batches of pilsners and one of IPA conditioning right now, plus another IPA in the FV. UK homebrew scene seems pretty vibrant and popular right now, really surprised at the quality that even a novice like me can achieve from current extract kits. Thanks for your videos, keep’em coming. All the best.
Thanks! Glad you like them! Sounds like you're off to an awesome start! I'd love to try one someday if I head across the pond! Cheers! 🍻
Great video!
Thanks! Glad to help. Let me know if you have any questions! That is what my channel is all about! 🍻 Cheers!
the Garage/set is looking good
Thanks! Definitely getting some "upgrades" to the set!
I've been waiting for this! YES :-D
Okay, now to watch it.
Thanks for doing this. I definitely learned some more. I'll probably do another extract brew, but I am planning to go to all grain, using the BIAB method. I've got some work to do converting the 15 gallon keg I have into a brew pot but I'll get there.
Thanks again Dennis!
Jim
You're welcome. I should have done this a while ago for those that are early in their brewing career haha. BIAB is a good method, they make brew pots with the big screen/mesh insert baskets that seem like the way to go for BIAB. The bags themselves can be hard to clean out completely and lift out without a pulley system. That is part of the reason I still use the good ol' rubbermade cooler still. Hose it out and done!
@@CityscapeBrewing I will have to get a pulley for sure, it's sad how down hill you go after 65. Hmm, I do have a cooler like the one you have, I'm not sure how much it holds though. I'll have to rewatch your video and check the size of that cooler.
Northern Brewer had a sale and so now I have 3 more kits on the way! 😁🍻
I should be ready to move to all grain by the time I do all those.
Because of this video, I'll be sure to put things in the refrigerator. 😁
Nice! The cooler mash ton that I use is 10 gallons. When you switch to all grain... You'll definitely notice a difference. Not that you can't make great beers with extract kits, but you could definitely play around with the recipes a lot more and make them more personal to your tastes and style.
Another great video Dennis.Really cool t shirt too!
Thanks. I have a bunch of good brewing ones, but this one's on the top of the list. Hop-man.
@@CityscapeBrewing
I wonder if i can get that shirt in Australia?
Only one way to find out... Google hop-man shirt haha 😂 do it!
@@CityscapeBrewing
Will do.Thanks 👍🏻
Using non-distilled water will only put more minerals (calcium, magnesium, etc...) than is needed. The "wort" has already been made for you by the company, and they have taken care to have the right mineral content and pH while mashing. The only thing they "took out" of the finished wort is distilled water....therefor the only thing to put back in is also distilled water. The only issue is that DW lacks oxygen so you must oxygenate your wort before fermentation.
Question: after adding the yeast, do I need to shake it to aerate or shake it before adding the yeast?
You can do it before or after adding yeast, or even both! Oxygen is needed for the start of fermentation, but once it starts, try and limit oxygen after that. Don't open the lid, splash, or shake as little as possible once you see airlock activity.
@@CityscapeBrewing appreciate it
Anytime! Happy to help. That's what my channel is all about!
Have ever experienced your fermenter/carboy blew out? I can tell you just happened this morning. I'm on second day of fermentation when I checked my airlock and bung was on the floor and splatters on the wall. And constant bubbles coming out from the carboy. What's the cause?
That's from a very vigorous fermentation. That happens with very healthy yeast or certain strains specifically. The fermentation gets into the air lock and clogs it up and then the pressure builds up and blows it off. You can prevent that by putting a blow-off tube on instead of an airlock. This is essentially just a piece of vinyl tubing that goes into a mason jar or cup of sanitizer
If you watch my Hazy IPA video below, I show a clogged airlock, where I put on a blow off tube when I noticed it. Watch it here: ua-cam.com/video/pG6GmSFNno4/v-deo.html
@@CityscapeBrewing wow nice tip. I got it fixed. Good thing I have a tubing. But before I message you, I tried to remedy it my self, I dip the fermenter in big bucket filled with ice, that didn't work, then I transfered the beer from carboy to a bucket fermenter that didn't keep it from overflowing. So I message you. Appreciate you so much man.
That's what I'm here for! After fermentation starts, you don't want a lot of oxygen. Hopefully that didn't ruin it by transferring it back and forth during fermentation. I can't say that I've ever done that so let me know if it turns out!
@@CityscapeBrewing continuation from same brew, I found the fermenter lid as slightly opened, and I think because of the gas pressure. There is no more airlock activity compare to last night the blew off tube was really bubbling. So since it's only three days since I made this beer, does that mean it went bad?
I have a question. I've brewed the Dead Ringer IPA and I plan on putting it in a keg when it's done. The directions say to ferment it for 2 weeks, then do a second fermentation of 2 weeks and ADD 1 oz of hops. They are expecting me to bottle this. My question is do I put the hop spider back in the beer when I do this dry hop addition?
I see now that they also want me to condition the beer for 2 weeks after bottling (kegging?)
How should I go about this? Do I just switch out bottling day for kegging day? Except that I can force carbonate the beer faster than the 2 weeks they say for the sugar to carbonate it? I guess I'm thinking as I type. lol
Thanks once again for all your help!
Jim
Good questions. It's going to be very different. Once primary fermentation activity has stopped completely for a few days, you're good to go to a secondary. When I dry hop in a secondary, I put my hops in a smaller paint strainer bag that I've dunked in sanitizer. Then I tie that shut and put it in secondary fermenter before I rack the beer in and let sit for a week. Once you transfer to a keg, no need to condition for 2 weeks, bottling takes time to carbonate because of the sugar, you can drink it as soon as it's carbed up. Carbonation depends on the pressure, if you carb at typical serving pressure, it's about a week. Some people pressure for about 36 hours at 30 PSI and that will be about 1.5 to 2 days.
@@CityscapeBrewing Ah, okay. I got it. I can't wait to pour my first draft! :-D But of course, I am going to have to wait. lol
It's hard to be patient but make sure you let it do its thing through fermentation, secondary and carbing up. It's hard and I still rush things but don't, that's how you get off flavors and you'll be glad you didn't.
@@CityscapeBrewing people are saying that to avoid oxygen it's better to add the dry hops while active fermentation is going on. That opening the bucket is putting the brew at risk. I'm thinking that I must be worrying too much. lol Obviously you have had success brewing IPAs. It comes down to having to trust someone. ;-)
I did run across a cool hack that I will do in the future. When I put the wort in my fermenter, and the recipe calls for dry hops, I will add the bag then but stick it to the top with strong magnets. Then when I need to dry hop, I'll just pull the magnet off. Oh yeah, this also avoids the secondary fermentation part too. That's yet another hot topic.
Yeah you really have to be splashing around beer to get oxidation. I dry hop almost all my beers, and I never have an issue with it. I almost always do a secondary because it helps with clarity. There's a lot of people who don't do secondary fermentation but I do almost every time, except for New England IPAs Because they are more susceptible to oxidation. That's really the only one I take extra time to avoid transferring a lot.
Am I the only one that brews an ALL extract wort? Why add the grain? What am I missing?
That's a good question. Some styles the steeping grains will give it the color. A lot of kits come with only dry malt extract which is typically lighter and doesn't add a lot of color, when a small amount of specialty grains will give it the appropriate color for that style. But can you make a beer with all extract, absolutely!
@@CityscapeBrewing Thanks for writing back. I do add raw sugar for extra alcohol but that doesn't need to boil.
You're welcome! Definitely More than one way to make great beer. It's always fun to see different ways people do it, after more than 10 years of brewing. I'm still learning stuff I didn't know.
@@CityscapeBrewing My first batch of HB was in 1982, I've taken some time off. Things have changed.
I bet! That and home bring supplies are much more plentiful today than they used to be back then I'm sure! 🍻
The advice about not using distilled water is not correct. The malt extract has minerals in it. Distilled water is actually the best choice for the water you use.
Malt extract is it just sugary syrup from condensed wort. You definitely still need to use salts to get the correct water profile even when using extract kits. I'm actually doing a collaboration video with Ward Labs, who does the water profile test kits in a few weeks. I will have their chemist on my channel and talk about the importance of adding salts and mineral content. With that said, you can definitely start with distilled water, but you will need to add certain salts, depending on what style you are brewing.