Todd, all your videos are VERY helpful. I am a mechanic and you are doing a great job overall. I am learning a lot from your experience. My 84 928 is covered and ready for a complete restoration.
Hey Ed, thanks for the vote of confidence! Probably incorrectly, I feel like I am almost on the home straight of getting the engine back in... that's my main goal. In and running. Then we can start discussing all the other bits (rear suspension, exhaust, transmission, interior, bodywork, .. .the list goes on ;)). Thanks for watching!
Hi Todd. If you need a new 4-pin female connector to connect the wiring loom to the fuel sender unit, then here are the part no.s for the: (1) Connector housing = 901.612.891.01; and (2) bush (the metal female pins) = 999.652.371.12 (you need 4 of these female pins). Hope this helps. Mo. P.S. I’ve finished the mechanical restoration of my 1980 928, and it’s about to go to the body shop for a full glass-out re-spray (Grand Prix White). 😎
That's really useful Mo, thanks! Oh it sounds like you are about 1 year ahead of me... was yours in bad/ok/good condition when you started? Would love to see some shots (you can message me on facebook or instagram)
Hi Todd, just msgd you via Facebook. Would be good to keep in touch as we progress the resto on our respective 928s. Mine is a 1980 4.5L Auto in the same colour as yours. 😊
The small nuts are 5.5mm. I just repaired mine this afternoon, it was in a very sorry state,lots of corrosion, broken low level wire, but it works now ,thanks again for the video.
@@MrToddgibbs The resistance wire is Nichrome wire, the sane as is used in vapes etc. I think it is arond 37 AWG gauge or 0.09 mm,the low level wire is just plain copper wire, use what you can get it is just a link from the top terminal to the pressed link at the bottom of the sender. The lower link was broken on mine but I managed to clean both halves and make a solder bridge to connect the two halves.The two contacts need to be clean as does the small plate on the bottom of the float. Nichrome is easily available on the bay
I love your videos, keep up the good work! I think that the wire which had loose contacts is just not running along the correct path between the contacts. Compare it to the other side: it should run over the single tip of the V shaped contact, and be held secure by the other contact (like the other wire). There is probably a little resistance between the contacts, and since the wire is not 'in between', they just stand 'open'. (Did I explain that well? A drawing would be much easier..)
Nice job, the low fuel warning should be close to zero ohms if measured against the metal body. I think you must have been adding the wire resistance with the other pin.
Hi Gary - ah, yes maybe I connected the wrong pins... that would make sense... 0 + entire_wire_resistance = ~100 ohm. I'll try again with the other pin. Thanks!
lol :) If you look at the top of the fuel tank you will see the connected plugged into the sender unit... in fact, you must have one as its the only thing blocking the fuel tank!
Todd, all your videos are VERY helpful. I am a mechanic and you are doing a great job overall. I am learning a lot from your experience. My 84 928 is covered and ready for a complete restoration.
Hey Ed, thanks for the vote of confidence! Probably incorrectly, I feel like I am almost on the home straight of getting the engine back in... that's my main goal. In and running. Then we can start discussing all the other bits (rear suspension, exhaust, transmission, interior, bodywork, .. .the list goes on ;)). Thanks for watching!
Hi Todd. If you need a new 4-pin female connector to connect the wiring loom to the fuel sender unit, then here are the part no.s for the: (1) Connector housing = 901.612.891.01; and (2) bush (the metal female pins) = 999.652.371.12 (you need 4 of these female pins). Hope this helps. Mo. P.S. I’ve finished the mechanical restoration of my 1980 928, and it’s about to go to the body shop for a full glass-out re-spray (Grand Prix White). 😎
That's really useful Mo, thanks! Oh it sounds like you are about 1 year ahead of me... was yours in bad/ok/good condition when you started? Would love to see some shots (you can message me on facebook or instagram)
Thanks Mo, that was really helpful!
Hi Todd, just msgd you via Facebook. Would be good to keep in touch as we progress the resto on our respective 928s. Mine is a 1980 4.5L Auto in the same colour as yours. 😊
Hi Mo, double check you messaged the right 'me'... nothing come through yet.
Hi Todd, delighted and surprised your sender unit was in good shape - and didn't need any fiddly resoldering 😄👍👍Keep up the good work, John
Hi John, yes same here! was really easy and quite satisfying to bring it back to health :)
This is really interesting for me as mine only reads 1/2 when full, rises really slowly and the reserve light is on all the time. Thanks for this
Glad the video is useful! Thanks for commenting
The small nuts are 5.5mm. I just repaired mine this afternoon, it was in a very sorry state,lots of corrosion, broken low level wire, but it works now ,thanks again for the video.
@@mickmac3118thanks! I have one here I need to repair… where did you get the wire?
@@MrToddgibbs The resistance wire is Nichrome wire, the sane as is used in vapes etc. I think it is arond 37 AWG gauge or 0.09 mm,the low level wire is just plain copper wire, use what you can get it is just a link from the top terminal to the pressed link at the bottom of the sender. The lower link was broken on mine but I managed to clean both halves and make a solder bridge to connect the two halves.The two contacts need to be clean as does the small plate on the bottom of the float. Nichrome is easily available on the bay
@mickmac3118 perfect thanks!
I’m enjoying your work immensely! I too am having connector issues with my sender, and I hope you post a video with your solution.
Hi Jim, dont worry... I'll be sure to video it when I do solve it. Thanks for watching!
I love your videos, keep up the good work!
I think that the wire which had loose contacts is just not running along the correct path between the contacts. Compare it to the other side: it should run over the single tip of the V shaped contact, and be held secure by the other contact (like the other wire). There is probably a little resistance between the contacts, and since the wire is not 'in between', they just stand 'open'.
(Did I explain that well? A drawing would be much easier..)
Hi Tommy - could you draw something, take a photo and post to my facebook messenger or instagram account please? thanks!
Nice job, the low fuel warning should be close to zero ohms if measured against the metal body. I think you must have been adding the wire resistance with the other pin.
Hi Gary - ah, yes maybe I connected the wrong pins... that would make sense... 0 + entire_wire_resistance = ~100 ohm. I'll try again with the other pin. Thanks!
So thats what that thingy is
Hey Tarik, lol yes. I was lucky that mine wasn’t too bad inside. Was actually surprised it worked :)
@@MrToddgibbs mine was sitting in the trunk, so now i have to find out if its extra or the one thats current
lol :) If you look at the top of the fuel tank you will see the connected plugged into the sender unit... in fact, you must have one as its the only thing blocking the fuel tank!
@@MrToddgibbs cool ill put it on my list to look for next time. Thank you
A sane man would just buy the right tools. After the cost of restoring a 928 what would a decent socket set cost???
Hey Martin. Comically, I had the right size…. I just assumed I didn’t as it looked tiny. Rest assured I used the socket set to do it up :)
I should probably clarify, I was also doing it this way so I could watch the bolt to make sure I wasn’t going to twist it off.