I note you didn't have that plastic tube on the rear brake bleed screw. What I did is fit a smaller plastic pipe inside your main pipe, this smaller pipe inside dia should be good fit over the rear bleed screw. I think it is important that you have this because - first you can see the air/oil flowing out and - secondly you will have oil at the nipple end when the brake peddle is fully depress so that you don't have any air going back into the brake line. Otherwise good job.
Instead of shop towel to catch fluids, I use incontinence pads, or piddle pads, available at drug stores. I keep one underneath engine to catch any leaks as well. Also, safety glasses would be a good idea when dealing with automobile fluids, especially pressurized systems. Great videos. Keep up the good work.
How does the brake pressure check switch factor into this system. Is the purpose of that to indicate air in the lines? A video I watched at one point said to check that before each drive.
If the brakes are new in the front (with braided lines) I should expect a lot more bubbles right? I'm tempted to syringe prefill the caliper + line to avoid air lock (and or the amount of foot pumped bleeding. Was the order intentional (front first then rears?)
Hello.thanks for the videos ! It looks like you have less liquid going out from the rear break. Is it always like this ? I thought mine was damage because of that … thanks !!
I have never noticed a fluid volume difference between the front and the back. As long as your are able to get all the air out and your car stops properly I don't see any reason for concern. The main thing is the fluid can move inside the lines and there is no air.
Hi, is there a specific order which you have to follow when bleeding the brakes? Like closest wheel to the master cylinder first to the furthest? I keep hearing different ways... Thanks
There is indeed a specific order. It depends on whether your car is left or right hand drive. My newer video talks about it in detail link below. Operation Bad Wolf[Ep 23] - Eezibleed Your Classic Mini's Brakes ua-cam.com/video/ajZDmZaIZNU/v-deo.html
stick a vacuum pump and bottle on the nipple, crack the nipple, wait til no bubbles, shut nipple, done. one person required only! and yes, do furthest from master cylinder first.
Video was helpful i did the jobe but when i did the rear left drum it was leaking and the bleed nipple didn't screw. it was rolling. sould i took the repair kit and change it or i have to buy a new drum? check my channel i took the car for a ride just using the handbrake :P
Those nipples strip out pretty easily if they are over tightened so that might be whats going on. Maybe remove the nipple and take a look at the threads to confirm it's not stripped. If it is damaged you will just need to buy a new nipple. If the thread on the backplate is damaged you may have to replace more items.
Thank you for the feedback! I actually have a Rode VideoMic Pro that I use. I need to turn the sound up in post processing more it sounds like. I really appreciate the info and will make sure its louder in the future.
Classic Mini DIY Turbo Mini Tech, what it is, i had the pdwa valve on but had a modern master cylinder which had only one pipe coming from it so i assumed that the pipe feed went in to the valve and then fed the other three outlets (back and two front) but it was only bleeding the brake directly under the main feed from the master cylinder, this is because the pdwa valve works by taking two feeds from the master cylinder not one, and thats why i couldnt bleed the brake on the opposite side to the feed, so i could either get a later type master cylinder with two feeds or just a valve to split the single feed in to a double feed, problem solved my nigga!
great videos, thanks. working on a 91 mini, my first ever project and your videos are providing huge support!
Glad to help out! Good luck getting started on your project. :-)
I note you didn't have that plastic tube on the rear brake bleed screw. What I did is fit a smaller plastic pipe inside your main pipe, this smaller pipe inside dia should be good fit over the rear bleed screw. I think it is important that you have this because - first you can see the air/oil flowing out and - secondly you will have oil at the nipple end when the brake peddle is fully depress so that you don't have any air going back into the brake line. Otherwise good job.
Instead of shop towel to catch fluids, I use incontinence pads, or piddle pads, available at drug stores. I keep one underneath engine to catch any leaks as well. Also, safety glasses would be a good idea when dealing with automobile fluids, especially pressurized systems. Great videos. Keep up the good work.
Thats a really cool idea. Never thought of using those I bet they work really well.
I always wear the shop shades. There are all sorts of things going on that I don't need in my eyes...
Any info on your bonnet set up, how it opens up fully with the gas struts? Great videos, really helpful
Yup I actually did a video on that install! :-)
ua-cam.com/video/dxmPjFI2u6I/v-deo.html
How does the brake pressure check switch factor into this system. Is the purpose of that to indicate air in the lines? A video I watched at one point said to check that before each drive.
If the brakes are new in the front (with braided lines) I should expect a lot more bubbles right? I'm tempted to syringe prefill the caliper + line to avoid air lock (and or the amount of foot pumped bleeding. Was the order intentional (front first then rears?)
Hello.thanks for the videos ! It looks like you have less liquid going out from the rear break. Is it always like this ? I thought mine was damage because of that … thanks !!
I have never noticed a fluid volume difference between the front and the back. As long as your are able to get all the air out and your car stops properly I don't see any reason for concern. The main thing is the fluid can move inside the lines and there is no air.
Hi, is there a specific order which you have to follow when bleeding the brakes? Like closest wheel to the master cylinder first to the furthest? I keep hearing different ways... Thanks
There is indeed a specific order. It depends on whether your car is left or right hand drive. My newer video talks about it in detail link below.
Operation Bad Wolf[Ep 23] - Eezibleed Your Classic Mini's Brakes ua-cam.com/video/ajZDmZaIZNU/v-deo.html
Hi mate. You should really bleed the brakes furthest away from master cylinder and work back to nearest.
Thanks for the feedback. I have done it both ways with success over the years. What is the benefit of bleeding farthest away first?
To avoid bubbles in between :)
Mick Holgate thanks Mick Holgate
Hi! Can you post a video on how to replace the clutch slave cylinder on a Mini? Thanks mate!
Sure! I have a friend who needs a new one so I will film when I do his!
Yes you do, LOL
Thank you so much mate! 😌
South Africa uses DOT 4 aswell...
stick a vacuum pump and bottle on the nipple, crack the nipple, wait til no bubbles, shut nipple, done. one person required only! and yes, do furthest from master cylinder first.
Video was helpful i did the jobe but when i did the rear left drum it was leaking and the bleed nipple didn't screw. it was rolling. sould i took the repair kit and change it or i have to buy a new drum? check my channel i took the car for a ride just using the handbrake :P
Those nipples strip out pretty easily if they are over tightened so that might be whats going on. Maybe remove the nipple and take a look at the threads to confirm it's not stripped. If it is damaged you will just need to buy a new nipple. If the thread on the backplate is damaged you may have to replace more items.
ok mate thanks a lot i will check and i will reply again. Thank a lot!!
Love your vids. Very informative but please invest in a mic. Sometimes it's hard to hear you
Thank you for the feedback! I actually have a Rode VideoMic Pro that I use. I need to turn the sound up in post processing more it sounds like. I really appreciate the info and will make sure its louder in the future.
I used this method on brakes and clutches and you don't even need the pedal to the floor.
Got a cheap way of doing this. It involves a rubber tube and nothing else.
My brakes only bleed on one side on the front
Do you have a leak in your line somewhere allowing the fluid to exit the lines before reaching the bleed valve?
Classic Mini DIY Turbo Mini Tech, what it is, i had the pdwa valve on but had a modern master cylinder which had only one pipe coming from it so i assumed that the pipe feed went in to the valve and then fed the other three outlets (back and two front) but it was only bleeding the brake directly under the main feed from the master cylinder, this is because the pdwa valve works by taking two feeds from the master cylinder not one, and thats why i couldnt bleed the brake on the opposite side to the feed, so i could either get a later type master cylinder with two feeds or just a valve to split the single feed in to a double feed, problem solved my nigga!
Sweet! Glad you figured it out. I didn't know that was needed for later cars. Learn something new everyday!
If you pump and hold the pedal down the back drum brakes wont blead.
holy shit get to the point
But like what if instead, I talked about it a little bit more beforehand and then told you some more details?