Lathe Spider
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- This is a project to build 2 different Lathe Spiders: One Internal, One External.
Here is the link to the drawings:
www.dropbox.co...
Please Note: I am a beginning machinist and I do not pretend to know everything. Please always operate machinery in a safe manner and if you don't know, find a reliable source. DO NOT COPY ME. I make a lot of mistakes. I provide these videos for entertainment only.
Like warren maker mentionned. You take too many risk. first your RPM is too fast for the outside turning and same for the inside turning.
A manual lathe is and will never be like a CNC lathe. Spindle speed should be slower and feeds should be taken in consideration with the spindle speed and the DOC.
Please take the time to do the math before selecting the proper spindle speed and do the math for the feed vs the D.O.C. That way the chip breaker will always do it's job and you will have long lasting inserts on your tools.
Because one of these days you will have a bad surprise or a bad break.
Thanks for the advise. Comments are always appreciated. I have found that higher surface feet per minute (SFPM) rates often give a better surface finish. I rarely take anything like a deep depth of cut. I commonly take 0.025" or less. When I do take larger DOC's I usually slow the RPM's way down to compensate. I have historically done the cal'cs for proper SFPM rates and usually stay reasonably close to suggested values. I tend to stick with a small set of materials for most of my projects, eg. 303 stainless, 6061 aluminum, etc. I have played around with feeds and speeds quite a bit off camera and believe that I have gotten a reasonable feel for how the turning results work out for my tools and machine. By the way, it may not be apparent in the videos but I opted for the heavy version of my lathe which weighs something over 3300lbs. I do not get significant chatter or vibration all that often. I have a great track record thus far for not damaging my inserts. All but one or two are still on the original edges. Warren was dead on correct about handling the swarf. I have gone to great lengths to stop doing that, ever. I am by no means an expert or even terribly experienced in machining and always listen to others advise. So thanks for taking the time to share your comments.
I try to avoid being a Safety Nazi, but DUDE that is a TERRIBLY BAD HABIT! Your going to be called "STUBS" if you keep handling the swarf under rotation! The finish of a roughing cut is of NO consequence. Simply stop the feed momentarily to break the chip, pull it using long nose pliers and keep on. The final .010 or so finishing pass will create a continuous chip but, it will be light. KEEP YOUR DIGITS! REMEMBER YOU ARE TUGGING ON A LOOSE SPINNING MEAT-SAW BLADE!
This project produced a very clean looking lathe spider. Great Job! Please keep the videos coming!
Thanks for the great advise. In theses earlier videos, I tended to get too lax around aluminum swarf and thanks to viewers like yourself, I have actively changed my ways. I really appreciate viewers pointing out really bad behavior when they see it. When I started these videos, I only had a year and a half of adult school classes under my belt and that was very part time. I have continuously worked on improving my skills and a lot of it is due to people like you pointing out my often poor choices. Much appreciated.
Good video. My dad in the 1950's was polishing a steel roll at US Steel when his glove got caught in the role of steel and ground his pinky finger off. After that accident, they were not allowed to wear gloves anymore when polishing.
Yikes. That's a horrific story. I was wearing very thin nitrile gloves so they would easily tear off, but your point is well taken. Thanks.
An oldie but a goodie for me. About gloves, a very controversial issue. I often use 4 mil nitrile gloves. I have a problem with those fine needle like chips my mill throws off that get everywhere. My hands are a magnet for them and I often get several in my skin, where being so small, I can’t see them without my magnifying head unit. The gloves prevent that, as well as the usual cutting oils, etc. I use 4 mil because they tear at the very first opportunity when grabbed by anything. The chance of getting a finger, or hand caught because of them is pretty much zero, as they have almost no tensile strength. Anything stronger is a definite no no. I’ve seen several guys on UA-cam, over the years, who use regular mechanics gloves when on the mill or lathe, and tell people to shut up and not say anything about safety to them as this is what they do and they don’t want to hear it. I don’t watch these channels.
I like the perspective and agree, light weight Nitrile gloves pose little risk.
That first drill bit you used to start the hole.....What type is that . It looks weak but very shiny and sharp?
That is a nice lathe. Nothing more satisfying than watching the chips fly! Until they wrap around your job and create havoc!
I must say your surface finish looks great but that is why you buy a bigger lathe to begin with. Way more rigid. Keep up the good work.
Edit: I ask a question about your drill and you answer it about ten seconds later! Duh!
Thanks for the comments. Don't feel bad, I often find myself commenting on a video while watching and have had the same issue on more than one occasion. Thanks for taking the time...
Good lord... don't grab those sharp stands with the lathe running. 🤦
I appreciate the warning. You are not the first to make the point.
I am lazy when it comes to calculating speeds and feeds. It is way to easy to cheat now days! Download a machinist calculator and use it. They are free.
I have one, but as you say, am lazy. I will endeavor to pay more attention. I am sure my tool life and surface finishes will thank you. Thanks.
Hello there
Wow !! There are a lot of "teachers"out there from whom U can indeed take lessons. Just to add my two cents.....I never wore Gloves until I saw Tom Lipton (OxTool) with those MaxiFlex tight fitting ones. Ordered myself a Dozen and have not regretted it since, especially around Machinery, handles, tools etc. They are superb, safe and really protect the hands and fingers. Agreed U had a bad experience with large Leather Gloves. However, because of their Rubber-like Fingers and Palm, these actually allow U a better gripping force over metallic objects.
Bottom line, SAFETY is paramount and U can't Buy body parts. Look after what U have been "Gifted".
Regret and sorry to be trumpeting sounds-out what has already been mentioned below.
Stay safe
ATB
aRM
No problem. These early videos showed some stupid behavior and I am happy to be called out on it. No excuse. I needed to change and have. Thanks for pointing it out. Tom Lipton is one of my favorites and I have literally watched every video he has posted. He is amazing.
I like the idea of not having anything sticking out I will do the same on mine thanks good job
Thanks. This was one of my first projects and I still use it all of the time.
if you made it fit to the O/D of the spindle and held it on with brass tipped grub screws you wouldn't reduce the dia of bar you can use
Great suggestion, thanks.
when you were drilling I seen flexing of close to 1\4 inc or less of the part and the chuck maybe something is lose some were I use a 40 inc high def tv so you cant miss much I am saying only so you know so nothing gets recked
I have thought about that, especially with my failing eyesight. I can't count the times when I see something when editing a video, that I completely missed when I was performing the op. Thanks for the feedback.
The Canadian machinist right....I'm snidley whiplash....lol....I remember those cartoons
I remember them as well. I think I liked the play on words more than the cartoons as a kid.
I have a Taiwan Made garage lathe and was also surprised by the internal thread having a 16 pitch right hand thread. The threads also appeared to be truncated but they ended up fitting a 1.60” x 16 standard external thread.
That's and interesting bit of info. Apparently you lathe was aimed at an English unit market. Mine sort of was, but all of the hardware is still metric.
You should NOT be showing videos of you handling swarf cuttings whilst the lathe is running. Sooner or later one WILL hook around the rotating chuck and slice a finger or 2 off in an instant !! Our leading hand at work aged in his late sixties had 3 fingers missing from 2 accidents where he grabbed idle swarf and it got caught in the rotating chuck as he was removing it from the lathe. If you must touch swarf whilst the machine is running use a pair of 12" super long nose pliers. $9 from Grizzly
EXCELLENT ADVISE. I noticed the stupidity I was engaged in when I was editing the video, but decided to leave the content anyway. I absolutely agree with your opinion and have placed a pair of pliers on the lathe, just for this purpose. Internally, I rationalized this bad behavior by thinking that the swarf is only aluminum with light depth of cut so not very thick, but it only takes once. Thank you very much for the sage advise.
I'd also recommend some gloves and safety glasses while operating the lathe.
Thanks for the reply. I always wear safety glasses in the shop, but avoid long sleeves or gloves around any rotating machinery. I was drilling holes in steel a few years ago and was wearing gloves that were nitrile coated on the palm side, and there apparently were just a few little strings hanging out on the back and they somehow got yanked into the drill chuck which pulled the whole glove and fingers into the machine. The glove wrapped around the chuck and held the tips of my fingers until the motor stalled. Fortunately, the drill press is a small one and I was ok, but for me lesson learned. I am pretty sure the 5hp motor on my lathe would do a lot worse. I really get the temptation to wear gloves because it is hard to count the number of cuts and nicks I have gotten from sharp metal bits, but for me, I am more afraid of getting sucked into the machine. Thanks again for your input. It is always appreciated and my opinion is just that, mine.
Have you considered instead of threading the inner diameter of the tube, thread the outside. A shallow outer diameter thread would allow you to use the spider without sacrificing inner diameter clearance. Just a thought, novice lathe operator myself FWIW.
Thanks for the comment, they are always appreciated. I think you have a good idea except, I did not thread the spindle, it already had internal threads. I am not sure if there is enough clearance to get a die close enough to thread the outside of the spindle and it has a large metric diameter. Taking the spindle out to be threaded would be a major undertaking. Thanks for the idea though, I often get so focused on a single solution that I become blind to other options, often better ones.
Great little job. Looks a nice tool making lathe.
I have used it quite a few times and no issues so far. Thanks for the comment.
WTF dude..........slow it down!!!!!
Thanks for the comment. I have played around a lot with feeds and speeds on this lathe and usually higher speeds = better finish. This is not always the case, but often. If I take big cuts, say 0.250" depth of cut then I can get a decent finish with slow feeds (0.003" /rev) at 400 RPM and slower, but for small DOC's faster seems better. your are by no means the first person to comment on my high RPM choices, but I have never had a clear reason why I shouldn't use them other than the increased risk associated with higher energy cutting. I have also had more than a couple of conversations with the mechanical engineers at the carbide manufacturer's (ISCAR, Kennametal, and Sandvik) while researching cutting/coolant fluids and asked them about high RPM cutting and they saw no issues with it. I know my lath is not a CNC machine, but these cutters are designed to work at RPMs in excess of 20,000. If you can tell me why you dislike higher RPM's in turning operations, I am all ears. I am the last guy to claim to have all of the answers. I really appreciate you taking the time to share your thoughts, at a minimum it makes me revisit my own choices.
i know it has been a while, but have you checked out a cutting speed nomagram before? it is included in the engineers black book? It is a great resource for budding machinists and the nomagram is good for getting you in the ballpark for cutting speeds for most common materials.
looks a great result to me Dudley
Thanks. I appreciate the feedback.
deeper cut more heat snapping off ,heat and g force
Interesting, thanks.
You could also make a set of bushings out of uhmw.
I don't have any UHMW, nor have I ever used any. I think I should start. Thanks for the ideas.
Maybe you could take a look at a indicol . I use it every day in my shop . The old Tool Maker .
Fort Worth Texas
Thanks for the suggestion. I really appreciate it. I have a poor clone of this device and it still works. I never knew the name of the original, now I can look for it. Thanks.
great idea
Thanks