I bought myself one of those Sealey torch hats on your recommendation and have to say they are brilliant, nice bit of light and dont stick out too far from my head. The method I use for piston retraction is to use a large screwdriver between the outer pad and disc and simply lever it back before removing the caliper, nice and easy and it is guaranteed to push the piston back in evenly. For lubing the sliders I use copaslip or something similar. To answer the question, I prefer as much information as possible, I have been pratting about with cars for over 40 years now and still prefer the full step by step guides, I am about to change the cambelt on an 09 plate Fiesta and we all know how much 'fun' can be had removing of the crank pulley bolt, and of course the timing of the engine up, but even with my level of knowledge step by step is best which is why I like your videos, they appeal to somebody with very basic knowledge rather than a lot of the other people who simply seem to want to show people how clever they are without going into too much actual detail. Once again a nice easy to follow video on an every day job, well done.
I just love how you do things like the brakes. It’s how 90% of us lot do it. Socket stuck on the bolt? Twat it with the ratchet 👍. What’s the torque setting? Dunno, but that’s tight enough 👍. We all do it bud.
Something I do now with modern car calipers is open the bleed nipple when pushing the piston back. Master cylinders these days don't like having fluid forced back up the system, so opening the bleed nipple takes away the risk of damaging them.
Lift the car on the elevator,use all the axelstands you have..chock the wheels...pull the handbrake..turn off the engine..first gear... and maybe you''ll be safe...😁😁😁😁😁😁😁
Hi mate on video you said that the car was making a nasty knocking sound when you gave it some beans my car is doing the same did you do a video on this and what the problem was cheers
That oil under the engine looks like ATF Power Steering Fluid. Also what are your thoughts about a smear of copper slip grease on the back surface of the alloy wheels that touch the steel hubs, it prevents them corroding together.
Diesel Bushcraft putting copper grease on the hubs is possibly one of the best things you could do, will thank yourself when it comes to taking the wheel off again👍
Yeah done that for years but interesting to hear other people’s thoughts too. I have had people tell me the wheels don’t fit correctly but I personally haven’t had a problem.
Your attention to detail in your videos is why I subscribed. You've covered many basics, The engine rebuild on the Astra is your best work to date imo 👍👍
For that front end knocking noise, check the very front most exhaust hanger, right under the engine. I had the same issue with my car, knocking and banging when giving it the beans from a stop. Turns out it was the hanger had broken, letting the exhaust bang on the subframe. Worth a look at least.
Sometimes tyre and exhaust places do a bit of sabotage like detaching one of the rear exhaust suspension o rubber rings, hoping for more business later.
I’ve just bought a Focus. Thanks for this video, I appreciate it’s a year old and I’m not sure if you’ll still read the comments from an older video you’ve made but just wanted to say thanks. I enjoy your videos and spray painting videos have inspired me to give it a go also. Cheers. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🏴
James great video, great content. There's loads of videos on changing the rear engine and gearbox mounts, a cause of the Clonks, but no one that I know, has tackled the front anti roll bar bushes, without dropping the front subframe. I f you were very brave, changing these ,and pulled it off, it would grow your channel even further, and give you hero status! Great stuff mate
I'm one of those that like the more in depth vids... I'm growing my knowledge and have to say your videos have given me confidence to tackle more of the jobs on my car myself. You come across very well in a real and relatable way and with tools and an approach the average DIY driveway mechanic will have access to. Thank you for helping us amateurs improve 👍😁
I had a Focus for 3 years, the oil leak is most likely power steering fluid the Focus had a recall for a power steering pipe the rubber would get hot and split, the replacement is metal. I had the exact same knocking noise too and found it was the driver side engine mount can't remember the exact issue but again something to do with the rubber degrading.
I think most people enjoy watching these so they can learn how to maintain there own car, So in depth videos like this was brilliant... Love the channel, Keep up the good work bro! 🙂
Great video, good to see someone show a detailed method of brake replacement. Most garage just smash the job out without any care with the brakes being done properly. Those old pads looked like they were on a seized caliper. Cleaning up the sliders has probably sorted that out. One issue i have found in the past is that sometimes when compressing the piston back in it feels like abit of air gets past the seal. Not a bad idea to bleed abit of fluid through after to get any air out. Top work as always! You need to get yourself a Quickjack for your driveway work. See if they can sponsor you abit.
Love how to videos. That little clip or screw or spring that you don't know are their first time round! That's why I always watch a few "how to" videos, not bothered about music TBH, love commentary. All in all 5* video, between 10 and 25 mins is enough time as well if possible on most jobs. Keep it up. 👌👍
Super video, showing the caps for the caliper pins was a nice touch and always omitted, makes it easier to remove parts if you see how they attach. Everyone may know how to change pads but few know how to on every make, my visit was to see what a pain in the arse it was, that spring confirms my suspicions.
I always enjoy the extra detail. Also, your practical application of the skills so I can see how it is done int he real world. Really useful for people like me :) Keep up the good work!
I had the same issue with knocking/shuddering coming from the front of my car. Ford fiesta. It turned out to be the clutch slipping only happen when I gave it a little bit more throttle when pulling away. My cousin had a mk2 focus that did the same thing. It turned out to be an engine mount.
Nice work. I have a Volvo v50 (same chassis as mark 2 focus) I wonder if the knock you describe could be from the rear bush on the front wishbone. I replaced mine a while back as I was getting knocking when pulling away and sometimes under braking. A lot of the time they come as an entire wishbone assembly but you can get the bushes on their own. You will need to grind the inner part of the old ones off to remove from the wishbone though
Please give the details as not everyone is mechanical minded and people don't know socket /Allen key sizes by looking .the way in which you have done this video is very good.keep up the good work. As your dad will agree that it's great to see a young..man who is willing to get his hands dirty and not for big money either.
The black gunk on the pin/sliders is there because the last person to change the pads used copper grease, or other petroleum based grease which causes the rubber seals to swell allowing in dirt causing them to bind leading to uneven brake glaze/wear. the silicone grease will stop the seals from swelling and attracting the gunk.
Another thing to check on the calipers is the rubbers that the pins sit in will need taking out and the holes cleaning of corrosion. This builds up over time pressing on the rubbers and restricting the movement of the pins through the rubbers. You will see what I mean when you take them out, you will see lots of white powder. This is aluminium corrosion. I used a dremel with a barrel sanding bit, then coated inside of the holes with silicon grease.
Got the same car and the knocking when you pull away is 1 of 2 things, 1: The rear engine mount (simple and cheap DIY fix) or 2: It could be the centre exhaust mount that's rusted and snapped meaning you can either replace that part of the exhaust (expensive and a pain) or get it welded back up. I had to weld the bracket back on for mine last week, apparently it's a common problem with the MK2 focuses :(
Hiya mate you mentioned at the start of the video when pulling away there a weird knocking sound coming from drivers side when u out ur foot down did u find the cause of this as I have it on mine ?
Definitely go into detail :) I had a mk2.5 (2008 on facelift) it had a clunk sometimes on pull away and especially if you did a 3 point turn quickly. The Ford dealer reckoned (and I can only quote what they told me they did, 'cos I'm aware this may sound slightly "odd") you needed to loosen all the engine mounts, let the engine "settle" for a bit, then re-tighten. Whatever they did, It worked for my car, but I'm still wondering whether that was seriously what they did! I notice another comment saying it could be a "rear engine mount", so maybe it's not that crazy? p.s. you need to get a "jack stand stand" to put your jack stands on
I had discs on my Mondeo and Focus that were stuck onto the hub! A few sharp taps with a club hammer on the shoulder of the disc usually does the trick, and a thin smear of copper grease on the hub before the new disc goes on should stop it sticking on again. Also, if you are replacing discs and pads together, before you take the caliper pins out just use your big screwdriver between the disc and the pad to push the piston right back. Saves having to do it later or buying a rewind tool (you'll still need one if you've got rear discs though!)
I find it interesting to see how other people do things, so an in depth tutorial is always useful. When I do brakes, I usually suck out some of the fluid from the reservoir first to stop it overflowing using a plastic syringe ( the ones supplied with Calpol are brilliant ). Ford has always used 7mm allen keys for the brakes, I still have my original Draper one from 30 odd years ago when I had my MK3 Escort.
great tutorial,i got a focus 1.6 sport same colour as urs a few month ago,been doing a few jobs on it,love the car,enjoying watching ur focus vids its convinced me to get some discs and pads while i have a week off work cos mine have that ribby like look to them not smooth,keep up the good work
Thank you for putting your jacks on that subframe (2 would be fine lol), I was that guy last time and I'm glad you made the change. I feel like I can relax a little more watching your videos :) peace.
Did you put copper slip on the hub before putting the new brake disk on ? I always do this now after having to take hammers to the old disk to get it off on my old car.Just makes it easier to get them off if you ever have to do it again.
As always mate, another good video 👍 one tip, with threadlock always try and clean off the old stuff as It can prevent it adhering, in depth stuff keep it up 🤙
Check the exhaust for the knocking the hanger on the cat part of the exhaust can fail I have both failed on the system one near the cat and one on the rear pipe
Yes, more details with the vids mate. You never know, one extra detail you put in could be one missed by the last persons 'how to' we have watched. Great work!
Another helpful video James thanks alot. I prefur in depth videos but you haven't always had the day light to rely on but saying that the nights are drawing out now which is helpful. Longer videos lol, it's nice to see the focus again dude. Thanks to watching you I'm learning more and more about cars and you make it enjoyable to watch aswell thanks again keep up all your hard work 👍
Great video and I prefer the more in-depth explanation too. I've done quite a few different jobs on cars I've owned but have always been wary about doing brakes so never attempted it. You've given me the confidence to try this on my Focus ST now. Are rear brakes anymore complicated?
James this is the best vid you have done for so long it was informative and so easy to follow and reminded me of the vids you started posting so long ago top job pal keep up the fantastic work you do 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Just found this video before I do my own brakes. Seen you said about axel stands on the sib frames does that matter or can tjey go on by jacking points
James, I've done this very job on my Citroen and I've just uploaded my video. The Focus has almost identical front calipers to my C4 Grand Picasso. Mine has T55 Torx bolts for the caliper bracket instead of the 15mm bolts on the Focus but is esentially the same. I have a 7mm Allen brake pad key for use on those sort of caliper pins which makes the job a bit easier.
Maybe invest in a brake hose clamp, clamp the hose and open the bleed screw then squeeze the piston back. That way you are not forcing the nasty burnt fluid back up the line, you can also flip seals in the master cylinder if you force fluid back
If doing brakes on a modern car with the electric sensors then use ceratec non metallic to lubricate the channels, copper ease can give you false readings and cause sensor faults
Thanks for your advise on autobeam bulbs. I have ordered some for my Focus mk 2 pre facelift. I am having a bit of trouble getting a euro conversion rear reversing lamp (righthand side white lens) Any advise of where to get one ?
More detail is the way to go James because although we 'D.I.Y' guys know how-to in general it is the detail in your vids that sorts us out. Best wishes for 2021 stay safe. Leo in DUBLIN
All your videos are good although I do prefer the ones that go in to more detail. I'm patiently waiting for the cam belt to be done on the Mondeo, I'd like an in depth video on that if you have time. Great channel though, like your positive vibe.
Just recently had to do the gearbox seal on my mams mk7 fiesta, looks very similar to the setup on the focus on looks like your Leak is coming from that seal too
A previous owner of my focus st had fitted discs from a 1.6... smaller diameter so the pads were overhanging the edge. Some people should stay well away from brakes
What mileage has the car done I have a 2007 20l petrol and just done my oil change yesterday and brakes last week and yes the pins were a nightmare made sure they are lubricated with silicone brake grease
Such a good video if I didn’t already know how to do them, this video would of helped so much, you should do the shoes on the back I struggled on my focus but was my first time doing them
All your content is good! Don't let the know alls get to you lol. Now my tip, I Use a syringe to empty the the old brake fluid out of the reservoir and then replace with fresh stuff. It seems that the ABS in modern cars doesn't like old fluid.
Never seen the point of locktite on brake bolts. If they are tightened enough they should not come undone. Also i put some oil on the hub to keep the rust at bay; dont use grease or copper grease as its need perfect contact with the disc. Also with the disc, buy one with a long warentee (eg 5 years); then if it warps within the warentee period you can get another free. Avoid no brand discs; they warp really quickly! Silicon grease is the way to go (water repellent; grease does not thicken when it gets mixed with water). Spring: push it at the V point for easy fitting. Brakes should be bled; the fluid deteriots at the piston end (blackens) and also gets air in it so always good to bleed brakes to fix both of these issues and ensure good braking.
That blue goo on one side of bolt threads is not a classic thread locker. It is a nylon patch - it serves the same purpose as a liquid thread locker, but does not need curing and is reusable until stripped off or badly damaged. No need to remove it and reapply a liquid thread locker.
James, please keep the videos detailed. Many of us watch your videos so that we can attempt similar repairs or maintenance. Reminds me of why Edd China left Wheeler Dealers, because the producers decided to remove from the show the detailed fix sections he used to do. To be fair, the new Wheeler Dealer's mechanic Ant does do some good step by step fixes, just not as many as Edd used to. I know a lot of people who stopped watching WD when Edd left, so don't let that happen to your channel! I also agree with some other comments, that your camera seemed to have much more trouble focusing than usual? Maybe just the lack of light? Keep up the good work, my Fiesta mk4 would be at the scrappy by now if it wasn't for your videos!
Possibly no one is going to read this, however I will still post; easiest way to retract the piston is to lever it in with the bleed nipple open and expel the dirty fluid into a jar. I would always bleed the brakes as an axle set after changing the pads. Also completely flush fresh fluid through the system from the master cylinder every 2/3 years. I wouldn't leave the master cylinder cap off because brake fluid is hydroscopic. You might have touched on examining the pads for uneven wear indicating seized floating callipers.
dude after some advice..... my 58 focus 2ltr titanium diesel seems to loose power for microseconds when doing about 70mph and then all of a sudden i get a huge amount of power in the accelaration. many people said different things but been told its probs the fuel filter. wat ya reckon. any help appreciated
This happened to me my discs warped on the front i spoke to a ford mechanic he told me that if your braking it heats the discs if u keep your foot on the brakes after you have stopped it can cause warping thats what the handbrake is for since adopting this method ive not suffered it since.. just saying
Nice to see it back! My power steering pump is leaking and mine's on 120k, apparently they're known for it so could be that. The colour is red too. the knocking noise could be the exhaust rubbing on the bottom of the car.
Which ratchet did you use to take wheel nuts off? Your snap on or the clarke one? Looking at buying the clarke long half inch flex head. Can't afford snap on gear.
I think a mix between the two, I guess getting the right balance will be difficult as some are more experienced then others. Theres a million things that are done wrong or right, again it's getting the balance where everyone is happy which unfortunately your not going to achieve, correct procedure, torque settings, axle stand locations, taking the master cylinder fluid receiver cap off when pushing the piston back so it doesn't damage your master cylinder seals, bright/dumb balance ect ect....... I think your doing a good job trying to reach the wider audience with good hints and tips. Maybe of extra content in your description to keep others happy. Oh and just lately I find your camera is finding it difficult to focus, maybe play with the settings.
In depth tutorial videos are much better than the shorter versions
I bought myself one of those Sealey torch hats on your recommendation and have to say they are brilliant, nice bit of light and dont stick out too far from my head.
The method I use for piston retraction is to use a large screwdriver between the outer pad and disc and simply lever it back before removing the caliper, nice and easy and it is guaranteed to push the piston back in evenly.
For lubing the sliders I use copaslip or something similar.
To answer the question, I prefer as much information as possible, I have been pratting about with cars for over 40 years now and still prefer the full step by step guides, I am about to change the cambelt on an 09 plate Fiesta and we all know how much 'fun' can be had removing of the crank pulley bolt, and of course the timing of the engine up, but even with my level of knowledge step by step is best which is why I like your videos, they appeal to somebody with very basic knowledge rather than a lot of the other people who simply seem to want to show people how clever they are without going into too much actual detail.
Once again a nice easy to follow video on an every day job, well done.
I just love how you do things like the brakes. It’s how 90% of us lot do it. Socket stuck on the bolt? Twat it with the ratchet 👍. What’s the torque setting? Dunno, but that’s tight enough 👍. We all do it bud.
The oil underneath looks like power steering fluid, which would explain your power steering issue......
Its brake fluid 😂@tom wide
@@deckmatto2891 if youre putting power steering fluid in your brakes, your doing something wrong. It's red.
@tom wide its brake fluid num cuunt cant you see it driping down down the engine bay on to the floor some people 😂😂😂
@@deckmatto2891 if you can't talk like an adult, I'm sorry I aren't interested.
Its brake fluid
Something I do now with modern car calipers is open the bleed nipple when pushing the piston back. Master cylinders these days don't like having fluid forced back up the system, so opening the bleed nipple takes away the risk of damaging them.
You could have at least added 1 more jack stand just to be safe lol.
And the fire rescue service standing by.
And a ratchet strap from the rear towing eye to the gate post just in case, you can"t be too careful!!!!!!
@@marklittler784 Yeah and he could have put the tyres under the car as well :D
and chock the wheels :)
Lift the car on the elevator,use all the axelstands you have..chock the wheels...pull the handbrake..turn off the engine..first gear... and maybe you''ll be safe...😁😁😁😁😁😁😁
Hi mate on video you said that the car was making a nasty knocking sound when you gave it some beans my car is doing the same did you do a video on this and what the problem was cheers
That oil under the engine looks like ATF Power Steering Fluid.
Also what are your thoughts about a smear of copper slip grease on the back surface of the alloy wheels that touch the steel hubs, it prevents them corroding together.
Diesel Bushcraft putting copper grease on the hubs is possibly one of the best things you could do, will thank yourself when it comes to taking the wheel off again👍
@@robbie2025 robbie is 100% right
Yeah done that for years but interesting to hear other people’s thoughts too. I have had people tell me the wheels don’t fit correctly but I personally haven’t had a problem.
Yeah I do this too. 👍
Really enjoyed this! Didn’t even know about Alan keys skipping sizes, or even how much a break piston rewind kit is!! More of this please James!!
I prefer you going in detail, since I'm one of those who hasn't worked on cars at all. :)
Your attention to detail in your videos is why I subscribed.
You've covered many basics,
The engine rebuild on the Astra is your best work to date imo 👍👍
Yes mate I much prefer these in depth videos, especially considering I have a mk2 Focus myself. Keep the videos coming!
For that front end knocking noise, check the very front most exhaust hanger, right under the engine. I had the same issue with my car, knocking and banging when giving it the beans from a stop. Turns out it was the hanger had broken, letting the exhaust bang on the subframe. Worth a look at least.
Sometimes tyre and exhaust places do a bit of sabotage like detaching one of the rear exhaust suspension o rubber rings, hoping for more business later.
Absolutely fabulous James, I Done my disks and pads recently after 4 years and the breaks respond a lot better now.
I’ve just bought a Focus. Thanks for this video, I appreciate it’s a year old and I’m not sure if you’ll still read the comments from an older video you’ve made but just wanted to say thanks. I enjoy your videos and spray painting videos have inspired me to give it a go also. Cheers. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🏴
James great video, great content. There's loads of videos on changing the rear engine and gearbox mounts, a cause of the Clonks, but no one that I know, has tackled the front anti roll bar bushes, without dropping the front subframe. I f you were very brave, changing these ,and pulled it off, it would grow your channel even further, and give you hero status! Great stuff mate
Same set up on my 06 volvo s40, I used a brake grease called ceretec, on reassembly. Real easy job for home diy mechanic. Great videos.
Thought you had a red vauxhall combo pat phelan?
Learnt more from you in the past 10 months well done mate. And yes keep em detailed specially when you do anything on the astra. 😁
I'm one of those that like the more in depth vids... I'm growing my knowledge and have to say your videos have given me confidence to tackle more of the jobs on my car myself. You come across very well in a real and relatable way and with tools and an approach the average DIY driveway mechanic will have access to.
Thank you for helping us amateurs improve 👍😁
I had a Focus for 3 years, the oil leak is most likely power steering fluid the Focus had a recall for a power steering pipe the rubber would get hot and split, the replacement is metal.
I had the exact same knocking noise too and found it was the driver side engine mount can't remember the exact issue but again something to do with the rubber degrading.
I think most people enjoy watching these so they can learn how to maintain there own car, So in depth videos like this was brilliant... Love the channel, Keep up the good work bro! 🙂
Great video, good to see someone show a detailed method of brake replacement. Most garage just smash the job out without any care with the brakes being done properly. Those old pads looked like they were on a seized caliper. Cleaning up the sliders has probably sorted that out. One issue i have found in the past is that sometimes when compressing the piston back in it feels like abit of air gets past the seal. Not a bad idea to bleed abit of fluid through after to get any air out. Top work as always! You need to get yourself a Quickjack for your driveway work. See if they can sponsor you abit.
Love how to videos. That little clip or screw or spring that you don't know are their first time round! That's why I always watch a few "how to" videos, not bothered about music TBH, love commentary. All in all 5* video, between 10 and 25 mins is enough time as well if possible on most jobs. Keep it up. 👌👍
Great video...great to see the channel growing, iam guessing most of us would prefer the indepth how to video.
Super video, showing the caps for the caliper pins was a nice touch and always omitted, makes it easier to remove parts if you see how they attach.
Everyone may know how to change pads but few know how to on every make, my visit was to see what a pain in the arse it was, that spring confirms my suspicions.
I always enjoy the extra detail. Also, your practical application of the skills so I can see how it is done int he real world. Really useful for people like me :) Keep up the good work!
I had the same issue with knocking/shuddering coming from the front of my car. Ford fiesta. It turned out to be the clutch slipping only happen when I gave it a little bit more throttle when pulling away. My cousin had a mk2 focus that did the same thing. It turned out to be an engine mount.
Nice work. I have a Volvo v50 (same chassis as mark 2 focus) I wonder if the knock you describe could be from the rear bush on the front wishbone. I replaced mine a while back as I was getting knocking when pulling away and sometimes under braking. A lot of the time they come as an entire wishbone assembly but you can get the bushes on their own. You will need to grind the inner part of the old ones off to remove from the wishbone though
Please give the details as not everyone is mechanical minded and people don't know socket /Allen key sizes by looking .the way in which you have done this video is very good.keep up the good work. As your dad will agree that it's great to see a young..man who is willing to get his hands dirty and not for big money either.
The knocking noise will likely be the exhaust in the centre. The mount brackets break off so commonly
Exactly. I had the same issue until i decided to weld that bracket and fix it. No more clunking
The black gunk on the pin/sliders is there because the last person to change the pads used copper grease, or other petroleum based grease which causes the rubber seals to swell allowing in dirt causing them to bind leading to uneven brake glaze/wear. the silicone grease will stop the seals from swelling and attracting the gunk.
Another thing to check on the calipers is the rubbers that the pins sit in will need taking out and the holes cleaning of corrosion. This builds up over time pressing on the rubbers and restricting the movement of the pins through the rubbers. You will see what I mean when you take them out, you will see lots of white powder. This is aluminium corrosion. I used a dremel with a barrel sanding bit, then coated inside of the holes with silicon grease.
DETAIL!! Lots of us are here purely to learn. Love the videos, keep it up 👍🏼
Got the same car and the knocking when you pull away is 1 of 2 things, 1: The rear engine mount (simple and cheap DIY fix) or 2: It could be the centre exhaust mount that's rusted and snapped meaning you can either replace that part of the exhaust (expensive and a pain) or get it welded back up.
I had to weld the bracket back on for mine last week, apparently it's a common problem with the MK2 focuses :(
Extra detail is always good.
What about bleeding the brakes to get any air out and to get fresh brake fluid in the lines?
Hiya mate you mentioned at the start of the video when pulling away there a weird knocking sound coming from drivers side when u out ur foot down did u find the cause of this as I have it on mine ?
Definitely go into detail :)
I had a mk2.5 (2008 on facelift) it had a clunk sometimes on pull away and especially if you did a 3 point turn quickly. The Ford dealer reckoned (and I can only quote what they told me they did, 'cos I'm aware this may sound slightly "odd") you needed to loosen all the engine mounts, let the engine "settle" for a bit, then re-tighten. Whatever they did, It worked for my car, but I'm still wondering whether that was seriously what they did! I notice another comment saying it could be a "rear engine mount", so maybe it's not that crazy?
p.s. you need to get a "jack stand stand" to put your jack stands on
Thank you SO much. This helped me tons. Really appreciate the depth and for me who never has done somthing like this before this was gold.
I had discs on my Mondeo and Focus that were stuck onto the hub! A few sharp taps with a club hammer on the shoulder of the disc usually does the trick, and a thin smear of copper grease on the hub before the new disc goes on should stop it sticking on again.
Also, if you are replacing discs and pads together, before you take the caliper pins out just use your big screwdriver between the disc and the pad to push the piston right back. Saves having to do it later or buying a rewind tool (you'll still need one if you've got rear discs though!)
I find it interesting to see how other people do things, so an in depth tutorial is always useful. When I do brakes, I usually suck out some of the fluid from the reservoir first to stop it overflowing using a plastic syringe ( the ones supplied with Calpol are brilliant ). Ford has always used 7mm allen keys for the brakes, I still have my original Draper one from 30 odd years ago when I had my MK3 Escort.
great tutorial,i got a focus 1.6 sport same colour as urs a few month ago,been doing a few jobs on it,love the car,enjoying watching ur focus vids its convinced me to get some discs and pads while i have a week off work cos mine have that ribby like look to them not smooth,keep up the good work
Can you do a video on solving that clunking noise as I have the same problem 🙏🏼
Thank you for putting your jacks on that subframe (2 would be fine lol), I was that guy last time and I'm glad you made the change. I feel like I can relax a little more watching your videos :) peace.
Did you put copper slip on the hub before putting the new brake disk on ? I always do this now after having to take hammers to the old disk to get it off on my old car.Just makes it easier to get them off if you ever have to do it again.
As always mate, another good video 👍 one tip, with threadlock always try and clean off the old stuff as It can prevent it adhering, in depth stuff keep it up 🤙
I like the step by step video's. You break it down and explain it really well. Either way your vids are top 👌
Awesome to see the Focus make a return, but we all move onto other things (ie. Mondeo) ... whats happening with the Fiesta James?
This guy wears better clothes for working on cars in than I do going out socialising 🤨😂
Love how in depth this video was I’m scared to do brakes but think I might give it a go now! Thanks 🤙🏻🤙🏻
In depth videos for me I like to know the ins and outs and what size sockets to use and that it helps
Check the exhaust for the knocking the hanger on the cat part of the exhaust can fail I have both failed on the system one near the cat and one on the rear pipe
Yes, more details with the vids mate. You never know, one extra detail you put in could be one missed by the last persons 'how to' we have watched. Great work!
Another helpful video James thanks alot. I prefur in depth videos but you haven't always had the day light to rely on but saying that the nights are drawing out now which is helpful. Longer videos lol, it's nice to see the focus again dude. Thanks to watching you I'm learning more and more about cars and you make it enjoyable to watch aswell thanks again keep up all your hard work 👍
Great video I no u probably stopped working on this car but it would of bin gd if u did the rear brake disc conversion to get rid of the drum brakes
Great video and I prefer the more in-depth explanation too.
I've done quite a few different jobs on cars I've owned but have always been wary about doing brakes so never attempted it. You've given me the confidence to try this on my Focus ST now. Are rear brakes anymore complicated?
James this is the best vid you have done for so long it was informative and so easy to follow and reminded me of the vids you started posting so long ago top job pal keep up the fantastic work you do 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for sharing how to do the focus front pads and disc, cheers
Just found this video before I do my own brakes. Seen you said about axel stands on the sib frames does that matter or can tjey go on by jacking points
I enjoy the long videos, and I enjoy it when you give tips as I am learning car maintenance in college
James, I've done this very job on my Citroen and I've just uploaded my video. The Focus has almost identical front calipers to my C4 Grand Picasso. Mine has T55 Torx bolts for the caliper bracket instead of the 15mm bolts on the Focus but is esentially the same. I have a 7mm Allen brake pad key for use on those sort of caliper pins which makes the job a bit easier.
How do you find what brake size for disc and pads you need, I have an Audi A3 but don’t know how to pick out the brakes for my car
Maybe invest in a brake hose clamp, clamp the hose and open the bleed screw then squeeze the piston back.
That way you are not forcing the nasty burnt fluid back up the line, you can also flip seals in the master cylinder if you force fluid back
Very informative,and will give folk the confidence to have a go themselves, great video.
If doing brakes on a modern car with the electric sensors then use ceratec non metallic to lubricate the channels, copper ease can give you false readings and cause sensor faults
Thanks for your advise on autobeam bulbs. I have ordered some for my Focus mk 2 pre facelift. I am having a bit of trouble getting a euro conversion rear reversing lamp (righthand side white lens) Any advise of where to get one ?
More detail is the way to go James because although we 'D.I.Y' guys know how-to in general
it is the detail in your vids that sorts us out.
Best wishes for 2021 stay safe. Leo in DUBLIN
All your videos are good although I do prefer the ones that go in to more detail. I'm patiently waiting for the cam belt to be done on the Mondeo, I'd like an in depth video on that if you have time. Great channel though, like your positive vibe.
Loads of detail, it’s the little detail that causes hold ups, frustration and tool throwing. How is the Corsa 1.8, did you ever do a test run video?
Just recently had to do the gearbox seal on my mams mk7 fiesta, looks very similar to the setup on the focus on looks like your Leak is coming from that seal too
New to channel, only because you work on the ford focus. I have a 2007 ford focus ghia, can you tell me how to access the air intake.
Thanks.
A previous owner of my focus st had fitted discs from a 1.6... smaller diameter so the pads were overhanging the edge. Some people should stay well away from brakes
Yeah mate in-depth tutorial, it was because of your old video I get in to doing work on my Corsa, which I still go back and have a look at 👍👍
I would prefer more details. More of "how u do it" :) Great videos. Greetings from Romania ;)
Love the video,have you done one on replacing the cam belt and water pump etc.
Hi mate when you pump the brake pedal after you change them do you pump them with the brake fluid cap on or off ?
I prefer in depth tutorial videos because I feel like im learning something while watching your vids and gives me confidence to maybe try it myself :)
What mileage has the car done I have a 2007 20l petrol and just done my oil change yesterday and brakes last week and yes the pins were a nightmare made sure they are lubricated with silicone brake grease
Such a good video if I didn’t already know how to do them, this video would of helped so much, you should do the shoes on the back I struggled on my focus but was my first time doing them
All your content is good! Don't let the know alls get to you lol. Now my tip, I Use a syringe to empty the the old brake fluid out of the reservoir and then replace with fresh stuff. It seems that the ABS in modern cars doesn't like old fluid.
Never seen the point of locktite on brake bolts. If they are tightened enough they should not come undone. Also i put some oil on the hub to keep the rust at bay; dont use grease or copper grease as its need perfect contact with the disc. Also with the disc, buy one with a long warentee (eg 5 years); then if it warps within the warentee period you can get another free. Avoid no brand discs; they warp really quickly! Silicon grease is the way to go (water repellent; grease does not thicken when it gets mixed with water). Spring: push it at the V point for easy fitting. Brakes should be bled; the fluid deteriots at the piston end (blackens) and also gets air in it so always good to bleed brakes to fix both of these issues and ensure good braking.
That blue goo on one side of bolt threads is not a classic thread locker. It is a nylon patch - it serves the same purpose as a liquid thread locker, but does not need curing and is reusable until stripped off or badly damaged. No need to remove it and reapply a liquid thread locker.
Some cars have a pressure switch on the power steering pump,that maybe causing your issue that you were talking about at the beginning of the video
James, please keep the videos detailed. Many of us watch your videos so that we can attempt similar repairs or maintenance. Reminds me of why Edd China left Wheeler Dealers, because the producers decided to remove from the show the detailed fix sections he used to do. To be fair, the new Wheeler Dealer's mechanic Ant does do some good step by step fixes, just not as many as Edd used to. I know a lot of people who stopped watching WD when Edd left, so don't let that happen to your channel! I also agree with some other comments, that your camera seemed to have much more trouble focusing than usual? Maybe just the lack of light? Keep up the good work, my Fiesta mk4 would be at the scrappy by now if it wasn't for your videos!
Possibly no one is going to read this, however I will still post; easiest way to retract the piston is to lever it in with the bleed nipple open and expel the dirty fluid into a jar. I would always bleed the brakes as an axle set after changing the pads. Also completely flush fresh fluid through the system from the master cylinder every 2/3 years. I wouldn't leave the master cylinder cap off because brake fluid is hydroscopic.
You might have touched on examining the pads for uneven wear indicating seized floating callipers.
The torque for the guide pins is 21 ft/lbs and the caliper bracket bolts should be tightened to 75 ft/lbs. If this helps ?
in depth vid are great I'm no mechanic so it helps might attempt this myself on my mondeo many thanks
Good video 👌🏻
Would like to see how you upgraded the radio if you have a video.
Good video, mate! I like the step by step instructional approach personally!
I also have to say, you did a great job of safely supporting the car!!😂
For cleaning the hub where you used the scotchbrite pads you should get some small round wire brush’s that fit in a drill, they work a treat.
Love the in depth description ! I have a focus mk2 also and this video has really helped. I'd love to see it in future videos
on my focus zetec 57 plate you can change the steering wheel settings turn the ignition on and go threw the cluster screen
In-depth is good for tip and tricks love the videos dude keep up the good work. I liked the fiesta videos so much I've decided to buy one 👍👍👍
dude after some advice..... my 58 focus 2ltr titanium diesel seems to loose power for microseconds when doing about 70mph and then all of a sudden i get a huge amount of power in the accelaration. many people said different things but been told its probs the fuel filter. wat ya reckon. any help appreciated
This happened to me my discs warped on the front i spoke to a ford mechanic he told me that if your braking it heats the discs if u keep your foot on the brakes after you have stopped it can cause warping thats what the handbrake is for since adopting this method ive not suffered it since.. just saying
Believe hot discs being hit by water from deep puddles can cause warping.
Nice to see it back! My power steering pump is leaking and mine's on 120k, apparently they're known for it so could be that. The colour is red too. the knocking noise could be the exhaust rubbing on the bottom of the car.
Which ratchet did you use to take wheel nuts off? Your snap on or the clarke one? Looking at buying the clarke long half inch flex head. Can't afford snap on gear.
I'm a novice at this and the full detailed description was most useful. Cheers
Random but does anybody know what the small circular amber light is for beside the Rev counter there’s also a red one opposite it ?
Quick question mate do you have to bleed the brakes.
I think a mix between the two, I guess getting the right balance will be difficult as some are more experienced then others.
Theres a million things that are done wrong or right, again it's getting the balance where everyone is happy which unfortunately your not going to achieve, correct procedure, torque settings, axle stand locations, taking the master cylinder fluid receiver cap off when pushing the piston back so it doesn't damage your master cylinder seals, bright/dumb balance ect ect.......
I think your doing a good job trying to reach the wider audience with good hints and tips.
Maybe of extra content in your description to keep others happy.
Oh and just lately I find your camera is finding it difficult to focus, maybe play with the settings.