Thank you all for the very warm response! A few things I wanted to add and correct myself on: - On NTSC, ASM and TCS are always enabled in time trials, even if you turn it off from the options menu. I still think NTSC is easier though, as having assists enabled makes the banked corner section of Complex String much less risky. The time you'd lose from ASM slowing your car down doesn't outweigh the extra 3 seconds of leniency in my opinion. - The nightly version of PCSX2 lets you run de-interlacing patches for GT3, making the graphics much sharper and clearer if you enable "Apply No-Interlacing Patches" in the graphics menu. The patches can be found here, just drag the pnach files into the "patches" folder in PCSX2's data directory: github.com/xan1242/GT3NoInterlace/releases/tag/1.0 - GT3 has recently received a RetroAchievements set developed by suXin, which tracks your progress on PCSX2 and awards achievements for reaching milestones and beating challenges. If playing on Hardcore Mode (which disables save states and slowdown), you can also compete against other players on the leaderboards for time trials and licence tests. I highly recommend setting it up if you're playing GT3 on emulator. - Small typo at 6:34, I meant "200km / 126 miles". Just to clarify, there is a 100km / 63 mile period where the 5% power boost from fresh oil will slowly wear off. The oil light won't come on until it's completely worn off. By changing the oil every 200km / 126 miles, you avoid this wear-off period from happening. - Since making this video, I've added a bunch of new sub-routes to the handbook, particularly for the Buy a Miata and B Licence All Golds routes. If you're looking for some guidance and/or inspiration for your own playthrough, check them out. You'll find event routes, parts lists and tunes for cars like the Corvette Z06, Lancer Evo VI GSR T.M.E. and Impreza WRX STi. I plan to make a follow-up video to demonstrate these sub-routes in the near-future. - The 16,900 Miata is actually the '93 model, while the 17,000 one is the '89 model. I didn't realize that the NTSC descriptions in the dealership show the difference between the two. I assumed that they were in chronological order and that the first one was the older model. The '93 model is still eligible for 80's Sports Car Cup events, so it doesn't change the route or anything, of course, just wanted to clear that up. - I spent the entire guide calling Test Course "Test Track" for some reason. Apparently my mind was in Epcot while writing the script. Also misspelled "amateur" in one or two places. - The sports/semi-racing damper settings affect both the bound and rebound for each side. For example, a rear bias will increase turn-in oversteer and corner exit understeer. Set a bias if you want the car to feel more balanced in corners. - The fully-tuned AE86 in the Trade Trick Trueno route has much better handling if you set the ride height to 150 / 99. Set the dampers to 2 / 8 bound + rebound and LSD Decrease to 5 to make the car easier to turn into corners. Camber can be safely reduced to 2.2 / 3.0 and the rear toe can be removed. Full tune in the handbook. - Instead of buying sports suspension, port polish and weight reduction stage 2 for the NB Miata in the B Licence route, get the semi-racing suspension, then set the ride height to 130 / 100, dampers to 4 / 6, camber to 2.2 / 2.4 and stabilisers to 4 / 4. Not only does it save money, the car should handle much better too, as the car will be more rear-heavy while also having tighter handling due to decreased body roll. - I said that a rear spring rate bias can induce oversteer in 4WD's; it's much more complex than that. Stiffening the springs will decrease body roll, which will induce understeer in FF's and 4WD's. Setting them loose can make the car turn more easily at the cost of instability. For the best turning ability, I've had success with the softest springs possible, 2 / 2 damper bounds and 1.4 / 1.4 camber. I then use the rear LSD to stabilise the car if it loses control entering corners. - About setting the rear ride height higher than the front, my wording was a bit poor. The game treats it like you're moving the car's center of gravity forward, improving stability on corner entry but also making the car more difficult to turn. Unlike GT2 and GT4, ride height biases don't seem to affect braking distances. The 'ride height trick' from GT2 was also removed. - Setting the front ride height higher than the rear can massively improve corner exit traction in powerful FR race cars. With the center of gravity moved towards the back, rear wheel traction is improved, and the car also turns more easily. I'm currently re-tuning many race cars in the handbook to use front height biases. Try setting the height of the Supra JGTC to 100 / 50. - The VCD controller raises the drivetrain inertia for almost all 4WD's when equipped, reducing acceleration at high speeds. I strongly suggest unequipping it if using the car on high-speed tracks or Test Course. The only exceptions to this are the Lancer Evo VI and VII RS. It also converts the car into a ‘generic’ 4WD: the TT will turn from a 'FF' into a proper 4WD, removing all wheelspin and power understeer. Meanwhile, on Skyline GT-R’s, the controller will induce understeer and make the car more difficult to turn. - NTSC-J doesn't randomize event prize cars the same way as NTSC-U and PAL. In Western releases, if you save state before the prize car screen, the car will be different each time. On NTSC-J, however, the prize car won't change when you do this. You need to manipulate the RNG by saving and resetting the game before entering the last race of a championship or endurance, then going into the options menu a certain amount of times before obtaining the prize car. See this page for more info: miyakoshi.mydns.jp/gt3/precarget.html Everything else should be covered in the handbook, but I'll add more here if anything comes to mind. Link to the handbook: docs.google.com/document/d/1dSzM7tQb2Fgue8zN-OY_ndimyHin9X-WQtq9BQul6AM/edit?usp=sharing
Hey, just to let you know, your website looks like it's down right now. I was also looking for a handbook for GT1 and 2 if you made one, I love your videos but having to rewind every time to check something isn't exactly practical.
@@Vas0sky Hi there, hmm, which URL did you click on? The one in the pinned comment and in the description works fine for me, maybe Google Docs was temporarily down or something. I've been working on text guides for GT1 and GT2 yeah, expect an announcement on those shortly. Glad you enjoy the videos!
if you found a way to publish a nice physical copy of your handbook with illustrations and a nice front page, I'd buy it instantly even if the price is high
This was my favorite game for years. I remember winning the final endurance race on my birthday, and my sister bought me GT6 later that day😢 Good memories.
Am ending to an era and the start of new times.. lovely that you had your sister in that memory on your birthday. "Don't cry because it ended, smile because it happened" 😊
You can see that this is a result of a lot of loving work from the first seconds of the video. It's heartwarming, this is such a great game. Thanks man, all the best with your future work!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the intro. As a kid, I always loved watching the Viper GTS-R driving around in the intro, and I wanted to try recreating that magic with a more nostalgic tone, while also showing how huge of a leap the graphics were from 2 to 3.
I’ve played GT3 since it first released and I never ever knew about engine break in or engine wear that’s amazing how I find new and new things about this game great video btw
Immediately paused at 37:50 to take a pic to use in future lol. Thanks for coming through as always with that thorough, detailed, and somehow still digestible info as always, bud!
One note for this and GT4; when I emulate them (playing with a Dualshock 4) I like to map throttle and brake to L2/R2 (or whatever the equivalent triggers are); you can tweak the deadzones in your emu's settings and have pressure sensitivity without the awkwardness of using a stick as throttle. Love the guides btw, plan on trying to replay GT2 with the last one you put out!
this was my childhood game and i found an interesting route: you can get a rally car by getting all golds or when you saved up the money and do all the rallying. after that you get the escudo and can basically win almost everything with it or you can get an mx5 and do the endurance race. with a 25% chance you get a f1 car (or you will get trolled with another mx5) and some decent money
GT3 was the first game I ever owned. I had inadvertently used the 'gear trick' as a kid to lengthen gears but had no knowledge of how to use it properly. I was aware of the oil change modifier but had no idea about the engine break-in and wear mechanics! Wonder why these are seemingly absent from GT4, they add depth to the game IMO. This guide helped me appreciate car setups and how it can make or break drivability. Thank you for putting the effort into making it accessible and using practical examples to explain how tuning changes affect car handling. Looking forward to more guides!
Thank you! Yeah, I had no idea about engine break-in or engine wear either until I started doing research for this guide. They removed engine break-in in 4, but engine wear still applies after 800km / 504 miles. It means that all used cars will have worn engines (plus reduced rigidity), except the rare 10km mileage ones. I guess they added engine break-in in 3 so prize cars would be more desirable, but they never actually explained it anywhere so most people don't know about it. Glad the guide was able to help!
@@shanebundy2855 Likely so yeah. I have a B licence starting route planned out, and I think I have an idea of how the guide will be structured. The main thing I want to figure out is A-spec and B-spec points, since I think it's interesting how much strategy goes into 200 A-spec points in every race. The fastest process of levelling up your B-spec driver is pretty insane as well. Other than that, need to figure out tuning stuff and how much rigidity upgrades can affect the car.
Out of every mainline GT title, GT3 is the one that i never managed to get that far in the career mode. I've beaten several beginners event, the Roadster endurance race and finished all of the license including golding the B license but otherwise, i was pretty much stuck. I learned quite a lot from your guide. Thank you so much
Thank you! I never thought about that, but I hear where you're coming from; KH2 was another huge childhood game for me. Some trivia about the remix: I made two different versions, one with a drum beat and the other with a Rhodes e-piano. I went with the latter since it fit the tone of the intro a lot better. My main reference was Keane's cover of U2's With or Without You, the Rhodes on that song is beautiful and I wanted to capture the same vibe. I was also listening to Nightdriver's Lullaby by Lauren Estes a lot at the time and it ended up sounding very similar to that. I realized after I made the track though that I accidentally made it sound like Britney Spears's Everytime, oops. Still trying to figure out how I'll remix Moon Over The Castle and/or Reason is Treason for my GT4 guide when that comes out. That's going to be a task and a half.
@@TeaKanji whichever way you choose to go for the remix, you're gonna crush it i heard the My Favourite Game remix from your GT2 guide as well. that was also REALLY good.
Ah, glad you liked that one as well! I guess I'll probably end up doing something orchestral again, will decide when the time comes. Hopefully it won't disappoint.
So... In theory, you can save all the prize cars in a different save slot and still load the original save. This will allow you to beat the last race of the event and keep the 100% win ratio if you want, while still able to trade the prize cars back to you.
@@gabxln você faz como ele explicou no vídeo: salva antes da última corrida, pega o carro que você ganhou, transfere pra outro Memory Card e carrega o save pra tentar pegar outro carro. Depois que você transferir os 4 carros pro outro Memory Card, você carrega o save de novo só que dessa vez corre e vence a última corrida. O carro que você ganhar por último não importa, pois você já vai ter transferido todos antes. E assim mantém os 100%.
Finding out I don't need to get gold in the licence tests for 100% is the best feeling ever, I would not have any fun trying to grind them for that. I just see them as some good advice but mostly a road block. I came here to do racing not fucking do one corner over and over again to perfection and drive in a straight line and brake at the right time . But otherwise fantastic guide . This deserves more views. Please do a guide for Gran Turismo 4! ( I'm sure you were already planning to)
Thank you! Hehe, yeah, Polyphony weren't playing around with some of those gold times, especially on tests like A-7. Took me over an hour to get gold on that one. I do appreciate that they turned off ASM and TCS for most of the tests so you could learn the physics though. B-8 is brutal but I learned a lot about how the game handles weight transfer from that test alone. Can't say for sure when the GT4 guide will come, but I'm doing research into it right now.
I'm about to completely finish Gran Turismo 3 (other than getting gold in the licences because as you pointed out on PAL it's like impossible) for the very FIRST time and i've owned the game for over 21 years. I started this save file when Covid first hit in Australia and everyone was freaking out and I got laid off work in March 2020. I couldn't believe how much more enjoyable and 'easy' I found the game after coming back to it after a long back and honing my driving skills as an F1 League Racer. I raced through the Beginner and Amateur League and all the licence tests and that was basically where I left it. Our first covid restrictions lifted, I went back to work and I didn't have time to play the game but I also came to a crossroads. When I picked up the game again a few months back I decided to completely bypass the Professional League (recommended!) and left it till last. I did all the Endurance Races and from there I picked up some great cars (including the F1 cars) and from that moment the game is pretty easy. After doing all them, I did the Rally events and then tacked the Professional League. For the record the Professional League is a waste of time in my opinion and not needed, the races are wayyyy too long and repetitive and the tyre wear factor is annoying. But yeah leaving the Professional League last and doing the Endurances races as early as I could got me in a position to finish the game. Once you get the F1 car the races and championships are yours to win.
I watched every minute of this guide even though I don't even own gt3 lol, I've already seen your gt2 guide and it was incredibly interesting and accurate, keep up the good work, love your content.
It was only a couple months ago that I discovered on my own how much easier buying the MX-5 as your starter car is, due to its power basically doubling with a basic turbo. I always used to buy the Trueno instead and thought GT3's early game was a complete slog, now I just breezed through it without having to repeat a single event for money. Now instead it was GT4 where I struggled for money in the early game because I wanted to avoid abusing the obvious "get A license, beat Capri Rally, get rich" method. :D
The Miata really is the best choice as your starter car (1.8L version) because not only is it 100cr less than the 1.6L version but is a way better platform to build from opposed to the lame FWD cars available (Beetle, PT Crapper, Vitz, Demio, Mira TR-XX) all of which require a substantial amount of money to make them competitive. Aside from that the Miata is VERY responsive to turbo tuning (stage 1 will practically double the power output like you said) which in turn makes the car widely useable in a number of races both early on and the latter. I've done many playthroughs over the years and will only use the Miata 1.8L as a starter car.
Very helpful and informative video! I had no idea about engine break-in and reverse shifting. The advice about ASM mostly just slowing you down is useful too, thanks!
I've found your channel after this video (because right now I am playing GT3) and watching this has been useful and lovely, your channel is so dedicated and I can't thank you enough for your effort on it. Keep on working
Great guide bud// I know you've been years of dedicated play to produce this and it is excellent// for real, very well done// thank you kindly and have a great day
What a guide! Just landed me a R390, toyota gt1 and 787b within the first 15% of completion. Started with the mx5 method. Then used the evo to win the European championship for the Vertigo race car. Used that in the Pro league GT All Stars to win the R390. Then the R390 in pro Dream car championship for the Toyota Gt1. Then wheelied my way at 2000kph in Like the Wind for the 787b! Laughing how easy it was considering it was months on end when I was little 😂
Thank you, glad it worked out! Making a beeline for the LM prototypes was a good move. The R390 is my favourite, though the 787b has ridiculously low tyre wear. Sounds like you're all set to blast through GT Mode.
Not sure if this is covered or how many y'all know this. Still watching. But, the fastest car I ever encountered and built on this game is the 1998 or 2nd version worth 43,000 credits of the Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4. When I first got this game back in the day, I spent 3 months fine tuning it with every upgrade available and perameter. It had 1065hp I believe and for example starting in 6th on the test track, I could get to turn one before the 5th place car got to the place where number 1 started. If I had to estimate as it's been almost 20 years, it would do 0-60 in at the most 3 seconds. It had tunes for ralley and racing. Any race I could enter it was a guaranteed win. Fastest I could get it to go and still launched the same was 273mph before I ran out of track on max speed and still do 0 to 60 in under 3 seconds. That is the car I am working toward now.
Wow just wow👏👏 What a detailed guide😮😮😮😍😍😍 You can't imagine how much your guide helped me , you are my hero from now on😊😊😊🤘🏻🤘🏻 Right now I'm grinding GT3 to finish it , i hope you continue making these fantastic guides and love to watch your GT4 ultimate guide someday , can't wait for it😍😍😍😍🤗🤗
Thank you for the guide mate! Been playing GT3 on and off since childhood and this video made me get back into it. I never understood the tuning mechanic, so I never used it. I am amazed at how an important role it plays. I always just played the beginner league and a little bit of amateur afterwards, so it was very interesting to switch up the approach. I would suggest putting time stamps on the video for ease of navigation. Plus, it would be nice to have some "baseline" tuning metrics for the fully customizable suspension/LSD. Thanks so much for your work!
It's been so many years since the last time I played this game! GT4 added so much, it overshadowed this one by a lot! I nearly want to dust off my PS2 and discovering the game just like I was when I was an early teen. I like how you suggest the three routes and pointing up the weaknesses of the game (difficulty adj., the trade trick, the wheelie...) suggesting the game have been rushed (it has only been two years between GT2 and GT3?). Anyhow, this is a beautiful guide! There is plenty of things I learned. You deserve a sub, sir! (ps: GT1 and GT4 guide soon?)
Thank you! Yeah, GT4 addressed a lot of this game's issues (easier early game, more variety, more cars etc.) but GT3 has such a unique vibe. Once you know what you're doing, it's a very fun time. Definitely it had been rushed in the sense that there's not many cars to choose from, but I think the game experience and atmosphere was fully realized. Even with the numerous new glitches, they did fix a lot of GT2's issues as well; the ride height trick was patched out for example. GT4 guide is in the works, doing research into it at the moment. I've thought about a GT1 guide for a while but I just have no idea what to talk about. The tuning is very limited and there doesn't seem to be a way to fix instability caused by turning while braking. While the gear trick didn't exist yet, you can still create ridiculously close gears without it. Just feels like GT2 improved on GT1's handling in almost every way.
This video is amazing and so is the guide, I made a copy of it to reference while I play. I just bought GT3 and have never played it before so this is a great way to start. Like having a coach in the game. Any way we can get a narrated version of these videos?
a7 was pain!!! struggled for 4 days with an emulator, even with 1/2 speed hacks it required a dead perfect drift. i was just 1ms under the gold time, but managed to get it 50+ times just 1-3ms over
Man this is awesome!!!!! your guide is so helpfull.You done a great thing.I'm struggling with license S-8 at least a month more or less just to gain bronze,i dont now how anymore.
Absolutely yeah, just this evening I revisited a few tests in the I-B and I-A licences and I wasn't even close to gold in many of them. Feels like PD were really banking on people using the DualShock 2's pressure-sensitive buttons, and they made the test times more difficult as a result.
@@TeaKanji heh I'm not even targetting gold, bronze itself is quite a challenge sometimes. I really got to bond with that Mine's R34 in IA-8 lmao what a beaut
I was wondering why the gold S license route wasn't a thing but i guess if you're taking PAL into consideration that 1:27.800 Monaco on S-8 is a tall order even with reverse shifting and MT trickery. Though even in your handbook you do not mention the route I use specifically (All gold B > all licenses > Rodster Endurance w/ stock Miata LS > buy Viper GTS > Trial Mountain Endurance > Pro PD cup > tune said Viper GTS > Like the Wind) gets you many chances at a race car with low effort and even if you somehow fail you get a couple guaranteed backups (Mine's Skyline from Trial Mountain Endurance into pro Red Emblem and obviously Viper into NA / Stars and Stripes / FR / Like the Wind) I'm currently in a lowest amount of money spent run, which unlike no buy runs does not actually spend money on oil changes / tires / parts and it interesting just how far you have to go for some races just to not spend anything, though thankfully nothing quite as horrible as in GT4 where you have to win the British Lightweight Series in a stock Ginetta G4 (if it sounds horrible, that's because it is).
You gold the B licence, get all the other licences, then do two endurances and Polyphony Digital Cup right at the start of each playthrough? Your patience is unfathomable. I mean, you're right that it's a way to get a few strong cars and a bunch of credits I guess, but two endurances back-to-back, followed by one of the longest events in the game, is a very tough sell in a guide like this. Especially when you can obtain the GT-One road car later on in the playthrough to clear them quickly with. For the handbook routes, I mainly focused on consistency, time and casual-friendliness. Golding the S licence would indeed be 'optimal' over the other starting routes, but personally I don't find fun in doing nothing but grinding out licences for the first couple hours, and I didn't want to encourage others to do the same. More power to you of course if that's what you enjoy. GT3 already has a huge stigma around its early game being extremely grindy and/or drawn out, so I wanted to get around that by showing that you can get a strong car with only two licences and 6-10 short races done. The lowest-amount-spent run seems interesting though, did you check out Sough's run? He did a write-up on GTPlanet called "100% completion in under 200k". Some of the races like Lightweight K race 3 against boosted AI sounded very painful. I tried doing British Lightweight with the stock G4 in preparation for my GT4 guide, so yep, I can imagine how painful that Apricot Hill race was.
@@TeaKanji >You gold the B licence, get all the other licences, then do two endurances and Polyphony Digital Cup right at the start of each playthrough? Well i used to before I went with the "Gold every license" idea But really the idea I like with that series of race is that you do licenses then you have a race that's not hard on a circuit that's not hard with a car that's not hard to get back in the swing of things then you have a race that's not hard with a circuit that is somewhat hard on a car that is very hard to actually start focusing on your driving. PD cup is really only if i didn't get the cool stuff on either of the endurance races because there I'm guaranteed something really cool regardless. > GT3 already has a huge stigma around its early game being extremely grindy and/or drawn out I mean the Pro series definitely are a huge part of that which is why I like mixing it with the rest of the game instead of having to do this huge block of long and difficult races right at the end >The lowest-amount-spent run seems interesting though, did you check out Sough's run? He did a write-up on GTPlanet called "100% completion in under 200k". I hadn't and it seems like he's got the challenge on lock because I can't see any way to save much on his run.
Me, when my uncle gave me the Game back in 2002 "Oh, cool i won a racing car!" *Sets Gears to the absolute MAX because the car goes faaast!* Little did i know
Fantastic guide thank you so much. Enjoying GT7 with a wheel lately has made me play again GT3 on steam deck oled and that career mode is fantastic. Your guide is exactly what I needed. Just a question: do you think default controller layout without pressure sensitive button is bad? Or good enough (not sure if I should force myself to get used to stick for throttle)
It's good enough if you're running TCS, and even without it, I've been able to get golds in most tests without issue without pressure-sensitive buttons. You can usually make up for the lack of throttle control by other means (gear setup, keeping the car in a high gear etc.). Fully analog steering is quite satisfying though and makes some corners way easier to half-throttle through.
Thanks for this video, i had hard time beating the route 11 with the mx-5, by setting suspensions and long 1th 2nd gears i managed to do it. I still need to digest all the suspensions tuning, for now i'm replicating your advices but i'm not sure what i'm doing.
Glad to hear! There's a breakdown of each setting in the handbook, but yeah, testing stuff out and seeing what works and doesn't work is the best way to learn. Spring and stabiliser settings can make a big difference for making cars feel less floaty and more stable, while raising the front height and lowering the rear can move the car's weight balance back for more rear wheel traction.
Hands down the best guide out there, appreciate the work you put in. But I was wondering if you have a tune setup for the Skyline R-34 V-spec II, it's my favourite JDM car and your tuning setups seem to agree with me :)
Thank you! Sure thing, I'm a bit out-of-practice with GT3 tuning at the moment, but I had a go at it. All power upgrades with turbo stage 2, no VCD controller or LSD, all other upgrades: tyres: medium-hard / medium springs: 7.2 / 8.8 ride height: 112 / 86 dampers [B + R]: 2 / 7 camber: 1.8 / 1.4 toe: 0 / 0 stabilisers: 7 / 7 brake balance: 18 / 10 gears: gear trick, max final gear downforce: 0.29 / 0.55 ASM: 0 TCS: 1 The car should have more than enough power for Red Emblem Professional while being able to do 5-lap stints, the stage 3 and 4 turbo are overkill IMO since it just can't handle that much torque without stretching out the gears to a ridiculous amount. Hope that helps.
it might be dumb question to ask but how do i actually set the controls for shifting up and down? While I see the shift down option in the settings (assigned to triangle by default), I Can't find shift up option? Why's that?
The NTSC-J prize car RNG trick doesn't work if you go into qualifying before the race - just learned it the hard way! I won the Roadster Endurance event, went into the option menu once and then exited with triangle. I was trying to get the F688/S (the bottom car in the roulette), but instead won the car on the left: a MX5 1.8 RS in Sparkle Green.
I don't know if you've seen this comment now, but I think that it works correctly and you have 2 mistakes. Please look at Miyakoshi's website (written in Japanese) linked in TeaKanji's the Ultimete Guide handbook. 1. different of roulette patterns Miyakoshi showed 3 roulette patterns: - for championship - for endurance (without Lagna Seca) - Lagna Seca 200 Miles only works In championship race, ”going into option menu once” makes deciding the bottom car in roulette. But you participated in an endurance race, you should pay attention to the different of roulette patterns. 2. qualifying once = option menu 4 times You said "doesn't work if you go into qualifying". You are partially correct. To be more precise, qualifying entering & exiting once is equivalent to the option menu entering & exiting 4 times, explains Miyakoshi. You went into qualifying once, and then ran Roadster endurance, and then went into the option menu once. Let's check Miyakoshi's sheet where "roulette pattern of endurance race (without Lagna Seca)" and "the option menu 5 times" intersect. The answer is "the left car in roulette". Thus, you were guaranteed to get the green NB Roadster(Miata). In qualifying, it works the same whether you record a lap time or exit the moment you enter. This will save you time when you try to go into the option menu multiple times. Used well, you can specify not only the type of car you want but also your favorite color. For F1 cars, LM race cars or Speed 12 etc. Also see this closed website: web.archive.org/web/20191217114328/g-unlimited.com/gt3/
Dude i've played GT3 since i was a kid, not constantly tho, but i learn like 70% of the game from ur vid damn. I wish i knew it sooner, i could be that cool kid at school who knows bout these stuffs (after you tho)
Oh and for emulator boys, u can use save states before pressing "OK" on the championship prize menu to reroll the prize car just in case any1 doesn't know
@@TeaKanji Yo Tea, can you make a bite size video that only shows the tuning part on each Gran Turismo? Better yet if you can make it for each part (suspension, brakes, transmission, etc) If you can make it into a single vid it would be great too, just a thought.
Hmm, I don't have a PS3 set up right now though so I would only be able to do it for the PS1 and PS2 games. I'd rather get a bit more in-depth than just showing the parts as well, and it's kind of hard to go from game to game showing how each part works and how to tune them all, especially when stuff like brake balance differs wildly between games. I don't have a Discord server right now, I feel like having to own and moderate a server on top of everything else would just distract me right now. Maybe in the future though.
On PAL and NTSC-U, yeah, you can save state on the screen before the roulette and the car will be different each time. NTSC-J doesn't work that way and requires some extra manipulation.
Hi Kanji, would you kindly upload the raw video as a file somewhere? UA-cam compresses a lot the videos and I'd love to store this video somewhere else offline just in case it gets deleted or something else happens in the best quality possible. Thank you in advance.
@@TeaKanji I forgot to mention that if you could do the same for the GT2 too, since I think it deserves to be properly preserved. Thank you in advance once again :)
that's a nice tutorial and all, but i need help with another begining route, the one with the Panoz Esperante. i managed to unlock it but what i can i do to progress from here?
You can do pretty much whatever you want. While it's a below-average race car, it's still a race car, and can compete in almost any event. If you want my recommendation, enter the German Touring Car Race and reset the last race until you get the RUF 3400S. WIth that, you're pretty much sorted for the rest of the playthrough. Alternatively, you can just sell the Panoz and buy any car you want. You can get another (better) race car from the American or European championships anyway.
Been watching your gt guide series and how would this video differentiate with a wheel and pedals on the games? I know you mention controllers a lot but id imagine tuning would be much different with a wheel and pedal setup? I'm on original hardware fyi.
For GT1 through GT3, I'd say almost all of it of it would stay the same. You do have the advantage of much better throttle control than a controller user though, so setting TCS to 0 becomes more reasonable in GT3. It's GT4 where you'd be at much more of an advantage with a wheel, as wheelspin when launching and exiting corners is much more prevalent. With good throttle control, you can run slightly shorter gears and get faster launches by half-throttling with 0 TCS. Can tune cars more towards oversteer too as making slight turns is easier than with a controller.
I haven't checked out the guide (Yet) but maybe you can upload your version of the song in the intro? It's incredible feels so calming and beautiful. If not then no problem at all. Sorry that I'm asking without even watching the video.
Do you have settings for the Motor Sport Elise and the Spoon S2000? For the Elise Trophy and Spider & Roadster PL, respectively. I'm not sure if this is a NTSC-U thing, but the Motor Sport cannot enter the Spider & Roadster event (which is weird since it is normally one of the opponents). The Motor Sport is really hard to drive on the default settings. The car oversteers way too much. The Spider & Roadster PL has been a headache for me too, as the AI never pits, so I can't pit either, but I can't find good settings to compensate for the bad tires.
I revisited the tune I used for the Motor Sport Elise, made some adjustments, and here it is: springs: 9.0 / 7.5 ride height: 115 / 76 dampers [B + R]: 5 / 5 camber: 4.4 / 2.2 toe: 0 / 0 stabilisers: 5 / 6 brake balance: 14 / 4 LSD (I, A, D): 60, 10, 60 Full gear trick with close gears, all upgrades with stage 2 turbo (overkill for Elise Trophy, can go for NA tuning or stage 1 turbo instead, will make the car easier to handle), medium racing tyres on front and rear. The rear tyres will get pretty cooked up by lap 4 or so, but the front tyres should keep the car together and you can pit on lap 5. I used TCS 1, but the car has pretty good traction and likely doesn't need it. Tweak the front camber if the car feels understeery or still feels too twitchy. I'll get around to the Spoon S2000 in the next day or two, just got back home from family and I've work in the morning. Bear in mind I'm very rusty with GT3 after playing 2 for so long, so you might need to make a few adjustments of your own.
@@TeaKanji You really should add those settings to your book guide. That Elise Trophy event is an absolutely nightmare without a proper tune. For the S2000, I end up using the same settings as the Race Car version of it. Maybe not ideal, but still much better than the default settings. It worked fine. But for some reason the Trial Mountain race of Spider & Roadsters PL is way harder than the other two, and the Motor Sport Elise race all 10 full laps without pitting once. I had to equip Hard Racing tires for a no pit race in order to win.
@@TeaKanji Btw, do you happen to have rally settings for the Escudo? I tried to follow you rally tuning guide, but the Escudo seems to behave very differently from the other cars. I can still easily beat any rally event with it due to how fast it is, but it is almost impossible to control it properly.
How important is reverse shifting? I'll be playing the game using a steering wheel and afaik i only have the four face buttons that i can bind reverse to. Also thanks again for the guides you've made!!
It's useful if you're doing difficult events without many upgrades like the Miata route does, or if you want to make the licence tests a bit easier. It's not essential, but it's fun and adds a new challenge of doing the fastest possible reverse taps for best acceleration. Unfortunate if you can't remap it, but not a massive loss, people have made do without it for nearly two decades. Glad you enjoyed the guides!
It also exists in GT Concept and GT4 Prologue, but it was patched out for GT4. However, you can get the same type of shift in GT4 with non-FF cars if you tap handbrake right as you're about to gear up. The timing is quite strict and you need to try and press handbrake as little as possible so the car doesn't slow down, but it can give a small acceleration boost to cars with slow gear shifts. Here's a video showing how it works: ua-cam.com/video/WW2ESCJu-Ws/v-deo.html
@@TeaKanji about the e brake i do already know. In older gt games you could handbrake tap the launch aswell so it gets more grip + the „taps“ while shifting. Gt6 was the last one with tapping. In gt7 it works too - just different.
Dear Kanji, I have two questions for you. First, is there any slider where I can increase the engine sound so I can hear it trough the music and tyre screeching? And second, is there any way to combat GT3's floaty controlls or just a get used to it?
Hi there, hmm, I don't know of any way to increase the engine sound without also increasing the rest of the SFX, sorry about that. Maybe it's possible with modding or GameShark codes but not sure. For reducing floatiness, the main ways are stiffening the car's springs and stabilisers. Even on cars that oversteer, you'll want to stiffen both the front and rear springs to mitigate body roll. Between 4 - 6 stabilisers both sides should help also. You should feel the car drift off less as you make slight inputs. Also, for FR's, MR's and 4WD's, maxing the front height and lowering the rear height helps a lot with cornering stability while also giving the car a tighter turn radius. Even then though, GT3's handling is probably the heaviest of the entire series. They really amped up the effects of weight transfer after GT2, so you constantly need to be thinking about where the car's weight is as you brake and turn into corners. It'll take a while to get used to for sure.
@@TeaKanji I definitly get them stabilizers then, because it's so damn annoying that even I move the stick a bit, the whole car wants to go to into wall, not just straighten out. I even searched for sensitivity option what we actually have in GT5 for example, but no luck
Yeah, the semi-racing kit lets you raise the stabilisers to 4 each side, so it's a nice upgrade on a budget if you can't afford the custom kit. There's analog sensitivity options if you're playing on PCSX2, but unfortunately not on original hardware.
Dude how do you take corners so well everytime I try I have to hard press the brake button basically putting my car to a halt or just let x go and wish for the best
I usually brake quite late, and tap the brakes mid-corner if I need to regulate the car's speed a bit more. I play GT2 a lot, and GT3's handling is quite similar except cars roll more and have less grip, so I suppose some skill carried over from game to game.
So for the tires part I accidentally bought the 17,000 Miata mx5 and it doesn’t have a medium hard tire so I bought medium slick since that’s what took that tires spot are they the same thing but named differently or do the slick tires make me more slippery on the track
Gran Turismo 3: A-Spec holds a special place in my heart. And for a strange reason, I have a desire to play it again. So this weekend, I will make that happen. On original hardware, of course. PAL-version here. You're all rooting for me, right? 😃
Can someone help ? Basically i did the miata route, managed to beat the first spider and roadster race after a few upgrades, and then i realized the car couldn't keep up in the na cup at all, so i gave it a turbo stage 1 upgrade, and now it refuses to let me enter the na cup even though my car is naturally aspirated
Enter a free run from the garage (or an event with no entry restrictions like Sunday Cup), enter the car settings, then unequip the turbo in the Change Parts section.
@@TeaKanjithanks for the help but there's one big problem, the car is not nearly fast enough to keep up in the na cup, the only car the Miata with these upgrades can keep up to is the 328ci, i honestly don't know how you managed to beat it in the video, considering literally every car in the lineup is about 5x faster than you
Thank you! I used to keep Spotify playlists but I haven't updated them in a while. I mostly listen to full albums these days. If you like the style of music I use, there's a lot of great Japanese jazz fusion out there worth checking out. Casiopea, T-Square and Masayoshi Takanaka were added to Spotify recently, they're some of the best 80's fusion acts. A friend of mine, Leader of the Bunch, runs a UA-cam channel where he uploads hour-long mixes of J-Jazz, those are well worth checking out too.
Oh, actually, if you like that sort of 90's lounge-ish stuff, then definitely check out Stereolab (Dots and Loops), Everything But The Girl (Walking Wounded, Temperamental), Underworld (Second Toughest in the Infants, Beaucoup Fish) and St Germain (Tourist). Some of my all-time favourite albums for vibing out.
Just recently bought a ps2 again and have GT3 and 4. How are you getting 1080p res with your game? I have a AV to HDMI converter but the graphics are still as if I was playing in 2005 lmao
Oh, I recorded all the footage for the guide using PCSX2. The 1080p upscaling is nice, but the emulator feels like it's constantly dropping frames (you can notice stutters at certain points in both the footage and the backgrounds). For GT4, if you're playing on a HD TV with an NTSC copy, you can set the game to 480p in the screen settings and it'll look a lot sharper.
Does increasing gear prevent wheelspin? l learnt this trick by watching a speed 12 guide on Forza horizon and then tried it on Gran turismo 2 with Speed 12. l wouldn't wheelspin ever if l was on fourth gear, so the car would start a bit slow but at least it had stable handling. That car is the monster of Gran Turismo, supreme speed and acceleration at the cost of handling
Yes absolutely, it's a big reason why launching in 2nd gear is optimal for a bunch of the B licence tests. Ideally though, you'd want to set up the gears as well so 2nd and 3rd, if not 1st as well, are usable without wheelspin. The gear trick helps with that, and also reduces the RPM drops between gears so you can keep the car at peak RPM's more often.
This is a really good guide :) Too bad im terrible at controlling the miata, maybe its the traction or im awful but it feels so slippery even with upgrades, might just do amateur 80s cup for better car or grind for one cuz oof
Thank you! Yeah, that's kind of a consequence of adding so much power to a car with such a small chassis and tyres. Raising TCS up to 3 will help a bit, or setting the front height to max and rear to min so there's more weight on the rear wheels for better traction.
@@TeaKanji ill have to keep trying different settings and skill to beat turbo amateur and escape early game, then beat USA amateur to get camaro race car route n go from there
@@HELLRAISER02 If you save up 20-26k credits, you can buy either a Civic or Integra Type R and do Type R Meeting Beginner. Shouldn't need any upgrades besides maybe an oil change and flywheel to win it, and it'll give you 35k credits and a prize car worth either 7.5k or 75k depending on whether you're playing NTSC-U or PAL. If you go for the Integra, you can keep using it for FF Beginner, FF Amateur and NA Amateur as well. That's probably the easiest way if you don't want to keep using the Miata.
@@TeaKanji hmm, fair, regardless of how i go about it, just gotta get a race car or something, could go miata route, type R route, or do my old 5th grader route of grinding till i get money for an NSX or viper, haha, slow but i love those cars
What do you think, if we suppose that I'm never going to change any suspension settings, does it make a difference to buy fully customizable one? Are the default settings themselves any different between sport suspension and full customizable suspension, or they're the same and the custom one just gives you ability to change them?
I can't say for certain what the car's true "default settings" are, but if it's anything like GT2, it's 1 dampers, 1 stabilisers and 0 camber. Spring rates are the same as the default ones when you buy the fully custom suspension. The camber, dampers and stabilisers are automatically set when you buy a suspension kit. Honestly I would always recommend making *some* adjustments, even if you don't think the car needs any. A low ride height, at least 1.0 of camber on both sides (ideally between 2.0 and 3.0) and stabilisers to 4 / 4 or higher will help the car feel a lot tighter and keep traction better in corners.
I'm at about 25% completion of the game and there are some questions I want to make: First, are you supposed to not use the 6th gear after doing the gear trick? I didn't test with all cars, but I did the gear trick with the 1002hp Altezza LM, but when the car reaches the last gear, it actually loses speed. At first I thought it was a problem with the automatic transmission, but the same thing happens on manual. Of course, the car only ever reaches the 6th gear on courses like the Test Track, but since I play mostly on automatic, for those races, I need to switch to manual and never gear up above the 5th gear. It's not a big problem, I just think it is odd. Second, are there any drawbacks in using Super Soft Racing Tires on the events that doesn't have tire wear? I know it may be better to stick with the harder tires so you get used to car playing like that, and of course there's the cost of the tires. But assuming I have the money to spare, and don't want to ever use the car on any event with tire wear, are the Super Soft the best option?
1: it depends on the car, as some cars have less drag and wind resistance than others. Did you reduce both the front and rear downforce before doing the Test Course races? That should partly fix the car not accelerating in 6th gear, at least from my testing. Just need to remember to increase it again afterwards. 2: nope, no downside to super softs in races without tyre wear. That includes all of the Beginner league, most of the Amateur league and the wet races in the Rally league. There's only a slight grip increase between softs and super softs though, so softs are probably better on a budget.
@@TeaKanji I just read the book and found out both questions were already answered there lol. Sorry, my bad. On a side note, I almost lost my mind trying to get Gold on R-6. People talk about A-7, but that one was much easier for me; it requires perfect execution, but it is only one turn. R-6 requires near perfect execution of 4 U turns in a row, in a rally course. That thing is hell.
@@TeaKanji hey, I just noticed something. In your guide you mention the IA-4 license test being harder to gold on NTSC. Everywhere I search at Google mentions 0:32.000 as the target time on NTSC, and 0:32.200 on PAL, but I have the NTSC version of the game and the target time for gold is the same as PAL. Mine is the Greatest Hits version, so maybe they changed the time for that version? You could check it on an emulator if you have interest. I can’t because I play on real hardware and my computer can’t handle PS2 emulation. I would say I was lucky but miraculously I end up getting a sub 32 time anyway lol.
If I have the resources then maybe, but I don't have a capture card and PS3 emulation is still being worked on. I guess there's a few events in particular I could cover, like the X2010 trials and the Alfa 8C at Eiger, though I think most things like tuning will be covered in my upcoming GT4 guide. Might be a good while before I get around to a GT5 guide unfortunately.
I'm back again. I would like to state that the cheaper of the starter MX5's is the 1993 model, which has the 1.8 liter engine, while the one that cost 17,000 is the 1989 model, with the 1.6 liter engine
@@TeaKanji I always wondered why the PAL version did not show the model years, like the NTSC version did. Anyways, I might not be a tuning guru, but at least I know my engines.
Yep, cars oversteer way more and tyres lose grip very easily compared to later GT games. The early game is also a lot more brutal, which is why I wanted to spend so much time focusing on starting cars, upgrades etc. that allow you to escape it. Once you set up your car's suspension and equip racing tyres though, the handling becomes very enjoyable IMO. It feels slightly arcade-ish, not too far off from GT2, and once you embrace it for that, the game is quite the vibe. Let me know if you've any questions and I can try to help out.
Do you need a tune for a casual playthrough, or a fully maxed-out tune? If it's the former, prioritize medium-hard tyres, the custom gearbox and semi-racing suspension, apply the gear trick as shown with the Miata, set the height to 150 / 116 to move the car's weight towards the back for better turning and traction, shocks to 2 / 8 for better turn-in, 1.4 / 1.4 camber for improved overall grip and 4 / 4 stabilisers to make the car feel less floaty. Maxed out, most of the same applies, except you can stiffen the rear springs with the custom suspension kit to further improve turn-in and reduce body roll, along with having extra ride height adjustment. The LSD isn't too important with this car if TCS is set to 1, as it'll make the car slightly more difficult to turn when equipped, but it can be useful with accel set to 60 and decel set to 5 if you're going for max power.
Almost done, just a couple sections left to do along with the intro music. This is the video ID for a small unlisted preview uploaded if you want to check it out: gUjppaw-RDI
Ah, are you in the "options" menu, where the controller settings and everything else is? That menu has toggles for ASM and TCS, but they're for Arcade Mode only (they also don't work properly on NTSC). The sliders are in the car settings menu that you can access before you enter a race.
Hehe, sure thing. Main thing to remember is to move the auto setting slider right before going left. It's a bit bugged in this game and the final gear won't work properly if you move it left straight away. Other than that, a rough ballpark of "1st left, 4th and 5th right, 2nd and 3rd somewhere in between, 6th as long as you need it to be" will do the job. Thankfully they added better visual cues in GT4.
@@TeaKanji i also set the timestamp so i could see the close gear settings before i do the gear trick too lol, i know the numbers change depending on the car but i figure if i set the yellow toggles to roughly the same spots they're at in your demonstration, it's the same diff pretty much. i mean, I'm onto the R32 portion of the run now and that's how i set its initial close gears up was by basically doing the same thing i did to the Miata and just adjusting where i needed to (which wasn't very much adjusting tbh) before doing the gear trick. tbh, before this guide came out, i always would just download a save with all the licenses golded as well as the prize cars and a few extra decent cars but none of the races run yet, and copy it to my memory card via free mcboot and ulaunchelf, and that was my way of avoiding early-game poverty and lockout for so long. honestly, i feel like with how rough GT3 can be starting out if you take the wrong route, it's understandable when people cheat their way through the early-game. but your guide and the Miata/R32 route actually helped me escape early-game poverty and lockout without actually needing to download a save file. so seriously, thank you for that. you must have really dove deep into the game and practiced/tested out every possible starting route to determine what the three best ones were. and considering how many events there are to enter in the early-game, that's a LOT of possible starter routes to go through. i seriously commend you on the effort and heart and hard work you poured into this to help me and every other pleb like me who gets stuck in GT3 early game hell all the time to get out of early game hell lol. thank you for that.
@@caifabe8050 ah, thank you! The core of the Miata route wasn't too difficult to figure out (it's all about NA and Turbo for those 5k / 15k payouts and the prize cars), it was mostly deciding which upgrades to buy and when. Speedrunners who buy the Miata at the start usually pick the semi-racing flywheel and go straight to NA, but I found that doing the Spider & Roadster race first helps a lot since you need as many upgrades as possible for NA Beginner race 3 and NA Amateur. I also had to go back a few times to re-budget after I found out an upgrade was better than I thought it was, like the driveshaft. The B licence route basically routed itself, much more of a straight path to the Amateur league. Trueno route was difficult to figure out though, it's like a tightrope. You want to build up as much money as possible, which means you're on the limit in 80's Cup. It's just barely winnable with NA tuning; the turbo would be a better upgrade but it makes the car invalid for NA and it can't win race 3 without it. Doing NA race 1 for extra money makes the route much easier since you can then afford a turbo / NA stage 2, but I didn't want to make it seem like grinding was the only option. The route originally upgraded the RX-7 instead of the Trueno, but I eventually decided the Trueno was the better option since it was way cheaper, can enter all the same events and ended up with a similar power / weight ratio. It went through a lot of re-routes, along with all of the sub-routes in the handbook. It was all a fun puzzle honestly, trying to find the 'optimal' route that doesn't involve grinding. I'm glad it paid off!
@@TeaKanji I'm on the Pro League Race of Red Emblem rn (between races 2 and 3) and I also chose to use the CR-X del Sol for the Beginner FF Challenge before selling it. i think im around 11% right now. i got there within about 9 hours but that also includes afk-time where the game was just running while i was say, making food or watching a replay or posting something on twitter or snapchat lol. GT3 was the first video game i ever played and it still holds up as a great game 20 years after i first played it. also 20 years ago i didnt know how to play it because i was literally 3 years old lmao.
Is there going to be any more gt guides? I would like it bc i can learn about other gt games without playing them Btw i heard the gt3 is freakin difficult, is this true?
Glad you're enjoying them! I haven't quite decided what I'm going to do next. This guide took months of research to make, and I'm probably going to relax for a bit and think about it. I think 2 and 3 were the games that most deserved a guide because 2 is broken and 3 is arguably the most difficult game in the series. The series from 4 onwards became much easier, so I'm not sure if those games need a guide like this. 3 is difficult if you don't know what you're doing at the start. The game gives you much less money and prize cars for completing events compared to 2. I got stuck as a kid and couldn't beat any events except Sunday Cup, and from reading UA-cam comments, a lot of people also met the same fate. Only a handful of the starter cars are actually viable, and you have to be careful which upgrades to buy. That's why I wanted to spend so much time on starting routes in the guide, to help people overcome it and get into the game proper.
@@TeaKanji I remember me as a kid in GT2 with Special Events completed, but the game progress was not at 100%. I didn't even know endurances, rally, gt league existed lmao. If you want and can do/ i suggest a video on best prize cars in gt2 since it has been a question for a long time in my case. I always win random low powered cars, EG: Miata, Mugen bois, random compacts and i always sell them, because i didn't want to mess up my garage with random cars.
@@TRR23123 Hmm, maybe yeah, though I feel like the list would be pretty short since most prize cars can't get racing modifications. The Sileighty, Mazdaspeed Demio and Accord Type R can though and those are all pretty decent. Probably the best prize cars are the Lancia Stratos and Lotus Europa because of how fast they are despite being low-powered. The Skyline R30 Silhouette too, of course.
Man I skipped 3 entirly and played 2 until 4 came out because we couldnt afford a used ps2. I picked it up for cheap later but found the no used cars thing to be sad and kinda game ruining for me.
Hehe, I did yeah. While doing research for the guide, I realized pretty early on that there was no way I could fit everything into a 60 - 75 minute video. So, I documented everything I found and put it all together in one book.
I give up with this game. I started playing the whole series since the very first GT, trying to 100% all games and getting all golds in the license tests. So far I was successful with GT1 and GT2. Some of the tests were super hard, but it never took me more than 2 days of trying to beat the time. GT3 was going well too, until S-6... I'm trying for 1 week straight, every day, playing for hours, and no matter what I can't get it. I tried with ghost and no ghost, AT and MT, watch carefully the demo, watch tutorials on UA-cam... none of that matters. I started playing GT4 before I was done with this game because there's literally nothing else left to do. Every time I boot up this game is just to play S-6. I know you have nothing to do with it, but I just wanted to outburst. I think it's time to give up on this and just admit I don't have the skill to beat this test.
Hmm, I'm not sure what to suggest. I tried it again just now and, like S-8 later on, the car is much easier to handle if you never go below 3rd gear. If you play it safe, getting under 1:22 should be doable.
@@TeaKanji I'm not trying to get a sub 1'22, I'm trying to get sub 1'16.800 for the gold time. It's the only thing left for me to be completely done with the game. I even have all cars in the garage except the Viper GTSR Concept, which I should get after beating that test. Or maybe I should say "I would get", because I'm not sure if I'm gonna keep trying anymore.
Oh, sorry, that makes more sense now, I misread. That test is ridiculously difficult for sure, a lot is expected from the player for a gold time. Personally I always settled for silvers when it comes to licence tests (unless I need the prize car) so I wouldn't let this bother you. Considering you can win the Viper GTSR from another event anyway, I feel like the licence golds are just 'bonuses' rather than being necessary for completion.
@@TeaKanji I end up getting it after playing for 4 hours no stopping. This test is the weirdest and most unnecessarily hard I ever saw. My strategy to get the gold was to take more risks at the first half to play as good as I could, and then try to clutch out the second half. I got sub 1'17 three times doing that, but still not enough for gold. Well... somehow I got the gold time after a bad first half. I was like 500-600ms slower than normal when I reach the corkscrew and still end up getting gold. I watch the replay and there were very clear mistakes in the first half, but it seems that some of the turns can save you a LOT of time if you do then perfectly. I have a 1'16.884 replay saved in my memory card and the run looks a lot more clean, with only the corkscrew looking a tad slower. It's very strange.
why is this game so damn difficult to come back to after so long like the cars feel like the cars just feel like they keep turning on their own and it just keeps throwing me off
You're using the analog stick to steer the car right? GT3 has pretty slippery handling compared to later GT's, it's a love/hate sort of thing. Main things I can suggest are, prioritize racing tyres, set a front springs bias, drive in manual and keep the car in a high gear when exiting corners, and use the LSD to tame power oversteer. 60 Initial 60 Acceleration can make a huge difference in cars that tend to lift off when exiting corners. Setting the front height high and the rear height low helps a ton for corner exit traction too.
Hehe, don't worry though, getting golds is completely optional for 100% and you can get all the prize cars from different events anyway. NTSC's B-8 is still very difficult despite the 200 extra milliseconds of leeway, and the less said about A-7, the better.
Thank you all for the very warm response! A few things I wanted to add and correct myself on:
- On NTSC, ASM and TCS are always enabled in time trials, even if you turn it off from the options menu. I still think NTSC is easier though, as having assists enabled makes the banked corner section of Complex String much less risky. The time you'd lose from ASM slowing your car down doesn't outweigh the extra 3 seconds of leniency in my opinion.
- The nightly version of PCSX2 lets you run de-interlacing patches for GT3, making the graphics much sharper and clearer if you enable "Apply No-Interlacing Patches" in the graphics menu. The patches can be found here, just drag the pnach files into the "patches" folder in PCSX2's data directory: github.com/xan1242/GT3NoInterlace/releases/tag/1.0
- GT3 has recently received a RetroAchievements set developed by suXin, which tracks your progress on PCSX2 and awards achievements for reaching milestones and beating challenges. If playing on Hardcore Mode (which disables save states and slowdown), you can also compete against other players on the leaderboards for time trials and licence tests. I highly recommend setting it up if you're playing GT3 on emulator.
- Small typo at 6:34, I meant "200km / 126 miles". Just to clarify, there is a 100km / 63 mile period where the 5% power boost from fresh oil will slowly wear off. The oil light won't come on until it's completely worn off. By changing the oil every 200km / 126 miles, you avoid this wear-off period from happening.
- Since making this video, I've added a bunch of new sub-routes to the handbook, particularly for the Buy a Miata and B Licence All Golds routes. If you're looking for some guidance and/or inspiration for your own playthrough, check them out. You'll find event routes, parts lists and tunes for cars like the Corvette Z06, Lancer Evo VI GSR T.M.E. and Impreza WRX STi. I plan to make a follow-up video to demonstrate these sub-routes in the near-future.
- The 16,900 Miata is actually the '93 model, while the 17,000 one is the '89 model. I didn't realize that the NTSC descriptions in the dealership show the difference between the two. I assumed that they were in chronological order and that the first one was the older model. The '93 model is still eligible for 80's Sports Car Cup events, so it doesn't change the route or anything, of course, just wanted to clear that up.
- I spent the entire guide calling Test Course "Test Track" for some reason. Apparently my mind was in Epcot while writing the script. Also misspelled "amateur" in one or two places.
- The sports/semi-racing damper settings affect both the bound and rebound for each side. For example, a rear bias will increase turn-in oversteer and corner exit understeer. Set a bias if you want the car to feel more balanced in corners.
- The fully-tuned AE86 in the Trade Trick Trueno route has much better handling if you set the ride height to 150 / 99. Set the dampers to 2 / 8 bound + rebound and LSD Decrease to 5 to make the car easier to turn into corners. Camber can be safely reduced to 2.2 / 3.0 and the rear toe can be removed. Full tune in the handbook.
- Instead of buying sports suspension, port polish and weight reduction stage 2 for the NB Miata in the B Licence route, get the semi-racing suspension, then set the ride height to 130 / 100, dampers to 4 / 6, camber to 2.2 / 2.4 and stabilisers to 4 / 4. Not only does it save money, the car should handle much better too, as the car will be more rear-heavy while also having tighter handling due to decreased body roll.
- I said that a rear spring rate bias can induce oversteer in 4WD's; it's much more complex than that. Stiffening the springs will decrease body roll, which will induce understeer in FF's and 4WD's. Setting them loose can make the car turn more easily at the cost of instability. For the best turning ability, I've had success with the softest springs possible, 2 / 2 damper bounds and 1.4 / 1.4 camber. I then use the rear LSD to stabilise the car if it loses control entering corners.
- About setting the rear ride height higher than the front, my wording was a bit poor. The game treats it like you're moving the car's center of gravity forward, improving stability on corner entry but also making the car more difficult to turn. Unlike GT2 and GT4, ride height biases don't seem to affect braking distances. The 'ride height trick' from GT2 was also removed.
- Setting the front ride height higher than the rear can massively improve corner exit traction in powerful FR race cars. With the center of gravity moved towards the back, rear wheel traction is improved, and the car also turns more easily. I'm currently re-tuning many race cars in the handbook to use front height biases. Try setting the height of the Supra JGTC to 100 / 50.
- The VCD controller raises the drivetrain inertia for almost all 4WD's when equipped, reducing acceleration at high speeds. I strongly suggest unequipping it if using the car on high-speed tracks or Test Course. The only exceptions to this are the Lancer Evo VI and VII RS. It also converts the car into a ‘generic’ 4WD: the TT will turn from a 'FF' into a proper 4WD, removing all wheelspin and power understeer. Meanwhile, on Skyline GT-R’s, the controller will induce understeer and make the car more difficult to turn.
- NTSC-J doesn't randomize event prize cars the same way as NTSC-U and PAL. In Western releases, if you save state before the prize car screen, the car will be different each time. On NTSC-J, however, the prize car won't change when you do this. You need to manipulate the RNG by saving and resetting the game before entering the last race of a championship or endurance, then going into the options menu a certain amount of times before obtaining the prize car. See this page for more info: miyakoshi.mydns.jp/gt3/precarget.html
Everything else should be covered in the handbook, but I'll add more here if anything comes to mind. Link to the handbook: docs.google.com/document/d/1dSzM7tQb2Fgue8zN-OY_ndimyHin9X-WQtq9BQul6AM/edit?usp=sharing
Thanks a lot, I hope you know that your work is highly appreciated!
Hey, just to let you know, your website looks like it's down right now. I was also looking for a handbook for GT1 and 2 if you made one, I love your videos but having to rewind every time to check something isn't exactly practical.
@@Vas0sky Hi there, hmm, which URL did you click on? The one in the pinned comment and in the description works fine for me, maybe Google Docs was temporarily down or something. I've been working on text guides for GT1 and GT2 yeah, expect an announcement on those shortly. Glad you enjoy the videos!
This video gives a very good explanation of the best way to progress through gran turismo 3 which I will damn well never do
if you found a way to publish a nice physical copy of your handbook with illustrations and a nice front page, I'd buy it instantly even if the price is high
This was my favorite game for years. I remember winning the final endurance race on my birthday, and my sister bought me GT6 later that day😢 Good memories.
that's so sweet fren, i hope you thanked her well
Why are you sad about that? 😟
Am ending to an era and the start of new times.. lovely that you had your sister in that memory on your birthday.
"Don't cry because it ended, smile because it happened" 😊
I wasn't expecting this! the GT2 ultimate guide was already perfect but this is truly outstanding! thanks for showing how much you love these games.
Ah, thank you! Glad you've been enjoying the guides so far.
You can see that this is a result of a lot of loving work from the first seconds of the video. It's heartwarming, this is such a great game. Thanks man, all the best with your future work!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the intro. As a kid, I always loved watching the Viper GTS-R driving around in the intro, and I wanted to try recreating that magic with a more nostalgic tone, while also showing how huge of a leap the graphics were from 2 to 3.
Your deep dives with these older Gran Turismos are simply immaculate. I can only imagine how much time it took to put these together, much respect! 🙌
Thank you! It took some time yeah, but I felt like all of these games deserved it for sure.
I’ve played GT3 since it first released and I never ever knew about engine break in or engine wear that’s amazing how I find new and new things about this game great video btw
Immediately paused at 37:50 to take a pic to use in future lol. Thanks for coming through as always with that thorough, detailed, and somehow still digestible info as always, bud!
One note for this and GT4; when I emulate them (playing with a Dualshock 4) I like to map throttle and brake to L2/R2 (or whatever the equivalent triggers are); you can tweak the deadzones in your emu's settings and have pressure sensitivity without the awkwardness of using a stick as throttle. Love the guides btw, plan on trying to replay GT2 with the last one you put out!
Thank you! Yep, there's also some codes by Silent to adjust the trigger sensitivity here: cookieplmonster.github.io/mods/gran-turismo-3/
very impressive bro, you’re very expert about this historic game
Thank you!
this was my childhood game and i found an interesting route:
you can get a rally car by getting all golds or when you saved up the money and do all the rallying. after that you get the escudo and can basically win almost everything with it
or you can get an mx5 and do the endurance race. with a 25% chance you get a f1 car (or you will get trolled with another mx5) and some decent money
GT3 was the first game I ever owned. I had inadvertently used the 'gear trick' as a kid to lengthen gears but had no knowledge of how to use it properly. I was aware of the oil change modifier but had no idea about the engine break-in and wear mechanics! Wonder why these are seemingly absent from GT4, they add depth to the game IMO.
This guide helped me appreciate car setups and how it can make or break drivability. Thank you for putting the effort into making it accessible and using practical examples to explain how tuning changes affect car handling. Looking forward to more guides!
Thank you! Yeah, I had no idea about engine break-in or engine wear either until I started doing research for this guide. They removed engine break-in in 4, but engine wear still applies after 800km / 504 miles. It means that all used cars will have worn engines (plus reduced rigidity), except the rare 10km mileage ones. I guess they added engine break-in in 3 so prize cars would be more desirable, but they never actually explained it anywhere so most people don't know about it. Glad the guide was able to help!
@@TeaKanji Does this mean we'll see a GT4 ultimate guide in future? 🤔
@@shanebundy2855 Likely so yeah. I have a B licence starting route planned out, and I think I have an idea of how the guide will be structured. The main thing I want to figure out is A-spec and B-spec points, since I think it's interesting how much strategy goes into 200 A-spec points in every race. The fastest process of levelling up your B-spec driver is pretty insane as well. Other than that, need to figure out tuning stuff and how much rigidity upgrades can affect the car.
this is helping me out so much with the license tests, thank you man
also goddamn that transition at 0:16 - perfection
Man. Grew up on this game. Tried gear trick on one of my favorite cars and it runs like a dream
I must not be built for these games because the race at 12:12, following the guide, was not easy. I couldn't even get to 2nd...
Out of every mainline GT title, GT3 is the one that i never managed to get that far in the career mode. I've beaten several beginners event, the Roadster endurance race and finished all of the license including golding the B license but otherwise, i was pretty much stuck.
I learned quite a lot from your guide. Thank you so much
Glad I was able to help!
im loving your remix of Just a Day! it's beautiful and sounds like it comes straight out of a Kingdom Hearts game
Thank you! I never thought about that, but I hear where you're coming from; KH2 was another huge childhood game for me.
Some trivia about the remix: I made two different versions, one with a drum beat and the other with a Rhodes e-piano. I went with the latter since it fit the tone of the intro a lot better. My main reference was Keane's cover of U2's With or Without You, the Rhodes on that song is beautiful and I wanted to capture the same vibe. I was also listening to Nightdriver's Lullaby by Lauren Estes a lot at the time and it ended up sounding very similar to that. I realized after I made the track though that I accidentally made it sound like Britney Spears's Everytime, oops.
Still trying to figure out how I'll remix Moon Over The Castle and/or Reason is Treason for my GT4 guide when that comes out. That's going to be a task and a half.
@@TeaKanji whichever way you choose to go for the remix, you're gonna crush it
i heard the My Favourite Game remix from your GT2 guide as well. that was also REALLY good.
Ah, glad you liked that one as well! I guess I'll probably end up doing something orchestral again, will decide when the time comes. Hopefully it won't disappoint.
OMG the trick to ensure the prize car from the roulette is the best thing ever.
So... In theory, you can save all the prize cars in a different save slot and still load the original save. This will allow you to beat the last race of the event and keep the 100% win ratio if you want, while still able to trade the prize cars back to you.
PS: as a Brazilian, seeing the F094/S, and knowing it was the car Senna was driving in 1994, hits like a punch in the stomach.
@@Filsantos86 como assim mano? poderia me explicar melhor? por que quero todos carros dos prêmios e mantar as vitorias em 100%
@@gabxln você faz como ele explicou no vídeo: salva antes da última corrida, pega o carro que você ganhou, transfere pra outro Memory Card e carrega o save pra tentar pegar outro carro. Depois que você transferir os 4 carros pro outro Memory Card, você carrega o save de novo só que dessa vez corre e vence a última corrida. O carro que você ganhar por último não importa, pois você já vai ter transferido todos antes. E assim mantém os 100%.
Finding out I don't need to get gold in the licence tests for 100% is the best feeling ever, I would not have any fun trying to grind them for that. I just see them as some good advice but mostly a road block. I came here to do racing not fucking do one corner over and over again to perfection and drive in a straight line and brake at the right time . But otherwise fantastic guide . This deserves more views. Please do a guide for Gran Turismo 4! ( I'm sure you were already planning to)
Thank you! Hehe, yeah, Polyphony weren't playing around with some of those gold times, especially on tests like A-7. Took me over an hour to get gold on that one. I do appreciate that they turned off ASM and TCS for most of the tests so you could learn the physics though. B-8 is brutal but I learned a lot about how the game handles weight transfer from that test alone.
Can't say for sure when the GT4 guide will come, but I'm doing research into it right now.
Golding all the license tests is so much fun, it’s nice it’s optional but I always replay GT2-3 and I have a great time doing the license tests
@@reacts yea but how about the Toyota gt1 test? Getting gold for that is pure hell
I'm about to completely finish Gran Turismo 3 (other than getting gold in the licences because as you pointed out on PAL it's like impossible) for the very FIRST time and i've owned the game for over 21 years. I started this save file when Covid first hit in Australia and everyone was freaking out and I got laid off work in March 2020. I couldn't believe how much more enjoyable and 'easy' I found the game after coming back to it after a long back and honing my driving skills as an F1 League Racer.
I raced through the Beginner and Amateur League and all the licence tests and that was basically where I left it. Our first covid restrictions lifted, I went back to work and I didn't have time to play the game but I also came to a crossroads. When I picked up the game again a few months back I decided to completely bypass the Professional League (recommended!) and left it till last. I did all the Endurance Races and from there I picked up some great cars (including the F1 cars) and from that moment the game is pretty easy. After doing all them, I did the Rally events and then tacked the Professional League.
For the record the Professional League is a waste of time in my opinion and not needed, the races are wayyyy too long and repetitive and the tyre wear factor is annoying. But yeah leaving the Professional League last and doing the Endurances races as early as I could got me in a position to finish the game. Once you get the F1 car the races and championships are yours to win.
I watched every minute of this guide even though I don't even own gt3 lol, I've already seen your gt2 guide and it was incredibly interesting and accurate, keep up the good work, love your content.
Thank you! Hehe, glad it was interesting enough to watch.
It was only a couple months ago that I discovered on my own how much easier buying the MX-5 as your starter car is, due to its power basically doubling with a basic turbo. I always used to buy the Trueno instead and thought GT3's early game was a complete slog, now I just breezed through it without having to repeat a single event for money.
Now instead it was GT4 where I struggled for money in the early game because I wanted to avoid abusing the obvious "get A license, beat Capri Rally, get rich" method. :D
The Miata really is the best choice as your starter car (1.8L version) because not only is it 100cr less than the 1.6L version but is a way better platform to build from opposed to the lame FWD cars available (Beetle, PT Crapper, Vitz, Demio, Mira TR-XX) all of which require a substantial amount of money to make them competitive. Aside from that the Miata is VERY responsive to turbo tuning (stage 1 will practically double the power output like you said) which in turn makes the car widely useable in a number of races both early on and the latter. I've done many playthroughs over the years and will only use the Miata 1.8L as a starter car.
Very helpful and informative video! I had no idea about engine break-in and reverse shifting. The advice about ASM mostly just slowing you down is useful too, thanks!
Happy to help!
I've found your channel after this video (because right now I am playing GT3) and watching this has been useful and lovely, your channel is so dedicated and I can't thank you enough for your effort on it. Keep on working
Thank you, glad you appreciate it! Plenty more to come in the future.
saw this recommended, and the music box version of Just a Day immediately made me nostalgic, gotta fish out my PS2 and hope my disc still works
Great guide bud// I know you've been years of dedicated play to produce this and it is excellent// for real, very well done// thank you kindly and have a great day
Thank you!
What a guide! Just landed me a R390, toyota gt1 and 787b within the first 15% of completion. Started with the mx5 method. Then used the evo to win the European championship for the Vertigo race car. Used that in the Pro league GT All Stars to win the R390. Then the R390 in pro Dream car championship for the Toyota Gt1. Then wheelied my way at 2000kph in Like the Wind for the 787b! Laughing how easy it was considering it was months on end when I was little 😂
Thank you, glad it worked out! Making a beeline for the LM prototypes was a good move. The R390 is my favourite, though the 787b has ridiculously low tyre wear. Sounds like you're all set to blast through GT Mode.
The intro brought a nostalic tear to my eye. Well done 🥲
Thank you, glad you liked it!
Not sure if this is covered or how many y'all know this. Still watching. But, the fastest car I ever encountered and built on this game is the 1998 or 2nd version worth 43,000 credits of the Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4. When I first got this game back in the day, I spent 3 months fine tuning it with every upgrade available and perameter. It had 1065hp I believe and for example starting in 6th on the test track, I could get to turn one before the 5th place car got to the place where number 1 started. If I had to estimate as it's been almost 20 years, it would do 0-60 in at the most 3 seconds. It had tunes for ralley and racing. Any race I could enter it was a guaranteed win. Fastest I could get it to go and still launched the same was 273mph before I ran out of track on max speed and still do 0 to 60 in under 3 seconds. That is the car I am working toward now.
It could beat the escudo, Toyota race car and anything you put it against. Handled like a rocket sled on rails.
Would love to see your tune on that once you get it sorted!
Fantastic! So, so detailed and incredibly helpful.
Although I still don't understand all of it, but I feel that this guide is the best!
I have to follow it slowly though.
No way you only have 300 subs, you put in a lot of effort, you deserve a lot more.
Ah, thank you! The channel is less than a year old so I guess it's still growing. Thanks for subscribing!
Wow just wow👏👏
What a detailed guide😮😮😮😍😍😍
You can't imagine how much your guide helped me , you are my hero from now on😊😊😊🤘🏻🤘🏻
Right now I'm grinding GT3 to finish it , i hope you continue making these fantastic guides and love to watch your GT4 ultimate guide someday , can't wait for it😍😍😍😍🤗🤗
Glad to hear that it helped! Best of luck finishing GT3, hopefully the GT4 guide won't disappoint.
@@TeaKanji (It did not.)
I played this so much back in the days. great physics / gameplay, and amazing OST
Also, thank you for the upload, highly appreciated!
Thank you for the guide mate! Been playing GT3 on and off since childhood and this video made me get back into it. I never understood the tuning mechanic, so I never used it. I am amazed at how an important role it plays. I always just played the beginner league and a little bit of amateur afterwards, so it was very interesting to switch up the approach.
I would suggest putting time stamps on the video for ease of navigation. Plus, it would be nice to have some "baseline" tuning metrics for the fully customizable suspension/LSD.
Thanks so much for your work!
Thank you so much for this video. It's a work of art and passion.
Glad you enjoyed it, thank you!
Great work.
Can‘t wait for the Gran Turismo 4 guide!
It's been so many years since the last time I played this game! GT4 added so much, it overshadowed this one by a lot! I nearly want to dust off my PS2 and discovering the game just like I was when I was an early teen.
I like how you suggest the three routes and pointing up the weaknesses of the game (difficulty adj., the trade trick, the wheelie...) suggesting the game have been rushed (it has only been two years between GT2 and GT3?).
Anyhow, this is a beautiful guide! There is plenty of things I learned. You deserve a sub, sir!
(ps: GT1 and GT4 guide soon?)
Thank you! Yeah, GT4 addressed a lot of this game's issues (easier early game, more variety, more cars etc.) but GT3 has such a unique vibe. Once you know what you're doing, it's a very fun time. Definitely it had been rushed in the sense that there's not many cars to choose from, but I think the game experience and atmosphere was fully realized. Even with the numerous new glitches, they did fix a lot of GT2's issues as well; the ride height trick was patched out for example.
GT4 guide is in the works, doing research into it at the moment. I've thought about a GT1 guide for a while but I just have no idea what to talk about. The tuning is very limited and there doesn't seem to be a way to fix instability caused by turning while braking. While the gear trick didn't exist yet, you can still create ridiculously close gears without it. Just feels like GT2 improved on GT1's handling in almost every way.
Thank you for this masterpiece of a guide.
This video is amazing and so is the guide, I made a copy of it to reference while I play. I just bought GT3 and have never played it before so this is a great way to start. Like having a coach in the game. Any way we can get a narrated version of these videos?
a7 was pain!!! struggled for 4 days with an emulator, even with 1/2 speed hacks it required a dead perfect drift. i was just 1ms under the gold time, but managed to get it 50+ times just 1-3ms over
Rly good guide, actually found it 2 weeks ago but havent commented yet
Awesome. See someone with so much love for the same game I love make me fell so good. Tnks ❤❤
Man this is awesome!!!!! your guide is so helpfull.You done a great thing.I'm struggling with license S-8 at least a month more or less just to gain bronze,i dont now how anymore.
My only concern is I should have seen this video 20 years ago 😢
I was not prepared for how challenging the licenses are. GT2 licenses are a cakewalk in comparison!
Absolutely yeah, just this evening I revisited a few tests in the I-B and I-A licences and I wasn't even close to gold in many of them. Feels like PD were really banking on people using the DualShock 2's pressure-sensitive buttons, and they made the test times more difficult as a result.
@@TeaKanji heh I'm not even targetting gold, bronze itself is quite a challenge sometimes. I really got to bond with that Mine's R34 in IA-8 lmao what a beaut
I was wondering why the gold S license route wasn't a thing but i guess if you're taking PAL into consideration that 1:27.800 Monaco on S-8 is a tall order even with reverse shifting and MT trickery.
Though even in your handbook you do not mention the route I use specifically (All gold B > all licenses > Rodster Endurance w/ stock Miata LS > buy Viper GTS > Trial Mountain Endurance > Pro PD cup > tune said Viper GTS > Like the Wind) gets you many chances at a race car with low effort and even if you somehow fail you get a couple guaranteed backups (Mine's Skyline from Trial Mountain Endurance into pro Red Emblem and obviously Viper into NA / Stars and Stripes / FR / Like the Wind)
I'm currently in a lowest amount of money spent run, which unlike no buy runs does not actually spend money on oil changes / tires / parts and it interesting just how far you have to go for some races just to not spend anything, though thankfully nothing quite as horrible as in GT4 where you have to win the British Lightweight Series in a stock Ginetta G4 (if it sounds horrible, that's because it is).
You gold the B licence, get all the other licences, then do two endurances and Polyphony Digital Cup right at the start of each playthrough? Your patience is unfathomable. I mean, you're right that it's a way to get a few strong cars and a bunch of credits I guess, but two endurances back-to-back, followed by one of the longest events in the game, is a very tough sell in a guide like this. Especially when you can obtain the GT-One road car later on in the playthrough to clear them quickly with.
For the handbook routes, I mainly focused on consistency, time and casual-friendliness. Golding the S licence would indeed be 'optimal' over the other starting routes, but personally I don't find fun in doing nothing but grinding out licences for the first couple hours, and I didn't want to encourage others to do the same. More power to you of course if that's what you enjoy. GT3 already has a huge stigma around its early game being extremely grindy and/or drawn out, so I wanted to get around that by showing that you can get a strong car with only two licences and 6-10 short races done.
The lowest-amount-spent run seems interesting though, did you check out Sough's run? He did a write-up on GTPlanet called "100% completion in under 200k". Some of the races like Lightweight K race 3 against boosted AI sounded very painful. I tried doing British Lightweight with the stock G4 in preparation for my GT4 guide, so yep, I can imagine how painful that Apricot Hill race was.
@@TeaKanji
>You gold the B licence, get all the other licences, then do two endurances and Polyphony Digital Cup right at the start of each playthrough?
Well i used to before I went with the "Gold every license" idea
But really the idea I like with that series of race is that you do licenses then you have a race that's not hard on a circuit that's not hard with a car that's not hard to get back in the swing of things then you have a race that's not hard with a circuit that is somewhat hard on a car that is very hard to actually start focusing on your driving.
PD cup is really only if i didn't get the cool stuff on either of the endurance races because there I'm guaranteed something really cool regardless.
> GT3 already has a huge stigma around its early game being extremely grindy and/or drawn out
I mean the Pro series definitely are a huge part of that which is why I like mixing it with the rest of the game instead of having to do this huge block of long and difficult races right at the end
>The lowest-amount-spent run seems interesting though, did you check out Sough's run? He did a write-up on GTPlanet called "100% completion in under 200k".
I hadn't and it seems like he's got the challenge on lock because I can't see any way to save much on his run.
Me, when my uncle gave me the Game back in 2002
"Oh, cool i won a racing car!"
*Sets Gears to the absolute MAX because the car goes faaast!*
Little did i know
Fantastic guide thank you so much. Enjoying GT7 with a wheel lately has made me play again GT3 on steam deck oled and that career mode is fantastic. Your guide is exactly what I needed. Just a question: do you think default controller layout without pressure sensitive button is bad? Or good enough (not sure if I should force myself to get used to stick for throttle)
It's good enough if you're running TCS, and even without it, I've been able to get golds in most tests without issue without pressure-sensitive buttons. You can usually make up for the lack of throttle control by other means (gear setup, keeping the car in a high gear etc.). Fully analog steering is quite satisfying though and makes some corners way easier to half-throttle through.
It's a brilliant guide, thank you.
Thanks for this video, i had hard time beating the route 11 with the mx-5, by setting suspensions and long 1th 2nd gears i managed to do it. I still need to digest all the suspensions tuning, for now i'm replicating your advices but i'm not sure what i'm doing.
Glad to hear! There's a breakdown of each setting in the handbook, but yeah, testing stuff out and seeing what works and doesn't work is the best way to learn. Spring and stabiliser settings can make a big difference for making cars feel less floaty and more stable, while raising the front height and lowering the rear can move the car's weight balance back for more rear wheel traction.
I just start to play this so this really helps❤
Hands down the best guide out there, appreciate the work you put in.
But I was wondering if you have a tune setup for the Skyline R-34 V-spec II, it's my favourite JDM car and your tuning setups seem to agree with me :)
Thank you! Sure thing, I'm a bit out-of-practice with GT3 tuning at the moment, but I had a go at it. All power upgrades with turbo stage 2, no VCD controller or LSD, all other upgrades:
tyres: medium-hard / medium
springs: 7.2 / 8.8
ride height: 112 / 86
dampers [B + R]: 2 / 7
camber: 1.8 / 1.4
toe: 0 / 0
stabilisers: 7 / 7
brake balance: 18 / 10
gears: gear trick, max final gear
downforce: 0.29 / 0.55
ASM: 0
TCS: 1
The car should have more than enough power for Red Emblem Professional while being able to do 5-lap stints, the stage 3 and 4 turbo are overkill IMO since it just can't handle that much torque without stretching out the gears to a ridiculous amount. Hope that helps.
Great work, this is a fantastic guide
Thank you!
it might be dumb question to ask but how do i actually set the controls for shifting up and down? While I see the shift down option in the settings (assigned to triangle by default), I Can't find shift up option? Why's that?
The NTSC-J prize car RNG trick doesn't work if you go into qualifying before the race - just learned it the hard way!
I won the Roadster Endurance event, went into the option menu once and then exited with triangle. I was trying to get the F688/S (the bottom car in the roulette), but instead won the car on the left: a MX5 1.8 RS in Sparkle Green.
I don't know if you've seen this comment now, but I think that it works correctly and you have 2 mistakes.
Please look at Miyakoshi's website (written in Japanese) linked in TeaKanji's the Ultimete Guide handbook.
1. different of roulette patterns
Miyakoshi showed 3 roulette patterns:
- for championship
- for endurance (without Lagna Seca)
- Lagna Seca 200 Miles only works
In championship race, ”going into option menu once” makes deciding the bottom car in roulette. But you participated in an endurance race, you should pay attention to the different of roulette patterns.
2. qualifying once = option menu 4 times
You said "doesn't work if you go into qualifying". You are partially correct.
To be more precise, qualifying entering & exiting once is equivalent to the option menu entering & exiting 4 times, explains Miyakoshi.
You went into qualifying once, and then ran Roadster endurance, and then went into the option menu once.
Let's check Miyakoshi's sheet where "roulette pattern of endurance race (without Lagna Seca)" and "the option menu 5 times" intersect. The answer is "the left car in roulette". Thus, you were guaranteed to get the green NB Roadster(Miata).
In qualifying, it works the same whether you record a lap time or exit the moment you enter. This will save you time when you try to go into the option menu multiple times.
Used well, you can specify not only the type of car you want but also your favorite color. For F1 cars, LM race cars or Speed 12 etc.
Also see this closed website:
web.archive.org/web/20191217114328/g-unlimited.com/gt3/
Dude i've played GT3 since i was a kid, not constantly tho, but i learn like 70% of the game from ur vid damn. I wish i knew it sooner, i could be that cool kid at school who knows bout these stuffs (after you tho)
Oh and for emulator boys, u can use save states before pressing "OK" on the championship prize menu to reroll the prize car just in case any1 doesn't know
Hehe, glad I was able to help! Yep, save stating works for endurances as well if you do it on the race results screen.
@@TeaKanji Yo Tea, can you make a bite size video that only shows the tuning part on each Gran Turismo? Better yet if you can make it for each part (suspension, brakes, transmission, etc) If you can make it into a single vid it would be great too, just a thought.
and do you have a discord server? Maybe u wanna make it where we can share and QnA on our builds, might be good for building ur community!
Hmm, I don't have a PS3 set up right now though so I would only be able to do it for the PS1 and PS2 games. I'd rather get a bit more in-depth than just showing the parts as well, and it's kind of hard to go from game to game showing how each part works and how to tune them all, especially when stuff like brake balance differs wildly between games.
I don't have a Discord server right now, I feel like having to own and moderate a server on top of everything else would just distract me right now. Maybe in the future though.
45:08
Can emulator save states suffice or it's strictly the game save ?
On PAL and NTSC-U, yeah, you can save state on the screen before the roulette and the car will be different each time. NTSC-J doesn't work that way and requires some extra manipulation.
Hi Kanji, would you kindly upload the raw video as a file somewhere? UA-cam compresses a lot the videos and I'd love to store this video somewhere else offline just in case it gets deleted or something else happens in the best quality possible. Thank you in advance.
Sure thing, added the link at the bottom of the description. Thanks for offering to preserve the video!
@@TeaKanji I forgot to mention that if you could do the same for the GT2 too, since I think it deserves to be properly preserved. Thank you in advance once again :)
That one's up on its own description now too. Thanks!
that's a nice tutorial and all, but i need help with another begining route, the one with the Panoz Esperante. i managed to unlock it but what i can i do to progress from here?
You can do pretty much whatever you want. While it's a below-average race car, it's still a race car, and can compete in almost any event.
If you want my recommendation, enter the German Touring Car Race and reset the last race until you get the RUF 3400S. WIth that, you're pretty much sorted for the rest of the playthrough. Alternatively, you can just sell the Panoz and buy any car you want. You can get another (better) race car from the American or European championships anyway.
@@TeaKanji maybe i should start a cult with this car :)
Been watching your gt guide series and how would this video differentiate with a wheel and pedals on the games? I know you mention controllers a lot but id imagine tuning would be much different with a wheel and pedal setup? I'm on original hardware fyi.
For GT1 through GT3, I'd say almost all of it of it would stay the same. You do have the advantage of much better throttle control than a controller user though, so setting TCS to 0 becomes more reasonable in GT3. It's GT4 where you'd be at much more of an advantage with a wheel, as wheelspin when launching and exiting corners is much more prevalent. With good throttle control, you can run slightly shorter gears and get faster launches by half-throttling with 0 TCS. Can tune cars more towards oversteer too as making slight turns is easier than with a controller.
I haven't checked out the guide (Yet) but maybe you can upload your version of the song in the intro? It's incredible feels so calming and beautiful. If not then no problem at all. Sorry that I'm asking without even watching the video.
Glad you liked the intro music! I uploaded it to SoundCloud just now and put a link to it in the description.
@@TeaKanji what a legend thatnk you very much. That's a sub too.
@@PlayingSouls happy to help, thanks for subscribing!
cars
they eat ice cream
they hug and give happiness
Do you have settings for the Motor Sport Elise and the Spoon S2000? For the Elise Trophy and Spider & Roadster PL, respectively. I'm not sure if this is a NTSC-U thing, but the Motor Sport cannot enter the Spider & Roadster event (which is weird since it is normally one of the opponents). The Motor Sport is really hard to drive on the default settings. The car oversteers way too much. The Spider & Roadster PL has been a headache for me too, as the AI never pits, so I can't pit either, but I can't find good settings to compensate for the bad tires.
I revisited the tune I used for the Motor Sport Elise, made some adjustments, and here it is:
springs: 9.0 / 7.5
ride height: 115 / 76
dampers [B + R]: 5 / 5
camber: 4.4 / 2.2
toe: 0 / 0
stabilisers: 5 / 6
brake balance: 14 / 4
LSD (I, A, D): 60, 10, 60
Full gear trick with close gears, all upgrades with stage 2 turbo (overkill for Elise Trophy, can go for NA tuning or stage 1 turbo instead, will make the car easier to handle), medium racing tyres on front and rear. The rear tyres will get pretty cooked up by lap 4 or so, but the front tyres should keep the car together and you can pit on lap 5. I used TCS 1, but the car has pretty good traction and likely doesn't need it. Tweak the front camber if the car feels understeery or still feels too twitchy.
I'll get around to the Spoon S2000 in the next day or two, just got back home from family and I've work in the morning. Bear in mind I'm very rusty with GT3 after playing 2 for so long, so you might need to make a few adjustments of your own.
@@TeaKanji You really should add those settings to your book guide. That Elise Trophy event is an absolutely nightmare without a proper tune.
For the S2000, I end up using the same settings as the Race Car version of it. Maybe not ideal, but still much better than the default settings. It worked fine. But for some reason the Trial Mountain race of Spider & Roadsters PL is way harder than the other two, and the Motor Sport Elise race all 10 full laps without pitting once. I had to equip Hard Racing tires for a no pit race in order to win.
@@TeaKanji Btw, do you happen to have rally settings for the Escudo? I tried to follow you rally tuning guide, but the Escudo seems to behave very differently from the other cars. I can still easily beat any rally event with it due to how fast it is, but it is almost impossible to control it properly.
How important is reverse shifting? I'll be playing the game using a steering wheel and afaik i only have the four face buttons that i can bind reverse to. Also thanks again for the guides you've made!!
It's useful if you're doing difficult events without many upgrades like the Miata route does, or if you want to make the licence tests a bit easier. It's not essential, but it's fun and adds a new challenge of doing the fastest possible reverse taps for best acceleration. Unfortunate if you can't remap it, but not a massive loss, people have made do without it for nearly two decades. Glad you enjoyed the guides!
very interesting fact about that „reverse shift“, does this exist in later gt games too?
It also exists in GT Concept and GT4 Prologue, but it was patched out for GT4. However, you can get the same type of shift in GT4 with non-FF cars if you tap handbrake right as you're about to gear up. The timing is quite strict and you need to try and press handbrake as little as possible so the car doesn't slow down, but it can give a small acceleration boost to cars with slow gear shifts. Here's a video showing how it works: ua-cam.com/video/WW2ESCJu-Ws/v-deo.html
@@TeaKanji about the e brake i do already know. In older gt games you could handbrake tap the launch aswell so it gets more grip + the „taps“ while shifting. Gt6 was the last one with tapping. In gt7 it works too - just different.
Dear Kanji, I have two questions for you.
First, is there any slider where I can increase the engine sound so I can hear it trough the music and tyre screeching?
And second, is there any way to combat GT3's floaty controlls or just a get used to it?
Hi there, hmm, I don't know of any way to increase the engine sound without also increasing the rest of the SFX, sorry about that. Maybe it's possible with modding or GameShark codes but not sure.
For reducing floatiness, the main ways are stiffening the car's springs and stabilisers. Even on cars that oversteer, you'll want to stiffen both the front and rear springs to mitigate body roll. Between 4 - 6 stabilisers both sides should help also. You should feel the car drift off less as you make slight inputs. Also, for FR's, MR's and 4WD's, maxing the front height and lowering the rear height helps a lot with cornering stability while also giving the car a tighter turn radius.
Even then though, GT3's handling is probably the heaviest of the entire series. They really amped up the effects of weight transfer after GT2, so you constantly need to be thinking about where the car's weight is as you brake and turn into corners. It'll take a while to get used to for sure.
@@TeaKanji
I definitly get them stabilizers then, because it's so damn annoying that even I move the stick a bit, the whole car wants to go to into wall, not just straighten out. I even searched for sensitivity option what we actually have in GT5 for example, but no luck
Yeah, the semi-racing kit lets you raise the stabilisers to 4 each side, so it's a nice upgrade on a budget if you can't afford the custom kit. There's analog sensitivity options if you're playing on PCSX2, but unfortunately not on original hardware.
Dude how do you take corners so well everytime I try I have to hard press the brake button basically putting my car to a halt or just let x go and wish for the best
I usually brake quite late, and tap the brakes mid-corner if I need to regulate the car's speed a bit more. I play GT2 a lot, and GT3's handling is quite similar except cars roll more and have less grip, so I suppose some skill carried over from game to game.
So for the tires part I accidentally bought the 17,000 Miata mx5 and it doesn’t have a medium hard tire so I bought medium slick since that’s what took that tires spot are they the same thing but named differently or do the slick tires make me more slippery on the track
Oh, "medium hard" and "medium slick" are the same thing, the "slicks" were just a localisation change for NTSC-U for some reason.
Gran Turismo 3: A-Spec holds a special place in my heart. And for a strange reason, I have a desire to play it again. So this weekend, I will make that happen. On original hardware, of course. PAL-version here. You're all rooting for me, right? 😃
All the best, hope it's as good as you remember!
This game is still beautiful ❤️
thankyou for this, much apreciated :)
Can someone help ?
Basically i did the miata route, managed to beat the first spider and roadster race after a few upgrades, and then i realized the car couldn't keep up in the na cup at all, so i gave it a turbo stage 1 upgrade, and now it refuses to let me enter the na cup even though my car is naturally aspirated
Enter a free run from the garage (or an event with no entry restrictions like Sunday Cup), enter the car settings, then unequip the turbo in the Change Parts section.
@@TeaKanjithanks for the help but there's one big problem, the car is not nearly fast enough to keep up in the na cup, the only car the Miata with these upgrades can keep up to is the 328ci, i honestly don't know how you managed to beat it in the video, considering literally every car in the lineup is about 5x faster than you
Great guides and music - do you have a playlist on spotify/youtube?
Thank you! I used to keep Spotify playlists but I haven't updated them in a while. I mostly listen to full albums these days.
If you like the style of music I use, there's a lot of great Japanese jazz fusion out there worth checking out. Casiopea, T-Square and Masayoshi Takanaka were added to Spotify recently, they're some of the best 80's fusion acts. A friend of mine, Leader of the Bunch, runs a UA-cam channel where he uploads hour-long mixes of J-Jazz, those are well worth checking out too.
@@TeaKanji Fantastic, many thanks. I picked up a few of the Type 4 tracks too, always looking for more of the same. 👍
Oh, actually, if you like that sort of 90's lounge-ish stuff, then definitely check out Stereolab (Dots and Loops), Everything But The Girl (Walking Wounded, Temperamental), Underworld (Second Toughest in the Infants, Beaucoup Fish) and St Germain (Tourist). Some of my all-time favourite albums for vibing out.
Just recently bought a ps2 again and have GT3 and 4. How are you getting 1080p res with your game? I have a AV to HDMI converter but the graphics are still as if I was playing in 2005 lmao
Oh, I recorded all the footage for the guide using PCSX2. The 1080p upscaling is nice, but the emulator feels like it's constantly dropping frames (you can notice stutters at certain points in both the footage and the backgrounds). For GT4, if you're playing on a HD TV with an NTSC copy, you can set the game to 480p in the screen settings and it'll look a lot sharper.
You should use a component cable
Great work.
Does increasing gear prevent wheelspin? l learnt this trick by watching a speed 12 guide on Forza horizon and then tried it on Gran turismo 2 with Speed 12. l wouldn't wheelspin ever if l was on fourth gear, so the car would start a bit slow but at least it had stable handling. That car is the monster of Gran Turismo, supreme speed and acceleration at the cost of handling
Yes absolutely, it's a big reason why launching in 2nd gear is optimal for a bunch of the B licence tests. Ideally though, you'd want to set up the gears as well so 2nd and 3rd, if not 1st as well, are usable without wheelspin. The gear trick helps with that, and also reduces the RPM drops between gears so you can keep the car at peak RPM's more often.
This is a really good guide :)
Too bad im terrible at controlling the miata, maybe its the traction or im awful but it feels so slippery even with upgrades, might just do amateur 80s cup for better car or grind for one cuz oof
Thank you! Yeah, that's kind of a consequence of adding so much power to a car with such a small chassis and tyres. Raising TCS up to 3 will help a bit, or setting the front height to max and rear to min so there's more weight on the rear wheels for better traction.
@@TeaKanji ill have to keep trying different settings and skill to beat turbo amateur and escape early game, then beat USA amateur to get camaro race car route n go from there
@@HELLRAISER02 If you save up 20-26k credits, you can buy either a Civic or Integra Type R and do Type R Meeting Beginner. Shouldn't need any upgrades besides maybe an oil change and flywheel to win it, and it'll give you 35k credits and a prize car worth either 7.5k or 75k depending on whether you're playing NTSC-U or PAL. If you go for the Integra, you can keep using it for FF Beginner, FF Amateur and NA Amateur as well. That's probably the easiest way if you don't want to keep using the Miata.
@@TeaKanji hmm, fair, regardless of how i go about it, just gotta get a race car or something, could go miata route, type R route, or do my old 5th grader route of grinding till i get money for an NSX or viper, haha, slow but i love those cars
What do you think, if we suppose that I'm never going to change any suspension settings, does it make a difference to buy fully customizable one? Are the default settings themselves any different between sport suspension and full customizable suspension, or they're the same and the custom one just gives you ability to change them?
I can't say for certain what the car's true "default settings" are, but if it's anything like GT2, it's 1 dampers, 1 stabilisers and 0 camber. Spring rates are the same as the default ones when you buy the fully custom suspension.
The camber, dampers and stabilisers are automatically set when you buy a suspension kit. Honestly I would always recommend making *some* adjustments, even if you don't think the car needs any. A low ride height, at least 1.0 of camber on both sides (ideally between 2.0 and 3.0) and stabilisers to 4 / 4 or higher will help the car feel a lot tighter and keep traction better in corners.
I'm at about 25% completion of the game and there are some questions I want to make:
First, are you supposed to not use the 6th gear after doing the gear trick? I didn't test with all cars, but I did the gear trick with the 1002hp Altezza LM, but when the car reaches the last gear, it actually loses speed. At first I thought it was a problem with the automatic transmission, but the same thing happens on manual. Of course, the car only ever reaches the 6th gear on courses like the Test Track, but since I play mostly on automatic, for those races, I need to switch to manual and never gear up above the 5th gear. It's not a big problem, I just think it is odd.
Second, are there any drawbacks in using Super Soft Racing Tires on the events that doesn't have tire wear? I know it may be better to stick with the harder tires so you get used to car playing like that, and of course there's the cost of the tires. But assuming I have the money to spare, and don't want to ever use the car on any event with tire wear, are the Super Soft the best option?
1: it depends on the car, as some cars have less drag and wind resistance than others. Did you reduce both the front and rear downforce before doing the Test Course races? That should partly fix the car not accelerating in 6th gear, at least from my testing. Just need to remember to increase it again afterwards.
2: nope, no downside to super softs in races without tyre wear. That includes all of the Beginner league, most of the Amateur league and the wet races in the Rally league. There's only a slight grip increase between softs and super softs though, so softs are probably better on a budget.
@@TeaKanji I just read the book and found out both questions were already answered there lol. Sorry, my bad.
On a side note, I almost lost my mind trying to get Gold on R-6. People talk about A-7, but that one was much easier for me; it requires perfect execution, but it is only one turn. R-6 requires near perfect execution of 4 U turns in a row, in a rally course. That thing is hell.
@Filipe Lima Here's a quick setup I threw together for the Escudo with the stock turbo, feels pretty good to me:
springs: 6.0 / 4.0
ride height: 160 / 100
dampers [B + R]: 3 / 3
camber: 4.0 / 1.0
toe: 0 / 0
stabilisers: 2 / 2
brake balance: 16 / 14
LSD initial: 10 / 20
LSD accel: 10 / 20
LSD decel: 5 / 15
downforce: 0.85 / 0.85
VCD: 35%
Leave the final gear at around 3.000 after doing the gear trick so 1st gear isn't too slow.
@@TeaKanji Thank you so much! The car is still very hard to control, but it feels much more fun to drive with those settings.
@@TeaKanji hey, I just noticed something. In your guide you mention the IA-4 license test being harder to gold on NTSC. Everywhere I search at Google mentions 0:32.000 as the target time on NTSC, and 0:32.200 on PAL, but I have the NTSC version of the game and the target time for gold is the same as PAL. Mine is the Greatest Hits version, so maybe they changed the time for that version? You could check it on an emulator if you have interest. I can’t because I play on real hardware and my computer can’t handle PS2 emulation. I would say I was lucky but miraculously I end up getting a sub 32 time anyway lol.
I was todays years old when i found out you can customize everything. I always upgraded and left the car as is
Will you release a GT5 guide sometime?
If I have the resources then maybe, but I don't have a capture card and PS3 emulation is still being worked on. I guess there's a few events in particular I could cover, like the X2010 trials and the Alfa 8C at Eiger, though I think most things like tuning will be covered in my upcoming GT4 guide. Might be a good while before I get around to a GT5 guide unfortunately.
I'm back again.
I would like to state that the cheaper of the starter MX5's is the 1993 model, which has the 1.8 liter engine, while the one that cost 17,000 is the 1989 model, with the 1.6 liter engine
Yes, that's one of the corrections I made in the pinned comment. I thought they were in chronological order, they weren't.
@@TeaKanji I always wondered why the PAL version did not show the model years, like the NTSC version did.
Anyways, I might not be a tuning guru, but at least I know my engines.
Good for you.
new teakanji let's go!
I played GT5 for most of my time but now I put my hands on GT3 and it seems a bit more different.
Yep, cars oversteer way more and tyres lose grip very easily compared to later GT games. The early game is also a lot more brutal, which is why I wanted to spend so much time focusing on starting cars, upgrades etc. that allow you to escape it. Once you set up your car's suspension and equip racing tyres though, the handling becomes very enjoyable IMO. It feels slightly arcade-ish, not too far off from GT2, and once you embrace it for that, the game is quite the vibe.
Let me know if you've any questions and I can try to help out.
Can you give me a guide to tune my RX7 fc3s 2gen in gran Turismo 3
Do you need a tune for a casual playthrough, or a fully maxed-out tune? If it's the former, prioritize medium-hard tyres, the custom gearbox and semi-racing suspension, apply the gear trick as shown with the Miata, set the height to 150 / 116 to move the car's weight towards the back for better turning and traction, shocks to 2 / 8 for better turn-in, 1.4 / 1.4 camber for improved overall grip and 4 / 4 stabilisers to make the car feel less floaty. Maxed out, most of the same applies, except you can stiffen the rear springs with the custom suspension kit to further improve turn-in and reduce body roll, along with having extra ride height adjustment. The LSD isn't too important with this car if TCS is set to 1, as it'll make the car slightly more difficult to turn when equipped, but it can be useful with accel set to 60 and decel set to 5 if you're going for max power.
How's the gt4 guide coming along?
Almost done, just a couple sections left to do along with the intro music. This is the video ID for a small unlisted preview uploaded if you want to check it out: gUjppaw-RDI
@@TeaKanji can't seem to find it do u have a link
Edit: uploaded now!
I feel like I'm crazy. ASM and TCS seem only to have toggles, not sliders. Totally different menu UI
Ah, are you in the "options" menu, where the controller settings and everything else is? That menu has toggles for ASM and TCS, but they're for Arcade Mode only (they also don't work properly on NTSC). The sliders are in the car settings menu that you can access before you enter a race.
@@TeaKanji you got me. Thank you!
dont mind me, just leaving this timestamp here so i have a visual guide for the gear trick whenever i need it 15:58
Hehe, sure thing. Main thing to remember is to move the auto setting slider right before going left. It's a bit bugged in this game and the final gear won't work properly if you move it left straight away. Other than that, a rough ballpark of "1st left, 4th and 5th right, 2nd and 3rd somewhere in between, 6th as long as you need it to be" will do the job. Thankfully they added better visual cues in GT4.
@@TeaKanji i also set the timestamp so i could see the close gear settings before i do the gear trick too lol, i know the numbers change depending on the car but i figure if i set the yellow toggles to roughly the same spots they're at in your demonstration, it's the same diff pretty much. i mean, I'm onto the R32 portion of the run now and that's how i set its initial close gears up was by basically doing the same thing i did to the Miata and just adjusting where i needed to (which wasn't very much adjusting tbh) before doing the gear trick.
tbh, before this guide came out, i always would just download a save with all the licenses golded as well as the prize cars and a few extra decent cars but none of the races run yet, and copy it to my memory card via free mcboot and ulaunchelf, and that was my way of avoiding early-game poverty and lockout for so long. honestly, i feel like with how rough GT3 can be starting out if you take the wrong route, it's understandable when people cheat their way through the early-game.
but your guide and the Miata/R32 route actually helped me escape early-game poverty and lockout without actually needing to download a save file. so seriously, thank you for that. you must have really dove deep into the game and practiced/tested out every possible starting route to determine what the three best ones were. and considering how many events there are to enter in the early-game, that's a LOT of possible starter routes to go through. i seriously commend you on the effort and heart and hard work you poured into this to help me and every other pleb like me who gets stuck in GT3 early game hell all the time to get out of early game hell lol. thank you for that.
@@caifabe8050 ah, thank you! The core of the Miata route wasn't too difficult to figure out (it's all about NA and Turbo for those 5k / 15k payouts and the prize cars), it was mostly deciding which upgrades to buy and when. Speedrunners who buy the Miata at the start usually pick the semi-racing flywheel and go straight to NA, but I found that doing the Spider & Roadster race first helps a lot since you need as many upgrades as possible for NA Beginner race 3 and NA Amateur. I also had to go back a few times to re-budget after I found out an upgrade was better than I thought it was, like the driveshaft. The B licence route basically routed itself, much more of a straight path to the Amateur league.
Trueno route was difficult to figure out though, it's like a tightrope. You want to build up as much money as possible, which means you're on the limit in 80's Cup. It's just barely winnable with NA tuning; the turbo would be a better upgrade but it makes the car invalid for NA and it can't win race 3 without it. Doing NA race 1 for extra money makes the route much easier since you can then afford a turbo / NA stage 2, but I didn't want to make it seem like grinding was the only option. The route originally upgraded the RX-7 instead of the Trueno, but I eventually decided the Trueno was the better option since it was way cheaper, can enter all the same events and ended up with a similar power / weight ratio. It went through a lot of re-routes, along with all of the sub-routes in the handbook.
It was all a fun puzzle honestly, trying to find the 'optimal' route that doesn't involve grinding. I'm glad it paid off!
@@TeaKanji I'm on the Pro League Race of Red Emblem rn (between races 2 and 3) and I also chose to use the CR-X del Sol for the Beginner FF Challenge before selling it. i think im around 11% right now. i got there within about 9 hours but that also includes afk-time where the game was just running while i was say, making food or watching a replay or posting something on twitter or snapchat lol.
GT3 was the first video game i ever played and it still holds up as a great game 20 years after i first played it. also 20 years ago i didnt know how to play it because i was literally 3 years old lmao.
Is there going to be any more gt guides? I would like it bc i can learn about other gt games without playing them
Btw i heard the gt3 is freakin difficult, is this true?
Glad you're enjoying them! I haven't quite decided what I'm going to do next. This guide took months of research to make, and I'm probably going to relax for a bit and think about it. I think 2 and 3 were the games that most deserved a guide because 2 is broken and 3 is arguably the most difficult game in the series. The series from 4 onwards became much easier, so I'm not sure if those games need a guide like this.
3 is difficult if you don't know what you're doing at the start. The game gives you much less money and prize cars for completing events compared to 2. I got stuck as a kid and couldn't beat any events except Sunday Cup, and from reading UA-cam comments, a lot of people also met the same fate. Only a handful of the starter cars are actually viable, and you have to be careful which upgrades to buy. That's why I wanted to spend so much time on starting routes in the guide, to help people overcome it and get into the game proper.
@@TeaKanji I remember me as a kid in GT2 with Special Events completed, but the game progress was not at 100%.
I didn't even know endurances, rally, gt league existed lmao.
If you want and can do/ i suggest a video on best prize cars in gt2 since it has been a question for a long time in my case.
I always win random low powered cars, EG: Miata, Mugen bois, random compacts and i always sell them, because i didn't want to mess up my garage with random cars.
@@TRR23123 Hmm, maybe yeah, though I feel like the list would be pretty short since most prize cars can't get racing modifications. The Sileighty, Mazdaspeed Demio and Accord Type R can though and those are all pretty decent. Probably the best prize cars are the Lancia Stratos and Lotus Europa because of how fast they are despite being low-powered. The Skyline R30 Silhouette too, of course.
The starting credits for Japanese version is equivalent of 15k, so no Miata there.
Man I skipped 3 entirly and played 2 until 4 came out because we couldnt afford a used ps2. I picked it up for cheap later but found the no used cars thing to be sad and kinda game ruining for me.
hell yeah man
holy crap you wrote a BOOK on GRAN TURISMO 3??? WOW
Hehe, I did yeah. While doing research for the guide, I realized pretty early on that there was no way I could fit everything into a 60 - 75 minute video. So, I documented everything I found and put it all together in one book.
I wish you could do a full-on license test walkthrough on this game. There are more than a few tests that make me RAGE.
That piano at the beginning is beautiful
Thank you! I used two different piano VST's; the chord accompaniments were Una Corda and the main melody was Noire, both by Native Instruments.
I give up with this game. I started playing the whole series since the very first GT, trying to 100% all games and getting all golds in the license tests. So far I was successful with GT1 and GT2. Some of the tests were super hard, but it never took me more than 2 days of trying to beat the time. GT3 was going well too, until S-6... I'm trying for 1 week straight, every day, playing for hours, and no matter what I can't get it. I tried with ghost and no ghost, AT and MT, watch carefully the demo, watch tutorials on UA-cam... none of that matters. I started playing GT4 before I was done with this game because there's literally nothing else left to do. Every time I boot up this game is just to play S-6. I know you have nothing to do with it, but I just wanted to outburst. I think it's time to give up on this and just admit I don't have the skill to beat this test.
Hmm, I'm not sure what to suggest. I tried it again just now and, like S-8 later on, the car is much easier to handle if you never go below 3rd gear. If you play it safe, getting under 1:22 should be doable.
@@TeaKanji I'm not trying to get a sub 1'22, I'm trying to get sub 1'16.800 for the gold time. It's the only thing left for me to be completely done with the game. I even have all cars in the garage except the Viper GTSR Concept, which I should get after beating that test. Or maybe I should say "I would get", because I'm not sure if I'm gonna keep trying anymore.
Oh, sorry, that makes more sense now, I misread. That test is ridiculously difficult for sure, a lot is expected from the player for a gold time. Personally I always settled for silvers when it comes to licence tests (unless I need the prize car) so I wouldn't let this bother you. Considering you can win the Viper GTSR from another event anyway, I feel like the licence golds are just 'bonuses' rather than being necessary for completion.
@@TeaKanji I end up getting it after playing for 4 hours no stopping. This test is the weirdest and most unnecessarily hard I ever saw. My strategy to get the gold was to take more risks at the first half to play as good as I could, and then try to clutch out the second half. I got sub 1'17 three times doing that, but still not enough for gold. Well... somehow I got the gold time after a bad first half. I was like 500-600ms slower than normal when I reach the corkscrew and still end up getting gold. I watch the replay and there were very clear mistakes in the first half, but it seems that some of the turns can save you a LOT of time if you do then perfectly. I have a 1'16.884 replay saved in my memory card and the run looks a lot more clean, with only the corkscrew looking a tad slower. It's very strange.
@@Filsantos86 Congrats! Yeah, that tends to be a pattern for a lot of GT3 tests, especially B-8 on PAL with the 42:800 gold time. Good to know though.
why is this game so damn difficult to come back to after so long like the cars feel like the cars just feel like they keep turning on their own and it just keeps throwing me off
You're using the analog stick to steer the car right? GT3 has pretty slippery handling compared to later GT's, it's a love/hate sort of thing. Main things I can suggest are, prioritize racing tyres, set a front springs bias, drive in manual and keep the car in a high gear when exiting corners, and use the LSD to tame power oversteer. 60 Initial 60 Acceleration can make a huge difference in cars that tend to lift off when exiting corners. Setting the front height high and the rear height low helps a ton for corner exit traction too.
I can barely get silver or gold or any of the licences on NTSC it hurts to know that PAL is more difficult lmao
Hehe, don't worry though, getting golds is completely optional for 100% and you can get all the prize cars from different events anyway. NTSC's B-8 is still very difficult despite the 200 extra milliseconds of leeway, and the less said about A-7, the better.
I think i did everything correctly yet the races are extremely hard tbh. Maybe i just have skill issue
can you win acura rsx again after selling it
Yep you can, championships can be repeated for another shot at the roulette. It's just single race event prize cars that can't be won again.
@@TeaKanji thanks man
Used to play this till my thumbs hurt! Early 00s
I pulled my PS2 out and am playing 2023