Thanks for watching! I will keep this pinned comment updated to clarify upon things and to add new info. - I mentioned it in the description, but I'll leave it here also: DuckStation's default analog sensitivity is very high, so make sure to lower it to around 120% or lower. This will greatly help with controlling cars in this game. - A bit of trivia regarding the Western menu music: it was composed and produced by Jason Page, who also made music for the game selection screens of PAL demo discs released by Official PS1 Magazine, along with the 'underwater' Demo One disc. - Small typo at 4:49, the PAL FTO weighs 23kg more, not 33kg. - When playing on console at original frame rates, dealing with bouncing requires a trade-off. On some cars (eg. RX-7's and Griffith's), even with the rear springs set as soft as possible, the car can still bounce heavily on tracks like Trial Mountain. Stiffening the rear damper above 2 will fix it, but it will also make the car feel less responsive while turning. Personally, I find I drive faster with the rear damper set to 2, but it's personal preference. Raise the rear damper to 3 or 4 to help suppress bouncing. - A disclaimer about the tuning settings I provide: they're just what worked for me, using PAL 25 / 50 FPS with a DualShock 4 in DuckStation. As everyone has their own driving style and controller setup, you'll likely need to make adjustments to suit your preferences. Use the handling tuning section as a guide when tuning each setting; I also try to explain my reasoning for increasing/decreasing certain settings in each tune. - Something I didn't mention for the sake of brevity was tyre width. In a car's spec sheet, you can see the width of the front and rear tyres. Essentially, wider tyres give better grip and traction. It's another reason why the '96 Supra RZ is better than the '95, and why the Griffith 4.0 is better than the 500: their tyres are wider. The Concept Car LM has some of the widest tyres in the game, which is why its traction is exceptional. - While the odds of getting either prize car from the regional events is 50/50, the colours work a bit differently. There seems to be some variable that causes the prize cars to skew towards one of two possible colours. From testing using save states, the game can favour one of two colours between 75 - 90% of the time. My only lead right now is that watching the end credits after beating GT World Cup flips the odds from one colour to another.
It's amazing what was possible on 33.8mhz, 2mb of system ram and 1mb of video memory. When Gran Turismo came out, I couldn't imagine that a racing game could possibly look more realistic (I'll be 40 this year, and was 14 when this game released)
This game came out in 1998. You would have been born in 1983 because you would be 40 in 2023, which means that the game came out before your 15th birthday.
Another masterpiece. Your passion for the game is an absolute pleasure to witness. Your rich deep dives into the game’s mechanics embodies the very spirit of Gran Turismo. Can’t wait to watch the next
I was looking to get back into GT1 and found your video. Calling it "The Ultimate Guide" is an understatement. It's so good and your research is incredibly thorough! I wish I had something like this back in 1998
Timestamps. I added them for myself mostly. So please do not scold me.. 6:45 - Obtain your first car 15:00 - Upgrade your car 21:00 - Benefit of manual transmission 21:29 - License B drive manual 26:58 - Buy the first car: Nissan `88 Silvia K`s 1800cc to be continued...
I was able to get all golds for licenses before watching your video but holy shit, after watching your rundown on each test with recommendations on when to shift and when to launch, getting licenses all gold is so freaking easy now lmao. Started a new playthrough recently and got them all gold in under 3 hours, it took me about 4 hours to get gold on A-5 alone the last time I did it. You were not kidding about this being the ultimate guide. Great video dude!
This video is unbelievable. Couldn't find any information online about GT1 tuning, and this video has EVERYTHING, and the way the information is presented is great. Great job, I hope your channel blows up! 👍👍👍
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the guide. Yeah, the lack of info online is really what motivated me to put these out. Happy to be spreading the word about how to tune and set up cars in this game.
This is my favourite Gran Turismo game. Not even kidding. I love the style. I love the championship angle, I love the track selection and usage. I keep coming back to this game time and time again because it's just so easy to get lost into this extremely likable world.
It is a vibe for sure. Opening Arcade Mode and hearing the menu music is always a blast of nostalgia for me, as the memories of doing split screen races all come rushing back. Were you planning on making some high-quality GT1 content? ;)
@@TeaKanji Yes I do, albeit I prefer recording my footage via original hardware as I very much prefer that look despite the lack of 60FPS. Of course though I still want to eventually Duckstation GT1 for taking unique shots of the track and cars for filmmaking purposes, right now the biggest roadblocks are money, lack of knowledge, and inconsistent work schedule (having an Autistic brain doesn't help).
Thank you! I actually came across your IA-8 run while I was doing research, I couldn't get close to your time, you were insanely fast. Hope the guide helps out!
What I also love about GT1 is this ability to do the "surprise, motherf..." moment by appearing in races like Sunday Cup with cars like Mitsubishi 3000GT LM Edition.
wow, that's a crazy dedication to the game mechanics and complete guide of how to beat the game fully. Fascinating. There's just one thing I was a bit sad about, you never talked about the 500k-ish $ race cars you can boy on each sellers. I understand they're far from required to beat the game but it would've made a real complete depth of what you can use to have the best experience (I believe after quick tryouts, you already gather a ton of money to buy multiple vehicles and even those expensive ones). It also more out of curiosity :D
I'm very impressed with the amount of details and effort you put into this video, learnt some new things about this masterpiece , you did an excellent job on this video! 👏
It's funny how easy it is to take it for granted nowadays, but it was cool for the time, yeah. GT Mode was sadly unplayable on the GT1 disc I had as a kid (scratched disc, probably), so I never got to unlock it. Shows what direction PD wanted to bring the series in an era without hardware limitations.
This is why we should always keep CDs and DVDs alive by not scratching them. There are many games that are delisted off digital stores, and the only way we can play them is via disc.
Back to the roots, I didnt expect thid for sure, loving it so far! Damn is it just me or your guides are getting better and better? Even despite their quality is near perfect!!!
Glad you're enjoying it! Yeah, I feel like I've come a long way since the GT2 guide; I've been slowly refining text/video lengths and transitions, and I think they look a lot better now than they did before. The GT2 guide is hard for me to watch these days because the text moves so slowly and the contrast isn't that great. Also helps that researching this guide was much easier than the PS2 GT's because of how straight-forward GT1 is, and how much stuff carries over into later GT games.
Hehe, I had no long-term plans back then. I made the GT2 guide expecting it to get only a couple hundred views and that would be that. I just felt like it was a video that needed to be made. I'm really grateful that so many people have been receptive of these guides, it definitely motivated me to expand and improve.
@@TeaKanji if you ever redo GT2 guide could you please show more tuning setups as examples? Don't need to elaborate a lot, I just can't find many ready setups for Gran Turismo 2, and in-game menu is confusing compared to one in GT1. Especially for infamously spinning out cars like Viper or Supra, and to make 4WDs less like a log.
@@KasumiRINA yeah, I'd probably do something similar to what I did here, where I'd give example setups and explain my reasoning for them. The Viper and Supra improve a ton with gear setup though, their issue is that they have a massive amount of torque and their 1st and/or 2nd gear is too short, so they spin out every time you try to floor it out of a corner. The Supra is also slightly bugged and has a 60 : 40 weight distribution when it's supposed to be around 53 : 47, so it doesn't have much weight on top of its rear wheels. If you do the gear trick (final to max, auto to 1, move 1st and 2nd all the way left, 4th about 75% of the way right, 5th and 6th all the way right, then lower final until the car launches smoothly), you should see a massive improvement in both acceleration and corner exit handling. My "beating the GT40 with stock tyres" video demonstrates it if you get stuck.
Thank you! Yep, these games were hugely influential for me as a kid too, doing these PS1 GT guides is always very nostalgic for me. Happy to be doing these great games justice however I can.
5:10 just wanted to point out how insane the power to weight ratio is on the NTSC-J Cerbera LM. About 1 kg per hp, that's almost F1 levels of performance. Great guide!
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it! 2 player split screen races were a huge part of my early childhood, and I wanted to recapture that magic as best as I could for the intro. Happy it brought back memories for others too.
I watched the other three game guides as well as your budget video for GT2, and I'm very excited to tuck into this one. Keep the good stuff coming Boss Man.
I played this game back then without the knowledge of tuning the cars. My first car is the mark 3 supra turbo. And like you said, the FTO LM is one of the best car. It is my weapon of choice for mid to late game races, even in stock tune. It's also decent enough to beat cars with higher horse powers in multi player. Those were the days ...
Yep, definitely the most beginner-friendly race car. Soft springs are king in GT1 for going over bumps smoothly, and it has some of the softest spring rates of all race cars, on top of having fantastic 4WD traction and sharp turning. I remember being very pleasantly surprised when I won it for the first time and gave it a test drive.
This was a really great deep dive into the game. I learned a few things like I never even knew about, such as the precise methodology of the used car dealership, and some of the more intricate features of the tuning system (like that GTO bug, for example). The original Gran Turismo was the very first game I ever played when I was three years old, when my dad introduced me to it. He had to help me out with the steering, to make sure I wasn't crashing into walls or anything, but soon enough I got the hang of it. This video has really unlocked an itch to return to it, so thanks for putting this together! I noticed you created some other videos for the sequels, so I'll be sure to check those out and possibly learn some cool things about those games as well.
Thank you, glad you enjoyed! Hehe, your first experience with GT1 sounds similar to mine; I was only 2 or 3 when I used to play split screen against my dad. I hoped to evoke those sorts of memories with the intro, to bring back nostalgia for simpler times. Hope you enjoy GT1 if you choose to revisit it, and the rest of the guides as well.
This is an incredible video. I somehow learned more about tuning watching this than I have watching tons of tuning videos for GT7. I played this back when it came out, haven't touched a GT game since GT4, but have PSVR2 and have now spent dozens of hours on GT7. Great job on this, I'm definitely watching the rest of the guides and firing up some emulators!
Thank you! Hehe, that's good to hear; the suspension tuning in PS1 GT's is completely different than later games and defies all logic at times, but parts of it do carry over to real life and/or later GT games. Have fun playing through them again.
@@TeaKanji I was able to take your advice about gear ratios and apply it to some tunes in GT7 and they're working great! I knew about general stuff like close ratios for complex circuits, but I never heard anyone talk about things like sacrificing 1st and 2nd gear for better acceleration at high speeds or lengthening 2nd gear for better performance coming out of tight turns.
Nicely done! With all my years playing this game, I never knew that maximizing the rear ride height and minimizing the front will cause you to accelerate faster, so that is pretty interesting :)
Thank you! Yeah, it's a funny one; I didn't realize it was a thing in GT1 until I was messing around in 0-1000m machine tests. Thanks for stopping by, by the way. I watched a few of your GT1 playthrough videos as I was researching to un-wind; I appreciate how you always bring a high level of knowledge to your playthroughs. That first episode of the GT4 playthrough where you go through the used lots and give an analysis on all the best starter cars was great as well. Nobody ever talked about how the Cappuccino was a great starter car, but you did. Hope to see more!
@@TeaKanji That really means a lot, and for sure there will be more in the future! And I'll definitely be referring to this video some when playing Gran Turismo 1. Over the last week in my spare time I was recording a playthrough of GT1 with no commentary and was going to post it as a longplay (maybe) and then you posted this. Unfortunately I only have the SSR11 endurance and the GT World cup left, but I may implement some of this there if I decide to edit and post it or get the time. Stay awesome :)
That's great to hear, hehe, that's a funny coincidence. Sure thing, it's up to you. Hopefully it encourages people to revisit the game in any case. I had a lot of fun making this guide, even though I always preferred GT2. Look forward to seeing it!
Thank you very much for all the time and effort you spent to make this guide. I got GT1 recently and your guide helped me a lot - mostly with deciding which cars to buy and how to tune them.
It's absolutely insane just how much depth the game had. The lengthy development period makes sense. Have you ever experimented with Motor Toon Grand Prix? As much of a GT diehard you seem to be, you probably have. It's really fascinating how the game actually has realistic vehicle physics despite the visuals being the polar opposite. It's essentially the spiritual predecessor to GT1, especially if you play the unlockable mode that lets you drive a formula or stock car around a more realistic looking circuit track.
For sure yeah; while the physics were far from perfect, they did a very solid job, especially considering the time and hardware. I've never actually tried the Polys games before GT1 no, I should probably give them a go. I watched the Digital Foundry retrospective about GT a good while back and it was interesting seeing how they eventually worked towards making GT through those arcade racers.
I've been playing the game for some days and reached the IA special events, I was struggling with TRD3000GT and this video openned my eyes, thank you. Now I can finish my Prize Car only run happy.
Unreal guide, thanks! - Learnt so much even after decades of playing the game. Sorry if I somehow skipped this, but you never seem to mention ride height when discussing specific cars - is there a reason for this? When I first won the Del Sol LM I was so hyped. Can't believe how well modern emulators improve the graphics without ruining the 'feel' of this game [visually], and unlock textures and detail that were always there, yet couldn't be rendered by the old hardware..!
Happy to help! I run the min front height, max rear height setup on every car because the 'downhill' acceleration boost and the extra corner entry stability it gives is almost always a win-win. I mentioned it in the first few setups in the B licence route, but I stopped after a while because I didn't want to keep repeating the same thing over and over for every setup. Definitely agree that DuckStation and the 60 FPS code drastically improves the experience while still keeping the game's soul intact.
What a great video. Watched it until the end. I was so surprised too see it was released only 3 weeks ago! I thougt it would be an old guide haha. Just as Im starting playing all the gt.
Thanks for sticking around, glad you enjoyed it! Hehe, yeah, there weren't really any long-form videos like this for GT1 so I said I'd go all-out and put everything I could find into one video. Have fun with the games.
I finished GT1 few days ago. Now I'm 1 endurance away from finishing GT2 (99.54%). My fav PSX games alongside Tekken 3 and Syphon Filter. I can play this forever. Thank you for this tutorial. I finished GT 1&2 many many times in my life and didn't know about....lot of stuff you put in this tutorial. I felt like I'm a god in these games but well - I'm not. Duckstation is the best what we got in PSX emulators.
I did see this video when it was new, but I just realized that I forgot to ask you the same as before, to upload (if possible) the raw video for archival purposes. Thank you very much in advance :)
Great video. I can really see the effort that went into this. I never really tuned my cars in this game, so that especially was cool to see explored here.
@@TeaKanji Certainly this game must've been impressive in its time. I don't think any other (racing) game at the time was as detailed as this one. Makes sense why they chose the "real driving simulator" slogan back then.
If I remember correctly, I bought cars in this order: - Toyota Supra Turbo (3^ gen) - Viper GTS (❤) - Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo (MR ? Most powerful version) ..and other for fun. 24 years ago 😂 Great video When I toke GT2, I bought again Supra 3^ gen at start, not best choose in GT2 but good enough 😅
This is a beautiful guide, just like the others! Well done. It really makes want to jump onto the game of my childhood, once again! I learned about the differences between the different versions of the games thanks to you. I really laughted at the minuscule weight of the Cerbera LM in the NTSC-J version (and the Viper too - what kind of alien material makes it possible for a Viper to weigh less than 850kg???) And what do you think are the best cars for time trial (more specificaly, the best road car and the best race car)? The one car that can do the best times around most of the tracks of the game? I was always curious about it...
Thank you! Hehe, yeah, the 836kg Viper GTS-R is just as ridiculous as it sounds. It's so light that you need to set the final gear and both 1st and 2nd gear all the way left to prevent wheelspin on launch. It simply needs to be experienced. Hmm, best road car, that's an interesting question. It's probably between the GTO's, Supra's and GT-R's, as they get ridiculous power from their stage 4 turbos. Of those though, the GTO definitely handles the best, the GT-R's corner exit understeer just gets worse the more power you add to it, and the Supra is a wild beast regardless of power. I had a lot of fun using the Supra with the stage 3 turbo for the footage I recorded for the guide though. Best race car is definitely the Concept Car LM, it's just completely broken. FTO LM and Cerbera LM are two of the best 'fair' race cars though.
1:35:10- Dang, looks like the Chaser and the NSX both died in that endurance, although the NSX moreso! The replay would have been a sight to behold as long as the mess ups were in the first half of the race, lol
Yep, I tried to fast-forward through the replay to see what happened, but unfortunately it got cut off before they got stuck. There was a car stuck somewhere around turn 1 after the pitstop on the minimap, but I never saw them as I was driving by. Wish I had recorded the whole endurance so I could have reviewed the footage. Might have been caused by 50 FPS weirdness.
@@TeaKanji Yeah, that could be what caused it. I never have played on the upgraded frames before so there is no telling the weird things that could happen. I'll have to try it sometime, lol
Sick video! I am planning a 100% speedrun and thanks to your setup reccomendations I can now compare certain bonus cars with each other. Any more tips for a 100% run on the Japanese version without license prices? I really think the Cerbera and Concept Car are the cars to use. But I still need to buy a car for normal cup / tuned cup / All night II combo. Any recommendations? I am thinking about the Viper GTS at the moment.
Thank you! Sounds cool; yeah, the Cerbera and Concept Car LM are definitely the ones to go for, with how light they both are on NTSC-J. You'll probably need to soften the dampers on the Cerbera to prevent the stuttering glitch. In terms of routing, I would expect that doing FF and Lightweight early would be best; if you're not getting the 400R from I-A, you'd probably need to buy a Supra to beat Sunday Cup, then sell the Supra and Demio to buy and tune an FTO GPX. Could be wrong though, someone like submaniac would know more about speedrunning strats than I would. Hmm, the Viper could work for all three, but I'd maybe suggest buying the RT/10 for Normal Car and using the prize credits to tune a 4WD like the GTO MR or '95 R33 V-spec for Tuned Car and All Night II. FF's and 4WD's are much better suited to All-Night II as the loss of rear wheel traction on FR's due to tyre wear can really slow you down. Skyhurricane just did All-Night II in a 290hp Civic Si and he was just as fast as the 590hp Supra RZ I used for the footage in this guide. Again, just theory-crafting, might be a better solution in practice. Hope that helps.
@@TeaKanji Thanks! The goal is to do sunday cup with the 2nd hand supra MA70, then sell demio and upgrade the supra to do GT cup to get the Chaser. Then use the Chaser to do UK vs Japan and hope you get the Cerbera.
Hmm, interesting, I know that's what the any% run does, but I wonder if it carries over to 100% as well. As Clubman Cup and GT Cup are free entry, might be faster to do them slightly later once you have a faster car to beat them with. It does raise the risk of not getting the Cerbera late into the run, though. At least you also have a 50% chance of getting the extremely light Viper GTS-R. I had a go at planning out a route that beats Sunday Cup, FF and Lightweight while earning enough credits to buy the RT/10 to do Normal Car as soon as possible for a ton of credits: (get B and A licences first attempt, so it's day 17 when you leave the test center) 10000 - 5010 - 3000 - 1000 = 990 (buy Silvia K's 1800c, buy turbo stage 1 and weight reduction stage 1) 990 + 24000 + 12000 + 3006 = 39996 (Sunday Cup, sell Demio and Silvia) 39996 - 11150 - 10000 - 4500 - 12000 - 1200 - 1000 = 46 (buy FTO GPX [days 20-29], buy hard racing tyres, racing muffler, NA tuning stage 2, weight reduction stage 1 and racing flywheel) 46 + 50000 + 24000 = 74046 (FF and Lightweight, sell both prize cars) Edit: forgot Sunday Cup pays 24k, not 22k; that helps the route slightly. Can just barely buy the weight reduction and flywheel for the FTO.
@@TeaKanji Yes it is my goal to try to get the Concept car as quickly as possible, and if I didn't get it then I want to use the Cerbera for most of the game. If I don't unlock one of the cars the run is dead really, since they are so much better than any other car. This is my current ideal route, I do have backup routes but this is I think the fastest?: - Buy MA70 Supra, weight reduction 1, racing flywheel. - Do licenses - Sunday Cup Sell Demio | Upgrade Supra with Turbo 2, Intercooler R, soft racing tires, Exhaust R, Motor Chip. - GT Cup Get in Chaser, front downforce max, ride height F low R max, brake lvl 10 (I don't do more setup tweaks since it also costs more time) - UK vs Japan Get in Cerbera, using your setup guidance (I do set this car up completely because there is a chance I don't win the concept car) - UK vs US Get in the Concept Car, Using your setup guidance - US vs Japan - FR Cup - Megaspeed Cup - Grand Valley 300km - SSR11 All Night I Buy one of the Vipers (need to test the difference for normal cup laptimes) - Normal Car Cup Buy a GTO MR or 95 R33 V-spec, Upgrade everything except racing modification - Tuned Car Cup - SSR11 All Night II Buy Racing Modification on GTO or 95 R33 - 4WD Cup Get an FTO? Or Integra? Need to find the fastest FF car that can do lightweight cup as well. - Lightweight Cup - FF Cup Get back into Concept Car - Clubman Cup - World Cup
That's fair enough I guess. Might be a bit safer then to avoid getting the IA licence until you've already gotten the Cerbera and/or Concept Car LM, so resetting is less costly. Also lets you buy the Supra for slightly cheaper, might help your routing a little. Might be best to mess around with a 100% complete save before doing runs so you can get your tunes for each car nailed down. Most of my tunes were done on PAL, so you may need to do some extra tweaks for NTSC-J, especially if your driving style is different to mine. Sounds good otherwise, best of luck.
You know what it is for me? The UI sounds Also the license tests were filtering me hard, thank you for the FPS tip Be warned, however, that the options in 3:27 can break cutscenes in Ace Combat 3
Hehe, the slick guitar chord that plays whenever you sell cars is particularly cool. I'll always love GT2/GT3's sound effects the most, but GT1's had a special vibe to them. Yeah, the FPS thing in licence tests stumped me as well while playing casually, glad that helped out.
One thing I find odd is that no guide for GT1/GT2 seems to mention that you can set up your controller (or even a wheel if you're adventurous) to act as a NeGcon on DuckStation. I find it much better overall than rebinding the DualShock and you have one button for throttle/brake each instead of having a single axis for both, allowing you to input both at the same time. It makes for a more genuine experience of how would the game play with modern racing game controls.
I'm aware of it and thought about mentioning it, but it's a bit more difficult to explain how to set it up without video demonstration and I wanted the guide to be primarily focused on game progression. If someone makes a good video tutorial of how to set up NeGcon with the PS1 GT games, I'll link it in the description, so people can choose between the right analog stick rebind or NeGcon methods.
@@TeaKanji I found out using dual shock 4 with analogue steeling set to 133% and right stick set to gas/ brake working really well with strong and accurate rumble response
Quick question, are tips about tuning suspension (dampers, camber etc.) apply to GT2 as well? Because your guide for it is great but all various tips got me confused while this tells clear effects on acceleration and understeer.
The main things that carry over are the ride height trick for better acceleration at the cost of extra front-heaviness, and the weird damper/shock behaviour at original FPS while driving on banked corners. Otherwise, GT2's suspension behaves much differently. Camber is nowhere near as extreme when it comes to reducing traction, and you pretty much always want at least 1.4 on both sides unless you want the car to intentionally lose grip mid-corner. Stiffening the rear dampers/shocks also improves mid-corner grip while the front makes the car more difficult to turn, so 2 front and 5-8 rear is a good general setup. Stiffening the front stabiliser isn't as important in GT2 since body roll is less extreme, so I usually set that to 2 and the rear stabiliser to 2-4 depending on how floaty the car feels. Stiff rear springs can cause instability over bumps (eg. Rome's curbs), but you don't need to set them as soft as in GT1. Toe has very little downside as there isn't any tyre wear in almost all events, and -0.20 / 0.20 will generally give both better turn-in and mid-corner grip. The ride height trick can also cause weird side effects on high-downforce cars with low ride heights, so sometimes you need to lift the front height to 60+ so the car doesn't get sucked into the ground over elevation changes.
@@TeaKanji thanks for this so much! But what to do when your FR car spins out of control? Like I tried to upgrade an 80s Supra in GT2 and it just spins away even when trying to keep it level on straights. On the other hand, my R32 GTR understeers like crazy even after I followed your guide for the second game and did many tests... I remember I used to correct those things years ago but nowadays I just don't remember how.
@@KasumiRINA Playing with manual helps a lot with this. You can just keep the higher gear to understeer more, or lower gear to oversteer. This method is also shown in this video on license tests. There are actually many other ways to control over/under steer, breaking only before corners, camber, brake F/R ratio, even changing FPS with a patch on a emulator.
I’m playing it right now. I intend to play through all of the PS1 and 2 gran turismos on an emulator on my laptop while in Japan before I move back to the US in a year and have my PS3, 4, and 5. Thank you for the great tutorial. Edit: actually, it looks like the cars from different regions vary greatly aside from just weight. The name of the Honda Civic 93 Si-R II is “Civic 93 3door Si” in the US version and its significantly down on power. It has 125 HP in the US version. Really frustrating. Also, you should check out juiced 2 hot import nights on PS2. I originally had it for the PSP and could never beat it. I’m playing it on PS2 emulator and it has a similar charm to early GT games, although less realistic. It needs some tweaking of the settings for PCSX2 though, I think specifically it needs a mild underclock for the EE cycle skipping. Anyways please check it out, if anyone can appreciate it it’s you. I’m afraid it’s forgotten.
"The name of the Honda Civic 93 Si-R II is “Civic 93 3door Si” in the US version and its significantly down on power. It has 125 HP in the US version. Really frustrating." Relax, that's not a real restriction. It's showing info for a U.S.-market model instead of the more powerful one for the Japan market, but that's just the power you see when you're looking at it in the shop. If you buy it anyway and look at it in the garage, you'll see it actually has 164 HP. Certain cars (particularly Honda's) had their display info modified in the U.S. to match the models actually offered in the U.S. market by their manufacturer, but the game's internal info is still that for the Japan-market models, so no worries.
Dude, Do not call the Demio A-Spec weak and not worth upgrading. It is quite capable when upgraded. Can do the Lightweight-K Cup, the FF cup, All-Night Endurance II and a few others.
The '97 FTO GPX does everything you mentioned, often costs 12k or less, comes with 197hp stock and only needs tyres and a couple other small upgrades to be viable. This is why I call the Demio weak and not worth upgrading: it's a money pit, and there's a car that you could buy with the 12k credits you get from selling it that does everything it could do, except it requires far less investment.
Great Guide! Very helpful for a GT1 related project im going to start soon. may i ask how you got the custom camera angles, aka the GTR LM on END and rotating thing working? would help me out tremendously, thanks @TeaKanji
Thank you! I used some Gameshark codes for that, here they are for PAL: 300B620C 0000003E (set current track to END) 800B6358 00FFFFFF 900B635C 00000000 (disable HUD) 900B635C 00000XXX (222 for rotating camera, 999 to freeze camera in current position)
@@TeaKanji that is interesting, thank you very much for the codes! may i ask where you stumbled upon them? id rather use my ntsc version for frame rate conversions, which makes it easier as its running to 60fps. a quick google search came up with nothing.
Sure thing, I found them myself using DuckStation's memory scanner, tracking and messing with addresses to see which ones affect the camera. I did most of my work on PAL so those are the only codes I have, you might be able to get them to work in NTSC-U if you find where the addresses were moved to.
@@TeaKanji honestly i only have rudimentary knowledge of these things and tinkered around last night a bit but to no avail. Found different offsets with comparing other known codes in both pal and ntsc but nothing worked. would you be willing to lend a hand?
help plz. when i set l2 r2 to brake and gas by mapping them as right stick up and down on duckstation, they act delayed or sometimes they dont work at all. for example when i press l2 to brake, car starts breaking a few seconds later. brake lights blinks a few seconds later and idk why. sometimes they dont work at all
map them to the right analog stick, create new profile then copy global stuff, then map the L2 and R2 to the right analog, R2 for accel (up R stick) L2 for brake (down R stick), then click apply profile or something like that. restart the game and set in game options accel and brake with the R stick. If u had troubles right click on the L2 and R2 mapped to unbind them and only got them binded to umm the right analog. sorry for my badd redaction, good luckk
Oh! So the 60 fps mode makes licenses harder! That explains a lot.. i was worried i become much slower with age. Now i'm enjoying GT1 and 2 in duckstation with steering wheel using the x360e emulator wich allows fully configurate the sterring wheel at your very precise feelings.... it's awesome.
Yep indeed, I learned the hard way as I spent nearly an hour trying to get gold in B-3 and not understanding what I was doing wrong. Switched back to 25 FPS and got it second try. Other than that though, yeah, it's great how DuckStation and high-FPS has rejuvenated these games.
Quick question. Any idea why my rivals in the Sunday Cup qualifying Autumn Ring Mini (JP version) are posting 41.9’s but when it comes to the race are no where near these times? I’m qualifying with a 43.836 in the S13 Silvia ‘88 as per your tutorial and qualifying in last. In your tutorial you post a 44.1 and qualify first (by some margin). Can only assume this has something to do with frame rate? Any help would be appreciated.
From what I know, the AI's qualification times are hard-coded to an extent, and I guess they made Sunday Cup's quali times much easier between NTSC-J and other regions. I missed it myself since I only did a casual playthrough of NTSC-J while skipping quali's, my bad. Thankfully the race itself is quite easy though as you say though.
One thing that should be mentioned, for anyone playing on NTSC-J - Don't bother with qualifiers, at least right at the start. If you're going with Tea's route of picking up the Silvia K, you're just not going to be able to get pole at the beginning, as the AI cheats and gets way faster times than they should realistically be able to - 41s on the Sunday Cup's Autumn Ring Mini qualifier with a Mirage Asta, for example.
Ah, oops, you may be right. I mainly tested the route on both NTSC-U and PAL, I only did a casual run without any routing for NTSC-J. I'll try it out on NTSC-J when I get the chance, but it's kind of a funny mistake if a tuned Silvia K's still isn't strong enough for Sunday Cup quali's. I guess FF's do have an advantage on a technical track like Autumn Ring Mini, but still. Kind of glad now that I didn't factor quali's into the budget for upgrades.
The crux of it is, it's the moment when torque and horsepower, and therefore acceleration, is so low that it's faster to gear up and drop to a lower RPM in the next gear. You always want to gear up after the peak power RPM, but how long you wait depends on a few things: how wide the car's torque curve is, how close the gears are (ie. how much of an RPM drop there will be between gears) and so on. For the RX-7 FD for example, not only does it have a narrow power band, its 5-speed gearbox means it needs to have wider RPM drops, so you'd need to push the car into high-RPM's much more than you would with, say, the Viper with a 6-speed gearbox and high torque at low-RPM's. Usually you also need to factor in the time it takes to gear up, but GT1's gear shifts are near-instant compared to later GT games so it's not a big deal.
Here is an easier guide, based on how I started the game since I was a kid. - Starting out, buy the black MA70 Supra for 6700 credits, as this car is an amazing platform. Buy the sports exhaust to boost the power output to around 245 HP Racing tip: Don't skip the qualifying laps, as these are great for earning some extra money early on. One Sunday Cup will earn you 40,500 credits (assuming you sell the prize car). - After completing the B license and the Sunday Cup, buy soft racing tyres, a racing intercooler, and a turbo stage 2 kit. This bumps the performance up to around 380 HP, and gives the car some much needed handling. If you can afford it, go for the weight reduction as well. - Now, beat the A-license, do the Clubman Cup, the FR challenge and buy a Viper. Note: The GTS has better grip and handling compared to the RT/10, and it is generally easier to control. - Here comes the best part. Do the Normal Car Cup, with every race and qualifying lap as well. This will earn you 400,000 credits in a relatively short time span. - Now, go back to the Supra, and fully upgrade it. Take on the GT cup and the Megaspeed Cup. The race car you won in the GT Cup can be used in the regional championships, quite easily. - Use any of the cars won from the regional races in further events. The best cars are the following: Cerbera LM, FTO LM and Concept Car LM. - Now do the IA license, and buy any of the JDM icons (Supra, GTO or any of the GTR's), as you will need them for the Tuned Car Championship - The ideal setup is a stage 3 tune, where the car sits around 600-700 HP After completing yet another high-credit championship, you are free to take on any of the left over challenges. My recommendation for the Grand Valley 300 km race is to buy an RX-7 A-Spec, as this car has phenomenal handling, decent power, and you will easily be able to beat the opponents. Finish off the rest of the endurances and then you can go ahead and take on the GT World Cup. At this point in time, you should have enough credits to buy any car you want, even the dealership specials.
1: Zero suspension tuning or gear setup, especially in cars that have 700hp and will have serious traction / corner entry stability issues with stock setups? 2: How does the GTS have better grip and handling than the RT/10? They have the exact same tyre widths, downforce and stock suspension setups. The RT/10 should have very slightly sharper turning than the GTS due to being lighter, but from my testing, and from examining their car data with the help of submaniac, there's negligible difference between the two without any upgrades. 3: Yes, your route is "easier", because you got the A licence straight away after beating Sunday Cup so you could get a ton of credits quickly from the GT League events and Normal Car Cup. Personally I don't find much fun in going back to B licence events with extremely powerful cars and breezing through them, so I didn't want to enourage that. It's still up to the player though, which is why I said that the game becomes easier if you get the A licence early. Don't take this as me dumping on you and your route, it's cool that you have your own way of doing things. I just wanted to show with this guide that it's possible, and more challenging, to do all the B licence events before moving on, and that there's plenty of player choice in terms of car selection and tuning. This guide would only be 5-10 minutes long, without diving into any of the depth and nuance that this game offers, if I kept it as linear and simplified as you've presented here. UA-cam already has way too many low-effort GT 'get rich quick trick' videos, and I wanted to offer something more in-depth.
@@TeaKanji I did not go into any details, just skimmed over the basics of the route. Of course you need to do much more than what I said in my comment. I get that
@@TeaKanji After fully watching your guide, I saw how much time and effort you put into the tuning aspect of the game. I can say that I am not a master tuner myself, so this guide was indeed very helpful. Also, the license test guide is also very helpful. I just realized that the route I set up was probably the one where most people did their playthroughs based on. I also had no idea that the framerate was to blame for the cars bumping around so much. I guess I should get Duckstation and try the higher FPS modes. As a side-note: I did beat the All Night II event with a Honda Prelude (91 VTEC model). Quite the surprise, considering it being an underpowered car compared to the AI lineup, but it did really well, and was easily able to lap the opponents a few times. Also, like you mentioned in the video. The Galant VR-4 is a surprisingly good tuning car. I should also nod towards the Mazda Eunos Cosmo 20B. Despite being on the heavy side (1640 kg stock / 1180 kg with racing mod), it is an amazing tuning car for the mid-game, and it is really good for the Megaspeed Cup due to its good torque and high power (being the most powerful car in the Mazda lineup), although this car do require a racing modification to be competitive. The 1JZ Toyotas are also pretty good cars, despite being on the heavy side. These include the Soarer (known as Lexus SC-300 internationally), Mark II, Chaser and MK.3 Supra. The Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T is pretty underrated too, but it needs a lot of upgrades to be competitive.
I want to point out that the game gets very confusing when using the Viper GTS-R with the provided gear settings on Automatic. It tries to skip some of the gears (like going from 5 direct to 7), but it can't and goes back to the previous gear, and keep doing that over and over. Is there a way to fix that while still keeping closing gears?
Hmm, sounds like the game can't handle the RPM drop being so small and it doesn't know what to do. If you're using automatic though, close gears aren't nearly as useful on the GTS-R, as its redline is way past the power band. I'd say make the RPM drop bigger from 2nd onwards if you plan to use the GTS-R with automatic, so it drops down to around 5500 RPM when gearing up.
Did you use the Japan version on this video? I am playing it on PSP, but a lot of the text is still in Japanese. Is there a patch, or did I maybe do something wrong when I converted the bin in PSX2PSP? The game works fine
I mainly used PAL, besides when I was comparing regions. Sounds like you have the NTSC-J version of the game. You could try finding an NTSC-U or PAL version of the game instead if you want, but you'd have to start over.
I have a quick question: would the settings for the RX-7 A-Spec LM work on the normal RX-7 LM? Or are there other setting used to max that out? It’s my favorite car in the game and I want to get the most possible out of it!
I played around with the normal RX-7 LM for a while. Most of the settings, like springs, front dampers, stabilisers and gear setup, carry over yeah. With its very light weight, its handling feels a bit more sensitive than the A-spec. 6.4 front camber felt pretty good to me. The main setting to be aware of is the rear damper: if you're playing on original frame rates, increasing it to 3 or 4 will help a lot with bouncing. As it has pretty sharp handling, the cost of reduced responsiveness isn't that severe. At high-FPS, it's personal preference whether you go for 2 or 3+. Stiffening the rear stabiliser to 3+ can also help the car's balance. Hope that helps!
License/B-4 playing on original Hardware on CRT TV. The tips aren't working on this one for me the car always understeer an I'm fighting against my urge to counter-steer when I enter the curve drifting, what am I'm doing g wrong?
Hmm, it could be a myriad of things; the likely causes are that you're turning in too much while braking, carrying too much speed around the corner, or flooring it out too early. Ideally the Silvia should be hovering around 100km/h / 62mph as you circle the inside curb. You can let the car's right wheels go into the grass to the side of the curb before you turn in if you want extra track width to utilize. You shouldn't really need to countersteer if your approach is good, maybe a light tap if the car divebombs too far inwards, but never more than that.
I'm not sure if anyone's ever made one, I probably should if/when I make a text version of this guide. Off the top of my head though, the NSX's benefit the most. Any GTO from '95 onwards, all Supra's, the Corvette and the Viper's can also use it instead of the custom transmission, though you can probably get better results with the custom if you spend some time with it. I don't think there's any 5-speeds that are better off with it.
Very good guide but I have 1 small problem. When I turn and I have tire smoke cheat enabled my game is so laggy. I disabled that cheat and everything works fine but I would prefer to play with that cheat. Do you know any solutions? I play Japanese version if that matters.
Thank you! Hmm, that's strange, that's never happened to me with NTSC-J. You're using DuckStation right? Maybe try enabling the 8MB RAM option and raising the overclocking to around 300% in the Console tab. I have async readahead set to 32 sectors along with read and seek speedup set to 10x. Edit: I forgot, NTSC-J freezes when you enter GT Mode if the async read is set higher than 2x.
OMG, I'd never be able to figure out why couldn't get golds in licences due to 60fps on DSstation! I was struggling to get silver on A-8 Supra RZ missing by .070. I even golded A-5 w/ 60fps, mindblown! P.S. I disabled 60 fps patch and still struggling to get silver A-8 (btw I'm on ntsc-j) does it really affect timing wondering or the game is just tough . also noticed I launch it at 6-7k rpm and shift at 6.5 , here it shows 3.5rpm and 6k respectively
It tripped me up a lot in the B licence trying to gold B-3, until I had the idea to disable high-FPS and I got gold after only a couple attempts. A-8 is difficult to gold regardless of frame rate yeah, your corner exits need to be really clean. The launch and shift points are minor optimisations, but sticking to them can turn a silver run into a gold one.
@@TeaKanji I think it is a placebo, FPS doesn't affect timing, I was finally get silver on A8, those gold requirements are just tough at least in japanese version
@@olevet75 Maybe it might depend on the test, but a few of us spent a couple hours comparing A-3 between 25/30 FPS and 50/60, and we found that lower FPS was around 0.2 - 0.3s seconds faster on average. B-3 definitely feels way more difficult to gold with high-FPS as the extra grip makes the car more difficult to turn without losing too much speed.
@@olevet75 FPS affects the game's dynamics, which can affect timing. The game updates its physics calculations every frame, using a method that will be more accurate if the timesteps between frames are shorter. So more FPS results in smoother, more accurate calculations, which is also why the increased FPS eliminates handling glitches in some cars.
@@shisoyrown I highly recommend Jp ver, gt planet was hinting cars are less twitchy better handling, something was scrambled in code while transitioning to western versions
I think it would confuse UA-cam's chapters if I added timestamps for music as well as each section of the guide, but right now chapters aren't working on any of my videos (they were at one point, but disappeared out of nowhere). The music I used is in order of appearance in the description, at least.
I can't remember exactly where... But I swear some event in this game is bugged. If you enter that event opponent cars are "shaky". They drive in a wobbly and shaky way and have very limited speed. I managed to copy this strange handling by fiddling with settings... Something to do with suspension etc but I cannot remember anymore. There was TVR Griffith in that event and possibly Toyota Exiv...
Ah, yeah, that's another side effect of the game running at low-FPS. Some of the AI cars tend to shake a lot in the regional events, I guess it's due to their low weight from racing modifications and stiff spring rates. They drive much better at 50 / 60 FPS.
I think it may be more apparent depending on region, but yeah, it was something Submaniac brought to my attention while researching. Glad you're enjoying the videos!
I think there's a few performance improvements you can apply to reduce loading times on ePSXe, but otherwise, DuckStation is a massive upgrade. I used to use ePSXe as well until I found out about DuckStation last year. It lets you increase the RAM to 8MB as well, which means you can increase the draw distance for AI cars and tracks in GT2.
I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw on the frame counter, that the framerate of the original game was only 25 fps... I mean back then this game felt fast and responsive as hell.
For some reason when trying to use the 50fps mod for PAL, the game chugs and struggles to run at more than half speed. I cannot for the life of me figure out why it's struggling so much. I can run Gran Turismo 4 in 5x upscale at 60fps just fine, so I wouldn't have thought it's a hardware issue
"If playing on an emulator, disable high-FPS during licence tests, as it causes cars to understeer." Does this only occur during license tests? Or should I be running stock fps all the time?
It occurs in general, but it only really matters if you're trying to get gold times in licences. Some of the gold times (eg. B-3, A-1, A-3) have very strict gold times, and high-FPS just makes them even more difficult to beat. For normal races, high-FPS will likely feel more enjoyable to drive due to better physics and handling.
@@machine85 sounds like you have the 50 FPS code enabled yeah. Disable it from the cheats menu, exit the test center, then go back into the test and it should be running at 25 FPS again.
Thanks for watching! I will keep this pinned comment updated to clarify upon things and to add new info.
- I mentioned it in the description, but I'll leave it here also: DuckStation's default analog sensitivity is very high, so make sure to lower it to around 120% or lower. This will greatly help with controlling cars in this game.
- A bit of trivia regarding the Western menu music: it was composed and produced by Jason Page, who also made music for the game selection screens of PAL demo discs released by Official PS1 Magazine, along with the 'underwater' Demo One disc.
- Small typo at 4:49, the PAL FTO weighs 23kg more, not 33kg.
- When playing on console at original frame rates, dealing with bouncing requires a trade-off. On some cars (eg. RX-7's and Griffith's), even with the rear springs set as soft as possible, the car can still bounce heavily on tracks like Trial Mountain. Stiffening the rear damper above 2 will fix it, but it will also make the car feel less responsive while turning. Personally, I find I drive faster with the rear damper set to 2, but it's personal preference. Raise the rear damper to 3 or 4 to help suppress bouncing.
- A disclaimer about the tuning settings I provide: they're just what worked for me, using PAL 25 / 50 FPS with a DualShock 4 in DuckStation. As everyone has their own driving style and controller setup, you'll likely need to make adjustments to suit your preferences. Use the handling tuning section as a guide when tuning each setting; I also try to explain my reasoning for increasing/decreasing certain settings in each tune.
- Something I didn't mention for the sake of brevity was tyre width. In a car's spec sheet, you can see the width of the front and rear tyres. Essentially, wider tyres give better grip and traction. It's another reason why the '96 Supra RZ is better than the '95, and why the Griffith 4.0 is better than the 500: their tyres are wider. The Concept Car LM has some of the widest tyres in the game, which is why its traction is exceptional.
- While the odds of getting either prize car from the regional events is 50/50, the colours work a bit differently. There seems to be some variable that causes the prize cars to skew towards one of two possible colours. From testing using save states, the game can favour one of two colours between 75 - 90% of the time. My only lead right now is that watching the end credits after beating GT World Cup flips the odds from one colour to another.
is the 120% sensitivity still beneficial if i just wanna stick to using the right stick to accelerate/brake and L2/R2 to shift?
@Caifabe Yeah, it's mainly for steering that the lower sensitivity is useful. Helps a lot for maintaining speed around wide turns.
@@TeaKanji yeah i can't even find the setting to change the sensitivity so.....
@@caifabe8050 Controllers -> Controller Port 1 -> Settings, the Analog Sensitivity input should be there.
@@TeaKanji that's where i was checking and nope, it isn't there. unless it's called something else besides "analog sensitivity".
It's amazing what was possible on 33.8mhz, 2mb of system ram and 1mb of video memory. When Gran Turismo came out, I couldn't imagine that a racing game could possibly look more realistic (I'll be 40 this year, and was 14 when this game released)
It was so far ahead of anything else it was truly insane aye.
@@junit7590absolutely
This game came out in 1998. You would have been born in 1983 because you would be 40 in 2023, which means that the game came out before your 15th birthday.
@@xxxk1tten42xxx So he was 14 like he said?
this isnt what the game looks like on original ps1. hes either using a modded playstation or an emulator
Another masterpiece. Your passion for the game is an absolute pleasure to witness. Your rich deep dives into the game’s mechanics embodies the very spirit of Gran Turismo. Can’t wait to watch the next
Thank you for the kind words!
I was looking to get back into GT1 and found your video. Calling it "The Ultimate Guide" is an understatement. It's so good and your research is incredibly thorough! I wish I had something like this back in 1998
Timestamps. I added them for myself mostly. So please do not scold me..
6:45 - Obtain your first car
15:00 - Upgrade your car
21:00 - Benefit of manual transmission
21:29 - License B drive manual
26:58 - Buy the first car: Nissan `88 Silvia K`s 1800cc
to be continued...
I was able to get all golds for licenses before watching your video but holy shit, after watching your rundown on each test with recommendations on when to shift and when to launch, getting licenses all gold is so freaking easy now lmao. Started a new playthrough recently and got them all gold in under 3 hours, it took me about 4 hours to get gold on A-5 alone the last time I did it. You were not kidding about this being the ultimate guide. Great video dude!
This video is unbelievable. Couldn't find any information online about GT1 tuning, and this video has EVERYTHING, and the way the information is presented is great. Great job, I hope your channel blows up! 👍👍👍
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the guide. Yeah, the lack of info online is really what motivated me to put these out. Happy to be spreading the word about how to tune and set up cars in this game.
This is my favourite Gran Turismo game. Not even kidding.
I love the style. I love the championship angle, I love the track selection and usage. I keep coming back to this game time and time again because it's just so easy to get lost into this extremely likable world.
It is a vibe for sure. Opening Arcade Mode and hearing the menu music is always a blast of nostalgia for me, as the memories of doing split screen races all come rushing back. Were you planning on making some high-quality GT1 content? ;)
@@TeaKanji Yes I do, albeit I prefer recording my footage via original hardware as I very much prefer that look despite the lack of 60FPS. Of course though I still want to eventually Duckstation GT1 for taking unique shots of the track and cars for filmmaking purposes, right now the biggest roadblocks are money, lack of knowledge, and inconsistent work schedule (having an Autistic brain doesn't help).
Neat custom camera angles at the start. This guide will be handy for future reference. Nice work.
Thank you! I actually came across your IA-8 run while I was doing research, I couldn't get close to your time, you were insanely fast. Hope the guide helps out!
What I also love about GT1 is this ability to do the "surprise, motherf..." moment by appearing in races like Sunday Cup with cars like Mitsubishi 3000GT LM Edition.
wow, that's a crazy dedication to the game mechanics and complete guide of how to beat the game fully. Fascinating.
There's just one thing I was a bit sad about, you never talked about the 500k-ish $ race cars you can boy on each sellers. I understand they're far from required to beat the game but it would've made a real complete depth of what you can use to have the best experience (I believe after quick tryouts, you already gather a ton of money to buy multiple vehicles and even those expensive ones).
It also more out of curiosity :D
I'm very impressed with the amount of details and effort you put into this video, learnt some new things about this masterpiece , you did an excellent job on this video! 👏
Ah, thanks for stopping by! Glad you enjoyed it.
What is truly crazy about this game is that even though it is 25 years old, the final reward was an unlocked 60 fps mode. On a PS1 in 1997!
It's funny how easy it is to take it for granted nowadays, but it was cool for the time, yeah. GT Mode was sadly unplayable on the GT1 disc I had as a kid (scratched disc, probably), so I never got to unlock it. Shows what direction PD wanted to bring the series in an era without hardware limitations.
This is why we should always keep CDs and DVDs alive by not scratching them. There are many games that are delisted off digital stores, and the only way we can play them is via disc.
Yamauchi is a genius
@@xxxk1tten42xxxTell me you’ve never used an emulator without telling me you’ve never used an emulator.
Back to the roots, I didnt expect thid for sure, loving it so far! Damn is it just me or your guides are getting better and better? Even despite their quality is near perfect!!!
Glad you're enjoying it! Yeah, I feel like I've come a long way since the GT2 guide; I've been slowly refining text/video lengths and transitions, and I think they look a lot better now than they did before. The GT2 guide is hard for me to watch these days because the text moves so slowly and the contrast isn't that great. Also helps that researching this guide was much easier than the PS2 GT's because of how straight-forward GT1 is, and how much stuff carries over into later GT games.
@@TeaKanji yeah I found pretty weird that you started with gt2 instead, but now I can see it was a very wise decision.
Hehe, I had no long-term plans back then. I made the GT2 guide expecting it to get only a couple hundred views and that would be that. I just felt like it was a video that needed to be made. I'm really grateful that so many people have been receptive of these guides, it definitely motivated me to expand and improve.
@@TeaKanji if you ever redo GT2 guide could you please show more tuning setups as examples? Don't need to elaborate a lot, I just can't find many ready setups for Gran Turismo 2, and in-game menu is confusing compared to one in GT1.
Especially for infamously spinning out cars like Viper or Supra, and to make 4WDs less like a log.
@@KasumiRINA yeah, I'd probably do something similar to what I did here, where I'd give example setups and explain my reasoning for them. The Viper and Supra improve a ton with gear setup though, their issue is that they have a massive amount of torque and their 1st and/or 2nd gear is too short, so they spin out every time you try to floor it out of a corner. The Supra is also slightly bugged and has a 60 : 40 weight distribution when it's supposed to be around 53 : 47, so it doesn't have much weight on top of its rear wheels. If you do the gear trick (final to max, auto to 1, move 1st and 2nd all the way left, 4th about 75% of the way right, 5th and 6th all the way right, then lower final until the car launches smoothly), you should see a massive improvement in both acceleration and corner exit handling. My "beating the GT40 with stock tyres" video demonstrates it if you get stuck.
Amazing guides for a game series that kick-started my love for cars as a child! Impressive detail and awesome job.
Thank you! Yep, these games were hugely influential for me as a kid too, doing these PS1 GT guides is always very nostalgic for me. Happy to be doing these great games justice however I can.
5:10 just wanted to point out how insane the power to weight ratio is on the NTSC-J Cerbera LM. About 1 kg per hp, that's almost F1 levels of performance. Great guide!
I just turned 39 but it feels like I just turned 14 again after just 60 seconds. Insane quality work mate.
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it! 2 player split screen races were a huge part of my early childhood, and I wanted to recapture that magic as best as I could for the intro. Happy it brought back memories for others too.
incredible work. It isn't an overstatement by any measure to call it the ultimate guide
I watched the other three game guides as well as your budget video for GT2, and I'm very excited to tuck into this one. Keep the good stuff coming Boss Man.
Thanks for sticking along, hope you enjoy it!
THE Guide. Beautiful intro, i like the music. :)
Thank you, glad you like the intro!
I played this game back then without the knowledge of tuning the cars. My first car is the mark 3 supra turbo. And like you said, the FTO LM is one of the best car. It is my weapon of choice for mid to late game races, even in stock tune. It's also decent enough to beat cars with higher horse powers in multi player. Those were the days ...
Yep, definitely the most beginner-friendly race car. Soft springs are king in GT1 for going over bumps smoothly, and it has some of the softest spring rates of all race cars, on top of having fantastic 4WD traction and sharp turning. I remember being very pleasantly surprised when I won it for the first time and gave it a test drive.
This was a really great deep dive into the game. I learned a few things like I never even knew about, such as the precise methodology of the used car dealership, and some of the more intricate features of the tuning system (like that GTO bug, for example). The original Gran Turismo was the very first game I ever played when I was three years old, when my dad introduced me to it. He had to help me out with the steering, to make sure I wasn't crashing into walls or anything, but soon enough I got the hang of it.
This video has really unlocked an itch to return to it, so thanks for putting this together! I noticed you created some other videos for the sequels, so I'll be sure to check those out and possibly learn some cool things about those games as well.
Thank you, glad you enjoyed! Hehe, your first experience with GT1 sounds similar to mine; I was only 2 or 3 when I used to play split screen against my dad. I hoped to evoke those sorts of memories with the intro, to bring back nostalgia for simpler times. Hope you enjoy GT1 if you choose to revisit it, and the rest of the guides as well.
This is an incredible video. I somehow learned more about tuning watching this than I have watching tons of tuning videos for GT7. I played this back when it came out, haven't touched a GT game since GT4, but have PSVR2 and have now spent dozens of hours on GT7. Great job on this, I'm definitely watching the rest of the guides and firing up some emulators!
Thank you! Hehe, that's good to hear; the suspension tuning in PS1 GT's is completely different than later games and defies all logic at times, but parts of it do carry over to real life and/or later GT games. Have fun playing through them again.
@@TeaKanji I was able to take your advice about gear ratios and apply it to some tunes in GT7 and they're working great! I knew about general stuff like close ratios for complex circuits, but I never heard anyone talk about things like sacrificing 1st and 2nd gear for better acceleration at high speeds or lengthening 2nd gear for better performance coming out of tight turns.
If I could like a video twice, I would. Amazing video. Thanks for giving the older Grand turismo games the love they deserve.
Thank you for the kind words!
Oh My Goodness!!! Finally!! I GOT the gold in B-3 With your help, Thank you.
Nicely done! With all my years playing this game, I never knew that maximizing the rear ride height and minimizing the front will cause you to accelerate faster, so that is pretty interesting :)
Thank you! Yeah, it's a funny one; I didn't realize it was a thing in GT1 until I was messing around in 0-1000m machine tests.
Thanks for stopping by, by the way. I watched a few of your GT1 playthrough videos as I was researching to un-wind; I appreciate how you always bring a high level of knowledge to your playthroughs. That first episode of the GT4 playthrough where you go through the used lots and give an analysis on all the best starter cars was great as well. Nobody ever talked about how the Cappuccino was a great starter car, but you did. Hope to see more!
@@TeaKanji That really means a lot, and for sure there will be more in the future! And I'll definitely be referring to this video some when playing Gran Turismo 1. Over the last week in my spare time I was recording a playthrough of GT1 with no commentary and was going to post it as a longplay (maybe) and then you posted this. Unfortunately I only have the SSR11 endurance and the GT World cup left, but I may implement some of this there if I decide to edit and post it or get the time. Stay awesome :)
That's great to hear, hehe, that's a funny coincidence. Sure thing, it's up to you. Hopefully it encourages people to revisit the game in any case. I had a lot of fun making this guide, even though I always preferred GT2. Look forward to seeing it!
Amazing guidance, particularly with car setups. Massive thank you for this. I'll use this to help my driving skills on the game.
Thank you very much for all the time and effort you spent to make this guide. I got GT1 recently and your guide helped me a lot - mostly with deciding which cars to buy and how to tune them.
It's absolutely insane just how much depth the game had. The lengthy development period makes sense. Have you ever experimented with Motor Toon Grand Prix? As much of a GT diehard you seem to be, you probably have. It's really fascinating how the game actually has realistic vehicle physics despite the visuals being the polar opposite. It's essentially the spiritual predecessor to GT1, especially if you play the unlockable mode that lets you drive a formula or stock car around a more realistic looking circuit track.
For sure yeah; while the physics were far from perfect, they did a very solid job, especially considering the time and hardware. I've never actually tried the Polys games before GT1 no, I should probably give them a go. I watched the Digital Foundry retrospective about GT a good while back and it was interesting seeing how they eventually worked towards making GT through those arcade racers.
I've been playing the game for some days and reached the IA special events, I was struggling with TRD3000GT and this video openned my eyes, thank you. Now I can finish my Prize Car only run happy.
JUST FINISHED WATCHING YOUR GT3 GUIDE, AND YOU HAVE ONE FOR GT?! NICE! Thank you for your work!!!!!!!
Hehe, good timing. Happy to help!
I was desperately waiting for that video. Thank you man
Hope it was worth the wait!
Unreal guide, thanks! - Learnt so much even after decades of playing the game. Sorry if I somehow skipped this, but you never seem to mention ride height when discussing specific cars - is there a reason for this?
When I first won the Del Sol LM I was so hyped. Can't believe how well modern emulators improve the graphics without ruining the 'feel' of this game [visually], and unlock textures and detail that were always there, yet couldn't be rendered by the old hardware..!
Happy to help! I run the min front height, max rear height setup on every car because the 'downhill' acceleration boost and the extra corner entry stability it gives is almost always a win-win. I mentioned it in the first few setups in the B licence route, but I stopped after a while because I didn't want to keep repeating the same thing over and over for every setup. Definitely agree that DuckStation and the 60 FPS code drastically improves the experience while still keeping the game's soul intact.
What a great video. Watched it until the end. I was so surprised too see it was released only 3 weeks ago! I thougt it would be an old guide haha. Just as Im starting playing all the gt.
Thanks for sticking around, glad you enjoyed it! Hehe, yeah, there weren't really any long-form videos like this for GT1 so I said I'd go all-out and put everything I could find into one video. Have fun with the games.
Between TeaKanji and MattJ155, I've learned more about GT1 and GT2 than I ever did actually PLAYING the games for 25 years.
Happy to be of service!
I finished GT1 few days ago. Now I'm 1 endurance away from finishing GT2 (99.54%). My fav PSX games alongside Tekken 3 and Syphon Filter. I can play this forever.
Thank you for this tutorial. I finished GT 1&2 many many times in my life and didn't know about....lot of stuff you put in this tutorial. I felt like I'm a god in these games but well - I'm not. Duckstation is the best what we got in PSX emulators.
Nice, I’m so glad you covered this game!
I CAN win with the cars from the movie Thunderbolt, pal!
I'M Jackie Chan ULTRAFAN!!!
I did see this video when it was new, but I just realized that I forgot to ask you the same as before, to upload (if possible) the raw video for archival purposes.
Thank you very much in advance :)
thank you very much for your dedication to make these videos!
Great video. I can really see the effort that went into this. I never really tuned my cars in this game, so that especially was cool to see explored here.
Thank you! It was a lot of effort, yeah, but I felt like the game deserved it. Hopefully the tuning tips help out.
@@TeaKanji Certainly this game must've been impressive in its time. I don't think any other (racing) game at the time was as detailed as this one. Makes sense why they chose the "real driving simulator" slogan back then.
If I remember correctly, I bought cars in this order:
- Toyota Supra Turbo (3^ gen)
- Viper GTS (❤)
- Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo (MR ? Most powerful version)
..and other for fun.
24 years ago 😂
Great video
When I toke GT2, I bought again Supra 3^ gen at start, not best choose in GT2 but good enough 😅
This is a beautiful guide, just like the others! Well done. It really makes want to jump onto the game of my childhood, once again!
I learned about the differences between the different versions of the games thanks to you. I really laughted at the minuscule weight of the Cerbera LM in the NTSC-J version (and the Viper too - what kind of alien material makes it possible for a Viper to weigh less than 850kg???)
And what do you think are the best cars for time trial (more specificaly, the best road car and the best race car)? The one car that can do the best times around most of the tracks of the game? I was always curious about it...
Thank you! Hehe, yeah, the 836kg Viper GTS-R is just as ridiculous as it sounds. It's so light that you need to set the final gear and both 1st and 2nd gear all the way left to prevent wheelspin on launch. It simply needs to be experienced.
Hmm, best road car, that's an interesting question. It's probably between the GTO's, Supra's and GT-R's, as they get ridiculous power from their stage 4 turbos. Of those though, the GTO definitely handles the best, the GT-R's corner exit understeer just gets worse the more power you add to it, and the Supra is a wild beast regardless of power. I had a lot of fun using the Supra with the stage 3 turbo for the footage I recorded for the guide though. Best race car is definitely the Concept Car LM, it's just completely broken. FTO LM and Cerbera LM are two of the best 'fair' race cars though.
Well done again, and nice intro
Thank you, glad you liked it!
I simply love your work, thank you sir.
Do you have a transcript somewhere? I would like to follow along your great instructions slowly. Thanks again.
excellent guide there man! Subbed!
Thank you, glad you liked it!
1:35:10- Dang, looks like the Chaser and the NSX both died in that endurance, although the NSX moreso! The replay would have been a sight to behold as long as the mess ups were in the first half of the race, lol
Yep, I tried to fast-forward through the replay to see what happened, but unfortunately it got cut off before they got stuck. There was a car stuck somewhere around turn 1 after the pitstop on the minimap, but I never saw them as I was driving by. Wish I had recorded the whole endurance so I could have reviewed the footage. Might have been caused by 50 FPS weirdness.
@@TeaKanji Yeah, that could be what caused it. I never have played on the upgraded frames before so there is no telling the weird things that could happen. I'll have to try it sometime, lol
Another awesome guide!
Thank you!
Thank you!
I stopped feeling like I'm worthless
Sick video! I am planning a 100% speedrun and thanks to your setup reccomendations I can now compare certain bonus cars with each other. Any more tips for a 100% run on the Japanese version without license prices? I really think the Cerbera and Concept Car are the cars to use. But I still need to buy a car for normal cup / tuned cup / All night II combo. Any recommendations? I am thinking about the Viper GTS at the moment.
Thank you! Sounds cool; yeah, the Cerbera and Concept Car LM are definitely the ones to go for, with how light they both are on NTSC-J. You'll probably need to soften the dampers on the Cerbera to prevent the stuttering glitch. In terms of routing, I would expect that doing FF and Lightweight early would be best; if you're not getting the 400R from I-A, you'd probably need to buy a Supra to beat Sunday Cup, then sell the Supra and Demio to buy and tune an FTO GPX. Could be wrong though, someone like submaniac would know more about speedrunning strats than I would.
Hmm, the Viper could work for all three, but I'd maybe suggest buying the RT/10 for Normal Car and using the prize credits to tune a 4WD like the GTO MR or '95 R33 V-spec for Tuned Car and All Night II. FF's and 4WD's are much better suited to All-Night II as the loss of rear wheel traction on FR's due to tyre wear can really slow you down. Skyhurricane just did All-Night II in a 290hp Civic Si and he was just as fast as the 590hp Supra RZ I used for the footage in this guide. Again, just theory-crafting, might be a better solution in practice. Hope that helps.
@@TeaKanji Thanks! The goal is to do sunday cup with the 2nd hand supra MA70, then sell demio and upgrade the supra to do GT cup to get the Chaser. Then use the Chaser to do UK vs Japan and hope you get the Cerbera.
Hmm, interesting, I know that's what the any% run does, but I wonder if it carries over to 100% as well. As Clubman Cup and GT Cup are free entry, might be faster to do them slightly later once you have a faster car to beat them with. It does raise the risk of not getting the Cerbera late into the run, though. At least you also have a 50% chance of getting the extremely light Viper GTS-R.
I had a go at planning out a route that beats Sunday Cup, FF and Lightweight while earning enough credits to buy the RT/10 to do Normal Car as soon as possible for a ton of credits:
(get B and A licences first attempt, so it's day 17 when you leave the test center)
10000 - 5010 - 3000 - 1000 = 990 (buy Silvia K's 1800c, buy turbo stage 1 and weight reduction stage 1)
990 + 24000 + 12000 + 3006 = 39996 (Sunday Cup, sell Demio and Silvia)
39996 - 11150 - 10000 - 4500 - 12000 - 1200 - 1000 = 46 (buy FTO GPX [days 20-29], buy hard racing tyres, racing muffler, NA tuning stage 2, weight reduction stage 1 and racing flywheel)
46 + 50000 + 24000 = 74046 (FF and Lightweight, sell both prize cars)
Edit: forgot Sunday Cup pays 24k, not 22k; that helps the route slightly. Can just barely buy the weight reduction and flywheel for the FTO.
@@TeaKanji Yes it is my goal to try to get the Concept car as quickly as possible, and if I didn't get it then I want to use the Cerbera for most of the game. If I don't unlock one of the cars the run is dead really, since they are so much better than any other car.
This is my current ideal route, I do have backup routes but this is I think the fastest?:
- Buy MA70 Supra, weight reduction 1, racing flywheel.
- Do licenses
- Sunday Cup
Sell Demio | Upgrade Supra with Turbo 2, Intercooler R, soft racing tires, Exhaust R, Motor Chip.
- GT Cup
Get in Chaser, front downforce max, ride height F low R max, brake lvl 10 (I don't do more setup tweaks since it also costs more time)
- UK vs Japan
Get in Cerbera, using your setup guidance (I do set this car up completely because there is a chance I don't win the concept car)
- UK vs US
Get in the Concept Car, Using your setup guidance
- US vs Japan
- FR Cup
- Megaspeed Cup
- Grand Valley 300km
- SSR11 All Night I
Buy one of the Vipers (need to test the difference for normal cup laptimes)
- Normal Car Cup
Buy a GTO MR or 95 R33 V-spec, Upgrade everything except racing modification
- Tuned Car Cup
- SSR11 All Night II
Buy Racing Modification on GTO or 95 R33
- 4WD Cup
Get an FTO? Or Integra? Need to find the fastest FF car that can do lightweight cup as well.
- Lightweight Cup
- FF Cup
Get back into Concept Car
- Clubman Cup
- World Cup
That's fair enough I guess. Might be a bit safer then to avoid getting the IA licence until you've already gotten the Cerbera and/or Concept Car LM, so resetting is less costly. Also lets you buy the Supra for slightly cheaper, might help your routing a little. Might be best to mess around with a 100% complete save before doing runs so you can get your tunes for each car nailed down. Most of my tunes were done on PAL, so you may need to do some extra tweaks for NTSC-J, especially if your driving style is different to mine. Sounds good otherwise, best of luck.
Holy epicness ❤
5:29
lmao she literally said "Que delícia"
first time i ever heard this music and i can no longer take it seriously
The Tokyo Express South layout in GT7 kinda feels like Special Stage 11. Great track.
nothing beats ss11 and those yellow under path lights
You know what it is for me? The UI sounds
Also the license tests were filtering me hard, thank you for the FPS tip
Be warned, however, that the options in 3:27 can break cutscenes in Ace Combat 3
Hehe, the slick guitar chord that plays whenever you sell cars is particularly cool. I'll always love GT2/GT3's sound effects the most, but GT1's had a special vibe to them. Yeah, the FPS thing in licence tests stumped me as well while playing casually, glad that helped out.
@@TeaKanji I'm now stuck trying to remap the controls to the triggers in the games heh i tried following your guide but it doesn't seem to work
What are you having trouble with in particular?
@@TeaKanji i couldn't bind the triggers to the accelerator and brake but i did it thanks to this guide
ua-cam.com/video/7NkqoH8SmGo/v-deo.html
I can't wait for gt5 ultimate guide
Great guide!
Thank you!
One thing I find odd is that no guide for GT1/GT2 seems to mention that you can set up your controller (or even a wheel if you're adventurous) to act as a NeGcon on DuckStation. I find it much better overall than rebinding the DualShock and you have one button for throttle/brake each instead of having a single axis for both, allowing you to input both at the same time. It makes for a more genuine experience of how would the game play with modern racing game controls.
I'm aware of it and thought about mentioning it, but it's a bit more difficult to explain how to set it up without video demonstration and I wanted the guide to be primarily focused on game progression. If someone makes a good video tutorial of how to set up NeGcon with the PS1 GT games, I'll link it in the description, so people can choose between the right analog stick rebind or NeGcon methods.
@@TeaKanji I found out using dual shock 4 with analogue steeling set to 133% and right stick set to gas/ brake working really well with strong and accurate rumble response
3:41 Me when I listen that music: **GT4 feelings**
Quick question, are tips about tuning suspension (dampers, camber etc.) apply to GT2 as well? Because your guide for it is great but all various tips got me confused while this tells clear effects on acceleration and understeer.
The main things that carry over are the ride height trick for better acceleration at the cost of extra front-heaviness, and the weird damper/shock behaviour at original FPS while driving on banked corners. Otherwise, GT2's suspension behaves much differently.
Camber is nowhere near as extreme when it comes to reducing traction, and you pretty much always want at least 1.4 on both sides unless you want the car to intentionally lose grip mid-corner. Stiffening the rear dampers/shocks also improves mid-corner grip while the front makes the car more difficult to turn, so 2 front and 5-8 rear is a good general setup. Stiffening the front stabiliser isn't as important in GT2 since body roll is less extreme, so I usually set that to 2 and the rear stabiliser to 2-4 depending on how floaty the car feels. Stiff rear springs can cause instability over bumps (eg. Rome's curbs), but you don't need to set them as soft as in GT1. Toe has very little downside as there isn't any tyre wear in almost all events, and -0.20 / 0.20 will generally give both better turn-in and mid-corner grip. The ride height trick can also cause weird side effects on high-downforce cars with low ride heights, so sometimes you need to lift the front height to 60+ so the car doesn't get sucked into the ground over elevation changes.
@@TeaKanji thanks for this so much! But what to do when your FR car spins out of control? Like I tried to upgrade an 80s Supra in GT2 and it just spins away even when trying to keep it level on straights. On the other hand, my R32 GTR understeers like crazy even after I followed your guide for the second game and did many tests... I remember I used to correct those things years ago but nowadays I just don't remember how.
@@KasumiRINA Playing with manual helps a lot with this. You can just keep the higher gear to understeer more, or lower gear to oversteer. This method is also shown in this video on license tests.
There are actually many other ways to control over/under steer, breaking only before corners, camber, brake F/R ratio, even changing FPS with a patch on a emulator.
since this is an hour and half long slideshow presentation withouth voice over - do you have it somewhere as an article so I can read it few minutes?
I’m playing it right now. I intend to play through all of the PS1 and 2 gran turismos on an emulator on my laptop while in Japan before I move back to the US in a year and have my PS3, 4, and 5. Thank you for the great tutorial. Edit: actually, it looks like the cars from different regions vary greatly aside from just weight. The name of the Honda Civic 93 Si-R II is “Civic 93 3door Si” in the US version and its significantly down on power. It has 125 HP in the US version. Really frustrating.
Also, you should check out juiced 2 hot import nights on PS2. I originally had it for the PSP and could never beat it. I’m playing it on PS2 emulator and it has a similar charm to early GT games, although less realistic. It needs some tweaking of the settings for PCSX2 though, I think specifically it needs a mild underclock for the EE cycle skipping. Anyways please check it out, if anyone can appreciate it it’s you. I’m afraid it’s forgotten.
"The name of the Honda Civic 93 Si-R II is “Civic 93 3door Si” in the US version and its significantly down on power. It has 125 HP in the US version. Really frustrating." Relax, that's not a real restriction. It's showing info for a U.S.-market model instead of the more powerful one for the Japan market, but that's just the power you see when you're looking at it in the shop. If you buy it anyway and look at it in the garage, you'll see it actually has 164 HP. Certain cars (particularly Honda's) had their display info modified in the U.S. to match the models actually offered in the U.S. market by their manufacturer, but the game's internal info is still that for the Japan-market models, so no worries.
love the vid!
Glad you enjoyed it, and thanks for subscribing!
*still have the game. love it.*
Welp, time to go back to my first GT game!
Dude, Do not call the Demio A-Spec weak and not worth upgrading.
It is quite capable when upgraded.
Can do the Lightweight-K Cup, the FF cup, All-Night Endurance II and a few others.
The '97 FTO GPX does everything you mentioned, often costs 12k or less, comes with 197hp stock and only needs tyres and a couple other small upgrades to be viable. This is why I call the Demio weak and not worth upgrading: it's a money pit, and there's a car that you could buy with the 12k credits you get from selling it that does everything it could do, except it requires far less investment.
Great Guide! Very helpful for a GT1 related project im going to start soon. may i ask how you got the custom camera angles, aka the GTR LM on END and rotating thing working? would help me out tremendously, thanks @TeaKanji
Thank you! I used some Gameshark codes for that, here they are for PAL:
300B620C 0000003E (set current track to END)
800B6358 00FFFFFF
900B635C 00000000 (disable HUD)
900B635C 00000XXX (222 for rotating camera, 999 to freeze camera in current position)
@@TeaKanji that is interesting, thank you very much for the codes! may i ask where you stumbled upon them? id rather use my ntsc version for frame rate conversions, which makes it easier as its running to 60fps. a quick google search came up with nothing.
Sure thing, I found them myself using DuckStation's memory scanner, tracking and messing with addresses to see which ones affect the camera. I did most of my work on PAL so those are the only codes I have, you might be able to get them to work in NTSC-U if you find where the addresses were moved to.
@@TeaKanji honestly i only have rudimentary knowledge of these things and tinkered around last night a bit but to no avail. Found different offsets with comparing other known codes in both pal and ntsc but nothing worked. would you be willing to lend a hand?
1:31:49 The Toyota Sprinter: Hello! I'm late? 🗿
help plz. when i set l2 r2 to brake and gas by mapping them as right stick up and down on duckstation, they act delayed or sometimes they dont work at all. for example when i press l2 to brake, car starts breaking a few seconds later. brake lights blinks a few seconds later and idk why. sometimes they dont work at all
map them to the right analog stick, create new profile then copy global stuff, then map the L2 and R2 to the right analog, R2 for accel (up R stick) L2 for brake (down R stick), then click apply profile or something like that. restart the game and set in game options accel and brake with the R stick. If u had troubles right click on the L2 and R2 mapped to unbind them and only got them binded to umm the right analog. sorry for my badd redaction, good luckk
Have you tried mapping them ingame? I had the same problem but I found out you can do it ingame it works that way
Oh! So the 60 fps mode makes licenses harder! That explains a lot.. i was worried i become much slower with age. Now i'm enjoying GT1 and 2 in duckstation with steering wheel using the x360e emulator wich allows fully configurate the sterring wheel at your very precise feelings.... it's awesome.
Yep indeed, I learned the hard way as I spent nearly an hour trying to get gold in B-3 and not understanding what I was doing wrong. Switched back to 25 FPS and got it second try. Other than that though, yeah, it's great how DuckStation and high-FPS has rejuvenated these games.
@@TeaKanji really love duckstation. Great video, thanks!
Do you mind sharing the other gear settings for the RX-7 Aspec?
For the race car? Sure, I used:
1st: 2.789
2nd: 1.886
3rd: 1.430
4th: 1.098
5th: 0.856
6th: 0.676
Final: 4.280
Quick question. Any idea why my rivals in the Sunday Cup qualifying Autumn Ring Mini (JP version) are posting 41.9’s but when it comes to the race are no where near these times? I’m qualifying with a 43.836 in the S13 Silvia ‘88 as per your tutorial and qualifying in last. In your tutorial you post a 44.1 and qualify first (by some margin). Can only assume this has something to do with frame rate? Any help would be appreciated.
From what I know, the AI's qualification times are hard-coded to an extent, and I guess they made Sunday Cup's quali times much easier between NTSC-J and other regions. I missed it myself since I only did a casual playthrough of NTSC-J while skipping quali's, my bad. Thankfully the race itself is quite easy though as you say though.
One thing that should be mentioned, for anyone playing on NTSC-J - Don't bother with qualifiers, at least right at the start.
If you're going with Tea's route of picking up the Silvia K, you're just not going to be able to get pole at the beginning, as the AI cheats and gets way faster times than they should realistically be able to - 41s on the Sunday Cup's Autumn Ring Mini qualifier with a Mirage Asta, for example.
Ah, oops, you may be right. I mainly tested the route on both NTSC-U and PAL, I only did a casual run without any routing for NTSC-J. I'll try it out on NTSC-J when I get the chance, but it's kind of a funny mistake if a tuned Silvia K's still isn't strong enough for Sunday Cup quali's. I guess FF's do have an advantage on a technical track like Autumn Ring Mini, but still. Kind of glad now that I didn't factor quali's into the budget for upgrades.
Hidden gem
Hello I got a question, what defines the best RPM to gear up for each car? The gear graph?
The crux of it is, it's the moment when torque and horsepower, and therefore acceleration, is so low that it's faster to gear up and drop to a lower RPM in the next gear. You always want to gear up after the peak power RPM, but how long you wait depends on a few things: how wide the car's torque curve is, how close the gears are (ie. how much of an RPM drop there will be between gears) and so on. For the RX-7 FD for example, not only does it have a narrow power band, its 5-speed gearbox means it needs to have wider RPM drops, so you'd need to push the car into high-RPM's much more than you would with, say, the Viper with a 6-speed gearbox and high torque at low-RPM's. Usually you also need to factor in the time it takes to gear up, but GT1's gear shifts are near-instant compared to later GT games so it's not a big deal.
Here is an easier guide, based on how I started the game since I was a kid.
- Starting out, buy the black MA70 Supra for 6700 credits, as this car is an amazing platform. Buy the sports exhaust to boost the power output to around 245 HP
Racing tip: Don't skip the qualifying laps, as these are great for earning some extra money early on. One Sunday Cup will earn you 40,500 credits (assuming you sell the prize car).
- After completing the B license and the Sunday Cup, buy soft racing tyres, a racing intercooler, and a turbo stage 2 kit. This bumps the performance up to around 380 HP, and gives the car some much needed handling. If you can afford it, go for the weight reduction as well.
- Now, beat the A-license, do the Clubman Cup, the FR challenge and buy a Viper. Note: The GTS has better grip and handling compared to the RT/10, and it is generally easier to control.
- Here comes the best part. Do the Normal Car Cup, with every race and qualifying lap as well. This will earn you 400,000 credits in a relatively short time span.
- Now, go back to the Supra, and fully upgrade it. Take on the GT cup and the Megaspeed Cup. The race car you won in the GT Cup can be used in the regional championships, quite easily.
- Use any of the cars won from the regional races in further events. The best cars are the following: Cerbera LM, FTO LM and Concept Car LM.
- Now do the IA license, and buy any of the JDM icons (Supra, GTO or any of the GTR's), as you will need them for the Tuned Car Championship - The ideal setup is a stage 3 tune, where the car sits around 600-700 HP
After completing yet another high-credit championship, you are free to take on any of the left over challenges.
My recommendation for the Grand Valley 300 km race is to buy an RX-7 A-Spec, as this car has phenomenal handling, decent power, and you will easily be able to beat the opponents.
Finish off the rest of the endurances and then you can go ahead and take on the GT World Cup. At this point in time, you should have enough credits to buy any car you want, even the dealership specials.
1: Zero suspension tuning or gear setup, especially in cars that have 700hp and will have serious traction / corner entry stability issues with stock setups?
2: How does the GTS have better grip and handling than the RT/10? They have the exact same tyre widths, downforce and stock suspension setups. The RT/10 should have very slightly sharper turning than the GTS due to being lighter, but from my testing, and from examining their car data with the help of submaniac, there's negligible difference between the two without any upgrades.
3: Yes, your route is "easier", because you got the A licence straight away after beating Sunday Cup so you could get a ton of credits quickly from the GT League events and Normal Car Cup. Personally I don't find much fun in going back to B licence events with extremely powerful cars and breezing through them, so I didn't want to enourage that. It's still up to the player though, which is why I said that the game becomes easier if you get the A licence early.
Don't take this as me dumping on you and your route, it's cool that you have your own way of doing things. I just wanted to show with this guide that it's possible, and more challenging, to do all the B licence events before moving on, and that there's plenty of player choice in terms of car selection and tuning. This guide would only be 5-10 minutes long, without diving into any of the depth and nuance that this game offers, if I kept it as linear and simplified as you've presented here. UA-cam already has way too many low-effort GT 'get rich quick trick' videos, and I wanted to offer something more in-depth.
@@TeaKanji I did not go into any details, just skimmed over the basics of the route. Of course you need to do much more than what I said in my comment. I get that
@@TeaKanji After fully watching your guide, I saw how much time and effort you put into the tuning aspect of the game. I can say that I am not a master tuner myself, so this guide was indeed very helpful. Also, the license test guide is also very helpful.
I just realized that the route I set up was probably the one where most people did their playthroughs based on.
I also had no idea that the framerate was to blame for the cars bumping around so much. I guess I should get Duckstation and try the higher FPS modes.
As a side-note: I did beat the All Night II event with a Honda Prelude (91 VTEC model). Quite the surprise, considering it being an underpowered car compared to the AI lineup, but it did really well, and was easily able to lap the opponents a few times.
Also, like you mentioned in the video. The Galant VR-4 is a surprisingly good tuning car. I should also nod towards the Mazda Eunos Cosmo 20B. Despite being on the heavy side (1640 kg stock / 1180 kg with racing mod), it is an amazing tuning car for the mid-game, and it is really good for the Megaspeed Cup due to its good torque and high power (being the most powerful car in the Mazda lineup), although this car do require a racing modification to be competitive.
The 1JZ Toyotas are also pretty good cars, despite being on the heavy side. These include the Soarer (known as Lexus SC-300 internationally), Mark II, Chaser and MK.3 Supra. The Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T is pretty underrated too, but it needs a lot of upgrades to be competitive.
I want to point out that the game gets very confusing when using the Viper GTS-R with the provided gear settings on Automatic. It tries to skip some of the gears (like going from 5 direct to 7), but it can't and goes back to the previous gear, and keep doing that over and over. Is there a way to fix that while still keeping closing gears?
Hmm, sounds like the game can't handle the RPM drop being so small and it doesn't know what to do. If you're using automatic though, close gears aren't nearly as useful on the GTS-R, as its redline is way past the power band. I'd say make the RPM drop bigger from 2nd onwards if you plan to use the GTS-R with automatic, so it drops down to around 5500 RPM when gearing up.
Did you use the Japan version on this video? I am playing it on PSP, but a lot of the text is still in Japanese. Is there a patch, or did I maybe do something wrong when I converted the bin in PSX2PSP? The game works fine
I mainly used PAL, besides when I was comparing regions. Sounds like you have the NTSC-J version of the game. You could try finding an NTSC-U or PAL version of the game instead if you want, but you'd have to start over.
I have a quick question: would the settings for the RX-7 A-Spec LM work on the normal RX-7 LM? Or are there other setting used to max that out?
It’s my favorite car in the game and I want to get the most possible out of it!
I played around with the normal RX-7 LM for a while. Most of the settings, like springs, front dampers, stabilisers and gear setup, carry over yeah. With its very light weight, its handling feels a bit more sensitive than the A-spec. 6.4 front camber felt pretty good to me. The main setting to be aware of is the rear damper: if you're playing on original frame rates, increasing it to 3 or 4 will help a lot with bouncing. As it has pretty sharp handling, the cost of reduced responsiveness isn't that severe. At high-FPS, it's personal preference whether you go for 2 or 3+. Stiffening the rear stabiliser to 3+ can also help the car's balance. Hope that helps!
@@TeaKanji thank you so much!
License/B-4 playing on original Hardware on CRT TV.
The tips aren't working on this one for me the car always understeer an I'm fighting against my urge to counter-steer when I enter the curve drifting, what am I'm doing g wrong?
Hmm, it could be a myriad of things; the likely causes are that you're turning in too much while braking, carrying too much speed around the corner, or flooring it out too early. Ideally the Silvia should be hovering around 100km/h / 62mph as you circle the inside curb. You can let the car's right wheels go into the grass to the side of the curb before you turn in if you want extra track width to utilize. You shouldn't really need to countersteer if your approach is good, maybe a light tap if the car divebombs too far inwards, but never more than that.
Maybe a stupid question. Is there a car list that show how many cars benefits form semi-racing gearbox extra gear? Thanks.
I'm not sure if anyone's ever made one, I probably should if/when I make a text version of this guide. Off the top of my head though, the NSX's benefit the most. Any GTO from '95 onwards, all Supra's, the Corvette and the Viper's can also use it instead of the custom transmission, though you can probably get better results with the custom if you spend some time with it. I don't think there's any 5-speeds that are better off with it.
this is great
0:40 Pov: you have stick drift
Very good guide but I have 1 small problem. When I turn and I have tire smoke cheat enabled my game is so laggy. I disabled that cheat and everything works fine but I would prefer to play with that cheat. Do you know any solutions? I play Japanese version if that matters.
Thank you! Hmm, that's strange, that's never happened to me with NTSC-J. You're using DuckStation right? Maybe try enabling the 8MB RAM option and raising the overclocking to around 300% in the Console tab. I have async readahead set to 32 sectors along with read and seek speedup set to 10x.
Edit: I forgot, NTSC-J freezes when you enter GT Mode if the async read is set higher than 2x.
OMG, I'd never be able to figure out why couldn't get golds in licences due to 60fps on DSstation! I was struggling to get silver on A-8 Supra RZ missing by .070. I even golded A-5 w/ 60fps, mindblown!
P.S. I disabled 60 fps patch and still struggling to get silver A-8 (btw I'm on ntsc-j) does it really affect timing wondering or the game is just tough . also noticed I launch it at 6-7k rpm and shift at 6.5 , here it shows 3.5rpm and 6k respectively
It tripped me up a lot in the B licence trying to gold B-3, until I had the idea to disable high-FPS and I got gold after only a couple attempts. A-8 is difficult to gold regardless of frame rate yeah, your corner exits need to be really clean. The launch and shift points are minor optimisations, but sticking to them can turn a silver run into a gold one.
@@TeaKanji I think it is a placebo, FPS doesn't affect timing, I was finally get silver on A8, those gold requirements are just tough at least in japanese version
@@olevet75 Maybe it might depend on the test, but a few of us spent a couple hours comparing A-3 between 25/30 FPS and 50/60, and we found that lower FPS was around 0.2 - 0.3s seconds faster on average. B-3 definitely feels way more difficult to gold with high-FPS as the extra grip makes the car more difficult to turn without losing too much speed.
@@olevet75 FPS affects the game's dynamics, which can affect timing. The game updates its physics calculations every frame, using a method that will be more accurate if the timesteps between frames are shorter. So more FPS results in smoother, more accurate calculations, which is also why the increased FPS eliminates handling glitches in some cars.
Just can't get hold on A 4, however many times I try
Does NTSC-J use metric or imperial units? I would like to play at higher fps but use km and kg since it's what i'm used to. PS Classic btw.
NTSC-J uses metric yeah, so you should be good to go.
@@TeaKanji Thanks, I'll try both PAL and NTSC-J to see what suits me better!
@@shisoyrown I highly recommend Jp ver, gt planet was hinting cars are less twitchy better handling, something was scrambled in code while transitioning to western versions
Do you have timestamp for every music you used?
I think it would confuse UA-cam's chapters if I added timestamps for music as well as each section of the guide, but right now chapters aren't working on any of my videos (they were at one point, but disappeared out of nowhere). The music I used is in order of appearance in the description, at least.
@@TeaKanji Ok, didn't know that. Good to know
how did you activate the 60fps on duckstation with overclocking
In the Cheats menu, the 60 FPS code should be there, otherwise you'll need to copy-paste the code from Silent's GT1 blog in the description.
I can't remember exactly where... But I swear some event in this game is bugged. If you enter that event opponent cars are "shaky". They drive in a wobbly and shaky way and have very limited speed. I managed to copy this strange handling by fiddling with settings... Something to do with suspension etc but I cannot remember anymore. There was TVR Griffith in that event and possibly Toyota Exiv...
Ah, yeah, that's another side effect of the game running at low-FPS. Some of the AI cars tend to shake a lot in the regional events, I guess it's due to their low weight from racing modifications and stiff spring rates. They drive much better at 50 / 60 FPS.
@@TeaKanji Thanks for responding 👍 I have never before found a reason or somebody who has ran into this glitch before. Love your videos btw!
I think it may be more apparent depending on region, but yeah, it was something Submaniac brought to my attention while researching. Glad you're enjoying the videos!
@@TeaKanji Would you be interested about making a video of this glitch?
@@talkkari5460 Hmm, it could be interesting, though I'm not sure if it's worth making a full video about. Maybe MattJ155 would do it though ;)
Never used Duckstation. I have epsxe though. Not sure if the issues can be remedied on their
I think there's a few performance improvements you can apply to reduce loading times on ePSXe, but otherwise, DuckStation is a massive upgrade. I used to use ePSXe as well until I found out about DuckStation last year. It lets you increase the RAM to 8MB as well, which means you can increase the draw distance for AI cars and tracks in GT2.
I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw on the frame counter, that the framerate of the original game was only 25 fps... I mean back then this game felt fast and responsive as hell.
Depends on what version you play, PAL version only had 25 fps because of the 50hz TVs at the time
I know this video is over a year old by now, but can someone please tell me how can i setup my duckstation to have quick loading times on GT1?
Increase the disk read and seek speeds to 2x or higher, and raise the overclocking to 300% or higher.
For some reason when trying to use the 50fps mod for PAL, the game chugs and struggles to run at more than half speed. I cannot for the life of me figure out why it's struggling so much. I can run Gran Turismo 4 in 5x upscale at 60fps just fine, so I wouldn't have thought it's a hardware issue
Hmm, strange, try these settings and see if it helps:
Console -> Enable 8MB RAM, Enable Clock Speed Control (200%), Async Readahead 32 sectors, Read and Seek Speedup 2x
Display -> Hardware (Vulkan)
Enhancements -> Internal Resolution Scale 5x
@@TeaKanji Thank you! That seems to have done the trick, it's running perfectly now
The gto us always a sloid work horse. Good for ralley in the later games too
This was interesting.
What i like more in gt1 compared to gt2, is that the over blending like in gt2 is not present
it looks like one of those old racing games when the car is driving sideways 😂
it isntt actually 😭😭
"If playing on an emulator, disable
high-FPS during licence tests,
as it causes cars to understeer."
Does this only occur during license tests? Or should I be running stock fps all the time?
It occurs in general, but it only really matters if you're trying to get gold times in licences. Some of the gold times (eg. B-3, A-1, A-3) have very strict gold times, and high-FPS just makes them even more difficult to beat. For normal races, high-FPS will likely feel more enjoyable to drive due to better physics and handling.
Thank you for the quick reply bro. I love GT. Been playing since I was 3 years old.
@@TeaKanji what counts as high fps? i have game 50 and video 50 in the bottom right. B3 is hard
@@machine85 sounds like you have the 50 FPS code enabled yeah. Disable it from the cheats menu, exit the test center, then go back into the test and it should be running at 25 FPS again.
@@TeaKanji yup thanks! thats sorted it just got silver!
This video could REALLY use chapters. Lots of great info but super difficult to search
They're in the description, UA-cam just won't show them in the player for some reason.
oh yeah i forgot that the cars bounce around like mfs lol