Please paint that Great Unclean One, that is by far my favorite miniature GW has ever made. I've painted 6 of them but would love to see how you'd paint yours.
You’re the best Andy!!!! Been wondering forever and just making it on my own!!!!! Thanks for the video! Love every single one of them. UA-cam goat tutorial painter!!!
Enjoyed that you took the time to do it sprays and didn't just say get an Air Brush. I did feel an air brush set-up helped me make the next leap in painting but also know that isn't the solution for everyone. Also commenting for the youtubes machines
Very good and educational video, I really appreciate this kind of content. Regarding underpainting for gold and silver, traditionally it was done with red for gold and black for silver to highlight their characteristics. I've only done this with gold leaf and it makes a huge difference to have a red base instead of white or black, but it should give the same effect here. For silver colors I have tested black vs white and the results are night and day, but I must add that I have not done this with spray paints, so my experience only comes from other crafts
Lots of great advice here. My favourite is Chaos Black spray, but I also live in one of those extreme weather hellholes . So, I have AK interactive airbrush primer as a backup. It's not as good, but it's better than not being able to prime models.
Ooo, a shout out, hehe! If you are time rich, use an airbrush to prime. If you are time poor, get rattle cans. Excellent video, as always. I definitely need to use more Colour Forge, and I never even thought about the first few sprays after not using a can for a while.
I'm from San Diego and moved to Fargo so some experience here. I've sprayed my minis in -20 degrees and it was totally fine. The primer stayed wet for longer. Once it hits like 90 degrees... wrll, that's when I have problems with a dusty or crusty finish.
very good advice, have a like and comment. I'm not a total newbie to painting and agree with most of your comments. A good spray can is worth it. I think colour forge are actually better value than most now and basically colour match GW. I still prime using a brush, Valejjo surface primers are amazing value for that. 2 thin coats (somebody should meme that) and you're done. Thank you for all your videos. No nonsence, helpful and you seem like a genuine guy. Love from England
Really needed this video. I've been following your painting guides and they've really helped me. This is another useful basic videos that I was hoping for. I am now able to see that I've been overdoing the zenithal and losing the shadow effect! Much appreciated!
Great video Andy, in this instance I didn’t really learn anything new but affirmation that I’m already doing it right has a value all of its own so thank you for that 😃
this is a big help with the video, sometimes i prime my miniature and it has this crusty thing which for the life of me, i never know why. thank you for solving the mystery .
Been using Colour Forge sprays for priming exclusively now for a couple years, I’ve got at least 8 of the colours. The Matt black and Hyrax brown are absolutely top notch cannot rate them highly enough
For really hot and humid, you get a lot spitting and frosting when the spray is drying , the best time is winter time when it gets cooler less humid. otherwise spraying in the bathroom as long as you get coverage to prevent the spray getting on places, one non GW sprays ive liked is Krylon matte black cause it sprays on smooth and dries fairly quick, rustoleum is ok but not as smooth as the krylon, and one needs to spray farther so you dont get too much unnecessary coverage.
Purple primer with white zenithal is my favourite. Black shadows just drain too much of the colour - although seeing you prime the great unclean one, maybe I just left too much black on the model. I haven't done 3 colour priming yet (only been painting minis for a year), but I want to experiment with something like Purple base - light brown zenithal - white drybrushing for some extra depth.
Personally I quite like my golds over a rich brown colour, but either way I agree they absolutely do need a basecoat on the primer before the gold layer.
Love Colourforge spray cans - great colours, great coverage and, given their larger size, great value. I've Had them for years with no problems - not like Army Painter cans that leak propellant even before you use them.....
Regarding the weather, I live in Sweden and use my spray cans outside both in -20 during winter and in +30 during summer, we both have very dry weather and very humid weather. Then I take them in to dry, either my cold and slightly damp basement or my bathroom, depending on if I plan to paint the same day in prime my models. I have NEVER had any issues priming my models, regardless of weather conditions, and I never noticed any difference in quality depending on when I prime the models or where I let the dry. I honestly think people yap on about this is because it is written on the spray cans and that they are scared to try for whatever reason. It’s kinda of a hobby myth, that priming during “suboptimal” conditions will somehow make the minis bad. But just look at Squidmar, they prime outside all year round. I honestly don’t think people should care all that much about the finding the optimal weather, that warning text doesn’t apply to our hobby since we don’t use the spray for things like outside graffiti, fixing blemishes on a car that is sitting outside, or spraying on other outside surfaces.
Great video as a relatively new hobbyist i learned a little something (i thought was the case but now i know) also colour forge regularly run a special promo for 3 cans and they're so good, its all i use now
A note on brush-on primers. Some resins used in resin models don't take spray primers well. Reaper had this problem with the Bones line a few years ago, they even posted instructions on their website that you should use brush-on primer for them. I haven't bought anything from Reaper lately so I don't know is that has changed but I just wanted to mention that sometimes brush-on is the better option.
@@MediocreHobbies it's not though, at the end you are clearing out paint that is still liquid. If you've not painted for a day or two that paint dries out. Once it's dry that's it until it gets to the point where it completely clogs up and you're left with half a can of paint you can't use. Just because it hasn't happened yet doesn't mean it won't, you've just been lucky, lol🤣🤣
16:20. This is true. Hardware store primer is not as consistent as hobby grade primer. I have GW cans that still work that are three years old. I have 3 can rustuleum 2x primer that are 1/2 full and spit out. (Yes i clear them out after spraying and they spit even with a new tip
Both GW and Colourforge cans are good for years. I bought a number of Army Painter cans and the majority of them leaked propellant even when not used. Apparently they now put use by dates underneath...? 😮😮😮
Really appreciate the video 👍 I bought the gold spray, shook the can for easily 8 minutes and when I sprayed it came out so clumpy and flakey. I don't know what more I could have done to mix the can, aside from an actual paint mixer, but I don't have access to one
Being a very novice painter that’s the frist time I’ve seen the difference of black vs grey for the first primer colour. Wow that was a surprise. I’m a guard player with lots of vehicles and tanks to paint. I like grim dark style and my colour scheme is a deep dark blue with lighter patches as camo. Can you give me any tips for priming colour choices with this in mind? Would you also dry brush over the top of the models you sprayed there or is that not your preferred method. Sorry for the questions 😅
I never remember if I've done it or not so i find it's easier to do that bit as the start of the spraying session. It's the same idea, just at different times!
I was told to turn the can upside down and clear the tube/nozzle at the end of spraying so that paint doesn't dry in the tube. Any thoughts? Thanks for the video. Looks great!
For spraying (or painting) gold: don’t use black but a dark brown as basecoat to achieve a “full” gold tone. With black there is the risk of greenish tints/desaturated looks in areas with poor coverage.
IMO you're a little aggressive with the zenithal. I like more contrast between the black and grey/white. Can't criticise your results though mate. My main priming tip though is use colour zenithal. For my ultramarines I do black, mostly from an underneath angle. Then zenithal blue spray. Mini 75% painted in about 15 seconds.
Thanks for some of those tips. Is the only reason a model will look gritty after spraying is if you didn't clean it out before starting to spray it? Or is the heat or not shaking enough contributing to that look?
Heat can can do to as well but it’s the same reason. As apposed to the spray being dried in the tube of the can. The spray can dry in mid air if it’s too hot so you get dusting on the model.
I can say that when I first started painting gw I tried to save money and just use a cheap can of spray. I learned the hard way that cheap sprays are designed to be used on large flat surfaces usually outdoors and tend to clog up details on miniatures even with a light coat. Miniature sprays such as gw or colorforge are designed to be used on small models with tiny details and are formulated perfectly so that when they dry they bring out the detail rather than obscure it. Like you said it really is worth the investment to use something specifically designed for what we do.
its funny to me, i have the best results with brushed on airbrush primers, i dont want to deal with all that side effects that spray cans have (weather, cost, etc). i simply put it on my wet palette and brush on a few thinn layers, also it doesnt take me that much longer per mini, around 5min or so.
Do you prefer gray primer over white? Ive been trying to figure out what is the best for using contrast with. Im really pushing to finish my blood angels before the new box comes out.
You have more upfront cost for an airbrush, but the time and money saved down the line will equal the cans of paint used over the course of your hobby career. If you do get an airbrush, keep it clean, and you'll enjoy it for years to come.
I'm now at 4:21. So, when priming from can, it is all wrong to prime each of the bits separately (OK, I cut them away from sprues)? It is correct to prime just whole the model fully glued? If so, how should I prime my hormagants swarms, who got their front pair of claws crossed under their heads and legs squatted? I got no ideas how I could prime belly area otherwise...
My general rule is if I can’t paint it easily, I can’t see it anyway so it doesn’t matter. For the swarms I generally would prime very small things like that before putting like on a base, like have them glued to something else and base them afterwards. But as I said, if they’re based now and you can’t reach the underneath don’t worry about trying to paint there!
@@MediocreHobbies in title you said metalick Did you mean how to spray metalick models? I also ask if rezin modelfs from forge world/expert kits do difrent?
Please paint that Great Unclean One, that is by far my favorite miniature GW has ever made. I've painted 6 of them but would love to see how you'd paint yours.
I'd rather he paint the great clean one
@@SacredGumby guess I’m
Never painting that abomination lol
I mean ... If you never saw "the One" ForgeWorld used to make, sure... And that wasn't "technically" GW.😅
You’re the best Andy!!!! Been wondering forever and just making it on my own!!!!! Thanks for the video! Love every single one of them. UA-cam goat tutorial painter!!!
Enjoyed that you took the time to do it sprays and didn't just say get an Air Brush. I did feel an air brush set-up helped me make the next leap in painting but also know that isn't the solution for everyone. Also commenting for the youtubes machines
I’ve just started using colour forge sprays and so far been happy with them
Very good and educational video, I really appreciate this kind of content. Regarding underpainting for gold and silver, traditionally it was done with red for gold and black for silver to highlight their characteristics. I've only done this with gold leaf and it makes a huge difference to have a red base instead of white or black, but it should give the same effect here. For silver colors I have tested black vs white and the results are night and day, but I must add that I have not done this with spray paints, so my experience only comes from other crafts
Lots of great advice here. My favourite is Chaos Black spray, but I also live in one of those extreme weather hellholes . So, I have AK interactive airbrush primer as a backup. It's not as good, but it's better than not being able to prime models.
Ooo, a shout out, hehe! If you are time rich, use an airbrush to prime. If you are time poor, get rattle cans.
Excellent video, as always. I definitely need to use more Colour Forge, and I never even thought about the first few sprays after not using a can for a while.
Great video. I would imagine a lot of newbies to the hobby would find this video a great help
Thanks man, hope so too!
Really surprised to see the difference in spraying black before gold, I like it!
Also I agree do not use Halfords plastic primer, I wish I never did 😅
Brush on primers can be really handy when it is 10pm and raining outside. Last step in the evening so you can start the next day on a new figure.
I'm literally 30 mins away from priming with retributor. I'm glad I've caught this video.
For my space marines I like to use a silver primer and then a contrast colour over it. It gives the space marines a really good metallic armour
I'm from San Diego and moved to Fargo so some experience here.
I've sprayed my minis in -20 degrees and it was totally fine. The primer stayed wet for longer.
Once it hits like 90 degrees... wrll, that's when I have problems with a dusty or crusty finish.
very good advice, have a like and comment. I'm not a total newbie to painting and agree with most of your comments. A good spray can is worth it. I think colour forge are actually better value than most now and basically colour match GW. I still prime using a brush, Valejjo surface primers are amazing value for that. 2 thin coats (somebody should meme that) and you're done. Thank you for all your videos. No nonsence, helpful and you seem like a genuine guy. Love from England
Really needed this video. I've been following your painting guides and they've really helped me. This is another useful basic videos that I was hoping for. I am now able to see that I've been overdoing the zenithal and losing the shadow effect! Much appreciated!
New member. Your AoS skaven and vids like this have been soooo helpful
@@MarcsMinis really happy to hear that pal.
Great video Andy, in this instance I didn’t really learn anything new but affirmation that I’m already doing it right has a value all of its own so thank you for that 😃
Fantastic video! I hope to see a full painting tutorial for the GUO in the future. I have one in box ready to go! 😀 [From a regular Daemons player...]
Brilliant video. Thank you. So often the basics get overlooked. Start out badly and it’s a big uphill struggle to get the mini looking good.
Cheers. Zenithal tutorial is very useful. I kind of knew what to try but seeing the whole process explained very simply is really helpful.
this is a big help with the video, sometimes i prime my miniature and it has this crusty thing which for the life of me, i never know why. thank you for solving the mystery .
Been using Colour Forge sprays for priming exclusively now for a couple years, I’ve got at least 8 of the colours. The Matt black and Hyrax brown are absolutely top notch cannot rate them highly enough
For really hot and humid, you get a lot spitting and frosting when the spray is drying , the best time is winter time when it gets cooler less humid. otherwise spraying in the bathroom as long as you get coverage to prevent the spray getting on places, one non GW sprays ive liked is Krylon matte black cause it sprays on smooth and dries fairly quick, rustoleum is ok but not as smooth as the krylon, and one needs to spray farther so you dont get too much unnecessary coverage.
Thanks for the metallics comparison, very helpful!
Fantastic video as always Andy! Your tutorials are so helpful!
Purple primer with white zenithal is my favourite. Black shadows just drain too much of the colour - although seeing you prime the great unclean one, maybe I just left too much black on the model.
I haven't done 3 colour priming yet (only been painting minis for a year), but I want to experiment with something like Purple base - light brown zenithal - white drybrushing for some extra depth.
Really good video, even after doing the hobby for approaching 3 decades there were things in there I didn't know or had never really thought about 😃
Personally I quite like my golds over a rich brown colour, but either way I agree they absolutely do need a basecoat on the primer before the gold layer.
Love Colourforge spray cans - great colours, great coverage and, given their larger size, great value. I've Had them for years with no problems - not like Army Painter cans that leak propellant even before you use them.....
Great video, thanks! Looking forward to the Great Unclean One video too!
Regarding the weather, I live in Sweden and use my spray cans outside both in -20 during winter and in +30 during summer, we both have very dry weather and very humid weather. Then I take them in to dry, either my cold and slightly damp basement or my bathroom, depending on if I plan to paint the same day in prime my models. I have NEVER had any issues priming my models, regardless of weather conditions, and I never noticed any difference in quality depending on when I prime the models or where I let the dry.
I honestly think people yap on about this is because it is written on the spray cans and that they are scared to try for whatever reason. It’s kinda of a hobby myth, that priming during “suboptimal” conditions will somehow make the minis bad. But just look at Squidmar, they prime outside all year round.
I honestly don’t think people should care all that much about the finding the optimal weather, that warning text doesn’t apply to our hobby since we don’t use the spray for things like outside graffiti, fixing blemishes on a car that is sitting outside, or spraying on other outside surfaces.
Thanks, some very useful tips.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video as a relatively new hobbyist i learned a little something (i thought was the case but now i know) also colour forge regularly run a special promo for 3 cans and they're so good, its all i use now
A note on brush-on primers. Some resins used in resin models don't take spray primers well. Reaper had this problem with the Bones line a few years ago, they even posted instructions on their website that you should use brush-on primer for them. I haven't bought anything from Reaper lately so I don't know is that has changed but I just wanted to mention that sometimes brush-on is the better option.
Ah interesting! Thanks for that tip!
Excellent video, really useful.
Absolutely love content where people explain their own process for painting. Keep it up, anything you want to see from the NOVA open show?
Yes i have been waiting for this video! 🎉
Cheers!
You are supposed to turn it upside down and clear it when you've finished priming so the nozzle isn't clogged the next time you use it
It’s the same thing, I just never remember if I’ve done that part or not so I find it easier to do it at the start to make sure.
@@MediocreHobbies it's not though, at the end you are clearing out paint that is still liquid. If you've not painted for a day or two that paint dries out. Once it's dry that's it until it gets to the point where it completely clogs up and you're left with half a can of paint you can't use. Just because it hasn't happened yet doesn't mean it won't, you've just been lucky, lol🤣🤣
@@Bunyip_Studios lucky for over 20 years lol. I think I will stick to what o know works.
Thank you! That was very informative.
Really helpful video! Thanks
Great to hear that, thank you!
My uncle, jebidia zenithal, invented this technique in 1979.
16:20. This is true. Hardware store primer is not as consistent as hobby grade primer. I have GW cans that still work that are three years old. I have 3 can rustuleum 2x primer that are 1/2 full and spit out. (Yes i clear them out after spraying and they spit even with a new tip
Both GW and Colourforge cans are good for years. I bought a number of Army Painter cans and the majority of them leaked propellant even when not used. Apparently they now put use by dates underneath...? 😮😮😮
Really appreciate the video 👍
I bought the gold spray, shook the can for easily 8 minutes and when I sprayed it came out so clumpy and flakey. I don't know what more I could have done to mix the can, aside from an actual paint mixer, but I don't have access to one
Amazing video exactly what I needed to help with my priming but I deff need you to paint that great unclean one next 😂😂
Being a very novice painter that’s the frist time I’ve seen the difference of black vs grey for the first primer colour. Wow that was a surprise.
I’m a guard player with lots of vehicles and tanks to paint. I like grim dark style and my colour scheme is a deep dark blue with lighter patches as camo. Can you give me any tips for priming colour choices with this in mind?
Would you also dry brush over the top of the models you sprayed there or is that not your preferred method. Sorry for the questions 😅
Upside down spraying until it's clear should be done when you're finished, so that there's no paint in the tube to dry before your next session.
I never remember if I've done it or not so i find it's easier to do that bit as the start of the spraying session. It's the same idea, just at different times!
Another great video
Warhammer rep told me recently that the retributor armor in the states is different than the one in the UK. Ours (states) comes out hella dusty
I was told to turn the can upside down and clear the tube/nozzle at the end of spraying so that paint doesn't dry in the tube. Any thoughts?
Thanks for the video. Looks great!
@@scottrenfer2735 exactly the same premise. I just can’t be sure if I did it so I do it just before I start spraying be be safe.
@@MediocreHobbies Right on. Thanks for the advice!
Have a great weekend!
MH: -10 is cold
Me: laughs in Canadian winter (-35)
Awesome thanks for the video
Ugh I never remember to clear the nozzle 🤦♂️. Thanks for reminding me
Yeah some people do it at the end but I think it’s easier to get in the habit of starting off with clearing it so you don’t forget!
@@MediocreHobbies I'll start putting "clear me" labels on my cans as a reminder 💪🤔
For spraying (or painting) gold: don’t use black but a dark brown as basecoat to achieve a “full” gold tone. With black there is the risk of greenish tints/desaturated looks in areas with poor coverage.
I prefer how black looks but if you like the brown then keep using that!
@@MediocreHobbies Didn’t mean to criticise your way, but to add a helpful tip for others. Limits on comment length were obviously not helpful 🙂
@@ArnoNymus-i6h I didn't take it as a criticism man, don't worry!
IMO you're a little aggressive with the zenithal. I like more contrast between the black and grey/white. Can't criticise your results though mate. My main priming tip though is use colour zenithal. For my ultramarines I do black, mostly from an underneath angle. Then zenithal blue spray. Mini 75% painted in about 15 seconds.
Thanks for some of those tips. Is the only reason a model will look gritty after spraying is if you didn't clean it out before starting to spray it? Or is the heat or not shaking enough contributing to that look?
Heat can can do to as well but it’s the same reason. As apposed to the spray being dried in the tube of the can. The spray can dry in mid air if it’s too hot so you get dusting on the model.
@@MediocreHobbies THANK YOU! I've been wondering these things for so long.
Comment for the algorithm gods!
I can say that when I first started painting gw I tried to save money and just use a cheap can of spray. I learned the hard way that cheap sprays are designed to be used on large flat surfaces usually outdoors and tend to clog up details on miniatures even with a light coat. Miniature sprays such as gw or colorforge are designed to be used on small models with tiny details and are formulated perfectly so that when they dry they bring out the detail rather than obscure it. Like you said it really is worth the investment to use something specifically designed for what we do.
its funny to me, i have the best results with brushed on airbrush primers, i dont want to deal with all that side effects that spray cans have (weather, cost, etc). i simply put it on my wet palette and brush on a few thinn layers, also it doesnt take me that much longer per mini, around 5min or so.
Stick with whatever works best for you!
How do you find the colour Forge primers?With them being Matt does contrast work well with them consider the key is rougher.
How long do you wait for drying times between spraying the matt black then going for the zenethal?
Maybe 5 10 minutes. Not long.
Do you prefer gray primer over white? Ive been trying to figure out what is the best for using contrast with. Im really pushing to finish my blood angels before the new box comes out.
Where do you get these little holder things?
You have more upfront cost for an airbrush, but the time and money saved down the line will equal the cans of paint used over the course of your hobby career. If you do get an airbrush, keep it clean, and you'll enjoy it for years to come.
Great point! Although airbrushing isn’t just down to cost, some people don’t have somewhere to use one safely indoors!
❤️🤘🔥
How would you do death company? They are black anyway. I love your methods but would it work on a pure black marine
I’ve done videos on black armour before!
For some reason, the audio seems to cut out at 4:08 and returns later at 4:38
Had to remove some copyrighted music in that section!
I'm now at 4:21. So, when priming from can, it is all wrong to prime each of the bits separately (OK, I cut them away from sprues)? It is correct to prime just whole the model fully glued? If so, how should I prime my hormagants swarms, who got their front pair of claws crossed under their heads and legs squatted? I got no ideas how I could prime belly area otherwise...
My general rule is if I can’t paint it easily, I can’t see it anyway so it doesn’t matter. For the swarms I generally would prime very small things like that before putting like on a base, like have them glued to something else and base them afterwards. But as I said, if they’re based now and you can’t reach the underneath don’t worry about trying to paint there!
Comment 👍
Rezing forge worrd? Also?
I don't understand? :D
@@MediocreHobbies in title you said metalick
Did you mean how to spray metalick models?
I also ask if rezin modelfs from forge world/expert kits do difrent?
Resin forgeworld miniatures, I think.
@@jacawandersmok9043 he means metallic spray primers. If you just watched the vid you would have seen that
What are your thoughts on alternatives to the black/grey combo? Like bone over red/brown or dark brown?
Eww, spray cans. Lost me there.
I like to use a black base coat then dry brush silver over it. It is faster and looks better than a pure silver base coat.