You're kidding? About every guy loves tools. It's just hard to refrain from buying too much. Certainly if you don't use it for your job, as is my case.
Bro. Tools are an investment. They are perfectly fine to love. They make us our living. Our skill with the tools and the investment on the tools. I spent 4k on my tools for my job. Ive made 80k laat year with them. 100k the year before. They pay themselves back in full!
@@sanderd17 for sure. I have to be super flexible. Some days I have 4 guys in the truck. Some days I’m framing, some days I’m running material. Some days I’m a plumber. Or organization is top priority. As I can pull out or pull in whatever I need. The worst took you can own is the one you can’t find.
Hey mate. We are in different countries (Australia) but it may pay to look into the installation specifications on your plaster. We do a few things different here. I'd be back blocking your ceilings. You use back blocking cement and put square of plaster between the battens. It adds a lot of rigidity to the sheet and helps prevent cracking with movement of the house. Our screw pattern is different also, and we use stud adhesive. Also, if you use furring channel and clips on your ceilings it is way easier and quicker to set up your ceiling, you won't have the issues with screws not setting to a consistent depth, and the ceiling will be less likely to crack as the furring channel clips allow for slight movement as the house moves/settles. It's also really cheap.
We have the same specs you are describing here in NZ, not sure why Scott isn't following the manufacturers instructions. Maybe because it's an older ceiling? Also wideline gib board is readily available at most Placemakers. 1350 wide for 2700 studs, useful for older homes like this!
@@cmmartti similar product different profile. You clip the channel up with brackets that get fixed to the bottom chord of your trusses. Set a line laser up, set up your brackets to the line, clip on the channel. It's super quick and gives dead flat,l and level ceilings. We use it for sound deadening as well, but the sound clips are really expensive. Regular bondo brackets are cheap.
Hi Scott. You do some great work and I love your channel. But you should really be back blocking your ceiling end joints. It is on page 47 of the 2018 Gib Site guide. It is also recommended for the tapered edges, but not required until level 4 finish is required. Keep up the great work 🙂
Backblock taper joins if it's more than two joins in a ceiling, always backblock butt joins. I also always put an artificial taper in the butt joins by putting two packers over the butt join and the temp screw two bits of timber between the battens so they bend the ends of the sheets up slightly. Once the covebond sets you get a permanent taper that will give a much flatter ceiling. I absolutely hate any joins on timber. They always crack.
Hey mate, only found your channel recently and have been playing catch-up into the 126 episode, I’m a carpenter in penrith, Sydney - do a lot of similar work to you guys, also appreciate the filming and editing side as I filmed weddings and events for over 10 years too.. already added to my tool collection after watching the vids too 😂😂😂
Good to see you have had the job "cat" scanned to find the faults. Screw guns have a lot of adjustments and now that I own one have now worked out what they are all for. Thanks for the gib tips.
Those Makita dry wall screw guns are the best on the market. Glad you finally worked them out. Haven't seen a loft ladder in over 22 years since moving to Oz. common feature in a lot of UK homes and we frequently installed them. Flat pitches and lightweight truss construction here makes most lofts useless. Don't you get 1350mm wide sheets in NZ. We get all the sizes in either 1200mm or 1350mm for 2.7M ceilings.
You mentioned doing vertical board over horizontal because of the added mud joint at the top. I’ve seen guys do a narrow strip in the middle of the wall and join the plaster joints together during mud
Hi Scott, thanks for the vids, love the music too. I’ve held many drywall guns but I own the festool, (not because I’m a festool fanboy) but cause it’s truly hands down the best one in my opinion. Depth setting, ease to use, least jams and easy to reset after a jam but most of all low noise motor plus: it only runs as you push it into the wall/ceiling. Can’t recommend it enough. If you got a lot of sheetrock to put up…
G, day Scott Brown Carpentry from Sydney, Australia. In this building renovation, it looks like the R values have been increased for energy efficiency. * my method of plastering: Gyprock with (blue) stud adhesives 400mm spacing clot nails vertical and screws for ceilings. Finally base coat, tape, topcoat and cornice. Good job 🌏🇭🇲
Yep. Screw guns are frustrating in 'reno's Regarding staggering your joints... To avoid a cracked ceiling don't butt join on a batten, backblock and butt join between battens. You can then use a couple bts of timber and 3mm spacer to produce a dip in the butt join that gives a recess for the plaster and tape. Result: a ceiling that will not crack, and perfectly flat, and a happy plasterer too!
Hi Scott, I am a first year apprentice in Auckland, I have been building just for 6 month and I really appreciate every single little tip that you have on your bag. Cheers bro!!!
I have the corded version and when it behaves it’s wicked. When it plays up and starts jamming the screws I could throw it in a skip. I sprayed the hell out of it with lube and it definitely improved the mechanism. A bit of a love/hate relationship.
Why don't you use a drywall lift? That gotta help you out ALOT instead of lifing it up by hand. Cool to see how other carpenter's from other countries do they'r work. Im a Norwegian carpenter and can tell there's many simularities but also many things that are done differently. I like your episodes. Keep it up!
I’m late to this vid here Scott but I just got one of these in today and I’ve been using it and it’s an updated model it looks different and the depth setting is spot on every time now
Get yourself a drywall t square and set your drywall sheets leaning against the a wall or have a drywall cart so you can Mark anything out or cut standing up it's way faster and you're not cutting along the edge of a level
Brilliant Scotty boy I just resurrected my collated screwgun too on monday mate a gave up on it a year ago pulled it out monday and boom was working great a had to check ma name was on it and a didn't aquire sumone elses lol
In Sweden, almost everyone use the screw-gun! Unfortunately the makita is not the best out there. It would be nice if you could try out a bosch, festool or hilti, it is a night and day difference.
I have the Hilti as well but I find the Makita is consistently better... if you know how to use it. What's hilarious here is Scott still didn't adjust the screw depth with the fine adjustment.
i had this drill for 15 years at least and i had the same problems ,after this video i now have it back in action , cheers Scott 👍 i now have a new Favourite gun the Senco Duraspin DS722-18V its amazing , looks like Gaston is right , always read the manual 😅
I never had an issue with the older Protool/Festool autofeed screw gun. Are there no auto feed attachments for the DFS452/XSF03Z in your neck of the woods? Makita offers one here, but so does Senco. If I ever needed an autofeed again, i’d probably go the xsf03 + senco route.
Recently had to lay down two layers of fermacell on top of steeldeck. About 100m2 and 50 screws per board, let me tell you i was glad i had this machine. When it does misfire it's a bitch to get the stuck ones out though.
Thats funny. I put up a new ceiling in Chch recently and just put it over the top old one. Not many screws went in so mostly just glue holding it to the old soft board ceiling haha. Not the flattest either.
Thank for the videos. If you have the chance, I personally would be interested in seeing videos detailing historic exterior/ interior window trim and installation. Btw I ordered a smoko T-shirt. I like the design 👍
Have you ever tried the glue method fo your vertical wallboard? I’m in New England and a lot of the homes are very crooked, ya I cut shims to straighten them out but I’ll do the glue method for extremely flat walls. Makes all the trim very easy when everything is true. Very little scribing. Another great video!
Not meaning to be rude or anything, but isn`t plaster lift a thing down there? I`ve been a carpenter in Norway for 8-9 years now and my body would be even more sore if I didnt have a lift:P PS: fun to see how others work from different countries. keep on making videos!
What, no back blocking on the ceiling sheet joins? Sure Winstone Wallboards say to do it for large areas, but it’s cheap insurance for no cracking on small ceilings too!
Why is a vapor barrier not installed under the plasterboard in New Zealand? Without it, the flap will eventually soften due to moisture because if I've seen correctly, New Zealand roofs have no vapor barriers.
Completely different climate - temperate. Vapour barriers only work in either cold or hot climates - we are neither in NZ. Installing them here within the wall sandwich can actually cause the very problem you're describing.
In sweden we are using that drill all the time!! Even for wood on wood, but that makita is the worst one... Try Hilti or Festool, ist like day and night. I use the one from Festool and I love it, but Hilti is the most popular in sweden.
Surprised you didn’t end each sheet in the ceiling between a batten so it could be back blocked forming a recessed butt joint. Much easier for the plasterer to float the joint. I supposed it comes down to economical yield and carpenters doing plastering work....or not.
Do you install the sheet rock because you are the general contractor or because carpenters hang drywall in New Zealand? Ya’ll seem to hang a lot of rock for carpenters! Love the channel!
Yeah man, in New Zealand carpenters tend to do a bit of everything. It's pretty normal for us to do everything from concrete to the finishing timber. It may be because of our population size. Either way, there are some crews who specialize, and you see a lot more of that in the commercial sector.
hey mate i'm assuming you may know this but just going by your vertical sheet comment , you can get sq edge to taper 1350 wide sheets (wideline) so you still have a chance to do horizontal in slightly higher than 2.4. situations. and when you have a 2.7. ceiling you use wideline x2. anyway great content as always mate.
Yep. Unfortunately I have to improvise because my bosses never think to order Gib ahead of time, and wideline and taper square is never stocked and has to be ordered.
Yep, I've never been too keen on these screw guns. I've never thought that they've improved on installation time. Too many variables to make them worth the expense and the time. Actually gave mines away! ( 18v Makita ) Kept the batteries though!!! lol. Cheers for the vid. :)
Must admit. I work with a bunch of guys who have the Hilti collated guns. Absolutely rate them highly. Paying a premium price but if you're gibbing all day every day then it's worth it.
All my tools are makita, the best screwgus are the Hilti or Dewalt, i'm a site carpenter I do a ceiling every week the ones to get is either the dewalt or Hilti
Scott I have the same screwdriver and all adjustments are great and all but honestly it’s a bit crap, it gets left in the van as the impact driver smashes it🤣
Man I used that drill plastering with some guy on a job. He didnt give a single fuck about where the screws were going for the plasterboard so it’s not like it was accurate. Sped up the process so much though.
Hi Scott, love your videos! You mentioned sound insulation for a wall adjoining an entrance way. What do you use for sound insulation in high noise rooms? What do use in normal rooms where the walls always seems to be stud walls?
You guys have got to try Logan Park Bakery which is right next to the cafe for smoko, their pies are amazing! It's my go-to bakery in my suburb of One Tree Hill!
I’ve never personally used that screw gun but I’ve seen them be used on job sites and it seems to be a decking thing, I’m a carpenter but haven’t really ever built a deck as there is a local company where that’s all they do so my boss who is a contractor normally just uses them whilst we focus on the house itself, but yeah I always see the decking guys use those. Maybe the fairest and best test for it will be when you next do a deck because it’s quite a specific tool I think
Hey Scott. I was wondering about the way you use the “plaster glue” when you place plaster boards. I am a carpenter in Denmark and we do not use the “glue”. I have followed you for about a year and I think it’s fun to see the difference between countries
ive only ever heard people having a whinge about them makita guns. i bought a dewalt one and its decent like. the one annoying part of all of them is the lack of being able to work well in corners
The Makitas are actually one of the best. I have used both the Makita and the Dewalt as well as the Senco ones. The Dewalt isn't bad but it's definitely not the best. Both the Makita and the Senco are better.
Love your videos and I'm generally impressed with what you do and how you do it. However in this case you should read the Gib guide. There are a few things you've done wrong with that ceiling
also i have the machine. In the beginning i hate him, but after some practice i love the machine : -) and now I don't want anything else anymore it goes so much faster than a normal machine.
I don't like the butt joins on the battens. They should be between the battens and backblocked with CoveBond, and if you really want your plasterers happy, you put two small packers or nails over the joins and then get two bits of timber long enough to span between the battens and screw them on temporarily. This will push a taper into the butt join, and once the Covebond sets it will hold that taper.
I sheeted two 3 bedroom houses with one of those, at the start I was shit, had to adjust almost every screw I put in, by the end of the second house I had to adjust almost none of them, didn't touch one for 6 months and had to sheet another houses, was dog shit again 😂
i follow guys that use nail guns and screwguns.... i probably spend an hour of my prep time just fixing fixings that are too proud or so deep the head has split the timber. so those guns arent really saving any time at all. thats why as a finisher i will only use an impact.
You are following people who are crap at their job. I never leave screws or nails proud, and I mostly use guns. I always systematically check all the screws with a jointing knife after I have finished hanging all my Gib. And I wouldn't dream of hand nailing my finishing lines, nobody is going to pay that kind of money for a job that is no better.
I noticed you were joining the sheets on the batten. A few years ago I did that instead of joining in between the batten and back blocking and my boss ripped me apart. im still confused to this day what is the right way lol
If you join of the batten and back block. You put some temporary bits of wood and a wedge to bow up the join. So when the plasterers finish the join they can just go flat instead of feathering. If you join on the batten you cant bow up the join as it's fixed.
@@neild7971 just use a 3mm nail or something similar. Just means an easy finish for taping. If you google gib site guide theres a big manual. Then search ceiling installation and tapered edge.
@@robertw383 i agree, i'm an electrician and see lots of these installs. interesting to see how different parts of the worlds do things. thankyou for your reply, will be mentioned on our next tea break. all the best and keep up the good work chaps.
There are rules to gluing our plasterboard. Screw the perimeter at 300mm centers, or on the battens in the case of ceilings, and daubs of glue at 200mm intervals, no less than 200mm away from any screws. Glue and screws must NEVER meet each other. We tend to screw the center of the sheet with ceilings too, so for a 1200 wide sheet running across the battens, we glue at 200, 400, 800 and 1000mmm. 4 daubs, with a 400mm space in between for our center screw.
Not sure what you have available in the UK, but on this side of the pond we use either Loctite PL100 Drywall Construction Adhesive or my favorite, OSI F38 Drywall and Panel Adhesive. Either is about $5.00 per 28oz tube. Small price to pay for additional fastening and also reducing the need for additional screws in the field.
We use a specific gib-board (drywall sheet) water-based adhesive that has zero slump. One of the strongest and fastest to use is spray foam adhesive with the proper gun, but the worst thing is it will get on EVERYTHING. Water based far nicer to use.
They are using Gibfix One. Closest I've seen that may be available internationally is Sika Nailbond Fast. It's water based stuff. I prefer Gibfix Allbond, which is solvent based and flexible. I haven't seen anything else like it, but I would say any flexible construction adhesive that comes out thick and doesn't slump or run will work. Standard construction adhesive won't work because it's too runny and will just make a mess. One advantage of these glues is that they will bridge up to about a 10mm gap between the plasterboard and the framing, so you don't have to spend as much time trying to straighten walls, as long as the perimeter of the sheet is straight and the studs aren't bowing out then you're good.
I bought one. Brand new out of the box it wasn't working. I was ready to throw it over the fence then decided to skim over the manual. Depth adjustment fixed it instantly. 😂🤣
Hey Scott, my 5 year old made me laugh like anything today. He said.....”hey dad, on today’s exciting episode, we go to nana’s”. Awesome!😂😂😂😂
Start em young
careful, nek minnit he'll be saying "smoko time" when you ask him to do anything.
That's amazing 😂
@Duke Taylor nope nobody cares
Thank you for helping me do my job better. And not making me feel weird for loving tools so much.
You're kidding? About every guy loves tools. It's just hard to refrain from buying too much. Certainly if you don't use it for your job, as is my case.
Bro. Tools are an investment. They are perfectly fine to love. They make us our living. Our skill with the tools and the investment on the tools. I spent 4k on my tools for my job. Ive made 80k laat year with them. 100k the year before. They pay themselves back in full!
@@sanderd17 for sure. I have to be super flexible. Some days I have 4 guys in the truck. Some days I’m framing, some days I’m running material. Some days I’m a plumber. Or organization is top priority. As I can pull out or pull in whatever I need.
The worst took you can own is the one you can’t find.
@@Titantitan001 I’ve grown to actually understand this. I feel like Superman literally lol when my truck is full of my stuff.
Yeah, I’m not even in the trades and I have a boatload of Makita.
Best music selection out of every carpentry channel
To be fair, it’s just a strong, and I mean strong Casey Neistat influence vlogs
@@Niznuts123 come again ?
I like the shot at the end. Production quality is increasing every episode!
Be careful, he may retire from building to be a videographer for another building youtube channel. :p
@@joshbauer2223 I am thinking they should start one called Jess Brown carpentry starring the best character in the show.
@@mateusmadeiraBut I don't have the magnetic charisma of Scott 😆
That sweeping broom sound, the soft song of birds at the end of the day packing up is magical.
What video editing software does he use ?
Hey mate. We are in different countries (Australia) but it may pay to look into the installation specifications on your plaster. We do a few things different here.
I'd be back blocking your ceilings. You use back blocking cement and put square of plaster between the battens. It adds a lot of rigidity to the sheet and helps prevent cracking with movement of the house.
Our screw pattern is different also, and we use stud adhesive.
Also, if you use furring channel and clips on your ceilings it is way easier and quicker to set up your ceiling, you won't have the issues with screws not setting to a consistent depth, and the ceiling will be less likely to crack as the furring channel clips allow for slight movement as the house moves/settles. It's also really cheap.
We have the same specs you are describing here in NZ, not sure why Scott isn't following the manufacturers instructions. Maybe because it's an older ceiling? Also wideline gib board is readily available at most Placemakers. 1350 wide for 2700 studs, useful for older homes like this!
Yeah also super easy to get the new ceiling level instead of ripping timbers. Just find the lowst rafter and set all your clips to that :thumbup:
@@cmmartti similar product different profile. You clip the channel up with brackets that get fixed to the bottom chord of your trusses. Set a line laser up, set up your brackets to the line, clip on the channel. It's super quick and gives dead flat,l and level ceilings.
We use it for sound deadening as well, but the sound clips are really expensive. Regular bondo brackets are cheap.
I love the music on your videos. I feel so chilled out watching your content!
Another exciting episode! Thanks for subtitles at the end because trying to figure out what Paerau said would have driven me nuts.
Hi Scott. You do some great work and I love your channel. But you should really be back blocking your ceiling end joints. It is on page 47 of the 2018 Gib Site guide. It is also recommended for the tapered edges, but not required until level 4 finish is required.
Keep up the great work 🙂
What does that mean
Should be strictly 13mm as well and could've done it in one sheet
Backblock taper joins if it's more than two joins in a ceiling, always backblock butt joins. I also always put an artificial taper in the butt joins by putting two packers over the butt join and the temp screw two bits of timber between the battens so they bend the ends of the sheets up slightly. Once the covebond sets you get a permanent taper that will give a much flatter ceiling.
I absolutely hate any joins on timber. They always crack.
When I make tea at work I hear the smoko time music in my head
Hey mate, only found your channel recently and have been playing catch-up into the 126 episode, I’m a carpenter in penrith, Sydney - do a lot of similar work to you guys, also appreciate the filming and editing side as I filmed weddings and events for over 10 years too.. already added to my tool collection after watching the vids too 😂😂😂
Good to see you have had the job "cat" scanned to find the faults. Screw guns have a lot of adjustments and now that I own one have now worked out what they are all for. Thanks for the gib tips.
You guys are funny. Two construction men on this job like watching the chip and fish coming to me to enjoy the channel.
Those Makita dry wall screw guns are the best on the market. Glad you finally worked them out. Haven't seen a loft ladder in over 22 years since moving to Oz. common feature in a lot of UK homes and we frequently installed them. Flat pitches and lightweight truss construction here makes most lofts useless. Don't you get 1350mm wide sheets in NZ. We get all the sizes in either 1200mm or 1350mm for 2.7M ceilings.
That shot of the Tui was wonderful.
I really enjoyed the video, loved the Scott Brown specialty.
You mentioned doing vertical board over horizontal because of the added mud joint at the top. I’ve seen guys do a narrow strip in the middle of the wall and join the plaster joints together during mud
A "belly band." Good tip!
@@cmmartti Yeah, we put ours at the bottom and sometimes it's hidden but if not, It's easier to plaster than up high.
Or just order your bottom sheets in "wideline" it's 1350mm
Also in New Zealand gib has a wide line option in most lengths which is 1350mm wide
The Makita collated dry wall drill is a game changer. Absolutely love it!
Hi Scott, thanks for the vids, love the music too.
I’ve held many drywall guns but I own the festool, (not because I’m a festool fanboy) but cause it’s truly hands down the best one in my opinion. Depth setting, ease to use, least jams and easy to reset after a jam but most of all low noise motor plus: it only runs as you push it into the wall/ceiling. Can’t recommend it enough. If you got a lot of sheetrock to put up…
The brushless version of that screwgun is out in japan and also the brushless high torque driver version of that is great!.
G, day Scott Brown Carpentry from Sydney, Australia.
In this building renovation, it looks like the R values have been increased for energy efficiency.
* my method of plastering: Gyprock with (blue) stud adhesives 400mm spacing clot nails vertical and screws for ceilings. Finally base coat, tape, topcoat and cornice.
Good job
🌏🇭🇲
Yep. Screw guns are frustrating in 'reno's
Regarding staggering your joints... To avoid a cracked ceiling don't butt join on a batten, backblock and butt join between battens. You can then use a couple bts of timber and 3mm spacer to produce a dip in the butt join that gives a recess for the plaster and tape. Result: a ceiling that will not crack, and perfectly flat, and a happy plasterer too!
Hi Scott, I am a first year apprentice in Auckland, I have been building just for 6 month and I really appreciate every single little tip that you have on your bag. Cheers bro!!!
Great workmanship Lad's & Team work 😊
These videos are over so quick Scott, another interesting episode.👍👍👍
Haha, there will be another one tomorrow!
@@ScottBrownCarpentry You look like a dryWall man to day.
I have the corded version and when it behaves it’s wicked. When it plays up and starts jamming the screws I could throw it in a skip. I sprayed the hell out of it with lube and it definitely improved the mechanism. A bit of a love/hate relationship.
i have that same drill, it took me a day to get used to it but when you get it down it works amazing
Hey Scott don't don't know if you're aware but you can get GIB widening which is 1350mm wide which is ideal for those 2.5m and 2.7m ceiling.
No 1350mm braceline
@@jussi75 No. Wideline refers to 1350. Braceline comes in standard and Wideline as does all the other Gib products such as Aqualine and Fireline.
Just bought the X-lock and 36v rear handle saw for my collection today
Why don't you use a drywall lift? That gotta help you out ALOT instead of lifing it up by hand. Cool to see how other carpenter's from other countries do they'r work. Im a Norwegian carpenter and can tell there's many simularities but also many things that are done differently. I like your episodes. Keep it up!
I’m late to this vid here Scott but I just got one of these in today and I’ve been using it and it’s an updated model it looks different and the depth setting is spot on every time now
I do a lot of DIY drywall and since moving to a cordless belt fed screw gun I love it. But the depth setting is critical I find.
Get yourself a drywall t square and set your drywall sheets leaning against the a wall or have a drywall cart so you can Mark anything out or cut standing up it's way faster and you're not cutting along the edge of a level
Agree.
i just stand it up and use my tape makes it a lot faster
I don't think these guys do much drywall. They do great work, but this isn't their thing.
Brilliant Scotty boy I just resurrected my collated screwgun too on monday mate a gave up on it a year ago pulled it out monday and boom was working great a had to check ma name was on it and a didn't aquire sumone elses lol
Hey Scott, building control asked me to put those straps in to fix the studs to the rafters on one of my jobs.
Every episode is a quality episode, thanks guy!
God your honestly one of the best channels on youtube mate! congrats! your just so good at video content and structure!
In Sweden, almost everyone use the screw-gun! Unfortunately the makita is not the best out there. It would be nice if you could try out a bosch, festool or hilti, it is a night and day difference.
I have the Hilti as well but I find the Makita is consistently better... if you know how to use it. What's hilarious here is Scott still didn't adjust the screw depth with the fine adjustment.
@@DiscoFang I agree the new makita is better than the old one that Scott used. The depth adjust is a key point Cassette
i had this drill for 15 years at least and i had the same problems ,after this video i now have it back in action , cheers Scott 👍 i now have a new Favourite gun the Senco Duraspin DS722-18V its amazing , looks like Gaston is right , always read the manual 😅
I never had an issue with the older Protool/Festool autofeed screw gun. Are there no auto feed attachments for the DFS452/XSF03Z in your neck of the woods? Makita offers one here, but so does Senco. If I ever needed an autofeed again, i’d probably go the xsf03 + senco route.
Another interesting video SBC 😎about joining ceiling panels!😎
When I do ceilings we screw the edge butting into the previous sheet first to make sure the joins tight
Recently had to lay down two layers of fermacell on top of steeldeck. About 100m2 and 50 screws per board, let me tell you i was glad i had this machine. When it does misfire it's a bitch to get the stuck ones out though.
Was a gib fixer for 6 years, used these makita guns every day. They’re the best, they never jam once you learn how to use them🤙 gl
Thats funny. I put up a new ceiling in Chch recently and just put it over the top old one. Not many screws went in so mostly just glue holding it to the old soft board ceiling haha. Not the flattest either.
Thank for the videos. If you have the chance, I personally would be interested in seeing videos detailing historic exterior/ interior window trim and installation. Btw I ordered a smoko T-shirt. I like the design 👍
I’ve used a few of those strip fed drywall guns and the Hilti is by far the best one
I have the hilti and couldn’t agree more. I’ve used the Senco and the makita. The Hilti wins hands down
I use a Milwaukee fuel screw runner with collated screw attachment everyday and I would never go back to hand screw or hand banging nails again lol
Have you ever tried the glue method fo your vertical wallboard? I’m in New England and a lot of the homes are very crooked, ya I cut shims to straighten them out but I’ll do the glue method for extremely flat walls. Makes all the trim very easy when everything is true. Very little scribing. Another great video!
Not meaning to be rude or anything, but isn`t plaster lift a thing down there? I`ve been a carpenter in Norway for 8-9 years now and my body would be even more sore if I didnt have a lift:P PS: fun to see how others work from different countries. keep on making videos!
What, no back blocking on the ceiling sheet joins? Sure Winstone Wallboards say to do it for large areas, but it’s cheap insurance for no cracking on small ceilings too!
Why is a vapor barrier not installed under the plasterboard in New Zealand? Without it, the flap will eventually soften due to moisture because if I've seen correctly, New Zealand roofs have no vapor barriers.
Completely different climate - temperate. Vapour barriers only work in either cold or hot climates - we are neither in NZ. Installing them here within the wall sandwich can actually cause the very problem you're describing.
We have a breathable wrap under the roofing and cladding here, but I'm guessing that's not the same.
Site animals make the work so much better
Thanks for the reply 👍
It seems Spring website does not ship your products to Brazil, as I can't proceed to finish my order. This is bad! 😥
In sweden we are using that drill all the time!! Even for wood on wood, but that makita is the worst one... Try Hilti or Festool, ist like day and night. I use the one from Festool and I love it, but Hilti is the most popular in sweden.
Real craftsmen at work.
Surprised you didn’t end each sheet in the ceiling between a batten so it could be back blocked forming a recessed butt joint. Much easier for the plasterer to float the joint. I supposed it comes down to economical yield and carpenters doing plastering work....or not.
Do you install the sheet rock because you are the general contractor or because carpenters hang drywall in New Zealand? Ya’ll seem to hang a lot of rock for carpenters! Love the channel!
Yeah man, in New Zealand carpenters tend to do a bit of everything. It's pretty normal for us to do everything from concrete to the finishing timber. It may be because of our population size. Either way, there are some crews who specialize, and you see a lot more of that in the commercial sector.
The Hilti ones go up to 51 mm and adjusts the depth by itself.
That' sounds awesome
For a 2700 wall Scott, you should get 1350 wide sheets!
Scott ever try dimple tips for that impact? Not a big fan of using impacts rocking but more than one way to skin a cat
hey mate i'm assuming you may know this but just going by your vertical sheet comment , you can get sq edge to taper 1350 wide sheets (wideline) so you still have a chance to do horizontal in slightly higher than 2.4. situations. and when you have a 2.7. ceiling you use wideline x2. anyway great content as always mate.
Yep. Unfortunately I have to improvise because my bosses never think to order Gib ahead of time, and wideline and taper square is never stocked and has to be ordered.
Yep, I've never been too keen on these screw guns. I've never thought that they've improved on installation time. Too many variables to make them worth the expense and the time. Actually gave mines away! ( 18v Makita ) Kept the batteries though!!! lol. Cheers for the vid. :)
Doooooppe!! The merch link is in the description. Thanks Scott
There should be a little wheel for fine depth adjustment on the tool.
try the hilti its the best that i ever try always perfect
Must admit. I work with a bunch of guys who have the Hilti collated guns. Absolutely rate them highly. Paying a premium price but if you're gibbing all day every day then it's worth it.
All my tools are makita, the best screwgus are the Hilti or Dewalt, i'm a site carpenter I do a ceiling every week the ones to get is either the dewalt or Hilti
Hilti is best👍
Scott I have the same screwdriver and all adjustments are great and all but honestly it’s a bit crap, it gets left in the van as the impact driver smashes it🤣
Hi Scott, I read that houses are extremely expensive in New Zealand. Do you flip houses?
Man I used that drill plastering with some guy on a job. He didnt give a single fuck about where the screws were going for the plasterboard so it’s not like it was accurate. Sped up the process so much though.
Hi Scott, love your videos! You mentioned sound insulation for a wall adjoining an entrance way. What do you use for sound insulation in high noise rooms? What do use in normal rooms where the walls always seems to be stud walls?
Love your work Scott more power
I love what you do man
You guys have got to try Logan Park Bakery which is right next to the cafe for smoko, their pies are amazing! It's my go-to bakery in my suburb of One Tree Hill!
Try different screws, Bosch and Hilti works good with this drill, over 5000screws into wood and metal - zero fault. White stripes are very bad.
I’ve never personally used that screw gun but I’ve seen them be used on job sites and it seems to be a decking thing, I’m a carpenter but haven’t really ever built a deck as there is a local company where that’s all they do so my boss who is a contractor normally just uses them whilst we focus on the house itself, but yeah I always see the decking guys use those. Maybe the fairest and best test for it will be when you next do a deck because it’s quite a specific tool I think
My Milwaukee with the screw attachment works great. Old timber is a headache tho.
Hey Scott. I was wondering about the way you use the “plaster glue” when you place plaster boards. I am a carpenter in Denmark and we do not use the “glue”. I have followed you for about a year and I think it’s fun to see the difference between countries
For higher ceilings you should teach your self the fine art of ladder walking. Still blows my mind every time I see it
ive only ever heard people having a whinge about them makita guns. i bought a dewalt one and its decent like. the one annoying part of all of them is the lack of being able to work well in corners
The Makitas are actually one of the best. I have used both the Makita and the Dewalt as well as the Senco ones. The Dewalt isn't bad but it's definitely not the best. Both the Makita and the Senco are better.
Love your videos and I'm generally impressed with what you do and how you do it. However in this case you should read the Gib guide. There are a few things you've done wrong with that ceiling
what about the continuous join along the long edge of the pb?
also i have the machine. In the beginning i hate him, but after some practice i love the machine : -) and now I don't want anything else anymore it goes so much faster than a normal machine.
I don't like the butt joins on the battens. They should be between the battens and backblocked with CoveBond, and if you really want your plasterers happy, you put two small packers or nails over the joins and then get two bits of timber long enough to span between the battens and screw them on temporarily. This will push a taper into the butt join, and once the Covebond sets it will hold that taper.
hi from colorado dry wall is hard work the jobis comming to a end
my god, that cat at 10:51 is pretty cute.
I sheeted two 3 bedroom houses with one of those, at the start I was shit, had to adjust almost every screw I put in, by the end of the second house I had to adjust almost none of them, didn't touch one for 6 months and had to sheet another houses, was dog shit again 😂
Why didn’t you used wideline job horizontally??
Hahaha oh Scott when I watched your original video about the screw gun I had a laugh. They make the tools for a reason ;)
Adhesive with plasterboard seems like overkill. Futures trades removing that will love you guy's .
i follow guys that use nail guns and screwguns.... i probably spend an hour of my prep time just fixing fixings that are too proud or so deep the head has split the timber. so those guns arent really saving any time at all. thats why as a finisher i will only use an impact.
You are following people who are crap at their job. I never leave screws or nails proud, and I mostly use guns. I always systematically check all the screws with a jointing knife after I have finished hanging all my Gib. And I wouldn't dream of hand nailing my finishing lines, nobody is going to pay that kind of money for a job that is no better.
Loving the content. Best bit smoko time
I noticed you were joining the sheets on the batten. A few years ago I did that instead of joining in between the batten and back blocking and my boss ripped me apart. im still confused to this day what is the right way lol
If you join of the batten and back block. You put some temporary bits of wood and a wedge to bow up the join. So when the plasterers finish the join they can just go flat instead of feathering.
If you join on the batten you cant bow up the join as it's fixed.
Interesting, how much do you shim up the joining timber?
@@neild7971 just use a 3mm nail or something similar. Just means an easy finish for taping.
If you google gib site guide theres a big manual. Then search ceiling installation and tapered edge.
Don’t you get 1350 wide sheets in NZ
Have you guys heard about a plaster lift? Or do you like being tired?
you probably know, but in UK the plaster board sheets are 12.5mm thick x 2.4 x 1.2.
is that some sort of grab adhesive you put on the timbers first?
We screw and glue on our plaster board sheets here in New Zealand 🇳🇿. Far better finish.
@@robertw383 i agree, i'm an electrician and see lots of these installs. interesting to see how different parts of the worlds do things.
thankyou for your reply, will be mentioned on our next tea break. all the best and keep up the good work chaps.
There are rules to gluing our plasterboard. Screw the perimeter at 300mm centers, or on the battens in the case of ceilings, and daubs of glue at 200mm intervals, no less than 200mm away from any screws. Glue and screws must NEVER meet each other. We tend to screw the center of the sheet with ceilings too, so for a 1200 wide sheet running across the battens, we glue at 200, 400, 800 and 1000mmm. 4 daubs, with a 400mm space in between for our center screw.
Hey Scott What's the glue for on the back off the boards. I'm from the UK and I've never seen that done before and I see that you do it all the time.
Stability “glue it and screw it”
Not sure what you have available in the UK, but on this side of the pond we use either Loctite PL100 Drywall Construction Adhesive or my favorite, OSI F38 Drywall and Panel Adhesive. Either is about $5.00 per 28oz tube. Small price to pay for additional fastening and also reducing the need for additional screws in the field.
We use a specific gib-board (drywall sheet) water-based adhesive that has zero slump. One of the strongest and fastest to use is spray foam adhesive with the proper gun, but the worst thing is it will get on EVERYTHING. Water based far nicer to use.
They are using Gibfix One. Closest I've seen that may be available internationally is Sika Nailbond Fast. It's water based stuff. I prefer Gibfix Allbond, which is solvent based and flexible. I haven't seen anything else like it, but I would say any flexible construction adhesive that comes out thick and doesn't slump or run will work. Standard construction adhesive won't work because it's too runny and will just make a mess. One advantage of these glues is that they will bridge up to about a 10mm gap between the plasterboard and the framing, so you don't have to spend as much time trying to straighten walls, as long as the perimeter of the sheet is straight and the studs aren't bowing out then you're good.
paero u got some new ink done bruva
I had the same problem with my drywall gun until someone said “have you done the screw depth adjustment” I felt such a idiot 😂😂
I bought one. Brand new out of the box it wasn't working. I was ready to throw it over the fence then decided to skim over the manual. Depth adjustment fixed it instantly. 😂🤣
I hate it when you accidentally knock it into reverse, then wonder why the gods hate me.
@@oystercovecraftsman9219 I Chucked mine back in the lockup😂😂
I ended up binning this gun, when screws get stuck in the barrel you have to pull it apart to release them.
We have 1350mm wide sheets in Aus >_>