£3000 now buys about the same as £1000 did 5 years ago. With regard to the Yaris, avoid the Multimode automated manual (MMT). They are known for problems. A friend of mine had no end of issues with his.
People don't maintain cars properly then moan their car is unreliable. They wait until a major problem presents itself which can often be avoided through further fixing a minor problem. I've had a Peugeot 207 1.6hdi and a ford with the same engine, both flawless. I will say the Peugeot is however weak on the front end and the wishbones needed replacing at 80k
Probably at these prices the maintenance and general care plus who you buy it from are the deciding factors. Even a Honda can be knackered by the right people.
The 2.2 Diesel in the Land Rover was reliable because it wasn't made by them Ford and Peugeot developed the engine and it was basically just an upgrade 2.2 Diesel from the Transit van.
Imagine buying an Audi TTS for 3k. Thats insanity. I've spent just as much fixing it 😅 actually who am i kidding ive spent double. In my opinion the only cheap car you should buy (if you like cars) is one you can afford to buy AND fix. That way you might end up with a car you actually like that didnt cost 40 grand but its still gonna be a money pit. Unfortunately i do not view cars as just a functional thing. I love cars and i love driving. So this is the only model that works for me. Otherwise I'd just buy an old volvo and drive it until im dead. Mechanical sympathy is what matters. Not MOT or service history really. It's about understanding cars and paying the money to keep them straight.
A lot of diesels here. I wouldn't touch a diesel anymore. I used to love a diesel years ago when they were slow and reliable and didn't even have turbos
I wont say the corsa D is reliable by any means based on general owner however i own one for 3 years now as my first car I bought it with 62k miles and it has been extremely reliable for me most expensive thing I paid for it was a shock absorver £130 all done, I think reliability has to do with maintaining and how you treat the car but also luck what is reliable for you might not be for another person
I cannot recommend anyone buys the 1.6 diesel variants of the Octavia, or any VW diesel below 2 or 1.9 litres. I used to work for a Skoda specialist and those 1.6’s were just awful. DPF blocking, EGR failures on 40k mile cars, and they just stank on idle. Gutless. The 1.9/ 2.0 is engine choice for taxis.
My Suzuki Swift has been faultless in my 4 years of ownership. It is coming up to 8 years of age now and it is still a joy to drive and cheap to run. I look at the price of used cars now and think I’ll keep the Swift for a good while yet.
Totally agree the prices of cars now are unnecessarily high, keep the Suzuki Swift as long as possible , I have only heard good things of their reliability.👍
have 2010 1.6tdi Octavia 220000 miles on clock, brilliant engine gearbox steering, but ah, now have airbag warning light on, after 2k euro spent on timing belt water pump, thermostat, abs ring and sensor, EGR cooler and valve,
had my civic 2.2 diesel for 16 years bought it with 8k miles on now 160k miles , its been fantastic but i did replace the rear beam a year ago only other things have been wear and tare items . still on the original clutch .
I had a 2010 Hyundai i10 until recently and had owned it for 5 years. Other than break pads and discs, 4 tyres the only thing that went went wrong was a sensor that cost £8 odd to fix
I want a volvo xc90 t8 ,in the new year, about 2017, but they arnt cheap, , should i go to a acution, or haggle with a private seller or dealer ?i love this channel
Beg, borrow or steal the extra you need to get one through a dealer, get some warranty with it, Camerons Volvo in Perth (scotland, not australia, very highly recommended).
£3000 now buys about the same as £1000 did 5 years ago. With regard to the Yaris, avoid the Multimode automated manual (MMT). They are known for problems. A friend of mine had no end of issues with his.
Totally agree.
People don't maintain cars properly then moan their car is unreliable. They wait until a major problem presents itself which can often be avoided through further fixing a minor problem. I've had a Peugeot 207 1.6hdi and a ford with the same engine, both flawless. I will say the Peugeot is however weak on the front end and the wishbones needed replacing at 80k
Peugeots have the worst clutches I've ever experienced horrible to drive. I would never buy one and that's before even considering relability.
Probably at these prices the maintenance and general care plus who you buy it from are the deciding factors. Even a Honda can be knackered by the right people.
Thing is they change their oil with cheap oil which isn't good in the long run.
I had a Volvo p2 V70 , went to 289,000 miles before scrapping it, only paid £500 and had it for 4 years without even so much as an oil change.
4 years without an oil change is brave. Oil is literally £16 for comma oil on e bay its what I've used for the last 20 years with no issues.
My car buying strategy has always been to buy a car for 3k run for 5 years then sell for 1k, I think that's the best bang for bucks motoring.
I buy for £2k with £1k reserve to do up.
The 2.2 Diesel in the Land Rover was reliable because it wasn't made by them Ford and Peugeot developed the engine and it was basically just an upgrade 2.2 Diesel from the Transit van.
Imagine buying an Audi TTS for 3k. Thats insanity.
I've spent just as much fixing it 😅 actually who am i kidding ive spent double.
In my opinion the only cheap car you should buy (if you like cars) is one you can afford to buy AND fix. That way you might end up with a car you actually like that didnt cost 40 grand but its still gonna be a money pit.
Unfortunately i do not view cars as just a functional thing. I love cars and i love driving. So this is the only model that works for me.
Otherwise I'd just buy an old volvo and drive it until im dead.
Mechanical sympathy is what matters. Not MOT or service history really. It's about understanding cars and paying the money to keep them straight.
A lot of diesels here. I wouldn't touch a diesel anymore. I used to love a diesel years ago when they were slow and reliable and didn't even have turbos
I wont say the corsa D is reliable by any means based on general owner however i own one for 3 years now as my first car I bought it with 62k miles and it has been extremely reliable for me most expensive thing I paid for it was a shock absorver £130 all done, I think reliability has to do with maintaining and how you treat the car but also luck what is reliable for you might not be for another person
I cannot recommend anyone buys the 1.6 diesel variants of the Octavia, or any VW diesel below 2 or 1.9 litres. I used to work for a Skoda specialist and those 1.6’s were just awful. DPF blocking, EGR failures on 40k mile cars, and they just stank on idle. Gutless. The 1.9/ 2.0 is engine choice for taxis.
All cars have their problems however some have a lot more than others , I will stick with Honda for now !
My Suzuki Swift has been faultless in my 4 years of ownership. It is coming up to 8 years of age now and it is still a joy to drive and cheap to run. I look at the price of used cars now and think I’ll keep the Swift for a good while yet.
Totally agree the prices of cars now are unnecessarily high, keep the Suzuki Swift as long as possible , I have only heard good things of their reliability.👍
We had a new Corsa that needed a Timing Chain before it's first service started rattling on start up with 3k on the clock, Absolute 💩
have 2010 1.6tdi Octavia 220000 miles on clock, brilliant engine gearbox steering, but ah, now have airbag warning light on, after 2k euro spent on timing belt water pump, thermostat, abs ring and sensor, EGR cooler and valve,
had my civic 2.2 diesel for 16 years bought it with 8k miles on now 160k miles , its been fantastic but i did replace the rear beam a year ago only other things have been wear and tare items . still on the original clutch .
I'm looking at one of those. How much was the replacement beam??
@@cz9860 eBay £180 plus fitting.
I had a 2010 Hyundai i10 until recently and had owned it for 5 years. Other than break pads and discs, 4 tyres the only thing that went went wrong was a sensor that cost £8 odd to fix
Love me some structural underseal
Is Japanese rust more reliable than other nations rust?
Thank you Grant. Love your channel. How's the souped up Honda Jazz?
I have a chance of a Toyota urban cruiser. It's a 2004 I think. 1.4 diesel engine. Is there anything I need to check out before using it?
How do you track the previous price via auto trader?
It appears to be a Chrome Browser extension called: AT Price Tracker
Can't there be clutch and injector/pump probs on the d crv?
I want a volvo xc90 t8 ,in the new year, about 2017, but they arnt cheap, , should i go to a acution, or haggle with a private seller or dealer ?i love this channel
Private seller or dealer imho, it might have gone to an auction for a reason.
Beg, borrow or steal the extra you need to get one through a dealer, get some warranty with it, Camerons Volvo in Perth (scotland, not australia, very highly recommended).
3.0 diesel must be Saab 9-5 tid
jeeezzzzzz NO GO AVOID YES avoid wet belt cars 1.2 pure tech are crap engines,aarrr.🙄😒
why are you speaking in French ??????????????????????????????????????????????
It's 👌