Love the 1A videos and Sue - but, be aware, if you do not have the same tools she uses you could have problems. Did this procedure on my '04 Element but without the lift, just using jacks and jackstands. One problem of not having the vehicle high off the ground is getting the angles and torque to remove the bolts. With the vehicle up high you would have better angles, on jackstands you have to work with more things in the way (including the garage floor, the biggest obstacle), and breaking the bolts free is difficult. Also, when installing the new struts, I found that trying to use pry bar to drop the control arm to line up the strut to line up the new bolt to be impossible for me working alone (might have worked better with a helper). This too would have been much easier with the vehicle higher off the floor. After much frustration, I came up with this - take a socket (to make a base) and a short extension from my rachet set, put them together, and set them on my floor jack (a little duct tape would help keep them in place and be safer). This may not work on all types of jacks. Place the floor jack under the new strut so that the rachet extension piece fits up through the slot in the bracket directly under the new strut . Jack up the strut (carefully!) until the holes lines up vertically with the bracket holes, then use a pry bar or large screwdriver to lever the strut over and line up the holes horizontally, then get the bolt in and tightened. This rig also helps when removing the old struts, as it can take the pressure off the bolt making it easier to break free.
The top mounting nuts on my '03 are 14mm, not 15 as mentioned in the video. Sue, you are an amazing mechanic. You have given me the confidence to do my own work. I will be installing new struts front/ rear this week. Thank you.
I love your videos. Always super concise and helpfu. l I've never lived in the northeast, but between the accent and the rust on all the cars, I can tell that's where this is happening. The amount rust from the salt on the roads makes me cringe every time.
+@mischieftoolsmusic8779 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Another excellent video. The torque values are really handy. I'm down to the Left Rear. I was pretty apprehensive about the filter box until I saw your fix. Look out tomorrow as LowGear, another of my aliases, will be on it.
Handy tip I found elsewhere for that bottom bolt. Disconnect the upper control arm to release all of the tension in the spring. Still a PITA to get loose, but it will move with some muscle and leverage.
This vehicle in particular makes me feel good about my own element living in the noertheast. I hate watching videos where the car is just spotless and free of any rust. It’s just the reality of living in the rust belt.
Man great video i did the fronts first and im stuck doing the back one and can't get the nut loose for the love of god 😒 having a jack lift like yours is a lot better than a home Jack with some jack stands you definitely have the advantage over that
I love how nothing about my Honda Element is ever the same as these 1A auto videos I don't even have a loose nut for my bottom strut it's like a c clip that the bolt goes through and then threads into a bolt that's welded on to the clip but of course it took gorilla strength just to get thx bolt out. It was ridiculous. My lower control arm was putting so much pressure it slammed the strut out of the way when I got the bolt out. It took my 30 minutes to get that bolt out.
I went to do the job, got the wheels off, and I saw where the hex nut should be on the main strut bolt was a smooth, thick, washer/nut, both sides. After 2 of us trying to looses the bolts, using penetrating oil and multiple angles, we gave up. It's on a 2007 Element. I've never seen these smooth nuts before.
On my 2006 Element EX, the EVAP canister’s housing is held in place on the bracket via a pair of nuts fastened to studs that pass through the top of the bracket. There’s enough space between the bracket and the floor of the vehicle to use a socket wrench on the two nuts, and the canister comes off the bracket and can be moved enough to work with the strut/spring assembly.
I just got done doing this to my Honda...took me a long time to line up the rear strut holes to mount up even with a prybar in place. I didn't snap either of the evap bolts, but I sure thought I was going to. ziping it in with self tappers was a good idea, the bolts I snapped were on the rear sway bar bushings, no choice but to drill them out, but I will probably put a nut on the back side. Great video and thanks!
Well this was a great video, and I like how you showed that bolts do snap and there is often an easy fix. As for my 2005 element, neither heat or penetrating oil did anything to help crack those bolts. Instead the welds on the threaded round sleeve snap off the arm. So I guess it's cutter time. Question is where did that 21mm bolt come from. Thanks for the advice!👍
I purchased the rear strut assemblies for my Element from 1 A Auto. I see clearly rear left and rear right orientation labels. Does it matter which way the assembly faces? Can they mount either way?
Bought my struts from 1a, watched this video several times and felt completely prepared. At the very second step of removing the bolt from the bottom of the strut assembly I already failed out. I couldn't for the life of me get the bolt out. I used several different rust penetrators and an impact wrench capable of 330 ft/lbs. Is there anything else I can do? I cant get this bolt out to save my life. And on the opposite side, it's not even a hex nut. It appears to just be some sort of circle nut, with no grippers on it at all. Not even worn down, it's a perfectly smooth circle.
+Villamor78 Thanks for checking us out! The top mounting bolts are just holding the strut to the vehicle. The bottom mounting bolts are holding onto the other suspension parts.
I also have an 06 honda element. Mine is an EX. Interesting thing though, mine does not have a nut on the other side of the 17mm lower strut bolt. In stead there is a threaded bolt receiver welded to the end where the nut should be.
Thanks! Did a little research and found out that the nut is definitely aftermarket. Probably broke the receiver off(just like i did). Anyway it would save me A LOT of trouble and headache if you could give me information on the size of that nut and maybe where i could get one. Let me know if you have any info.
Realistically, how many hours of labor should a strut replacement take? I have the struts, I just want to make sure I’m not taken for a ride on the labor costs.
I love these videos and the fact that 1A offers full suspension kits, but honestly the reviews online for TRQ struts are not great. I want to be brand loyal to 1A for creating these great videos and also curating the kits and having a really well-done, easy-to-navigate website, but don't want to redo this job in 10-15k miles. I wish 1A would up the quality of their offerings (especially the curated suspension kits) even if it the price went up. These jobs are way too labor intensive to have to do it again after a year or two. Even getting another part under warranty would be a huge pain.
When using just a jack and jack stand on one side, can you get back on the vehicle to remove the top 2 nuts? or should you have both sides on stands? or can you remove the nuts prior to lifting?
+Johnny Lee Thanks for watching! You can always at least break the bolts off first but not fully remove them. Ideally you want to have both sides up at the same time, but as long as you're careful you can do one side at a time.
I wish I would have tried to break the lower strut mount bolts before buying these. I have tried PB Blast and heat. They still won't budge. I am afraid to keep going in case I break one, or both of the bolts to be sure I can get a replacement. But then I don't have the tools to get the broken piece out. It seems that a few other have had this problem. I don't mind breaking an extension, but really don't want to break a bolt. It seems that they are welded in. I will try PB Blast one more time and leave it over night, but I have already flooded it. This is one time PB Blast has not worked for me. Careful everyone, don't break the lower bolt unless you are a full shop that can fix it.
+DG Thanks for checking us out! This is used to align the bottom mount of the strut by providing leverage to adjust this and get the bolt through the bottom of the strut assembly. If you do not have a pry bar this long it may be more difficult to get this to align. 1aauto.com
What do I do if the lower strut assembly on the new strut does not line up with the mounting bracket? It is twisted about 45deg and it won’t go in? It doesn’t seem like I can twist it.
+evan vadala Thanks for watching! For struts, install the top first, then install the bottom. The strut mount assembly includes a bearing that allows the strut to rotate to the correct mounting position.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
11:00 you’re a wizard Getting that tire up so fast using your leg and then spinning it and lining up the studs so smooth like dang! That’s skill
I was all ready to do this job but then I watched you break those bolts. Damn.
Love the 1A videos and Sue - but, be aware, if you do not have the same tools she uses you could have problems. Did this procedure on my '04 Element but without the lift, just using jacks and jackstands. One problem of not having the vehicle high off the ground is getting the angles and torque to remove the bolts. With the vehicle up high you would have better angles, on jackstands you have to work with more things in the way (including the garage floor, the biggest obstacle), and breaking the bolts free is difficult. Also, when installing the new struts, I found that trying to use pry bar to drop the control arm to line up the strut to line up the new bolt to be impossible for me working alone (might have worked better with a helper). This too would have been much easier with the vehicle higher off the floor. After much frustration, I came up with this - take a socket (to make a base) and a short extension from my rachet set, put them together, and set them on my floor jack (a little duct tape would help keep them in place and be safer). This may not work on all types of jacks. Place the floor jack under the new strut so that the rachet extension piece fits up through the slot in the bracket directly under the new strut . Jack up the strut (carefully!) until the holes lines up vertically with the bracket holes, then use a pry bar or large screwdriver to lever the strut over and line up the holes horizontally, then get the bolt in and tightened. This rig also helps when removing the old struts, as it can take the pressure off the bolt making it easier to break free.
Thanks for that info, Joe. My '06 needs rear struts and I was contemplating replacing them myself. Not anymore.
Best video out there that shows how to remove the rear struts, and shows the evap canister and how to deal with it. Thank you!
+Jaroslav Zita Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com
Your a great teacher btw especially with speaking what your thinking as your doing it
Sue is the best technician in the game!!!
Sue is my go to Element teacher!!
Great video and skilled mechanic. This channel has saved me alot of stress and time on my 08. 👏👏👏
My 05 EX was less rusty but I had to use a cutoff wheel to cut the bolts out on both sides! Most brutal strut removal ever for me!
The top mounting nuts on my '03 are 14mm, not 15 as mentioned in the video.
Sue, you are an amazing mechanic. You have given me the confidence to do my own work. I will be installing new struts front/ rear this week.
Thank you.
+fred bear Thanks for the tip and positive feedback. We will pass it along to Sue!
I love your videos. Always super concise and helpfu. l I've never lived in the northeast, but between the accent and the rust on all the cars, I can tell that's where this is happening. The amount rust from the salt on the roads makes me cringe every time.
+@mischieftoolsmusic8779 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Another excellent video. The torque values are really handy. I'm down to the Left Rear. I was pretty apprehensive about the filter box until I saw your fix. Look out tomorrow as LowGear, another of my aliases, will be on it.
She did a great job!
Handy tip I found elsewhere for that bottom bolt. Disconnect the upper control arm to release all of the tension in the spring. Still a PITA to get loose, but it will move with some muscle and leverage.
Mis respetos para esta mujer, saludos desde Honduras
This vehicle in particular makes me feel good about my own element living in the noertheast. I hate watching videos where the car is just spotless and free of any rust. It’s just the reality of living in the rust belt.
Watched the video, then bought the parts from you. Give Sue a commission! I'll be hitting all those bolts and nuts with PB Blaster a day in advance!
+Hiram McDaniel Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
3:01 for future DIY the nut for the bottom bolt is welded onto the trailing are. Don't try to remove it if it is still in good shape.
Do you have to put load of the car to torque the bottom bolt? Wondering because of the bushing.
yes you do
Man great video i did the fronts first and im stuck doing the back one and can't get the nut loose for the love of god 😒 having a jack lift like yours is a lot better than a home Jack with some jack stands you definitely have the advantage over that
I love how nothing about my Honda Element is ever the same as these 1A auto videos I don't even have a loose nut for my bottom strut it's like a c clip that the bolt goes through and then threads into a bolt that's welded on to the clip but of course it took gorilla strength just to get thx bolt out. It was ridiculous. My lower control arm was putting so much pressure it slammed the strut out of the way when I got the bolt out. It took my 30 minutes to get that bolt out.
I went to do the job, got the wheels off, and I saw where the hex nut should be on the main strut bolt was a smooth, thick, washer/nut, both sides. After 2 of us trying to looses the bolts, using penetrating oil and multiple angles, we gave up. It's on a 2007 Element. I've never seen these smooth nuts before.
She made that look so easy..
On my 2006 Element EX, the EVAP canister’s housing is held in place on the bracket via a pair of nuts fastened to studs that pass through the top of the bracket. There’s enough space between the bracket and the floor of the vehicle to use a socket wrench on the two nuts, and the canister comes off the bracket and can be moved enough to work with the strut/spring assembly.
Another great video. Thanks for saving me time and aggravation.
+Schuyler Alexander Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Nice work.
I just got done doing this to my Honda...took me a long time to line up the rear strut holes to mount up even with a prybar in place. I didn't snap either of the evap bolts, but I sure thought I was going to. ziping it in with self tappers was a good idea, the bolts I snapped were on the rear sway bar bushings, no choice but to drill them out, but I will probably put a nut on the back side. Great video and thanks!
+Stan E Thanks for checking us out. 1AAuto.com
Great video thanks for the information
Well this was a great video, and I like how you showed that bolts do snap and there is often an easy fix. As for my 2005 element, neither heat or penetrating oil did anything to help crack those bolts. Instead the welds on the threaded round sleeve snap off the arm. So I guess it's cutter time. Question is where did that 21mm bolt come from. Thanks for the advice!👍
+DrumnDetect Thanks for checking us out! The 21 mm nut is removed from the 18 mm lower strut mounting bolt 1AAuto.com
I purchased the rear strut assemblies for my Element from 1 A Auto. I see clearly rear left and rear right orientation labels. Does it matter which way the assembly faces? Can they mount either way?
Bought my struts from 1a, watched this video several times and felt completely prepared. At the very second step of removing the bolt from the bottom of the strut assembly I already failed out. I couldn't for the life of me get the bolt out. I used several different rust penetrators and an impact wrench capable of 330 ft/lbs.
Is there anything else I can do? I cant get this bolt out to save my life. And on the opposite side, it's not even a hex nut. It appears to just be some sort of circle nut, with no grippers on it at all. Not even worn down, it's a perfectly smooth circle.
I’m having the same issue, what did you do to get the bolt out? I ended up cutting one side off in hopes it would pop out
Great job lady ... you gave me inspiration.. I’m a lady too
+MASTER World Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
How come you can torque to the top of the strut with the car still jacked, but you need the car on its wheels when torquing the front struts?
+Villamor78 Thanks for checking us out! The top mounting bolts are just holding the strut to the vehicle. The bottom mounting bolts are holding onto the other suspension parts.
Element comes apart like a Lego
I also have an 06 honda element. Mine is an EX. Interesting thing though, mine does not have a nut on the other side of the 17mm lower strut bolt. In stead there is a threaded bolt receiver welded to the end where the nut should be.
+Simon Crane Thanks for the feedback! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
Thanks! Did a little research and found out that the nut is definitely aftermarket. Probably broke the receiver off(just like i did). Anyway it would save me A LOT of trouble and headache if you could give me information on the size of that nut and maybe where i could get one. Let me know if you have any info.
Realistically, how many hours of labor should a strut replacement take? I have the struts, I just want to make sure I’m not taken for a ride on the labor costs.
I love these videos and the fact that 1A offers full suspension kits, but honestly the reviews online for TRQ struts are not great. I want to be brand loyal to 1A for creating these great videos and also curating the kits and having a really well-done, easy-to-navigate website, but don't want to redo this job in 10-15k miles. I wish 1A would up the quality of their offerings (especially the curated suspension kits) even if it the price went up. These jobs are way too labor intensive to have to do it again after a year or two. Even getting another part under warranty would be a huge pain.
When using just a jack and jack stand on one side, can you get back on the vehicle to remove the top 2 nuts? or should you have both sides on stands? or can you remove the nuts prior to lifting?
+Johnny Lee Thanks for watching! You can always at least break the bolts off first but not fully remove them. Ideally you want to have both sides up at the same time, but as long as you're careful you can do one side at a time.
Thank you for the advise and the how to video. 🙏
+Johnny Lee Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Super.nice thanks
I wish I would have tried to break the lower strut mount bolts before buying these. I have tried PB Blast and heat. They still won't budge. I am afraid to keep going in case I break one, or both of the bolts to be sure I can get a replacement. But then I don't have the tools to get the broken piece out. It seems that a few other have had this problem. I don't mind breaking an extension, but really don't want to break a bolt. It seems that they are welded in. I will try PB Blast one more time and leave it over night, but I have already flooded it. This is one time PB Blast has not worked for me. Careful everyone, don't break the lower bolt unless you are a full shop that can fix it.
+Gina Pearson Thanks for the feedback!
Why does the long pry bar has to be resting on the differential? What if I don't have that long pry bar? I have to do this tomorrow.
+DG Thanks for checking us out! This is used to align the bottom mount of the strut by providing leverage to adjust this and get the bolt through the bottom of the strut assembly. If you do not have a pry bar this long it may be more difficult to get this to align. 1aauto.com
i'm worried how long those self tapping screws are gonna hold.
What do I do if the lower strut assembly on the new strut does not line up with the mounting bracket? It is twisted about 45deg and it won’t go in? It doesn’t seem like I can twist it.
+evan vadala Thanks for watching! For struts, install the top first, then install the bottom. The strut mount assembly includes a bearing that allows the strut to rotate to the correct mounting position.
Pro tip: Always use body weight when possible to loosen/tighten lug nuts. Thank you said your back!
Has anyone just replaced the boots?
Great except....
Use a Crowsfoot on the nut and torque to specs.
Torquing head of bolt is never accurate.
Oh bullshit..straight on torque is the only accurate way to assure correct torque.. when torque is measured off center its inaccurate.
Looks impossible to do on jack stands…
wear your safety glasses