Fixing A Microwave Where the Fan Starts When the Door is Opened
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- Опубліковано 9 вер 2024
- In my GE JVM1790SK 01 microwave oven (and many similar models), there are three switches to be VERY sure the door is shut before the magnetron is energized. If the top switch isn't changing when the door is opened, the fan comes on. This is to alert you that there is a problem.
This video shows how the three switches are mounted so that you can pull them out and get a replacement switch installed. The video chronicles the steps I took to get my microwave fixed. In the video, you'll see that there are two 07811C SZM-V16-FA-63 (normally open) switches (top and bottom), and one 27817C SZM-V16-FA-62 (normally closed) switch (middle). I'm sure there are dozens of alternate part numbers for these switches.
A few months before this video, I had the same symptom, and "fixed" it by taking the switch apart and bending one of the internal springs. The problem with that kind of "fix" is that it didn't last very long. This time, I replaced the switch with an equivalent one that I took from a non-functional microwave that I had thrown out (but saved the door switches, because I thought they might come in handy). I didn't look but I'm sure you could get these switches for cheap on eBay or Amazon.
I can’t tell you how much you helped me! With your instructions, I felt like MacGyver.
You saved me so much money buying a new microwave and the hassle of someone coming to my house for the installation.
I bought all three switches on Amazon for about $15.
I'm so happy to hear stories like yours!
We would open the door and the fan would come on and the plate was rotating. Ordered the part from Amazon, (got 2 parts for less than GE wanted for 1). I changed both switches in about 15 minutes. I am so thankful for this video.
Ah, Glad you got the parts for less, and got them installed!
I actually had the opposite problem, where the turntable light and fan would be on with door shut and it would not let me push start. Where you said that the bottom switch would likely be the issue in this case, you were absolutely correct! I was able to adjust how that switch was sitting in the holder and the microwave works great. Thanks so much for you insight!
Ha! I think that was just a guess on my part. Thanks for sharing your experience. Hopefully people will see it in the comments, I "hearted" it.
Thanks for your help. That was so kind of you to share. The video addresses exactly the problem I am having with our microwave and your explanation was as calm and logical as I could ask for.
And thank you for writing the kind words. My friends tell me, when they watch my videos, it sounds like we're sitting in my living room and I'm telling them a story. But they also sometimes fall asleep while I'm talking, lol!
Thanks for the video. ordered the switch and replaced it and now the microwave is working!
Excellent!
Thank you for showing the details on how to remove the switch assembly. I have seen many videos, and none of them showed the level of detail you did. It wil certainly help many of us avoid breaking the plastic tabs
I often look on youtube myself before undertaking the project. And if they gloss-over or don't mention at all some of the inconveniences to the repair, I try to put out a video.
Thanks for a calm, clear and well-shot demo. You make it look easy enough for even me to follow!
Wow, that's a nice comment to get. I do take time to try to set-up shots so that it's clear what's happening, although I'm not always successful. I do recall that I had to suspend the electrical panel in a way that allowed the shot.
@@sengsational 0
Thanks for making and sharing this video! I have the same issue and now I have a clear picture of what I need to do. Thanks!
Great! I hope you can get your oven working again.
My Samsung has the opposite problem. The fan and light stays on with the door shut. I tested the three switches and they look good. As you said it may just be that the switch has become defective. So I will be ordering the switches and hopefully it solves the problem.
Thanks for the small tip that many people omit.
Yes, Daniel, depending on which switch is bad, the oven will exhibit different strangeness. One thing it thankfully won't do if one of the switches is bad is energize the magnetron! That's why they call it a "fail-safe". But yeah, if those those door switches don't "agree", they've got it rigged so you know it.
@@sengsational I got two new switches for the top and bottom and replaced them. I still have the same problem. The fan and light comes on when the door is shut and goes off when the door is open. It looks like it may be something outside the switches area. A relay ? I did test the old switches and they looked fine per multimeter tests.
@@sengsational Another thing I realized is, could it be that the door hook does not make contact with the small red button of the lower switch when shutting it? The microwave is about 8 years old Samsung over the range.
Very helpful - thanks!
Glad you got some mileage from it. This microwave is still in operation after many years, so those alternate switches are still making the right connections.
Ah damn. Curiosity got the better of me and I popped the same tab you did on that top switch.
In my case, the bottom switch seems to be the troublesome one, so it was probably entirely unnecessary for me to pull the top one out. 😝
Thanks for the tips on how the other two switches come out though! That probably saved me from snapping even more tabs.
My microwave is a GE model JES2051DN2WW. The plastic thing the switches mount to is somewhat different than the one in the video, but it's close enough.
Oops! The plastic isn't very forgiving. Anyway, Glad your model was similar, and thanks for posting the helpful comment.
This is a great video!!! Great tips thank you!
Thanks for the complement. I try to actually show things that make it easier for people to tackle their repair issue.
Soory my bad, I want to let you know that I have replaced the capacitor since it was bad( with the same value) & also I replaced one thermo state which was bad. I did not replaced all of them(4 pc.) As in your video even if switches were ok but you replaced it & it works.
So glad you got yours working. I'm popping this comment up to the top because it might be that your situation is more common (bad capacitor). The thing about replacing all the switches...YES! you might as well get 'fresh' hardware in there, as long as you've got the machine out on the bench.
Thanks for sharing!
Glad to help!
I had two problems. The one mentioned in this video and the other where the microwave would not heat nor spin. I checked, and two of the switches are broken. One did not allow any current to pass through without clicking the switch, and one kept the current going unless clicked.
Right, these switches are usually of the type "NO" (normally open) or "NC" (normally closed). Depending on how they designed the circuits, they put those different types of switches in. I never know what I'm going to encounter, so I just put an ohm meter on the switch and make sure it changes when clicked. But one of the problems with these cheap switches is sometimes you can get it to work when you manually click, but when the switch gets pressed by the door, it doesn't work. Intermittent stuff like that can drive you bonkers!
Thank you very much
Thanks for commenting. You are very welcome.
My G.E. microwave's fan would kick on when the door opened, took the top plastic vent off, touch panel, and then the switch bracket, all the switches clicked when i pressed the tab on them, took some sand paper and cleaned up the contacts, put everything back together and works good as new
I "hearted" your comment so others would see it. Yes, you can fiddle with the switches to get them working if you'd rather not buy new. I've done that before, but I've also had them revert to their former (ineffective) behavior! I hope your switches keep clicking!
my god, I fell asleep watching it. gonna try again
Hahaha! I know, I'm so boring. My friends fall asleep when I tell them a 30 second story.
my microwave is doing this occasionally. its an 'older' GE, but its not That old in my opinion, just a 2011 or so. as far as microwave 'radiation' , they use electromagnetic radiation, which is what is in an Xray. it is NOT ionic radiation, which is what causes cellular damage. you could sit in a microwave that was running, and if the heat didnt bother you, you'd be fine. the fact its a food related device means its regulated by Seriously stringent regulation. you wont get hurt , even if the magneto is powered on, just dont touch one.
I just don't like the idea of being heated-up (or burned) with microwave radiation, but I do think I probably was conflating ionizing radiation, which can do damage without you feeling anything.
Never mind. I found the solution for this issue. I had an impression that thermo state has to be NC (Normally )closed for ever. Unfortunately, thermo state switch (vent motor & fan motor) should have NO (Normally open). I replaced with NO & it works perfect just like the original way. Every thing is back to normal .
Hi.. How to do that.. Pls help
Glad you got it worked out. These circuits often take some trial and error to figure out.
Nice video, but if I had to do this, I don't think I would replace the switch with a 30 year old switch even if it tested out good; I would install a new one and probably replace all the door switches...but that is just me. Maybe you enjoy taking it apart again when the old switch fails? :-)
There is a bit of excitement when something breaks and I know I can fix it! But maybe the 30 year old switch has "proven itself to be reliable", LOL!
I think it was mentioned that you might not need to remove the large plastic switches holder for replacing switches. Do you feel that it’s feasible to do this for just replacing the top switch? Thank you for the video!
I think it's probably workable to do so, yes. In an earlier repair, I didn't take it out. For this video, I wanted to provide a clear view of what it looked like, so took the whole thing out.
Indont use switches. Injust twist 3 door wires together, and press start
If I suggested that, I'm sure a bunch of people would object, as that bypasses the safety interlock. But many people take bigger risks every day, so I'll leave that decision to the viewer.
Thanks for this very helpful video. Unfortunately I have another issue. As soon s you plug in power supply, the exhaust fan turns on & stays on. only two option are their. Either high speed or medium speed, No off option. Do you have any idea to solve this issue?
I'll reply on the other comment, since it's good news :)
I ordered the factory component with the cradle and switches and the fan is still running.
Strange. I wonder if there's a connector that's loose. Do you have a multi-meter to validate the switches are opening/closing when clicked? Actually, the most likely thing (as a guess) might be that the actuator bit (metal thing that pushes the switch in) is bent or not placed properly, so when the door is closed, it's not pressing hard enough on the switch. I hope you get it worked out!
I have a Haier model with same problem . Can anyone help it to resolve because it has a different board.
If you can get the switches disconnected and you have a multi-meter, you can check that the continuity changes when the switch is pressed. If it doesn't change continuity (open to closed -or- closed to open), that's your failing component.
Why is my microwave display board not working
Display problems. I've got the same issue on my stove, but I'm able to smack the stove, and the display comes back on, lol! Can't give you any assistance with your display issue, though.
My microwave is an LG, and the switch assembly is the same
Good information. Thanks for sharing.
So my microwave is pretty old, and it's doing this. What will happen if I don't fix it? I will be saving up for a new microwave, and saving for installation etc. This will take a few months. But, in the meantime can I still use this microwave in this condition for the next few months?
Here's what I did (to make sure I wasn't being cooked). I put a container of water in the microwave oven and set it to 50% power. Then I heated the water, listening for the magnetron to turn on and off. I got used to what it sounded like when the cooking was going on; there's a lower "hum". Then I opened the door and made sure that what I heard did not include the lower "hum" of the magnetron (just the fan). You probably can use the microwave safely, as there are several door switches, and they are redundant, but there are also probably people that will excitedly say I'm nuts for saying that. The Internet is a wonderful place!
My microwave is turned on when the door is OPENED. When you CLOSE the DOOR it will blow the fuse and trip the BREAKER.
That sounds like something wrong in the high voltage system...not the subject of this video.
What causes a microwave to hum when you close the door and stop when the door is opened
That sounds like a door limit switch problem too.
Thanks but that is the first thing I check. Seems ok?
I have this very problem... but not likely to do what you are doing. I think I going to just buy a new one.
Getting a new one is a great alternative if you just "call the man". If you're going to buy one and install it yourself, those units are HEAVY!! You'll certainly need two capable people if you're going to replace by yourself. And mounting it so it aligns nicely is a little tricky (I've installed several DIY).
What is the name of the switch or part?
27817C is the part number on one of them. I'm not sure if they are all the same. You might need a "normally open" or a "normally closed"
I'll just get another micro.
That's certainly an option. It might be irrational for me to spend hours fixing something instead of buying a new one, but putting an otherwise "perfectly good" microwave into the landfill just rubs me the wrong way.
@@sengsational I've given away things.