Big fan of the Takamura brothers & their work. I enjoyed their 170mm yo handled, pakkawood santoku. For me Chromax seems like one of the better choices of steel on a budget knife, I like it much better than a Play-Doh soft stainless. I rather enjoyed sharpening it, I liked it's sharpening attributes.... Also I 100% agree with you on the edge angle, it doesn't hold up until you get to that 30° inclusive mark. The edge that came on it was too shallow to hold up to my normal kitchen use.... I didn't "see" it chipping, but the edge got very choppy until I put a steeper 30° eyeballed edge on it, the edge could have been 28-34°. After that it was a trooper... A great knife for 80 USD My progression was: Chosera 600 Chosera 1k Chosera 3k Chosera 5k Gunny juice 3 micron on balsa Gunny juice 1 micron on leather Gunny juice 0.5 micron on leather Unrelated Edit : the Takamura brothers SG2 /R2 steel line is great, I feel it's the best deal going for SG2/R2, when you consider price to performance.
I find that staying with stone brands in series cause of less confusion as far as grit progression vs trying to figure out actual real world grit and then mixing Stone brands.
I generally don’t get too wrapped around the axel with the actual grit rating. Focus more on what the stone excels at with what steel/knife and what I’m trying to accomplish I do think the discussion can be very helpful for newer sharpeners getting into the game for sure
@@EngineersPerspective701 I much prefer you approximating the "actual" or "perceived" grit rating, I find that the MOST informative and I 100% stuck with you because you called the Chosera 3k a 4k feeler (it is, and I'm also on the shapton 1k pro is 800 grit feeling.) Knives and Stones did a microscopic view the edge for a few, and I was super happy that my "feelings" were confirmed, ua-cam.com/video/7phkBKET0xI/v-deo.html (5:30 for picture) Thank you for the killer content, just found your channel.
Shapton 5k is a true 5k I would argue. The 1k is more like a 800 and the 2k is more like a 3k. I usually just use my 2k exclusively as a standalone stone. It has a nice bite for tomatoes and things like that.
Aye bro can ya do a video on your pro sharpening position? I've been curious as to how you hold and find the andle for your Sharpenign method vs regular tip to heel swipes
It’s a cow leather strop made by Portland knife house. Triple B handmade used to carry them but I don’t think you can get them anymore. Maybe you can call the actual Portland Knife House store and they’ll ship them? I actually use the smooth side. Generally prefer it for loaded strops. I will use the nap side for plain strops without any compound
Thanks for posting this video. It is interesting to see how your sharpening technique has evolved over time.
Definitely a lot of details have changed. I've really focused on finishing techniques in the last 1-1.5yrs
Big fan of the Takamura brothers & their work. I enjoyed their 170mm yo handled, pakkawood santoku. For me Chromax seems like one of the better choices of steel on a budget knife, I like it much better than a Play-Doh soft stainless. I rather enjoyed sharpening it, I liked it's sharpening attributes.... Also I 100% agree with you on the edge angle, it doesn't hold up until you get to that 30° inclusive mark. The edge that came on it was too shallow to hold up to my normal kitchen use.... I didn't "see" it chipping, but the edge got very choppy until I put a steeper 30° eyeballed edge on it, the edge could have been 28-34°. After that it was a trooper... A great knife for 80 USD
My progression was:
Chosera 600
Chosera 1k
Chosera 3k
Chosera 5k
Gunny juice 3 micron on balsa
Gunny juice 1 micron on leather
Gunny juice 0.5 micron on leather
Unrelated Edit : the Takamura brothers SG2 /R2 steel line is great, I feel it's the best deal going for SG2/R2, when you consider price to performance.
I really want one of their budget Migaki R2 Gyutos and 150mm petty. They are just hard to find!
I find that staying with stone brands in series cause of less confusion as far as grit progression vs trying to figure out actual real world grit and then mixing Stone brands.
I generally don’t get too wrapped around the axel with the actual grit rating. Focus more on what the stone excels at with what steel/knife and what I’m trying to accomplish
I do think the discussion can be very helpful for newer sharpeners getting into the game for sure
@@EngineersPerspective701 I much prefer you approximating the "actual" or "perceived" grit rating, I find that the MOST informative and I 100% stuck with you because you called the Chosera 3k a 4k feeler (it is, and I'm also on the shapton 1k pro is 800 grit feeling.)
Knives and Stones did a microscopic view the edge for a few, and I was super happy that my "feelings" were confirmed, ua-cam.com/video/7phkBKET0xI/v-deo.html (5:30 for picture)
Thank you for the killer content, just found your channel.
Shapton 5k is a true 5k I would argue. The 1k is more like a 800 and the 2k is more like a 3k. I usually just use my 2k exclusively as a standalone stone. It has a nice bite for tomatoes and things like that.
How does the 2K deburr? I’ve been really interested that one specifically.
@@EngineersPerspective701 The burr isn‘t 100 procent gone, but very close to it. Newsletter stropping removes it completely
Having a toothy edge would probably last longer as well.
Aye bro can ya do a video on your pro sharpening position? I've been curious as to how you hold and find the andle for your Sharpenign method vs regular tip to heel swipes
What do you use for a strop ..? I see it looks like leather ...
and the more "suede" side (if you know what I mean) at that
It’s a cow leather strop made by Portland knife house. Triple B handmade used to carry them but I don’t think you can get them anymore. Maybe you can call the actual Portland Knife House store and they’ll ship them?
I actually use the smooth side. Generally prefer it for loaded strops. I will use the nap side for plain strops without any compound