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- Опубліковано 28 лис 2024
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Convoy S2 UV Torch: bit.ly/2ljUcpL
Lightfe UV301 Torch: bit.ly/2lXyGHC
Mechanic Liquid Mask: bit.ly/2lOJLei
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Mechanic Flux Paste: MCN-UV80: bit.ly/2XyaqwM
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Swift SS41-WF20 Binocular Microscope US: amzn.to/2VLWEpb
Swift SS41-WF20 Binocular Microscope UK: amzn.to/2GYGYFV
Visit my website: www.sdgelectro... #ElectronicsCreators
The problem is if you apply a thicker blob the light can't pass inside. Ladies nails UV glue has transparent mask, it's probably better. You can get on a Chinese store locally.
For the benefit of those looking at how to use solder mask, let me share a tip that I've picked up from another channel. Hot air + uv light cures the mask in a matter of seconds.
hot air ? what channel?
Quite a lot of Quites 😁 interesting nonetheless 👍
The black or amber syringes are used for UV sensitive materials. The black syringes are completely UV blocking. The amber syringes are only partially UV absorbing, but it it's not a problem as long as you don't store the tube at direct sunlight. Both types are available at ebay, aliexpress and other chinese eshops.
That goop is so opaque it doesn't really need uv protection. It is also really insensitive, compared to uv curable glue, that cures instantly under such an irradiation (and heats to the point of releasing a bit of smoke/vapour in the process).
Thick uv glue always cures slowly beneath. If the top layer is uv absorbing, not much uv gets to the lower layers.
I have a convoy S2 as well. With visible light filter is a great general purpose uv touch. Visible light is not a problem for curing resins but in some cases it is. UV only pass filters are not that expensive, I have them on my uv flashlights that were not originally fitted with one.
I use the Convoy S2+ for UV mask and checking for counterfeit currency. If you use a hotair station at say about 350C and UV light, the solder mask will cure very fast in just a few seconds.
there might be more around UV curing, some resins have their curing triggered by the UV, but the curing would carry on without UV, others, it's the UV itself that does the curing, so you need to go full depth.
Thanks Steve...on Amazon here you can get a combo package of three color mask and a small UV torch as well for about $26 USD. For us hobbyists that would last a lifetime of repairing/attaching bodge wires. Probably simply cover the tubes to keep the stuff viable for the long term. I didn't look at the specs but is 365nm preferred over 395nm or is it six of one, half dozen of the other?
The 365nm is a better wavelength for curing a lot of UV adhesives (i.e. takes less time), but on these liquids there was no specification.
Saw a guy use a tiny paint roller - maybe 10mm x 20mm lg - to apply it evenly.
That's an interesting idea, I'm pretty sure my wife has something I can use :-D
it will leave texture. look for "screen printing squeegee" on Ali
@@Mr.Leeroy I couldn't find the vid but the UV paint is low volume solids, ie, lots of binder, so it kind-of self levels.
I couldn't find small disposable rollers so I ordered some rotary tool cloth/felt polishing wheels. I will have to try them when they get here.
@@Mr.Leeroy You were right, it was a big fail. Some sort of squeegee/scraper is probably better.
ua-cam.com/video/v8xRtQ1P0Nc/v-deo.html
Your UV torches curing results are weird. I bought two "51 LED UV Torch 395nm Ultraviolet Flashlight Blacklight Pet Urine Stain Detector" (eBay) and even the thick blob gets cured in just couple of minutes. Solder mask I'm using is LY-UVH900.
For best results use hot air combined with UV. Specially for the big blobs.
You really want to keep this stuff as thin layered as possible. If neccessary, do multiple layers; thin layers cure rapidly. What happens is that when it cures, it becomes kind of opaque; *Far* less translucent. As the "surface" of the applied amount obviously has far more exposure to the UV light, the surface cures "first". At that point, the material still liquid underneath, never cures at all if the layer is too thick.
Now, that is interesting. I have the same solder mask, but it did not even try to solidify under 365nm, but 395nm worked quite fast. Maybe, my 365nm torch is just too weak. I will have to try it again with a thinner layer. (Insulating tape thickness is too thick )
Thanks, I really like your quality videos. I like the thought that goes into your demonstrations.
I have a question, I have a scratched pcb board that, luckly, it didn´t affect any of the traces, it´s more of a stetical problem I wanted to fix because is in a place where there´s text and it´s easely visible . Is this method good enogh for fixing that type of scratches? or what sort of paint/coat should I use instead?
This is really what this product is designed for. You need to apply it extremely thin, much thinner than I did.
@@sdgelectronics Yes, I was thinking using a small size brush or something like that to be extra careful. Thank you so much :)
What about using a etching resist pen for a small mask fixes?
If you are not in a hurry just leave it to dry in the sun. I do use UV light and heat gun too at times
what wavelength uv light is this or what does the solder mask need ?
But how well those can handle solvents like isopropyl alcohol, rubbing alcohol or Asento for example
I'm starting to love this channel :D
Thanks Steve! I have been just using the regular kind.
Interesting. But I don't see the usage, solder mask were used to save solder when thru holes boards were floated on a liquid solder bath. Today we use SMC and solder stencil, the board need to be flat to apply the stencil correctly but doesn't need any solder mask
The solder mask is often used for insulative purposes - either from external influences or to increase the dielectric strength.
@@sdgelectronics A conformal coating applied after components welding would achieved the same goals and preserver the board from corrosion and water damage.
If it's the same as 3D printing resin you probably need a lot less than 3 minutes. Maybe 30 seconds tops.
Would be interested in seeing more about the different wave lengths & plus's & minus's ?
Quite expensive the 365nm Torches , the ones I have(365nm & 395nm) was each 5usd Shipped....
You can definitely get 365nm torches cheaper, these are pretty high output though.
www.aliexpress.com/item/32616913780.html zoom-able with a Cree Led (this one I have) the Light is like the second one you showed with the whiter light that becomes purple when you aim to something but with a AA Battery, the first the light is to Purple 395nm ?
@@KonstantinGrigoriadis They dont really spec the power and you can get total garbage too. It's always fun to guess if you get anything useful or not, no matter what you pay for :)
@@benbaselet2026 Probably bcs all these Items come from the same sources..... but at least with a few USD is the gamble of what you will get ok, I can only say the on I have works for curring SolderMask & Glue and used probably the same type Cree led.
@@KonstantinGrigoriadis Yeah so many of them have that Cree there as a buzzword... I would not trust it at all, but really what's the difference if you lose a few % efficiency if it's a reasonable cheap clone anyways.
Great videos, thanks.
I picked up a UV laser to speed up the curing process, works in less than 30 seconds.
sounds good idea I built a strong uv source I smashed and removed the outer glass envelope from a metal halide lamp then built the arc tube, ballast etc into a box with a timer and safety interlock switch,.... works well just takes a few mins to warm up and you have really strong uv
Have you had any problems from the siglent since you pull the caps out or is it behaving the same as before but now with 340Mhz BW.. thats really simple but amazing mod if there's no side effects
Could you maybe do some tests on UV cure glue ?, i wonder if when glue is applied in larger "blobs" it does set all the way through ?, if so then this may be a better option for tacking on wires for track repair and modifications etc, Dave @ BasicMicroUK
Just waiting for the glues to arrive ;)
@@sdgelectronics Fantastic and thanks, keep up the very interesting videos....
That depends on how the glue cures. If it cures clear, it should cure all the way through. If it becomes very opaque when it cures, like these solder masks, then no. The outer cured layer blocks/deflects/absorbs the light, prohibiting it to reach the uncured mass underneath
This is the good and bad with UV-cure. You can take your time, and not have to worry about uncontrollable cure times if you make a mistake and need to clean it off. But, you're kinda at the mercy of the translucency properties of the curing/cured mask/glue/etc, for how thick you can go.
So it's higly advicable to experiment a bit with the one you buy, and the UV light, to get to know its properties, limitations and how it cleans off, before applying it to anything of importance.
I see uv 365nm torch prices are considerably lower on ebay and aliexpress. They look the same, anyone tried the 2 to 5 pound torches?
Also , if others are going to comment on better light sources - links ?
I like Defpom's idea of using a UV laser pointer. Would work well for small areas.
Just heat the solder mask as you are curing it, stuff will be hard as a rock in 3 seconds.
Thanks
Useful stuff to know about. thanks
Thank you.
Dobra robota. Pozdrawiam ;_)
I find this episode a a bit of a shill! I go down to my local Kruidvat (belgium) and buy Essence Shine clear, nail polish, made in Luxembourger 1.50 Euro a pop for my conformal coating and board repairs!
The audio/video goes a bit wonky at 10 minutes. Good video though
heating tests woulb be useful
Ultra violate (electroboom) lol
Same resin is used by 3d printers.
Hate that smell.
You can get UV lamps much cheaper, usually used by women for their nails glue (or something). You might want to cut down on Banggood stuff a bit, sounds like you are shilling for them.
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