I love the inclusion of Anna's breathing for her flash, really communicates the difficulty and intensity of the climb, making for a great watch. Also, as a brit, can't help but disagree about the fist bumping thing, I did it just the other day in the gym after working on a boulder with someone else who was attempting the same thing.
Thank you! Just came to the comments because I was as shocked as Anna to hear you don't fist bump. How could fist bumping not be a part of British climbing culture?!
Love all the lingo that climbing involves....could as well be: "We are going to set a plank which involves at least two hovers and we are going to be smudging and flat-elbowing throughout the first sections. Then we will do a salsa turn into a hammock that requires no-hand hooves. And finally we will belly up on a rivetted match onto a sphynx lunge."
I like fistbumps personally, but so long as they're not after every climb.. When they're reserved for a cool move or a really good effort etc then they can mean more than words of encouragement or anything along those lines I think..
That explanation of the moves before the send session was gold. An Anna slab special with what she's concentrating on and feeling in her body for a variety of moves would be great.
One of my fav vids so far and with the slabinista herself! Saving to climbing playlist for future ref. Such great slab tips and analysis of slab skills and subtypes! I can kinda edge, but pure friction climbing and mantles kill me! Worlds longest overhang next?
I think fistbumps are a great way to give support! Wether you send or you just made a cool move, I see that a fistbump pierce hearts much more than most words. Maybe because it shows more a shared emotion? More connection? I don't know! I never noticed British people never used them!
What a great video, it’s informative (move tips and descriptions), entertaining (great cuts during the setting, funny comments) and dramatic / suspenseful (the final climbs). Nice work!
This is such a killer video, killer set, and killer climbing session. You guys got some crazy slab skill. Especially Anna.... Oh yeah also, Anna! 🙏 Please let me buy you some shoes 😆 it's amazing how well you did with those shoes. You guys killed it! 🤘👏👏
Best video I've seen with Anna, could really tell how much fun she was having here! Edit: 13:55 it's ok Tom... seeing that I also realise I desperately need to stretch more
That rock over move and reach up is basically a mirror image of the start to a crimpy outdoor climb in Cooper's Rock West Virginia that was the first outdoor 5.9 I sent! Love these fun videos just playing on the wall.
Thank you for the teaching segment, you guys both did such a good job explaining everything that I totally could understand it all and I'm definitely pretty new to climbing, excellent teaching 👍
WOW that looks so so fun I wish I could try climbing it! Especially starting at the yellow part-- comp dynos are cool and fun, but the movement throughout the rest of the boulder looks SO satisfying!!
I remember Johnny Dawes set a slab no hander traverse at the old Arch in London maybe 7 years ago, must've been about 20 meters long!! Although no one could ever make it all the way across because of other people climbing lol
Thundercling? Is that a common term? In our climbing circles we say "thumbercling" since well it's an undercling you grab (press) with your thumb. I guess thumbercut for the Brits. And yes, we'd all die to have Anna's mo/flexi-bility. That just made me think that it'd be really cool if you did a collab vid of Anna doing the Lattice assessment. Any chance? And to be fair, even in the US I'd say that fist-bumping only overtook "high fiving" in the last couple of decades. With the onset of covid it even overtook the traditional handshake in greeting friends (in my experience.)
Such a cool video! The downclimb move is really beautiful :D Loved learning some new climbing lingo (didn't know thundercling was a thing, I don't think there's any equivalent in French ^^)
Id personally say thats a high v5 early , later into a v9-v10 . Really sad cause i just recently injured myself doing something similar at The Boardroom Climbing Centre
I've done probably a 100 meter traverse indoors, does that count? One of our local gyms started setting+grading traverses around the rope area as routes.
He is a great climber but her mobility and flexibility is so better than him, he could be even better with more flexibility, mainly on his hips, you can see it on the move at 25:00, he need so much more hands power compare to her on that move just because of that (plus his extra weight). this is the beauty of this sport, many people think it needs muscles, it needs much more than that and this is why so much women are so great. By the way, this man is a real champion in crack climbing, a so different style.
I just had a rewatch of Magnus in the cellar and could not believe my eyes: Tom fistbumping Pete! => ua-cam.com/video/-6X2vJpCnAg/v-deo.html Poor Anna's world crumbled in that moment 😂
@LatticeTraining help. I'm starting to love slabs, but I can't figure out how to pick a damn shoe for them. Are your toes just screaming at you the whole time when you're on an edgy foothold you have to put your whole weight on and rotate around? Do I just need to accept this?
Good question/topic. In general you want a less tight fitting shoe which is less downturned/aggressive, but soft and stiff shoes both have a place. I'd say many prefer a softer shoe for indoors and stiffer for outdoors. Maybe we'll be able to put together a video in the future.
So... I've been thinking about the physics of dropping your heels on slab. Conventional wisdom says that this increases the surface area of friction and puts more rubber on the wall, but friction equations don't account for surface area, just normal force. Does surface area matter here? Is this why racecars have big tires and big contact patches? Or does dropping your heel just move your center of gravity back and change how force is applied? Basically... why does dropping your heel help on slab? Can anyone with a background in physics (or that understands the force diagrams here) chime in?
I think the answer has to do with the integrity of the shoe rubber. It’s more likely to break down when all of your force is focused on a small point. When the rubber breaks apart it rolls into little bits and that’s what causes you to slide off. Once you start “rolling” off your friction coefficient is greatly reduced.
@@CJski Interesting point! Basic physics tends to assume that materials are constants, so there's probably some truth to this! Still trying to wrap my head around a force vector diagram though. It's been so long since I've done any physics...
If you think about a hold or wall on a microscopic level, it has a million jagged peaks sticking out from the surface. No material is perfectly smooth. When the rubber gets pressed onto a hold, because it is pliable it molds to imperfections on the surface. So now you have interlocking peaks of rubber and whatever surface you're climbing on, like tiny little claws. The normal force diagrams would have to be applied to all of the imperfections. Therefore the more surface area you have contacting the wall, the more interlocking "claws" you have and the stickier you are.
@@thesii213 the force diagram is not too helpful here other than showing what you already suspect. The forces aren’t changing whether you have more or less surface area. It’s not like your weight or the angle of the wall is changing. The microscopic surface roughness is already considered in the friction coefficient of rubber on rock (or whatever the material is) and this doesn’t change either unless the material breaks down and crumbles.
the "surface are doesnt matter" is just a simplification. it is much more complexe than just normal force. But most of the time its accurate enough to use the simple formula AND it would be way to complicated to measure all parameters needed for every surface pair.
I love the inclusion of Anna's breathing for her flash, really communicates the difficulty and intensity of the climb, making for a great watch. Also, as a brit, can't help but disagree about the fist bumping thing, I did it just the other day in the gym after working on a boulder with someone else who was attempting the same thing.
breathing heavy like that is a way to get more muscular energy for a longer period, it is a technic many climbers forget to use well.
Thank you! Just came to the comments because I was as shocked as Anna to hear you don't fist bump. How could fist bumping not be a part of British climbing culture?!
What.... you're a Brit and fist bump?! 🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯
@@pascaljutras178 I didn't know that, interesting
@@danmoore1678 It is, at least at all the gyms I've been to. Toms just from a bit of a wanky trad tradition, I reckon.
"This is exciting! Do you like slabs? - ... No" 🤣🤣🤣
The description of the climb feels like waiters at a fancy restaurant describing a three course menu.
And it sounds delicious :)
Round 15:30 ^^
edit: especially Anna omg
Love all the lingo that climbing involves....could as well be:
"We are going to set a plank which involves at least two hovers and we are going to be smudging and flat-elbowing throughout the first sections. Then we will do a salsa turn into a hammock that requires no-hand hooves. And finally we will belly up on a rivetted match onto a sphynx lunge."
That was magnificent @Abel Abel
🤣🤣🤣🤌
You truly have a way with words abel
@@907Rome You are too kind
This is a what a top-tier youtube comment looks like.
I like fistbumps personally, but so long as they're not after every climb.. When they're reserved for a cool move or a really good effort etc then they can mean more than words of encouragement or anything along those lines I think..
That explanation of the moves before the send session was gold. An Anna slab special with what she's concentrating on and feeling in her body for a variety of moves would be great.
Anna's like a walking ray of badass sunshine. 🌞
One of my fav vids so far and with the slabinista herself! Saving to climbing playlist for future ref. Such great slab tips and analysis of slab skills and subtypes! I can kinda edge, but pure friction climbing and mantles kill me! Worlds longest overhang next?
A whole empty room dedicated to finding the most difficult way to get around a room. I begin to think we climbers are nerds of some sort.
I think fistbumps are a great way to give support! Wether you send or you just made a cool move, I see that a fistbump pierce hearts much more than most words. Maybe because it shows more a shared emotion? More connection? I don't know! I never noticed British people never used them!
I agree. Plus, when my hands already hurt from climbing I'm not super keen on a high five.
love the fistbumps
I think everyone does them here in germany
Would love to see more of Anna, hope to see a full assessment!
Insane creative chemistry! I don't climb but I'm absolutely hooked! Great stuff.
Pete's OK too 😁
What a great video, it’s informative (move tips and descriptions), entertaining (great cuts during the setting, funny comments) and dramatic / suspenseful (the final climbs). Nice work!
This is such a killer video, killer set, and killer climbing session. You guys got some crazy slab skill. Especially Anna.... Oh yeah also, Anna! 🙏 Please let me buy you some shoes 😆 it's amazing how well you did with those shoes. You guys killed it! 🤘👏👏
Incredible flash by Ana, it was so intense to watch! Incredible with the audio
Best video I've seen with Anna, could really tell how much fun she was having here!
Edit: 13:55 it's ok Tom... seeing that I also realise I desperately need to stretch more
0:15 'First person to successfully tick it, buys dinner for the rest of the week'..
Worst prize, EVER.
I don't think they realised Anna has to buy the food. Good twist Tom.
That rock over move and reach up is basically a mirror image of the start to a crimpy outdoor climb in Cooper's Rock West Virginia that was the first outdoor 5.9 I sent! Love these fun videos just playing on the wall.
Thank you for the teaching segment, you guys both did such a good job explaining everything that I totally could understand it all and I'm definitely pretty new to climbing, excellent teaching 👍
What a route, slabtastic! I was worried for Tom ('s wallet) as soon as Anna started testing those moves, awesome body positioning and flexibility 👏👊
damn Anna really is the queen of slab climbing. She absolutely destroyed that climb! Amazing technique and power. Awesome video
I about choked when Anna started talking in the third person!
Really liked the editing of the video during the whole assembly process.
Good to see you on the show Anna
From the Uk but, relatively new climber, almost 6 years now. Everyone at my gym fist bumps. Everyone I've ever met at any gym or outside fist bumps.
Yeah, fist bumps are incredibly common in UK gyms. Toms talking nonsense.
@@georgestone8099 hey George, it's Dan from BB. Small world.
What an absolute banger of a slab! Really enjoyed this one. Great tips in there as well.
We need more Anna!
WOW that looks so so fun I wish I could try climbing it!
Especially starting at the yellow part-- comp dynos are cool and fun, but the movement throughout the rest of the boulder looks SO satisfying!!
Awesome vid! Really enjoyed that
good work, nice set and training!!
I remember Johnny Dawes set a slab no hander traverse at the old Arch in London maybe 7 years ago, must've been about 20 meters long!! Although no one could ever make it all the way across because of other people climbing lol
Tom is having a really good hair phase
Seriously amazing. More please
I love the little bit of editing around 4:00 where she says "do you like slab" and the answer is just "no"
Thank you, Anna! You inspired me to stretch more!
Awesome video!! Really cool moves! Slab climbing is definitely my favorite
Thundercling? Is that a common term? In our climbing circles we say "thumbercling" since well it's an undercling you grab (press) with your thumb. I guess thumbercut for the Brits. And yes, we'd all die to have Anna's mo/flexi-bility. That just made me think that it'd be really cool if you did a collab vid of Anna doing the Lattice assessment. Any chance? And to be fair, even in the US I'd say that fist-bumping only overtook "high fiving" in the last couple of decades. With the onset of covid it even overtook the traditional handshake in greeting friends (in my experience.)
What a fun video and such a fantastic problem!
Love videos like these! So fun!
Anna's shoes: Tell me you're a slab climber without telling me you're a slab climber.
I really enjoyed this one!
UK climber and the only reason I send is for the fist bumps. Awesome video!
That fist bumping thing is really quite funny
Tom's frustrations coming out 🤣
Also not true though.
Awesome vid! Learned some sweet tips and that Brits don't fist bump.
LIKE A SACK OF POTATOEEESSS🙆♂️ ahahahh
Anna is a beast!
Wow Anna's send was cool
Such a cool video! The downclimb move is really beautiful :D Loved learning some new climbing lingo (didn't know thundercling was a thing, I don't think there's any equivalent in French ^^)
*thumbdercling*. I've never heard that before. I think they just made it up.
12:33 tom: "I've got you, I've got you" Anna:*plop* Tom: *evillaughter* . So much fun, despite missing a nice crack or two ;)!
How does anyone in Britain get sends without fist bumps to power up and to reward?
Great slab work, something I hate doing. I now live in NZ where fist bumps are a common thing, but they do have a lot of American stuff over here.
Slabs are underrated! They make it look look so easy…. until you try it.
Id personally say thats a high v5 early , later into a v9-v10 .
Really sad cause i just recently injured myself doing something similar at
The Boardroom Climbing Centre
I've done probably a 100 meter traverse indoors, does that count? One of our local gyms started setting+grading traverses around the rope area as routes.
her technical ability and flexibility is crazy, i wonder what would happen if she trained for overhangs too
Never heard it being called a piano match, love it!
1:17 my favorite kind of... climbing
I have no idea how she didn't fall off when she brought her knee around at 13:38. This looks like it was a fun time, nice problem.
is this considered a Slabisode?
Anna Hazelnut is still the best name ever!
Catalan here. We do fist bump too, and I have also seen it done in Chinese climbing gyms
(excited voice) - Do you like slab?? - No.
He is a great climber but her mobility and flexibility is so better than him, he could be even better with more flexibility, mainly on his hips, you can see it on the move at 25:00, he need so much more hands power compare to her on that move just because of that (plus his extra weight). this is the beauty of this sport, many people think it needs muscles, it needs much more than that and this is why so much women are so great. By the way, this man is a real champion in crack climbing, a so different style.
Hey, we don't need your condescending fist bumps, brits!
But Anna, holy crap! That was an insane flash!
that looks intense and super fun I wish I could climb it ;_;
2:20 come on tom ^^
I’m in love
what a fantastic slab
I just had a rewatch of Magnus in the cellar and could not believe my eyes: Tom fistbumping Pete! => ua-cam.com/video/-6X2vJpCnAg/v-deo.html
Poor Anna's world crumbled in that moment 😂
"The first person who successfully ticks it, buys dinner for the rest of the week" - So dinner's on Anna then ;)
"first person to successfully tick it, buys dinner for the rest of the week!" so that means anna buys dinner !?
@LatticeTraining help. I'm starting to love slabs, but I can't figure out how to pick a damn shoe for them. Are your toes just screaming at you the whole time when you're on an edgy foothold you have to put your whole weight on and rotate around? Do I just need to accept this?
Good question/topic. In general you want a less tight fitting shoe which is less downturned/aggressive, but soft and stiff shoes both have a place. I'd say many prefer a softer shoe for indoors and stiffer for outdoors. Maybe we'll be able to put together a video in the future.
I can’t believe Tom wouldn’t shake Anna’s hand to confirm the wager. The disrespect
6 weeks of Fish & Chips Yippie 😁
So I'm sometimes mentally more american than british..
Greetings from Poland.
🤜 🤜
People also don't hug to say hi in Europe, mostly :D
I think I gave a birth during all that breathing 😁
if floor is lava is a sport
Do you high five instead or just say "brilliant" and call it a day? Had no idea that fist bumping was an americanism
They just say "Bloody hell, that was brilliant, chap." And then share beans on toast or vinegar jelly.
Usually in their videos, they just give each other the "good effort mate".
Everyone fist bumps at my UK gym..
Tom is even more static than Anna haha
I started sweating watching that😮
LOL… “Slab Rabbit”
Anna slabs Magnus when
Anna is so fucking cool
this is a 5.11c
how could someone be as charming as Anna I don't get it
That can't be right about fist bumping. I see the Bobats do it and the Storror people do too.
So... I've been thinking about the physics of dropping your heels on slab. Conventional wisdom says that this increases the surface area of friction and puts more rubber on the wall, but friction equations don't account for surface area, just normal force. Does surface area matter here? Is this why racecars have big tires and big contact patches? Or does dropping your heel just move your center of gravity back and change how force is applied? Basically... why does dropping your heel help on slab? Can anyone with a background in physics (or that understands the force diagrams here) chime in?
I think the answer has to do with the integrity of the shoe rubber. It’s more likely to break down when all of your force is focused on a small point. When the rubber breaks apart it rolls into little bits and that’s what causes you to slide off. Once you start “rolling” off your friction coefficient is greatly reduced.
@@CJski Interesting point! Basic physics tends to assume that materials are constants, so there's probably some truth to this! Still trying to wrap my head around a force vector diagram though. It's been so long since I've done any physics...
If you think about a hold or wall on a microscopic level, it has a million jagged peaks sticking out from the surface. No material is perfectly smooth. When the rubber gets pressed onto a hold, because it is pliable it molds to imperfections on the surface. So now you have interlocking peaks of rubber and whatever surface you're climbing on, like tiny little claws. The normal force diagrams would have to be applied to all of the imperfections. Therefore the more surface area you have contacting the wall, the more interlocking "claws" you have and the stickier you are.
@@thesii213 the force diagram is not too helpful here other than showing what you already suspect. The forces aren’t changing whether you have more or less surface area. It’s not like your weight or the angle of the wall is changing. The microscopic surface roughness is already considered in the friction coefficient of rubber on rock (or whatever the material is) and this doesn’t change either unless the material breaks down and crumbles.
the "surface are doesnt matter" is just a simplification. it is much more complexe than just normal force. But most of the time its accurate enough to use the simple formula AND it would be way to complicated to measure all parameters needed for every surface pair.
Anna please don't worry... british people fist bump... tom is just old...
Erster!