Nice test situation and realistic explanation of how these things work. They aren'r a miracle in a box, they're a tool that needs learning. My plan for this is to scan in the reference data to allow further modelling from those surfaces. For example that car wing, then in CAD build wider arches to fit onto that surface. Right now I'm using the suck-it-and see trial and error method which is fine for flat mating surfaces but a heck of a job when it comes to compound curves. The all in one unit is a great boon for us Mac users too, capture untethered and then process on desktop later.
I'm reviewing videos on how to do the modelling step now. I've got some future carbon fibre parts to build and I don't want to use the scan directly because of rust issues. I'm also a Mac user - so this really did work well for me.
Coincidentally, Superfastmatt just released a video about using a 3d scanner on car parts for the purpose of trying to do an at home alignment. He made the point that some scanners have a problem scanning holes, and this looks like it did a great job!
I used to do 3D sculpting with Alias. We used a lot of 3D scans of clay models. This video is a great resource for anyone looking to bring this tech into their garage. 3D scans won't give you that "production quality" surface, and there's ALWAYS some interpolation involved, but it's a great tool when you're set up right and know how to use it.
Exactly - I used to think it would be more magic than it is, then it opened up an entire world of mesh options and things in Fusion I didn't know existed.
Been (im)patiently waiting on your next installment. Great review. My suggestion to all considering this is to learn 3D cad systems first. Without knowledge on the "what's next" level. Scans end up only being fancy pictures. Thank you.
Good to see a more grounded review of one of these entry level scanners. As I was watching, what you said at the end was exactly what I was thinking. I've been doing 3D scanning for a number of years (high end equipment) and have been curious about these entry level scanners and what they can actually so. Your video is a nicely grounded review showing the learning curve, etc. Your suspension arm, I would suggest next time you have a similar project, so actually use the tracking markers on it. It would probably help considerably especially when you go around corners. Also another tip, when scanning larger objects (like your fender), start in the middle (using markers) and work your way in one direction, then return to the middle, and go the otherway. This will help keep accuracy better. (Your accuracy will only deviate for half the fender vs the entire fender) Overall, what what I saw with your scans, looks like you got great results. Some of the scans I've seen on other channels, you'd never see the threads in the scans, but it would actually just be a mess in those holes, so well done.
Man, love seeing this type of content. Will be great to see some of the things you can do w/the scanner. I saw Junkyard Dave's channel, he's been building his AWD Hellcat magnum wagon. He's probably used about 3 different scanners, and he had a similar experience. But his last video with a scanner seemed to work REALLY well compared to all of the other's he's tried. The title of the video was "Affordable 3D SCANNING Just Got 1000X BETTER - CREALITY CR-SCAN OTTER" if curious.
If I hadn’t bought and used Creality’s scanner myself, I’d probably believe you. But the fact is, I’ve used their scanners. I received my Otter 4 days ago and have been struggling a bit with the software. I’ve chatted with customer support each night, but haven’t gotten much help. Creality Scan feels like it’s behind. Cleaning up the mesh is brutal. Overall, the software feels sluggish; just rotating and using the lasso tool is really slow. In the end, I’ve given up on their scanner and requested a refund. I’ve been using the Revo Pop before, and after recently seeing a video, I’m now interested in their Miraco. Thanks!
@@MaxCohen-ic4cn Thanks for letting me know. I'm probably a year away from doing the typ eof work where I will get use out of a scanner. Hopefully by that time the tech will just keep getting cheaper and more user-friendly.
@@ThrottleStopGarage superfastmat also did a review of another scanner wasn’t an all in one like the one you reviewed but I think it’s hard to compare all of the scanners out there. It seems to me to be more about how much you trust the tester or reviewer.
Pro-tip: hang the scanner on a bungee cord so your arms don’t get tires and so the scan is more smooth. Bungee cords stretch, so you can still scan in straight lines if needed
@@ThrottleStopGarage Very! I do a decent amount of 3D printing and something like this could be VERY handy. I'm not sure I can quite swing $1K for my hobby but man o man do I want to! Appreciate being made aware of this, as 3D scanners go this is pretty damn affordable for the quality form what I've seen. /Me WANTS!
Smashing...Admire your persistence...great tool $2100 here in Australia. I had a 250Z, 20 or so years ago, never saw any part on it as nice as the SKF part. Thanks so much for posting this video. Oh, and by the way, the garage looks exceptionally tidy...well done😂
This reminds me of using my CR scan Lizard with a 10 year old laptop. I have a small desktop build with decent specs (ryzen 5, 32gb, 3060Ti) - I now bite the bullet and move that to the garage every time I need to scan because having that desktop power easily pays for the hassle when I lose tracking like 1/10 as much
Yeah a dolly or a jig might work well. Much easier to control the movements and to go back to a certain point. I have one of those articulating desk lamps, like the arms of an excavator, it has springs so that it will stay in the position that you put it. That might be something to mount that 3D scanner to it. If you do not have to hold the scanner with your hands you might get a much better result.
@@ThrottleStopGarage For larger body panel parts a moving dolly with a smaller movable arm would work well. For smaller parts those dial indicator holders or something similar might work well. And then you can spin the part that you want to scan on the spinning plateau at the exact distance that the scanner likes, put it on pause, set the scanner to the next height position, and repeat that until you have the complete part. The whole idea is that you can set the distance that the scanner prefers before you do the actual scanning. And that you can change position and go around curves consistently at the same height and distance at a much slower speed when the scanner is fixed to a dolly or jig of some sort, especially compared to holding the scanner with your hands.
I think the learning curve indicates that the technology is not quite ready for prime time. What I got from all this is that finding ways to simplify (smooth) the input data is very important because the live processing of that data gets to be a burden for the machine. So it either needs more memory or more processor power (or both) to handle all the extra data that comes from a typical hand scan. Of course after all your time spent we all can now just make sure we go slower and smoother in out scans. But all of that will seem quaint, like dial up, once the technology matures. I think I can wait. Cheers. Good demo.
I think that's a very fair assessment. I've used much more expensive scanners, and they are pretty robust. For home use, it's pretty handy once you get the hang of it.
Revopoint scanners hate flat and curved surfaces but there's a great hack for that in form of sticky tack or clay. Just stick some random blobs around your part and try to keep at least one blob in your frame at all times! Another tip is to scan your part in segments where you avoid too extreme changes in object's topology. For example scan the top and bottom separate, and then tip your object by about 45 degrees to get a linking scan. With these 3 you can try merging them all together in the desktop version of Revoscan. Scanning in one go is often challenging and this helps you avoid ripping your hair off 😂
are you leaving ti on auto exposure? i generally have better luck on manual exposure as when it adjusts it tends to have too much of a jump from one level to the other and loses it
@@ThrottleStopGarage Yea idk if yours was updated but the new version of the miraco software has helped that but I personally I prefer auto on all my scanners. Also airing on the side of a little further like bridge between excellent to good distance will make life easier on harder parts. Closer will get a little bit better detail but moving a little bit back sometimes makes all the difference to your sanity haha
I refreshed the firmware earlier this week - so it should be up to date. Getting the feel for how near/far was tricky. There are a lot of things to pay attention to when scanning. Oddly, I had better luck with it free hand and struggled with it on a tripod when scanning that bearing.
I've seen it - it's around $50 a can and I'm told it doesn't go very far. As I was learning, a spray that disappears would have been a waste as it took me days to work out each part! I may try this stuff in the future.
Scanning is one thing.. making use of the scans is another. Ask me how I know. I have a decent scan and data... now I need to spend 1000 hrs learning cad/modelling in overpriced software too? Im thinking about putting this thing up for sale after one scan 😅 I think im just tired of wasting money on inanimate project cars at this point tbh lol
Yeah with a normal CAD like fusion 360, it will take a lot of time reverse engineering it. But when you do a scan you either want to save money, can’t buy the part anymore or want to modify something. For the scanner I would recommend the CR Otter or Raptor (in 08/2024) if you want go more pro and need the details. I own the CR Raptor, Einstar, Einscan-SP, Revopoint mini v1.
This is an excellent and realistic review of what goes into using a 3D scanner to design parts in your garage....Thanks!
Thanks, much appreciated.
Nice test situation and realistic explanation of how these things work. They aren'r a miracle in a box, they're a tool that needs learning.
My plan for this is to scan in the reference data to allow further modelling from those surfaces. For example that car wing, then in CAD build wider arches to fit onto that surface.
Right now I'm using the suck-it-and see trial and error method which is fine for flat mating surfaces but a heck of a job when it comes to compound curves.
The all in one unit is a great boon for us Mac users too, capture untethered and then process on desktop later.
I'm reviewing videos on how to do the modelling step now. I've got some future carbon fibre parts to build and I don't want to use the scan directly because of rust issues. I'm also a Mac user - so this really did work well for me.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Sold.. :)
Coincidentally, Superfastmatt just released a video about using a 3d scanner on car parts for the purpose of trying to do an at home alignment. He made the point that some scanners have a problem scanning holes, and this looks like it did a great job!
Oh, I haven't seen that one yet. Thanks.
@@ThrottleStopGarage I think it literally came out the same day or maybe the day before yours did.
Hello. Hope you are well. Looking forward to updates.
I used to do 3D sculpting with Alias. We used a lot of 3D scans of clay models. This video is a great resource for anyone looking to bring this tech into their garage. 3D scans won't give you that "production quality" surface, and there's ALWAYS some interpolation involved, but it's a great tool when you're set up right and know how to use it.
Exactly - I used to think it would be more magic than it is, then it opened up an entire world of mesh options and things in Fusion I didn't know existed.
Been (im)patiently waiting on your next installment.
Great review.
My suggestion to all considering this is to learn 3D cad systems first.
Without knowledge on the "what's next" level. Scans end up only being fancy pictures.
Thank you.
Thanks - doing my best to get the work done that is required.
Thank you very much for showing the struggles as well as the techniques you found that worked. Very nicely done and extremely real.
Glad it was helpful!
Good to see a more grounded review of one of these entry level scanners. As I was watching, what you said at the end was exactly what I was thinking. I've been doing 3D scanning for a number of years (high end equipment) and have been curious about these entry level scanners and what they can actually so. Your video is a nicely grounded review showing the learning curve, etc. Your suspension arm, I would suggest next time you have a similar project, so actually use the tracking markers on it. It would probably help considerably especially when you go around corners. Also another tip, when scanning larger objects (like your fender), start in the middle (using markers) and work your way in one direction, then return to the middle, and go the otherway. This will help keep accuracy better. (Your accuracy will only deviate for half the fender vs the entire fender) Overall, what what I saw with your scans, looks like you got great results. Some of the scans I've seen on other channels, you'd never see the threads in the scans, but it would actually just be a mess in those holes, so well done.
Man, love seeing this type of content. Will be great to see some of the things you can do w/the scanner.
I saw Junkyard Dave's channel, he's been building his AWD Hellcat magnum wagon. He's probably used about 3 different scanners, and he had a similar experience.
But his last video with a scanner seemed to work REALLY well compared to all of the other's he's tried.
The title of the video was "Affordable 3D SCANNING Just Got 1000X BETTER - CREALITY CR-SCAN OTTER" if curious.
Cool. I'll have to have a look.
If I hadn’t bought and used Creality’s scanner myself, I’d probably believe you. But the fact is, I’ve used their scanners.
I received my Otter 4 days ago and have been struggling a bit with the software. I’ve chatted with customer support each night, but haven’t gotten much help.
Creality Scan feels like it’s behind. Cleaning up the mesh is brutal.
Overall, the software feels sluggish; just rotating and using the lasso tool is really slow.
In the end, I’ve given up on their scanner and requested a refund.
I’ve been using the Revo Pop before, and after recently seeing a video, I’m now interested in their Miraco. Thanks!
@@MaxCohen-ic4cn Thanks for letting me know. I'm probably a year away from doing the typ eof work where I will get use out of a scanner.
Hopefully by that time the tech will just keep getting cheaper and more user-friendly.
Thanks for the honest video. Now I have to buy a scanner 🤦♀️🤦♀️
You’re welcome 😊
@@ThrottleStopGarage superfastmat also did a review of another scanner wasn’t an all in one like the one you reviewed but I think it’s hard to compare all of the scanners out there.
It seems to me to be more about how much you trust the tester or reviewer.
Pro-tip: hang the scanner on a bungee cord so your arms don’t get tires and so the scan is more smooth. Bungee cords stretch, so you can still scan in straight lines if needed
That's a great idea - thanks.
Very nice! Thank you for the time and effort you put into this.
Thanks for watching. I hope it was helpful.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Very! I do a decent amount of 3D printing and something like this could be VERY handy. I'm not sure I can quite swing $1K for my hobby but man o man do I want to! Appreciate being made aware of this, as 3D scanners go this is pretty damn affordable for the quality form what I've seen. /Me WANTS!
@@BLKMGK4 Thanks - I have found it to be very valuable so far. The learning curve is pretty steep, but worth it.
Smashing...Admire your persistence...great tool $2100 here in Australia.
I had a 250Z, 20 or so years ago, never saw any part on it as nice as the SKF part.
Thanks so much for posting this video. Oh, and by the way, the garage looks exceptionally tidy...well done😂
Thanks Peter - I should put a coat of paint on those cabinet doors...or just bulldoze the entire garage and build a bigger one. LOL.
This reminds me of using my CR scan Lizard with a 10 year old laptop. I have a small desktop build with decent specs (ryzen 5, 32gb, 3060Ti) - I now bite the bullet and move that to the garage every time I need to scan because having that desktop power easily pays for the hassle when I lose tracking like 1/10 as much
It was nice to not have to haul around a laptop! I'm also on a Mac at home, so this was perfect.
It was impossible to use my lizard with my ancient Potato laptop, now with a half decent one it works great and its a very useful tool
Yeah a dolly or a jig might work well. Much easier to control the movements and to go back to a certain point. I have one of those articulating desk lamps, like the arms of an excavator, it has springs so that it will stay in the position that you put it. That might be something to mount that 3D scanner to it. If you do not have to hold the scanner with your hands you might get a much better result.
Like a big lamp arm would be nice.
@@ThrottleStopGarage For larger body panel parts a moving dolly with a smaller movable arm would work well. For smaller parts those dial indicator holders or something similar might work well. And then you can spin the part that you want to scan on the spinning plateau at the exact distance that the scanner likes, put it on pause, set the scanner to the next height position, and repeat that until you have the complete part.
The whole idea is that you can set the distance that the scanner prefers before you do the actual scanning. And that you can change position and go around curves consistently at the same height and distance at a much slower speed when the scanner is fixed to a dolly or jig of some sort, especially compared to holding the scanner with your hands.
I think the learning curve indicates that the technology is not quite ready for prime time. What I got from all this is that finding ways to simplify (smooth) the input data is very important because the live processing of that data gets to be a burden for the machine. So it either needs more memory or more processor power (or both) to handle all the extra data that comes from a typical hand scan. Of course after all your time spent we all can now just make sure we go slower and smoother in out scans. But all of that will seem quaint, like dial up, once the technology matures. I think I can wait. Cheers. Good demo.
I think that's a very fair assessment. I've used much more expensive scanners, and they are pretty robust. For home use, it's pretty handy once you get the hang of it.
Revopoint scanners hate flat and curved surfaces but there's a great hack for that in form of sticky tack or clay. Just stick some random blobs around your part and try to keep at least one blob in your frame at all times! Another tip is to scan your part in segments where you avoid too extreme changes in object's topology. For example scan the top and bottom separate, and then tip your object by about 45 degrees to get a linking scan. With these 3 you can try merging them all together in the desktop version of Revoscan. Scanning in one go is often challenging and this helps you avoid ripping your hair off 😂
Oh and try to place/sculpt the blobs in a way they're easy to remove later on :>
Thank you so much❤❤❤
You're welcome 😊
I just had an idea: if there's a 1/4-20 hole for a tripod, you should look into getting a gimbal. It should give you extremely smooth scans.
That's a great idea.
Are you gonna be the one on UA-cam to do Carbon fiber wheels? Nobody seems to have done it.
Good fun! I might of missed it but what did the scan measure the diameters of the hub vs calipers?
On the hub - it was so close that there was no point. They overlayed precisely.
Can you share the stl file for the hub or upright. I’m learning to reverse engineer parts in Solidworks
www.thingiverse.com/thing:6710342. Hope this helps.
@@ThrottleStopGarage thank you
@@ThrottleStopGarage are you ever going to sell the scanner? Or rent it out?
are you leaving ti on auto exposure? i generally have better luck on manual exposure as when it adjusts it tends to have too much of a jump from one level to the other and loses it
I was leaving it on auto - I'll have to try it in manual exposure mode.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Yea idk if yours was updated but the new version of the miraco software has helped that but I personally I prefer auto on all my scanners.
Also airing on the side of a little further like bridge between excellent to good distance will make life easier on harder parts. Closer will get a little bit better detail but moving a little bit back sometimes makes all the difference to your sanity haha
I refreshed the firmware earlier this week - so it should be up to date. Getting the feel for how near/far was tricky. There are a lot of things to pay attention to when scanning. Oddly, I had better luck with it free hand and struggled with it on a tripod when scanning that bearing.
@@ThrottleStopGarage can you merge models on it? It was in beta I'm not sure if it got pushed out yet
@@digital0785 You can - I've not tried it.
How well would it work scanning in and around an engine bay? With or with out an engine in place.
I've not done this yet, but I will have it in the next video as I need the frame/engine bay/engine scan for the suspension design.
You can buy a spray that will disappear afther a few hours so you don't need to clean an expensive or delicate part.
I've seen it - it's around $50 a can and I'm told it doesn't go very far. As I was learning, a spray that disappears would have been a waste as it took me days to work out each part! I may try this stuff in the future.
I didn't catch whether you had the pro or the basic version? I think the pro is just more onboard memory?
This is the Pro - it's got more memory and it came with the small turntable.
The pro also does far mode and comes with far mode accessories. The extra ram is for the bigger scans
Scanning is one thing.. making use of the scans is another. Ask me how I know. I have a decent scan and data... now I need to spend 1000 hrs learning cad/modelling in overpriced software too? Im thinking about putting this thing up for sale after one scan 😅 I think im just tired of wasting money on inanimate project cars at this point tbh lol
I've only started this adventure. I haven't tried to model with the data yet, but it's going to take time.
Yeah with a normal CAD like fusion 360, it will take a lot of time reverse engineering it.
But when you do a scan you either want to save money, can’t buy the part anymore or want to modify something.
For the scanner I would recommend the CR Otter or Raptor (in 08/2024) if you want go more pro and need the details. I own the CR Raptor, Einstar, Einscan-SP, Revopoint mini v1.
Turn the light off! Their videos pointed out that the light is only to capture correct colors
How to get it ?
Link and discount in the description!
"You can also use the lasso tool if you're into roping..."
* crickets *
"Western joke"
At least someone got it!
Hey ! rent that thing out to your fellow canucks LoL
I think someone needs to do this. If you have a few parts to make, it's worth buying one.
Hello!!! Is there anybody out there???
I disagree 2 minutes in. You need a 3D head of yourself for a hood ornament….😂