Basically around 600 crank horse power is insane on pump 93! Been saying these engines are heavily slept on with a simple tune no other car is giving you these result’s especially on pump gas.. more than enough if not too much power for the street anyways. Nice videos buddy
Thank you! I really appreciate it! I couldn’t agree with you more! These are very plug and play simple and reliable street cars at this level too, especially for the price!
Beautiful car! Why did you lock the door latch and turn on the hazzards when u flashed Mhd? I’ve flashed Mhd for 5 years on multiple cars and never did those 2 things . I buckle the seat belt and never open and close door during flash but never hazzards. Seems like it would add to battery drain. By the way did u connect the car to a battery charger?
So yes the car was attached to a battery charger. The hazards i believe is just a signal for the techs in the shop that the car is tuning, locking the door latch is just so you can open the door but the car thinks it’s latched so you can get out while the first flash takes 30 minutes if you want. Staying in the car and not getting out does the same thing. Flipping the latch just makes the car think the door is closed.
Hi nice vid by the way. but anyway since Im new to this tuning stuff, so sorry in advance but I have to ask what do you mean by stage 2 tuned? can you please explain just a bit on that and what are the bolt ons did you change and upgraded to be considered stage 2 tuned?
Tuning software simply changes the internal settings that the DME and onboard computers have set to operate the motor at highest efficiency, when you add parts that create better cooling or allow better airflow through the exhaust, you have to program the car to know how to utilize those extra benefits that in return make the car perform better. There is a stage 1, stage 2 and stage 2+ tune with MHD that are basically just different levels of changes. In regards to the upgrades, go to my page, go to playlists, and then review the video i did on full bolt on upgrades.
I have strayed away from anti lag solely because using rolling anti lag puts extra wear on the car and for my purpose it’s not needed as i don’t do any racing. But 100% rolling anti lag will 100% improve roll racing because you are allowing the turbo to build boost in advance. Anti lag removes normal turbo lag
The MHD anti lag is only 15 psi maximum and have minimal wear on the engine since it’s so low compared to standard alone ECU anti lag at 28-30 psi on stock snails 🐌
@@UnworthyMotors been running MHD stg 2 for two years at 560/780 with no issues. Best time 100-200kph is 7.5 on E30, you should try that blend, the car gets more aggressive 😀 and bear in mind mine is a convertible at 1900kg! Even the tuner at MHD was mighty impressed by that number when I sent him the dragy result😂 But, and the biggest 🍑 is you have to get xHP stage 3 and sort the issue with jolting rear end while shifting and higher stall speed while launching/tightenings the clutch IF you don’t already have sorted that out. With xHP you can launch with break boost which is impossible on stock TCU since it stalls at 1200rpm. I break boost to 2200 rpm and best time 0-100kmh is 3.8 with two males in the car. Best time 0-200kmh is 12 seconds and best ET 1/4mile is 11.59🤙🏻 BTW love the color on yours and the CS hood😍
@@josefinkjellsson7051 thank you!! I really appreciate it! Never needed XHP since mines i manual! I never got into the E blends but i know they def wake up the car!
We ended up finding out there was a little bit of air still in the cooling system. Once we bled that, it was fine. But we do see a lot of heat soak with temps and humidity down here
@@papermaker85 sheesh!! So you def know what I’m talking about! Yeah now she is much better after re bleeding the system. Runs about 493-505 consistently
Yeah they are on medium currently. Oh yeah, this was part 4 of the build series, if you go to my build series playlist, i did FBO and crankhub single piece, 2 pin by insane performance!
Check out my build series playlist, i went over everything i had done as i did it all at once. The high level view is, crank hub, intercooler, heat exchanger and catless downpipes. Intakes are not required.
No problems at all, i would say it functions great overall! The main issues with the stock one is leaking and failed seals. So the upgraded version to CTS helps with that but in regards to performance i don’t know that it really does a ton. The CSF heat exchanger up front does a great amount of impact for temps and pulls most of the weight
@@UnworthyMotors okay , thank you so much for the response, do you think the csf is better or this one actually doing the same exact job because csf price got me 🫠
@@Amigotheboss98 csf is the way to go for performance. Def would not go any other way than a csf heat exchanger, for the intercooler, you can do cts or another brand but the CSF one actually has marginal performance gains. To clarify, the heat exchanger(behind the bumper) i would not go any other route than csf. For the intercooler(up top under the hood) mostly any good brand will do but for performance gains you’ll want to also go with CSF. If i did it again I’d get both in CSF
do your research, csf is all marketing. Kies motorsports even tests it and it loses power over stock for the top mount charge air cooler. They never provide actual dyno or proof of gains. I went with mishimoto since they actually provide data to back up claims and even cost less. @@Amigotheboss98
So i believe for stage 2+ i would recommend also having additional cooling (heat exchanger). In regards to the crankhub my personal feelings are 100% you would want to be concerned. While some people have no issues, some people spin the hub without any performance Increase just on a stock set up. For the piece of mind and HUGE EXPENSIVE issues that could come from a crankhub actually spinning, i would upgrade to a 2 pin. I did another video on “should you upgrade your crankhub” check it out and let me know what you think!
@@UnworthyMotors thank you for the info! I wanted to get the used F82 but I guess I will have to negotiate to drop the price 3-5k to upgrade the crankhub.
@UnworthyMotors Yeah it's fully forged motor ported head full e85 port injection, water-methanol, flow max plus turbos the list goes on. The standard n54 doesn't handle much over 500hp reliably. I found out by a broken ring gland.
@@nimumma you will need additional cooling. I made a playlist called “build series” that’s everything i would suggest to run smoothly, safe, and reliable. The crankhub is optional as it’s a preventative measure but i would suggest it.
@@pedromiguelF82 whp, there's no way the S55 would only get 500hp crank on stage 1. I'm catless and MHD stage1, it's pretty quick. Just gonna fix the crank hub and go Stage2+ and ethanol.
So a stock m3/M4 base from 2015-2020 is rated around that range for horsepower. A lot of things come into account, temperature, humidity, elevation. Where i live we are at a good middle ground. I have yet to see ANY stock M3/M4 running on an accurate dyno machine running over 430. One thing to note is that Mustang Branded Dynos tend to reflect higher numbers. Not because they show more but because they typically over state based on the way the machine is programmed and calibrated. I would expect stock M3 M4 to run between 400-425.
Quite literally stage 2+ map 👀 with fbo. Only requirement for stage 2+ is downpipes and chargepipes and optional intercooler. So not sure where you got your information
You’ll have to be more specific what you are referring to? Tuning is very much so a process for all cars. MHD, Botmod3, Ecutek are all tuning platforms and the “tunes” are the maps that are downloaded into the ECU’s.
@@UnworthyMotors lol the way many young people say "Tuning" Americans never said "tuning" for modifying or building or souping up your car until this recent JDM boom since fast n furious. "Tuning" is what they say in Japan. (I have lived in both Japan and USA for over 40 years)
@@naturalthing1 i understand what you are saying but the general definition of what is being done is tuning”tweaking” the settings and parameters on the onboard computer system. I wouldn’t get hung up on the wording. These are tuning softwares.
@@UnworthyMotors 2 pin Insane Performance is the Best Bang for the Buck out there from my opinion. I know a lot of people with them installed, no issues at all. Very good quality. Just bought mine also recently, the 2 pin one which is enough, 4 pin not my cup of tea for the crank. Will be installing in the next months. Subscribed 👌🏼 Thanks for the info.
@@MrVanuvanu Ofcourse! Happy to help! I feel the same way. The 4 pin just seems like over kill abs i think 4 holes in your crank doesn’t really do a lot of positive. You will feel so relieved once it’s done! Lol
Basically around 600 crank horse power is insane on pump 93! Been saying these engines are heavily slept on with a simple tune no other car is giving you these result’s especially on pump gas.. more than enough if not too much power for the street anyways. Nice videos buddy
Thank you! I really appreciate it! I couldn’t agree with you more! These are very plug and play simple and reliable street cars at this level too, especially for the price!
Gotta love the sound. Nicely done! Amazing gains.
Thank you sir!! Loving the new Porsche btw!
@@UnworthyMotors thanks!
Beautiful car! Why did you lock the door latch and turn on the hazzards when u flashed Mhd? I’ve flashed Mhd for 5 years on multiple cars and never did those 2 things . I buckle the seat belt and never open and close door during flash but never hazzards. Seems like it would add to battery drain. By the way did u connect the car to a battery charger?
So yes the car was attached to a battery charger. The hazards i believe is just a signal for the techs in the shop that the car is tuning, locking the door latch is just so you can open the door but the car thinks it’s latched so you can get out while the first flash takes 30 minutes if you want. Staying in the car and not getting out does the same thing. Flipping the latch just makes the car think the door is closed.
Hi nice vid by the way. but anyway since Im new to this tuning stuff, so sorry in advance but I have to ask what do you mean by stage 2 tuned? can you please explain just a bit on that and what are the bolt ons did you change and upgraded to be considered stage 2 tuned?
Tuning software simply changes the internal settings that the DME and onboard computers have set to operate the motor at highest efficiency, when you add parts that create better cooling or allow better airflow through the exhaust, you have to program the car to know how to utilize those extra benefits that in return make the car perform better. There is a stage 1, stage 2 and stage 2+ tune with MHD that are basically just different levels of changes.
In regards to the upgrades, go to my page, go to playlists, and then review the video i did on full bolt on upgrades.
Hey man Did you get a check engine light from the downpipes or does mhd have an option to turn that off?
No check engine light! mhd takes care of that!
“You want anti lag” nah im not worried about that rn😭🔥have you used anti lag yet? If so does it improve your roll race?
I have strayed away from anti lag solely because using rolling anti lag puts extra wear on the car and for my purpose it’s not needed as i don’t do any racing.
But 100% rolling anti lag will 100% improve roll racing because you are allowing the turbo to build boost in advance. Anti lag removes normal turbo lag
The MHD anti lag is only 15 psi maximum and have minimal wear on the engine since it’s so low compared to standard alone ECU anti lag at 28-30 psi on stock snails 🐌
@@josefinkjellsson7051 good detailed info! I was more so just saying it’s “some” wear, but not alot.
@@UnworthyMotors been running MHD stg 2 for two years at 560/780 with no issues. Best time 100-200kph is 7.5 on E30, you should try that blend, the car gets more aggressive 😀 and bear in mind mine is a convertible at 1900kg! Even the tuner at MHD was mighty impressed by that number when I sent him the dragy result😂
But, and the biggest 🍑 is you have to get xHP stage 3 and sort the issue with jolting rear end while shifting and higher stall speed while launching/tightenings the clutch IF you don’t already have sorted that out.
With xHP you can launch with break boost which is impossible on stock TCU since it stalls at 1200rpm. I break boost to 2200 rpm and best time 0-100kmh is 3.8 with two males in the car.
Best time 0-200kmh is 12 seconds and best ET 1/4mile is 11.59🤙🏻
BTW love the color on yours and the CS hood😍
@@josefinkjellsson7051 thank you!! I really appreciate it!
Never needed XHP since mines i manual! I never got into the E blends but i know they def wake up the car!
So Mhd is over exaggerating there numbers they say the s55 is supposed to make around 580 on stage 2+ with some e and downpipes
Yeah, I’d say though it’s close. If i was running E i would be very close to 580. I’m running pump 93 in this video
MHD states crank HP numbers, so if you do the math it checks out
That much heat soak with an upgraded intervooler makes me think A pupms not strong enough or 2 flow restriction
We ended up finding out there was a little bit of air still in the cooling system. Once we bled that, it was fine. But we do see a lot of heat soak with temps and humidity down here
@@UnworthyMotors yea I know I'm in Louisiana it's been 113+ three days straight.
@@papermaker85 sheesh!! So you def know what I’m talking about! Yeah now she is much better after re bleeding the system. Runs about 493-505 consistently
@@UnworthyMotors that's good power.
What is Stage+ ?
What is the difference Stage 2 vs Stage 2+
I believe it’s marginal boost psi differences. Not much at all
Those burbles are AGGRESSIVE...sheesh. Did you you do the crank hub or capture plate by any chance?
Yeah they are on medium currently. Oh yeah, this was part 4 of the build series, if you go to my build series playlist, i did FBO and crankhub single piece, 2 pin by insane performance!
@@UnworthyMotors awesome, smart move
@@yg78t76t7 for sure! I was def not going to take any chances!
How much did you have to put in to make this kind of power? What upgrades? What maintenance
Check out my build series playlist, i went over everything i had done as i did it all at once. The high level view is, crank hub, intercooler, heat exchanger and catless downpipes. Intakes are not required.
@@UnworthyMotorswhat crankhub did you go with??
@@BluWTF insane performance 2 pin
Is it recommended to turn the hazards on for f series when flashing I've never turned it on in my e92 335is
In the shop we just do that so anyone else knows not to mess with it
What do you actually think of the cts charge cooler , is it good , is it doing the job , no problem ?
No problems at all, i would say it functions great overall! The main issues with the stock one is leaking and failed seals. So the upgraded version to CTS helps with that but in regards to performance i don’t know that it really does a ton. The CSF heat exchanger up front does a great amount of impact for temps and pulls most of the weight
@@UnworthyMotors okay , thank you so much for the response, do you think the csf is better or this one actually doing the same exact job because csf price got me 🫠
@@Amigotheboss98 csf is the way to go for performance. Def would not go any other way than a csf heat exchanger, for the intercooler, you can do cts or another brand but the CSF one actually has marginal performance gains.
To clarify, the heat exchanger(behind the bumper) i would not go any other route than csf. For the intercooler(up top under the hood) mostly any good brand will do but for performance gains you’ll want to also go with CSF. If i did it again I’d get both in CSF
@@UnworthyMotors okay thank you so much for the clarifications !!
do your research, csf is all marketing. Kies motorsports even tests it and it loses power over stock for the top mount charge air cooler. They never provide actual dyno or proof of gains. I went with mishimoto since they actually provide data to back up claims and even cost less. @@Amigotheboss98
What exhaust set up do you have?
Catless downpipes, the rest is OEM
@@UnworthyMotors sounds great. Thank you!
@@kyleyang2452 thank you!!
Once you get downpipes, charge pipes and midpipes you're safe to get the MHD stage 2+ Tune?
Should I be worried a lot about the crankhub after that?
So i believe for stage 2+ i would recommend also having additional cooling (heat exchanger). In regards to the crankhub my personal feelings are 100% you would want to be concerned. While some people have no issues, some people spin the hub without any performance Increase just on a stock set up. For the piece of mind and HUGE EXPENSIVE issues that could come from a crankhub actually spinning, i would upgrade to a 2 pin. I did another video on “should you upgrade your crankhub” check it out and let me know what you think!
@@UnworthyMotors how much upgrading a crankhub goes for? 3-4k right?
@@niziksobirov2477 roughly yes
@@UnworthyMotors thank you for the info! I wanted to get the used F82 but I guess I will have to negotiate to drop the price 3-5k to upgrade the crankhub.
@@niziksobirov2477 I’m glad i could help!
Nearly close to my n54 only 200hp to go 👌
I’m sure you have a pretty hefty build list into the n54. Pure turbos and e85 and I’ll be there 🤙🏼
@UnworthyMotors Yeah it's fully forged motor ported head full e85 port injection, water-methanol, flow max plus turbos the list goes on. The standard n54 doesn't handle much over 500hp reliably. I found out by a broken ring gland.
@@tighematthew heck yeah!! That’s awesome! Drop an IG I’ll have to check it out
@UnworthyMotors I don't have any social media but i might do a UA-cam video on it
@@tighematthew heck yeah! Do it bro! Sounds like a crazy build!
Is this with e85?
No, pump 93
Is durability okay if I make it st2+?
If you do all the supporting upgrades listed in the build, than yeah. Very reliable
I changed the charge pipe,j pipe,cattless downpipe, What else do I need to change
@@nimumma you will need additional cooling. I made a playlist called “build series” that’s everything i would suggest to run smoothly, safe, and reliable. The crankhub is optional as it’s a preventative measure but i would suggest it.
how much is thise in Horsepwoer and Newtonmeter?
I show the dyno graph on the video
Hp or whp?
@@pedromiguelF82 whp, there's no way the S55 would only get 500hp crank on stage 1. I'm catless and MHD stage1, it's pretty quick. Just gonna fix the crank hub and go Stage2+ and ethanol.
good power
I’m happy with it! Thanks!
That stock exhaust?
Yup!
Are all 2016 M3’s and M4’s only 425hp????? Or why does the internet say 425-444hp???? Thinking about a 2016 M3 (non competition)
So a stock m3/M4 base from 2015-2020 is rated around that range for horsepower. A lot of things come into account, temperature, humidity, elevation. Where i live we are at a good middle ground. I have yet to see ANY stock M3/M4 running on an accurate dyno machine running over 430. One thing to note is that Mustang Branded Dynos tend to reflect higher numbers. Not because they show more but because they typically over state based on the way the machine is programmed and calibrated.
I would expect stock M3 M4 to run between 400-425.
The competition, cs, and gts models have different power levels, but even if u get a base one, u can tune those maps
Thats not a stage 2+ but it is a great stage 1
Quite literally stage 2+ map 👀 with fbo. Only requirement for stage 2+ is downpipes and chargepipes and optional intercooler. So not sure where you got your information
Stage 2+ is about 575PS = 567HP and like 800NM
why do you say tuning? BMW is not ricer, it's Bavarian
You’ll have to be more specific what you are referring to? Tuning is very much so a process for all cars. MHD, Botmod3, Ecutek are all tuning platforms and the “tunes” are the maps that are downloaded into the ECU’s.
@@UnworthyMotors lol the way many young people say "Tuning" Americans never said "tuning" for modifying or building or souping up your car until this recent JDM boom since fast n furious. "Tuning" is what they say in Japan. (I have lived in both Japan and USA for over 40 years)
@@naturalthing1 i understand what you are saying but the general definition of what is being done is tuning”tweaking” the settings and parameters on the onboard computer system. I wouldn’t get hung up on the wording. These are tuning softwares.
498 to the wheels? Or engine?
To the wheels!
@@UnworthyMotors nice! 😈😈😈 So that is about 560+ hp to the engine.
2 pin Crankhub is from Insane Performance or I am wrong?
@@MrVanuvanu roughly yes! And yes, insane performance 2pin single piece crank hub!
@@UnworthyMotors 2 pin Insane Performance is the Best Bang for the Buck out there from my opinion.
I know a lot of people with them installed, no issues at all. Very good quality.
Just bought mine also recently, the 2 pin one which is enough, 4 pin not my cup of tea for the crank. Will be installing in the next months. Subscribed 👌🏼 Thanks for the info.
@@MrVanuvanu Ofcourse! Happy to help! I feel the same way. The 4 pin just seems like over kill abs i think 4 holes in your crank doesn’t really do a lot of positive. You will feel so relieved once it’s done! Lol
Pretty weak. B58 kills this
🤣😂🤣
Stock turbo, mod for mod, b58 has nothing on the s55 😂