thanks, I just went ahead and did it a few weeks back, and so far its working great :) I don't have any serving, but I used some black tape to do basically the same job. I appreciate the response anyways, thanks bro
Well explained, does that mean the sights are already adjusted prior to installation and once this is done there’s no need to adjust them or this is only starting point and then we have to use sights adjusting mechanism to accomplish better accuracy.
the first method with the 10-20y adjustment with the tape running side to side, it does make a difference from 10-20 it is small, but it will make it not hit exactly in the center of the tape at both, for example, my bow is shooting 322fps with a 305 grain arrow, so pretty fast and the highest it will hit is 14, so the difference between 14 and 20 will be just a little different, and this is even more dramatic for slower bows. good advice on sliding the d-loop around though. pse kid.
Brother, a bow is not a long-range weapon. This method is simply to get the BOW accurate. Setting distances is for finding distance to what distance an animal is. To make a killing shot.
You can accomplish the same thing at 1 yard and 10 yards with respect to the windage. It's called French tuning I believe. It's a better method if you don't have a place where you can shoot out to 40 yards.
There are rules in paper tuning. If you don't know them it's easy to give up on a bow that can make excellent shots. Because you don't know how to paper tune. Read on it by Easton arrows.
You say if you over to the left then you have to move your sight to the right? Isnt it the complete opposite and you follow your arrow???? I was always told to chase my arrow if im shooting right move right shooting left move left up for up and down for down?
Trevor Mackenzie If your talking about if your hitting left at 40 yards at 3:36 in the video .He doesn't say to move the sight to the right he said to move the rest to the right . The rest is what the arrow sets on when the bow is pulled back .
Even if the trajectory is completely flat and your shooting is perfect its physically impossible to hit in the same spot at 10 and 20 yards using the same dot on the sight. The sights are situated above the arrow so your sight line will never be parralell to your trajectory. Your sight line will be a slight diagonal whereas the trajectory of the arrow should be completely horizontal.
Also, the bows trajectory is never flat. It's in a rising trajectory. Then, depending on the distance. It may drop or fall to earth. I leave you with this tidbit of a pome by Saxton Pope. - The long, delicious mountain paths are yours. The estacy of cool running streams I give to you, when athirst. But last of all, leave for you. The joy of youth that throbs a moment in a well bent bow. Then, leaps fourth in the flight of an arrow. - Title, " The Adventurous Bowman. " in short, the story of life.
@@paulblackburn931 Of course its not flat but for the first 10 yards the arrow will have enough velocity for it to appear to have a somewhat flat trajectory. In all sight assisted shooting we talk about "near zero", "far zeo" and "apogee". Near zero is the first point were your projectile intersects your sight line, far zero is the second point and apogee is the highest point in the trajectory between the two. If you look at the angle between trajectory and sight line and imagine it as a triangle, having a zero that is very close to you means that the angles of the tringle will be wide. This means the apogee will be higher above your sight line increasing the distance between far zero and near zero because as we know an arrow fired at an upwards angle travels further. Without doing any math on this I would estimate that its not possible to zero at 10 and 20 yards on the same sight line (same dot on the scope) with an adult size bow. The arrows are too fast and the scope is mounted too high above the arrow affecting the smallest possible angle.
is it safe to put a D-loop on a compound bow that has a plain string with no notches or markings? I want a release for my compound, but have no D-loop. Obviously I'm not stupid enough to try a release without a D-loop.
The only problem I see with that is a inconsistent shooter could be pulling jerking and twitching wich could have them chasing arrows all day. But good advice theirs always another way to skin a cat
Sir, you're wrong about moving your pin to the right, away from the first impact point after the first shot that impacts to the left. You said move the pin away from the impact point. You always move it towards the impact point. To bring it to the center of your target. My understanding. Is that you said after the first impact point that is to the left. You then said, "Move it even more to the right. That would make your 40-yard impact. Even farther to the left. You always move your pin towards the impact point to get it on target.
Don't always rely on the string being right down the centre of the riser. Far better to measure the distance from the edge of the limb to the centre of the string at the cam and make a mark on the inside of the limb (on a piece of masking tape) at this distance on the base of the limb where it meets the riser. Do this on each limb and line the string up with this not the riser....then line up the centre of the rest with the string as a starting point.
john li Cam lean is not the only cause for the string being off centre. It could be down to poor assembly at the manufacturers or machining tolerances being on their limits but still within spec before you even look at whether you have cam lean or not! There are many causes but even if you have no cam lean when the bow is at rest it could have lean and misalignment when the bow is at full draw! Sometimes having a more complex bow leads to having more complex problems too!
Bs. If your dead on at 20 yards,and move your rest to get dead on at 40...guess what? You'll no longer be spot on at 20 because you moved your rest. Smh....total waste of a video and time.
Guess what? The suggestion to move the rest addresses centering left and right. The rest is not moved up or down. A properly centered bow will hit the vertical line at all ranges.
@@MrEye4get yes it doesnt affent up or down. But your statement reiterizes what i said. If your dead on at one distance,then move it to get dead on at another,then your now off feon your original setting
Rememder this is for setting up your rest. When shooting at 20 and its dead on then right or left at 40 means your arrow is drifting meanlng your center shot is off. Once you get arrows in perfect line hitting perfectly under each other at all ditances then center shot is set and your sight should good or very close. It's a good idea to always do nock polnt setting first.
Boy! I needed the information on adjusting “D” loop yesterday! I figured it out though. Very useful information! Thank you for making this video!
Best explained tuning video ever....and in just 4:37 seconds thank you
This video has helped me more than any I've watched,very well explained. Thank you so much!!
this is a very simplistic and effective way to set your sights, if your new or not watch this. great info. thanks so much
Well, he made a mistake about moving the impact point. Read my post to see why.
helpful video... alot of archers at my club talk about tuning but wen ive asked for more info they arent good at explaining it
thanks, I just went ahead and did it a few weeks back, and so far its working great :) I don't have any serving, but I used some black tape to do basically the same job. I appreciate the response anyways, thanks bro
Awesome video, thank you but why do you need the paper with the tape? I can just use my regular target and see if I’m high, low, left or right.
Wow, good video,very informative.
You sir are a wizard
Well explained, does that mean the sights are already adjusted prior to installation and once this is done there’s no need to adjust them or this is only starting point and then we have to use sights adjusting mechanism to accomplish better accuracy.
the first method with the 10-20y adjustment with the tape running side to side, it does make a difference from 10-20 it is small, but it will make it not hit exactly in the center of the tape at both, for example, my bow is shooting 322fps with a 305 grain arrow, so pretty fast and the highest it will hit is 14, so the difference between 14 and 20 will be just a little different, and this is even more dramatic for slower bows. good advice on sliding the d-loop around though.
pse kid.
Good job, very informative and helpful, thanks
Spot on! Thanks
excellent !!!!! awesome refresher. Good information thanks.
Brother, a bow is not a long-range weapon. This method is simply to get the BOW accurate. Setting distances is for finding distance to what distance an animal is. To make a killing shot.
You can accomplish the same thing at 1 yard and 10 yards with respect to the windage. It's called French tuning I believe. It's a better method if you don't have a place where you can shoot out to 40 yards.
Excellent video!!!
make sure to use same arrow for faster/better results
xarrow81 good thinkin. I keep forgetting about that. I used this method earlier today and I’m dead nuts on right now at 30-40 & 50. Lovin it.
No. Well fletcher arrows and correct spin shafts. With exact arrow weights is what's needed for well grouped arrows.
Excellent tutorial. Thanks for the knowledge share!
@newby1627. It is the plastic piece that attaches your arrow to your string.
Should you be using field points while doing this?
Hell I can't keep my arrows within 4 inches of it. I'm new need to practice before this.
Great video!
Excellent video. Thanks.
The walk back for left and right works great but for the up and down my bow is not this fast about 3/4 " pin difference on the sight.
Great video.
thumbs up if you've ever stood in front of a piece of paper and cursed yourself to hell and back.
There are rules in paper tuning. If you don't know them it's easy to give up on a bow that can make excellent shots. Because you don't know how to paper tune. Read on it by Easton arrows.
What is the difference between moving your rest up and down as opposed to moving the nocking point up or down?
You just saved me! Thanks
I'm glad I found this vid. Thanks
Great idea for sure!
Great info thanks!
I use a camera to line up objects. It makes a nice 2D image that's easier to assess.
What are those things just behind the limb pockets,and what find of string stop is that....I have the same bow as you
I have a bear compound bow Kodiak II 70 lbs. Its very havy to me I want to chage the wells, can i do it. You can send to me its.. Thanks.
i wouldn't do it.
I'm new so bare with me lol but couldn't you also move the rest up?..
Thank you this is helpful
Couldn’t you just move your rest up or down instead of d loop ?
yes I believe it is. However I would check your local bow shop.
Instead put the electrical tape horizontal and vertical so you don't go back and forth
and aim in the center of the 2 lines.
Why not move the rest up? Because it is easier. And it doesn't harm the string or serving. And you get a quicker result.
You say if you over to the left then you have to move your sight to the right? Isnt it the complete opposite and you follow your arrow???? I was always told to chase my arrow if im shooting right move right shooting left move left up for up and down for down?
He's talking about moving the rest, if it's shooting left move the rest right
Trevor Mackenzie If your talking about if your hitting left at 40 yards at 3:36 in the video .He doesn't say to move the sight to the right he said to move the rest to the right . The rest is what the arrow sets on when the bow is pulled back .
yes if you're adjusting sight but not the rest
does it matter if im only pulling 51 lbs?
Even if the trajectory is completely flat and your shooting is perfect its physically impossible to hit in the same spot at 10 and 20 yards using the same dot on the sight. The sights are situated above the arrow so your sight line will never be parralell to your trajectory. Your sight line will be a slight diagonal whereas the trajectory of the arrow should be completely horizontal.
Not if you know the 40-yard distance. With a range finder. And, if your bow is set to shoot 40 yards. 😊
Also, the bows trajectory is never flat. It's in a rising trajectory. Then, depending on the distance. It may drop or fall to earth. I leave you with this tidbit of a pome by Saxton Pope. - The long, delicious mountain paths are yours. The estacy of cool running streams I give to you, when athirst. But last of all, leave for you. The joy of youth that throbs a moment in a well bent bow. Then, leaps fourth in the flight of an arrow. - Title, " The Adventurous Bowman. " in short, the story of life.
@@paulblackburn931 Of course its not flat but for the first 10 yards the arrow will have enough velocity for it to appear to have a somewhat flat trajectory. In all sight assisted shooting we talk about "near zero", "far zeo" and "apogee".
Near zero is the first point were your projectile intersects your sight line, far zero is the second point and apogee is the highest point in the trajectory between the two.
If you look at the angle between trajectory and sight line and imagine it as a triangle, having a zero that is very close to you means that the angles of the tringle will be wide. This means the apogee will be higher above your sight line increasing the distance between far zero and near zero because as we know an arrow fired at an upwards angle travels further.
Without doing any math on this I would estimate that its not possible to zero at 10 and 20 yards on the same sight line (same dot on the scope) with an adult size bow. The arrows are too fast and the scope is mounted too high above the arrow affecting the smallest possible angle.
Awesome!
if you can consistently hit electrical tape at 40 yrds I will give you a reach around bro!!!
s Green I bet you would pack his fudge too
Lol yeah
🤣
😂😂
is it safe to put a D-loop on a compound bow that has a plain string with no notches or markings? I want a release for my compound, but have no D-loop.
Obviously I'm not stupid enough to try a release without a D-loop.
The only problem I see with that is a inconsistent shooter could be pulling jerking and twitching wich could have them chasing arrows all day. But good advice theirs always another way to skin a cat
Sir, you're wrong about moving your pin to the right, away from the first impact point after the first shot that impacts to the left. You said move the pin away from the impact point. You always move it towards the impact point. To bring it to the center of your target. My understanding. Is that you said after the first impact point that is to the left. You then said, "Move it even more to the right. That would make your 40-yard impact. Even farther to the left. You always move your pin towards the impact point to get it on target.
I love videos that are straight to the point and not full of bullshit follow me subscribe to my mommas webcam horse shit! Thank you sir!!
Basically walkback/frenchtune half ass style. Move sight at 9 ft anything further move your bow rest.
what is knock?
what if i am only pulling 40 pounds should i be dropping any from 10 20 thanks
No you shouldn’t
Yes you absolutely should. At 70 pounds you’ll be about an inch low at 20 if you’re good at 10
it's really easy.
Don't always rely on the string being right down the centre of the riser. Far better to measure the distance from the edge of the limb to the centre of the string at the cam and make a mark on the inside of the limb (on a piece of masking tape) at this distance on the base of the limb where it meets the riser. Do this on each limb and line the string up with this not the riser....then line up the centre of the rest with the string as a starting point.
if the string isnt down the center then you have cam lean and you have to fix that also
john li
Cam lean is not the only cause for the string being off centre. It could be down to poor assembly at the manufacturers or machining tolerances being on their limits but still within spec before you even look at whether you have cam lean or not!
There are many causes but even if you have no cam lean when the bow is at rest it could have lean and misalignment when the bow is at full draw!
Sometimes having a more complex bow leads to having more complex problems too!
Look at your string inbetween the cams. Not all bows have strings in the center. Usually left of center for right hand bow.
good initial setup,but fine tune bare shaft
yes
Across not acrosst
This is a huge pet peeve of mine. Acrossed...ugh
Is i just me or hi shirt is maching that paper
at 20 yards im hitting a foot low. when i move my d loop to hit center at 20 then my arrow is sitting at a 30 degree angle what am i doing wrong
Your peep is to low
Adjust cams for lean,time cams,adjust rest,adjust d loop,adjust sights,time your drop away,adjust peep sight....waaay to much.
Just shoot a crossbow
bonjour comment enlever la maladie de carte francis du nord.
No prob.
Not intended for beginners who can't shoot consistently.
Instead of talking about it. Shoot it, adjust it and show the difference.
This method assumes you are a good shot at distances at 40yrds? Who is consistent at 40? Not me.
40 yards is for 3-D tournaments or practice.
Well, that´s not working for my bow. It´s not fast enough.
This method sounds like such a pain in the ASS
sights are honestly lame
bows are honestly lame and cheating. real men throw rocks
Bs.
If your dead on at 20 yards,and move your rest to get dead on at 40...guess what?
You'll no longer be spot on at 20 because you moved your rest.
Smh....total waste of a video and time.
Guess what? The suggestion to move the rest addresses centering left and right. The rest is not moved up or down. A properly centered bow will hit the vertical line at all ranges.
@@MrEye4get yes it doesnt affent up or down. But your statement reiterizes what i said.
If your dead on at one distance,then move it to get dead on at another,then your now off feon your original setting
Rememder this is for setting up your rest. When shooting at 20 and its dead on then right or left at 40 means your arrow is drifting meanlng your center shot is off. Once you get arrows in perfect line hitting perfectly under each other at all ditances then center shot is set and your sight should good or very close. It's a good idea to always do nock polnt setting first.
yes