TORMACH SLANT PRO 34 SECOND PULLEY CHANGE
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- Опубліковано 7 лип 2024
- My modification to the Tormach slant pro lathe drive system to allow rapid pulley change for the two speed ranges. This link • How to Change Spindle ... Is the Tormach video on how to change the pulleys for comparison.
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I am "robinrenzetti" Instagram lots more content there!
Mr Renzetti, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE, you will have to make videos more often! Read the comments, you are an inspiration to so many people! The quality of what you do is almost unmatched
Thank you for taking the time to post a video.
Thanks for the very kind words and glad you are enjoying the content.
Mr. Renzetti,
Your ingenuity is REMARKABLE. The country, the world, badly need more folks, like you.
TORMACH should pay you for that system and incorporate it their products.
Eli D.
Thanks for the very kind words and glad you are enjoying the content.
HA! Even as I dont have a Tormach Cnc lathe, I found it interesting - Great to see your setups on the Cnc mill.
Thanks for Sharing :)
Thanks for stopping by Stefan.
ATB, Robin
I have watched every one of your videos, and I find myself watching them numerous times and getting something new each time. Thank you for all you do with these videos, they are treasure.
Marc
Thanks for the very kind words and glad you are enjoying the content.
Nice to see you posting again Robin. It’s fantastic to see a true professional at work.
Thanks, and thanks for watching and commenting!
Your videos are always fantastic. I end up watching your videos on one screen and an Amazon browser window open on the other. You and Lipton are always costing me money. I am just a novice machinist who realized rather late in life that I had missed my calling. You and a handful of others really help those of us who are starting out get the information that just isn't easy to come by without an apprenticeship. I collect all of the books I can find, but there is just no substitute for experience. I had subscribed on my personal account quite a while ago and wanted to add my channel account as well. Thanks again for what you do.
Awesome a new ROBRENZ post! I can only hope that this is a sign of more frequent uploads to come =) Thanks Robin!
Thanks, and thanks for watching and commenting!
So many ROBRENZ tricks in this video - Black Max Loctite being my favorite! Love those vice grip clamps you use. I use mine everyday. Thanks for taking the time to post this Robin!
Thanks Justin and thanks for watching. Enjoyed the last podcast!
ATB, Robin
Great modification, your solutions to problems are always a work of art~Richard
Thanks for the very kind words and glad you are enjoying the content.
Hi Robin,
Nice video. That was a clever solution. I appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge, understanding and wisdom with us.
Steve
Thanks Steve for the very kind words and glad you are enjoying the content.
ATB, Robin
Great Video Robin. I like the ingenuity and practicality you put into projects. It shows people you don't need the latest and greatest in machine tools to do great work.
Thanks for the very kind words and glad you are enjoying the content.
Brilliant.
Thanks John, The next step is a whole new 2 piece pulley where there are 1200 rpm and 3500 rpm pulleys on the permanent piece and a 2500 pulley that bolts on over the 1200 rpm location. I do fair amount of larger work where that extra torque would come in handy. Thanks for watching and commenting!
ATB, Robin
That is ingenious 👍
Brilliant. Blows my mind.
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Robin you sir are an artist and a craftsman. It's a joy to watch your videos and see your approach and solutions to things.
Thanks for the very kind words and glad you are enjoying the content.
So glad to get another video from you.
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always enjoy seeing your engineering wizardry. thanks again.
Thanks for the very kind words and glad you are enjoying the content.
Turcite Gibs as a motor adjustment for pulley swap.....only a Toolmaker :-P I'm totally stealing that captive nut design, by the way - now that it's in my head, I'm sure I'll be using it everywhere.
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Nicely simplified, next step automate the change with the press of a button, or just like me retire and don't worry about it... lol
Thanks Pierre, and thanks for stopping by!
ATB, Robin
Great Idea Robin. I like it!!
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I'm pretty glad to see a new video from you. Your design sense is inspiring. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the very kind words and glad you are enjoying the content.
Learning always when watching your vids thank you for sharing sir!
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Nice job Robin, some slick setups there on the mill.
Thanks Bill, and thanks for watching and commenting!
Really love the clarity of your designs
Thanks for taking the time to show us.
Will
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Amazing how you've increased the efficiency of this machine so much with your tweaks. I need to rethink how I have mine set up. Maybe this move is a good time to get things updated...
Thank you, sir.
Tom Z
You are welcome Tom, thanks for stopping by.
ATB, Robin
Slick solution Robin. Thanks for sharing...
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That is one hell of a modification ...Well done man...and thanks for sharing
Thanks for the very kind words and glad you are enjoying the content.
You are such a genius man. Every video is an insight. I would just be angry at tormach all the time.
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Very clever solution. Love your videos!
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Great modification, I agree with the magnet idea.
Thanks but magnets grow chip fur.
Very nicely done. Love the idea.
Thanks Randy and thanks for stopping by.
ATB, Robin
Brilliant modification Robin! Thanks for sharing.
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Absolutely brilliant videos. I am a machinist my self and find myself watching over and over.
Thanks for the very kind words and glad you are enjoying the content.
Great time saver. Love the swivel bolts mod.
As always your generosity and content are appreciated.
Kindest Regards
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watching your vids make me think anything is possible if you're willing to think it out - and have the patience and diligence to see it through. You're a gem of a contributor - Thank you
Thanks!
Clever solution, nice work.
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That is beautiful work there. Really nice. Love the way the motor plate is made, i mean those articulated bolts..great idea.
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Very cool video!!!
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Hi Robin, simple but very effective, love it. Kindest regards. Joe.
Thanks Joe and thanks for watching and commenting!
Nice modification Robin, kiss principal is always best and trouble free. As many have stated, we are always waiting for more content from you. Your insight, solutions, setups are a great eye opener and inspiration to many. Keep them coming!
ATB
Phil
Thanks Phil, and thanks for stopping by!
ATB, Robin
Enjoyed the video and the visit with you....hope you find time to post more vids as they are always interesting and educational
Thanks Chuck and thanks for stopping by , I wish I had a furry friend for my channel like Howie.
ATB, Robin
A nice quick and dirty solution. Obviously well thought out.
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Haha, a slight improvement over the 2x4! Excellent as always and thanks for sharing.
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Great solution, I am glad you found the time to post this, hopefully you will keep putting out videos. Thank you for taking the time. I listen to a lot of Podcasts but your interview on The Home Shop Machinists made me stop everything and take notes, very interesting.
Thanks, I am glad you enjoyed it.
I must have been living under a rock (maybe because I'm not a face booker), but I did not know about these podcasts. Thanks for you post. I've subscribed and look forward to listening to them.
Nice and simple, will last forever.
Radu
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great idea .
Hi Robin. Another great video many thanks
Thanks and thanks for watching and commenting.
Ingenious and well executed. Hope to have a Tormach slant bed one day. Now I know the first thing I'd do to it before starting it up the first time. Plenty of ideas on using turcite come to mind seeing this simple application. Thanks...
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Nice job. You don't just slap something together, but make it look nice and forever.
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Parabéns !
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fantastic! thank you!!
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Very Slick!
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I particularly like the side-shift for the motor.
Thanks Peter and thanks for watching and commenting.
ATB, Robin
The depth of thought that you put into a job, from start to finish, from fine to macro details, is amazing! Is there a category for "most efficient UA-cam machine shop" ? :) If there isn't, not sure it would be worth anyone trying to challenge you!!! Thanks for sharing
Thanks Pete for the very kind words and glad you are enjoying the content.
Recently stumbled upon your channel and I'm amazed!
What I usually miss whit bought equipment is the lack of thought for ease of use/service. Like this situation, it screams to me like some engineer just took the lazy way out in the design for changing the speeds.
Having said that.
I really like your simple and elegant solution to the problem.
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Very neat way to make a captive nut. Thanks for sharing this.
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Love it
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How about a review of your Parlec gang vises? Disappointed in the zip tie vs a grooved pin with an e-clip or a drilled taper pin thru the yoke and pin. I can't believe Stefan let that slide! lol Nice and cleanly executed.
I will do a video on the vises Brian, there is more to them than meets the eye. I can do rude and crude with the best of them ;-) Thanks for stopping by.
ATB, Robin
God damn that is slick!
Thanks Spencer and thanks for stopping by.
ATB, Robin
Looks like fun now.
I never changed it the old way. I knew when I bought it this had to be done.
Outstanding and brilliant. Got many tips from this video, some I had to write down in my notebook. By the way, you may save about 5 or 10 seconds by having the inner cover aligned properly and attached to the outer cabinet on rubber blocks. Then possibly they could open together and still function as intended. Just a thought, but what you did was great.
Thanks for the very kind words Glenn. Next step is a foam perimeter on the base hole that is the thickness of the current foam blocks and ditch the panel completely.
Don't have the lathe ,just their 1100 mill. Always thought the pulley change was a little strange and certainly not convenient. Nice fix !
Brian
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Very good engineering. When you are trying to make a living, you never have time for all the little niceties that would make it perfect, or at least better. Very functional has to be enough. The best body shop guy usually drives the worst car, because he is always working on others. Keep machining.
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Cool!
With the right size magnet, you can probably eliminate the tape too.....
strong permanent magnets require quite a lot of force to break up, and they tend to snap quite hard when you close them too, something like a latch clamp or a spring clamp would work much better IMHO i.imgur.com/qmZZmk9.jpg
There is a gap between the swinging and stationary part. The magnet does not have to fill the whole gap (but it could). And it does not have to be a N42 strength magnet. By playing a bit with the physical size and strength rating of the magnet, the holding can be as strong or weak as you like. Nothing against you, but I would actually prefer the tape over the latch. I hate those latches for most applications.....
Edit: I should add that it looks like there are soft feet on the swinging part holding the cover plate in place and I was figuring they would soften the closing....
Great idea but the magnets grow metal chip fur.
Yeah, they tend to. But your lathe is fully enclosed, so I would not think that is a problem. I have a small Roland CNC mill with enclosure, and the magnets I use inside to hold wrenches do grow fur. But the ones I use on the outside have not had that problem. YMMV....
ROBRENZ, you should open with the silver solder studs or the machined parts, great work. The tape and the zip ties might scare the unknowing away
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Hi mate. Man you make some nice stuff.
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Looks like how the belt tensioning system is on my pratt and whitney lathe, except it had two bolts on the adjustment side, one holding it up and one pulling it down--instead of your captive nut/washer thing.
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What a great mod, tie wraps (1000 uses) now up to 1001 ...
Thanks Stan and thanks for stopping by. When does sign up for the 2018 summer bash start? I hope to attend next year.
ATB, Robin
Robin, you can cut that 34 seconds in half again by adding a South Bend motor lift lever! Then you'll be state of the art for 1930!!! Ha. Nice mod.
Thanks Thomas and thanks for stopping by.
ATB, Robin
Very nicely done Rob, as always. It's not dissimilar to the pulley arrangement on my main Swiss mill.
My 2 cents for kicks. It would seem possible to attach that door to the electrical cabinet and have it swing away with the electrical cabinet. I personally don't like loose doors and covers, just because ... well, just because I don't ;)
I very much like the sliding motor idea.
Thanks Pete! I agree on not having to handle the cover, just need more days in the week.
ATB, Robin
I particularly liked it, and gave it a bonus point, because you didn't say "sodder" or "Heigth" even once :P
Great to see you back.
You might make it faster yet with some sort of cam to lift the motor plate rather than the nut atud,, or perhaps a multiple lead c
Screw thread.,
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Thanks Robin nice to see a video from you again your attention to detail is inspirational
By the the look of the mods tells me you subscribe to the KISS method of problem solving
Stuart
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Robin, it's time to join an F1 crew! 🙃🙃🙃
Great idea, thank you for the video. Matt C
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As an aside on belt tension a good rule of thumb is when it starts full out getting at least a full second of squeal from the belts is very good. In short belt squeal is inversely related to bearing wear. Belts are cheap in cost and cost of downtime bearings are not. Good video.
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You're a fool. No belt should ever squeal in operation and least of all when something "starts full out" which is almost always at LIGHT LOAD when the belt is "cool" and "tight". Squealing belts stop squealing when they overheat and get sticky or end up glazed and no longer have enough "bite" to "squeal" because that SQUEALING is caused by slipping belts and friction as they slide in a dry, bare-metal pulley just like dry rubber tennis shoe soles will squeak when they have friction and slide along a clean, dry and polished gymnasium floor. And if you think slipping belts don't damage/destroy bearings because the heat of slippage heats up the pulleys and shafts and eventually the bearings too you're even more of a fool. Just like you're a fool to think "belts are cheap".
Clearly you don't buy many quality drive belts for anything much less "specialty" belts given the fact that its hard to find even a single and "short" quality V-belt for something like a 1/2-hp single-stage air compressor for less than $10-$15 and common-as-dirty and widely used serpentine belts for late-model cars and pickups go for $50 and up. Get into large industrial belts that very few parts stores have in stock unless they have significant sales history for them to justify stocking them and carrying that overhead and are difficult/expensive to store long-term CORRECTLY. Draping long and/or large heavy V-belts over a hook or small peg or similar "hangar" eventually "creases" the belt and belts can and will "dry-rot" and crack in or on those creases even hanging on the wall if they're there for years or decades in modern climate-controlled buildings that are very "dry" year-round thanks to forced-air heating and central air-conditioning.
Bearings are specifically designed to handle the "vertical" loads they're subjected to BY belts, genius. They're not subjected to any OTHER significant loads since a balanced, rotating motor armature or the shafts/pulleys/gears in a "transmission" create "axial" loads that a SEALED ROLLER BEARING doesn't "feel" at all since centrifugal force of those rotating parts acts "equally" in all directions. And since loose belts tend to WHIP and JERK as loads are applied and removed and those whips and jerks create SHOCK LOADS that momentarily cause "out of balance" conditions as well as slippage/heating of the belt/pulley/shaft and eventually the bearing ON that shaft and HEAT is what breaks down LUBRICANTS and SEALS and causes "dry" bearings which eventually get hotter and hotter and drier and drier until they fail catastrophically and the shaft and other parts they're supporting end up "flopping around" and cause other damage/destruction, the quickest way to ruin belts AND bearings and ensure MAXIMUM COST IN MONEY AND DOWNTIME WHICH IS ALSO MONEY is to be a dumbass and intentionally run belts LOOSE when they're VERY EASY to PROPERLY TENSION AND CHECK AND ADJUST.
A properly adjusted belt will have a specific amount of "deflection" halfway between the drive and driven pulleys when a certain load is applied to it either pushing in on it or pulling out on it depending on and MANY belt-drive systems have spring-loaded tensioners with built-in tension gauges and you simply tension the belt tension adjusting screw or nuts until a indicator parts/marks are aligned OR a "sleeve" inside the tension spring prevents the tensioner from being tightened any further.
That this "expert" machinist thinks its the "size" or "weight" of the parts being machined or how "heavy" the work being done is that determines which drive ratio/speed should be selected instead of the MATERIAL being machined given the differences in cutting tools/speeds/loads machining ALUMINUM vs. STEEL because he doesn't get that typically a "specialty" and "production" machine like that is "set up" initially for a specific material/processes and clearly isn't DESIGNED for "quick-change" drive ratio adjustments or it would be equipped with a system to do it from OUTSIDE the motor/belt area where UNSHIELDED BELTS/PULLEYS are exposed once the side cover is opened up proves that he's every bit the machine tool expert that you are a belt expert.
CNC machines like that aren't general-purpose/one-size-fits-all machine tools like a "conventional" lathe or mill where speed changes are easily made without having to open up a "live" machine (in a factory/production machine shop or at least a GOOD and SAFETY-CONSCIOUS ONE even if there were no FACTORY safety "disconnect" to kill the power to the machine to prevent all possibility of accidental startup they'd have lock-out/tag-out and machine disconnects and opening panels like that would probably be a big "no-no" for anybody besides maintenance/set-up/service personnel and if he were really the mechanical genius/inventor he thinks he is he could have easily designed and constructed a system to have a belt on both pulley sets at once with spring-loaded/lever-actuated tensioners that could be engaged/disengaged from the outside of the machine in about 2 seconds.
As long as the tensioners were high enough to lift the unused, slack belt just slightly off the top pulleys or a "lifter link" was used to do so after a low-mounted tensioner was released, that's all it would take. Two belts and double the belt life regardless because each would only be working half the time. Of course he could also pretty easily just go to a single drive ratio/speed to provide 3000 rpm for "general purpose" use and be slightly "slow" for "light work" and slightly "fast" for "heavy work" if in fact it IS the "size" or "weight" of the work being machined that determines drive ratio/speed and not the material being machined or at least the type of machining being done. And even though a belt pulley size ratio is like a "gear ratio" in that it changes the speed of the shaft/machine being driven while the motor speed remains constant, the ultimate TORQUE CAPACITY or TORQUE DELIVERY isn't automatically "increased" by the percentage of "gear reduction" going to the "low speed ratio" from the "high speed ratio".
My good sir. Tried and proven, keeps the factory running. Like it when the fans or pumps start and they squeak, for the first second or so totally fine. Belts are sheaves are cheap compared to bearings. We must be doing something right because costs are down and time between failure is up. I'm not sharing an opinion, that's a fact that has stood the test of time. We go through fewer belts and sheaves due to lower tension, the belts don't squeak while running, we do monitor belt heat at least monthly and no issues there, the big bonus is we go through fewer bearings, if the squeal gets too excessive we can soften the start more. Reducing dynamic load also adds life to the bearings and the support structure of the motor and fan. We absolutely never dress the belts, never. Like I said if we were doing something wrong it would show, we monitor everything so if belts were being replaced more often that would be flagged, they are quite robust, the big one is time between failure. Currently we can sell more than the factory can make so there is no slack when it comes to downtime. The belts run a bit warmer than room temperature, that is mostly a function of distance between sheaves, need to give the belts plenty of time to cool down and the sheave size ratio, and the smallest sheave not being too small. The fans we have that eat belts are the fans where one sheave is too small and the distance between the sheaves is too small. Thank you for sharing an opposing pov it is good for discussion and clarification. Maybe you think the belts are changing speed all the time, they are not. They run at about two speeds day and night speeds, they run 24/7/365 the only real time they get shut down is for service such as inspection and maybe filter change twice a year, pumps are similar. if we are not getting the proper life out of the belts and bearings there should be a good reason that is known. The belts don't squeak while running they only squeak on startup with no drive, that's how we confirm we have a good tension.
@@tyhuffman5447 My understanding is belt tension should be as low as possible without slipping, so unless there's slippage issues under load no need to increase tension. Like you say it will only increase dynamic load on bearings. Good belt and pulley practices are proven in industry and belts are usually long lived.
Nice job! Not quite as fast as changing belts on a bridgeport, but I guess that is to be expected. I don't like the lack of a backgear on these CNCs, not enough torque for me.
Thanks and agreed! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Yet another situation where silver solder comes in handy!
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Great work like always. I cant give you 100% only 99.999% The tape need improvement😁
Velcro...
Perfect opportunity to make a latch.
I bet the tape is carefully calculated to damp out vibration during some crucial operation that requires some unreasonable but highly lucrative precision. I know, but that's what comes to mind when watching a wizard at work!
Lol Thanks, and thanks for watching and commenting!
Great little mod Robin. Well thought out and executed. How do you like your lathe?
Thanks Scott, With a lot of TLC it runs extremely well.
oh man I'm dying to hear you talk about gang tooling setup for a while.
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Hi Robin, nice to see you again, being a while since last, A question would it not be an ide just to change speed with a VFD, but I guess you have a good reason for not doing that, nice job, a good old handmade thumbs up.
It is VFD controlled for speed but this gives two ranges for more torque in the low range. thanks for watching.
OK I see, and to get the same speed on small pulley as on large pulley you would have to run the motor at 84 Hz, that would be stretching it to much
These a Nascar crew chief in you Robin
I guess I really should have used an air tool to do the adjustment for the proper sound effect!
lol that would have been funny
Very nice Robin, I like the pivoting bolts and the design of the captive nut, I want a project that needs this just so I can make these :-) Nice video SteveSummers
Thanks Steve, and thanks for watching and commenting!
Masterful pragmatism... right out of the mind of a master machinist and toolmaker... I stand in awe!
But there is one thing that made me wonder... a cable tie to secure a bolt...not a pin and/or a crown nut... how did this happen? ;)
Hmm... that can't be... Rob makes no flawed designs... he isn't lazy... there needs to be a reason... ease of disassembly? Do you plan on ripping that plate out often? Switch the motor? I'm still not sure... please enlighten me... just so I can die in peace. ;)
Great video as always... stay healthy and take care!
Frank Müller
I think it was just to mess with you! Haha
Thanks Frank for the very kind words, Those things were part of the stock rack engineering on the fly that could get tweaked later. "Later" has just not occurred yet ( going on a year) ;-)
O.K. I'm at peace now... as a genius you of course have the right to hold on to a project to finish it later... that may take a couple of years... ;) Thank you for your fast answer... now I can go back to my mad projects and stop riddling ... I thought there was a secret about cable ties I didn't knew... haha... now I'm calm again... thank you! ;)
Nah... I think Rob would never do that... he is much too nice for such a mean joke. ;)
Kind of surprised you didn't put hinges on that access panel.
Next step is a foam perimeter on the base hole that is the thickness of the current foam blocks and ditch the panel completely.
Sounds like a better mouse trap. :o)
Could you put in a CVT or maybe a three phase motor control?
It is VFD controlled for speed but this gives two ranges for more torque in the low range. thanks for watching.
Thanks for sharing. How long took the switch of pulleys before your mod? The only thing that does not look good to me is the black sticky tape that holds the electronic box in place. It may loose its stickiness soon due to oily hands or what not. I would have tried a mechanical latch or a strong enough magnet to keep the E-box.The Turcite sliders are a neat solution. How often will you have to switch pullies until you have gained back your invested time in this solution?
look at the tormach video that I linked in the comments above. I never did it the old way but my guess is at least 30 minutes. So maybe 20 changes will pay for itself.
Ok. Then it is not only happy engineering but also good for business. Congratulations :-)
Love your videos... what's up with the zip ties and duct tape?... taking a page from the Red Green manual?
I can do rude and crude with the best of them ;-) Thanks for stopping by.
Zip ties and duct tape in your solution....say it isnt so!? Lol tormach should take note! What a great idea
Nate Van Bynen he’s throwing us mere mortals a bone, the tape is probably covering up the holes for the latch that he removed just for the video;-)
Very good idea and well done .However I will have to lower your grade on the zip ties I know you can do better than that even a bolt with nylon nut perhaps. I guess you could go one step lower and taped the pins from coming out . You know there will always be a Troll watching Just saying. PS love your channel .
Those are precision dowel pins and I was trying to demonstrate some out of the box engineering creativity. Also that tape you didn't complain about is nasa spec aerospace billet grade skived from solid! ;-)
nice work. With the intent to gather some wisdom, why dint you just add a VFD (variable frequnecy drive) to the motor? I added some even to my bandsaw made life easier. On my lathe i installed a VFD too, works flawless.
It does have a VFD and two pulley adjustable speed ranges 3500 max and 2500 max. I just added a third pulley setting that is 1500 max which greatly increases the torque.
aha ok makes sense, torque can be needed. @@ROBRENZ thy for the response =) Are you planing to do a shop tour? and i asked myself "what would Rob classify as: that tool i should have bought earlier!"
Inspired by line shafting?
Possibly!
How do you like the tormach?
Works very well if you are good at tweaking things
What’s the biggest steel you have turned with this machine?
8" P20 steel hubs in production but turned corner radii on edges of a 12" dia steel disc.
@@ROBRENZ do you recall what DOC and feed on 8”? Thanks for your feed back
@@joshuaconner8635 .04 doc and .005 ipr
Great job, but tape, it just seems out of character, that's something I would do.
Thanks, I can do rude and crude also! ;-)
Like a bawss.
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ROBRENZ Thank YOU for making awesome videos.
Why not cut a hole in the front panel and make a door you can open- mount a Harbor freight 9.95 butterfly wrench on a bracket , plumbed to your air, and you could make the change in less than 10 seconds.
That is a valid idea.
Yeah- a lot less monkeying around than moving that panel out of the way. An even better idea is from the old Shopmaster 3 in 1 machines from the 90's- they had 2 belts running on the 2 pulleys, both loose, and an idler roller on a lever that when moved one way tensioned the low speed belt and when moved the other way tensioned the high speed belt, so it was just a simple matter of moving the lever. They also incorporated a brake mechanism so that when in the neutral position it stopped the spindle while the motor kept running, so you didn't have to turn the motor on and off every time you wanted to measure or change a part.
I wonder how much Harbor Freight ROBRENZ has in his shop lol
Lots, my next video is on making a surface plate stand for a 36 x 48 granite plate using two Harbor Freight tool cabinets. The quality of their better tool cabinets is second to none, seriously.
Wow, I am shocked (not in offense in any way). We run a custom CNC cabinet shop here (we=me and a few), and I cant even bear to walk in that place. I seem to have an alergic reaction to the smell of the ship's hold, and that reaction is reinforced by any and every interaction Ive had with an item from there unless its a name brand that they somehow landed on inventory.
Very interesting. I never ever would have guessed given the level of detail and precision. Time to re-evaluate my position lol.
wow great Idea I like it time is $
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