Using the CNC mill to do an old school metal removal technique. #practitioner_of_the_mechanical_arts Paypal donation www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr... Support through Patreon / robrenz
Just jump on that time lathe of yours and go into the future to where the part is finished and bring it back - too easy ! My problem would be trying undrill all those holes so i can fix a fatal marking out error which I typically only spot on the last hole 😫
For someone like me who did not go through a machinist apprentice program, this video was worth a lot. The tapping, use of the 1-2-3 block for datum reference, the filing, paper on the surface plate, the fillet meister AND the sheet metal shield around your table put a lot of useful information into a very few minutes. Thanks again for a really useful channel.
I dont think its possible to not get excited about a ROBRENZ or Oxtools video. You all could do a video of doing your taxes or cleaning your bathroom and it would be a full watch.
You say boring and nothing exciting, but I always learn something from your videos. Very helpful in how you explain how/why you do things, such as using the knife edge square the way you do as an example. Thanks for taking the time to put this all together. All the small tidbits are in there, explaining how you use your blocks, cleaning things, et al, all very helpful.
Good to see someone still using an HP48G (or possibly S?). Was super bummed when my 48GX screen broke in 2004...luckily still have a 48G+. Luer lock tips for both syringes and bottles are excellent. I buy a few different blunt tip sizes from ~24 to ~10 gauge for accurately applying adhesives, lubricants, solvents, thermal compounds, etc. Been watching religiously since near the beginning Rob...have built a passable university machine shop on the knowledge gleaned from you, Tom, Ol' Tony, Stefan and Adam. I can't thank you enough.
Awesome video. Nice usable chunk left over from the drilling trick. The rest of us would have been excited to throw chips everywhere. Learn something new every video. Thank you.
the guy I did my apprenticeship under taught me the drill roughing technique and the first production shop I went into laughed at me when I did it....THIS IS HOW ITS DONE MARSHALL!!!!
With the chamfer sander, why not make a mount that holds the angle iron guide at an angle across the belt width, so you hit the full width as you pass your part through?
Never need to apologize for voice overs. In fact there are many positives, we can hear what's being said without background noise level and you can focus on what what you want to say instead of dividing your attention between the job at hand and providing commentary.
This may not fall under the category "Exciting", but I had a good time none the less. Due to my disability I won't ever by able to afford machining equipment myself, but I sure do like to "get to hang with Robin in the shop" :) That you throw a bone for ToT while we are at it is just a nice bonus :D
Thank you Robin for another extremely informative video. These tend to be way beyond my skill set but I always walk away with something completely useful for my hobby shop but more importantly, I've been able to impress my supervisors at my new job. The effort you put into producing this content is greatly appreciated.
And I actually find voice over much more comfortable to watch. It comes out very calmy & you can better concentrate on the actual work. Thanks for another great video Rob! Cheers
Hi Great stufff - for chain drilling in steel I drill out alternate holes with a slightly larger drill - it breaks the web out on each side without the drill wandering into adjacent holes .
Thanks Robin, I did learn from this - sanding block, meister chamfer, flexing the square to confirm contact. I got an extra surface plate and an old porter cable belt sander just waiting for attention! Thanks again!
Thanks Rob, looks great! I liked the plastic bag on the calculator trick. Consider that idea stolen ;) I'll offer a trade of suggesting modifying your chamfer jig so it's not square to the belt. Unless draw filing we don't normally file along the part axis, so no need to sand precisely along it either. Chances are a slight angle wouldn't even be noticed in any case.
@@ROBRENZ Very good point Rob. However I don't mean to go crazy on angles, and just a few degrees will spread the wear area over the belt of that length considerably and I've never seen any burr when done like that to be quite honest. A machine like this has been something I've wanted to make up for a long time. I currently just use a belt grinder freehand and instead of yet another tool to take up space, may make up a jig to do this type of operation. My grinder has good facilities to allow tables and jigs to slide on/off BTW, no connection to this company, but this is the 48" belt grinder I use and it's from a Sydney, Australia company. I think you will appreciate some of the simple yet very clever engineering functions he's incorporated www.radiusmaster.com.au/belt-grinders/radius-master-48-series-belt-grinder/ I think they export around the world.
Thanks for another interesting video.It's always interesting to observe the approach of an expert. I personally have an aversion to scribing with digital calipers, but it is so convenient - my solution: I don't use my Mitotoyos for scribing but have a cheap generic set that I don't mind "abusing".
we use the same method at work to put large holes in thick plates. Punch holes with insert drills, remove lug, mill clean then bore to size. Works a treat
Years ago, in the 80's rough drilling was a common metal removal practice. even the CAM systems back then had an Automatic Rough Drilling routine. You could even use center cutting end mills and do Plunge Roughing. or with Non-Center cutting end mills, Pre-drill for the center of the end mill then do Plunge roughing.
@@wyldanimal2 mastercam still has those cycles hidden away. you can still use plunge roughing if you know where to look, though i really wouldn't ever use it anymore
Robin, I don't know what I was expecting but its way cooler than you led me to believe. ;). That was very nicely done, as usual. Thank you for sharing!
Robin, I take notes on many of your videos. I just reach for the notebook and scribble key words. Sometimes equipment, sometimes technique, sometimes solvents, support and position nuances bessel points and airy points..... Things to go study. Now I also know what I'm going to do with my untrustworthy metal surface plate, if I ever own a trustworthy surface plate...I just wanted to say thank you for sharing. I got a very late start to machining and have only recently done my first few operations, but understood where I was tolerance wise and what's practical with what I have.
Robin saved a big chunk of ductile iron for a future project too. Since drills are the fastest way to remove material (via machining), drilling like that ought to be about the fastest way to remove that material.
Well done. Looks like an HP 48G calculator in the resealable bag. Nice touch. I use that model myself. We have some great single point threading programs on them around here. Thanks
Thanks again, uncle Robin! Good content as usual, you always put some valuable information into your videos and present it the way that even roughing a cast iron block seems to be more interesting than almost everything else I have watched this week. I would wish you having plenty of work to do but then we will have less videos, so I'm hoping you won't be too busy and keep up the crazy pace. BTW you have already made more videos than in 2019 and it's only end of May!
Pop the waste cube in the post to me, then I can turn it into the fixed lathe tool post to replace my compound, it looks just the right size. Great video, still plenty of tips to pick up on a simple project.
For everyone commenting on setting the grinding belt askew for chamfering; does it not occur to you that you would want the belt finish in line with the chamfer?
Awesome video! Questions on the belt sander, is it possible to have the v grove mounted at an angle such that as you push the part through the v grove, it is also being pushed across the sander? In other words, the part/sharp edge start at the bottom right of the belt sander platen and end at the top left as oriented in the video?
Outstanding! Very nicely done and now you have some metal to do something else with, a little like core drilling. We keep the slugs .... never know when one comes in handy. And sure would like to seed what you did on the chamfer meister. Thank you for the video.
Out of interest,how much taper did you machine on the vice body for the fixed jaw? I'm guessing it would differ from vice to vice depending on how much they move under load. I'm thinking of doing the same thing with my kurt,but grind the taper in to the jaw itself1
Where do you get the silicon carbide sanding sheet big enough to cover that plate? That plate seems larger than 9"x11"- a typical size of a sanding paper ... Amazing skills and craftsmanship. You bring the whole machining experience to a different level. Your spindle bearing install and cleanup video is mind blowing and all your videos really ... respect!
👍 another well though out and planned job done. Is that technique only applicable to cast materials and not wrought? How much taper do u have in the vise jaws? Thanks Robin!
Instead of an oscillation feature on the chamfer tool, why not simply angle the guide across the belt so that the whole face of the belt is used all the time?
@@hkkhgffh3613 of course it would also be interesting to design a version around a wheel cutter with straight flutes and see if that wouldn't leave a burr, the sander is probably more forgiving though.
Now that's a quick way to remove a whole lot if stock and still be able to reuse it. I must say I was a bit shocked when you used your caliper to scribe those lines. I thought that was verboten?
Definitely old school - my dad had to cut parts out of flat stock on a Sigma Jones jig borer using a pattern of adjacent drilled holes when he started work in the late forties.
I’m also quite sure I’m going to build a cage around the table as well.. I’ve seen it many times in your videos and instagram, always wanted to do the same... gotta be time to pull the trigger. Trying to vacuum up behind the mill is a choooore
I use a Trak mill at work. They are pretty easy to program using the conversational language provided in the controller. They can also accept G code from Cam programs.
A couple of other really good and easy to program machines are the Hurco and Milltronics machines. Big advantage, they aren't limited to milling machines. I used to sell both machines. Look for used to keep the initial cost down.
are you implying... nevermind. :)
enjoyed! more like this please.
Not everyone can do magical karate chops :P
@@andersjjensen not everyone has the right chi
Thanks Tony, yes I was implying ;-)
Just jump on that time lathe of yours and go into the future to where the part is finished and bring it back - too easy ! My problem would be trying undrill all those holes so i can fix a fatal marking out error which I typically only spot on the last hole 😫
@@ROBRENZ 😂😂😂😂
Thanks Robin, enjoyed the video. Nice to see you have your 48GX kept safe in a plastic bag!
For someone like me who did not go through a machinist apprentice program, this video was worth a lot. The tapping, use of the 1-2-3 block for datum reference, the filing, paper on the surface plate, the fillet meister AND the sheet metal shield around your table put a lot of useful information into a very few minutes. Thanks again for a really useful channel.
This is for you Tony!
I dont think its possible to not get excited about a ROBRENZ or Oxtools video. You all could do a video of doing your taxes or cleaning your bathroom and it would be a full watch.
You say boring and nothing exciting, but I always learn something from your videos. Very helpful in how you explain how/why you do things, such as using the knife edge square the way you do as an example. Thanks for taking the time to put this all together. All the small tidbits are in there, explaining how you use your blocks, cleaning things, et al, all very helpful.
“This is for you Tony, no special effects!”
Really got me with that!🤣🤣
Awesome work as always Robin, excellent content!
Robin you saved all of that center material also.
Conservation of materials,genius.
Good to see someone still using an HP48G (or possibly S?). Was super bummed when my 48GX screen broke in 2004...luckily still have a 48G+.
Luer lock tips for both syringes and bottles are excellent. I buy a few different blunt tip sizes from ~24 to ~10 gauge for accurately applying adhesives, lubricants, solvents, thermal compounds, etc.
Been watching religiously since near the beginning Rob...have built a passable university machine shop on the knowledge gleaned from you, Tom, Ol' Tony, Stefan and Adam. I can't thank you enough.
Watching over your shoulder doing even basic things is very educational. Thanks for all the videos!
Mount the v on an angle to the belt and it will use the entire belt as you move it accross, instead of needing an ossilation.
You will get a secondary burr on the diagonal
@@ROBRENZ I shouldn't have even tried and should have just assumed you had a good reason, because you did! Thank you for the reply, always learning.
@@wheelitzr2 always try.
Always!
So satisfying when you knocked that core chunk loose...
Awesome video. Nice usable chunk left over from the drilling trick. The rest of us would have been excited to throw chips everywhere. Learn something new every video. Thank you.
the guy I did my apprenticeship under taught me the drill roughing technique and the first production shop I went into laughed at me when I did it....THIS IS HOW ITS DONE MARSHALL!!!!
With the chamfer sander, why not make a mount that holds the angle iron guide at an angle across the belt width, so you hit the full width as you pass your part through?
You will get a secondary burr on the diagonal
Really good video Robin. The This Old Tony hit was funny as hell! I don't like holding my hands up to protect me from chips. Been there, done that.
Never need to apologize for voice overs. In fact there are many positives, we can hear what's being said without background noise level and you can focus on what what you want to say instead of dividing your attention between the job at hand and providing commentary.
This may not fall under the category "Exciting", but I had a good time none the less. Due to my disability I won't ever by able to afford machining equipment myself, but I sure do like to "get to hang with Robin in the shop" :) That you throw a bone for ToT while we are at it is just a nice bonus :D
Simple, straight forward, but still learn something. Thank you Robin.
I say we all should learn something each day, if not, what the hell's the use?
Thank you rob, nice save on material.
And the karate chop, perfect, and real!
We are being spoiled.
I am studying engineering science rn but this video just made me wanting to become a machinist a little more :) Thanks for the great video!
Thank you Robin for another extremely informative video. These tend to be way beyond my skill set but I always walk away with something completely useful for my hobby shop but more importantly, I've been able to impress my supervisors at my new job. The effort you put into producing this content is greatly appreciated.
Your channel has one of the best Like-to-views ratios I’ve seen in a while. Your content is so information rich. Thank you for sharing what you can.
I appreciate that!
Never a dull video from you! Thanks for sharing this technique with us, it may be old school but is still useful and relevant today.
After all the years of knowing you - your workshop is still on my xmas list - keep up your magical work
That was a blast! Not just a cool drilling routine, but you get a useable piece of Cast Iron to use later....
And I actually find voice over much more comfortable to watch. It comes out very calmy & you can better concentrate on the actual work. Thanks for another great video Rob! Cheers
Drilling that core out also left you with a possibly useful piece left over. Thanks for the video.
Big chunk of useful.
Good eye!👍
Thank you Rob. I always enjoy your videos.
Love videos like this..... where I can actually feel my brain expanding, & getting smarter while watching. Thanks Robin!
Once a person's mind is stretched by a Great idea,it never returns to its original dimensions.
I enjoyed this video. The fast forward kept it lively.
I sure am glad that a pro is using the same method of scribing lines with a caliper that I use. Fun video!
Hi Great stufff - for chain drilling in steel I drill out alternate holes with a slightly larger drill - it breaks the web out on each side without the drill wandering into adjacent holes .
Great tip!
Nice way to not waste metal! Looking forward to seeing a build of a new oscillating chamfer grinder!
Thanks Robin, I did learn from this - sanding block, meister chamfer, flexing the square to confirm contact. I got an extra surface plate and an old porter cable belt sander just waiting for attention! Thanks again!
Ive been doing the Drill roughing for years now,,,seems easier on the machine and quicker.....Very Good Channel A+
Very nice use of the mallet! TOT will approve!
Great video, always something to learn watching a master machinist work! Thanks for sharing!.
Glad you enjoyed it
Excellent travail Monsieur
Tu mérite un j'aime + abonnement .
Un grand salut de Casablanca " Morocco "
This made my weekend. Thank you for the education.
Could you fix the chamfermeister by putting the part loading groove at a shallow angle to the belt?
What's the bell for? That slug was pretty awkward to handle with all those feather edges. Don't drop that and try to catch it.
All the best,
Tom
The bell is for when Uriah needs help
Relaxing video for a Saturday morning.
Just bought my first cnc mill (retrofitting an EMCO F1).
Hope to have that going in a month or so.
I like the way you did that. Plus you have a useable piece left over. Thank you for the video
Thanks for watching!
Great engineers use old school RPN HP calculators :)
12 minutes of #descriptioninaudio that's a YES !
Thanks Rob, looks great! I liked the plastic bag on the calculator trick. Consider that idea stolen ;) I'll offer a trade of suggesting modifying your chamfer jig so it's not square to the belt. Unless draw filing we don't normally file along the part axis, so no need to sand precisely along it either. Chances are a slight angle wouldn't even be noticed in any case.
You will get a secondary burr on the diagonal
@@ROBRENZ Very good point Rob. However I don't mean to go crazy on angles, and just a few degrees will spread the wear area over the belt of that length considerably and I've never seen any burr when done like that to be quite honest. A machine like this has been something I've wanted to make up for a long time. I currently just use a belt grinder freehand and instead of yet another tool to take up space, may make up a jig to do this type of operation. My grinder has good facilities to allow tables and jigs to slide on/off
BTW, no connection to this company, but this is the 48" belt grinder I use and it's from a Sydney, Australia company. I think you will appreciate some of the simple yet very clever engineering functions he's incorporated www.radiusmaster.com.au/belt-grinders/radius-master-48-series-belt-grinder/ I think they export around the world.
I have nothing to contribute, just commenting to make the algorithm happy.
All your videos are a rocket science for me... 🚀 Well done!
Thanks for another interesting video.It's always interesting to observe the approach of an expert. I personally have an aversion to scribing with digital calipers, but it is so convenient - my solution: I don't use my Mitotoyos for scribing but have a cheap generic set that I don't mind "abusing".
we use the same method at work to put large holes in thick plates. Punch holes with insert drills, remove lug, mill clean then bore to size. Works a treat
Wow Robren! Great video yet again!
Nice video. Love this channel and appreciate a lot your videos for the knowledge 🙏🏼
Glad you enjoy it!
I haft to admit that this is the most impressive thing I have ever seen in machining!
Years ago, in the 80's rough drilling was a common metal removal practice.
even the CAM systems back then had an Automatic Rough Drilling routine.
You could even use center cutting end mills and do Plunge Roughing.
or with Non-Center cutting end mills, Pre-drill for the center of the end mill
then do Plunge roughing.
@@wyldanimal2 mastercam still has those cycles hidden away. you can still use plunge roughing if you know where to look, though i really wouldn't ever use it anymore
Machining ductile iron is so nice. Could be how I wound up with my heavy iron addiction though. lol
I love the smell Brian!
@@ROBRENZ like a Buck in the Rut!!!
Robin, I don't know what I was expecting but its way cooler than you led me to believe. ;). That was very nicely done, as usual. Thank you for sharing!
Slick !! Boy I'm jealous of this guy
Enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching
Great old school performance.
Like the voice over actually!! Good way to save material and chip clean up too. Thanks for tip.
Glad you liked it
Robin, I take notes on many of your videos. I just reach for the notebook and scribble key words. Sometimes equipment, sometimes technique, sometimes solvents, support and position nuances bessel points and airy points..... Things to go study. Now I also know what I'm going to do with my untrustworthy metal surface plate, if I ever own a trustworthy surface plate...I just wanted to say thank you for sharing. I got a very late start to machining and have only recently done my first few operations, but understood where I was tolerance wise and what's practical with what I have.
Oh dear, it sounds like your 2 surface plates short of a full set.
@@millomweb Yeah, but I'm also the dullest tool in the shop.
@@HIBAW That makes for a funny thought: "I've reground my surface plate to a point" !!
this soothes my need for precision and attention to detail
For ripping a lot of material out quickly, you can't beat chain drilling-
Nice job!
Robin saved a big chunk of ductile iron for a future project too. Since drills are the fastest way to remove material (via machining), drilling like that ought to be about the fastest way to remove that material.
Well done. Looks like an HP 48G calculator in the resealable bag. Nice touch. I use that model myself. We have some great single point threading programs on them around here. Thanks
Thanks again, uncle Robin! Good content as usual, you always put some valuable information into your videos and present it the way that even roughing a cast iron block seems to be more interesting than almost everything else I have watched this week. I would wish you having plenty of work to do but then we will have less videos, so I'm hoping you won't be too busy and keep up the crazy pace. BTW you have already made more videos than in 2019 and it's only end of May!
You are very welcome
Reminds me of working as a helper at the mold shop. One of my first tasks was to drill sequential holes to clear out a cavity in the 10" mold base.
Would love to learn from you Rob. You are a grand-master.
very good video..thanks for your time
Thanks for the upload Robin. I always learn something from your videos. I enjoyed the voice over.
Cheers from Australia
Reuben
Glad it was helpful!
When you have time, I would love a video on the chamfer setup.
I’ll take a video by you however I can get it! Thanks Robin!
Pop the waste cube in the post to me, then I can turn it into the fixed lathe tool post to replace my compound, it looks just the right size. Great video, still plenty of tips to pick up on a simple project.
And you got a spare piece of ductile iron. Love it👍👌🇦🇺
Happy Saturday! I love your Chamfer-Meister™ tool, I would love to make one of my own, more info please! :)
Nice DPM with the AGE3 control. Just noticed this since I recently purchased a Seiki AGE2 knee mill. Love your content!
Awesome! Thank you!
For everyone commenting on setting the grinding belt askew for chamfering; does it not occur to you that you would want the belt finish in line with the chamfer?
highly appreciated, many thanks!!
Drilling that block out was a really good method
You should keep the drilled out block and put it on a shelf. It looks cool
Awesome video! Questions on the belt sander, is it possible to have the v grove mounted at an angle such that as you push the part through the v grove, it is also being pushed across the sander? In other words, the part/sharp edge start at the bottom right of the belt sander platen and end at the top left as oriented in the video?
Poetry in motion👍🏼
More interesting viewing from Robin.
Great vid. I also do manual and cnc on my SMX.
Outstanding! Very nicely done and now you have some metal to do something else with,
a little like core drilling. We keep the slugs .... never know when one comes in handy. And sure would like to seed what you did on the chamfer meister. Thank you for the video.
Out of interest,how much taper did you machine on the vice body for the fixed jaw? I'm guessing it would differ from vice to vice depending on how much they move under load. I'm thinking of doing the same thing with my kurt,but grind the taper in to the jaw itself1
Where do you get the silicon carbide sanding sheet big enough to cover that plate? That plate seems larger than 9"x11"- a typical size of a sanding paper ... Amazing skills and craftsmanship. You bring the whole machining experience to a different level. Your spindle bearing install and cleanup video is mind blowing and all your videos really ... respect!
Thank you and glad you enjoy the content. Look in the description of ua-cam.com/video/0PzCie9pgPk/v-deo.html for a source for the larger paper.
enjoyed....good lessons
Thanks for the video.
As always, very cool.
Thanks again!
@@ROBRENZ are we getting g a shop tour someday?
👍 another well though out and planned job done. Is that technique only applicable to cast materials and not wrought? How much taper do u have in the vise jaws? Thanks Robin!
If the chamfer-meister had an angle between the v channel and the belt would that allow for more even wear on the belt?
I saw that! Your block tapping technique to eliminate bounce back.
Steve
Thanks for watching Steve!
ATB, Robin
Instead of an oscillation feature on the chamfer tool, why not simply angle the guide across the belt so that the whole face of the belt is used all the time?
For real! I was ponderin how to design the osc feature... wicked!
Might leave a burr on one side if it was angled.
@@johnnason7019 For real ! True!
@@hkkhgffh3613 of course it would also be interesting to design a version around a wheel cutter with straight flutes and see if that wouldn't leave a burr, the sander is probably more forgiving though.
@@johnnason7019Good point. I was looking for the reason why that idea, which I also had, was problematic.
Like always sir a great video thanks again for sharing
Thanks again!
I like the smell of brand new tires
Now that's a quick way to remove a whole lot if stock and still be able to reuse it. I must say I was a bit shocked when you used your caliper to scribe those lines. I thought that was verboten?
Definitely old school - my dad had to cut parts out of flat stock on a Sigma Jones jig borer using a pattern of adjacent drilled holes when he started work in the late forties.
Ref Chamfer sander, could you have it oblique to the belt, say 15° or so?
Great vlog, thanks for sharing.
Regards John.
👍👍 Very cool, thanks
I am very intrigued by your milling machine, is there an overview video? or will there be?
I really need to learn cnc programming... that cnc trak mill sure does make quiiick work of all that processing.
I’m also quite sure I’m going to build a cage around the table as well.. I’ve seen it many times in your videos and instagram, always wanted to do the same... gotta be time to pull the trigger. Trying to vacuum up behind the mill is a choooore
I use a Trak mill at work. They are pretty easy to program using the conversational language provided in the controller. They can also accept G code from Cam programs.
A couple of other really good and easy to program machines are the Hurco and Milltronics machines. Big advantage, they aren't limited to milling machines. I used to sell both machines. Look for used to keep the initial cost down.