I Tried Cleaning The Inside Of My Outboard...
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Need a closed loop system. Bucket/pump
with barnacle buster!
or I wonder if he just sprayed it on and let it sit, before attempting to flush
I did this to a 2003 Yamaha 250 OX66 and it loosened up some corrosion in the water jacket part of the block around the cylinder. About a half inch wide and 1 inch deep. Engine was toast. Water couldn't make it up to the starboard thermostat anymore and it would overheat in 3-5 minutes. The water just dumped down the exhaust. So the cleaner worked, but it exposed a major flaw.
What also works is the same salt away in barrel with a pump connected to tube connect to where impeller goes and run that mixture with a harbor freight pump for a 1hour or 2 and then flush clean water through it
I was thinking the same exact thing.
Recirculate rydlyme, use a budget to catch it, old bilge pump and hose to pump it up the water pump pipe. It will dissolve that stuff really nicely.
Was just gonna ask about this. Is it to harsh?
This is the way to go. Rydlyme flush for 8-10 hours without the thermostat in. Pump it straight through the pickup tube. You'll be shocked at what comes out. I used a Rubbermaid container and circulated overnight.
@@christopherreilly4303 wow that's a long time, I got a pile of stuff out in 20 min. I'm not sure if UA-cam hid my post, but I posted a link above to a forum thread I created with what I did.
I came here to say this. Rydlime until you put a Tums tablet in the bucket until it doesn’t dissolve.
You guys are leaving the rydlyme in there for a very long time. Be aware that it's rough on the anodes. In my personal case, the motor was very clean after only 20 min circulating 50% rydlyme.
Do the same with Rydlyme. It will clean a lot better than saltaway. Connect a recycling pump to the intake tube on the lower end of the engine and recycle it for a hour or three.
you need a closed loop for that to work - drain the water with salt away to a bucket with garden pump or a 12v heater\bilge pump, ad an in-line water filter to collect all the debrees that will be washed up and leave the pump running overnight. I cleared several car heaters and cooling systems in my cars that way. Also the bigger the filter the better as it might collect a lot of junk.
Here in Croatia as a professional boat user (transportation) we use Ivero cleaner solution that with strong water pump in a closed loop (bucket under engine without lower unit) and without thermostat and 100% of lime is removed. You can google about ivero clener.
Dude. I’m surprised I know something g you don’t. Closed loop system in a bucket. Also a 10:1 muratic acid mix works well also. Salt away is the worst product for this.
Yep, barrel, pump and rydlyme...I have numerous videos on it. Saltaway is a joke in my opinion. I always have a gallon of it handy to clean up anodes. 5 minutes😂😂
Rydlyme like everyone else said. I have done many outboards it works wonders.
Barnacle Buster recirculated will clean all of that stuff easily. Marine ac guys use extensively to clean out ac condensors on boats. Salt Away is a product that dissolves salt, not accumulated corrosion debris.
I did this to my 2009 mercury 50 2 stroke You need the engine to be up to temperature to make the salt away work best
Open up the soap all the water and turn th water on slow
I just did my 90hp Yamaha 2 stroke with redlyme. It worked ok but now I need take it apart to deep clean. Mines doesn’t have a flush port so I had to run a hose up to the head. Please do the heads so I can see how to do it for myself. Thanks for all your videos!
Can you make a video on how to install a flush connector to avoid the muff’s to flush the engine?
An idea would be to setup a collection tub below the engine half filled with water and the Saltaway (whole jug?) and use a water pump, like the type used in garden ponds, to circulate the solution through the engine in order to give more time for the Saltaway to work.
Ye done something similar, with just regular coolant cleaner. Works really wel, just watch the engine temp.
That stuff is not worth the money
Why not just run the motor ?
I wonder if running the engine while flushing would work better since it will get hot and maybe clean better
I was told by many Jet-Ski guys that Salt Away is nothing but Dawn dish soap. They only run that through the skis. Anyone else hear that?????
Not true. It neutralizes and removes salt. I used to have to wash my black mercury outboard three or more times to get rid of salt spots. One squirt with salt away mix and they were gone. I use the CRC salt terminator to flush my outboard and trailer every time I use them. I have ZERO salt build up or issues.
Barnacle buster for the level of corrosion you have, and recirculate it. CLR mixed with some hot water if it’s worse. If it’s clogged, then diluted Hydrochloric acid.
Have you ever tried spraying the concentrate on the buildup, let it soak, then rinse it off? I’ve been told that is effective on nasty deposits.
Use a plastic drum so you can circulate the stuff, it works great. Awesome videos.
Buy a head gasket...pull cylinder head, use a pressure washer to blow out all the cooling water passages around the cylinders. Reinstall the head with a new gasket and torque to spec.....faster and far more effective.
Would vinegar help with that build up ?
Heya matey try some Clr calcium lime rust remover or some radiator clean
Recirculate cleaning vinegar (30% cut with an equal volume of water) thru a warm engine for 1-2 hours and you will be amazed how much calcium carbonate comes out. You need to flush with pure water after using the concentrated vinegar.
White vinegar!! Get some jars and test different high dollar items against white vinegar using the same types of corroded metal.
Salt away is only really good if your flushing your motor while its still warm from a trip out...for stubborn salt and lime build up run the outboard in a tub with a mix of white vinager and clr and leave circulating untill tub water is at engine temp prety much rougly 40mins then drain and flush again with fresh water all the deposits will be gone from the cooling system..this method worked great on a 140hp suzuki that had the thermostat prety much welded into the housing with corroison
Bottle cleaning brush hooked onto a drill and slowly clean it, vacuum it repeat.
Diluted Muriatic Acid. I have overheat issues with mine when left in neutral for a while and at idle after running. Put a small hose over your water pickup tube and run the diluted muriatic through there so it gets into the water jacket and clear all the passages. Put the tell-tale in another hose and run it back to where the pump is picking up the acid. Flush with clean water. I still ended up taking the head off of it to inspect and it was stupid clean. It didn't fix my over heating but the water passages are clear as can be.
Would running this in a tub with water/salt away work better? Allowing it to run through while the motor is hot?
That was my thought as well the heat cycles would help it with a closed system.
I used zep in a large tub using a pump to push the cleaner all the way through the motor. Got a lot of crap out of it. Found out the hard way that it will burn your hands...
Could have started flushing with the salt away/water mix and then when it comes out blue . Stop it and let it sit 5 minutes then start it again.
I used barnacle buster on a 1999 Johnson 70. No lower unit, no thermostat, pump with hose connecting to copper pipe and bucket to recirculate. I used ready to use mix...no extra water. Motor had scored cylinders and was going to be bored and rebuilt. Ran pump for 12 hours. When I took the motor apart it was super ultra maga clean
Interesting, we are going to try the rydlyme
Have you tried using a ultrasonic cleaner with a salt away concentrate on the smaller parts?
Saltaway does nothing. Rydlyme was game changer
Salt away is boarder line snake oil I might use it on a brand new engine but pointless on anything that has been in Saltwater for a year or two
what if you put the outboard in a barrel with 2 bottles of saltaway and tun it for like 3 hours
I used starbrite descaler liquid. Works great
Pull the prop, put it in a bucket full of Barnacle Buster. Voila.
Kiddie pool with a pond pump & rydlym.
Need a closed loop with a bucket for 30 minutes, and if you want it cheap use baking soda or (W5 from Lidl ) washing machine liquid for scale(3 x 250ml on 100 liters of water) use it for years never any problems.Big foot Mercury 60hp 2002.
I have been running my Honda 50 fourstroke in a barrel of fresh water once a month for nearly 2 years.I use new fresh water each month and run for 20 min.I am still seeing coarse salt granuels in the barrel of water each month! CHEERS from HERE! P.S. Boat and motor have not been in salt water for 2 years. Motor is 1999
Andreireal9158 and fmaalouf73 I believe have the right approach. A bucket to catch drained fluid with a bilge pump circulating salt or carbonated salt buildup remover would probably do the job with no supervision. Nice of you to show newbies how it should be done. Thank you.
You need a Salt King System
Recirculate Barnical Buster (properly diluted). It's Phosphoric acid and it doesn't react too much with the engine zincs.
Try some hydrochloric acid
I have a 2002 SX150 two stroke. What I do is attach an old bilge bump to the water inlet inside the mid section then place the pump in the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket with water and alot of salt cleaner.. Then remove the thermostats and replace the covers. Then run the solution through the engine for an hour. And, I place the bucket so that it catches the sight stream.
Always surprised the amount of sand and junk in the bottom of the bucket when done.
I have recently done this same treatment to my 2000 model 90hp Yamaha. I placed a 500gph rule bilge pump into the drum and circulated a number of different solutions over night and day. When 12v battery went flat I would replace with a charged one and repeat. I had to wait about 2 weeks for a new thermostat and poppet valve so had plenty of time. I used salt away, vinegar and dish washing liquid over the two weeks and at regular intervals back flushed the engine from the thermostat housing and also up the telltale hose. You will be surprised the amount of calcification and sand/ rubbish that is left in the bucket. Salt away is meant to be used after the engine is at operating temperature, you open the venturi and let the blue solution circulate for about 30sec and then shut off the motor. The solution stays in the jackets and does its thing and next time you use the motor the debris is flushed out and you repeat the prosses. I have found it dissolves salts but does not help with hard baked on lime that has accumulated over many yrs.
How about using CRC?
Gday mate when i stipped down my 92 40hp it was bad so what i did was soaked the head ,cover ect in a neat solution of C.L.R dont know if you guys have it or not but it works a treat really loosens the calcium and scale ,another thing i used was a stainless wire brush /s on a dremel to get in at the hard to reach places . I did try a soda blast gun but it was real messy goes everywhere but t least it cleans up with water as you probably well know watch those exhaust cover bolts i snapped 3 real fun to get them out anyway ill wait for the next video take care .
it was 60ml not 60 oz :)
great video! I need to flush out my outboard with salt away and change the head casket.
Yes another in depth clean vid please. I currently have a blokage somewhere causing overheating. COnsidering buying of those tiny inspection cameras to have a peek in the nook and crannies
Would the product " clr" work ? Or harm the engine?? Thanks
I don't think clr is rough enough to break the stuff up and get it off
Run it in a barrel with dawn liquid and vinegar mixed in the water. Run for 20 minutes at idle. Then let it sit for 20 minutes. Then repeat a few times. Cleans really good!
you must use every time for ru
If I recall correctly, salt away says on the bottle it only helps if you use it as a PM, right after using the motor. Not gonna help you when the water has evaporated and the salt is calcified
Barnacle buster I use it to flush just ab everything once the passages get clogged
I ran my engine in a bucket of vinegar and then ran it many times with soapy and clean water to neutralize the vinegar and it was pretty clean behind the thermostat
As others have said closed loop with a pump might have worked. There are some other cleaners for this.
not 60oz no way
I usually end up having to pull the heads and take a Dremel tool to carve out all the deposits
60mliters
It seems impossible to prevent salt buildup.
It needs to be running for it to work properly
yeeeeee
Ha!
I’d be interested in seeing a full engine cleaning.
ua-cam.com/video/ZUUngc7lotc/v-deo.html
You run gallon of muratic acid, then rinse with baking soba, it will look new again. But you need to run 50/50 mix. Your mix was way too deluded. I would just drop old thermostats in saltway mix and see how much it helps.
If you are going to try this method make sure not to breathe any fumes and don’t get any on your skin. Have water and baking soda mix ready if you need wash acid of your skin.
I would be very weary of running acid through my engine. It could eat the gaskets and seals. Scary unless I was doing a full overhaul anyway…
@@DrEd-th2lu true if you don’t kill the acid and just let it sit there. It eats organic growth much faster than metal. You can practice on old parts and see how aggressive you want your mix 1/1, 4/1, or 10/1
The salt away is pretty much vinegar with detergent. It probably works if you use it often on your motor since new
That will eat everything up. Your trading one corrosive for another.
This is so timely. Been doing the same thing on my V4 130 Saltwater series here in Australia. Motor has been running great, but was/is throwing an overheat alarm at high rpm, so trying Saltaway first. Will do poppets and thermostats later and hope it makes a difference.
Skip the salt away. Get Rydlyme and flush through the pickup overnight.
@@christopherreilly4303 I'm going to get Redlyme or Salt attack, put the engine in a container, run the redlyme at a 50:50 ratio and let the engine run for a couple of hours.
You shouldn't let the engine run. Take the thermostat out and put the housing back on. That will let the rydlyme fully circulate. Pull the lower unit and hook a bilge pump up to the pickup tube. Put the pump in a big Rubbermaid storage container under the motor and let it circulate. Let it go for 12 hours.
I use a jump box to run the bilge pump. You can use drill batteries too. Makes it really easy.
@@christopherreilly4303 I'm willing to give that a go as a last resort. $380 for a 5 gallons of Rydlyme here in Aus. Plus a bilge pump $80, plus a jump box - $100 or so.
But it does seem like an easy thing to do. Is there anything I need to be careful of, when taking the lower housing off? And torque settings when re-assembling?
Update; just did the Rydlyme with a plastic tub underneath the engine recirculating it with a bilge pump. Started around 12pm and finished flushing at 8pm. Alot of crud came out, but the fluid was still quite foamy. Hoping it works, but have plenty left over for an additional flush should the engine require it. Hoping for good things next time I take the boat out.
Superb as ever. Love the channel ❤️
Thank you!