LUCKY EP.11 | Choppin Block or Porterbuilt Control Arms? Review and Installation | C10 Air Ride
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- In this video, we finish up the front air ride setup on Lucky! I install Choppin Block control arms, React shock relocation, disc Brakes, and route our front air lines! Check out simplec10.co for more C10 parts, resources, and DIY videos.
Parts mentioned in this video:
Choppin’ Block Control Arms: simplec10.mysh...
Bulkhead 90 Degree Fittings: amzn.to/3Hm5Kzr
Simple.C10 Air Ride Kit: simplec10.mysh...
Velaworks Front DIY Slam Kit: simplec10.mysh...
Disc Brake Conversion: simplec10.mysh...
Sweet Patina Black Out Frame Paint: sweetpatina.bi...
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100% after market plug and play kits 👍👍👍
Yes sir
This video is exactly what I needed to get a set myself. Been looking at them for awhile. But after breaking a ball joint while driving. With my cupped lowers. I realized pb arms geometry changes ball joint angle/binding. Definitely strong and safe move!
I’ve had a good experience with stock arms but it will be good to know if aftermarket make a huge difference.
Glad I found this video, thanks man 😎
Thanks for watching
Great video bro!
Thank you
Both great companies.
I believe you're comparing apples to oranges as one set is narrowed and the other isn't.
I’m really only comparing the benefits of one compared to the other like powder coating, ball joint installation, and clarifying that if you go with narrow then get the right backspacing. I’m not really saying one is necessarily better than the other. I hope that came across clear in the video. Thanks for watching. I appreciate it.
Great stuff as always. Hopefully when I start on my 58 apache I can figure all this out.
Let me know when you start!
They look nice it’s getting there good job
Thanks!
That wasn’t a mistake it was a learning moment for me it would be an expensive learning moment if I was to change arms
With the Porter Built control arms can you still run stock inter fenders with them being cut out
No I have the porterbuilt dropmember. And I had to use the simple guide to cut out my inner fenders. That is of course I’m running 22’s and laying frame though
Yes you can run factory inners with the simple guide cut out. That’s what I’m doing. It depends on your backspacing though.
I’m running transport wheels and have simple guide cut outs.. do these control arms help with camber
@@brentsheets117 I can’t really tell about camber yet but I can measure it once lucky is back. I can put a level on the outside of Francis with the factory arms and then lucky with the porterbuilt. Good question.
I have a porterbuilt level 3 kit. There narrowed and forward 1 inch. So does my buddy and he’s running mobsteel 22’s with 5 inch back spacing and they turn completely and lock perfectly. I wonder if it’s because we’re running the entire porterbuilt dropmember and not the stock one is why we’re not having the turn issues you had. I was empresses how easy you put the ball joints on the lowers. I had a hard time on my porterbuilt I ended us scratching the powder coat real bad But then again I used a 12 ton press
The problem was with the chopping block arms not the porterbuilt. The porterbuilt worked great. And a drop member changes everything in the front so that does factory in. Thanks so much for the feedback and watching. Sorry you scratched your arm. It will eventually get drug anyways haha.
I like the control arms I just bought 4.5 backspace they work for now, what size tires are those I know 22” but what is the sidewall
When using the stock trailing arm crossmember and trailing arms do you use the stock drive shaft with a carrier bearing or a 1 piece drive shaft? If it's a 1 piece drive shaft do you need to cut the top of the cross member out? Any advice is helpful, thank you for your advice in advance.
One piece driveshaft on short bed. Shorten the driveshaft about an inch. You’ll need to measure. You need to notch the trailing arm crossmember up top or change it to the tinworks one.
Do you prefer the porters over any other control arm manufacturers? They seem superior to all the other options out there.
They are my preferred choice but the chopping block are good if you have the right backspacing
@@SIMPLE.C10 appreciate it!! Keep up the great content!
I’m thinking of getting the PB 1in forward 1in narrow do you think I’ll have an issue with 5in back spacing? My Wheel size are 22x9
Thanks for the video! It’s like you knew I was getting ready to buy these. lol
I think you would be fine with the porterbuilt ones. Your tire may get real close to the shock at full lock.
Do you have a link budd I have the same system p3 performance how 2017 single cab do they make any for that Chevy 1500 thanks
I have really bad camber on stock control arms (especially when aired out… will Porterbuilt arms help with that?
Also, what exactly does the “narrowed” mean on their arms? The arms themselves are narrowed or they bring the wheel in, narrowing the width? Thanks!
Narrows the track width.
What size wheels and tires do you have and do you have drop spindles, are your lowers cupped? Let me know more about your build. The camber actually helps with tucking these wheels when laid out but straightens up at ride height.
@@SIMPLE.C10 currently have 22x9 up front with 5 3/4” backspace. I will be getting new wheels same size up front except I will be running 6” backspace.
2.5” drop spindles lowers are cupped.
What ball joints would you suggest to go with the porters? I have a 64.
Whatever your spindles take.
@@SIMPLE.C10 I’ve got the CPP drop spindles. I’ve heard the 70’s ball joints are better.
How much for the chopping block arms lol
I have them on my site www.simplec10.co
Wannna donate me the chopping block arms??
Sorry. I sold them already.