I decided to not put hot metal near carbon rim. Could melt carbon. Used a nail to start a pilot hole, then pushed cold phillips screwdriver into hole. Worked great.
Video: Tubeless Tire Rim Tape for Clincher Rims; Is this video referring to clincher tires only? Inside video it shows a diagram of clincher, tubeless and Hookless Tubeless. I am to assume in the diagram, that it only refers to a clincher tire on the various rim types. Does "hookless tubeless" refer to a hookless rim relative to putting on a clincher tire as this seemed to be the context of the video. Are you putting on a clincher tire on a clincher rim or a tubeless tire on a clincher rim? In the diagram, the reference is that the rim is a clincher rim and either you are installing a clincher tire on a clincher rim (1 layer of tape), or a tubeless tire on a clincher rim (2 layers of tubeless tape) or a Hookless tire on a clincher rim? The word clincher was used several times, but it was confusing, whether you were referring to clincher rims or clincher tires. How does installing tubeless, rim tape make a clincher tire, easier to install on a clincher rim? Is that the purpose of the video? Can you install a clincher tire on a tubeless rim and go tubeless and not use a tube?
I thought it was pretty clear, but I guess not to all. We are talking about using tubeless tape for CLINCHERS (clincher rims with INNER tubes). Using a thinner tape makes it easier to remove and install clinchers on clincher rims and is now the standard: Two layer of tubeless tape is thinner then the usual Velox tape which makes changing tubes and tires easier on CLINCERS. Hope that makes it clear.
I would agree, but, when was the last time you've seen a broken spoke? With todays wheels, it seems to be a rare occurrence. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed You are definitely right. Your advice is meant for people having hard time putting on their clinchers on their road bikes, yet I do not have to struggle to put on clincher tires on my hybrid Trek FX 1 :-) Low low-end Trek bike comes with low-end wheels whose spokes are just not tension-ed properly. Since I am a slow learner, I broke 4 spokes in one Trek FX 1, and 2 spokes in another Trek FX 1, until I reached a conclusion I should buy a spoke tension gauge and re-true the wheels myself. This indeed did the trick.
My old giant cypress has half inch rim tape covering only the inner depression of the rim. I"m debating if I should get thicker tape to cover wall for new clinchers. But my rim is differnt then this one with one inner depression that gradually goes all the way up at the sides. hmm.
The rim tape on a clincher should at least go from one inner wall to the next (need not go up the inner wall on each side as it must with tubeless tires). In your case, the tape should sufficiently cover all holes of the spoke nipples and extend a few mm up the rim sides. You can use Velox tape or 2 layers of tubeless tape. Let me know if you have further questions. Regards, Tony
Hello Tony, have you used latex tubes with tubeless rim tape? I'm gonna try 'em and read that TL tape is better than other varieties as it sticks to rim and don't moves. Also TL tape is smooth and shouldn't eat into gentle latex tube - just edges should stick to rim firmly to not allow tube go under tape. What would you suggest regarding latex tubes and rim tape combination? Thanks in advance!
I have not used latex tubes in the past 10 years or so. But I use tubeless tape for all the wheels I currently build. Once around for tubelss tires and twice around for clinchers (that would include latex tubes). The thinner tape holds up well and make tire removal and installation easier/faster whether in the shop or fixing a flat out on the road. So, by all means, I would recommend tubeless tape. Here's a nice video on the newer TPU tubes: ua-cam.com/video/hFX-5I1GHoI/v-deo.html Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Appreciate your speedy replay, Tony! Thanks for knowledge you are sharing, your video probably is last drop in my cup of trying TL tape. Will watch your experience with TPU tubes, too (edit: not yours, but still thanks!). Loved your paper strip trick to figure out width of tape! That's an easy way to get it right as it's full potential probably only works when it extending right to edges (speaking of clinchers).
Stan's and WTB get high recommendations. However, they may not come in the width you require. Tubeless rim tape is available in a variety of sizes on Ebay. I've used the following with great success: www.ebay.com/itm/164872740557?hash=item26632e5ecd:g:nzgAAOSwIHVgpAUV Regard, Tony
Thanks Tony! For anyone wondering, you will need around 3.2 m of tape for a 26" MTB wheel [if you are wrapping the tape around the wheel twice]. cheers! JB
Clinchers run at a high pressure, requiring two warps of tubeless tape. If you use only one wrap, the clincher tube may protrude through the spoke access hole and "blow-out" during your ride. Tubeless tires run at a much lower pressure and require only one wrap. However, there are now available tubeless rims with no access holes (but are tricky to build). See: ua-cam.com/video/nXeZfRD-fQ4/v-deo.html Thanks for the question. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Sir, what should I do if the pedal is hitting the metal that sustains the tire? Everytime I pedal, it hits the metal. Should I get new pedals or can I fix it in a way?
The solution for you are pedal extenders. See: www.amazon.com/s?k=bicycle+pedal+extenders&crid=1IYRAQXCIZQEC&sprefix=bicycle+pedal+extenders%2Caps%2C193&ref=nb_sb_ss_midas-iss-sm_1_23 Regards, Tony
Hello sir, I have a problem with my hydraulic rear brake. When I press on the lever, it doesn't brake good and also it makes a really loud noise. This began when I washed my bike with water and soap. I have done 4-5 rides after it, holding the brake, but nothing has happened. Could you help me with it? Thank you.
Sounds like contanimated disc brake pads or rotors. Here are some videos that may help you: ua-cam.com/video/Hj9vSl2Vxns/v-deo.html&ab_channel=RidesofJapan and ua-cam.com/video/sMk-AiuyfYk/v-deo.html&ab_channel=GlobalMountainBikeNetwork Regards, Tony
The rim must be tubeless ready (usually stated in the rim specifications). If you can't find the specifications, check with your local bike shop. Placing a tubeless tire on a clincher rim could lead to the tire coming off the rim while you're cycling and that could be dangerous. Thanks for the question and safe cycling, Tony
The key is the right tire/rim combination. Some are extremely difficult. For clinchers 28 mm or less, you can use the EZclincher which is small enough to fit in your saddle bag. See: ua-cam.com/video/TyvIvfhHVJU/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
I’ve never tried that stuff but it looks like tough material, nothing like that old cotton stuff! Watching you make the hole, I was wondering if after poking the awl through if you pushed a ball bearing through from the inside if it would form a lining for the valve hole that might protect the neck of the tube. Might be too tight for the stem, but maybe worth a try? Excellent video. Nice graphics, too!
Thanks trackie. I used a heated Phillip head screw driver to make the hole. I don't think I'd use a ball bearing because it might wind up in the space between the rim lining and the portion of the rim where the spoke protrude. Regards, Tony
Your marked masking tape trick is cool! I must confess - the idea of using thin plastic rim tape provokes an "allergic reaction" for me. After my last flat (during an event ride) caused by failed rim tape, I said nevermore and replaced it with Velox on both bikes. If tight clinchers were an issue on my bikes, I think I'd look at Velocity Veloplugs. These add zero thickness under the bead area, and I'd think the weight-weenie crowd would be happy since they only add about 5g per wheel. Have you ever looked into those?
When using tubeless rim tape for clinchers, TWO layers of QAULITY tape are required. I would suggest it for those difficult tire/rim combinations to ease tire installation. Many wheel manufactures have also switched to 2 layers of tubeless tape. But, as you state, Velox tape is still the state of the art for clinchers and I still use it on my Mavic Open Pro rims and ride. As far as rim plugs, yes, I have tried them. They work well but do indeed take up some space in the rim and do not ease tire installation. If you have a tire/rim combination that's fairly easy to remove and install the tire, rim plugs hold up well and do not wear out compared to rim tape (even Velox) which eventually wears. One should always check the wheel rim tape every time you install a new tire. When you see the tape bulge down into the spoke hole, it's time to replace the tape before it breaks. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Thanks, I've never tried Veloplugs myself, but was wondering if they helped. Why don't they help with tire installation? Are the heads of those plugs so big in diameter that they actually consume space where the bead sits?
Should you be covering more of the inside wall of the rim with the tubeless tape?
Not for clinchers. However, for tubeless they suggest about 1 mm up the inside wall of the rim (as shown in one of the diagrams in the video).
I like the trick of heating the Phillips head screwdriver to create the valve opening.
I decided to not put hot metal near carbon rim. Could melt carbon. Used a nail to start a pilot hole, then pushed cold phillips screwdriver into hole. Worked great.
You have a lot of growing experience, you have given good information
Thanks. We hope to continue so. Regards, Tony
Mechanics can benefit greatly from this content
You have given very good information I will always remember you and your work will go ahead fast.
you have a lot of experience very good you sent this message to us i like the way you work
This was extremely useful!
Glad to be of help. Regards, Tony
This is a good result of your hard work.
Video: Tubeless Tire Rim Tape for Clincher Rims; Is this video referring to clincher tires only? Inside video it shows a diagram of clincher, tubeless and Hookless Tubeless. I am to assume in the diagram, that it only refers to a clincher tire on the various rim types. Does "hookless tubeless" refer to a hookless rim relative to putting on a clincher tire as this seemed to be the context of the video. Are you putting on a clincher tire on a clincher rim or a tubeless tire on a clincher rim? In the diagram, the reference is that the rim is a clincher rim and either you are installing a clincher tire on a clincher rim (1 layer of tape), or a tubeless tire on a clincher rim (2 layers of tubeless tape) or a Hookless tire on a clincher rim? The word clincher was used several times, but it was confusing, whether you were referring to clincher rims or clincher tires. How does installing tubeless, rim tape make a clincher tire, easier to install on a clincher rim? Is that the purpose of the video? Can you install a clincher tire on a tubeless rim and go tubeless and not use a tube?
I thought it was pretty clear, but I guess not to all. We are talking about using tubeless tape for CLINCHERS (clincher rims with INNER tubes). Using a thinner tape makes it easier to remove and install clinchers on clincher rims and is now the standard: Two layer of tubeless tape is thinner then the usual Velox tape which makes changing tubes and tires easier on CLINCERS. Hope that makes it clear.
Brilliant, as expected!
The only downside is the need to re-apply at least one coat after replacing a broken spoke...
I would agree, but, when was the last time you've seen a broken spoke? With todays wheels, it seems to be a rare occurrence. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed You are definitely right.
Your advice is meant for people having hard time putting on their clinchers on their road bikes, yet I do not have to struggle to put on clincher tires on my hybrid Trek FX 1 :-)
Low low-end Trek bike comes with low-end wheels whose spokes are just not tension-ed properly. Since I am a slow learner, I broke 4 spokes in one Trek FX 1, and 2 spokes in another Trek FX 1, until I reached a conclusion I should buy a spoke tension gauge and re-true the wheels myself. This indeed did the trick.
@@kottelkannim4919 Thanks for the feed back Kottel. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thank you for this
My old giant cypress has half inch rim tape covering only the inner depression of the rim. I"m debating if I should get thicker tape to cover wall for new clinchers. But my rim is differnt then this one with one inner depression that gradually goes all the way up at the sides. hmm.
The rim tape on a clincher should at least go from one inner wall to the next (need not go up the inner wall on each side as it must with tubeless tires). In your case, the tape should sufficiently cover all holes of the spoke nipples and extend a few mm up the rim sides. You can use Velox tape or 2 layers of tubeless tape. Let me know if you have further questions. Regards, Tony
Hello Tony, have you used latex tubes with tubeless rim tape? I'm gonna try 'em and read that TL tape is better than other varieties as it sticks to rim and don't moves. Also TL tape is smooth and shouldn't eat into gentle latex tube - just edges should stick to rim firmly to not allow tube go under tape. What would you suggest regarding latex tubes and rim tape combination? Thanks in advance!
I have not used latex tubes in the past 10 years or so. But I use tubeless tape for all the wheels I currently build. Once around for tubelss tires and twice around for clinchers (that would include latex tubes). The thinner tape holds up well and make tire removal and installation easier/faster whether in the shop or fixing a flat out on the road. So, by all means, I would recommend tubeless tape.
Here's a nice video on the newer TPU tubes:
ua-cam.com/video/hFX-5I1GHoI/v-deo.html
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Appreciate your speedy replay, Tony! Thanks for knowledge you are sharing, your video probably is last drop in my cup of trying TL tape. Will watch your experience with TPU tubes, too (edit: not yours, but still thanks!).
Loved your paper strip trick to figure out width of tape! That's an easy way to get it right as it's full potential probably only works when it extending right to edges (speaking of clinchers).
Fine video. Thanks Tony~! Any recommendation about which brand of tape works better for you? Cheers!
Stan's and WTB get high recommendations. However, they may not come in the width you require. Tubeless rim tape is available in a variety of sizes on Ebay. I've used the following with great success:
www.ebay.com/itm/164872740557?hash=item26632e5ecd:g:nzgAAOSwIHVgpAUV
Regard, Tony
Thanks Tony!
For anyone wondering, you will need around 3.2 m of tape for a 26" MTB wheel [if you are wrapping the tape around the wheel twice].
cheers!
JB
Why do 2 wraps for a clincher instead of one? Thanks.
Clinchers run at a high pressure, requiring two warps of tubeless tape. If you use only one wrap, the clincher tube may protrude through the spoke access hole and "blow-out" during your ride. Tubeless tires run at a much lower pressure and require only one wrap. However, there are now available tubeless rims with no access holes (but are tricky to build). See:
ua-cam.com/video/nXeZfRD-fQ4/v-deo.html
Thanks for the question. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Sir, what should I do if the pedal is hitting the metal that sustains the tire? Everytime I pedal, it hits the metal. Should I get new pedals or can I fix it in a way?
The solution for you are pedal extenders. See:
www.amazon.com/s?k=bicycle+pedal+extenders&crid=1IYRAQXCIZQEC&sprefix=bicycle+pedal+extenders%2Caps%2C193&ref=nb_sb_ss_midas-iss-sm_1_23
Regards, Tony
Hello sir, I have a problem with my hydraulic rear brake. When I press on the lever, it doesn't brake good and also it makes a really loud noise.
This began when I washed my bike with water and soap. I have done 4-5 rides after it, holding the brake, but nothing has happened. Could you help me with it? Thank you.
Sounds like contanimated disc brake pads or rotors. Here are some videos that may help you:
ua-cam.com/video/Hj9vSl2Vxns/v-deo.html&ab_channel=RidesofJapan
and
ua-cam.com/video/sMk-AiuyfYk/v-deo.html&ab_channel=GlobalMountainBikeNetwork
Regards, Tony
Hi Tony, after then can you use a normal tubeless tire ?
The rim must be tubeless ready (usually stated in the rim specifications). If you can't find the specifications, check with your local bike shop. Placing a tubeless tire on a clincher rim could lead to the tire coming off the rim while you're cycling and that could be dangerous. Thanks for the question and safe cycling, Tony
Would using tubeless rim tape help when installing a difficult tire?
It's one of several items/techniques that would help. See also:
ua-cam.com/play/PLYbCdE49qIMdOcZ9C3z5OXNPpaW7gMOxo.html
This is the level of video I have been looking for
The tape has been changed with great skill
Anything else you'd recommend install a difficult tire besides the tubeless rim tape?
The key is the right tire/rim combination. Some are extremely difficult. For clinchers 28 mm or less, you can use the EZclincher which is small enough to fit in your saddle bag. See:
ua-cam.com/video/TyvIvfhHVJU/v-deo.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
I’ve never tried that stuff but it looks like tough material, nothing like that old cotton stuff! Watching you make the hole, I was wondering if after poking the awl through if you pushed a ball bearing through from the inside if it would form a lining for the valve hole that might protect the neck of the tube. Might be too tight for the stem, but maybe worth a try?
Excellent video. Nice graphics, too!
Thanks trackie. I used a heated Phillip head screw driver to make the hole. I don't think I'd use a ball bearing because it might wind up in the space between the rim lining and the portion of the rim where the spoke protrude. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed
Good point! Like I said, never tried it!
Double wrap also helps protect latex tubes from heat if you have rim brakes.
Thanks for the tip. Regards, Tony
Awesome love it ,nice video, nice voice , great job
Thank you so much!!
Can you apply the tape without a truing stand?
Yes, although it's easiest if you can secure the wheel. One way, is to put it back on the bike, apply the tape, and then remove the wheel.
Your marked masking tape trick is cool!
I must confess - the idea of using thin plastic rim tape provokes an "allergic reaction" for me. After my last flat (during an event ride) caused by failed rim tape, I said nevermore and replaced it with Velox on both bikes.
If tight clinchers were an issue on my bikes, I think I'd look at Velocity Veloplugs. These add zero thickness under the bead area, and I'd think the weight-weenie crowd would be happy since they only add about 5g per wheel. Have you ever looked into those?
PS: I liked the "Hot Tip" pun written on your thumbnail for this video showing use of heated end on a Phillips screwdriver, literally a hot tip!
When using tubeless rim tape for clinchers, TWO layers of QAULITY tape are required. I would suggest it for those difficult tire/rim combinations to ease tire installation. Many wheel manufactures have also switched to 2 layers of tubeless tape. But, as you state, Velox tape is still the state of the art for clinchers and I still use it on my Mavic Open Pro rims and ride.
As far as rim plugs, yes, I have tried them. They work well but do indeed take up some space in the rim and do not ease tire installation. If you have a tire/rim combination that's fairly easy to remove and install the tire, rim plugs hold up well and do not wear out compared to rim tape (even Velox) which eventually wears. One should always check the wheel rim tape every time you install a new tire. When you see the tape bulge down into the spoke hole, it's time to replace the tape before it breaks.
Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Thanks, I've never tried Veloplugs myself, but was wondering if they helped.
Why don't they help with tire installation? Are the heads of those plugs so big in diameter that they actually consume space where the bead sits?
@@chuckb4375 You are correct. On the other hand, they seem to last forever.
Thank you so so much, Mr. Tony!
You bet!