I think he said in the making it podcast that this started as him wanting to show a single technique and as he went he just kept adding things to it. Like grocery shopping... You go in for one item and then "well while I'm here I might as well..." six grocery bags later. 😊
>the year is 2030 >bob releases a new video -"how to make a storage shelf for your nuclear reactor" >first 2 mins passes, bob- " i didnt show how to actually make the nuclear reactor coz i covered it in a bits video"
I'm a little late to the party, but I use that glass etching solution all the time so I have a couple tips to make it more uniform. The non-uniformity from the etching solution happens for 2 main reasons. First, the glass itself may not be perfectly clean. Layers of dust, dirt, or even just oils from your skin can weaken the effects of the etching solution in those areas. Second, the etching solution itself is not uniform. It's essentially the consistency of hand cream, but with grain-of-salt-sized crystals inside it that cause the chemical reaction which etches the glass. So if you just plop some of the solution onto a glass surface, the little crystal chunks may cause air bubbles and may cause certain areas to eat away at the glass faster than others. The first problem is pretty easy to solve, just wash the entire glass surface really well right before adding the etching solution, making sure to dry it completely with paper towels or a very clean cloth (and wearing plastic gloves would also help to keep your skin oils off.) For the second problem, what I find helps is that right after you spread on your initial coat of etching solution, go back and continue to mix up and spread around the solution on the glass for the entire 5 minutes of curing time. Since the solution itself is naturally non-uniform and full of crystals, this makes sure that every inch of the glass surface is exposed equally to both the weaker and the stronger parts of the etching solution, resulting in a MUCH more uniform etch. Now, with an area of glass that big, this etching solution will probably never give you a perfectly clean and uniform frosted look, but following these tips will definitely improve from the result in this video!
Mitchell Esposito has some good tips for the etching. There is one additional tip I would recommend to make the etching result better...wait 1 full hour for the curing time! Having done this for years, I have found that leaving the etching solution on for much longer periods of time creates a significantly more uniform etch on the exposed glass.
Really great build Bob. Even your fix on the wrong screw thing. The photography and explanations are top notch and easy to follow. Plus, your music selections are always full of cool-sauce too. Thanks Bob and Josh. You guys are the best!
Great video, Bob! Another benefit to keeping filament dry is that it won't emit any particles if it is stored below 25% RH. I found this out while working on a 3D printing research project for NASA a few years ago.
Total side note from the project. I'm finally seeing how the Bits videos work here. You're using them to keep the flow of the video but giving access to those who don't know the process; like a video hyperlink... Really clever. Great project BTW!
I'm a HS teacher and we have five 3D printers in my lab that share lots of filament. We've already purchased what we need to build this. Thanks for all you do!
Haha same I work as a glazier and in between jobs we tried the best diy etching and a paint attachment for an air compressor with glass beads works well
Hi Bob great video, you can always use 6 or 8mm dowels to repair holes that are a little too big, just drill the holes out bigger glue in the dowels clean them flush and away you go, instantly repaired! 👍🏻
This is really cool. In the future, you could have the bearings on some sort of track, so they can move left or right to accommodate rolls of different widths.
Bob here is tip for removing the backing paper of the vinyl. Put the transfer tape face down on the tale then pull the backing paper from the vinyl. It is way easier.
Love it! Maybe put a bumper in back too to protect the filament rolls from the heat source in case the cabinet cant allows them to roll back toward it.
I love how you are honest about mistakes, which we all make. When I screw up a hole, I bore it out to a tap fit for a fluted hardwood dowel, glue and hammer it into place, and try again. This is particularly effective for particle board, as the end result holds screws better. And while the etched glass is undeniably cool, I think I would leave it clear so you can see the spools better, though this might be different seeing it in person. A solution to the door closer could be an external counterweight on a pulley system. Great project, I always enjoy your stuff!
Cool video. You should try the diy sand blaster for your etching. An airgun and an upside down bottle full of media attached to the airgun. There's a ton of videos on them. I know King of Random has one. Also, I haven't read the comments yet, but I bet you are going to get trolled about those skewers. Get ready for: -You should have glued those and let them dry first. - You should have just glued a dowel in there. - Your doors gonna fall. -That better be a temporary solution. - You call yourself a maker? -I just want to nitpick this cause I can't do it. ☺️
Very cool. I need to build one of these to store the stacks of rolls of filament I have sitting under the table where I do my printing. I appreciate that you didn’t attempt to whitewash the late realization that gas struts would have been a good addition or the dissatisfaction with the etching. Keeping it real makes your videos more interesting and also helps me understand your creative process. Good news is that remaking that door with a wider frame would not be tough, especially if you decide to redo the glass. Suggestion on etching... to make the etching smoother/more consistent, move the paste around with the brush a couple of times before rinsing. Another option is to apply it with a narrow roller and then just re-roll over it a few times during the etching to refresh the etchant on the glass surface.
I think that you have one of the best instructional DIY Woodworking channels on UA-cam. Your style never changes and it always gives me confidence to give it a go. Please don’t stop! 👍
Bob, please go to amazon and buy yourself a pistol grip glass cutter with a built in oil reserve. They are so inexpensive and give such a superior cut, you'll be glad you did. I've done stained glass for years and absolutely love mine.
By ensuring a fresh air supply, you only ensure that more humidity gets inside the storage. If you don't need the space ventilated you should imo inhibit outside air entry
This is an very interesting cabinet! the product you used on the glas is so cool. Now you can do some creative stuff with glass. Thats awsome and it inspires me!
Christofix - DIY Projects rustoleum makes a frosted glass spray that works very well and gives a similar appearance- yet much easier and cleaner to apply.
Hey Bob, congrats on reaching so many people! You have made a really nice content on metal work and other stuff in past month, but I really enjoyed that you are back on wood and tech working!
Elegant looking solution and I like the design on the glass door. Thanks for ownng your mistake on the size of the drill bit and keyhole direction, helps me keep my perfectionist tendencies in check
After recently acquiring a router with a box of bits, I did see the keyhole router bit in the box and wondered how to use it. Thanks for the clip of you using it, as it shows exactly how to use said bit. ;)
cool video..ill add something...i live in Hawaii and used to build and remodel houses......instead of using the bamboo skewers for screw holes can just use chop sticks and glue..i always kept a stack of those handy
Hi Bob! I work with glass in all manner of form and manufacture, and if you would like I can offer you some tips? Often etched glass is difficult to do by hand, however there are etching solutions which can be applied through either HVLP or LVLP guns. This gives you a much more uniform result however imperfections still occur. On the flip side sandblasting is often the best choice for a satin look as the penetration also allows for variables on shadows or "3D" effect when done correctly. Also when laying vinyl on glass, if you're not confident then then soap and water trick is best however with experience it is much more efficient to apply the vinyl straight to the glass, and save the weeding till after it has been applied. Any other information I can help you with in relation to glass I'd be more than willing to help! Love your videos and they really inspire me to design and create!
I've gotta say, as someone just getting started with making I really appreciate videos like this, and especially the bits videos! Keep up the awesome videos!
One idea for the feeding holes. Take an old pneumatic coupler and drill a hole in the wood and screw the coupler in. Than you can use an old PTFE tube to feed the filament without introducing moisture. And have the ability to remove it if it gets in the way.
Ive never had luck with that etching solution. I know tons of people have but I always get those same squiggly lines. Ive used rollers, foam brushes, hair brushes, and rags/paper towels. Always the same issues. Thats why I started sand blasting all my glass. Sure it take a bit more work but the results are always uniform and crisp.
As a substitute for the etched glass, you could try palm sanding polycarb sheets for a frosted look. Palm Sanding it allows you to manually adjust how much and where you are "frosting" the polycarb. Cabinet looks fantastic no matter what though, great job
Bamboo Skewers to save the day... Just when I would of called the project firewood and started over.. brilliant, definitely putting that trick in my arsenal
Great project Bob, need to build one of these for myself... just a thought re the gas strip to hold door open. Attach a short bungie/elastic diagonally to the left side (bottom of door and top-back of side). If you get the tension right then it will work to hold the door closed and also hold it open once you pass the pivot point...
From a woodworking perspective the shallow keyholes with the sink head screws are a terrible solution for holding much weight. You could have screwed it right onto the wall. For stability and already everything set up, you could have cut the dado in the rear piece as well, but I guess it's fine the way it is. Also a rabbet in the top edge had allowed for the shelf and the top to be exactly the same length (for those who are always a tiny bit off 😉) All in all a nice built.
Hey Bob, with armour etch, I find you have to leave it on for awhile, 20 minutes usually. And swirl it every 5 minutes, so you changed the brush stroke marks where it was thinner. It comes out more uniform. For large pieces and and etched works much better, but watch your vinyl for blow out. Great job!
Great video as always! One little advice. masonry bits work way better when used with a hammer drill and not a normal one because they do not really cut the material like a brad point drill. They are meant to break away tiny bits of masonry with every stroke.
For ventilation, how about put a computer fan where you put the air holes? I have my dust collection and compressor in a small "closet-like" shed and it has to be soundproof so no gaps. To keep air moving in the closet I installed two computer fans one for incoming and the opposite one exiting. It's powered by a small solar panel on the roof. Just my two cents. Thanks!! ~Dolly
Oh yes it was really usefull for me to buy some wood planks and make an usefull storage for my filament even if I DON'T HAVE 3D PRINTING MACHINE THANKS YOU AGAIN
Bob, since you already have the vinyl cutter (plotter), just purchase some glass etch vinyl. Takes the same amount of time as it took you to add the blue vinyl stencils and looks perfectly uniform!
To hold it open maybe you could install drawer slides on the inside upper corners, attach a piece of wood to 'em and when you open the cabinet pull out the drawer slides. The wood attached to the slides would act like a buffer against the wood of the door.
Quick tip, if you use the other end of the glass cutter from the underside of the scored line and gently tap along the line the glass breaks like butter
Bob, I love your channel so much. Your videos are amazing and so intriguing. I started woodworking in school and used some of your tips for my projects!
Excellent work, Bob! In my experience, uneven etching can usually be solved by just using more of the solution. Seriously, just cake it on. The stuff is cheap, and it'll be better overall.
I really like the filament pass through, that's a great idea. Just a thought about the etching, it's kinda tough to get an even etch on large surfaces with Armor Etch. An alternative would be to apply the vinyl mask and use some frosted glass spray paint. Or they do make an "etched Glass" looking vinyl as well. Could be useful if someone wanted to go with plexi or acrylic instead. Just some ideas though. Thanks for the content and inspiration, ILTMS is always one of my go to channels.
When using armor etch, I usually agitate the chemical at the 2.5 minute mark (give or take) by swirling it with the brush then resmothing it out. Helps prevent the streaking it leaves on large etches like this one. Never done one quite this large though
Even though this project and some of the others you have done in the past are probably ones I would never have a reason to make, I still enjoy watching these are seeing the process that goes into making them. :D
Each spool of filament is a different width. I think it would be better if you made the distance between eachl roller bearing adjustable or make long roller roller bars between the bearings so any width spool will fit. Great video by the way.
For those that may not know or might not be comfortable with chemical etching, they do make an aerosol frosting spray that produces a similar result. I've had really good luck with it on a few different glass projects in the past. It can be found at most home improvement and craft stores.
That etching solution is not made for larger coverage areas. Using abrasive media in a sandblaster would provide a deeper, more uniform etch over that much area. It may be a good idea to add a silicone bead around the edges of the glass since the heating element will cause wood movement and the fasteners could eventually work loose. Have you considered using two long roller bars across the bottom of the cabinet instead of gluing the printed bearing rollers in place? Two long roller bars would be a more universal way to accommodate changing sizes in the spools.
Wow! It came out great bob and josh! I’ve used the spray can version of frosted glass and I got pretty good results from it. Just a suggestion for next time you guys are frosting glass.
The temperature has settled to 87 degrees F (30.6 C) and 30% relative humidity inside. FIRST!
I was the fifth viewer and your comment was two weeks ago :O
@@lavachemist yeah I'm confused to
@@oscargalaz4405 I'm not confused :D. They uploaded the file two weeks ago and it was hidden until today.
@@lavachemist oooh ok
The video is probably released to patreon supporters first.
So many making mediums, this, is why I tune in every week. So much Variety thanks Bob and team!!
And there’s always cool music too
A Glimpse Inside same.
I think he said in the making it podcast that this started as him wanting to show a single technique and as he went he just kept adding things to it. Like grocery shopping... You go in for one item and then "well while I'm here I might as well..." six grocery bags later. 😊
Love the subtle "which are available in the store" reference. Great as always Bob!
Yep, I'm going to order my set of stickers/spacer tool for my shop later today!
>the year is 2030
>bob releases a new video -"how to make a storage shelf for your nuclear reactor"
>first 2 mins passes, bob- " i didnt show how to actually make the nuclear reactor coz i covered it in a bits video"
KAVI dis funy
I'm a little late to the party, but I use that glass etching solution all the time so I have a couple tips to make it more uniform.
The non-uniformity from the etching solution happens for 2 main reasons. First, the glass itself may not be perfectly clean. Layers of dust, dirt, or even just oils from your skin can weaken the effects of the etching solution in those areas. Second, the etching solution itself is not uniform. It's essentially the consistency of hand cream, but with grain-of-salt-sized crystals inside it that cause the chemical reaction which etches the glass. So if you just plop some of the solution onto a glass surface, the little crystal chunks may cause air bubbles and may cause certain areas to eat away at the glass faster than others.
The first problem is pretty easy to solve, just wash the entire glass surface really well right before adding the etching solution, making sure to dry it completely with paper towels or a very clean cloth (and wearing plastic gloves would also help to keep your skin oils off.)
For the second problem, what I find helps is that right after you spread on your initial coat of etching solution, go back and continue to mix up and spread around the solution on the glass for the entire 5 minutes of curing time. Since the solution itself is naturally non-uniform and full of crystals, this makes sure that every inch of the glass surface is exposed equally to both the weaker and the stronger parts of the etching solution, resulting in a MUCH more uniform etch.
Now, with an area of glass that big, this etching solution will probably never give you a perfectly clean and uniform frosted look, but following these tips will definitely improve from the result in this video!
Mitchell Esposito has some good tips for the etching. There is one additional tip I would recommend to make the etching result better...wait 1 full hour for the curing time! Having done this for years, I have found that leaving the etching solution on for much longer periods of time creates a significantly more uniform etch on the exposed glass.
Really great build Bob.
Even your fix on the wrong screw thing. The photography and explanations are top notch and easy to follow.
Plus, your music selections are always full of cool-sauce too.
Thanks Bob and Josh.
You guys are the best!
Eric Rusch Sr 🙌
Great video, Bob!
Another benefit to keeping filament dry is that it won't emit any particles if it is stored below 25% RH. I found this out while working on a 3D printing research project for NASA a few years ago.
Total side note from the project. I'm finally seeing how the Bits videos work here. You're using them to keep the flow of the video but giving access to those who don't know the process; like a video hyperlink... Really clever.
Great project BTW!
Someone gets it!
I'm a HS teacher and we have five 3D printers in my lab that share lots of filament. We've already purchased what we need to build this. Thanks for all you do!
Nice, good luck!
Back in the day, we used to use a cheap sandblaster to etch glass.
Usually sandbox sand is doable for the sandblaster.
Haha same I work as a glazier and in between jobs we tried the best diy etching and a paint attachment for an air compressor with glass beads works well
I love when you show your mistakes and work-arounds to fix them. Great work!
Hi Bob great video, you can always use 6 or 8mm dowels to repair holes that are a little too big, just drill the holes out bigger glue in the dowels clean them flush and away you go, instantly repaired! 👍🏻
Nice video. I appreciate that you show the mistakes and forbils that happen along the way, and how they can be corrected.
I'm impressed that it's not just for storage, but can be used to feed the printers below it as well! That's great inspiration for building one!
This is really cool.
In the future, you could have the bearings on some sort of track, so they can move left or right to accommodate rolls of different widths.
this was a huge oversight, great tip
I like the filament rollers which avoid the need for a spoolholder!
Bob here is tip for removing the backing paper of the vinyl. Put the transfer tape face down on the tale then pull the backing paper from the vinyl. It is way easier.
Really cool all of the little touches you put on it.
Love it! Maybe put a bumper in back too to protect the filament rolls from the heat source in case the cabinet cant allows them to roll back toward it.
Cool project with some neat design ideas. I like the touch at the end were the 3D printer is printing while you walk us through the final product.
Put the gas strut on the outside. You could get creative with it and make it, industrial looking. Just a thought.
I love how you are honest about mistakes, which we all make. When I screw up a hole, I bore it out to a tap fit for a fluted hardwood dowel, glue and hammer it into place, and try again. This is particularly effective for particle board, as the end result holds screws better.
And while the etched glass is undeniably cool, I think I would leave it clear so you can see the spools better, though this might be different seeing it in person. A solution to the door closer could be an external counterweight on a pulley system.
Great project, I always enjoy your stuff!
Cool video. You should try the diy sand blaster for your etching. An airgun and an upside down bottle full of media attached to the airgun. There's a ton of videos on them. I know King of Random has one.
Also, I haven't read the comments yet, but I bet you are going to get trolled about those skewers. Get ready for:
-You should have glued those and let them dry first.
- You should have just glued a dowel in there.
- Your doors gonna fall.
-That better be a temporary solution.
- You call yourself a maker?
-I just want to nitpick this cause I can't do it.
☺️
Don't worry Bob, I stumble over "bamboo skewers" all the time. Also that storage box is way cooler than the one we made at my house. =)
That drill attachment is awesome.....and for the glass etching maybe try a medium or small paint roller instead of a paint brush
Very cool. I need to build one of these to store the stacks of rolls of filament I have sitting under the table where I do my printing. I appreciate that you didn’t attempt to whitewash the late realization that gas struts would have been a good addition or the dissatisfaction with the etching. Keeping it real makes your videos more interesting and also helps me understand your creative process. Good news is that remaking that door with a wider frame would not be tough, especially if you decide to redo the glass.
Suggestion on etching... to make the etching smoother/more consistent, move the paste around with the brush a couple of times before rinsing. Another option is to apply it with a narrow roller and then just re-roll over it a few times during the etching to refresh the etchant on the glass surface.
I think that you have one of the best instructional DIY Woodworking channels on UA-cam. Your style never changes and it always gives me confidence to give it a go. Please don’t stop! 👍
Bob, please go to amazon and buy yourself a pistol grip glass cutter with a built in oil reserve. They are so inexpensive and give such a superior cut, you'll be glad you did. I've done stained glass for years and absolutely love mine.
This channel will never get old. Bob builds something new every week. Bob the builder indeed.
Whoa, I love everything about this. Glad you decided to make the video about more than just a frosted glass window!
Wow, there was A LOT of good information in this video, even if what you want to build isn't this exact product! Great job team make stuff!
By ensuring a fresh air supply, you only ensure that more humidity gets inside the storage. If you don't need the space ventilated you should imo inhibit outside air entry
I just learned how to do etched glass on glass cups before this video and it is one of the best things ever
This is an very interesting cabinet! the product you used on the glas is so cool. Now you can do some creative stuff with glass. Thats awsome and it inspires me!
Christofix - DIY Projects rustoleum makes a frosted glass spray that works very well and gives a similar appearance- yet much easier and cleaner to apply.
Is there anything Bob can’t do? I love how much of a DIY type of person he his
I like your outdoor builds, full of nature and greenery.
If you want more uniform etching, try a sandblaster, they work great
Love anything you upload mate, much love from the UK.
Hey Bob, congrats on reaching so many people!
You have made a really nice content on metal work and other stuff in past month, but I really enjoyed that you are back on wood and tech working!
Elegant looking solution and I like the design on the glass door. Thanks for ownng your mistake on the size of the drill bit and keyhole direction, helps me keep my perfectionist tendencies in check
After recently acquiring a router with a box of bits, I did see the keyhole router bit in the box and wondered how to use it.
Thanks for the clip of you using it, as it shows exactly how to use said bit. ;)
cool video..ill add something...i live in Hawaii and used to build and remodel houses......instead of using the bamboo skewers for screw holes can just use chop sticks and glue..i always kept a stack of those handy
Hi Bob! I work with glass in all manner of form and manufacture, and if you would like I can offer you some tips? Often etched glass is difficult to do by hand, however there are etching solutions which can be applied through either HVLP or LVLP guns. This gives you a much more uniform result however imperfections still occur. On the flip side sandblasting is often the best choice for a satin look as the penetration also allows for variables on shadows or "3D" effect when done correctly. Also when laying vinyl on glass, if you're not confident then then soap and water trick is best however with experience it is much more efficient to apply the vinyl straight to the glass, and save the weeding till after it has been applied. Any other information I can help you with in relation to glass I'd be more than willing to help! Love your videos and they really inspire me to design and create!
Thumbs up if you want to see Bob clean his whole shop!!!!
Keep up the good work Bob loving your videos
Good Job Team
The holes from the shelf pin jig are perfect for use with euro screws. The holes in the hinges are also made for those, that's why they are so big.
I've gotta say, as someone just getting started with making I really appreciate videos like this, and especially the bits videos! Keep up the awesome videos!
Thanks! I'm glad they are helpful!
One idea for the feeding holes. Take an old pneumatic coupler and drill a hole in the wood and screw the coupler in. Than you can use an old PTFE tube to feed the filament without introducing moisture. And have the ability to remove it if it gets in the way.
i love your videos i watch them every day
You could 3D print a flip out kickstand to hold the door up.
Ive never had luck with that etching solution. I know tons of people have but I always get those same squiggly lines. Ive used rollers, foam brushes, hair brushes, and rags/paper towels. Always the same issues. Thats why I started sand blasting all my glass. Sure it take a bit more work but the results are always uniform and crisp.
Those bearing things are awesome! Very clever.
As a substitute for the etched glass, you could try palm sanding polycarb sheets for a frosted look. Palm Sanding it allows you to manually adjust how much and where you are "frosting" the polycarb. Cabinet looks fantastic no matter what though, great job
Very true, good alternative.
@@Iliketomakestuff Same works for glass, too. Just use fine (800 grit or higher) sandpaper.
Bamboo Skewers to save the day... Just when I would of called the project firewood and started over.. brilliant, definitely putting that trick in my arsenal
Great project Bob, need to build one of these for myself... just a thought re the gas strip to hold door open. Attach a short bungie/elastic diagonally to the left side (bottom of door and top-back of side). If you get the tension right then it will work to hold the door closed and also hold it open once you pass the pivot point...
Hi I'm Eric and I like to watch people make stuff.
From a woodworking perspective the shallow keyholes with the sink head screws are a terrible solution for holding much weight. You could have screwed it right onto the wall.
For stability and already everything set up, you could have cut the dado in the rear piece as well, but I guess it's fine the way it is. Also a rabbet in the top edge had allowed for the shelf and the top to be exactly the same length (for those who are always a tiny bit off 😉)
All in all a nice built.
Hey Bob, with armour etch, I find you have to leave it on for awhile, 20 minutes usually. And swirl it every 5 minutes, so you changed the brush stroke marks where it was thinner. It comes out more uniform. For large pieces and and etched works much better, but watch your vinyl for blow out. Great job!
i love the bendable screwdriver extension bit thingy
Great video as always! One little advice. masonry bits work way better when used with a hammer drill and not a normal one because they do not really cut the material like a brad point drill. They are meant to break away tiny bits of masonry with every stroke.
Can't wait to put my 3D printer to work hard this summer. Great video as always, Bob.
You could use a mechanical brace that swings down and locks in place as you open the case. And you'd have to unhook it to close the case.
For ventilation, how about put a computer fan where you put the air holes? I have my dust collection and compressor in a small "closet-like" shed and it has to be soundproof so no gaps. To keep air moving in the closet I installed two computer fans one for incoming and the opposite one exiting. It's powered by a small solar panel on the roof. Just my two cents. Thanks!! ~Dolly
I learned about the Dado and Keyhole bit!
A video from you on my birthday = Awesome! Thanks Bob!
Oh yes it was really usefull for me to buy some wood planks and make an usefull storage for my filament even if I DON'T HAVE 3D PRINTING MACHINE THANKS YOU AGAIN
You could always put a brace inside that pivots from the bottom to hold the glass window open.
For all of the time in my youth I spent watching new Yankee workshop, this old house, Bob Vila, etc. I never knew what a dado looked like.
Bob, since you already have the vinyl cutter (plotter), just purchase some glass etch vinyl. Takes the same amount of time as it took you to add the blue vinyl stencils and looks perfectly uniform!
Nice one Bob. Very informative. Glad you decided on including the whole build and not just the etching
To hold it open maybe you could install drawer slides on the inside upper corners, attach a piece of wood to 'em and when you open the cabinet pull out the drawer slides. The wood attached to the slides would act like a buffer against the wood of the door.
Quick tip, if you use the other end of the glass cutter from the underside of the scored line and gently tap along the line the glass breaks like butter
Imagine having Bob as your dad, a guy can dream right :)
Bob, I love your channel so much. Your videos are amazing and so intriguing. I started woodworking in school and used some of your tips for my projects!
The glass etching is a very nice touch!
Very Cool process on making a Filament storage cabinet Sir
How in the world do you produce this much content? I must consume all of it. Love your videos!
Nathan Lee teamwork 😁
Bob. I bought some stickers to do this but they where so awesome that I couldn’t resist putting them on my sticker board
The timing of this could not have been better! Thanks guys!
This is one of the best videos I've ever seen on UA-cam!
You can also sand blast the glass with the vinyl on, then peel it off to get an even coverage.
Hell yeah, perfect timing. I've been tossing around some ideas for filament rolls in my head lately!
We've got plans available in the description if you're interested.
just starting with 3D printing and i can see this being very useful, great video!
Excellent work, Bob! In my experience, uneven etching can usually be solved by just using more of the solution. Seriously, just cake it on. The stuff is cheap, and it'll be better overall.
Getting my first 3D printer soon! some inspiration is always nice. might make this, nice work! :)
Great project team ILTMS! So many applications for this beyond 3d printing.
2.5 million! Congrats!🎉🎊🍾
You have ALL the toys... I have to admit, I am jealous! haha Great Stuff!!!
I really like the filament pass through, that's a great idea. Just a thought about the etching, it's kinda tough to get an even etch on large surfaces with Armor Etch. An alternative would be to apply the vinyl mask and use some frosted glass spray paint. Or they do make an "etched Glass" looking vinyl as well. Could be useful if someone wanted to go with plexi or acrylic instead. Just some ideas though. Thanks for the content and inspiration, ILTMS is always one of my go to channels.
When using armor etch, I usually agitate the chemical at the 2.5 minute mark (give or take) by swirling it with the brush then resmothing it out. Helps prevent the streaking it leaves on large etches like this one. Never done one quite this large though
That shelf be drippin’, glad you took care to stop the droopin’.
Its the first storage box I like! Thank you, so I have a project for the next weekend 😁
A tenoning jig works really well for half laps too. You also don't get the ridges so the two faces sit perfectly flat to each other
For the glass you could just use frosted vinyl with your design cut out.
Even though this project and some of the others you have done in the past are probably ones I would never have a reason to make, I still enjoy watching these are seeing the process that goes into making them. :D
Thanks!
Each spool of filament is a different width. I think it would be better if you made the distance between eachl roller bearing adjustable or make long roller roller bars between the bearings so any width spool will fit. Great video by the way.
For those that may not know or might not be comfortable with chemical etching, they do make an aerosol frosting spray that produces a similar result. I've had really good luck with it on a few different glass projects in the past. It can be found at most home improvement and craft stores.
That etching solution is not made for larger coverage areas. Using abrasive media in a sandblaster would provide a deeper, more uniform etch over that much area.
It may be a good idea to add a silicone bead around the edges of the glass since the heating element will cause wood movement and the fasteners could eventually work loose.
Have you considered using two long roller bars across the bottom of the cabinet instead of gluing the printed bearing rollers in place? Two long roller bars would be a more universal way to accommodate changing sizes in the spools.
Wow! It came out great bob and josh! I’ve used the spray can version of frosted glass and I got pretty good results from it. Just a suggestion for next time you guys are frosting glass.