How To Wire A Garmin LiveScope And Graph (Proper Battery Power)
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- Опубліковано 3 лют 2022
- The Garmin LiveScope demands a lot of power from your boats batteries. It's important to have ample amp hours. Another important thing to consider is the gauge of wire. Using a heavy gauge wire is super important when wiring a Garmin LiveScope, Graph and fish finder. I talk about how to select the proper gauge wire, finding a battery with enough amp hours to support your electronics and using a fuse block to tie it all together. Weather it's Garmin LiveScope, Lowrance Active Target or Humminbird Mega Live, proper wiring to your graph is key to having a good clean image on your jon boat or bass boat!
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• How To Wire A Garmin L...
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This is the best installation video for livescope I've seen. I will definitely install a separate battery.
Thanks for the feedback. Glad the video was helpful
Been researching this type info for a year now and just about finished up with my boat rebuild including all new Garmin electronics + Livescope. You covered topics I haven't heard others talk about and explained them perfectly! Thank you so much... great job!
You're welcome. Congrats on the new boat build. It's a lot of work but feels good to make it your own.
Love the fishing videos, but these types of videos are great. And incredibly helpful. Learn a lot from this, thanks.
Thanks Richard!
This video has perfect timing, I am looking at getting a set up for my boat, thank you for all the info!
Cool. You're welcome bro! What boat do you have?
@@TheTinHorseMonty I have a clackacraft WF-16 drift boat, I use it for multi purpose use, river floating and trolling, lake trolling, etc
Thank you for the great video. I’m mid install and this has helped a lot.
Awesome. Glad it helped and good luck with the rest of the installation. Appreciate the comment.
Appreciate your videos, I went and bought the same setup yesterday. Great content man, keep grinding the subs will come I’m sure!
Appreciate it Andrew!
That is great, having it's own wires is the way to go. I have a 96 javelin 389 and am going to run the same type set up once we get thawed out.
Right on Right on! Let me know how it works out!
Great job on all your very informative videos and post. Very glad I learn something new everyday
Thanks Johnny. Appreciate you checking them out.
Thanks for the great description!
You are welcome Nathan. Thanks for checking out the video. Hope it was useful.
Thanks for posting the vids....I'm getting ready to bite off 2,500.00 for the livescope and this stuff gives me good info on the install.
You are welcome. It's a lot of $$$ but it's amazing to be able to see all that's going on under the water. Good luck and thanks for checking out the video.
Great info, 8 gauge for sure . I put a switch to kill the black box up front. I turn it off when I pull the trolling motor up, so it's never pulling juice when I'm running the big motor.
Great idea man.
Excellent job researching and making sure you use the correct gauge wire. If to thin you are creating more resistance for the flow of current which will cause it to get hot and melt or even cause a fire. Even a size bigger isnt bad as it will not effect anything, just dont go smaller. Makes me smile when I see people doing stuff like this right 😁!
Thanks Cody. Probably overdid it but, like you said, it won't hurt a thing🤘
When that battery dies from time, I would look at the Ampted Outdoors lithium. I have the 30 AH and can pick it up with my pinky. I have fished on that for 2.5 days without a charge. It will save you about 50 pounds in your boat and cost about $200.00. I had mine on the starting battery and got to a point to where by 11 I would be fishing with my motor running during a tournament because I had to get jumped off. You will like the LS man. Make sure to do the update that just came out for the 1022. It is amazing.
Thanks for the tip. I watched your video. Good job. I'll go lithium next time. I did the update yesterday. Pretty sweet.
thanks for the help . I just purchased 93 sv with live scope.
Sweet Hope you enjoy it Patrick. Lots of fun.
This is fantastic info! Thank you
Welcome and thanks
Excellent job. I did mine almost exactly the same way, but I used 10ga wire since my run wasn't quite 15'. I terminated the fuse block about midway in my starboard rod locker on my Z18 which made the run about 14'. I was also able to get tinned copper wire in 10ga a little cheaper than 8ga. One critique on your installation I'll make is you limited your access to the fuse block and to the GL10. If you have to replace a fuse, or monitor your indicator lights on the GL10, you're going to have to take the boat apart. If this happens on the water, which it will of course, you're screwed. I am running the fuse block off the cranking battery, which also powers all the other vessel's systems. It's not ideal, but the Merc 4 stroke charges that battery quite efficiently. I'm holding out for a LiPO battery, but in the meantime I may just get another flooded deep cycle battery to run the electronics. I am running three Elite-9 Ti2's, a 93SV and the GL10 all on the dedicated circuit. I was saving the last port on the fuse block for an NMEA 2000 network, but I just learned that it isn't going to help me. Again, great job on the video!
Thanks Neil! I agree on the less than ideal placement of the fuse block n GL 10. I have 6 screws on my TM pan that I will have to remove to access it. I really didn't have anywhere else to put it. Tin boats have limited real-estate. Sounds like your set up is working great. I've been thinking lithium but $$$. Someday!
Where did you mount your GL 10 at in your Z18?
It's always interesting to see modifications made, and boat builds are right up there with car builds, but I'm still waiting to see someone paint flames on their boat, haha.
Flames would make my boat look faster. I'll check into that!!!😎
Definitely the right way for wire size and the on/off switch
So far It's working great!
Thanks for posting, interesting .
Thanks Jerry!
Great information nice video
Thanks Malcom. Hope it helps and tight lines!
Thumbs up all the way!
Thanks Bro!
Are you sure that you weren't an engineer in a previous life? Great video! 👍
LOL I think I was a hermit.
Clean, lookn good 👍
Thanks Ray!
Think your covered!
🤘
Love the details! Did you connect the NEMA power wires? I'm not connecting these to another unit but wondering if these power wires need to be connected at all.
Nope. I just roll them back and black tape them.
Hi, saw your video. Was wondering what size blade fuses did you use for your graph and black box into your black box. I can’t seem to find it in the manuals. I’m doing a similar set up as you have.
Thanks
Sorry for the late reply. The graphs take a 3 amp fuse. The black box calls for a 7.5 amp fuse. Hope this helps.
Amp hours are measured down to 10.5 volts. Your unit requires 12 volts to operate properly. I run 3 - 12 inch Humminbird’s and 360 plus 1022 Garmin livescope.A regular 27 or 31 series battery will be done for in 5 to 6 hours. Switched to Lithium Pro’s 132 , runs all electronics, live well, stereo and the Merc. Weighs 38 lbs and took the place of 2 series 31 marine batteries.
Dropping science! Appreciate it. Good talking with you!
Where is that video on your diy mount cant seem to find it....much appreciated
studio.ua-cam.com/users/videoDXxuFs6lHRY/edit I think this is the one Steve.
I know Hot and Ground.I was just wondering about the little ground connector on back of the graph and the black box.Its a little silver metal connector with no wire in it.
Would this apply to setups done in a portable containers? Where the splice for power lines are a couple of feet?
No I think you could go with 10 G on a short run. Maybe even 12. Garmin website should have a recommendation
I have an 18v Milwaukee batt in the front of my boat with NO wiring. My power cables go from black box and unit straight to batt. No problems.
I tought about that and have heard it's a great option. Glad it's working for you. A lot less weight than my set up.
"Making Math Fun with Gabe" on the next episode :)
😎😎💪
I NEED TO KNOW HOW TO WIRE MY LIVESCOPE....WHAT WIRE GOES WHERE....I STILL DO NOT KNOW HOW TO WIRE IT. WHAT IS THE BLUE OR GRAY FOR AND WHAT IS THE BROWN WIRE FOR
How do you determine what size fuse to put on the fuse block? I want to add one for my 2, 9 inch garmin and the black box
I believe the black box (GLS !0) requires a 7.5 A fuse and most graphs require a 3 A fuse. Check the Garmin website to verify.
Here’s what I don’t understand. If someone puts an online fuse less than 18 inches from the battery, doesn’t that severely limit the amount of power coming up? My mind can’t comprehend why use 8 gauge if we use little bitty wires on an in line fuse. Didn’t we lose our power and what is left now the 8 gauge carries to graph? Wouldn’t that fuze box you had be better for amps???
You can use the smaller wire when closer to the power source because the whole reason the size of wire matters is when you’re talking about length. Minus power going through the wire obviously. so the longer the distance the wires is the bigger you want your wire within reasonable size. Because energy will get lost as it travels through a smaller wire more vs a bigger wire. that’s why it’s okay to run small wire inline fuses when it’s close if not directly connected to the power supply
Is it okay to mount the black box beside a battery? Or would that cause to much interference?
I honestly don't think it's a problem. I have not heard of it being an issue. Maybe call Russel Marine or the Bass Tank and ask just to be sure.
I have two batteries wired in series. Starting and trolling motor. One has 1000 marine cranking amps with 180 reserve. The other one 685 CA with 140 reserve. Would that be enough for the LS too
Appreciate the comment Flint. You’ll need a separate battery for LiveScope. It really sucks the juice. Some folks use a 20-30 amp lithium dedicated to LiveScope.
for my 1022 and livescope.. I pull about 2.5 amps for my settings :)
OK. Good to know. I've had my LiveScope and 1022 out a few times and the battery I have has plenty of power left at the end of the day. Thanks.
Yeah, you should be able to go a few days without a charge with your battery. I run a 48Ah battery and I've gone 20 hours of use without a charge.
@@seewhyem Cool.
Could you plug a garmin echo map into the same fuse block using the same 8 gauge wire. Or should I use a separate 8 gauge wire for it?
You'll be fine running 2 graphs off of one feed.
Brushing up before I finish my install
🤘
Any reason you didn’t use a relay on the livescope power line and trigger it with a toggle switch from the helm or somewhere convenient? This would eliminate the switch at the bilge and allow you to isolate the lower current circuits for the depth finders while ensuring better current flow to the live scope.
I have my master switches ran to the back of the boat. When I open the vent on my gas tank, put the plug in and turn on my main power I just turn on the LiveScope power. It's all in the back of the boat.
Black box draws less than 1a. Nice wiring but Lithium batteries are the way to go these days with multiple large screens.
Thanks. I bought a lithium because my lead acid couldn't handle it. I agree. Lithium is the way to go.
what was the determining factor getting the 1022 over the 93sv ?
Andy just getting the biggest graph I could afford.
We’re do you get the fuses small to use with garmin fish finder
Auto parts store
Is your graph powered by the fuse block? If so, why have it doubled fused (inline and on block)? Why not just cut it off and rely on the fuse on the block?
You’re exactly right. It’s overkill n not necessary.
so do you have your fish finders directly to the battery or to the fuse block? i have a battery i used for my trolling motor in my little boat i may just use it for my black box and fish finders
I have my Garmin 1022 and the LiveScope black box ran to the fuse block. The fuse block runs to a switch. The switch runs to the battery. I fried the lead acid battery in this video after 6 months. I went to a lithium. Pricey but well worth it.
@@TheTinHorseMonty so turn the swtich on and run everything swtich isnt just directly for the black box huh
@@cd1982 Yes. Switch is for graph n box. Saves you from having to run 4 runs of wire to the battery unless you want to do it that way.
I to just recently got the garmin livescope and two echomap uhd 93sv (currently not networked). One in the front connected to livescope (trolling motor transducer), one at console with transducer on transom. Have not had it out on the water yet. I have been searching for some answers to my questions as a new user; Maybe you or someone can help me and others?
1. Can I run my units out of the water (at home) without hurting anything? And is there a specific process to follow? Like disconnect transducer from unit, etc…
2. Software and Maps and updating: how can you find current versions installed? Are updates for software and maps together or separate installs? …Referencing back to #1.; Can I install updates at home with boat out of the water. What is the safest way to update your units ?
Thanks Everyone…. Good stuff…
Yes you can run units out of water but if you are going to have the LiveScope out of the water for more than 10 minutes in the hot summer sun I would power it down. The black box can get hot. The best way to update is by using the Active Captain App on your phone. There are several videos on UA-cam that explain the process of software updates using Active Captain. You can install updayes at home or on the water as long as you have a good cel or WiFi signal. You can go to the Garmin website and find available updates for your unit. Not sure how to find out what mapping system you have installed. It's probably listed in the chart section on your graph somewhere. Hope this helps.
So do you run 8 gauge wire also for the ground wire? And then to power the main unit do you just run the power wire directly to the battery, or do you run it to the same fuse box, or is the fuse box just to run the live scope box? If you do run it back to the battery, what gauge wirer do you use?
Yes I ran 8 gauge wire for the power and ground. I ran it from the battery to the fuse block. The power wire and ground from the graph and LiveScope box ran straight to the fuse block. If you don't use a fuse block you can run wire from the battery directly to the graph and directly to the LiveScope box. You'll just have to splice n join together. The fuse block eliminates having to run 2 power wires and 2 ground wires from the battery. Run 1 set to the block and jump off that. Hope this makes sense.
@@TheTinHorseMonty where can I find that fuse box, do you have a link to where I can pick one up? Thanks.
@@phillybasszilla3967 www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5025-Blade/dp/B000THQ0CQ/ref=sxin_14_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?cv_ct_cx=blue%2Bsea%2Bfuse%2Bblock&keywords=blue%2Bsea%2Bfuse%2Bblock&pd_rd_i=B000THQ0CQ&pd_rd_r=edbd8568-b2cf-4f1e-95fe-9aa0f2a7cb4c&pd_rd_w=oTUOW&pd_rd_wg=NTaqw&pf_rd_p=937f515b-f21e-48f6-8cfd-8695fa84b7c5&pf_rd_r=8JKZJV6299N51568BZ6N&qid=1650248654&sr=1-1-a73d1c8c-2fd2-4f19-aa41-2df022bcb241-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyRVhBVzhJWUdHWUZUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTAxNTAxMVU3UURNR1JXMVlLUCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjc2Njk5UkUwRUxaSktBMFBYJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3Bfc2VhcmNoX3RoZW1hdGljJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1
@@TheTinHorseMonty thank you, do you run a on of switch at the battery also? And do you also run a fuse within about 8" from the battery? If so what size fuse do you recommend? I will be running two graphs off the fuse box. If you done run a on off switch, do you have one that you recommend? Sorry for all the questions, but this is all new to me. Thanks.
@@TheTinHorseMonty I see you do run a on off switch, do you have the link for that also? Thanks.
Why can’t you just cut off the yellow inline fuse and run the wire to the fuse panel and use that fuse?
You can
I done all that stuff when l upgraded all my electronics but when you hook up your stuff it’s got these little bitty size 18 gauge wire 😂😂 it kind of makes you shake your head 😂😂
LOL I know. Makes no sense!!!!!
Another thing to remember fellas, you only get to use 20 percent of what ever number is on your battery. That number gets you to 12 volts. When your units start acting weird, bingo. Also the volt reading on Humminbird is plus or minus 1 volt calibration. Meaning it could be reading 12 volts and actually be down to 11.
Thanks Doug. Appreciate the insight!
I was told to run 6 gauge wire to avoid any issues, I hope that's true
With 6 gauge you will have absolutely no power issues. That's some heavy stuff. What length is your boat and how long of a wire run?
I have bought the live target and am doing the research to install it in my boat with the same setup that you did. Already bought the same gauge wire, fuse block and switch that you installed. My question is do you really need the fuse on the power cord since since it is going to a fuse on the fuse block? Seems like there are 2 fuses on the same wire.
You're going to love Active Target. No, one fuse is fine. 2 is kind of overkill.
You didn't show how you wired the graph???
Sorry about that. It's just a hot and ground.
Do U have the LVS32 or 34?
LVS32. They released the LVS34 about a month after I bought LiveScope. UGH!!!
@@TheTinHorseMonty that’s how my luck usually goes.
@@jameskarr5550 Same here. I can't cough up another 1200 for the latest and greatest. I like what I have and I'ts a valuable tool.
@@TheTinHorseMonty I hear ya, livescope is expensive.
Is it worth the money
Yes 100%
Hey so I'm looking for a battery that will run my 7" garmin with a gt54 transducer and 10" with lsve32 live scope alone? What can I get. Just 10hrs most I'm out fishing
Here's a link that may help ampedoutdoors.com/pages/garmin%C2%AE . Probably need a 50 amh lithium
I shouldn't have hit that doobie before watching this...
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