Building a 12" Disc Sander from a furnace motor (WnW #12)
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
- An experiment in seeing if I can make a functional disc sander out of a free 1/3 horsepower motor, and other stuff found laying around the shop.
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LINKS TO SOME OF THE ITEMS USED:
(AND/OR other tools and jigs that I use and recommend.
Most of these are affiliate links. If you buy through these
links it helps support my channel. Thank-you so much!)
JIGS/ACCESSORIES
Crepe Block to clean Sandpaper: amzn.to/1KFC0G9
12" adhesive sandpaper disc: amzn.to/2mTeIKR
West System Epoxy Kit: amzn.to/1jlGgFc
amzn.to/25Iw4t6 - Long Nose pattern marker
amzn.to/1V4ZHkv - Painter’s Pyramids
dowelmax.com?aff=4 -- Direct link to dowelmax.com
amzn.to/2aSUhbR - Dowelmax Dowel Joinery Kit
amzn.to/2b6sCly - Dowelmax Drill Guides for 14” Dowels
amzn.to/2jSdHAq - Dowelmax dowels
amzn.to/2bfFjLh - Kreg Pocket Hole kit (I have an earlier version of this)
amzn.to/2beVc8N - Long Ranger Remote controls for Dust Collection
amzn.to/2nbD1W4 - Freud Box Joint Cutter Blade set
SMALL TOOLS
amzn.to/1pFGjPk - Sensgard ZEM hearing protection
amzn.to/1WSNq1j - Stanley Leverlock tape measure
amzn.to/2lYXz3W - Other auto-locking tape measures
amzn.to/1TzHwEp - Picquic “multi-bit” screwdrivers
amzn.to/1YP3rXy - Irwin Quick-grip XP600 clamps
amzn.to/1LleENk - Bessey small 4” F-Clamps
amzn.to/1qbopUK - Bessey VarioClippix, Adjustable Spring Clamps
amzn.to/2aqt0u4 - Ridgid 12v drills
amzn.to/1UegW3W - Hitachi 10.8v drill/driver kits
amzn.to/2aRaSJY - DeWalt Random Orbit Sander
amzn.to/1jlEmnL - Hitachi M12V router (I have an earlier version of this router)
amzn.to/2egwuDl - Porter Cable PC690 router with fixed base.
FINISH:
amzn.to/2beVz3t - Minwax oil-modified Polyurethane
amzn.to/2aNBHBi - 3M Super 77 spray adhesive
amzn.to/2b6uuLc - West System Epoxy kits
amzn.to/2daa1VK - Helmsman Spar Urethane
amzn.to/1TdiBp8 - Rust-Oleum clear Lacquer
amzn.to/2kPENLs - 3M Finishing Pads / Scotch Brite
amzn.to/2endTXX -- Clapham's Beeswax salad bowl finish
goo.gl/oedkrB -- Same thing at Lee Valley (non-affiliate link)
BIG TOOLS
amzn.to/2bpMmkX - DeWalt DW735 Planer
amzn.to/2beSIY6 - 3rd party blades for DW735
amzn.to/1QFDLYE - Delta BOSS Spindle Sander
amzn.to/2aRa6wD - Grizzly G0513ANV 2 HP Bandsaw (I have a similar earlier model)
GEAR I USE TO MAKE VIDEO:
amzn.to/1qPkvBp - Canon T5i
amzn.to/2aK7jZX - Inexpensive Quick Release tripod ball head (Very useful)
amzn.to/1SSwOmS - Sony Action Cam. (I use the HDR-AS15 which is discontinued -- cheaper than a gopro.)
amzn.to/267XM3M - Sony Live View video remote for Action Cam
amzn.to/1XC2D7l - Joby GorillaPod (Flexible small tripod)
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MORE MORE MORE:
www.wordsnwood.com
/ words.n.wood
/ wordsnwood
Music: audionautix.com/ - Навчання та стиль
Patrons spin me right round, baby, right round: www.patreon.com/wordsnwood
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This is an experiment in seeing if I can make a functional disc sander out of a relatively "weak" 1/3 horsepower motor, and other free/scrap bits laying around the shop.
More about this project: www.wordsnwood.com/2015/sander/
FOLLOW UP, six months later, in this shop update video: ua-cam.com/video/0O2IE4ubwdc/v-deo.html
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LINKS TO SOME OF THE ITEMS USED. (Affiliate links)
West System Epoxy Kit: amzn.to/1jlGgFc
12"adhesive sandpaper disc: amzn.to/2mTeIKR
Hitachi Compact 10.8V Kits: amzn.to/1jlCETB
Ridgid 12v Compact Drill: amzn.to/1O1lJmb
Crepe Block to clean Sandpaper: amzn.to/1KFC0G9
Nice! I think that 1hp is ideal, but 1/3hp will do the job just fine. I had similar problems with making a disk for mine. The first one was BB plywood, but I quickly changed that to melamine coated particle board.
Thanks! I was just using it tonight on some 4x4 ends... seems to sand well. I don't have another 12" to compare it to, but it does do better than the small 8" Mastercraft disc that I have.
wordsnwood I look at the full load current draw of a motor for a more accurate rating on the power, so 1/3 would be around 4 amps. Furnace fan motors usually have accurate ratings, unlike a lot of dust collector motors.
Unfortunately, I don't have one of those clip-on meters, so I don't have a way to measure current draw...
wordsnwood
The current draw is usually written on the motor normally abbreviated FLA (full load amps).
John Heisz I didn't know that, thank-you! The FLA is 6.1 So that's actually more than you were thinking.
(It's a Marathon Electric catalog B207, model BQJ. )
It's not that the plywood is out of flat. That wouldn't cause it to jump that much.
It's that the density often varies.
I was counting on Baltic Birch being a more uniform plywood... Oh well.
wordsnwood But the wood that is use for the plywood itself is not uniform weight. if there is a branch or some other inhomogeneity the weight varies. Think on tires made out of homogeny aluminum and rubber - there are even lead weights for balancing.
The disc could be also made out of plywood by balancing it by drilling holes to the back until the disc balances on its center. Just like Cosmas Bauer did.
I just stumbled on this video. I did this exact same thing a few years ago. 1/3 HP furnace motor. The pulley on the motor was cast aluminum and it had a protrusion coming out or the center that happened to be the exact size of a hole saw that I have. I used 1/2" MDF for the disc and cut a perfect 12" circle with my table saw by spinning it around a center hole. You can learn how to do it by a search. Then I used the hole saw with that center hole to cut a hole for the protrusion. Then I drilled holes through the MDF and the side of the pulley and counter sunk those in the MDF for 4 beveled 1/4 x 20 screws. I tapped the holes in the pulley. I put Formica on the face of the disc. I think I need to sand the Formica because the self adhesive sanding disc comes looses a bit. Otherwise, it works well enough. Thanks to your video, I learned that my motor is reversible. Mine took about 10 min. to reverse.
So this is what they were talking about in school when they said we would use it as adults... OK well this is a pretty common mistake with the math. Unless I miss the mark, here is the issue...people count the pieces and then look for the angles. What they should do is remember joints are made of 2 pieces, therefore, each cut would be for half the angle. Putting two pieces together make up the whole angle. Between pieces 1 and 2 is 4.6 degrees made of (2) cuts of 2.3 degrees each....and so on. I.E. figure the angle, then remember to cut half that angle for each mating piece. Another idea is to trace out your math on a sheet and see if it looks right by checking with the angle gauge or protractor....you know....draw out the pie segments. BTW, great project. Way to go, getting to the finish line!
+Dane Johnson Ya beat me to it! It was a good idea though, and a good fix using the epoxy.
+Ben Nawrath Agreed. Being resourceful is often a better tool than simply knowing the answer in the beginning. Problem solving for the win. Respect!
I´d say MDF is uniform since it´s processed while wood warps and can be lighter on one end and heavier on the other.
Thanks for the ideas. I am making one with an aluminum disc from pretty much surplus stuff as you did. Cheers!
You're welcome... Mine has a tiny wobble which I should try and fix, but even with that it sands just fine.
Sir I really enjoyed your video. I am going to build one and I really like the way you attached the disc.
Thanks for sharing this.
still using it 5+ years later.
Nice job.
Thanks for explaining your thought processes
I'm thinking you could have still used the plywood disk, you have that 4x36 belt sander, you could have propped it up against the disk while it was spinning and sanded that wobble out after a few minutes, you used it to true up the edge on the MDF wheel, I would have tried against the surface area while that disk is spinning, sanding until you remove enough material that reduces the wobble caused by it not being perfectly flat, but l like this idea, I might try it myself, there are always tons of cheap AC motors, for general sanding 1/3 HP should be more than plenty and you have a dedicated sanding station - nice job, nice video, subscribed :)
Looks like a great disk sander.
Thanks! It was a fun build.
Pretty cool. I've got a couple extra similar motors laying around.
Nice trick with the belt sander to true the disk sander. Whatever works.
I like this, I have a similar motor hanging around and now I'm certain I'm going to be able to use it for this application. Found your channel via "I Build It" - subbed.
i also made 12 inch sander with motor out jig saw with speed control.used hub off bike so its running on bearings. dust collection connects from behind. only had to buy wood glue since im always running out of it. need barrel of glue
Nice job. I'm working on the same thing. I was thinking of using aluminum flashing for the dust cover/guard. Trigonometry not required. Liked this. Subscribed ages ago. Work safe.
yes your math was wrong, if you were doing a full circle then the formula is 180/number of blocks you want. but half circle is 90/#of staves. so your angle should have been 2.3.
who need math if you have epoxy?
So now I see in the comments that it is better to use melamine coated particle board as it is uniform in cosistency unlike the plywood I used. Went to a plumbing heating shop and was told that a fan motor from a furnace would be useless for disc sander. Used washing machine motor with less amps and it worked so perhaps the guy saying no to the furnace motor was expecting stellar results?
Excelente proyecto, me gusta cada uno de los detalles que va fabricando. Hare una para mi.
Felicitaciones y gracias por enseñarnos
masabevideo De Nada -- and that's about all I could try and do in Spanish.
I just build (or am building) a 16" disk sander.
Its obviously huge, but its only powered by a little over 1/2 hp (380 Watts)
I can stall it if I really want to but holding a 2" x 4" piece of hard mahagony against it doesn't make it slow down.
Even tho its a "low power" motor its perfect for the job.
Although I have to add that its a 2800 rpm motor and I've reduced it down to 1550 rpm with my pulley.
So in a perfect world that would be 760 Watts (~over 1hp)
Awesome! I'm about to start this project myself!
Bravissimo.. semplice e funzionale.. 👍👍
Thank you !!
Very cool! Thanks!
Gerrit Hoevers you're welcome!
Very nice, I'm looking forward to the review in a month or so. I have been wanting to use an old Pool motor I have but was afraid it wasn't going to be strong enough.
So far it seems pretty good. Time will tell...
Nice build.
thanks, Bill
are u happy with this? definitely something I would like to build.
just made a dust filter unit with an old furnace motor, a 12 inch sander would be right handy
yup, still works fine.
I think you need to rabbit a slot for "T" so you can get you angles correct. nice build...
well done
Thanks for sharing
Nice!
thank-you!
Hello, wouldn't adding sawdust into the Epoxy when you filling the gaps will make the it looks better after sanding?
very...vry nice....congratulations.... São Paulo - Capital - Brasil
Awesome build Art. I have a small motor I will use to make one. SHould work great.
2 to cover them gaps use iron-on countertop edging
Thanks for the info greetings
Nice. The square piece of wood in the back will make it vibrate.
+Todd York (Splinter Haven) thanks, I'll keep that in mind for upgrades
I think the gaps on your guard are from the angle cut you used. You said 4.6 degrees. 180/39 = 4.6, but that is the total angle between the blocks. You needed to divide that by 2 to get the angle on each block.
I have an old 2hp motor from an air compressor I want to do something with. I was thinking about making a disc sander. it's a 3450RPM though. Think that would be too fast?
Yeah, that makes sense. Thanks.
As for your motor... I've never seen one that fast so I don't know how it would act. You could get a pulley+arbor to step it down in speed.
fan motors are everywhere.
Brilliant
like the way you think and work :-)
Parabéns, ficou bem legal.
+Gilberto Chaves thank-you!
Nice job, but wouldn't it have been easier to make the shield out of sheet metal?
I'm betting your balance problem is... unless you buy plywood with no voids... it has voids in it... In the plywood you can't "see" where the voids are. It would be just like when they drill out metal to balance a part.
i don't think it was lack of flatness that caused your original disk to be so unbalanced. Natural wood does not have a uniform density. Tree rings grow thicker and thinner in different years according to seasonal variations. MDF is much more uniform.
Nice project!
Is there any particular reason you wanted such a "sturdy" dust screen?
I plan on making this, but I plan on using 1/4" ply for the dust sreen which I'm going to make "bendable" by ripping it halfway through at every 1/4" or so...
Peter Watz That should work fine. And really, there was not any particular reason for making the arch as thick as I did.
This question is not about the project as such. More about your camera. At 1:51 there is a phone, i think, on your work table. It shows what the camera is pointing at? How did you pull that of? =) I have been looking for that kind of solution. Hope you understand my question and can help.
Great project by the way. =)
Thanks, malene koldborg . I'm using a Sony Actioncam HDR AS-15 which can communicate to an iPhone or iPod over wifi. (there is a free sony app that we downloaded. I would think it is available for android also, but I don't know) This is a small camera much like the gopro. I'm pretty sure that the newer gopro cameras support this method also. You can also buy separate dedicated wireless screens for those cameras, but I already had the iPod, so I went with the cheap approach.
Do you have plans to build the fence on your table saw ??
+Rob L The fence on my tablesaw came with the saw -- It is a General fence, which is a Biesmeyer type of fence
Just out of curiosity, didn't you need to "true" the disc so that it doesn't wobble. I thought the whole thing would start "walking" away if you didn't true the disc.
That was probably the trouble with the first one. Even the second one isn't perfect, but it's pretty good.
Good video. Where do you get your epoxy & hardener in the containers & pumps?
Thanks again for the video!
zetus kid I got it at Lee Valley. it is also available at Amazon... and I should have put a link to that in the video description, thanks
Hey Art, after 4 years, how is this thing working? Is the 1/3 hp motor enough or do you feel you should have used a bigger one? Also, did you use melamine or MDF? I don't know if the two terms are synonymous, but I think of MDF as not having a finish on it where melamine has a laminate on one or both sides. And finally, how do you find the discs stick to and remove from the melamine surface (if that's what you used)? This project is getting on my short list and your experience will be super helpful, thanks!
Huh, wow, it really is four years... Just used it tonight. The 1/3hp is fine for my needs. I think it sands pretty quick.
It is MDF sold as shelving. It had some sort of coating on it, but I don't think it is melamine. If it is, it's pretty thin.
I think I've changed the sandpaper only once and it was not bad.
Kind of wish I had a bigger one. I get jealous when I see that monster that Frank Howarth (from the Frank Makes) channel has. Not that I have any practical need for something like that!
@@Wordsnwood Thanks for the reply! Yes, it's easy to drool over Frank's shop. And I don't have any need for that kind of thing either. But then, is it really a question of "need" for something like that. :) Thanks for all of the info on the sander. If you're curious about it, I'll share how mine goes when I get to it.
Any reason why your table is below the C/L of the sanding disk?
Because when I looked around online that's how I saw other sanders were built.
Gerard B du coudray Balance load can be achieved if the table level can be adjusted based on the thickness material being sanded.
Great video,
Just one question regarding the 1/3 hp: are you able to stop, or slow down, the disc rotation by pressing a piece of wood into the disc or that requires excessive amount of pressure ?
+Fredrik J I've never tried to stop it, and under normal use I have not noticed any issues.
+Wordsnwood (Art Mulder) No, I wouldn't either try to stop it...
Then 1/3 hp seems enough if it doesn't loose any rotation speed under normal sanding - thanks
Great design and great build that you have done here. The fast forward of the saw cutting makes me cringe each time I watch one.
The disc imbalance could be caused by the square section mounting plate on the back of the 12" disc. It would be better if this mounting plate was round. Loved your use of the belt grinder but it may have been easier to use a wood chisel and turn the edge true as if it was in a lathe. When rotating items need to be balanced, finding the centre when assembling them is not as important as truing them up to the axis that they are mounted on. Ideally the mounting plate edges and the mounting plate face should have been trued first and once the disc is mounted the edge, rear face and front face should also be trued. All are then true to the rotating axis that they are mounted on.
Please take this as constructive criticism, what you have made here is something that seems to be working very well and suits your purpose. It is certainly very well made.
i worked in a shipyard for many years and one of the shops had a disc sander about 36" wide with a huge motor on it. They used peel and stick, non slip deck tread instead of sand paper and if hogged through the wood. No idea how cost effective this is but they told me that the deck tread lasted for years. They were boat builders, not cabinet makers.
That speed is suitable for a 30 cm diameter sanding disk.?
Could it serve as a washing machine motor?.
+alcabresamil I have no idea, sorry.
Nice
thank-you
Hello ,may I ask, where do you buy that self-adhesive sander disc .
I found it at the local big box hardware store. Here they are on amazon: amzn.to/2mTeIKR
Sir, What did you call that? A split pulley? Where can I find one? Thank you sir!
It was on my old furnace... check out the furnace section of the home centre, or ask a friendly HVAC person... That's all I can suggest
what brand, size, & where did you get those Pump" 2 part epoxy..???
+Bob White It's a west system kit. 105 epoxy, 205 hardener and 406 silica powder to thicken it. I bought it at Lee Valley, but you can also find it at amazon: amzn.to/1TzG98z
The pump system is great because they take care of all the measuring.
+Wordsnwood (Art Mulder) That was my first thought, I've always known it's "equal parts" & for over half a century, I'm not sure all my parts were ever that equal.. & I like the idea of being able to thicken it.. Thanks.
+Bob White 5 minute epoxy is equal parts. The west 105 epoxy is a 5:1 ratio. That makes the pumps even more useful. (or 3:1 with a different hardener)
Love it thanks, how much does it cost?
+Bob White The 32oz kit is in the US$75 range from Lee Valley or Amazon.
Hah 5 bucks - Canadian! Rock on.
+Bobby Kurczewski not bad, eh?
Exactly! It's good to see some other folks from around these parts! Cheers to my new favorite channel. lol
Nice build Art, how has your sander motor been holding up? ( New subscriber)
still works the same.... of course as a hobbyist I'm not running it constantly!
Thank you for the quick response Art....!
hello would be nice if the translation in Spanish
+Luc talla (Lucho) Sorry, but I don't speak spanish, so I can't help you there.
great idea, nice video But RUINED BY THAT IRRITATING MUSIC. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE , MAKE VIDEO WITHOUT THE MUSIC
I am very interested in this. I have a Delta drill press whose pulleys exploded and there are no replacements available. Cannibalizing that miserable sob will serve two functions, I will have my revenge and I can make a working tool from its remains. Thanks.
Terrible music in the background.
Nice. Dave Wirth seems to be using exactly the same motor watch?v=v0whmYkAV7U
Yeah, I think I've seen that one.