Hey, I watch all series. I own a tmax 500 model 2011. Setup: - Malossi clutch kit. - Akrapovic full system exhaust (silencer on). - Variator polini evo 3, 12 rollers, 8.3gr each. - Polini aramid belt 859mm (original 892mm). My tmax on 74k km A huge difference between what I see in video and mine. Mine getting 0-100km/h in 5.8 sec. Or maybe less in milliseconds. Full throttle stands between 6750-7000 rpm 1st of all. The new clutch need to drive at least 300km till it stop slipping. And the malossi clutch simply last longer. You will not feel any additional power in it. 2nd rollers of 16gr are really heavy. Try 8 rollers with 12gr. And you will see wise difference, specifically on take off. Still waiting for you to make comparison between malossi and polini variators. And really thank you for the series. Was so helpful.
I've stayed heavier on the weights just because of cruise RPM. I tend to ride faster than I should, around 80-85MPH regularly (~130-135kmh) so I was trying to keep RPM more reasonable for longevity. I think a variator would be the way to go for me, so hopefully it get RPM up under heavy throttle and maintain a more narrow RPM range while not requiring much higher revs for cruising. I'd gladly compare Polini and Malossi variators, but I have to pay for this stuff myself. I get a discount from ScooterTuning, but not so much that I can go parts shopping whenever I'd like. I greatly appreciate it, but don't think stuff is just showing up here for free. I'm considering getting a Malossi variator (that's what ScooterTuning carries), but I don't really have the funds to spare now so I'm not sure if I'll do it or not and I can assure you I'd love to see how it does. I doubt that I'll ever see your times, since I'm 300lb, but there has to be a lot more there if it gets the revs up.
Hi Brent, interesting results, it must be a bit deflating after all your hard work and time. But at least you know the Tmax is good for many more miles now. I guess also regarding acceleration, the Tmax is a really heavy old bus ( one of the reasons why it handles and corners so great I reckon ) so it's never going to set the quarter mile alight. As always, great work on the Tmax series.
Thanks. It would be nice to be quicker, but the main point of the whole process was maintenance. It's a 500lb scooter with a 300lb rider and a little over 40HP, so it's not a dragster.... but we always want more.
What you need is the Overrange variaor kit (variator + front pulley half +torque drive). The lighter/sliders and lower bottom gear ratio will completely transform your bike. It'll take off at much higher RPM's too
@@RageEG I looked at that, but at one point the description said it was tailored to turbo engines and I thought it may not be what I need. Now I don't see it in there so I was either looking at a different part or it changed.
@@49ccscoot Ohh, fair enough. The French have built quite a reputation for turbocharging Max's. In that case, the normal variator will make a big difference nonetheless
Hey man, you should really get a aftermarket variator (polini, malossi, jcosta). I have one in my tmax 500 and the thing is a rocket! It pulls right away to 6500 rmp and the takeoff rpms are also way higher. That should get your 0-60 times in to the 5/6 sec region. Also nice job on the porting, when you are going to tune the bike more the results should really show.
My 81cc china scoot is broken down right now, I don't know exactly what's wrong, it picked up a bad vibration, and on a ride the over bolts fell out, almost lost it, I replaced the Bendix, and some reason after starting a few times it doesn't want to turn over. It doesn't want to start when below freezing, all this happens at once, this time. I think the CDI is what makes it difficult to start when cold, I'm going back to a stock CDI. And I guess I'm going to swap engines, it's been rode hard, put up harder, I have two flavors, a high compression 50mm bore kit with oversized valves, and a 52.4 bore with even larger valves, both heads ported, and pistons lightened slightly, it's been cold and I haven't really felt up to working on it lately, I might get lazy and just try getting it running again, it could be simple as the battery cable not making good connection! I just hope I can make it easier to start when it's cold, it just does not want to turn over! Even with a car battery connected ! But I have a new battery coming also, Thanks for all the great videos, and happy holidays!!
@@49ccscoot thanks, just found it I like the transmission on this and would like to see if I could do a transmission like this for an electric motor, an equivalent electric would be small, and would save on range with a cvt
It's still here, just as it was when I left off of the last of the SSR project vids. The video process takes me so long doing it all myself that I can't get any project done quickly.
Could it be that the new belt is not fully able reaching the previous idle level ratio between primary to secondary cvt discs? Just so much it makes secondary disc spinn faster enough to make it work like stock? Malossi is high quality parts and i find it strange they wouldnt offer any improvements at all. These clutch springs work differently than 49CC centrifugal bell type? Regards
Belt width would change the CVT drive ratio, but in this case the clutch is separate from the CVT. This is a wet clutch and the way it's setup, it doesn't matter where the belt is or what ratio when it engages. It reacts to engine RPM. That said, it could be in a worse drive ratio when engaged. It's basically like a typical motorcycle clutch, but designed to be automatic. Rollers are in the clutch housing, similar to a variator. When RPM increases, they move and begin to push the friction plates together. Clutch springs resist their force. If it wasn't such a pain to get to the clutch, I'd consider trying to lighten the rollers in there to see what happens.
@@49ccscoot I'd agree with Bumble. Are you sure there where no spacers in the primary (when the bike was new) ? It just sounds like when taking off in "second gear". Apart from taking off, it seems to accelerate reasonable.
@@BrainHurricanes If there were, they were removed before I ever touched it and are not included in any parts diagrams. I could try to shim the boss, but I'm not even sure if it needs it. I've never really looked at it for too long. I just assumed the variator was designed to be mild off the line. Every video I've seen of a TMAX with a stock variator lags taking off. Even the newer models with more displacement and sport mode still do it to some degree. The only ones that don't stay at low RPM taking off that I've seen are the ones with aftermarket variators.
@@49ccscoot Okay hmm. Always a bug in the eye feeling when ending up with strange results. Maby a Yamaha owner should answer who actually knows, i'm just one of your 49cc padawan learners with a Potato (Taotao) :) Though i've port matched it for 18mm CV carb. Final drive about 10:1. Higher comp (11.5:1), malossi cam and alot of smirky little mods :) Currently installing engine on frame pew. Anyways if it is a wet clutch i think it is also sensitive to oil viscosity and to never reassemble the clutch rings in any new order. Anyways,I guess you know better than me on this bike. But it's really nice btw. I was many times thinking with your knowledge you should buy a larger bike and over time tweak it to that fine crispy tune you always end up with :D I'm kinda decently oriented in many technical areas but now I can only guess. But I think any new bike like this one is setup for good milage, low emissions and smooth cruising. I dont see any engage rpms but you maby have low take off rpm. Could be the secondary pulley slide curve hassling power? Just gives me a feel that it want to down shift more but it cant. You little porting imo is not the problem as long as you didnt mess it up :D Im just thinking try longer or thinner belt, or both.
@@bumblebob5979 For me, tuning these big scoots is cost prohibitive. A big bore kit is roughly $700, then cams are another $700, then the fuel controller is $400, over range kit is around $600 IIRC, exhausts are $700-900. So I could put over $3,000 into it and end up with 50HP if I'm lucky. If money were no object or parts were free, I'd have to try it, but in my reality that's a ton of cash. Not to mention reliability concerns when you get too far into modding. If I had any sense, I'd just ride it and enjoy it. The whole reason I got it was to ride it and not work on just one of my scoots. lol
Hi brent, does yr tmax pull a little when it idles? Mine does, its hard when sitting on it with the engine on backing up by foot, if that makes sense, also when idling the back wheel moves pretry fast is that normal? The only thing i did was putting dr pully rolers
@@zitoschouten5068 Are you sure a roller didn't get out of place? Certain that everything went by the book for the CVT work? If the idle speed is good and the last change was the CVT, right before it started this, I'd think it is very likely to be in there. Other possibility may be wrong size of rollers.
@@49ccscoot I cleaned my vario it was full of grease, an exessive amount, got rid op de the dr pulley sliders and put in the original rollers, dry this time, to see how it runs and it runs alot better. The real wheel still turns pretty fast but when warm it slows down a little. So i guess its the chocke at work when cold. Though it should be complety stalled right?
Hi Brent, I liked your video. I'm a mechanic my self for car's, and restauring old moped's especially Yamaha, and I also like watching proper repair video's. I heard that rattle noise when you drove your scooter. What's that? 🇸🇯👍🙂
Thanks. Good question. I'm not sure TBH. It never did that. Then I took a trip to some mountains in Pennsylvania a couple of years ago and it started doing that during that trip and never stopped. I haven't seen anything alarming with as far as I've been in the engine. Could be something silly like a clip rattling... or not. 🤷♀️
42 to 44 mpg?? I thought it'd get more like 60-65 mph considering a Honda NC750X gets 65 real world mpgs. I wish my town sold E85. I wanted to convert my motorized bicycle 2 stroke to E85 to run cooler.
It should be able to do 50s... but I don't like to ride it slow. I know it did over 50MPG for me stock. I've got to use more throttle though. I'd imagine the bigger engine can cruise at lower throttle.
@@49ccscoot I dig your channel 👍 just checked to see 500cc & 530cc my 85 yamaha xj700 maxin (inline 4) gets about the same mpg. Better mpg if I ride at 55 mph, shift at lower rpms & coast in N to upcoming red-lights. I guess the nc700x & nc750x went all out on bore stroke configuration for optimum mpgs sacrificing some fun. I'd don't understand why no scooter 🛵 or 🏍 company has built a 3 wheel recumbent like scooter with an aerodynamic lightweight removable weather enclosure on a yamaha Tricity or Piaggio mp3 platform where u have the 3 wheel stability but with the articulation to lean & carve corners. Like the fully enclosed motorcycle, the Monotracer Monoracer. I think it screwd up by only using 2 wheels & pop out training wheels. Had they used 3 wheels or made it to where it could be drove with the training wheels down, in slick rain light snow. So it could be used yr round, more people might buy one. Think adventure motorcycle but a sit in, fully enclosed, aerodynamic, 3 wheel adventure vehicle that can used rear round. With 3 aerodynamic removable storage compartments. In nice weather you could remove most of the enclosure. I feel like if I could build what I have envisioned in my head. I could sell a ton. Tandem 2 seated teardrop shape.Able to handle street or rough gravel country roads with adjustable suspension. If a Honda nc750x gets 65 real world mpgs. That engine(they have an automatic version) in a similar weight, aerodynamic vehicle would get 30% better mpgs..... If it's fun to drive,carves corners like a Piaggio mp3 , can fit 2 people, carry plenty of groceries, is much cheaper than car/same price as motorcycle, 75+mpgs, able to go 100+ mph, cheaper maintance & parts cost, able to used yr round & rode with enclosure off in nice weather,etc...I think tons of younger & older people would buy them to be sole transportation or a second vehicle. The of the Elio 3 wheel car but more sporty & rugged looking with the leaning Piaggio mp3 like front end instead of standard front 2 wheel steering configuration & 2 removable aerodynamic saddlebags/storage compartments mounted to each side, with 3rd rear trunk. Make the vehicle seat able to lay flat so it can convert into a sleeping pod. When on a road trip by yourself. The moderate off road adjustable suspension capability & great mpgs would made for a great road trip camping vehicle. Plus being narrow & lightweight could go where cars couldn't & easily be pulled out with small cheap winch if stuck.
Damn can't believe I just wrote all that. I have a V8 Ford econoline van that gets 14mpg. Instead of a 14mpg campervan, I'd so much rather have the 75-85mpg 3 wheel enclosed adventure vehicle I mentioned above to drive across USA on vacation.
I watched port videos.Much bend and bumps,to halt the engine.And chief ment better some rough.Trafick security by factory.Some F1 use copper valve-seat.Wich ALSO is state from ngk,bought new plug.Standard,Platinum and Iridum(double iridum and lasr iridum."You must never use copper sealing on iridum spark-plug,because of "over-torque"wich will harm the engine and plug".So top gasket should be copper.Paper low gasket less inner pressure.They have valve in microscope.Standard plug only burns half gas.Ordred non-ballast coil 20$,and high voltage for modern car 30$ aliexpress.Had 50cc scooter out trough winter,and it has shrink,so it needs smaller noozle.Said before,piston and cylinder grows,garabage when it stucks.
Standart CVT´s shift always non linear! they designt to go full throttlel from zero without making max power! so a 90 year old granny can eazy ride! Springs alone bring not much. higher rpm cluch make the nonlinear cvt shift more by take off. its like starting in 2gear. from the cvt out its looks like this; ok rpm goes up but i have no load. so i shift to 2gear. ok ther is load fron the cluch, ok i hold the rpm my non linear slider gruve do the rest! i hope you understand what iam traying to tell.
Yeah, I get it. No different than the small scoots where you want the belt in the right spots to get a good takeoff. I'm mostly surprised that the stiff springs don't seem to cause noticeably higher RPM engagement.
the cvt is made for 4-stroke engines with low rpm and high torque!!! 50cc is completely the other way around!! double spring force at 50cc makes a lot, but with 4-stroke the difference with double spring force is relatively small! Brake holding loads the cvt! so the cvt shifts not much. its more like 1 gear not 2 gear! malossi variator is the way to go! it shifts also non linear but in the other way! so rpm at start goes quick up and stays there watch?v=gg_TzRpbgB0
@@bravo1412 I've watched the vids of variators and OR kits. Just hoped that I could make some difference with springs since I was going to do the clutch regardless so it really didn't cost me much extra vs stock stuff. I'm still thinking about a vari or OR, but it all costs money.
I bought one early this year, but I've gotta get time to install and film it. I'm hoping keeping RPM up coupled with small gains from porting works well for me.
@@49ccscoot when you install it ,the variator has 2 washers inside install 1 of them and you will see rmp very high! If you install the 2 washers together has very very high rmp , I have tested two ways , the way with the 1 washer works better for me .
Liked the t max vids . Love the 2t vids.. Hoping to see some new 2t stuff again. Either or love what ya do.. Always good content with great info..
Hey, I watch all series. I own a tmax 500 model 2011.
Setup:
- Malossi clutch kit.
- Akrapovic full system exhaust (silencer on).
- Variator polini evo 3, 12 rollers, 8.3gr each.
- Polini aramid belt 859mm (original 892mm).
My tmax on 74k km
A huge difference between what I see in video and mine.
Mine getting 0-100km/h in 5.8 sec. Or
maybe less in milliseconds.
Full throttle stands between 6750-7000 rpm
1st of all. The new clutch need to drive at least 300km till it stop slipping.
And the malossi clutch simply last longer.
You will not feel any additional power in it.
2nd rollers of 16gr are really heavy.
Try 8 rollers with 12gr. And you will see wise difference, specifically on take off.
Still waiting for you to make comparison between malossi and polini variators.
And really thank you for the series. Was so helpful.
I've stayed heavier on the weights just because of cruise RPM. I tend to ride faster than I should, around 80-85MPH regularly (~130-135kmh) so I was trying to keep RPM more reasonable for longevity. I think a variator would be the way to go for me, so hopefully it get RPM up under heavy throttle and maintain a more narrow RPM range while not requiring much higher revs for cruising.
I'd gladly compare Polini and Malossi variators, but I have to pay for this stuff myself. I get a discount from ScooterTuning, but not so much that I can go parts shopping whenever I'd like. I greatly appreciate it, but don't think stuff is just showing up here for free. I'm considering getting a Malossi variator (that's what ScooterTuning carries), but I don't really have the funds to spare now so I'm not sure if I'll do it or not and I can assure you I'd love to see how it does.
I doubt that I'll ever see your times, since I'm 300lb, but there has to be a lot more there if it gets the revs up.
@@49ccscoot got it. I’m 160lbs also make difference.
Hi Brent, interesting results, it must be a bit deflating after all your hard work and time.
But at least you know the Tmax is good for many more miles now.
I guess also regarding acceleration, the Tmax is a really heavy old bus ( one of the reasons why it handles and corners so great I reckon ) so it's never going to set the quarter mile alight.
As always, great work on the Tmax series.
Thanks. It would be nice to be quicker, but the main point of the whole process was maintenance. It's a 500lb scooter with a 300lb rider and a little over 40HP, so it's not a dragster.... but we always want more.
What you need is the Overrange variaor kit (variator + front pulley half +torque drive). The lighter/sliders and lower bottom gear ratio will completely transform your bike. It'll take off at much higher RPM's too
It's a common mod in the UK. When done right, the bike will wheelie on takeoff at full throttle
@@RageEG I looked at that, but at one point the description said it was tailored to turbo engines and I thought it may not be what I need. Now I don't see it in there so I was either looking at a different part or it changed.
@@49ccscoot Ohh, fair enough. The French have built quite a reputation for turbocharging Max's. In that case, the normal variator will make a big difference nonetheless
Interesting result? I'm a great believer in keeping things standard, I have full trust in Yamaha's engineers.
I never really intended to mod anything, but it made me do it. lol
Hey man, you should really get a aftermarket variator (polini, malossi, jcosta). I have one in my tmax 500 and the thing is a rocket! It pulls right away to 6500 rmp and the takeoff rpms are also way higher. That should get your 0-60 times in to the 5/6 sec region. Also nice job on the porting, when you are going to tune the bike more the results should really show.
My 81cc china scoot is broken down right now, I don't know exactly what's wrong, it picked up a bad vibration, and on a ride the over bolts fell out, almost lost it, I replaced the Bendix, and some reason after starting a few times it doesn't want to turn over. It doesn't want to start when below freezing, all this happens at once, this time. I think the CDI is what makes it difficult to start when cold, I'm going back to a stock CDI. And I guess I'm going to swap engines, it's been rode hard, put up harder, I have two flavors, a high compression 50mm bore kit with oversized valves, and a 52.4 bore with even larger valves, both heads ported, and pistons lightened slightly, it's been cold and I haven't really felt up to working on it lately, I might get lazy and just try getting it running again, it could be simple as the battery cable not making good connection! I just hope I can make it easier to start when it's cold, it just does not want to turn over! Even with a car battery connected ! But I have a new battery coming also,
Thanks for all the great videos, and happy holidays!!
Ik it's been awhile but I'd suggest a j.costa vario or maybe 13g malossi galets
Turbo time!!!!
A nitrous bottle or two may have danced around my head, but ultimately I just wanna ride this thing and not always have it apart.
How does this transmission work?
Crankshaft -> CVT -> clutch?
I saw an open engine video but I did not see what the clutch was doing
Yeah. You can find the XP500 Technical Orientation Guide online. That has diagrams where you can sort of see where things are connected.
@@49ccscoot thanks, just found it
I like the transmission on this and would like to see if I could do a transmission like this for an electric motor, an equivalent electric would be small, and would save on range with a cvt
How is your Chinise Delta moped? (Laser moped)
It's still here, just as it was when I left off of the last of the SSR project vids. The video process takes me so long doing it all myself that I can't get any project done quickly.
Could it be that the new belt is not fully able reaching the previous idle level ratio between primary to secondary cvt discs? Just so much it makes secondary disc spinn faster enough to make it work like stock? Malossi is high quality parts and i find it strange they wouldnt offer any improvements at all. These clutch springs work differently than 49CC centrifugal bell type? Regards
Belt width would change the CVT drive ratio, but in this case the clutch is separate from the CVT. This is a wet clutch and the way it's setup, it doesn't matter where the belt is or what ratio when it engages. It reacts to engine RPM. That said, it could be in a worse drive ratio when engaged.
It's basically like a typical motorcycle clutch, but designed to be automatic. Rollers are in the clutch housing, similar to a variator. When RPM increases, they move and begin to push the friction plates together. Clutch springs resist their force. If it wasn't such a pain to get to the clutch, I'd consider trying to lighten the rollers in there to see what happens.
@@49ccscoot I'd agree with Bumble. Are you sure there where no spacers in the primary (when the bike was new) ? It just sounds like when taking off in "second gear". Apart from taking off, it seems to accelerate reasonable.
@@BrainHurricanes If there were, they were removed before I ever touched it and are not included in any parts diagrams.
I could try to shim the boss, but I'm not even sure if it needs it.
I've never really looked at it for too long. I just assumed the variator was designed to be mild off the line. Every video I've seen of a TMAX with a stock variator lags taking off. Even the newer models with more displacement and sport mode still do it to some degree. The only ones that don't stay at low RPM taking off that I've seen are the ones with aftermarket variators.
@@49ccscoot Okay hmm. Always a bug in the eye feeling when ending up with strange results.
Maby a Yamaha owner should answer who actually knows, i'm just one of your 49cc padawan learners with a Potato (Taotao) :) Though i've port matched it for 18mm CV carb. Final drive about 10:1. Higher comp (11.5:1), malossi cam and alot of smirky little mods :) Currently installing engine on frame pew.
Anyways if it is a wet clutch i think it is also sensitive to oil viscosity and to never reassemble the clutch rings in any new order. Anyways,I guess you know better than me on this bike. But it's really nice btw. I was many times thinking with your knowledge you should buy a larger bike and over time tweak it to that fine crispy tune you always end up with :D I'm kinda decently oriented in many technical areas but now I can only guess. But I think any new bike like this one is setup for good milage, low emissions and smooth cruising. I dont see any engage rpms but you maby have low take off rpm. Could be the secondary pulley slide curve hassling power? Just gives me a feel that it want to down shift more but it cant. You little porting imo is not the problem as long as you didnt mess it up :D Im just thinking try longer or thinner belt, or both.
@@bumblebob5979 For me, tuning these big scoots is cost prohibitive. A big bore kit is roughly $700, then cams are another $700, then the fuel controller is $400, over range kit is around $600 IIRC, exhausts are $700-900. So I could put over $3,000 into it and end up with 50HP if I'm lucky. If money were no object or parts were free, I'd have to try it, but in my reality that's a ton of cash. Not to mention reliability concerns when you get too far into modding.
If I had any sense, I'd just ride it and enjoy it. The whole reason I got it was to ride it and not work on just one of my scoots. lol
Hi Brent ,👋🏻👋🏻👋🏻👋🏻
🤜🤛 Hey.
Hi brent, does yr tmax pull a little when it idles? Mine does, its hard when sitting on it with the engine on backing up by foot, if that makes sense, also when idling the back wheel moves pretry fast is that normal? The only thing i did was putting dr pully rolers
No, not at all. I'd check idle speed first. Should be 1,100-1,300RPM.
@@49ccscoot yea i did it helped a little but i dont think thats it, any ither ideas?
@@zitoschouten5068 Are you sure a roller didn't get out of place? Certain that everything went by the book for the CVT work? If the idle speed is good and the last change was the CVT, right before it started this, I'd think it is very likely to be in there. Other possibility may be wrong size of rollers.
@@49ccscoot ill have a look, its been a while actually because of an broken pick up, but i think it has to be the cvt too.
@@49ccscoot I cleaned my vario it was full of grease, an exessive amount, got rid op de the dr pulley sliders and put in the original rollers, dry this time, to see how it runs and it runs alot better. The real wheel still turns pretty fast but when warm it slows down a little. So i guess its the chocke at work when cold. Though it should be complety stalled right?
Hi Brent, I liked your video. I'm a mechanic my self for car's, and restauring old moped's especially Yamaha, and I also like watching proper repair video's. I heard that rattle noise when you drove your scooter. What's that? 🇸🇯👍🙂
Thanks. Good question. I'm not sure TBH. It never did that. Then I took a trip to some mountains in Pennsylvania a couple of years ago and it started doing that during that trip and never stopped. I haven't seen anything alarming with as far as I've been in the engine. Could be something silly like a clip rattling... or not. 🤷♀️
@@49ccscoot probably nothing to worry about 😂🇸🇯
@@yvindninakorneliussen2217 😱
42 to 44 mpg?? I thought it'd get more like 60-65 mph considering a Honda NC750X gets 65 real world mpgs.
I wish my town sold E85. I wanted to convert my motorized bicycle 2 stroke to E85 to run cooler.
It should be able to do 50s... but I don't like to ride it slow. I know it did over 50MPG for me stock. I've got to use more throttle though. I'd imagine the bigger engine can cruise at lower throttle.
@@49ccscoot I dig your channel 👍 just checked to see 500cc & 530cc my 85 yamaha xj700 maxin (inline 4) gets about the same mpg. Better mpg if I ride at 55 mph, shift at lower rpms & coast in N to upcoming red-lights. I guess the nc700x & nc750x went all out on bore stroke configuration for optimum mpgs sacrificing some fun. I'd don't understand why no scooter 🛵 or 🏍 company has built a 3 wheel recumbent like scooter with an aerodynamic lightweight removable weather enclosure on a yamaha Tricity or Piaggio mp3 platform where u have the 3 wheel stability but with the articulation to lean & carve corners. Like the fully enclosed motorcycle, the Monotracer Monoracer. I think it screwd up by only using 2 wheels & pop out training wheels. Had they used 3 wheels or made it to where it could be drove with the training wheels down, in slick rain light snow. So it could be used yr round, more people might buy one. Think adventure motorcycle but a sit in, fully enclosed, aerodynamic, 3 wheel adventure vehicle that can used rear round. With 3 aerodynamic removable storage compartments. In nice weather you could remove most of the enclosure.
I feel like if I could build what I have envisioned in my head. I could sell a ton. Tandem 2 seated teardrop shape.Able to handle street or rough gravel country roads with adjustable suspension. If a Honda nc750x gets 65 real world mpgs. That engine(they have an automatic version) in a similar weight, aerodynamic vehicle would get 30% better mpgs..... If it's fun to drive,carves corners like a Piaggio mp3 , can fit 2 people, carry plenty of groceries, is much cheaper than car/same price as motorcycle, 75+mpgs, able to go 100+ mph, cheaper maintance & parts cost, able to used yr round & rode with enclosure off in nice weather,etc...I think tons of younger & older people would buy them to be sole transportation or a second vehicle.
The of the Elio 3 wheel car but more sporty & rugged looking with the leaning Piaggio mp3 like front end instead of standard front 2 wheel steering configuration & 2 removable aerodynamic saddlebags/storage compartments mounted to each side, with 3rd rear trunk. Make the vehicle seat able to lay flat so it can convert into a sleeping pod. When on a road trip by yourself. The moderate off road adjustable suspension capability & great mpgs would made for a great road trip camping vehicle. Plus being narrow & lightweight could go where cars couldn't & easily be pulled out with small cheap winch if stuck.
Damn can't believe I just wrote all that. I have a V8 Ford econoline van that gets 14mpg. Instead of a 14mpg campervan, I'd so much rather have the 75-85mpg 3 wheel enclosed adventure vehicle I mentioned above to drive across USA on vacation.
@@michaelbrinks8089 Also remember this thing is 12 years old. The new model TMAX 560, which isn't sold in the US, gets around 60-65MPG.
I watched port videos.Much bend and bumps,to halt the engine.And chief ment better some rough.Trafick security by factory.Some F1 use copper valve-seat.Wich ALSO is state from ngk,bought new plug.Standard,Platinum and Iridum(double iridum and lasr iridum."You must never use copper sealing on iridum spark-plug,because of "over-torque"wich will harm the engine and plug".So top gasket should be copper.Paper low gasket less inner pressure.They have valve in microscope.Standard plug only burns half gas.Ordred non-ballast coil 20$,and high voltage for modern car 30$ aliexpress.Had 50cc scooter out trough winter,and it has shrink,so it needs smaller noozle.Said before,piston and cylinder grows,garabage when it stucks.
Kinda a bummer the clutch kit didn’t do much. At least it’s new.
Standart CVT´s shift always non linear! they designt to go full throttlel from zero without making max power! so a 90 year old granny can eazy ride! Springs alone bring not much. higher rpm cluch make the nonlinear cvt shift more by take off. its like starting in 2gear. from the cvt out its looks like this; ok rpm goes up but i have no load. so i shift to 2gear. ok ther is load fron the cluch, ok i hold the rpm my non linear slider gruve do the rest! i hope you understand what iam traying to tell.
Yeah, I get it. No different than the small scoots where you want the belt in the right spots to get a good takeoff. I'm mostly surprised that the stiff springs don't seem to cause noticeably higher RPM engagement.
the cvt is made for 4-stroke engines with low rpm and high torque!!! 50cc is completely the other way around!! double spring force at 50cc makes a lot, but with 4-stroke the difference with double spring force is relatively small!
Brake holding loads the cvt! so the cvt shifts not much. its more like 1 gear not 2 gear!
malossi variator is the way to go! it shifts also non linear but in the other way! so rpm at start goes quick up and stays there
watch?v=gg_TzRpbgB0
@@bravo1412 I've watched the vids of variators and OR kits. Just hoped that I could make some difference with springs since I was going to do the clutch regardless so it really didn't cost me much extra vs stock stuff. I'm still thinking about a vari or OR, but it all costs money.
@@49ccscoot NOO
NOO
If you put a malossi variatior will see what Tmax is !
You will cry 😂😂😂
I bought one early this year, but I've gotta get time to install and film it. I'm hoping keeping RPM up coupled with small gains from porting works well for me.
@@49ccscoot when you install it ,the variator has 2 washers inside install 1 of them and you will see rmp very high!
If you install the 2 washers together has very very high rmp , I have tested two ways , the way with the 1 washer works better for me .