Great video and wish I knew half of what you know about engines would save me a lot of money getting my bike repaired and serviced,I should of went to school more and mechanic courses so I wouldn’t be a skint thick idiot now Keep up your good work 👍🏻
Wow such a lot of work on old valves. Would it not be more efficient to replace the lot. If you are doing this professionally all that Labour would be more expensive than replacing the valves.
It's something like $200 in valves to replace them all, but I wanted to see how everything was doing while I was at it. Honestly, most of the routine service doesn't make a lot of sense to do in a professional shop. The bill for the complete service manual spec service would make it almost more practical to replace the scooter.
Once again, awesome video! I am curious why only one valve per cyclinder is bent but not in pairs. I would expect Exhaust 1A and 1B to be both bent and Intake 2A and 2B as well.
This is what I have done... instead of wasting time, you know/suspect leakage and you have the cylinder head removed & sitting on the work bench. So, go ahead with the complete disassembly to prep for cleaning & perform a blueing check on the valve sealing surfaces. As, for cleaning carbon deposits, I just soak the cylinder head/s in a less hazardous cleaning solution called “Lightning Cleaner”, letting it soak for a while & simply rinse off the cylinder head /s with hot water. This will give a absolute pristine part to accomplish the blueing check to identify where the defects are.
Hi Brent,how this valve get bent?We didnt see when you turn engine,but still I cant understand!From previous videos,there are no mistakes.Thank you for this video series and effort to made it.Cant wait next video.
About 1:40, dang they ain't nothing left! But hey I got my 139qmb running better, part of it was the float adjustment, although it seems a bit high, it does still cut out occasionally but runs much better, I think the CVT is overheating. When it gets hot the rpm drops and drops, eventually struggling to do 6900 rpm, I have a new CVT cover, so I'm going to vent the crap out of the old one, I don't have the little fan on the drive pulley anymore, the nut came loose, and the cover are it! It does have a fan on the clutch bell, and the TQ spring has lost so much tension, even cold it doesn't have what it did, I had to drop the slider weight from 8g to 7g, actually 7.9g to 7.1g and either need to change the spring, or go to 6 gram, I think the actual weight us 6.2g, before the 6g turned 9300 at about 15-20 mph, and normally, cold the 7g turns around 8500 before settled at 7990-8200, but hot it struggles to do 7k, and as it gets hotter, I can see the revs drop, the tach shows a 10rpm res. So it keeps dropping, and speed slowly picks up, for a bit, then it starts dropping also, it just doesn't have the power to keep it going, if it's slightly up hill, it starts pinging, and I have to stop! But the other day, when I finally got it running right, I was on one wheel! I almost flipped it! I was not expecting that, I was testing the variator, to see if it was starting out in the lower ratio, it was shifting before the clutch grabbed, I guess it would be best to get the variator kit, especially when starting with a basket case/ dumpster fire like I did! The reason I went with a bbk, is it didn't have compression, it was ran without exhaust, and no air filter, only the tube to the rear tire, the carb is full of fine dust, so I replaced everything! It supposed to have 3k miles on it, that dust in the carb sets up like concrete, I could barely get a steel drill bit through the jet to clean it! But I guess the CVT issues is because I bought cheap springs! I think $7 for clutch and TQ springs, atleast half most others, it's the 1.5k and unknown clutch spring, it grabs about 4.8-5k +/-, I think I'm going to vent the cover, swap to the 2k spring, and go back to the 8g weights, hopefully that will do it, I think I'm going to swap to a 150/171, I'm not going to get enough power from the 50/81cc , my average speed is around 20mph, I can get to 40-45, but a 150 with 171kit, built like this engine, with big valve head, should atleast maintain a 40-45 mph average, a cam, ported big valve head, exhaust, and a gear, I haven't found out if I should go with 12" or 10" rear rim, because of gear ratios, I don't want to have a too low ratio, as far as length, short or long case doesn't matter, I wouldn't mind a bit of a slight ruckus stretch, maybe 6-8", I don't want any craziness! But a slight stretch and a drop is more like it, maybe 2" drop, and 6" stretch, hoping to make it more stable, a 12"rear, keeping the 10" front, if the gearing is good, I want to keep the 50cc look, even though they make large wheel 50's 12" and 13" seem to be used on 150's 10&12's on 50's, and 16" used on some sym 50's the large rims are more stable , but could start looking like a 150! I can build the mounting bracket! I just need to get it done fast, I have thought about buying a new scoot for a dependable ride, but $$ doesn't grow on trees, of course I'd have to bbk it. And exhaust, and a few other goodies, I may as well fix the other scoot I have, ride it while I swap the other, I still have the naraku 52mm bbk, with big valve head, fully ported, I guess I'll put it on the other scoot, completely building the engine, maybe with a stroker crank, but definitely add the oil cooler, weld and drill and tap the case while it's apart, for the oil cooler! Sorry to ramble!
You should be able to pick up a fan for the variator cheap, so I'd suggest replacing that if you keep using this engine. I agree about trying different springs to see if they fade less with heat.
Hopefully, there won't be a next time, but a strip of aluminum cut from a soda can can protect that from the lathe jaws--and it's reasonably uniform in thickness. I'm sorry about the part wait. : ( I hope Yamaha knows that we are watching.
Of course right after I gave up and got the vid done and uploaded, I got an email that they are shipping the other parts. When I saw the email, I thought it was going to say November, so no complaints here!
Today I watched low-rev F1 engines.Veterane cars.And in air inlet,open chrome tube.It had a 2-3 mm nozzle,or smaller.Compressed air from vaccum in cylinder.MAY BE WRONG.Many nozzles in intake.Carburettor,and a jet engine are time-glass shape.Narrower on mid.To accelrate air,from atmosphere pressure,to compressed air.Fan suction,not vaccum.
Hey good afternoon brent hope all is well....i gat a few tips from you for my yamaha jog which is now a 70cc a d malossi variator...my question is is there any way i could use my electric starter to start up the bike?? Because the batter on the bike onlt tumbels it over but when i jump it with my car battery it starts up
I used to start 90-100cc engines with the stock starter on my Chinese clone engines. I do know that there were good and bad versions of those starters. I'm not sure if there's a high torque starter for the Jog or maybe the starter from a Chinese clone could work (Polaris 90 ATVs are a good source for those). Before going to much trouble, check the battery condition. Could just be a weak battery. Another option is an Li battery. Some of those have a lot of cranking amps in a small, light package.
I quit working on them for other people years ago. The problem is that I like scooters more than people. Too many late, no show, I promise I'm good for the $, I know it's Sunday and you're busy but do me a favor, spend an hour talking about performance mods and then never getting anything done.... All of that and there are barely any scoots close to me (the beaches are 1.5-2hr each way from here) so I never had much business anyway.
@@49ccscoot damn sounds like u have had some not so good people ... let me introduce myself, I’m Zack and I love scooters period , I have 2 kids that are 3 n 2 , my only sane making activity is purchasing scooters , I currently have a custom Honda elite being built at SSS , I also have a 2010 ruckus I just bought but I’m terrible with wrench work , can barley change license plate , I need new handlebars put new rims n tires an maybe new stem
@@zwest549 Have you ever been to Scooter City in Rehoboth? Way closer and a couple of guys that are on the forum work and hang out there. They've both got custom scoots and it looks like they do good work. That said, I have no personal experience with the place. If you happen to be going by, it may be worth stopping in one day to see what the vibe is like.
Robisz mega filmiki 😎 mimo napisów cały czas czego się dowiadujemy 😄
18:48 had me laughing at the screen. Can I request an entire helium episode for April Fools Day?
Good job Bro 👍🏻
At what?
Thanks
Nice Video 👍
Great video and wish I knew half of what you know about engines would save me a lot of money getting my bike repaired and serviced,I should of went to school more and mechanic courses so I wouldn’t be a skint thick idiot now
Keep up your good work 👍🏻
I want to see a test e85 on the 2 stroke
I don't know if that'll happen, because there's not much of it around me. It's 140 mile round trip to the nearest station with E85.
@@49ccscoot ok don't worry then, I thought that in usa you had gas stations with e85 every 5 kms hahaha 🤣🤣
@@jona_ej2330 Depends what part of the US you're in.
Thanks a lot. Great video!
Bravissimo ,,,complimenti top nel spiegare ,bel lavoro
Io possido un t max anno 2006 ,la catena e guida della catena e spingi catena quando km vanno sostuiti.,,,
Wow such a lot of work on old valves. Would it not be more efficient to replace the lot. If you are doing this professionally all that Labour would be more expensive than replacing the valves.
It's something like $200 in valves to replace them all, but I wanted to see how everything was doing while I was at it. Honestly, most of the routine service doesn't make a lot of sense to do in a professional shop. The bill for the complete service manual spec service would make it almost more practical to replace the scooter.
Once again, awesome video! I am curious why only one valve per cyclinder is bent but not in pairs. I would expect Exhaust 1A and 1B to be both bent and Intake 2A and 2B as well.
This is what I have done... instead of wasting time, you know/suspect leakage and you have the cylinder head removed & sitting on the work bench. So, go ahead with the complete disassembly to prep for cleaning & perform a blueing check on the valve sealing surfaces.
As, for cleaning carbon deposits, I just soak the cylinder head/s in a less hazardous cleaning solution called “Lightning Cleaner”, letting it soak for a while & simply rinse off the cylinder head /s with hot water. This will give a absolute pristine part to accomplish the blueing check to identify where the defects are.
When does the rc-one build start?
Not sure.
Hi Brent,how this valve get bent?We didnt see when you turn engine,but still I cant understand!From previous videos,there are no mistakes.Thank you for this video series and effort to made it.Cant wait next video.
It's all explained in the previous TMAX video at the 1hr5min mark. Here's a link directly to it :
ua-cam.com/video/Y-ftcJ_0M8c/v-deo.html
About 1:40, dang they ain't nothing left!
But hey I got my 139qmb running better, part of it was the float adjustment, although it seems a bit high, it does still cut out occasionally but runs much better, I think the CVT is overheating. When it gets hot the rpm drops and drops, eventually struggling to do 6900 rpm, I have a new CVT cover, so I'm going to vent the crap out of the old one, I don't have the little fan on the drive pulley anymore, the nut came loose, and the cover are it! It does have a fan on the clutch bell, and the TQ spring has lost so much tension, even cold it doesn't have what it did, I had to drop the slider weight from 8g to 7g, actually 7.9g to 7.1g and either need to change the spring, or go to 6 gram, I think the actual weight us 6.2g, before the 6g turned 9300 at about 15-20 mph, and normally, cold the 7g turns around 8500 before settled at 7990-8200, but hot it struggles to do 7k, and as it gets hotter, I can see the revs drop, the tach shows a 10rpm res. So it keeps dropping, and speed slowly picks up, for a bit, then it starts dropping also, it just doesn't have the power to keep it going, if it's slightly up hill, it starts pinging, and I have to stop! But the other day, when I finally got it running right, I was on one wheel! I almost flipped it! I was not expecting that, I was testing the variator, to see if it was starting out in the lower ratio, it was shifting before the clutch grabbed, I guess it would be best to get the variator kit, especially when starting with a basket case/ dumpster fire like I did! The reason I went with a bbk, is it didn't have compression, it was ran without exhaust, and no air filter, only the tube to the rear tire, the carb is full of fine dust, so I replaced everything! It supposed to have 3k miles on it, that dust in the carb sets up like concrete, I could barely get a steel drill bit through the jet to clean it! But I guess the CVT issues is because I bought cheap springs! I think $7 for clutch and TQ springs, atleast half most others, it's the 1.5k and unknown clutch spring, it grabs about 4.8-5k +/-, I think I'm going to vent the cover, swap to the 2k spring, and go back to the 8g weights, hopefully that will do it, I think I'm going to swap to a 150/171, I'm not going to get enough power from the 50/81cc , my average speed is around 20mph, I can get to 40-45, but a 150 with 171kit, built like this engine, with big valve head, should atleast maintain a 40-45 mph average, a cam, ported big valve head, exhaust, and a gear, I haven't found out if I should go with 12" or 10" rear rim, because of gear ratios, I don't want to have a too low ratio, as far as length, short or long case doesn't matter, I wouldn't mind a bit of a slight ruckus stretch, maybe 6-8", I don't want any craziness! But a slight stretch and a drop is more like it, maybe 2" drop, and 6" stretch, hoping to make it more stable, a 12"rear, keeping the 10" front, if the gearing is good, I want to keep the 50cc look, even though they make large wheel 50's 12" and 13" seem to be used on 150's 10&12's on 50's, and 16" used on some sym 50's the large rims are more stable , but could start looking like a 150! I can build the mounting bracket! I just need to get it done fast, I have thought about buying a new scoot for a dependable ride, but $$ doesn't grow on trees, of course I'd have to bbk it. And exhaust, and a few other goodies, I may as well fix the other scoot I have, ride it while I swap the other, I still have the naraku 52mm bbk, with big valve head, fully ported, I guess I'll put it on the other scoot, completely building the engine, maybe with a stroker crank, but definitely add the oil cooler, weld and drill and tap the case while it's apart, for the oil cooler! Sorry to ramble!
You should be able to pick up a fan for the variator cheap, so I'd suggest replacing that if you keep using this engine. I agree about trying different springs to see if they fade less with heat.
As with everything lately, it's a waiting game. 😞
Let's hope they get here sooner than later.
I just got an email that they shipped today, almost a full month sooner than the estimated.
We had some chilli beans with cheese, I think I bent a valve too!
awsome!
Hopefully, there won't be a next time, but a strip of aluminum cut from a soda can can protect that from the lathe jaws--and it's reasonably uniform in thickness.
I'm sorry about the part wait. : (
I hope Yamaha knows that we are watching.
Of course right after I gave up and got the vid done and uploaded, I got an email that they are shipping the other parts. When I saw the email, I thought it was going to say November, so no complaints here!
Today I watched low-rev F1 engines.Veterane cars.And in air inlet,open chrome tube.It had a 2-3 mm nozzle,or smaller.Compressed air from vaccum in cylinder.MAY BE WRONG.Many nozzles in intake.Carburettor,and a jet engine are time-glass shape.Narrower on mid.To accelrate air,from atmosphere pressure,to compressed air.Fan suction,not vaccum.
Hey good afternoon brent hope all is well....i gat a few tips from you for my yamaha jog which is now a 70cc a d malossi variator...my question is is there any way i could use my electric starter to start up the bike?? Because the batter on the bike onlt tumbels it over but when i jump it with my car battery it starts up
I used to start 90-100cc engines with the stock starter on my Chinese clone engines. I do know that there were good and bad versions of those starters. I'm not sure if there's a high torque starter for the Jog or maybe the starter from a Chinese clone could work (Polaris 90 ATVs are a good source for those). Before going to much trouble, check the battery condition. Could just be a weak battery. Another option is an Li battery. Some of those have a lot of cranking amps in a small, light package.
Do u accept local work on scooters? I live in lewes de , love your channel !
I quit working on them for other people years ago. The problem is that I like scooters more than people. Too many late, no show, I promise I'm good for the $, I know it's Sunday and you're busy but do me a favor, spend an hour talking about performance mods and then never getting anything done.... All of that and there are barely any scoots close to me (the beaches are 1.5-2hr each way from here) so I never had much business anyway.
@@49ccscoot damn sounds like u have had some not so good people ... let me introduce myself, I’m Zack and I love scooters period , I have 2 kids that are 3 n 2 , my only sane making activity is purchasing scooters , I currently have a custom Honda elite being built at SSS , I also have a 2010 ruckus I just bought but I’m terrible with wrench work , can barley change license plate , I need new handlebars put new rims n tires an maybe new stem
@@zwest549 Have you ever been to Scooter City in Rehoboth? Way closer and a couple of guys that are on the forum work and hang out there. They've both got custom scoots and it looks like they do good work. That said, I have no personal experience with the place. If you happen to be going by, it may be worth stopping in one day to see what the vibe is like.
@@49ccscoot I have heard mixed reviews but mainly poor ones , ur channel is great and I personally think ur one of the best
@@zwest549 That sucks. I was hoping they'd be a good shop with people that are actually into tuning.
Yo