A DIY Lawn Core Aerator For $160?? You'd be surprised!!
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- Опубліковано 8 лип 2024
- In this video, I run you thru the simple process of building your own lawn core aerator while not breaking the bank & can even get all your supplies from your local hardware store. Hope you enjoy.
Links:
Tines 1 amzn.to/3D3ci4z
Tines 2 amzn.to/3ggapbT
-Threaded Rode - www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-...
Steel Pipes: www.homedepot.com/p/The-Plumb...
Chapters:
0:00 - Intro
0:40 - Supplies
1:32 - Wheel & Tine Line Up
3:35 - Handlebar
4:05 - Spacer
4:18 - Assembly
6:24 - Test Run #1
7:09 - Test Run #2
8:25 - The Cores
8:49 - Outro
MUSIC:
-Cloudy Dreams - Rambutan: https: //www.epidemicsound.com/track/f3WrwcgSun/
-Corner Store - Gregory David: https: //www.epidemicsound.com/track/1x1JyOU1d9/
-Kvambole - Spring Gang: https: //www.epidemicsound.com/track/Hx39rfMI3H/
-On Cruise Control - Mindserver Unlimited: www.epidemicsound.com/track/K...
-Slide On Me - Zorro: https: //www.epidemicsound.com/track/sQrh4ubnjd/
-Twin Peaks - Gregory David: www.epidemicsound.com/track/U...
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Disclaimer:
*The links in my description are affiliate links, which mean if you purchase a product from the links, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps support my channel, so I thank you very much in advance for your support.
**The contents of this video are intended for entertainment and informational purposes only as they are based on my opinions and should not to be taken as professional advise.
Hands down the best diy core aerator I’ve seen. Bravo sir.
Hey, thank you. I worked hard on this one. Appreciate your comment. 👍
Beautiful build, before this I was going crazy trying to find a cheap aerator machine, but not anymore, thanx!!!
I like how compact the tool is,won't take up a lot of space when storing.
Great video!! Loved the pictures!
Yes!ade one out of wood and metal tines. Cut on CNC machine. Wood was not heavy enough, put large dumbbells on sides but made it very to fully control but luckily my yard was small. Water your yard before or it will be walking all over. Great walkthrough!
Well, I was thinking about getting a manual, stomp aerator, but now I'm rethinking things. Great project!
Loved the creativity brother! Good design. I too have thick clay soil and it's been a chore getting through
This worked like a charm, ordered those prefab tines and used two 25lb weights - thanks for sharing!
Hey, I'm glad it worked out for you.
Great idea and video.
You need an award my friend...Thank you
Hey, thank you. 👍
At first glance I though this could not be effective BUT then I compared it to my commercial Plugr, now sold by Billy Goat. It weighs 350lb and has 8 rows of tines, about 44 lbs. per tine. The Plugr, with the tines mounted on a crankshaft, the plugging force would not be a direct comparison. But the Plugr sold for north of $5K when new. For a small lawn your design is budget friendly for the DIY homeowner.
Albert this is super helpful!! The only thing I'm going to do differently is to buy tines because I don't think I have the tools to cut the pipe and that seems to be the most time consuming part of this project. Thank you very much!
Nice Albert, very creative and efficient. Thank you
Hey, thank you. 👍
Great build, thanks for sharing!
Hey, thank you. If you build it, let me know how it goes.
This is a great tool you made sir!! Thank you so much!!!
Hey, thank you.
Great job!!! Thank you! I plan on building one like yours!
Thank you and have fun. 👍
Great idea.
Hey, thanks. 👍
Love it. It's now on my list to build
Finished the build and my test run showed I may have had to much weight as I was all over the place but it's very promising. It seems like you get a better penetration into the lawn the faster you move. Tomorrow will be a proper test run with about 30lb
what a great video thx for posting
Brilliant - thank you for sharing!
Hey, no problem. I hope it works well for you. 👍
Dude , right on impressed I appreciate you and for sharing looks like fun ... awesome hack 👍stay bless brother
Hey, thank you so much brother.
This beat paying $500 for the amick aerator. lol
it's $500 now? I got one few years ago and it was around $200 and he shipped the new double disk version because it took him over 2 weeks to fill my order. it works but if you have a large yard say over 4-5000 sq. ft, you might want to look into a power one as it is very tiring and hard work. my yard is about 14,000 sq yd.
@@MrRichardyc they're charging me about $65 for aeration to do my 1200 sq ft lawn. Been going up every year. So this year I just finally pulled the trigger of making my own and finished it on Thursday. Works as expected thanks to this video. Cost less than $80 to make because I have most of the materials. For the weight I used two used rotors that I got from my neighbor.
Having that size of a lawn like you would be so tiresome for this manual aerator. It can be a workout by itself.
Thats pretty cool. Nice cores
Hey, thanks. 👍
Excellent 👍🏾
This came up in my feed. Love this DIY, you just gave me an idea. New subscriber here.
Hey, glad my video helps you in some way. Thanks for subscribing.
Very cool. I think ill try this design but add maybe two additional disks. Thanks
Wow I was thinking of making one out of steal but the wood looks cool too
Молодец !спасибо за идею .
This would probably be great to add in the center of a 2 wheel wheel barrow, loaded w a few bags of cement.. for solid red clay lawn
25lb used plate, some JB weld or 2 part epoxy, and a wooden handle. Great design.
That’s cool Albert.. great video..glad ran into your video. I didn’t want to spend on a core machine
I'm glad my video can help you in some way.
I might be doing this.The cool thing is, I have pretty much everything in my garage except for the metal pipe 👍🏻 this is why I keep" junk" my wife hates it but it usually comes in handy
Lol, I have a "junk" section as well. Hope it's an easy build for you. 👍
I would definitely make this a multi-wheel model and I would buy actual core aerator tines versus cutting the pipe myself so more expense but less labor and the manufactured tines will probably work better but this video is outstanding work! Thank You
Hey, thank you. Glad you liked it. When it comes to manufactured tines, try to get ones with the tip openings being 3/4" to 1". I had some about 1/2" and they did not work great.
This is such a cool idea. I was thinking one could use old brake rotors, they are heavy and might be able to get them for free or low price since old ones are kind of useless. The only thing is the center hole is bigger of course, but nothing that can’t be worked on. Thanks for sharing, this is awesome!
Hey, glad you like it.
Good idea! And welding!
nice. i would do this if i didnt buy the AMICK one already. i think the cut out on your tines are necessary. the one from amick doesnt have cut outs. and thats something that the big machines have. good job either way, i think im gonna go cut out the openings now.
Very cool,
Genious
Looks great man. I tempted to make my own but kept failing and took it all apart. It was mostly the same concept as your but I had used a set of old Brake Rotors and for the handle bar I used a mower handle bar. Now that I seen your results I'm going to try again. Thank you for this video and keep that lawn looking great 👍
Hey, thank you so much. Glad you found my video helpful. Hope this works out for you.
Dud you press drill the rotor? What kind of drill bit you use?
@Brian Malubag yes I did use a drill press. You can do it with just a regular drill but it's takes longer and it's hard cause if the holes aren't straight your going to have a hard time getting the bolts to go through. And the bits were some from O'Reilly. They were short and made for cutting through metal. Be sure to take your time making the hole that way you don't go through drill bits like I did. Maybe use lubricant to prevent to much heat. GOOD LUCK 👍
Hey! I watched your tutorial for like a week straight. I copied your blueprints but used 1" steel (13in diameter.) For a double setup. ❤ thank you!
Ps. I took a bunch of pics but no where to post them so that I could tag you. 🥰😇
Sweet. I'm glad it all worked out for you. 😀
Great build, I might look at using proper hollow tines which should eject cores cleaner. thanks
Hey, thank you. I agree, you may get better and cleaner cores with proper times. Give it a shot and let me know how it goes if you get a chance. 👍
Great video. You asked for suggestions…..a welder would enable a simpler prep and assembly process, eliminating the wooden centre hub and the u bolts, drilling etc. using full length pipes to make an initial cross shape, then cutting and fitting in two more at the 45degree positions, to make a 8 spoked frame. Self supporting with no chance of any tines slipping out of position. Steel plate of any kind would be welded in the centre, on both sides, for support of the axle as reinforcement, and also add weight. Your build is practical and I like it, especially for those with no access to welder. Thank you for the video…I will be making a version very soon.
I wish I had a welder. Honestly, as I was drawing up the sketches for this aerator (which had about 3 versions) a welder came up a few times. But yeah, this build is more for the every day person. If you ever build your version just the way you described, I really hope to see a video of it.
@@vandit0o0o Maybe make a mkii with an arc welder. Ads will pay for it right?
I used old an old brake rotor and added some extra weights. Welding the tines was way more time consuming than I thought it would be. Plus welds didn't want to stick well to the rotor. Honestly using plywood and drilling is probably a lot quicker than welding, plus you can always replace a tine if necessary. As long as the plywood holds up, this method does seem better.
@@Soupy_loopy Using a break rotor was originally my first option for this build. I think either method has it's pros and cons, but I agree that having most parts be easily replaceable would probably be that most convenient way to go.
I got 2 spare rims, a dead trailer and old steel table legs for practising welding. On the bottom of the to do list. pull it while mowing the lawns.
You could put a circle of tines between each weight and staggered them, making it 3 times as wide and taking 1/3 of the time to do the same area.
it may be worth a try. but each tine that punctures the soil is added resistance so you may need 3x more weight if you are trying to puncture 3 holes instead of 1.
for durability of the hole in the plywood i would suggest a bearing.
thats cool if you have decent soil. here we have clay and rock. i weigh 180 and without somewhere around 500 you cant get consistent holes everywhere. we have to rent one and weigh it down.
Wow, I'm sorry to hear that. Where I'm at we have tons of rocks and that's annoying enough, I can't imagine having to deal with clay.
nice
You've got some good looking soil.
Yeah, it's not bad. Hit some good size rocks every now and then, but my tines are holding up.
Seen this done with old brake discs.
I'd probably two wheel this sucker since the weight is good, and keep the weights on the inside.... like 4" between airated wholes.
Nice build homey.
Thank you. I do keep getting ask to build a 2 wheeled one so I hope it works well for you. I was just worried that it wouldn't be fun to use, but it looks like I may just have to two wheel mine as well. Let me know how yours works out.
Solid, very ingenious. Wonder if adding a second coring wheel with a larger spacer in between makes any sense? Keep up the good work!
Hey, thank you. Adding a second wheel will be one of my project for this summer. Although I feel that I may have to add more weight to make all the tins stab into the ground a little deeper, which will eventually make it not fun to use, but we shall see.
I will build it. Now, where's that neighbor kid???
I noticed when I airate my lawn after a couple weeks the grass grows nice and green but also the weeds grow to, faster than the grass. I did it the summer and got crabgrass, I did it in the fall and got POA, each time I throw down some seeds and fertilizer, next time when I aerate I'm going to just throw down pre-emergent and fertilizer, I'll see what happens.
You may also want to look into some liquid weed killer. Either from a hose end bottle or a concentrate that you spray from a pump spray. I've had some luck with those. Also, bag your grass clippings to prevent spreading the weed seeds around your lawn. Hope this helps.
Thanks! As I watch I think to myself I've got all that stuff already" I'm thinking I'm going to use double-wheel hubs, I have a mig, and I'm going to use mostly junk
So I built this and finally gave it a try today. My grass is still too high so I just tested it in a dirt area. Can you give me any advice on what I might have done wrong? I did get a plug here and there but the tines seemed to just be digging up the ground and pulling up dirt. It looked like I had used garden weasel. There was packed dirt covering the outside of the tines. A few things worth mentioning:
1. I ended up buying the tines and they had a slight curve in them. I tried pointing them sideways (so they'd be facing the same way in both directions) and then I adjusted them to face in one direction figuring I'd just pick it up and rotate it when I got to the end of the lawn. Both ways had the same result.
2. I'm in the northeast and we've gotten a lot of rain. It rained as recently as last night so I did this maybe 12 hours after it had rained. While the soil wasn't necessarily muddy it was pretty soft.
3. Rather than two inches I tried three inch depth. I did not make that adjustment and won't get a chance to for at least a week.
Hey there, I'm sorry you're running into some issues. So to start off, depending on your soil type and how much rain it received, I'd wait either a day or two before aerating. I recommend this because the soil can become "sticky" when still to moist. You'll have to play around with that to figure out how long you'll have to wait before aerating after rain or regular watering. Also, I have the same curved tines you are describing. I used those for my first 2 prototypes and I had some success with them, but not as much as with my straight tines. Don't forget to spray some lubricant on the in's and out's of all the tines, I found this very helpful. Maybe you could sand your tines (inside and outside) to make them smoother so the soil slides in and out easier. Other than that, with your curved tines just keep playing with them to hopefully give you better results. I'll admit, in my experience, my straight tines gave me much better cores and are easier to clean. If your notice, curved tines are usually found on much smaller axles or wheels, so I'm sure their angle of attack greatly affects their performance. Let me know is this helps.
When a rollaerator costs $500 and made of junk yard scraps... $160 for the same seems pretty good.
Speaking of junk yards, most cities have a construction material recycler you can shop at. Toy stores for diy'ers 😉
What I would change ... buy or cut a spear end on the tines so the penetrations' would be easier. Thank you for the info. after pricing one like unto yours at $500, I could build 3, and sell 2 so my cost and labor would be basically on the profit side.
Are you referring to something like a 45deg cut on the end like a bamboo spear/punji stick? That should definitely help with soil penetration.
@@vervi1jw1 Exactly.
Great build. I’ve looked for 3/4” pre-made tines without the angle without much success. Any suggestions? Thanks for the video
Thanks. I may have seen some. Let me get back to you.
Looks similar to the Amick RollAerator...almost identical
You just need to figure out a way to attach it to the rear wheels of your mower and you are good to go.
Currently half wat through building one of these. Going with a 10 degree angle on the tips of the tines. Also cut the tines about 3/4 inch longer just because I used a single piece of 4 foot pipe and thought it would be good to make them slightly longer. Prob going to use 2 x 20 pound weights as its cheaper than the smaller weights where I live and should be simpler and cleaner.
Hey, that all sound good. 40lbs sound like good weight. Are you going to paint or stain it? If you keep it outta the elements, you could also leave it all natural.
@@vandit0o0o Yeah I am going to paint it with green hammertone paint.Ended up buying the 4 x 10lbs weights because the 20s are too big. Just have to make the handle and I will be ready to assemble. Do you have an email or facebook or something I can send you some photos?
@@richardportelli1983 FB, I'm under Albert Rodriguez. I got a red shirt & gray cap on in case you get to many results. Im planning on making a FB page for my channel later.
@@vandit0o0o I think I found you. Couldn't find a red shirt lol.
@@richardportelli1983 Hmm, yeah red shirt and my wife is next to me wearing blue.
This looks so effortless on your lawn. I can't help but think it wouldn't work as well on my lawn though. I had a Fiskars step on aerator with 2 tines and I had to put my bodyweight (250lbs) and rock it back and forth to work it into the ground. A weld ended up failing at the base of the handle and I returned it. My lawn was not maintained by the previous homeowner for 20-30 years so I think there is a compaction problem
But maybe the Fiskars aerator was just too dull 🤷
I agree that compaction could be one of the issues since 250 lbs wasn't working out. Maybe try liquid aeration first, with a few days of deep watering. You should be able to drive a screwdriver into your lawn with some easy before core aerating. I hope this helps.
Great Video!! How did you cut small pipes into core tines please? What tool did you use? I’m getting ready to make my own 👍🏼 Thank You!!
Thanks. I used the same tool in the video. A grinder with a thin cutting disk to cut the pipes in half and the core ejection cut outs. Then using the grinding disk to grind smooth the tips of the tines.
Nice job! Have you considered a second wheel? Double the result for the same energy spent and increase stabilization.
Thank you John. Yes, I get asked that a lot so the next upgrade video will be trying it out with a second wheel. As it is, it's already very stable. I think it will also depend on your soil type if the same energy will be spent as some may need to add a few more pounds to better penetrate into the ground. Either way, it'll be a fun project. 👍
I thought of that too, but that would mean you need more weight to make the tines sink in, and it could become difficult to push. I saw a guy testing a 3 and 5 tine manual aerator that you have to push down into the soil and noticed he had a much much harder time pushing down 5 tines than 3. Seemed crazy how much more energy it took.
I wonder if it is possible to add another wheel or 2 for being more efficient.
You definitely can. My pervious model had 2 wheels, but my weight had to be heavier to have the tines go down deep enough. I personally just found it more fun having one wheel for on on this model. Hope this helps.
Wonder if you could add 10-15 more wheels
Hi- I like your DIY aerator! My yard is significantly larger than yours (131 ft wide by 50 ft deep). Would your model still be practical?
I think you should have two wheels it should handle easier
to handle & pull more cores with each pass.
In my other builds before this one, I did have 2 wheels. The reason I did one wheel on this one was to show a simpler build. But, a future modification video will more than likely be adding a second wheel.
Nice build! Found this video looking for an alternative to the Amick. I’m thinking about potentially replacing the wood handle/extension w telescoping square tubing on your design…. So I can collapse it for storage. Any recommendations for “straight” hollow tines? Trying to avoid grinding metal pipe. But the tines you tried are slightly curved, and for obvious reasons need to sit flat.
Hello. I really like your idea of a telescoping tube for the handle. So the tines I installed on my build are straight since I cut them from a straight pipe. The curved ones are on the first link on the descriptions. For whatever reason, straight tines from the web are very expensive and have a little more bulk to them, but they're out there. The curved tines will work just fine. On my pervious build, I used the curves tines, but I wanted the holes a little bigger which is why I went with a 3/4" pipe. Hope this helps.
@@vandit0o0o question, when you installed the pipe, was there any particular reason why you didn’t or couldn’t install the Ubolts around the threaded portion of the pipe? I’ve read the Amick tines have a notch in them, which the Ubolts clamp onto to prevent the tines from pushing back in towards the center of the wheel as it hits resistance going into the ground.
Thanks for posting this, I had come up with a very similar idea and I'm happy to see that it can work. Could you explain the reason for having two nuts at each end of the axle, and why they need to be tightened in the manner you describe at 5:22 ?
Hi there, great question. The nuts on each side are there to keep the wheel in place and stable. If you don't tighten the nuts the way I showed, they eventually start to spin loose by the wheel or weights as you're using the aerator. Tightening the nuts towards each other will lock them in place.
@@vandit0o0o Hi Albert, great video. I’ve been trying to come up with an idea for a corer for a while and you’ve just made my day, with your invention! I shall be working towards constructing one in the near future. A suggestion, if I may. Instead of using two nuts on the shaft, you could use some NyLok nuts, which will stay in position but can be altered or removed if need be! Thanks for your wonderful contribution to gardening! Look forward to many more.
@@johnnytungsong8719 Hey Johnny, thanks for your comment. I did consider some lock nuts, but I was trying to keep the cost as low as possible. I'm really glad my video helps you out. I worked really hard on this one. I got a update video coming out soon. Have a good one.
Is there a reason you didn't make 2 plug wheels and maybe put 1-2 weights in-between so can get 2 rows of plugs instead of one? Or is it not enough weight to move 2 wheels? Thanks for sharing, this was very helpful.
I wanted to show that it was possible to make a very affordable core aerator so that's why I kept it to one wheel. Plus I wasn't sure how easy 2 wheels was going to be to use. I've gotten so many requests to make mine a double wheel so it may happen this summer.
How do the tines stay in place? It doesn't like there's a groove holding them with the U bolt. With the clay soil where I live, I'd be afraid the tines would be pushed out of the U bolts like they were a core of dirt.
I don't think you'll have to worry about the tines. Once in place, the u-bolts hold them in place very well. I've used my aerator a lot and haven't notice the tines move at all.
Do you think adding tires, obviously not as larger as how far the cores stick out, would ease the weight needed to push it? Or do you think it wouldnt be effective?
I think the tines would not be to stable due to the flexibility of the tire. Over all the weight would still depend of your soil type.
I’d prefer all metal like a couple brake rotors instead of the ply board.
So build one
Hey Albert, what Lubricant did you use on your Tines...Thanks Darrell
WD-40 Silicone
How Well does it work on compacted / clay soil ? I may build it but add more weight?
I haven't had the opportunity to use it on clay soil. I did find out that there are serval methods of softening clay soil like adding gypsum or organic materials and sand. If you end up building this, could you let me know how it goes on your soil type so I can share? I've been asked before about how the aerator works on clay soil.
Build one with multiple rows at least a foot wide. Put an electric motor on it and a platform on top. Hook a car battery or deep cycle boat battery (not sure which would be better) on the platform for weight to the electric motor and bam. Powered core aerator. Use a refrigerator cart for the frame and mount your core assembly on the bottom of it so you can tilt it back and use the wheels for turning around and moving it. Add a switch to it for on and off as well.
Well, going electric is popular now. Lol. Wow, very impressive. So how well does it work for you?
@@vandit0o0o I haven’t built one. Just an idea that popped into my head while watching the video and thinking someone could build something better.
Outstanding! Can you make me one?
Hey, thanks. Lol, I made sure to detail my video so you could easily build your own. I can answer your questions along your build if needed.
If I wanted a 4 inch deep hole over your 2 inch hole if that would translate to 2 times the weight. I understand that soil conditions would play a part. Just trying to get a WAG...
Good question. Hmm, if I was trying to 4" cores using this build I'd be worried that the holes will be wide ovals. Is there a reason why you're trying to get 4" cores? When it comes to the weight, yes it would depend on the soil conditions. I would liquid areate, then water for maybe a 2 days (1" of water a day) test a few cores about 2-3 days later and water more if needed to get deeper cores. Hope this helps.
Just wondering how did you come up with 7 tines? Experimented different number of tines at the designing stage? Thanks for the video.
Hey there, good question. 7 tines just balanced out for the dimension of my wheel. I didn't want to many tines to close together and not have the tines be able penetrate as deep. Also, I didn't want have to add more weight than necessary. So, I needed enough clearance between the tine fully in the ground before the next tine started to penetrate. I hope this helps.
Balanced out for the dimension of wheel - so why you chose the diameter of wheel to be 13 inches? Why not more than 2 inches out on the tines? How do you measure for 7 tines on a 13 inch circle?
Hey Albert. Question? I built according to your video. I’ve got two wheels and 40 lbs weights. When I tried it the tines filled with dirt and wouldn’t expel the plug. It has been very dry but recently rained for a couple days. When I tried to clean the tines it was very difficult. The plugs were tightly packed in the tines. I was thinking it was too wet for the plugs to move through the tines. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks again
Hey Brain, so yes if the soil is still too wet/moist it will tend to stick more. If the soil is to dry/hard, the tines may have a harder time penetrating into the ground. On your tines, did you also sand/grind down the inside of the tines (in the inside tips that will go into the ground) and spray the tines with a lubricant? It truly does make a difference. I have little to no issues when it comes to cleaning and the tines becoming plugged up. Question, is 40lbs enough weight with your 2 wheels or are you using more? What soil type do you have? Let me know if this helps?
@vandit0o0o Thanks very much. I'll grind the tips some more and try a lubricant. The 40 lbs seems plenty. The tines fill up on both wheels. The plugs just don't move once they're full. I'll work with it a bit. Thanks again for your time Albert. Brian
I'm still not sure why the curved tines can't be used, but I did find one company called Green Scott that makes and sells straight tines, but the minimum you can buy is 25 for $100. It looks like a small company and may sell a person fewer for less if you talk with them.
So the curved one can be used, they may just not work like the straight tines in my opinion. $100 is a bit pricey. And then what would you do with all the extra tines you don't need. Maybe call them up and see if they could work with you to only order what you need without having to buy so many.
Great diy tool, but it will be better with at lease 8 or 10 rolls of pipes or a roller will be better.
Very nice. I was wondering...in your prototypes, did you try or consider cutting the pipe at an angle to give the business end of the tine a beveled edge(pointy tip)? I just got my supplies tonight for this weekend project and was wondering if it would help the point penetrate the ground more efficiently or if in your experience, you discovered a drawback to doing this.
Great question. Most commercial grade tines have the angle to their tips. The reason I didn't make angles is because i believe those are meant to go in one direction, rotate the whole machine and continue. I needed mine to go in both for convenience. So you reach the end of your yard, move the handles to push in the opposite direction without having to rotate the whole thing. If you want to try cutting angles to your tines, I wouldn't recommend making them to aggressive. I hope I'm explaining this clearly. If this doesn't sense let me know and I'll continue to try to explain. I hope this build works for you as it did for me. Send me any more questions you may have.
I would think having the angled tip would work fine as long as the angle was facing away from or toward the wheel and not in the same line. Maybe even left then right then left, etc. This way, it wouldn't matter which direction it was pushed.
@@tomholley6904 That's very true. I didn't even consider that. I think it's worth trying out. At least with my soil, I'm not having any issues with the tins going into the ground, but if It was an issue, I'd defiantly try the angle on my tins. Thanks for the idea Tom. Keep up the good work.
Do you recommend 3/4" steel pipes for the tines or 1/2" steel pipes? The video showed 3/4" but the link in description shows 1/2". Also, for the wheel & spacer, did you use 3/4" plywood? Thanks!
Good question. I've tried both the 1/2" tines which were order from Amazon and the 3/4" tines which I made myself. I believe both diameters will get the gob done. I personally went with the 3/4" to get a slightly larger hole, which in a long run will help aerate a little longer since the smaller hole you make, the quicker that hole will close back up. You won't go wrong with whichever of the 2 sizes you go with. The link for the steel pipes I used is the 4th link down from the top.
As for the wheel and spacer, yes I used 3/4" thick plywood labeled for outdoor use.
@@vandit0o0o I appreciate the clarification! I plan to attempt this myself, but only issue is that I don’t own an angle grinder, so I’ll need to figure that part out. As far as cutting a perfect circle out of the plywood, would you recommend using a jigsaw as the best route?
@@kennyboyy Here a cheap grinder I bought from Amazon back in 2020 for cheap ( amzn.to/43jd20C ) that I still use today. A jigsaw would be the easiest way cut out your circle, but don't worry about making it perfect. Just get as close as you can. You can always follow with sanding down the excess or rough areas of the circle after cutting it out.
Perfect tool when the lawn is 1 inch wide.👍
Seems like an easy tool to use across bigger lawns. People push heavy lawn mowers across all types of lawns (large or small). If people can push heavy lawn mowers across massive lawns every 2 weeks... I'm sure they can wheel this super light device around a large lawn ONCE per year. Don't be a dick.
make a wide version with many wheels
The problem with adding more tines is resistance! It will be harder to penetrate and would have to be even heavier than the 40 lbs he has on it.
hey, same width as your tiny brain!
Παρακάλω ποίο το πάχος και η διάμετρος του ξύλινου δίσκου? Ευχαριστώ
how did you cut the steel pipe? Thanks
I used a grinder with a cutting wheel.
For side eject tines to spit out cores, they must be banana shaped. Those tines will clog...also wood for the disk is not heavy enough
Hey there, yes you could use different types of tines and get good cores. I didn't (they kept clogging and gave me smaller cores) which is why I made my own and had much better success as you can see from my video. The wood frame is lite, which is why you need to add some weight to it. When not in use, the frame is conveniently lite enough to move, take apart & store. You could always modify my version to best fit your needs.
Brilliant, but I want at least three wide if possible. Make a larger one?
Thanks. I may make 2 more models this summer, both with double wheels. I think 3 would be to much. I need it to be fun and easy to use. But for sh*ts and giggles I may venture to a 3 wheel model.
That's not gonna work. A 2-wide version already doesn't penetrate as well as a one-wheel version.
@@TheEchelon From what I can tell, the tines need to be replaced with pointed ones to make it amazing. Then the dual would be better! I also found a company who makes these with a break rotor!
It would need to be heavy and you would want the wheels to spin independently otherwise turning it would be very difficult. Probable would cost more time and effort than the single wheel.
use a 55 gal barrow instead of wood wheel, all plugs will end up inside , might have to add weight to it
Post it.
Could I please ask what model Dremel you have? Thanks
Dremel 3000
Great video! What is the thickness of the pipe?
Thanks! Here the Home Depot link to the pipes to get all the specs...www.homedepot.com/p/The-Plumber-s-Choice-Black-Steel-Pipe-1-2-in-x-12-in-Nipple-Fitting-4-Pack-1212NPBL-4/309822443
@@vandit0o0o thanks for the link, but when I click it I get "Access Denied". Can't reache the page
How deep are the actual holes? Your pIugs look short. And long plugs may be several short plugs stuck together. If the pluggers extend more than two inches beyond the wheel they are attached to, I suspect that they’ll rip gashes in the turf rather than make holes. The angles at which the plugger enters and exits the ground are mirror opposites. The plugger needs to enter and exit vertically like a sewing machine needle.
Hey there. So my cores pop out between about 1-1/4 inch to just under 2 inches (the tines stick out about 2" from the wheel). Yes, if the tines stick out to much you'll get some wide gashes. I'm very happy with the cores that pop out on mine. The tines going into the ground vertically is one way to do it. Many different types of core aerators exit for your particular needs. If you build one of these just play with the tines (both in how much they go into the ground and how many you put on the wheel). Build it to whichever way works best for you.
@@vandit0o0o I don’t mechanically aerate since I discovered that routine humic acid applications chemically aerate the turf more thoroughly.
What would I change .... a way to make a gang of them and put them on the front of my little snapper lawn mower .... and just have it down when I mow. Cuz, I lazy AF!
Lol, I mean if it works, it's works. 👍
Is there a reason why you went with the steel pipe vs the pre made tines? Amazon is selling 12 tines for $51 so that’s like $4.33 a piece.
Yeah. I was just thinking about that.
Ever consider using EMT conduit instead?
Good question. I probably won't since the tines themselves would be carrying all the weight and at times hit rocks to I'd go for a stronger metal.
How did you cut the opening in the steal tines? What kind of tool set up do you need? Also, why didn’t you use the tines you bought on Amazon? Could I just use those instead of making my own? Sorry for the hundred questions
The tines from Amazon were giving me cores to thin and they'd get clogged to quickly, so I gave up on those. I used my grinder with a thin cutting disk to cut the tines in half and then using that same disk just smooth out the tips. Hope this helps.
@@vandit0o0o thanks. Cutting the tines in half was pretty intuitive, but did you use the same cutting disk and angle grinder to cut out the slots to eject the cores?
@@adrianjohnson1028 Yes I did. 👍
Why are the cores so shallow? Is it because this hand tool can't do deeper holes?
It could get deeper. I just personally only needed about 1"-1.5" cores. You can make the tines as long or short as you need. Whatever works best for you.
I don’t have enough vacation for this
Where I live you can buy one to tow behind a lawn tractor for $200.
And if you don't have a tractor or a yard that needs one, this is a perfect idea!
For a core aerator or a spike aerator? I'm guessing the latter and spike aeration doesn't really work.
please, what is the thickness and diameter of the wooden tray?
Wooden tray? Do you mean the wheel? The specs are given in my video.
Just thinking out loud, couldn't you make front or back wheels for your lawn mower and remove 2 of the original wheels on the lawn mower or find a way to snap them on temporarily to the existing front or back wheels (that would be gold, no need to remove anything from the existing lawn more, snap on aerator wheels), add these customer "aerator wheels", cut the grass and aerate at the same time or just take advantage of the existing weight of the lawn mower and the handlebars already created on the lawn mower. You're already there with this proof of concept invention, you've shown it yourself in this video that the the wheel with the aerator spikes works and produces nice size soil cores.
Green Scott Aerator sir, $80