Thank you very much for this video. I have this washer and have the softener overfilling the top causing the LC1 error. I bought a whole new assembly DC97-20128A and am preparing to replace it soon. Funny to learn that all I needed was a new plastic part. I'm wondering if its easier to take off the whole rinse assembly and pull it out, than trying to reach in and unhook the drain hose to change the plastic puck and put it back on. You described it as very difficult and a head-into-wall-banger 😀
Have you guys heard of things potentially going over the rim for the top drum? I thought I had dropped my Aqua Pebble somewhere outside my FlexWash washer. However, after buying a new one, putting it on the top of my clothing in the top washer, and coming back to it not being there after the end of the wash, I’m worried the Aqua Pebble was able to be folded enough to fit in between the little gap.
Ive taken a lot of things out of the drain pump. Yesterday i found a 4 inch drywall screw that poked a hole in the drain hose. Lots of things go over the top.
I'm hoping you can shed some light on my issues with flex washer. I have the older version and my issue is either the lower washer will fill in spurts or drain in spurts. Top washer is fine. I'm at a loss and samsung have no idea how to help me.
I have a feeling you have a bad valve. It normally fills a little hot, a little cold until it gets the level and temperature just right. If one of the valves goes bad it'll act like it's starting and stopping. I think all the valves are a single part Draining in spurts is normal. Maybe 30 seconds draining 30 just spinning another 30 draining
Thanks for the video, i have the older model (WV55M9600AV/A5) and im sure ill be referencing this The top washer motor will only "twich" during a cycle so i get no spin and no agitation . Everything else appears to work with both upper and lower units, any insight would be appreciated.
It could be one of 3 things. The stator could be bad, the hall effect sensor attached to the stator (most likely), or the controller on the main board. The stator has 3 phases and can be tested with an ohm meter. If the ohm reading between any 3 pins matches, the stator is likely good. The hall effect unit reports the rotor position and speed back to the main board. If it gets no feedback it'll twitch and never spin correctly
can you talk about unbalance issues and best way to fix those? tried calibration and it doesn't work so I suspect its the suspension rods which I see in your video here.
you can use plastic pry bars to pop open the locked door. if you cannot get to the over ride manual lock pull release. or just pull very hard on door and hope handle will not brake..
Thanks for this video. I've got a service call about no power at all on both the top and bottom washer. It has a power botton and a start pause botton separate on both washers.. I'm unable to identify why both are not powering up. Voltage is definitely at the washer and leaving out of the filter and going to the main boards for both section. I need your help. The fuse on the bottom washer was not blown i check it.what do you suggest I do.
It's possible the control board is the issue. I forget if the main boards are separate. If they're 1 piece, that could be the issue. I usually take voltage readings on the cable between the main and control. If there's none at all, i think it's the main. I think 1 pin is 3v or 5v
Thank you for responding. The main board for the big section of the washer is located at the back and they are two pieces and if the 2 washer sections are not powering up I'm not able to identify why that is occuring.
@@ebj9510 i actually had one not powering up friday. it turned out to be a short in the touch panels in the front. my 5v standby was missing until i removed the wifi card and the touch panels. the voltage came back and it would power up with a new right touch panel, and wifi card. we hadn't ordered the left side yet, but it operates with the partial keys and app
I just encountered the LC1 error but fabric softener and bleach has never been used in the upper washer. Any advice on what else could be causing the LC1 error?
It's usually the check valve on the softener. It's supposed to stop the water from the tub from flowing up into the dispenser and out the top. It gets stuck open
Does anyone have the part number for the little "puck" replacement part for the top washer fabric softner "float"? I need to replace this part but cannot find the part number and it is not on the exploded view on any of the parts websites. Thank you for any help w/ this.
I’ve leveled mine out. Changed the shock absorber. Ran the calibration multiple times. And can never get it back to complete a full cycle. What’s next? Changed the vibration sensor too. I’ve ran the diagnostic and it’s spins. It doesn’t wobble with or without clothes. What’s my next option?
any help i bought a new floor model and the spin cycle is i guess off balance i did the calibration and it finished with no issues but when its goes through a cycle (empty and with clothes) it shakes so bad it shuts down and tries again do you have any tips or help to stop this or what to do to fix it ?
Lower washer keeps saying check water supply faucet and restart. Already checked filter screens and my water hoses- all clean. Would this be the pressure sensor? I took the back apart and found the pressure sensor only for the top washer. Couldn’t see the sensor for the lower washer. I’m stuck
Does it seem to fill up? If it does get the right amount of water but it can't tell. I think the sensor is in the back left. You can find it at the end of a thin black air hose coming from the bottom of the tub
@@PirateTVProductionsyea water fills up. Actually seems to continue to slowly pump water in. Seems like it doesn’t stop when switching to the washing phase. I will look for that sensor
Does the bleach dispenser work the same way as the fabric dispenser with the foam disk? If so, is the foam disk in the bleach dispenser supposed to sit freely beneath the hole in the dispenser and rise as the water passes through? Or is the foam disk supposed to always remain plugged in the hole?
@@PirateTVProductions Thank you for the information and decoding what I meant. I apologize for my typos. I was grateful to hear you mention the foam plug in the older flex wash version for the fabric softener dispenser… because I haven’t found any information on the bleach dispenser, other than it is there, for this newer model. I wish the bleach dispenser had a max line for the upper washer like the fabric softener dispenser does to keep confusion down. The little black foam disk was in the bleach dispenser hole and as I was cleaning it I accidentally pushed it down. Initially, I couldn’t see it and didn’t know it was there until I felt it drop. I was able to pull up back into the hole, but I wasn’t sure how it was supposed to be positioned in the dispenser. Thank you for the videos and instructions you offer. Life saver!
DC1 is usually the lower washer door latch going bad. 1DC is the upper. The latch itself is on the front strike for the outer glass door if i remember correctly. I haven't had to change one in a while, but i think it slides out while the unit is mostly assembled.
@@PirateTVProductions Thank you I found the latch. This latch has been defective since I bought the unit but instead of Samsung fixing the locking mechanism, they rather send me a new unit but now they see its out of warranty since I had the unit in storage and won't cover it so i have to fix it myself.
The flexwasher I'm working on is not turning on at all, I pulled it apart and found that it's throwing full (or what I assume is full) voltage when first plugging it in. Then when I hit the power button it experiences a sudden drop in power and I never get any sort of reaction out of it. Any ideas what the first piece to try swapping is or any other potential problems that could be causing it?
I usually check www.encompass.com im having trouble finding which bearing and seal is upper and which is lower. Most times for the front load, you'd replace the rear tub which comes with the bearing and seal installed. Make sure to replace the o ring between the front and rear tub as well to prevent leaks in the future
Does any had run into not water filling up, my machine it turns on but doesn't fill up i heard the snap of the valve i guess but no water at all. Can any body help?
@@PirateTVProductions Hall sensor replaced and did not work.....I ordered a control board should be delivered tomorrow if that doesnt work would it be motor & stator next? the drum inside is a little stiff to turn.
How can i use the front loader because the top loader's door lock is broken. I have tried using the front loader but keeps pause Please let me know. Thank you
Does it physically shake? Most times for me this is 1 or more legs that have gotten loose from the floor or a machine that isn't level. If it can wobble a bit, the end of the rince can amplify the shake, and the sensors will stop the cycle after 3 tries. Other causes can be a bad shock absorber, spring, bent wash tub, or the motor. Those are usually older when those things go bad.
I’ve leveled mine out. Changed the shock absorber. Ran the calibration multiple times. And can never get it back to complete a full cycle. What’s next? Any sensor that I have to change?
I have a huge issue with the bottom washer. I took entire washer a part to replace the sipder arm and I can't get the outer tub apart from the drum(bearings and everything won't budge). I already removed the front part of pladtic tub.
If it won't slide out, the bearing might be worn. I usually pull the whole tub and change it vertically. If that doesn't help, you may need the rear tub as well. That's how i replace bearings to avoid leaks and avoid pressing the bearing in
@@PirateTVProductions I have the Samsung WV60M9900AV/A5 and the horizontal bearings are bad. Repair tech tells me that bearings aren't sold separately and I need a new rear tub assembly (DC97-19647D). That's a pricey part, when the bearings would be much cheaper. Is it possible to only install new bearings?
My machine WV55M9600A V/A5 has no power. The display flashed on and off a couple times for a couple days but now has nothing. I can hear a faint click noise toward the back of the machine but nothing works after the click.
Mine says "close door and restart" Any idea? We replaced the door switch and doesn't work.. we replaced the PCB and still not regonized the lower door was closed. Help!!! Thanks
Does it beep instantly and say "DE"? Or click a few times before stopping? It should click once or twice, then start washing. If it doesn't do the clicks and you've replaced the latch, it might be the main board
Mine doesn’t leak anywhere that is common. Popping the back door off to see the upper pump, that’s when I see water leak from the drain hose. It will fill and swish a minute then when it sucks some out water sprays up from that tube.
Ever come across where you run the Self Clean Cycle for the lower wash, runs through for a few hours and then it stop? No power, unable to open door? Dead! I tried unplugging the outlet for 5 minutes and plug back in with no luck. Unit is barely a month old
@@PirateTVProductions From your video, if it is the main PCB then hopefully they don't need to pull out my whole washer. Thanks for the help. I got someone coming tomorrow and monday. Hopefully they have a part and can fix it the same day. Thank you again!
How fast does the water drain out? There may be a restriction in the hose or pump. If it drains for too long but still senses water inside, it will act like that with a code
@@PirateTVProductions when the drain plug is open it drains fast but there is no code on the display, the only thing the display says is to clean drain filter but filter is clean and cycle will not resume
![[UA] NAVI vs MOUZ | BO5 | IEM Rio 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CMBYk0cbGoA/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you very much for this video. I have this washer and have the softener overfilling the top causing the LC1 error. I bought a whole new assembly DC97-20128A and am preparing to replace it soon. Funny to learn that all I needed was a new plastic part. I'm wondering if its easier to take off the whole rinse assembly and pull it out, than trying to reach in and unhook the drain hose to change the plastic puck and put it back on. You described it as very difficult and a head-into-wall-banger 😀
Either part is a big job. You separate the upper part and work on it upside down. The plastic piece is easier but most of the job is the same
Have you guys heard of things potentially going over the rim for the top drum? I thought I had dropped my Aqua Pebble somewhere outside my FlexWash washer. However, after buying a new one, putting it on the top of my clothing in the top washer, and coming back to it not being there after the end of the wash, I’m worried the Aqua Pebble was able to be folded enough to fit in between the little gap.
Ive taken a lot of things out of the drain pump. Yesterday i found a 4 inch drywall screw that poked a hole in the drain hose. Lots of things go over the top.
I'm hoping you can shed some light on my issues with flex washer. I have the older version and my issue is either the lower washer will fill in spurts or drain in spurts. Top washer is fine. I'm at a loss and samsung have no idea how to help me.
I have a feeling you have a bad valve. It normally fills a little hot, a little cold until it gets the level and temperature just right. If one of the valves goes bad it'll act like it's starting and stopping. I think all the valves are a single part
Draining in spurts is normal. Maybe 30 seconds draining 30 just spinning another 30 draining
For the draining its real short spurts. Like maybe 2 seconds. I will check the inlet valve. Thank you for replying back. @@PirateTVProductions
Thanks for the video, i have the older model (WV55M9600AV/A5) and im sure ill be referencing this
The top washer motor will only "twich" during a cycle so i get no spin and no agitation . Everything else appears to work with both upper and lower units, any insight would be appreciated.
It could be one of 3 things. The stator could be bad, the hall effect sensor attached to the stator (most likely), or the controller on the main board. The stator has 3 phases and can be tested with an ohm meter. If the ohm reading between any 3 pins matches, the stator is likely good. The hall effect unit reports the rotor position and speed back to the main board. If it gets no feedback it'll twitch and never spin correctly
can you talk about unbalance issues and best way to fix those? tried calibration and it doesn't work so I suspect its the suspension rods which I see in your video here.
It could be bad springs, a bent tub, or a bad motor.
you can use plastic pry bars to pop open the locked door. if you cannot get to the over ride manual lock pull release. or just pull very hard on door and hope handle will not brake..
I usually can get to the release by removing the top front panel and pulling the front cover open enough to reach inside.
Thanks for this video. I've got a service call about no power at all on both the top and bottom washer. It has a power botton and a start pause botton separate on both washers.. I'm unable to identify why both are not powering up. Voltage is definitely at the washer and leaving out of the filter and going to the main boards for both section. I need your help. The fuse on the bottom washer was not blown i check it.what do you suggest I do.
It's possible the control board is the issue. I forget if the main boards are separate. If they're 1 piece, that could be the issue. I usually take voltage readings on the cable between the main and control. If there's none at all, i think it's the main. I think 1 pin is 3v or 5v
Thank you for responding. The main board for the big section of the washer is located at the back and they are two pieces and if the 2 washer sections are not powering up I'm not able to identify why that is occuring.
@@ebj9510 i actually had one not powering up friday. it turned out to be a short in the touch panels in the front. my 5v standby was missing until i removed the wifi card and the touch panels. the voltage came back and it would power up with a new right touch panel, and wifi card. we hadn't ordered the left side yet, but it operates with the partial keys and app
Great video.
Thank you Sir’s
I just encountered the LC1 error but fabric softener and bleach has never been used in the upper washer. Any advice on what else could be causing the LC1 error?
It's usually the check valve on the softener. It's supposed to stop the water from the tub from flowing up into the dispenser and out the top. It gets stuck open
Does anyone have the part number for the little "puck" replacement part for the top washer fabric softner "float"? I need to replace this part but cannot find the part number and it is not on the exploded view on any of the parts websites. Thank you for any help w/ this.
I think it's a bulletin. I can look it up if you've got the model
I’ve leveled mine out. Changed the shock absorber. Ran the calibration multiple times. And can never get it back to complete a full cycle. What’s next? Changed the vibration sensor too.
I’ve ran the diagnostic and it’s spins. It doesn’t wobble with or without clothes.
What’s my next option?
What happens when it doesn't finish? Does it show a code?
any help i bought a new floor model and the spin cycle is i guess off balance i did the calibration and it finished with no issues but when its goes through a cycle (empty and with clothes) it shakes so bad it shuts down and tries again do you have any tips or help to stop this or what to do to fix it ?
Hard to tell without seeing it spin
Question do this washer have a heat pump to heating up the hot water
I don't remember if this one had a small heater. It mostly relies on the houses water heater
Lower washer keeps saying check water supply faucet and restart. Already checked filter screens and my water hoses- all clean. Would this be the pressure sensor? I took the back apart and found the pressure sensor only for the top washer. Couldn’t see the sensor for the lower washer. I’m stuck
Does it seem to fill up? If it does get the right amount of water but it can't tell. I think the sensor is in the back left. You can find it at the end of a thin black air hose coming from the bottom of the tub
@@PirateTVProductionsyea water fills up. Actually seems to continue to slowly pump water in. Seems like it doesn’t stop when switching to the washing phase. I will look for that sensor
Every cycle stays on like 2 min.. then gives me that error and drains
I was incorrect about the water level sensor for the lower washer, it is in the center front of the unit behind the front panel
Does the bleach dispenser work the same way as the fabric dispenser with the foam disk? If so, is the foam disk in the bleach dispenser supposed to sit freely beneath the hole in the dispenser and rise as the water passes through? Or is the foam disk supposed to always remain plugged in the hole?
When water rises it floats up and blocks the opening. Normally it's open
@@PirateTVProductions
Thank you for the information and decoding what I meant. I apologize for my typos.
I was grateful to hear you mention the foam plug in the older flex wash version for the fabric softener dispenser… because I haven’t found any information on the bleach dispenser, other than it is there, for this newer model. I wish the bleach dispenser had a max line for the upper washer like the fabric softener dispenser does to keep confusion down.
The little black foam disk was in the bleach dispenser hole and as I was cleaning it I accidentally pushed it down. Initially, I couldn’t see it and didn’t know it was there until I felt it drop. I was able to pull up back into the hole, but I wasn’t sure how it was supposed to be positioned in the dispenser.
Thank you for the videos and instructions you offer. Life saver!
I think the deal is that the softener gums it up where bleach won't. Ive never had the bleach apart
Any advise on the top washer if the door will not lock in order for it to run in general I believe it says dc1
DC1 is usually the lower washer door latch going bad. 1DC is the upper. The latch itself is on the front strike for the outer glass door if i remember correctly. I haven't had to change one in a while, but i think it slides out while the unit is mostly assembled.
@@PirateTVProductions Thank you I found the latch. This latch has been defective since I bought the unit but instead of Samsung fixing the locking mechanism, they rather send me a new unit but now they see its out of warranty since I had the unit in storage and won't cover it so i have to fix it myself.
The flexwasher I'm working on is not turning on at all, I pulled it apart and found that it's throwing full (or what I assume is full) voltage when first plugging it in. Then when I hit the power button it experiences a sudden drop in power and I never get any sort of reaction out of it. Any ideas what the first piece to try swapping is or any other potential problems that could be causing it?
That sounds like the main board but i would try unplugging things like the latch, drain pump and motor to see if one of them is causing a short
Would you be able to provide part number. I need to replace the bearings/seal on the bottom washer. Model WV60A9900AV
I usually check www.encompass.com im having trouble finding which bearing and seal is upper and which is lower. Most times for the front load, you'd replace the rear tub which comes with the bearing and seal installed. Make sure to replace the o ring between the front and rear tub as well to prevent leaks in the future
Can please advise me on how the lower part washer of mine keeps pause as soon as I put it on
Does it make the beep when it does? It could be a worn out start button
Top flex washer handle broke. Can I order just a replace handle or what will all need to be ordered? Can I get just a top glass door?
Is it the outside glass door or the inside? The outside is easy to change. The inside comes with the tub top and is a bigger job
Inside door that latches. Do you know what part I need?
@@MNMisfits-e3l i think its the tub top. it comes with the door
Does any had run into not water filling up, my machine it turns on but doesn't fill up i heard the snap of the valve i guess but no water at all. Can any body help?
It's usually the valve itself. It could also be the filter on the inlet clogged.
We have the older version with a code 3c2 any idea where I start in replacing parts? Top washer works lower stuck on sensing and would not spin.
It's usually the motor or more likely the hall effect sensor attached to the motor. It can't sense the motor position so it won't turn
@@PirateTVProductions I will take a look thank you so much!!!!
@@PirateTVProductions Hall sensor replaced and did not work.....I ordered a control board should be delivered tomorrow if that doesnt work would it be motor & stator next? the drum inside is a little stiff to turn.
How can i use the front loader because the top loader's door lock is broken. I have tried using the front loader but keeps pause
Please let me know. Thank you
Does it say anything when it pauses?
Hi! We have a problem with our lower washer the cycles are not changing its stuck on one cycle and not shut down
Can it be problem with main board?
It could be. It could also be the control board.
Hello, my washer is about half a year old but recently its been having “unbalanced load” issues and never completes a rinse cycle. Any ideas?
Does it physically shake? Most times for me this is 1 or more legs that have gotten loose from the floor or a machine that isn't level. If it can wobble a bit, the end of the rince can amplify the shake, and the sensors will stop the cycle after 3 tries.
Other causes can be a bad shock absorber, spring, bent wash tub, or the motor. Those are usually older when those things go bad.
I’ve leveled mine out. Changed the shock absorber. Ran the calibration multiple times. And can never get it back to complete a full cycle. What’s next? Any sensor that I have to change?
@@eberescobar4016I have the same problem. Were you able to fix this eventually?
Where do you get the plastic washer to replace that foam one that sticks? Is there a part number?
What model is it? I think i can look it up
wv55m9600av/a5-02
Should be dc62-00702a
Nice video guys thanks
I love this washer but its given me huge problems. Am in Ghana, and i dont know if you guys can help me get someone from samsung to help me.
I don't know their local service center number.
I have a huge issue with the bottom washer. I took entire washer a part to replace the sipder arm and I can't get the outer tub apart from the drum(bearings and everything won't budge). I already removed the front part of pladtic tub.
If it won't slide out, the bearing might be worn. I usually pull the whole tub and change it vertically. If that doesn't help, you may need the rear tub as well. That's how i replace bearings to avoid leaks and avoid pressing the bearing in
@@PirateTVProductions I have the Samsung WV60M9900AV/A5 and the horizontal bearings are bad. Repair tech tells me that bearings aren't sold separately and I need a new rear tub assembly (DC97-19647D). That's a pricey part, when the bearings would be much cheaper. Is it possible to only install new bearings?
@@1979cavsfan ive never done just the bearing. i think it is pre installed in the rear tub
My machine WV55M9600A V/A5 has no power. The display flashed on and off a couple times for a couple days but now has nothing. I can hear a faint click noise toward the back of the machine but nothing works after the click.
Could be the main board in the back but it could also be the control board in the front. It's hard to tell
Mine says "close door and restart" Any idea? We replaced the door switch and doesn't work.. we replaced the PCB and still not regonized the lower door was closed. Help!!! Thanks
Does it beep instantly and say "DE"? Or click a few times before stopping? It should click once or twice, then start washing. If it doesn't do the clicks and you've replaced the latch, it might be the main board
Mine doesn’t leak anywhere that is common. Popping the back door off to see the upper pump, that’s when I see water leak from the drain hose. It will fill and swish a minute then when it sucks some out water sprays up from that tube.
That should be the sensing. It shouldn't drain after that, unless the sensor on the bottom gets wet. If so it'll drain forever until you unplug it
@@PirateTVProductions I actually unplugged the black pump. The one that puts water in the fabric softener and no more leaks.
that works as well@@307.William
Ever come across where you run the Self Clean Cycle for the lower wash, runs through for a few hours and then it stop? No power, unable to open door? Dead! I tried unplugging the outlet for 5 minutes and plug back in with no luck. Unit is barely a month old
The top washer still works? Id imagine a defective main board
@@PirateTVProductions There is no power at all to the whole unit. Unable to start the washing machine. Thanks
@@kcsupratt possibly the main pcb. under warranty itd only take a few days to get it fixed
@@PirateTVProductions From your video, if it is the main PCB then hopefully they don't need to pull out my whole washer. Thanks for the help. I got someone coming tomorrow and monday. Hopefully they have a part and can fix it the same day. Thank you again!
My Samsung flex washer “lower washer does not go through a full cycle keeps saying to check draining system, what do I look for or what would I repair
How fast does the water drain out? There may be a restriction in the hose or pump. If it drains for too long but still senses water inside, it will act like that with a code
@@PirateTVProductions when the drain plug is open it drains fast but there is no code on the display, the only thing the display says is to clean drain filter but filter is clean and cycle will not resume
Must be the pump or drain hose if the plug can drain it but it can't drain itself
@@PirateTVProductions I really appreciate your prompt response and support to this issues. I will check the drain hose and drain pump
Nice 👊🏻!
Where is the water level sensor?
It should be a small sensor on the frame. Back corner i think with a small air hose going to the bottom of the tub
And then I broke the damn pvc tee !!!
I've done that twice.
Thank you for the time invested in this video, very helpful!
Mucho habla
Yes. A lot 😀