This video was more helpful than any professional video I've been watching. Thanks for posting this, had the same issue yesterday, just watched this video, and went out and looked at the spring you showed....and BAM! THERE WAS HALF A BROKEN SPRING! Rigged the spring and my E-Brake works again! You probably just saved me $500. Thanks so much!
These trucks had the goofiest parking brake setup that I have seen in my 30+ years as a professional mechanic. The cables were designed to be "self adjusting" - which usually meant that they held too much tension on the parking brake. In 1994 there was a recall which added a wedge to prevent the parking brake from self adjusting and was supposed to help prevent this issue, but I have yet to see a vehicle with the recall applied. All that said, your fix is genius and I have now used it myself. Great job!
This is a old post but that spring is just to keep the cable from hanging down, WHERE SHE added that heavy spring now the driver side ebrake is dragging. look how the cable is set up. The driver side is the primary cable. The issue is frozen cables or the actuator under the dash, That spring is pulling on the left rear cable now
I found the spring in Autozones help section, it’s called a pedal return spring and the long side is universal so you have to bend and cut off the excess
Thank you for posting this. I had been fighting the same problem for about 2 years. You think you have it fixed and a month later...nope. You are a Saint! Thanks again.
Holy shit, I've been having that EXACT problem with my '03 Ranger e-brake sticking. I tore into it yesterday and had a mess from burning up the right rear pads. I thought the brake arm was sticking, but I think the spring is the issue! I'm going to totally do this. Wow. Thanks for posting. Love stuff like this!
Exactly the same problem on my '94 Ford Ranger. I was just getting ready to install the new cables today, and decided to do a search on UA-cam. I am going to install that spring tonight. Thanks for posting this fix!
My father-in-law's 1997 Ranger had what my mother-in-law called a bed spring hanging down from it. I took a look and apparently my brother-in-law had borrowed the truck and when he returned it that spring you are pointing out had come loose and was dangling. I am going to use your video to make sure that I reattached it properly when I go by there soon. I knew that it was for the e-brake but I wasn't sure I connected it back exactly the way it had been. Thanks for the video!
been banging my head against the wall for over an hour, fixed the broken cable and nothing worked...there was no spring there and had no idea THANK YOU
Thank you for the great pictures in this video! I had not used the emergency brake in years--I knew to use always or never. BUT I HAD TO--I thought at the moment. As explained elsewhere, the rubber coating had cracked off the cable sheathing over the years allowing water aggravated by northern winter salted roads to get inside and rust both cable and sheath. It's arguable whether frequent use would be able to do anything but postpone eventual binding, but no-use sure guarantees it. With penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench) I soaked the exposed rusted portions of the sheathing and manipulated those and surrounding lengths with my hands, bending and twisting them to try to work the penetrant inside, and I repeated the process at least three more times. I also tapped the rust off the exposed areas with a hammer, and tapped the covered areas along the length for good measure. However I learned the geometry of the emergency-brake lever from your fine videography and after some inspection and experimentation discovered that I could, barely, fit the tip of a large flat-blade screwdriver behind and below the wheel hub to rest on the bottom toe of the lever where the cable terminates. I believe the penetrant helped, but hammer blows to the big screwdriver slowly drove the lever back to the home position. Of course this cannot be done with the wheel on, but I had been lucky to be able to drive the hub off the shoes by tapping around the circumference with a hammer and drift. Cutting the cable close to the hub would have been my last resort, but I would have been considering it a good bet that the binding was inside the cable and not inside the wheel. Thanks. Be well.
Seems like you described my exact issue. I will have to give this a try and add to the post, my outcome. thank you very much for posting this. Even if it isn't the answer to my issue. I respect people, greatly, who take the time to make these videos to assist people in educating themselves and helping us to saving money. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Thanks! Just rebuilt my drums and thought some of the new parts were out of wack. Was about to attempt a cable replacement, saw this video and, sure enough, no spring whatsoever!! Fingers crossed this fixes the problem.
Fantastic vid! Thank you! A friend is headed over to fix a bad repair that was just done. Either the drum was reassembled wrong or the new shoes drag because of this issue. Or the cables themselves are rusted somewhere. But now I think we can figure it out! 👍
Thanks for the video. What a weird setup. This 99 Ranger came into the shop with the cables broken and in pieces. I did not have a clue how the 3 cables were supposed to hook to each other.
I appreciate the video, hopefully this will get mine working properly. I always have to remind mechanics to NOT put it on because it drags until I can get it popped loose again. Thanks!
You are definitely you...thanks, saw my spring hangin and didn't think anything about it... I thought it was just to hold the line up...nope apparently not....See you in kansas
Nice writeup...consider me a fan. In the midst of replacing left rear e brake cable, intend to implement your spring mod as described. Thanks...subscribed.
I just bought a used ranger. The e-brake pedal was real hard to push as the cable was a bit rusted and the spring you replaced, well mine was hanging in the wind.I have a new cable on the way and I'm doing the rear brakes so I'll use one of the old springs and do what you did. Thanks....
I had retracting issues before that would keep shoes engaged, but fixed by replacing the cable. Just did this mod as it was pretty nice to have the ebrake lever come all the way up. Good timing too cause I just had brake springs replaced
Yep. I’ve been keeping it in gear. And praying that it don’t pop out. I do still push the E break peddle down. It goes almost to the floor. But on a steep hill, it won’t work. If the hill is only slightly steep, - then it will work. So I’m just kinda wondering. I suppose I need to take a look at what I got. AND the condition of the spring. Thanks.
on my ranger there is only one place for the spring to go. my cables split into right and left further down. The one spring is supposed to retract both sides.. Yes, i just used a spring from the drum brake hardware kit.
I THINK THIS IS MY ISSUE! I bought a ranger yesterday and drove it home 5.5hours with a dragging e brake. Got 13.6mpg... I took the drum off today and it came off easy but the hub/axle still sticks for 1/4 of the rotation. Anyways I noticed a rusty old spring hanging right near where yours is that isn't connected to ANYTHING. Thanks for the help!
mine is a 1994 ford ranger XLT.. I dont know if you have the same set up. I bought the Drum Brake hardware kit. It contains hard ware for either the right or left wheels. either would be fine..... Although I would make sure it isnt anything to do with your manual transmission or the hydraulic clutch... But if u dont see movement wnen e brake is released, or the tires are hard to turn when car is up on lift and stick is in neutral and brake is released - then u got problems
I'm having the same issue and I tore into mine decided to put new brakes on it and discovered that the left driver-side brakes don't have the spreader bar between the brakes for the ebrake. Is that normal does the left side not have that bar across the top?
My recent purchase of a 2001 Mazda B4000 didn't even have one or provision to install one, so I'm going to find a way to install one. Thanks for taking the time to reveal this short coming on Mazda Trucks. Cheers!
I have a '93, the cable has a ton of slack so it seems, and overall the e-brake barely engages. I believe this is an issue of a stretched cable as the truck has about 180k on it, and the e-brake has been used regularly throughout its life. Thoughts? Rod
My 98 had a rusted in half spring with froze cables , then found a busted leafspring so I got new leafsprings with 6 leafs per side instead of 2 like the ones that was on it, then while I'm in to it everything that unbolts is getting replaced with new usa made parts and a new 8.8 rearend with 5.13 gears and 6.5 inch lift and a new front end with 6 in lift with new 15x10 rims with 35 inch tires and miner body work and new camo paint job and a 400 small block with muncie 4 speed
Looks like the 93 is the same configuration as my 94. It's possible the cable has stretched. There is no adjustment to tighten up the slack on these except the e brake pedal as far as I know.. If the brake pads are worn down excessively you will also have slack..you will probably have to remove the drum to see what is going on. It really is impossible to do a good diagnosis without seeing what the pads are doing when when pedal is depressed and released, and to see the motion of the cable itself...
i have to repaet this cause it did not put year numbers on. I have a 1988 ford tempo with emergency brake problems. The Handle will not pull upward when i try it,..it is locked in downward position and from feel od car it is causing severe grag. How do i release it?
Ive had my ranger for 7 years and never used the e brake because of this lol. Does that spring work both driver and passenger side? And thats just tue drum brake hardware kit spring u used instead right?
Got a 91 explorer, e-brake won't release. Can't get drum off or drive it at this point. Got any ideas? If I can at least drive it to the shop, that would help.
i have a ford f150 1989 pickup truck the brakes lock up the only way to un engage (to free it again) it is by backing up to free it but then drive a little bit it will lock up again. is the parking brake the problem, or something else?
Funny this video has little relevance to my situation but compelling to watch all through. my Ford Tauruses ebrake is sticking after replacing front and back pads thought it damn near caught fire in my attempt to go to work this morning but only I the driver side rear tire which interested me because when I change those pads it went like clockwork though passenger rear needed to caliper rebuild so why did disengage the cable from its actuator but I'm sure I put it back just how it was perhaps you have cultivated the knowledge advise me properly. still wasn't what made it so oddly important 2 finishtho. forgive the cornyness of this, i have no other words to express this vibe that struck me. feels so kindred to disregard anyway, i think i was once the man f our dreams, unconditionally,.. what a trip any chance ur PHX girl hah.
Great! I am going get up under there and see what the hell, I was thinking that someone I lent the truck to put the E brake on and then drove it till it burned up, I have been pretty pissed about it, my Mazda B3000 ( ford ranger ) nov 93 = 1994 model, is not auto. its a 4x4 and Used the E brake EVERY time I parked. now its freaking useless. Been driving me crazy but i haven't got around to taking all apart yet. I found this 1 st search. awesome vid. You know you are awesome right?
I think you just solved my E-Brake problem... Do you have any suggestions for newcomers? I'm just getting into mechanics, and am pretty lost. I'm sure hands-on experience is the only way to _know_ the vehicle, but did you have any resources that really "set you free" that you could reference? Also, what's it like being awesome? :P
I had to make an adjustment on both sides to free up the forward motion break drag. There was no drag in reverse. But I couldn't get it to move forward. After the adjustment I noticed a winding sound wtf is wrong now
Hi I own a lumina S aka commodore sv6 out of no where my E-break got stuck is it a part thing? Cause I don't know how much it'll cost to fix can you tell me what it could be other than what you showed in the video :c
I always use it that's why it was so weird! Thank you for taking the time to reply, I took the interior apart and checked if there was something inside and turns out the car lighter was jamming the E break, My guess is the previous owner was a teenager who liked to mess with the car alot my guess is he opened it and it fell and it got caught up yesterday :/ anyways thank you for replying awesome video!
1) you don't mention the importance of using brake cleaner, which is to not breath the asbestos dust. 2) you didn't show brake lubrication spots or use of brake lubrication. It is included with your kit or shoes. 3) just like the spring kit there is a kit to replace the parking items too.
***** ahhh, seeing as how this video wasn't about a complete brake job, I can only say duh my comment was on the wrong person's video DUH. and you are right if I had to depend on your video I would be lost. ;}
It's actually the parking brake. A "limp spring"? Sounds like you may have discovered the mark of an ass-clown that has worked on the truck before you ;)
This video was more helpful than any professional video I've been watching. Thanks for posting this, had the same issue yesterday, just watched this video, and went out and looked at the spring you showed....and BAM! THERE WAS HALF A BROKEN SPRING! Rigged the spring and my E-Brake works again! You probably just saved me $500. Thanks so much!
Hey girl!!! It's nice to see another lady mechanic. Thanks for the info!
You saved my butt on the side of the freeway!!!!❤️❤️
These trucks had the goofiest parking brake setup that I have seen in my 30+ years as a professional mechanic.
The cables were designed to be "self adjusting" - which usually meant that they held too much tension on the parking brake.
In 1994 there was a recall which added a wedge to prevent the parking brake from self adjusting and was supposed to help prevent this issue, but I have yet to see a vehicle with the recall applied.
All that said, your fix is genius and I have now used it myself.
Great job!
Hay any reason why I hear a winding sound comming from the rear of the truck after I backed off the adjustment behind the ruber on the drum breaks
This is a old post but that spring is just to keep the cable from hanging down, WHERE SHE added that heavy spring now the driver side ebrake is dragging. look how the cable is set up. The driver side is the primary cable. The issue is frozen cables or the actuator under the dash, That spring is pulling on the left rear cable now
I found the spring in Autozones help section, it’s called a pedal return spring and the long side is universal so you have to bend and cut off the excess
Thank you for posting this. I had been fighting the same problem for about 2 years. You think you have it fixed and a month later...nope. You are a Saint! Thanks again.
Holy shit, I've been having that EXACT problem with my '03 Ranger e-brake sticking. I tore into it yesterday and had a mess from burning up the right rear pads. I thought the brake arm was sticking, but I think the spring is the issue! I'm going to totally do this. Wow. Thanks for posting. Love stuff like this!
I wanted to tell you I went through 2 mechanics and the Haynes manual and none of them could figure this out. The spring and some WD40 did the trick
Cute and smart and not afraid to get dirty ,thumbs up !
Exactly the same problem on my '94 Ford Ranger. I was just getting ready to install the new cables today, and decided to do a search on UA-cam. I am going to install that spring tonight.
Thanks for posting this fix!
My father-in-law's 1997 Ranger had what my mother-in-law called a bed spring hanging down from it. I took a look and apparently my brother-in-law had borrowed the truck and when he returned it that spring you are pointing out had come loose and was dangling. I am going to use your video to make sure that I reattached it properly when I go by there soon. I knew that it was for the e-brake but I wasn't sure I connected it back exactly the way it had been. Thanks for the video!
Your video is very helpful and my husband and I appreciate your taking the time to show/explain this to all of us who are vehicle challenged. ;)
been banging my head against the wall for over an hour, fixed the broken cable and nothing worked...there was no spring there and had no idea THANK YOU
Thank you for the great pictures in this video! I had not used the emergency brake in years--I knew to use always or never. BUT I HAD TO--I thought at the moment. As explained elsewhere, the rubber coating had cracked off the cable sheathing over the years allowing water aggravated by northern winter salted roads to get inside and rust both cable and sheath. It's arguable whether frequent use would be able to do anything but postpone eventual binding, but no-use sure guarantees it.
With penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench) I soaked the exposed rusted portions of the sheathing and manipulated those and surrounding lengths with my hands, bending and twisting them to try to work the penetrant inside, and I repeated the process at least three more times. I also tapped the rust off the exposed areas with a hammer, and tapped the covered areas along the length for good measure.
However I learned the geometry of the emergency-brake lever from your fine videography and after some inspection and experimentation discovered that I could, barely, fit the tip of a large flat-blade screwdriver behind and below the wheel hub to rest on the bottom toe of the lever where the cable terminates.
I believe the penetrant helped, but hammer blows to the big screwdriver slowly drove the lever back to the home position. Of course this cannot be done with the wheel on, but I had been lucky to be able to drive the hub off the shoes by tapping around the circumference with a hammer and drift. Cutting the cable close to the hub would have been my last resort, but I would have been considering it a good bet that the binding was inside the cable and not inside the wheel.
Thanks. Be well.
Seems like you described my exact issue. I will have to give this a try and add to the post, my outcome. thank you very much for posting this. Even if it isn't the answer to my issue. I respect people, greatly, who take the time to make these videos to assist people in educating themselves and helping us to saving money. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Thanks! Just rebuilt my drums and thought some of the new parts were out of wack. Was about to attempt a cable replacement, saw this video and, sure enough, no spring whatsoever!! Fingers crossed this fixes the problem.
Excellent presentation. It's going to help me when I replace the e-brake cable from the foot pedal mechanism in the cab of the truck.
Fantastic vid! Thank you! A friend is headed over to fix a bad repair that was just done. Either the drum was reassembled wrong or the new shoes drag because of this issue. Or the cables themselves are rusted somewhere. But now I think we can figure it out! 👍
I'm about to tear apart my truck and take a look at this because I'm having problems... your video is a really great
Thanks so much for the video. It was super helpful and easy to follow. The Ranger is back on the road.
This is the best video I've seen for this issue -- thanks!
Thanks for the video. What a weird setup. This 99 Ranger came into the shop with the cables broken and in pieces. I did not have a clue how the 3 cables were supposed to hook to each other.
Great video. Thanks for the knowledge. It helped me fix my son's for ranger. We appreciate yoy.
You. Lol
I appreciate the video, hopefully this will get mine working properly. I always have to remind mechanics to NOT put it on because it drags until I can get it popped loose again. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing your fixes, more helpful than you'll ever know :-)
You are definitely you...thanks, saw my spring hangin and didn't think anything about it... I thought it was just to hold the line up...nope apparently not....See you in kansas
Nice writeup...consider me a fan. In the midst of replacing left rear e brake cable, intend to implement your spring mod as described. Thanks...subscribed.
I just bought a used ranger. The e-brake pedal was real hard to push as the cable was a bit rusted and the spring you replaced, well mine was hanging in the wind.I have a new cable on the way and I'm doing the rear brakes so I'll use one of the old springs and do what you did. Thanks....
I had retracting issues before that would keep shoes engaged, but fixed by replacing the cable. Just did this mod as it was pretty nice to have the ebrake lever come all the way up. Good timing too cause I just had brake springs replaced
Thanks a bunch 8 years later!
Put a S hook on the cable to frame take up slack. Worked for me. Quick & easy cheap.
Love the gogs. Thanks for the tip
Yep. I’ve been keeping it in gear. And praying that it don’t pop out. I do still push the E break peddle down. It goes almost to the floor. But on a steep hill, it won’t work. If the hill is only slightly steep, - then it will work. So I’m just kinda wondering. I suppose I need to take a look at what I got. AND the condition of the spring. Thanks.
on my ranger there is only one place for the spring to go. my cables split into right and left further down. The one spring is supposed to retract both sides..
Yes, i just used a spring from the drum brake hardware kit.
Excellent video. Thank you.
I THINK THIS IS MY ISSUE! I bought a ranger yesterday and drove it home 5.5hours with a dragging e brake. Got 13.6mpg...
I took the drum off today and it came off easy but the hub/axle still sticks for 1/4 of the rotation. Anyways I noticed a rusty old spring hanging right near where yours is that isn't connected to ANYTHING. Thanks for the help!
That answered why my e-brake would not release... you just saved my $100 I was gonna change all the cables and it would still not work...
mine is a 1994 ford ranger XLT.. I dont know if you have the same set up.
I bought the Drum Brake hardware kit. It contains hard ware for either the right or left wheels. either would be fine.....
Although I would make sure it isnt anything to do with your manual transmission or the hydraulic clutch... But if u dont see movement wnen e brake is released, or the tires are hard to turn when car is up on lift and stick is in neutral and brake is released - then u got problems
This is great! Have been having the same problem with sticky brake, and getting so I wouldn't wan yo use it. I'll try this, thanks!!
Nice post. Perfect explanation.
Tank girl 2019!
So, is it normal for the e brake pedal to have to go all the way to the floor and then some for it to hold?
Got a similar problem on the 1992 f350 dually 7.3 idi. The E brake cable is seized and very loose and the right rear wheel has a brake fluid leak.
I'm having the same issue and I tore into mine decided to put new brakes on it and discovered that the left driver-side brakes don't have the spreader bar between the brakes for the ebrake. Is that normal does the left side not have that bar across the top?
Got the same problem on my ranger, have to replace the whole assembly and all and not sure where to start, drums or pedal...
Thanks for the video. Nice to see women can do whatever a man can do and better.
My recent purchase of a 2001 Mazda B4000 didn't even have one or provision to install one, so I'm going to find a way to install one.
Thanks for taking the time to reveal this short coming on Mazda Trucks.
Cheers!
All I know about this Ebreak video is I'm in love with this beauty, OMG come fix my breaks sweets!
Thx for the info . My 2000 ranger doesn’t even have a spring . 😮
I have a '93, the cable has a ton of slack so it seems, and overall the e-brake barely engages. I believe this is an issue of a stretched cable as the truck has about 180k on it, and the e-brake has been used regularly throughout its life. Thoughts?
Rod
My 98 had a rusted in half spring with froze cables , then found a busted leafspring so I got new leafsprings with 6 leafs per side instead of 2 like the ones that was on it, then while I'm in to it everything that unbolts is getting replaced with new usa made parts and a new 8.8 rearend with 5.13 gears and 6.5 inch lift and a new front end with 6 in lift with new 15x10 rims with 35 inch tires and miner body work and new camo paint job and a 400 small block with muncie 4 speed
WTH is a leaver? 😊😊
Looks like the 93 is the same configuration as my 94. It's possible the cable has stretched. There is no adjustment to tighten up the slack on these except the e brake pedal as far as I know.. If the brake pads are worn down excessively you will also have slack..you will probably have to remove the drum to see what is going on. It really is impossible to do a good diagnosis without seeing what the pads are doing when when pedal is depressed and released, and to see the motion of the cable itself...
would this apply to a full sz trk ,say an f250 ?my p-brake
cable has broke. Your Vids are helpful,Thnx.
i have the same problem thanks for the advice
Thankx sis i gota check mine its not working right.
Hi thank for your video this helps a lot do you have a video about replacing the cable?
Thanks.
Awesome, thank you!
i have to repaet this cause it did not put year numbers on. I have a 1988 ford tempo with emergency brake problems. The Handle will not pull upward when i try it,..it is locked in downward position and from feel od car it is causing severe grag. How do i release it?
Ive had my ranger for 7 years and never used the e brake because of this lol. Does that spring work both driver and passenger side? And thats just tue drum brake hardware kit spring u used instead right?
Got a 91 explorer, e-brake won't release. Can't get drum off or drive it at this point. Got any ideas? If I can at least drive it to the shop, that would help.
So it's not just my Ranger that has a jacked up looking e-brake line. I thought maybe someone had cobbled mine together.
i have a ford f150 1989 pickup truck the brakes lock up the only way to un engage (to free it again) it is by backing up to free it but then drive a little bit it will lock up again. is the parking brake the problem, or something else?
Funny this video has little relevance to my situation but compelling to watch all through. my Ford Tauruses ebrake is sticking after replacing front and back pads thought it damn near caught fire in my attempt to go to work this morning but only I the driver side rear tire which interested me because when I change those pads it went like clockwork though passenger rear needed to caliper rebuild so why did disengage the cable from its actuator but I'm sure I put it back just how it was perhaps you have cultivated the knowledge advise me properly. still wasn't what made it so oddly important 2 finishtho. forgive the cornyness of this, i have no other words to express this vibe that struck me. feels so kindred to disregard anyway, i think i was once the man f our dreams, unconditionally,.. what a trip any chance ur PHX girl hah.
Great! I am going get up under there and see what the hell, I was thinking that someone I lent the truck to put the E brake on and then drove it till it burned up, I have been pretty pissed about it, my Mazda B3000 ( ford ranger ) nov 93 = 1994 model, is not auto. its a 4x4 and Used the E brake EVERY time I parked. now its freaking useless. Been driving me crazy but i haven't got around to taking all apart yet. I found this 1 st search. awesome vid. You know you are awesome right?
Well holy shit, thanks for that video!, you solved my problem!
I think everyone that watched the video loves you, what the hell why not.
help. I have an ** for Tempo,..the E brake handle will not lift upward and i am sure my e brake is causing drag. What do i do. Any videos on this?
Thank you. Very helpful.
Nice fix
TY, you give me a chuckle
I think you just solved my E-Brake problem...
Do you have any suggestions for newcomers? I'm just getting into mechanics, and am pretty lost. I'm sure hands-on experience is the only way to _know_ the vehicle, but did you have any resources that really "set you free" that you could reference?
Also, what's it like being awesome? :P
I had to make an adjustment on both sides to free up the forward motion break drag. There was no drag in reverse. But I couldn't get it to move forward. After the adjustment I noticed a winding sound wtf is wrong now
are these brakes easy to adjust to tighten them? i push my e brake in all the way and nothing happens.
Unfortunately the ranger ebrake is not adjustable. I would replace left and right cables as it sounds like the cables are overly stretched
Nice 💯
Hi I own a lumina S aka commodore sv6 out of no where my E-break got stuck is it a part thing? Cause I don't know how much it'll cost to fix can you tell me what it could be other than what you showed in the video :c
sorry I am not familiar with Luminas or Commodores. But if you never use the e-brake it can get stuck due to never using it.
I always use it that's why it was so weird! Thank you for taking the time to reply, I took the interior apart and checked if there was something inside and turns out the car lighter was jamming the E break, My guess is the previous owner was a teenager who liked to mess with the car alot my guess is he opened it and it fell and it got caught up yesterday :/ anyways thank you for replying awesome video!
Yeah, sometimes you find the weirdest things causing the problem. Good detective work !
It was good that it was a simple thing, I had no money to buy the parts if something was broken phew!
thank you very much, your the one
Does anyone who used this fix remember what brake spring they used?
Regular brake drum hardware kit spring , any year or model they tend to only change size
good job
This is from 9 years ago holy shit.... Well in that case hit me up!
You say "leever", I say "lever". Tomaato, tomato. Potaato, potato. Lets call the whole thing off.
I’m prying too. lol
thanks pretty cool !!!!!!!
you're awesome.
I didn't think about the spring -- I know now.
1) you don't mention the importance of using brake cleaner, which is to not breath the asbestos dust. 2) you didn't show brake lubrication spots or use of brake lubrication. It is included with your kit or shoes. 3) just like the spring kit there is a kit to replace the parking items too.
If you are only using my video to learn how to work on cars, boy are you in trouble, LOL
*****
ahhh, seeing as how this video wasn't about a complete brake job, I can only say duh my comment was on the wrong person's video DUH. and you are right if I had to depend on your video I would be lost. ;}
dejanira2 You make no sense. You are dismissed.
thx Sym
Bella😍
Thanks you're cool!!!
Where do I send the $20.00, it's the absolute least any of us could do.
❤
A cute female mechanic that works on RANGERS and MOTORCYCLES? Be still my beating heart!!!
Snapppppp!
You pulled it out....then had someone else guide it in....oh man I'm totally seeing that..mmmm
ᗒ╬ᗕ1112223333111ᗒ╬ᗕ pervert
It's actually the parking brake.
A "limp spring"? Sounds like you may have discovered the mark of an ass-clown that has worked on the truck before you ;)
Nice google
drag
wow its a girl!!! omg!!! she's beautiful
Excellent, thanks