my daughter makes all kinds of great things w/ polymer clay, and I make scroll saw art. so this will be great for us... I like the polymer clay, you can paint it , glaze it , whatever you want to do...and it's great for my artistic teenager to hone her skills !
One tip concerning removing the extra clay...use a polymer clay blade and easily shave it off flush before baking. Then once baked you wouldn't have all of that sanding to do...only a touch up.
I try it more time, and last time...on 110 C° and about 15 - 20 min (without aluminium) the clay was in some way....burned. I have the same clay. For shore I will try again with aluminium and see the result. I appreciate Your tutorials. Tank You.
Using the backing-board technique, as you have here, I can't see any reason why you couldn't have cut out the letters out completely and then just glued the loose middle bits of the P and the A onto the backing board. That way you would have much better looking whole letters instead of the stencilled effect that you have here.
Hi Alan. I don't have anything against doing it either way. In the world of scroll saw patterns, stencil fonts are often used in this type of project. Some people don't like the looks of stencil fonts so at least there are options.
@@stevegood3224 Hi, Steve. It wasn't meant as a criticism, more an observation. In general I have learnt a colossal amount about scroll saw work from watching your videos, thank you. I learnt on a Proxxon and have now graduated to a lovely 21" Excalibur-clone, made by them but labelled as Axminster Tools in the UK. Onwards and upwards. 👍🏻
@@alangeorgebarstow Yes, the Axminster is a wonderful tool. I still have my old Excalibur EX21 and it works as well as the day I got it several years ago. Thanks for the kind words. No criticism was taken. It has been a slow week so I have tried to respond to a few UA-cam comments.
I have used epoxy in scroll saw projects before and they worked fine. In the video above I used polymer clay because it is so easy and fast. The epoxy does look better in my opinion.
@@stevegood3224 thx Steve. Was thinking of a stain glass type effect. Do you have a table saw blade recommendation for resawing without a bandsaw? I assume a flat tooth type. Thx again!
@@PureBloodWNC Resawing on the table saw is not something I have any experience with so I'll pass on that question. I would hate to give bad advice. I have a floor model band saw that I resaw with. Sorry I am not more helpful.
my daughter makes all kinds of great things w/ polymer clay, and I make scroll saw art. so this will be great for us... I like the polymer clay, you can paint it , glaze it , whatever you want to do...and it's great for my artistic teenager to hone her skills !
thanks for everything you share you are an excellent teacher
One tip concerning removing the extra clay...use a polymer clay blade and easily shave it off flush before baking. Then once baked you wouldn't have all of that sanding to do...only a touch up.
Great Video, Thanks for sharing and all of your hard work.
I try it more time, and last time...on 110 C° and about 15 - 20 min (without aluminium) the clay was in some way....burned.
I have the same clay.
For shore I will try again with aluminium and see the result.
I appreciate Your tutorials.
Tank You.
Great. I have watched many of your videos. I need help hiding the hole for an inlay project. Is there one video of yours that cover this?
sei bravissimo complimenti continua cosi prendo spunto dai tuoi progetti per imparare
Got some polymer clay they other day, going to try it out soon
sei bravissimo
nice work mate! Interesting technique!
sei bravissimo complimenti
What are some wood types do you use? Do you like bass wood?
Steve, you do a lot of military patterns. Is there a chance that you are considering doing the Seabees emblem?
My father was a Seabee in Vietnam. Two tours. I would love to cut one of these for my father.
sei bravissimo complimenti continua cosi
where do you find he Polymer Clay??
Using the backing-board technique, as you have here, I can't see any reason why you couldn't have cut out the letters out completely and then just glued the loose middle bits of the P and the A onto the backing board. That way you would have much better looking whole letters instead of the stencilled effect that you have here.
Hi Alan. I don't have anything against doing it either way. In the world of scroll saw patterns, stencil fonts are often used in this type of project. Some people don't like the looks of stencil fonts so at least there are options.
@@stevegood3224 Hi, Steve. It wasn't meant as a criticism, more an observation. In general I have learnt a colossal amount about scroll saw work from watching your videos, thank you. I learnt on a Proxxon and have now graduated to a lovely 21" Excalibur-clone, made by them but labelled as Axminster Tools in the UK. Onwards and upwards. 👍🏻
@@alangeorgebarstow Yes, the Axminster is a wonderful tool. I still have my old Excalibur EX21 and it works as well as the day I got it several years ago. Thanks for the kind words. No criticism was taken. It has been a slow week so I have tried to respond to a few UA-cam comments.
Scroll saw plus colored epoxy? Yes/no? Why?
I have used epoxy in scroll saw projects before and they worked fine. In the video above I used polymer clay because it is so easy and fast. The epoxy does look better in my opinion.
@@stevegood3224 thx Steve. Was thinking of a stain glass type effect.
Do you have a table saw blade recommendation for resawing without a bandsaw? I assume a flat tooth type.
Thx again!
@@PureBloodWNC Resawing on the table saw is not something I have any experience with so I'll pass on that question. I would hate to give bad advice. I have a floor model band saw that I resaw with. Sorry I am not more helpful.
@@stevegood3224 completely understand. Thx sir
I've got some prejudice against polymer clay... looks "glittery" and requires... baking... nah.
but good job on the vid.
sei bravissimo