Record breaking 6.0 powerstroke dyno. Highest HP 6.0 ever AT THE ULTIMATE CALLOUT CHALLENGE
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
- The warren diesel injection team sets a new world record HP number for the 6.0 powerstroke on a chassis dyno at 1910hp at the #ucc19 #ultimatecalloutchallenge #warrendiesel
Gives me as a 6.0 owner some pride
It sure does
Same
Absolutely lmao
That's odd..
Hell ya it does!
A 6.0 that makes this much power is a feat of engineering this guy is a rocket scientist
@@chris1451 lmao!
chris1451 not true lol I’m studded and blew the heads right off. They are running kdd heads. It’s the way to go when wanting to build power and not worry about gaskets going because of the orings
christopher jr dougherty factory when they blew
eric reyes factory is not studded lol
Michael Argo talking about breads there smart guy. Don’t hurt yourself
One of the best sounds I think I’ve ever heard... between him spooling up the turbos, then cracking the whip... good god. Respect.
Look in the fender well at how hot the manifold got at 58 seconds, that is insane!
holy good call
EGTs? Yes.
Im gonna go out on a limb here and say it’s studded
Hmmmm I'm thinking so.
@@BUILTDIESELMAFIA im not sure but it might even have a better oil cooler
@@explicitsnipes I'm thinking you could be right.
No bolts, no studs, welded block.
What head gasket ya got on ther aeh
The fact it came back down to a decent sounding idle after is what amazed me. Built right 👍
1910hp! And it didn’t break!! That’s how it’s supposed to work!
And for almost a full second, too. Wow!
@@blythkd9017 a full second more than a Cummins!
Right. I’m not a Cummins fan boy, I’ve always been mostly a Bowtie guy, but the Cummins is amazing on a dyno with big HP parts. I’m not disrespecting the 6.0, it’s very stout. Too bad International missed the mark on the head bolts and screwed up the fuel and hi pressure oil system going from the 7.3 to the 6.0. If the 6.0 had 6 head bolts per cyl and a fuel system as good as the 7.3 and better EGR cooler, we’d probably all be sitting around singing it’s praises like we do the 7.3.
@@blythkd9017 You obviously don't know what your talking about. The 6.0 fuel and oil system are way better than the 7.3. how do you think he just put down 1900hp? 4 head studs don't seem to be stopping WDI either.
@@240sxRule I guess it just comes down to what you consider "better." If you call having to carry injectors in your glovebox and install them on the side of the road, then yes, the 6.0 is better. 7.3's run for 300k routinely without fuel system service. I'm just talking about the average highway truck, not the 2000HP variety. Not 1 guy in a 1000 cares about that much HP, they just care about getting to where they're going without breaking down.
Ford's are so awesome!
Only after a farmer fixes it, they are not awsome straight off the assembly line.
International* ford didn't make the engine.
@@teds4983
Actually the French company, Renault made that engine.
@@johncholmes643 they made international? That's a 6.0
@@teds4983 But Ford did make the Trucks, International supplied the Powerstrokes.
I'm stunned at this power for a truck that's crazy...salute
Some many people hating. Go Warren Diesel.
They are jealous they're truck doesn't have that much power
There's Pride right there 6.0 is a Powerhouse when it's finished
Nice job WDI I can’t wait to come back in to your guys shop to get my wife’s 6.0 built just like you did mine great people to work with when it comes down to working on a 6.0 the guys that work there no what there talking about when it comes to the 6.0
I’m not a 6.0 owner but I’d be going to Warren Diesel Injection for one to be built. Damn!
Absolutely!!!
SONDS LIKE 7000 RPM
I’m sure some guys cousin has one they built in the garage out back behind the trailer that makes twice as much power !
Moma didn't love you much did she
Hell Yeah Jesse !!! This Truck is Fucking Insane. 6.0 Power !!!
Monster 👊
Didn't even know you can rev a 6.0 that high lol
I didnt know they could even run that long
Yeah, I was watching on my phone and I held it at arms length and turned my head like my phone was going to explode or something.
@@71sc502 they run well. The 6.4 on the other hand…
Sick!
Seen her on a flat bed at the shop Decided to look em up glade I did crazy it was 2 years ago
When you are forced to run your tow pig because your actual callout truck broke lol
Jesse's White Truck is far from a Tow Pig, probably the most powerful 6.0 out there, Besides maybe Shark Bait, Jesse's Yellow pulling Truck.
That's so sweet !!!!
Good god. How high did that beast rev?
What was the torque number? And before some idiot says the dyno isnt able to read the torque #s, its perfectly capable of reading the torque #
2209
Where did you ever here Dyno,s don't show Torque numbers ? I never heard that before.
Didn't expect anything less
This thing will gap anything in the car community
What was the torque number!!!?!?!?!
Dyno may not be capable of measuring the torque
@@1994F150L Very true, Didnt think about that!
2209
BUILT DIESEL MAFIA damn lol that’s awesome
@@BUILTDIESELMAFIA Well shit.
Sounds like a shot of nitrous at 0:55 . Wonder what the rules are
Nitrous is absolutely allowed.
@@BUILTDIESELMAFIA. Makes me wonder even more how much these guys spend on these trucks!
@vitriol or debate how much are their budgets?
@@lumberjaketreeservicellc4002 that engine only lasts a short period of time. That truck easily has over 200k invested in it, how many engines and transmissions it's been through that number goes to like 500k
No rules. make the most hp possible and still have a running truck to drag race the next day and truck pull on Sunday Firepunk won it a couple years in a row because they had a complete different motor and set-up for each event so no budget either almost all these guys are industry leaders in aftermarket diesel parts
Holy crap! That's crazy!!!!!👍
First of all it's a Ford that's all a lot of Pride right there and it's a 6.0 engine awesome engine
Nice
right at the end of the pull where you see white mist coming out around the bed, that is clearly a NOS injection.
It is not. The truck is running nitrous however thats actually water spraying out that you see there.
No it's Not, Nitrous, C'mon man, it's the God Damn Intercooler. Nitrous, that was funny Shit.
It is "Clearly NOT" Nitrous Oxide. If you don't know what the Hell you talking about please Don't comment, Don't know why people spread False Information if they have No Clue what there talking about.
What turbo you running cause I’m trying to find a big turbo that can withstand a lot of horsepower but none are compatible?
I had to replay that lol! Best Diesel engine for a truck out there
I would like to have seen the torque curve on that run. HP is great but the torque is the importance factor. If it holding true to form for a diesel it should of put out close to 4000 foot pounds of torque.
My guess for a 6.0 with those hp #'s... tq somewhere between 2800 and 3200
Torque was 2209.
When you make that much power and rev it that high the hp-tq gap shortens greatly
I never take a engine over 3400 and a good rule is a stronger horsepower to torque and that is 2 pound per horsepower sure it will go higher but I am after consistent torque for towing. And it has no rpm limiter on it. You have to change or the engine will shut down on high manifold pressure.
@@theodorefreeman3173 definitely don't think he's going to be using his 1900hp truck to tow... Or is worrying about high manifold pressure
Torque??
Would that fit in my Honda?
Imagine the torque
1910hp worth of tq
That 6.0 of Warren Johnson is totally on fucking believable that is one badass machine I give anybody credit that's got that 6.0 and gets it done that's an awesome engine
Warren Johnson ? That's NHRA Pro Stock driver, this is Jesse Warren, close but Not the same person.
My boss made the mistake of buying a used truck with a 6.0 for me to use on my delivery route. 3 months later, I was at a stop light I accelerated, and heard a LOUD bang. I found I couldn't go more the 3 mph. I made it to a ford dealer who said it blew the top off 3 pistons.
Nope I'm calling bs first off if you blew the top off of three Pistons it would cock the piston sideways jamming it in the cylinder head which would immediately stop the motor and kick a rod out the side you wouldn't have to worry about going 3 miles an hour you wouldn't have any RPM mile per hour doesn't matter when an engine blows just cuz you're going slow doesn't mean an engine can still run with three Pistons gone what you're saying is literally impossible so don't try and play the 6L suck card you clearly know nothing there's tons of ways to make a six over liable just cuz your boss bought a clapped one doesn't mean anything. furthermore if you actually blew the tops off the Pistons they would have hit the top of the cylinder head which usually ruins an injector which means it would have started pissing oil seeing as they have a huey setup there's a lot of inconsistencies in your story it just doesn't make sense
@@Tylerstace-smith LOL you way over explained how his story is not possible .
@@Tylerstace-smith if his story was true that truck wouldn't have went more than 5 ft after it blew up. And four feet would have been after the blown engine
You are so full of shit . It wouldn't matter what engine it was gas or diesel. You blow three fucking pistons you ain't moving more than 5 ft. after the motor blows.
@@markmorris6208 Do you know what auto correct is????? I typed the word "out" and the system changed it to "off". what actually happened was the tip of the injectors came off inside the chamber and they went THRU the top of the piston. there was a hole in 3 pistons big enough to put a finger in. all the rings were intact and YES IT WAS RUNNING. If you really need proof call the dealer in Waseca MN and ask for Jeff!
And what was all that mist looking stuff from the rear at 0:55
Torque?
2209
I would love to know what all you did to it to get that much power out of it? Like injector size turbo or turbos intake and so on. A build sheet
its jesse warren. he builds injectors and 6.0 parts. its twin turbo probably 500cc injectors hella cam and so on
@@cs-gj3yf thanks for the reply and info
What head studs they running?? 1910 hp and didn’t lift the head 🤯
And the tires were spinning
How much boost was that ?
I from miami where is the best place I need put my 6.0 in the dyno ?
SWEET !!!!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
About the only Ford in this motor might be the block an I'm sure it's been sleeved among other things. I don't see how a stock crank ,rods,pistons an heads could even support this horsepower. But I know if you throw a big enough turbo, nitrous and fuel system anything is possible. How long will it last I don't know.
Theres actually a ton of ford left in that 6.0 its pretty crazy how wll its held up over the beating its taken. Warren diesel has really pushed the 6.0 platform forward.
There's 0% Ford in this engine, it's made by International Not Ford, like ALL Powerstrokes until 2011. That was Ford's first Diesel, the 6.7 Powerstroke.
It’s so annoying how a Cummins can make 3000 hp, I guess because it’s so balanced. Psd ftw though
So, what parts of this engine did Ford actually make? Is this even still a 6.0 block?
Yep 6.0 block.
@@BUILTDIESELMAFIA Are any of Fords machined surfaces still in place? Bearings, cylinders, decks, etc?
Doubtful. No different than the cummins and duramaxs at this level.
Operator 801 yes stock block, stock heads highly ported, billet pistons & Rods, stock crank. solid lifter cam setup, 625 arp studs.
@@BUILTDIESELMAFIA For sure, that wasn't a dig at Ford, just rolling my eyes at calling it a Ford 6.0L when Ford had exactly nothing to do with the quality of the final product.
What sprayed out behind it?
Was the Intercooler Piping, they running probably Ice Water, no Air to Air Intercoolers at this level of performance.
I’m deeply sorry to say this....but I had to trade my 07 SuperCab in for a 6.4 SuperCrew because my boys are a gittin older and I we needed more room😁
Get anything but a 6.4 that truck will be nothing but problems
And I’m not saying it because I dislike fords, I actually only own fords and don’t get a 6.4 they are so expensive to maintain and won’t be reliable no matter what you do since you can’t bulletproof a 6.4 like a 6.0
I wonder how much torque it made seems like it instant redlined lmao gotta be close to 2000 if not more impressive
Try 3500
Fuck yeah
but how much torque though?
Caleb VeeDub all of it
2209
Aint this the beast that plowed into the wall during the 1/8 mile drag runs?
Juicy J I think that was a cummins powered ford
No
whats the white smoke from the bed
Looks like something in the back blew a hose or something idk maybe water meth injection or cooler of ice water for inercooler idk its definitely liquid tho i saws it too but not bad for a 6.0
Was water reservoir/tank it blew apart.
Needs head gaskets. Again.
@@pixel288 Yea thats a big negative, they ran the next day and blew the turbo, shit happens.
Shannen Thor wasn’t that powerstroke named “last minute hooker”? The turbo came apart and it induced a runaway causing a massive fire.
What mods are on this?
Pretty much everything you can for a 6.0 Platform, it's a fully built race piece.
Jesus christ
Looked like a controlled runaway to me. 🙃
Someone on here was telling me that the 6.0 wasn't a good and reliable diesel engine. Was he lying to me?
They are fine once the stupid smog crap is stripped off.
I know this comment is late and I apologize that it's long and I'm typing it as if you don't really know much about the 6.0 or engines or pickups in general but, the reality is, the 6.0 was NOT considered a "reliable" engine IN STOCK FORM (as it comes from the factory). There are many owners that will unfortunately back this up as evident by the many stories online in various forums as well as many videos and so on.
HOWEVER, the 6.0 CAN be made into a "more reliable" engine for sure. But, as with probably just about any engine, of course it can be made "more reliable" if you have the money to make it that way.
Unfortunately though, the 6.0 suffers from one SUPER MAJOR design flaw that just can't be helped which is the simple fact that it only has 4 head stud bolts per cylinder holding/clamping the heads to the engine. This is a HUUUUGE downfall especially since it also has a turbo charger increasing the already high combustion pressures.
I say that this "can't be helped" because this is the way the engine is designed and manufactured/made. So, unless someone were to have the ability (financially mainly) to come out and completely redesign the engine and produce it AND MORE IMPORTANTLY, make it work with the other existing components, accessories, and the truck itself, you can't change this fact as ALL of the 6.0 engines are manufactured this way.
So, the best you can do is "deal" with this problem as it is and just try to improve upon what it already is by using better parts or techniques when overhauling, repairing, or modifying 0these engines.
If you do some research, you'll notice that most of the diesel engines out there that have been considered "reliable" by most people's standards have 6 or more head bolts or studs per cylinder to keep the head surface mated to the engine block surface as best as possible.
In semi truck engines which are even larger, they may have 8 bolts/studs per cylinder or maybe even more which obviously provides even better clamping for the heads to the engine. But, for the sake of this discussion relating to pickup trucks, the older 7.3 Powerstroke and newer 6.7 Powerstroke diesel engines that were put into Ford pickups have 6 bolts/studs per cylinder.
This is better at keeping the head mated to the engine deck surface and thus reduces or almost eliminates ANY combustion gasses or pressure from escaping the combustion chamber area so you can keep parts running longer. Hence, this is why so many people regard the old "tried and true" 7.3 as one of the most reliable diesel engines put in a truck. But, now that the 6.7 has been out for so long and shown to have very minimal issues with the engine itself, many people feel that the 6.7 is damn near as reliable.
The downfall with the newer 6.7 is that it has more emissions "stuff" to deal with which can inadvertently cause engine problems or other "not cheap" and inconvenient issues that can, and do, leave you on the side of the road so it's a toss up of which engine can really be considered "reliable".
With the case of the 6.0 (and the 6.4 as well even though that's not this discussion), what happens is the pressures get so high that they let combustion gasses escape which can cause these same gasses to go into the cooling system which can cause problems with overheating and other things. And, it can cause problems with power loss as well as lower fuel economy, overall efficiency, poorer emissions, overall engine life and so on.
Long story short, it's just simply not good to allow the combustion pressures or gasses go anywhere other than where they are designed to go. Unfortunately, the 6.0 has an issue of not keeping them contained so it causes problems.
What many people have done is replace the factory head bolts with standard ARP (that's the brand name) head studs which are "supposed to" (in theory) do a better job of keeping the cylinder head clamped down or more squarely kept in place or perpendicular to the block during operation. This is extremely important when you've got a turbo trying to "squeeze" even more air/pressure into the chambers.
The problem is, the "theory" that using the standard ARP head studs to "make things all better" is not necessarily the answer due to many people being misled over the years or just not understanding the situation.
You see, Ford (like other manufacturers as well) use what's called TTY or "Torque To Yield" head bolts for many of their engine designs and builds. These bolts are supposed to be made of material that can adjust to different operating temperatures to stay a certain shape or retain a certain load or force. Since an engine can have hundreds of thousands or maybe even millions of cycles of different temperatures from negative 30 or 40 below to above 115 degrees, during operation, the bolts need to be able to expand and contract or "stretch" and retain their clamping ability over many cycles of the engine's operation.
The thing is, "most" people think that the bolts have lost their ability to retain their shape or maintain the clamping force that is needed to hold the heads in place as they should. In other words, people "think" the bolts have "stretched out" during use. So, the ideal "fix" is to put better bolts or an alternative in place to hold the heads down better.
Well, many people feel that ARP's standard head studs are a better option as head studs are typically supposed to provide better overall clamping forces and/or retain that clamping force over longer periods of time so the head studs "should" keep the cylinder heads from "lifting" or allowing combustion gasses to escape during use and/or longer periods of time.
In other words, less breakdowns hopefully.
Typically, the problems are more pronounced when people put a different tune in their truck than stock which typically creates more turbo boost (pressure) squeezing into the combustion chambers thus "lifting" the heads off of the engine block deck surface (the surface the head gasket is supposed to seal to).
The thing is though, I've watched a person (his channel is called "TooManyToys" and he's a 17 time Master Certified ASE Technician) who did a comparison between the standard "stock" Ford TTY bolts and ARP's standard head studs and they found that the stock bolts from Ford had just as much clamping force as ARP's head studs. And I believe they actually may have said that the stock bolts may have "potentially" had more clamping force though I don't want you to quote me on that as I don't want to make claims that they didn't state so, check their videos out yourself.
I believe this person even did a lot of research and found that the majority of owners that were having problems with their 6.0 trucks were ones that did NOT have the "stock" programming (tune) in their truck. People want to go fast or haul heavier loads so they change the tune to force the engine to do things that put more stress on it. As a result, you have bad things that happen.
There are some people that think if people were to keep the stock tune in the truck and never modify it, they would have hardly any issues. But, of course, that's not going to happen since people ALWAYS want "more". Well, then there are consequences since the engine has its design flaws already.
I don't know if they tested if Ford's bolts would retain the same clamping force over a given period of time but either way, the point is, there is likely a big misconception of people thinking that the stock bolts are the problem when in reality they likely are not.
Now, I keep saying "standard" when referring to the ARP head studs because they do have different kinds and it has to do with peak or average tensile strength or clamping force I believe.
ARP does make a better model of head stud for the 6.0 that I believe is considered a "competition" head stud but it runs about $1200 and up for a complete set of head studs. I believe it's supposed to have a higher tensile strength so it's designed for harsher conditions like many racers would want. In comparison, the "standard" set can be found for around $400 or just over. So, I believe most people choose the lower cost set for obvious reasons. Plus, for "most" applications/uses, the standard set should take care of most people's needs.
The one problem with the head stud debate at this point is that so many people believe that head studs are the answer to improving the reliability of the engine so much that, if anyone is selling a Ford truck with a 6.0, it is a good thing to have them installed as a selling point.
So many people "think" that the 6.0 needs head studs that if you sell one without them already installed, then people don't hold the truck's value as high since many people would consider having to either pay someone to install them or install them themselves. Either way, it's more time and money to invest in the truck and if they are paying someone else to do it, it could be more than a few hundred dollars and upwards of at least a grand or more.
@eldridge201 thanks for the detailed information...my uncle has a 6.0 and he can not get it to start or can't get it to stay running after it starts. Says he's tried all kinds of things to no avail
@@dalephillips8250 tell him to join the forum called "Ford Truck Enthusiasts". There are members on there that used to be techs but actually, there are some members that never worked as techs but have more knowledge than an actual Ford tech because they are just so damn smart when it comes to these trucks.
There are some with ASE certifications and others that own quite a few diesels and just understand them really well. And, many owners that have come up with better ways of doing certain things like maintenance and repairs than even Ford recommends.
The thing is, with the 6.0, they can be finnicky engines to work on and you really need to understand how they operate and what is needed to get them to start and then run properly. They aren't like a lot of other engines.
Sure, they are similar to the 7.3 Powerstroke in some regards but yet still different.
A hard start or no start or long crank condition could be a number of things. But, one of them could very well be the HPOP or High Pressure Oil Pump. Although they actually do have 2 oil pumps in these engines ( a low pressure pump to feed the high pressure one), the low pressure pump doesn't seem to go out or have issues as often.
Due to the extremely high pressures that the injectors require (I think it's somewhere in the range of 15,000 to 25,000 PSI during operation and maybe up to as much as 30,000 PSI but don't quote me on that), the high pressure oil pump and the oiling system in general needs to be in really good operating order for the truck to start and run correctly.
The 6.0 has been notorious for having issues with internal oil leak issues from certain O-rings and dummy plugs and so on. You can do your own research online as there is plenty of info out there now about this. The thing is, if there is a major leak in the oil supply system, then the HPOP won't be able to operate effectively to get the proper oil pressures and volume to the right components (mainly the injectors) for the truck to start and run correctly.
As I mentioned, the injectors operate based mainly on not only fuel supply (obviously) but oil pressure and volume. They control the flow so if the oil system is faulty somehow, then the truck won't start or run.
Also, it can be something as stupid as low oil or poor oil quality. Since there has to be a certain amount of oil supply to get to the HPOP properly, if the oil level is 3 or 4 quarts low, the truck may not run properly or start at all.
I know some people have claimed that they can get their 6.0 to run even if it's as much as 6 or even 7 quarts low but I've heard many owners and techs say that they can have issues even with oil level being only 3 quarts low. But also, if the oil quality itself is poor due to long oil change intervals or being in bad conditions such as really dusty environments or dirt or whatever, then this will affect the starting or running as well.
So, you really need to make sure you're changing the oil at at no more than 7k or 8k and usually 5k if you're using it to haul things regularly. Most owners just stick to the 5k intervals just to keep the oil quality good.
If your uncle can't get his truck to start, I would first make sure the oil level is up to where it needs to be but also consider an oil change if it's been a long time since the last one.
Just so you're aware, the computer has to get a signal from the IPR sensor to tell the injectors to fire and it won't do this unless there is a reading of AT LEAST 500 psi from this sensor MINIMUM. So, if it doesn't reach this figure, then you need to figure out why.
Another problem could be a plugged IPR sensor and this is on the passenger's side valve cover toward the front. If you unplug this sensor and get the truck to start, then you may have an issue with the sensor or it could indicate that there is an issue with the oil system in general that needs servicing. There could be many things. But, at the very least, if you unplug this sensor and it starts, then it at least sends you in one direction to start with.
I believe unplugging this sensor can send the truck sort of into a "limp mode" and it may disregard the signal from the IPR so it forces the computer to compensate for this lack of signal and it does certain things to get the truck to start. I'll admit, I don't understand this diagnostic procedure completely but I just know that many owners and techs have even suggested using this as an option.
For more info about this, you can do some research on that forum or online or even watch some videos about hard start, no start, or long crank conditions for the 6.0.
Of course another thing to consider is fuel quality and supply. If the truck is in colder climate and the fuel is gelled up, then that's obviously going to be a problem. If the fuel quality is bad, then that's obviously a problem as well.
Also, something as simple as having a non stock oil filter cap can cause issues as well which sounds stupid but there's a reason why this is true. Many people won't use the original Ford cap and go and buy an oil filter from Napa or wherever and not realize that "some" of these filters with the caps will not allow the filter to push the spring at the bottom of the oil filter housing all the way down like it needs to be. It's either that or it doesn't release properly. It's one of the two. Either way, the point is, people don't realize that the aftermarket filters are not made to the proper specifications as the original filter so it causes oil pressure and supply issues.
I'm not saying that Napa is one of them but I think it might be. The best advice is to just not use anything but a Ford filter and THE ORIGINAL Ford oil filter cap to ensure there are not issues.
Also, another thing is to make sure that you have both batteries charged up properly so that there is plenty of juice to get it started. Although the truck "can" start with batteries that are partially drained, I know that many of the owners in the forums mention how this is something that needs to be kept up as proper battery power is crucial to having enough juice to send to the FICM and other things.
There is just so much to consider.
But, if your uncle is willing to do some research, they might be able to figure it out.
As long as the engine itself isn't in bad operational order such as low compression and so on, it would likely be something to do with the oil system or fuel supply. Or, it could be as simple as a sensor that is bad.
It's really hard to tell over the internet. We would need to get more data from a scan tool of some sort to read some sensors as the truck is cranking and so on.
Holly fuk
worlds most powerful boat anchor is a squirter!
Isnt that average for a built Cummins or Duramax?
Lol no.
@@BUILTDIESELMAFIA so if i go through and find a bunch of engines using the same level of build and tuning you're telling me no....
Its on par for most cummins and duramaxs, veryyyyy impressive for a 6leaker though lol it wont last long thats for sure though lol
@@mattyboy7272 that's what I was thinking
@@mattyboy7272 no truck running that power will last long...
You know he’s on stock head bolts lol
Logan Cobb #68 there’s no such thing
6.0 has a low compressor engine
Still havent got 2000 :(
7.3’s already making that