DIY Bookcloth; Filling with Media // Adventures in Bookbinding
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- Опубліковано 12 чер 2024
- This video demonstrates how to turn fabric into #bookcloth by filling with various media. Three types of media will be demonstrated, starch paste, methyl cellulose, and a mix of paste and acrylic medium.
I forgot to say something about the cloth I was making at the start of the video. This piece of cloth was a cyanotype I made using an x-ray of my hand. It was done on thin white cotton. The cotton is not completely opaque so I wanted a white backing on it. It was also very light so I figured backing it with paper had two benefits. But I also wanted a protective coating on the surface, so I then coated it in a 50/50 mix of paste and acrylic medium.
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DAS Bookbinding UA-cam Channel guide
dasbookbinding.com/2019/12/14...
00:00 Making Bookcloth; Filling with Media
02:50 Filling with starch paste
03:55 Filling with methyl cellulose
05:05 Filling with a mix of paste and acrylic medium
07:45 Hot foil test results
08:30 Shameless Patreon plug
Liquitex fabric medium
www.liquitex.com/row/products...
Methyl Cellulose
www.talasonline.com/Methyl-Ce...
ratchford.co.uk/product/powde...
Related videos
Making Bookcloth; Backing Fabric with Paper
• DIY Bookcloth; Backing...
How to Make Methyl Cellulose Adhesive for Bookbinding
• How to Make Methyl Cel...
Making Starch Paste for Bookbinding
• Making Starch Paste fo...
Martha Cole's Standards of Excellence video
vimeo.com/ondemand/08gbw4/294...
Bookcloth 1823 - 1980 by William Tomlinson and Richard Masters 1996
Bookcloth in England and America 1823 - 50 by Andrea Krupp 2008
The tools and materials I use can be purchased from specialist suppliers and manufacturers in my suppliers list. If you are in Australia I have a limited range of items I supply by mail or by pickup from the bindery in Brisbane.
dasbookbinding.com/shop/
dasbookbinding.com/2020/03/27...
The #DASBookbinding Channel is the perfect starting point for learning #bookbinding. It covers foundation skills, simple projects, technical methods, materials and more advanced bookbinding projects. The videos are presented in a tutorial or lesson fashion, which I hope are easy to follow. The knowledge presented is based on traditional techniques which can be used to create traditional books or as a foundation to quality journalling or creative artists' books. The best way to find what you are looking for is the DAS Bookbinding UA-cam Channel guide.
dasbookbinding.com/2019/12/14...
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English Closed Caption titles by Carrie Snyder. Thank you!!
The music used in this video is performed by Jon Sayles. Jon has some great classical guitar music on his website, which he shares freely. - Навчання та стиль
It's refreshing in a world of instant "Here's how to do it!!!" to see someone say "After 2 years of experimenting, here are some more ~possible~ ways." Great video set, as always.
I kept expecting to understand this, and it never happened. Never worked the way I expected. So had to go with what I had:) Ciao, Darryn
I don't know if it was all around the world, but here in Poland we used a diluted strach paste to impregnate net curtains, tablecloth, bedclothes, etc. Mainly against dirt. So it's good not only for bookcloth ;)
It's hard to find proper bookcloth where I live, so this kind of videos are gold for me. Thank you!
Etsy ,has remnants for the individual book sizes vary. as do colors
I know the feeling. Not "difficult" if you want to buy a lot. Nowhere to browse.
Thank you so much for your thorough investigation and explanation! I'm sure my next project will have much nicer bookcloth than my past ones thanks to this video.
I recommend filling with natural shellac. It's water and stain resistant, stabilizes cloth and seems to increase durability, and accepts all sorts of adhesives, inks, etc. Alcohol based will soak in for a low-luster, fabric-like finish. Glycerol can be added in small amounts as a plasticizer. Water based will tend to build up on top (depending on the fabric) for a glossy shellac look. Either way it's also probably more sustainable than plastic, with fewer health concerns.
One thing I wonder is whether you could use the shellac in the treated cloth as an adhesive for foil. Never tried but shellac is a thermoplastic that melts at a fairly low temperature, and was formerly used as a foil adhesive in bookbinding.
Shellac is also a great option for paper and can be used to produce a paper faux leather that's perfectly satisfactory for something like a journal cover, especially if you laminate with cloth under the paper. (I think of it as artisan Pressstoff.)
Edit BTW speaking of hot adhesives, you can back cloth with paper by applying a slurry of starch in water (1 or more to 10 by mass) to the paper (damp), then ironing through the cloth (also damp). The heat of the iron cooks then sets the starch. Starch is often used this way in industry. It's much faster than using paste with less risk of strike-though paste puddles, and it seems to produce a tighter bond. Of course both cloth and paper have to be tolerant of moderate ironing, and cloth should be a sort that looks good when starched. Biggest risk is from leftover starch that escapes gelatinization, which becomes visible on dark cloth as whitish patches.
Thanks for sharing. Very interesting. I'll certainly look into it once things have settled down.
Shellac based glaire is very common in gold finishing. It is more stable than egg white based glaire and it is what I mostly use. There is a trick popularised by the Brockman's of touching up gold finishing by lightly brushing powdered shellac over tooling to be retooled. It avoids any chance of staining with wet glaire areas that won't get recovered.
That process for backing cloth sounds great. I'm not a fan of the heat'n bond type materials.
For the faux leather, would you add glycerol to make it easier to work? How many coats of the shellac do you use on paper? I imagine the density of the paper would have an impact on the final product. Do you have a favourite paper?
If I ever use this I'd like to credit you. Who should I give credit to?
@@DASBookbinding For the faux leather, a traditional rag paper around 100 gsm would probably be best, but we've never had anything in a desirable color. Ingres from Canson and Fabriano are part rag but seem to be Fourdrinier and have the wrong texture. We've had success using mould-made Ingres from Hahnemuehle and Zerkall and also Hmuehle's Bugra. Their black Ingres has a fine pebbly texture on the wove side that's vaguely leather-like and lovely on journals, and the same in camel with fiber inclusions gives a warm look, especially versatile when the color deepens slightly from shellac. The Hmuehle papers also have the advantage of being gelatin-free and vegan-friendly (though that goes with the shellac).
We've had success using one or two layers of Ingres or one layer of Bugra over lightweight, tightly woven cloth. First we laminate with plenty of paste (no buffer for fear of staining) and all the pressure our nipping press can supply. In that step it's easy to add more texture. Where we live garlic and onions are packaged in fine plastic netting which can impart a grain-like appearance. I have added PVA to the paste most times - I'm not sure it makes much difference in the end and I worry about the alcohol moving it around, but of course both the paste and eventually the shellac will succumb if the book spends the night in a puddle. Perhaps with PVA it might last an hour longer.
Shellac is applied once the lamination is fully dry. Alcohol based can be prepared more quickly, penetrates better, and dries faster apparently without risking the starch bond. It should be thin for even application - I only ever mix up 2 lb cut but we've thinned it probably to less than half that for this purpose. And probably at most 1:10 glycerol to ethanol in the end (plasticizer and old French polish cheat). It can be painted or padded on, stokes disappear. It soaks in deep and once it's dry you have something vaguely like tough, dry leather. One coat is usually enough for the aesthetic. The more you apply, the more you'll see the luster of shellac, same if you size heavily with starch paste before the shellac. You can fill after the shellac by painting on starch paste or applying a paste wax (being careful not to let it soak through to the cloth side). With wax and some buffing it starts to look convincing.
Even without wax it's an impressive material. Recently we attempted to form it on cords, soaking with paste and constantly painting the surface with more paste so as to soften it. As the paste dried, any whitish residue simply wiped off with a damp rag, as with leather. It was a battle, though the paper was never at risk - I credit Hmuehle partly, their Ingres is exceptionally tough in all directions. In the end we actually managed. It looked like black calf with very understated grain and it was adequately flexible. Unfortunately it dried so tight the case couldn't nearly close.
I've been told it's not unusual for people to misidentify recent antiques as full grain leather though they're Pressstoff, to the point where buyers are advised to look for signs like delamination, unconvincing edges, etc. In contrast to fabric-backed "pleather", often both grain and flesh side were imitated, and thanks to paper/pulp's structural similarity to leather, even wear patterns are fairly similar. I have a German biography of Bismarck from 1926 that's cheaply bound in some sort of Pressstoff, probably laminations of paper with pigment and looks like nitrocellulose on top, nicely stamped with a tight grain pattern. Although it's worn it still looks good, feels tough, and could fool the inexperienced.
I wouldn't test it or our own work against library buckram, but I do see hope for a leathery alternative to cloth that's just as durable, cheap, able to be made in studio, and not nearly as destructive as plastics or leathers.
Very cool to mention the Liquitex fabric medium, that does make sense to mix with paste as a filler.
I know you tend to prefer solid colors but i just adore all these patterned clothes. Seeing the kangeroo book and the mermaid book at the end i squealed. So pretty! That cloth at the beginning that looked like an xray was so unique too. I always leaned towards paper over cloth since it's easy to find papers with cool designs and most bookcloth online seems to be solid colors. This definitely opens up more possibilities.
The x-ray cloth is an x-ray. It's an x-ray of my hand that I transferred to cloth using cyanotype. The kangaroo cloth is actually a Christmas cloth as it has Christmas trees in it. But they had sold out of the red:( There are some really interestingly patterned Japanese bookcloth. All the best, Darryn
@@DASBookbindingThe cyanotype is really cool! The one you made with fish skin reminds me of a book from the vaults of the Royal Society about cyanotype I saw on Brady Haran’s channel Objectivity. But I’m probably getting it mixed up with the book they published on fish, that almost stopped the publication of Newton’s Philosophiae Naturalis Principia Mathematica, when they wasted all the society’s money on that fish book. 😂
DIY book cloth? I could cry. I’ve had a project in mind for years! that needs a variety of colors of book cloth but only a small amount of each *and* the colors have to coordinate with another part of the books. I could only find book cloth in primary colors on bookbinding supply websites. I didn’t think it was possible to use regular cloth due to fraying. Thank you for this.
You are the best teacher in bookbinding techniques! I learn everytime I watch your videos! I am very thankful for your classes and the bibliography you share!
Your videos helped me out when making a trading card book with those loose trading card 9 pocket pages. One fabric I wouldn't recommend is faux fabric because it doesn't hold to the glue after wet pasting the glue. It took a full case of 24 cans of soda to set the shape after a hour. I had other problems with it.
Thanks for information Amigo colleague .. From Guadalajara Jalisco México.
Very interesting methods with the different paste combinations for book cloth.
Thank you very much for sharing with the results of your try-out for many years. Really helpful and insipriing!
Just tried the 50/50 acrylic medium and rice paste. I couldn't find wheat starch or rice starch, only corn starch and I'm not sure how that would work. So I made some rice starch from actual rice. Took a bit of time but it worked. And tried it on a bit of calico I picked up from local hobby store. Looks great! Gotta actually try it out on a book. I might back it with paper like you did the x-ray cloth.
The one issue I have is the poly I used, I bought as a drop cloth. So the folds in the plastic stayed and the back isn't perfectly shinny smooth. Not sure if this actually matters. But I'm gonna try and use some heat to ease those folds out.
Big life saver this video lol
Thank you for this film.
I have made book cloth with Paste but with Japanese paper in the past. I will try more methods now. Thank you once again.
Another great video, Darryn! Well done, my friend. Thank you.
Thanks! Darryn
Thanks a lot dear sir for your videos! I enjoy it. I really like as well that you include and teach us a history of bookbinding in your videos!
I'm excited to try out this method once my greyboard gets here in the post!
Very interesting video, thank you! I was taught to make book cloth by stretching it on a frame with lots of pins, painting both sides with waterproof PVA (twice, possibly?). Then when dry, remove from frame and burnish (rub!) with the back of a spoon to get a smooth finish on the ‘good’ side. Works pretty well I think, but the whole pinning and burnishing involves a lot more effort than it looks your approach does!
Really interesting. I've experimented with PVA as a filling medium. I used just like in the video. Really didn't like the result. Very stiff and very plastic like. I might give your way a go and see what happens. I'm really curious about the burnishing. Thanks! DAS
@@DASBookbinding I was also thinking of PVA, but a mix with methyl cellulose like using the acrylic medium and paste mix. Would that likely work like that mix? I was hoping that the PVA would prevent moisture re-absorption problem of the MC, and the MC would soften the PVA's "plasticness".
@judyofthewoods Hopefully he is able to answer if you've been waiting all this time but he also could be busy or didn't see your comment...but I'd personally get a few small sample sizes of whatever type of material you're wanting to use and testing out your mixtures on small samples...that way you can spend less money to find out if a certain material type will work with the mixtures you want to test out before buying a lot of that same kind of material that you may not end up using if it doesn't work right and then having to use it for something else entirely or worse if it ends up sitting unused in your crafts room 😅😊
Thank you for your excellent videos!
2:34 Ordinary plastic bags like those are mostly polyethylene (LDPE). Perhaps the advice to use polypropylene is because it is stiffer, since LDPE usually is made soft and flexible by additives? But you fixed that with some MDF. 👍😊
I was looking at the megastore the other day at plastic (“plexi”) glass but it was only sold in huge sheets and very expensive.
Plastic "plexi" glass scratches really easy. For smaller jobs I have some glass shelves from Ikea. They are strong and have polished edges, so you don't cut yourself, and don't scratch easily, and are cheap.
Excellent video! I will definitely be experimenting with this. A thought about work surfaces:
Although it might be hard to find one large enough for multiple in sheets at a time, I bet a smooth polyethylene cutting board (the cheap white kind) might be a good work surface. PE is extremely adhesive-resistant and should release easily.
Thanks! I have looked into this. The cutting boards are nearly always textured and large ones have to come from commercial kitchen suppliers. The silicone pastry mats work really well too, but if your spouse finds out what you're using her pastry mat for, it's big trouble. Guess how I know. All the best, Darryn
Looking forward to your next video!
Ingenious! Good video
Hi Darryn, I have used the acrylic fabric medium + paste mix to great success. It is very water and stain resistant and accepts foil nicely. I have just laid down some cloth to dry but this time I'm trying a regular acrylic matte medium, as in not fabric specific. The reason being that I'm only able to find the fabric variety in small, expensive amounts. It would be much more cost effective if the regular medium works as well. I'll update with my results. I'll add that I've found freezer paper to be a great backing for this type of project, as you can roll out as much as you need and tape it to your table.
While I'm here, thank you for the excellent tutorials, I am absolutely loving my own adventures in bookbinding and your channel is immeasurably helpful.
Yep, I've tried many types of acrylic medium and they mostly worked. But I do prefer the textile one and luckily I can get it for not much more than normal medium. Thanks for the tip on freezer paper. That makes sense since it is silicone coated. All the best, Darryn
@@DASBookbinding "Mostly worked" is a fair assessment. The fabric medium yields a far higher quality cloth. The matte medium came out flimsy and an odd texture, plus it shows brush lines. For anyone who might read this, go with the fabric specific medium. That said, I'll continue to experiment!
Cheers!
Thank you for this video. I often find fabric I think would be great for book covers.
Beautiful! Thank you
Thank you too! Darryn
Thank you for your work.
My pleasure! DAS
An excellent and informative video, with interludes of pleasing music. I have been experimenting for a while as I can buy material reasonably locally but not bookcloth. You have given me more avenues to explore. I had found the acrylic medium but not used it in a mix - very interesting results.
I intend to try a flexible varnish.
Best of luck! DAS
Genius 😊
This was a very useful video. I've made my own book cloths in the past by putting a paper backing on them, without much success. I will try the paste and medium approach and see how that works as I often like to bind books with odds and ends of cloth that I find around the place.
Good luck! If you use a different brand let me know how it goes. I tried opalescent medium for a couple of clothes and it was interesting. If you get it on your finger nails they look like road reflects for weeks! DAS
Fantastic and thanks so very much... very exciting. Bookcloth is often as expensive as my source for goat leather. I must try paste + the budget acrylic medium attained from filtering the glitter out of glitter paint. I'm also interested in the DIY acrylic pellets where you BYO solvent.
I've experimented with opalescent acrylic when I was trying to replicate the look of opal. Didn't really work but maybe I didn't try hard enough. Leave the modern synthetic manufacturing to the professionals. There's a lot more to it than mixing 2 components together. Anything you make at home will be inferior to the commercially made product. But have fun with the bookcloth! DAS
Here in the US, some heavy-weight large trash bags work well as a resist for two-part epoxy resin (some artists make resin paper), so perhaps it would also work for bookbinding. 🧐
This is a video I’ve been waiting for! Thank you for doing so many experiments, so that we less science minded can follow in your footsteps.
I assume the very shiny reverse side of the cloth, where it dries against the plastic, does not resist the paste or PVA a needed to adhere it to the cover boards?
I wonder if a silicone baking mat would be a surface one could try to paste it onto, instead of the plastic sheet. SA Post doesn’t give me thick plastic bags!
I should have said something about that. The shiny side does take PVA and mix very well. At some point I have some B roll of me covering a board for the foil test and you can see the adhesive spreads well on it. You know how I use my spouses expensive Thermomix to make paste and how she hates me doing this. Well she has a big expensive Thermomix silicone pastry mat. It works really well!! But if you really want to annoy your spouse, I've found a way. All the best, DAS
@@DASBookbinding haha i can just imagine her face. I have 2 of those silicone baking mats ..hmmm maybe one should be commandeered for crafting.
You can easily buy silicone sheets for baking/crafts online, absolutely nothing sticks to those.
And after watching the first video, I had an idea for a sort of hybrid method: sizing the fabric with watered down paste or PVA glue (or acrylic medium, like you used here), then applying a backing paper to that. Sizing should stop the adhesive from coming through to the front so you shouldn’t need to be so careful when applying the glue.
I have lots of ideas that "should" work. The best bet is to try them out. Lots of my should ideas don't go as planned.
Love the videos, incredibly informative and have set me on the path of book making. This may be a silly question, so I apologise if it is, but I was just wondering if the starch based paste would be similar to clag glue? Thank you again.
I think Clag is starch based. It is in the same adhesive category as paste. But it has preservatives and other additives. For non-forever work it's probably fine as a paste adhesive. But I wouldn't use it. DAS
I want to keep my questions to a minimum, Prof. S, but wanted to ask if the paste was your standard adhesive ratio of starch to water as opposed to, for example, the paste paper consistency? Edit: The following is just way too much unimportant commentary on my part and can be skipped: I can surely agree on the futility of designing most synthetic formulations from home, as I worked in a urethane sealer factory Seal n Lock, and they required a chemist and a full lab. The only thing I had in mind with the solid acrylic resin pellets was that Paraloid B-72 that just requires solvent to desired consistency. I already have some around, for use with fossils and stabilizing minerals for lapidary, and noticed book conservators also using it both by itself and with waxes. I thought I might try some in ethanol so it would mix with the water in wheat paste, for fun, and compare it to clear acrylic medium w/paste. I thought, if it worked, it would cost less than premium acrylic paint medium (not to mention having a kilo). You're so well read on book cloth... I swear I saw somewhere clay had been added, sometimes. I've also got a clay replacement in the form of ceramic powder. With as much testing as I've done to formulate my own flute coatings and other things, I can't help myself but to transplant this urge to this hobby, and plan rogue things along the way as I practice the tried and true. But nothing that might off-gas, bleed, leech etc... right now I'm largely reading and absorbing as I tinker with book basics and-- Edit: my first paste (water 4:1) and Golden Acrylic Medium is drying this hour! Actually, being spare stuff of the wife's, it was Golden's thin acrylic Glazing medium and their Gel mixed to regular, medium consistency, then mixed 40% with 60% wheat starch paste... (fingers crossed). Channel DAS draws from so much wonderful experience and sources, in addition to being so inclusive of details commonly left out elsewhere, it's such an asset to so many. Thanks for the Martha Cole reference, here, too!😁
It's the adhesive ratio of about 1:4 or 1:5. I get it. I love experimenting too. If you've got the materials, worth a try. But I have had many people sure that making their own PVA is the way to go. Not sure about the ceramic powder. But if you look at the work of people like Martha Cole they use all sorts of interesting materials to get interesting results. I'm more a craftsman than an artist. So don't let my limitation be your limitations! Happy binding!
This is so exciting! I am something of a fabric hoarder and I've always wanted to make my own books. Finally managed to get the fabric acrylic medium that you recommend and i should get cracking one day. Thank you for your clear, well paced videos with soothing music, and do stay safe! Edited to add: Is it ok to use the acrylic medium alone without starch? How long can the homemade starch be kept? I bought a bag of of Japanese starch glue (made of wheat starch and processed tapioca starch) from my local Daiso, can i use that instead?
I've tried the medium by itself and it works but I didn't;t find the texture as pleasing. Yes, the Japanese wheat starch will work. It will last ages dry but once mixed up will last maybe a week. I keep mine in the fridge. You'll know once it's gone off:) Have fun! DAS
@@DASBookbinding Fantastic! Thanks so much for taking the trouble to reply!
Have you tried using just spray-on acrylic on both sides? Or mix acrylic medium with diluted PVA white glue instead of paste? Another idea I have in mind is to use acrylic paints in the paste mix for some interesting effects. Also, spray-on varnish or lacquer might also work and will give a waterproof surface and add an interesting gloss.
I have done some experimenting with PVA and found the resulting cloth to be very stiff and the texture not near as pleasing. I have had some people tell me about their experience with PVA so I will keep experimenting. I really don't like spray on anythings - having to put on a mask, drift getting over everything. So I try and avoid spray on. The long term stability of varnishes would be a concern. Most of the Martha Cole video is about decorative techniques using acrylic paints added to the mix. Paste paper but for fabric. I've been experimenting with this a lot and once I have enough nice examples this will be in the third bookcloth video. Thanks for your ideas! All the best, Darryn
I immediately ordered some acrylic fabric medium after watching this! What's the drying time like on the paste/medium mix?
I always leave it dry over night. Even if I make it late in the day it is dry the next day. Have fun! DAS
All your videos are extremely informative so may thanks for them. I have what is possibly a silly question but once the fabric has treated and dried does one use PVA glue to glue it to the cover or box or whatever. Thanks
Yes, PVA is the main adhesive I use with cloth. I'll sometimes use a PVA methyl cellulose mix if there is a chance I may need to reposition the cloth. PVA tacks so fast it is usually a one shot deal. The mix gives a bit of open time for repositioning. Ciao, Darryn
Thank you for these videos on bookcloth. Making bookcloth has been my biggest question. Have you experimented with embossing the cloth (texture)? I really want to know how to do that.
I had this idea that if I learned enough about making bookcloth I could replicate some of the wonderful grained bookcloths of the 19th century. What I've learned is that it really requires an industrial process - etched plates and lots of pressure - to get the effect I'd like. Maybe one day. DAS
Oh man, these bookcloth videos were lifesavers. Quick question: are there certain types of fabric that won't work for bookcloth, or certain methods that work better for certain materials - like for instance, would the 50/50 acrylic starch paste work with synthetics?
You just have to try. I generally stick with natural fibres. DAS
Hi, thanks for that video. I was wondering if you have tried using fabric printing binder. It's the clear base that you add pigments to when screen printing on fabric. There is also a clear binder that is used when screen printing onto paper, this is mixed with acrylic colours so might be a bit like acrylic medium I guess.
Never heard of it. Thanks for sharing. I'll certainly look into it. Darryn
I'm not sure if you have anywhere that you take requests from but I've been interested in learning a tight backed rounded book with raised bands. I love your content and it helped me make a gift for my mother for Christmas and I am now addicted to bookmaking. Is there a possibility of you doing a tight back book?
The leather library binding is a tight-back. But I am working on a video series of a flexibly sewn tight-back now. Maybe a month away. Lots of editing to do! DAS
So you don't use both paper backing and the paste/medium mix, right? You either back it with paper OR use the paste/medium mix? Sometimes I make books with naked boards that have a watercolor painting glued to the front and I put gel medium on those to protect them. I want to do more fabric book covers but I like the idea of having the medium on them since I use the books for ink and watercolor work and they can get messy.
You could I guess. But if you impregnate the cloth with the paste/medium mix you don't need the paper backing. But maybe you have a thin cloth that needs the paper backing to make it stable enough to apply the outer coating? I could imagine that.
Exactly what I have been looking for. I want to make book cloth that will stand up to a bit of wear…..let me ask you this…I am interested in using prints of my artwork on paper or maybe in some cases original artwork on watercolor paper. Do you have any experience or suggestions on what I should use or if I can even make some kind of covering that will have protection?
Thanks in advance. I know you are busy and I appreciate any direction or guidance you may have
You can cover with paper, it just won't have the same durability. I'm not sure about making the paper more durable. One idea might be to scan you art and print it on commercial bookcloth. I find the very durable Arbelave bookcloth feeds well through my inkjet printer and prints well. Good luck! DAS
Thanks for this great lesson in making book cloth. I have done a cotton test piece, and it worked well. I have a question: - What do you think about using Polyester material? I have a number of old trousers. It seems a shame, not to make some use of all that material.
Why not. Go for it. Not much to loose except your pants.
True😄
They make permanent fabric stiffener as a product, I'm gonna experiment with some. :)
This will be spray on starch. Good luck. DAS
@@DASBookbinding nah it's different to starch, this is one that doesn't wash out, it's a permanent stiffener. 😊
Hello, Darryn. Thank you very much! I've learnt tons and tons from watching your videos. You know, I barely speak English, but I do understand most of your explanations. I'd missed the second thing mixed with starch on the third experiment. I repeat and repeat the video, but can not catch de right Word. Could you please tell me what else you mixed with starch?
Thank you un advance!
Greetings from México
Fabric acrylic medium for mixed media
Thanks for watching my videos. In English it is called acrylic medium, or acrylic polymer. I like the Liquitex fabric medium
www.liquitex.com/row/products/professional/gessoes-mediums-varnishes/fabric-medium/
All the best,
Darryn
Thanks for great videos. is it possible to use just pva?
I wonder this too and tried. Not a very good result. Very stiff and feels just like plastic taking away the surface texture of the cloth. DAS
Have you ever tried filling with beeswax? Maybe an acrylic backing on one side and then iron beeswax into the other?
I'm running a bunch of experiment swatches right now and I'm trying to find something that's water and dust-resistant.
No. I would imagine the cloth would hold too much wax and it would be soft. Maybe there is way to put a very thin surface coating of wax on like I use for paste papers?
@@DASBookbinding I've been experimenting for the last month or so and I have had some success with filling the cloth with acrylic+paste and then coating a sheet of parchment with a thin layer of wax. Then you can iron the wax sheet onto the fabric.
I'm not 100% satisfied with how the finish looks, but it IS water-resistant and it doesn't seem to make the glue less effective. I feel like it's possible, but it's not easy.
I've thought of trying wax too, to make a cloth that looks a bit like the early 20th century embossed encyclopaedia book covers. Instead of using heat to apply, I'm thinking making a paste with turpentine (still using heat to dissolve) and using a mix of bees wax and the much harder carnauba wax with higher melting point so it won't get tacky in warm weather or from warm hands, applied to a very fine, dense cotton fabric.
curious what differentiates the paper backed cloth vs media filled in how it accepts gold foil?
I've tried and the foil does;t like sticking to the bare cloth. Maybe a different foil would work? DAS
What is the benefit of mixing paste with acrylic medium? Any reason straight medium would not work?
You can use it. It is very thick and feel like plastic and is rather expensive.
@@DASBookbinding thank you for the reply. I paint with oils and acrylics so I have some about. Really enjoy your content, great stuff. Cheers
could you use fabric mod podge mixed with fabric medium instead of the paste-medium combo?
I wouldn't, but that doesn't mean you can't. Give it a go. DAS
I’ve been experimenting for a few weeks with natural dyes (red onion skins and black beans are my favourites so far 😊) and backing the dyed cloth with paper using starch paste. I thought I might start experimenting with what you do in this video next.
When you use acrylic+paste, is there a reason you use starch paste rather than methylcellulose? Did your previous experiments tell you that was the best mixture to use?
And how are your experiments going with the filling with coloured paste? 🤔😊
I haven't had time to do any paste papers is ages. It is high on my list of things I need to do.
I don't like the shiny result from MC. Some people do. I don't think there is a "best" mix. They all give different results and it depends if you like the result. I like a bit of texture but not much. Some people like a lot, and some none. I like how the acrylic provides some robustness and water protection.
@@DASBookbinding I tried the filling with coloured starch style experiment just a few days ago. It has potential! 😄 I used potato starch and cheap acrylic paint from the cheap bin at the store (no need to buy expensive colourless acrylic medium if the starch is to be coloured 😊). I might have slathered on a bit much since there were brush-strokes still visible after it dried, but in all it is well on the way of becoming useable after just one experiment.
Perhaps I’d like the methylcellulose kind? It probably would remind me of the buckram of the library books of my childhood and youth. 😊
After having done that I hade some coloured starch left so I also did my first proper experiment with paste paper. Just two pairs of pulled papers, but that has even more potential. 😃✌️
When using this method of making book cloth, and the plastic layer stays on the back, can that be glued directly to book board, or does it have to have a paper backing added?
No paper backing required.
How about backing the fabric with paper as in your previous video and then using one or more coats of spray varnish or other finishing sprays for waterproofing the front?
I don't like using spray anything. It's so messy. You have to go outside and even then I usually find the hair on my arms get a slight mist of something on them and stick together. Yuk. Plus, I'm not sure I want to trust an unknown varnish in the long term (decades). I'm going to stay with a quality acrylic which has a good track record. But I'm not against you using it, and it should do the job. Not much to loose if you want to use it. Good luck! DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thanks for your reply. Yes, I have varnished my arms in the past too. Do you have an opinion on using Nori paste as a substitute for wheat or starch paste? And thanks for a great series of videos - what I would expect from a physicist/engineer.
@@saxhorn1508 I don't use Nori paste. I know it is widely used in the bookbinding community, so it is hard to say anything against it. I don't know anyone that uses it for traditional leather binding. Since I have paste on hand for this reason almost all the time I just don't need it. It's starch based so must have preservatives in it. It's been so widely used for so long these preservatives must not yellow with age, or someone would have said something by now. So, yes. Ciao, DAS
Wait. So I apologize, I'm a little confused. At the end you said that the past did NOT take the foil. But right after, you said if you need to use the foil, you suggest using the past median? And the only link in the description is to the past mix that you make to glue things together.
Is that video the type of mix you use to be able to use the gold foil embossing?
The best result I found at the time was acrylic medium paste mix (I think it was like 1 part medium and 2 parts paste). The paste I used is my standard wheat starch paste made with a 5:1 ratio with water. It's not that special. You could use wheat flour paste and adjust thickness with water. Best bet is to experiment and see what works for you. Good luck! DAS
What’s the reasoning behind mixing the acrylic medium with paste? Could methyl cellulose be substituted? Can acrylic medium be used on its own?
It produces a nice texture and surface finish. Yes, people use MC instead of paste, or even all three. And yes you can use the medium on its own but I found it didn't have a lot of body. Something that I have found works well for me is to make the cloth as per mix of medium and paste and once it is dry give the outside a final coat of medium.
@@DASBookbinding You’re the man! Excited to start tinkering with adding acrylic medium to the MC I use now.
I guess 1:1 starch:PVA would make the cloth too stiff?
Give it a go. I've tried experiments with PVA and different mixes and haven't found anything I like and would use. But I feel like it should be possible. Let me know if you work it out. DAS
It's possible to mix two methods in same fabric ? ex. In linen cloth backing with paper and in front with acrylic mix to accept the hot foil ?
Paper usually accepts hot foil by itself. If the paper is too thin to use as covering material, I'd back it with more paper rather than cloth. Good luck. DAS
@@DASBookbinding I would also like to suggest you make a video about foils and how we can impress to fabric and leather titles, either with a manual typeholder or with a blocking machine. I try impression with my hand typeholder in bookcloth and not all letters are impressed in full but broken.And last where could i find a vintage blocking press ? Thank you.
@@vaidoo I wouldn't use a hand type holder for cloth. I know you don't have a blocking press, but I don't think you can get enough pressure with a hand chase to work on cloth. I'd be thinking of some sort of mechanical system to help apply pressure. Used blocking presses are hard to come by. The ones that don't work very well tend to do the rounds of the market. I've made do with a few of these presses and upgraded whenever I had the chance. It took me a long time to find one I was happy with. Good luck! DAS
@@DASBookbindingWhat is the difference from the leather? Because same broken result i also had it with the leather.To buy a new blocking press, which brands are considered to be of better quality? Thank you
Dumb question perhaps but why not use the acrylic medium alone ?
Great questions that I've been waiting for! I experimented with this. The medium by itself doesn't have as much body to it as I expected. It failed to fill the weaves in the cloth very well and adhesive struck through in my couple of test pieces. My instinct was that the main reason was to make the medium go further as it is expensive. But it seems it is important to add body. So the result wasn't what I expected and I don't understand it, thus why I didn't mention it. But I was prepared:) I'll do a third video on bookcloth one day and if I understand this then I'll mention it. Thanks for asking! DAS
@@DASBookbinding I have been using PVA and water 50/50, applying it to one side of cotton fabric with a silicone "brush . The liquid moves through to the back or underside of the fabric giving me a soft fabric feel on top. This cloth is used in art journal that are for personal use . I have also used acrylic fluid mediums successfully but PVA is less costly .
Thank you for this video, I plan to make good use of these instructions one question...... when you cut the dry fabric off of the backing board the plastic film was adhered to the cloth, did you peel that film off of the cloth at some point before you used the cloth?
When filling the material and letting it dry on the plastic I peel the dry cloth off the plastic. It doesn't get cut out like the paper backed version. I reuse the plastic many times. DAS
@@DASBookbinding oh I see. The back of the fabric is shined because of the smooth surface of the plastic. Thanks for responding 👍
Who has this type of impressioning in or near Rhode Island USA ? if you know.?
Sorry, don't understand the question. Yours, DAS
@@DASBookbinding Sorry you may know it as gold inlay
@@bigjarn are you asking about services for hot foil stamping (the gold lettering?). You may search for a local bindery or even leather artisans who have hot foil stamping machines. Hope this helps.
plz. photo album
What type? I'm not big on photo albums but I am thinking of doing a post bound one later in the year. Yours, Darryn