Paperback to Hardcover Keeping Original Covers Part 1 // Adventures in Bookbinding
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- Опубліковано 4 лип 2024
- This video demonstrates one way to convert a paperback novel into a hardcover book using the original covers on the new book. I recommend this is only done to modern machines bound books of no monetary or historical value. The book I use has a fundamentally sound Perfect (heat activated adhesive) binding. I do not muck with this. If you have a book that is falling apart then the book needs to be completely pulled to single sheets, the spine edges cleaned, and the text block rebound using the double-fan (aka Lumbeck) method.
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DAS Bookbinding UA-cam Channel guide
dasbookbinding.com/2019/12/14...
00:00 Paperback to Hardcover Keeping Original Covers
01:40 Edge cleaning
03:13 Tipping on first and last leaves
04:00 Removing origin covers
05:00 Removing spine
07:10 Endpapers
09:20 Spine lining
12:00 Backing original spine
12:56 Shameless Patreon plug
The tools and materials I use can be purchased from specialist suppliers and manufacturers in my suppliers list. If you are in Australia I have a limited range of items I supply by mail or by pickup from the bindery in Brisbane.
dasbookbinding.com/shop/
dasbookbinding.com/2020/03/27...
The #DASBookbinding Channel is the perfect starting point for learning #bookbinding. It covers foundation skills, simple projects, technical methods, materials and more advanced bookbinding projects. The videos are presented in a tutorial or lesson fashion, which I hope are easy to follow. The knowledge presented is based on traditional techniques which can be used to create traditional books or as a foundation to quality journalling or creative artists' books. The best way to find what you are looking for is the DAS Bookbinding UA-cam Channel guide.
dasbookbinding.com/2019/12/14...
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English Closed Caption titles by Carrie Snyder. Thank you!!
The music used in this video is performed by Jon Sayles. Jon has some great classical guitar music on his website, which he shares freely. - Навчання та стиль
Taking something ugly and transforming it into something beautiful is the highest form of art. Good on you.
Paperbacks are not ugly! 😭
@@ollietaro No, but THAT ONE needed some love.
That's inspiring to go and rescue some old paperbacks I haven't re-read in a long while because they turned into "fasicles"
thank you for your work on popularizing bookbinding
I have a handful of old pulp paperbacks like this one that I haven't read in years to preserve their binding. I might have to experiment with this technique on some less precious volumes then fix some of my old favourites.
Fantastic idea. I'd love to try this. It's like upgrading a paperback.
thanks for your clear, concise verbal and visible vlog. Easy to follow and made me feel like I could do this. Look forward to part 2. thanks
This is fascinating! I have quite a few 60s-70s perfect-bound books that are falling completely apart, and I hope could be repaired in this fashion.
Yes, just pull them completely apart, clean off the spine edge of the pages, double-fan them back together and then follow this video. Good luck! DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thanks! I'm exited for the next section of the video!
@@DASBookbinding Just watching your video on the double-fan binding now. I'm just hoping my hands are steady enough to do this without making a glue-coated mess of it. :)
I love your method of teaching. I learn so much!❤️
Thank you so much! DAS
This is exactly what I need for some gift ideas. Thank you!
I have a few paperback books from my childhood with gorgeous cover illustrations that were never released in a hardcover edition, unfortunately I have a bad habit of fidgeting while I read and I tend to absentmindedly tear up paperback copies. This tutorial is a godsend, thank you so much for sharing!
Your videos are so accessible, I really appreciate you making them.
thank you so much for this video! I have a friend of mine whose books have been thoroughly mangled and I wanted to fix them for her as a birthday present!
Wow, I’ve been looking for this kind of video for a while! I got into bookbinding last summer, and I really want to maximize my skills. I have a copy of the first Harry Potter book from the early 2000s that I’ve read many times over the years. Unfortunately, due to that, the covers are falling off (12 year old me was desperate enough to scotch tape them). But with your guide I think I can finally case it and make sure it can be read for years to come. Wonderful work! I’m looking forward to your next video.
Good luck getting the tape off! All the best, Darryn
Wow… I’ve literally been looking for how to do this for years and it just popped up on my recommendations today! Can’t wait to try this on all my paperback reference books! They’re quite worn and I would love to make them last a lot longer!
This was super interesting. I can't wait to see the next part. I have some old romance paperbacks from the 70's, that i love. I've really wanted to try giving hardcovers since they are so beat up.
What patience and Skill! Beautiful outcome and good filming too! Thank you :)
It’s always a treat to see another video from you. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and taking the time and effort to post your videos!
My pleasure! Darryn
Thank you for yet another excellent tutorial :) And a very practical too.
You videos are perfect for me. Every step in the process is clearly explained, with just enough detail to understand, but not overwhelming nor repetitive. This way every tutorial is self-contained, just as I like it. Thank you for sharing :)
I'm very new to all of this, but I'm so excited watching your video!
Outstanding idea. So practical. Thank you for doing this.
This is amazing! Thanks for sharing 😊
Great work as always - yes very useful
Amazing craft! Thanks!
I just recently ran across your channel and I'm enjoying all of your videos! I was making my own books for a while until I made a few too many and didn't know what to do with them . . . ahaha!
This is exactly what I'm getting a local bookbinder to do. It's so interesting to see what's going to happen to my paperback. I felt a twinge of remorse about giving it up for "surgery" haha. But I guess it's more like when you take something broken or "inferior" and make it better than it was, like a facelift. I wonder if adding headbands would be too much since the margins on a paperback are likely too small. Also, would you recommend using a heat source to melt the glue in the spine a little bit to make slicing the spine off a little easier?
You could add headbands fine, there is a large enough square. I just didn't think they looked right on this book. I meant to mention headbands in the video. I wouldn't soften the glue as it might compromise the original binding strength. It is easier and safer to split the card/paper with a very sharp knife. If I was pulling the book apart I use a heat gun, but a hair dryer will work. All the best, DAS
You're sooo inspiring thank you for the videos! Adorei o capricho do acabamento e o cuidado! ❤
Excellent video
Thanks for another excellent video! About your intention to not over-strengthen the old hot melt spine, to keep it in balance with the weakened paper of the book . . . I recently watched a conservator's work on a 130 year-old family bible, and she expressed the same sensibility for that project. It may be hard to formulate a strict rule about this, but I daresay it's a very important principle for the rebinder/rehabilitator to keep in mind!
Those carbon steel knives are indeed "very sharp", and it was gratifying to see one used in expertly slicing through the thickness of the paper spine! Sometimes that part is so much worse than the rest of the cover a photocopy is a better option (if suitable paper stock is available). In between are covers that can benefit from a reinforcing layer of transparent archival paper tape. (A handy but pricey product -- practical for anyone planning a lot of this kind of project.)
What I was doing was a bit different to paper conservators. The balance between the work that is put on the spine and the paper should be a consider for all books. In regards to paper repair, there is a hard rule, the repair paper should never be heavier than the original paper. The repair paper should always fail first. DAS
Amazing!
This is a great transformation for a paperback that may not have been available as a hardback, value aside.
Congratulations 👏👏😄😍😍 fantastic 👏👏😄😍
thanks and regards amigo from Guadalajara México collegue
Great video, as usual. Love your videos!
I have a paperback, but the spine is 'broken' in the middle where there is a few pages of photographs. Is it still possible to use the method in this video?
That looks so much better than the one i made.
I wonder if you could use a hot air gun on the spine to soften the hot melt glue to separate the cover from the text block?
Also, I can't help but think that a card scraper, of the type used in woodworking, might be useful for getting the extra glue and excess paper off the spine? Or would that be too aggressive?
Yes, I think too aggressive. You don't want to take any glue off. It just takes a few minutes with the knife. Ciao, Darryn
Very interesting and I can't wait for the second part 👍
Have you got any plans to do a video on Double Fan Binding? I'm considering a project where it may be the only option (that I know of at present).
See in the description for a link to my double-fan binding video. DAS
@@DASBookbinding Oh boy - do I feel like an idiot or what! I was so eager to watch the video I didn't really read the description. Add to that the title of that video even has 'Double Fan' in it and I'm doubly embarassed 🤣
I'm a beginner bookbinder, I did this for a friend few months ago. Here in Peru is complicated get bookbinding materials and tools. But I try to do my best with what I have. Greetings from Peru.
Wonderful to hear from Peru. Sorry about your difficulty with materials. All the best and happy binding! Darryn
@@DASBookbinding thanks man, twice months ago, I made a Necronomicon, with aged pages and leather cover, all with self made press and loom. That was tough, but at the end, it looked awesome. Here I can get bookbinding cloth from netherland, but it's expensive.
Can you use your repairing a perfect bound book technique is reverse to remove to cover? I trying to hardback a set of perfect bounds and wondered if that would help me preserve as much of the cover as possible. also first time so have little skill and faith that i could just cut it off with out damaging it.
hi Darryn, thanks again for an excelent video! I have a question, the paper you put in the spine lining part, does it always has to be short grain? what's the criterion? thank you!
Grain should be head to tail. Something with strong fibres is best. I use kraft paper or Japanese Washi. But a good cotton fibre paper works well too. DAS
Is there a long grain/short grain to bookcloth? I am looking at Talas Cialux because of the size of the yardage. I have 8.5" x11"x2" book of a set of 2. I would have to use the book short edge size to the horizontal size and thus four covers and the long edge of the book to the vertical size of the Cialux and thus 16 covers with two yards.
Complex question. Cloth isn't made of bonded cellulose fibre, but does have a stretch direction and people call this grain. The "grain" direction of cloth is into the roll or parallel to the selvedge. I'll answer more on email. Ciao, DAS
To keep the original cover from getting more damaged is it ok to put some kind of top coat on it like modge podge or will that damage the cover more over time?
I wouldn't, but I know people do. So I'm not going say you shouldn't. But if I was worried about this I would either make a slip case or a clam-shell box. Ciao, Darryn
Here is a small suggestion... find an old watch or a clock and leave it in the upper corner of your camera frame. That way, when you go to high speed video, we can see how much actual time you're spending on each process. Might be helpful. Thanks, BG
I tried doing this and similar things ages ago. Was more complicated than expected. A physical timer kept getting in the way and I'd have to stop it every time the door bell rang or I took a coffee break. I tried adding a virtual clock, but couldn't find a tool to do it using basic iMovie......
@@DASBookbinding Good point. Might be one of those things that sounds OK in theory, not so simple in practice. Clock or no, I love watching your videos, thanks for making them.
You mention using PVA/EVA paste...is this the same as Talas Jade R which is reversible? What is reversible? Where can we get starched calico?
The EVA I use is brand called Evasol. But Jade R is similar, maybe not exactly the same. I would stick to (ha ha) Jade 403 unless you expect someone to ask about your conservation ethics, and then EVA doesn't really cut it anyway. You could starch your own muslin otherwise I can't see anything at Talas like it. It can be bought in bulk from Winterbottoms in Australia or retail from me or Cali Andersen in Sydney. But not worth posting OS from Oz. Actually it doesn't need to be starched, just makes it easier to use. Just use muslin or a light unbleached linen. Good luck! DAS
Thank you for this tutorial! As always a great video. I have a paperback from 1969 that has fallen apart which I would like to try and repair. It's been originally bound/glued against the grain (is that common??) and is not in great shape. Do you think it would be worth trying to repair and re-bound? It has sentimental value to my family...
Yes, it's common to have the wrong grain direction in paperbacks. The manufacturer is keeping costs down by maximise the use of paper not focusing on book quality. The book I used in this video was not worth rebinding but I am sentimentally attached to it because a friend gave it to me years ago and thus why I used it. Otherwise it would go in the bin because it is a terrible read:) All the best, Darryn
@@DASBookbinding I tried to fix the book yesterday, unfortunately I couldn't do the double fan binding as the pages were so stiff and I don't have a press or anything to hold it in place while bending/fanning so it had to be perfect bound. It probably won't hold up but at least it's better than before! It was in pieces and so torn. Thank you again for all your great videos and tutorials, learning so much!
Thank you so much!! I've been looking for something like this for ages! I was wondering if you had any videos or advice on how to look after/strengthen/protect these 1970s acidic paperbacks? My grandmother had loads of them, but they're literally just disintegrating in my hands when I try to read them. Is there any way to rescue them, or is it just a case of the paper being so poor that it's impossible?
Deacidifciation is hard in the home workshop. And once the paper has lost structural integrity it can't be returned. The best you can do is slow it down with a stable environment. I'd use enclosed bookcases and maybe phase wrappers for the ones you want to keep the longest. Good luck! DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thanks 😅 I figured it was unlikely/would be difficult, but it seemed worth asking. I'll see if I can get hold of some phase wrappers - thank you!!
@@yakumorisuke9403 Look up my video on making phase boxes. DAS
I've seen that some people make some cuts on the spine and introduces a yarm before pasting the spine lining. Is it also necesary in a paperback when I want to transform it into a hardcover?🧐
Yes, this is a common historical technique that is often highly recommended on the internet by an inexperienced binder that loves to offer their opinion on everything. I almost never do it any more, and would recommend avoiding it. I'll explain why in a video one day. Just avoid for now.
@@DASBookbinding thanks, because as paperback books have individual pages instead, I was wondering if it was necesary :)
Wonderful video! Is that flat sharp knife a tool that can be sourced from a bookbinding supplier?
I think you mean my mother-in-laws old bone handled (fake) butter knife. The ones with straight sides are better than the curved ones. Also look for "Firth" steel. Despite being an early form of stainless steel it takes an edge very well - compared to modern stainless steel. I buy any I see for less than $10 at flea markets.
@@DASBookbinding Thank you!
How much does this procedure generally cost to have done professionally? I have a couple hundred reloading manuals from 1890-1930. Almost all of them are soft covers, and many are falling apart. Some are maybe 80 pages, but the larger ideal (later lyman) manuals are 250+ pages. They don't have a real high monetary value, but I enjoy flipping through them from time to time.
It would be really nice to have them bound and displayed on my book wall of my 'man-cave'. I could probably learn how to do it myself if it's prohibitively expensive...but it would take me years to get through them all.
Really can't tell you how much it would cost. Most places this job would go to the apprentice and it might be $100 or less, depending on how the labelling is done. If you came to me I would try and talk you in to keeping them in original soft covers and repairing the ones falling apart. This would be cheaper than putting them in hard covers and probably retain more value. I would also suggest having simple phase cases made for them (see my video on this) with a photocopy of the spine pasted to the spine of the phase box. This would slow the degradation of acid paper, which I bet these are made of. I'm sure you could make the phase boxes. 10pt card for making phase boxes.
www.talasonline.com/Heritage-Archival-Bristol-Board?quantity=5&thickness=14
I was wondering what you think about using a glue brush to clean the sides.
The brush I use is a big old glue brush, but it has never been used. The bristles of a used brush might be a bit stiff. All the best, Darryn
Hello. Love it. Definitely want to try this. Can’t wait for the second part. - When you say “starch paste,” do you mean methyl cellulose? And is “starched calico” different from the “super” sold by Lineco?
I don’t have any special knives yet. Do you have any alternative recommendations? Thanks for all your videos.
No, starch paste is different, but in this case MC is a fine substitute. Super has an open weave and the calico (muslin for you I think) has the weave filled with starch. You could use super but not as strong. Super tears much easier in one direction (in the warp direction) so use it with the weft going head to tail on the book. The Olfa knife I was using (with Olfa blade of course) would probably life the spine fine too. You need one good knife and for the price you can't beat the Olfa SVR-1. A scalpel would work too. But my special knife is just a sharpened old butter knife. Happy binding! DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thank you so much! I will look for the knife and buy some muslin and look for starch paste.
Gracias por el español en lo subtitulos😃
I find myself pondering (this has nothing really to do with paperbacks, but, there didn't seem to be an ideal video in your backlog to strap this to so, picking the latest) whether or not it would be possible to 3D print a proddy-block whatsit thing for embossing leather. I imagine there's a technical term for that, but, you know what I mean. I've seen you using steel and brass fonts to do this, so there could well be a materials issue with doing so, I have no idea if a printed plastic negative relief thing could stand up to the pressure needed to emboss. Of course, making a 3D build is a whole skill set that wouldn't be worth learning purely for experimentation purposes, but it's a skill set that I have already. Having a quick look I can see at least three places in Brisbane that can do an actual print, so, wondering if you might be interested in trying it out - I'd be very happy indeed to build a testing block or two. Or several, really, I mean, they're not all that hard to do.
The main advantage I could see (if it'd work at all) is you'd get access to all the fonts in the universe, in any scale and shape you can imagine, plus, it's not all that complicated to take a two tone image and convert that to a relief.
Something like the doodad linked here took me a few minutes, for example.
www.deviantart.com/colonialchrome/art/Ases-869263469
Good idea. But the hot foiling machine requires the type to be heated fairly hot. Most of the fonts these day are cut with CNC machine, so not that different to 3D printed, just taking away instead of adding. There are photo resist method used to make magnesium plates which are made from graphics files which can then be used in foiling. All the best, DAS
@@DASBookbinding Does it need to be hot to work? I was fairly sure I've seen you poppin' shapes in leather with just squeezing it. Did you not put a little neat rectangle in a boxy thing with just a bit of card and a giant squish-o-tron? UA-cam's gone a bit mental on book-binding videos last few days so it might have been one of your rivals, but I could have sworn it was narrated in Strayan...
@@Belzediel The squish-o-tron has a huge heating element in its head. Ciao, DAS
Is it possible to use mull to reinforce the spine?
Yep. I'm not sure how much of a difference it would make with this book.
I'm curious - is sewing through the pages not worth the effort, or technically not possible here? I thought that if I was having a soft binding book converted to hardcover, I'd want it to be as "tough" as possible. Or does that not actually increase durability?
Not possible. Almost all paperbacks are single sheets glued at the spine using a proprietary machine binding, similar to the hand equivalent of double-fan (aka Lumbeck) binding.
Say I have a paper back I want to make a hardcover and want the original art but don't want to cut the paperback in 3 sections just leave it solid. How you go about that . Just fold it over the spine ?
I think I understand what you mean and I'm afraid things just don't work like that. To make a durable book that will function well and last I'd do it like in the video. But I do recommend you get a paperback of no value and give your idea a go. Maybe I'm wrong and you invent a new way to bind a hardcover, or you see why it has issues. Good luck. DAS
Is there anything you can do to buffer the pH of existing paper?
Not in a home working environment. DAS
You probably said it in the videos, but I have little English. pva ok, paste ok. but what is the content of eva
Yes, PVA and EVA are interchangeable. So PVA will work fine. Paste might not work as well for the spine lining. All the best, Darryn
@@DASBookbinding a mixture of eva pva and paste ?
Than you!
Have you thought of writing a book on bookbinding?
The world does not need another bookbinding book:) Plus, videos are a step up! DAS
Why do you advise against trimming or sanding the edges of the pages?
Because bookbinders should try and avoid removing material from an existing book. There are some exceptions, but bookbinders had a terrible reputation for over trimming books being restored - removing marginalia etc. I might accept sanding if someone dropped this book in some mud maybe. But because of the paper quality it wouldn't make much of a difference. DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thank you for the detailed explanation.
if paper of book is very fragile
in such case rebinding is possible
without paper getting further damaged. !
If the paper has become fragile I would suggest the best option would be to make a nice portfolio enclosure to keep the pages in. You can cover the portfolio to make it look like a book on the shelf. Hope this helps.
say like friend
Hmmm. T.E. Lawrence on the front cover of the book looks eerily similar to Peter O'Toole. 😂
Yes, a bit of pulp that came out after the movie to cash in on his popularity at the time. All the best, Darryn