How To Insulate A Warm Loft
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- Опубліковано 20 кві 2022
- Loft extension creating a warm insulated master bedroom with en-suite.
My latest series - 1100 to 3000 Sq ft house -
• Day 1 - 1950s House Re...
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Timings below -
00:01 - What the project is
02:12 - Cost of insulation
03:16 - How to fit
06:16 - Walk around of where I will be insulating
08:48 - Time lapse of insulating the rafters with 100mm insulation
12:47 - Time lapse of insulating over the rafters and plasterboarding
15:00 - Walk around of progress so far
19:05 - Time lapse - insulating between the walls
19:42 - Plaster-boarding progress
24:08 - The finish!
My latest series - 1100 to 3000 Sq ft house -
ua-cam.com/video/jYrWMxWvGvc/v-deo.html
My Instagram - instagram.com/youtube_reno?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
00:01 - What the project is
02:12 - Cost of insulation
03:16 - How to fit
06:16 - Walk around of where I will be insulating
08:48 - Time lapse of insulating the rafters with 100mm insulation
12:47 - Time lapse of insulating over the rafters and plasterboarding
15:00 - Walk around of progress so far
19:05 - Time lapse - insulating between the walls
19:42 - Plasterboarding 90% complete
24:08 - The finish!
One normal person who showed how to do it right from beginning to end. thanks. very helpful. there were a lot of questions but after your video I got answers to everything I didn’t know
Ah that’s great! Thank you.
Gorgeous space, Nick. You are so very talented and not afraid of taking in a project. I have immense respect for you. You’re welcome to come and stay with us in the US if you ever want to take in another project. Lol.
Thanks for the vid Nick. We're currently renovating an 1895 stone built house in Switzerland and loft insulation is one of our main topics for 2023. Your video has been a great help towards sorting my head out with what I need to do.
Ah that’s great - thank you for the nice feedback and good luck!
Really great that you mention the PPE and even the ear defenders. Health is wealth at the end of the day and it's not worth having a brilliantly insulated loft that you can't get up to cos you've done your lungs in during the build. Also, nice to see you've gone with the rigid insulation from the wall plate to the ridge. Great work!
Really helpful to see this video - I've not seen anyone give such a clear and detailed video on this subject. Its credible and gives me confidence. I'm about to undertake a loft conversion in my bungalow in Scotland and will definitely be using this as a guide.
I'm doing this in my loft now, it's really not that difficult. I'd say just make sure you have decent PPE, (respirator mask (not a little disposable cloth one), eye goggles rather than glasses, gloves, kneepads, good head torch etc).
I've not cut the 100mm board yet (im using 25mm in the rathers) but I'm going to cut it with a circular saw to cut a nice straight 55mm deep line then finishing with a hand saw.
I've noticed this guy didn't have any battons behind the boards in his rafters. I just used a couple screws per board placed at the 50mm air gap line. This stops the boards falling upwards and keeps the 50mm gap.
The lad is a sparks , Gods gift to the human race and then there was light . LOL🤞👍
Thank you Nick for such a detailed video. im off to get some materials and get to work. Thank you very much
Spot on Nick, really helped with my loft conversion in a similar aged bungalow.
That’s great to hear, thanks!
Well done for tackling this...it will have saved you a pretty penny no doubt. 👏👍🥳
Thanks Moira!
Brilliant Vid. Excellent explanation throughout!!
Thank you. I am thinking of doing a loft conversion at home myself. This really helped me visualise it.
Ah that’s great. Good luck with the project
Great video a lot better than others I’ve seen on UA-cam
Thanks for the video Nick. Looks fantastic - now enjoy!
Thanks, will do!
Your amazing 👏 thank you and your right about doing it yourself
Fantastic thanks Nick!
This was really helpful thank you
Great video, full of really useful info 👌
Nice video! Very helpful.
Great job
Excellent advice, brilliant video
Thank you!
Great finish
Thank you
Nice job.
*Summary of Nick's Home Renovation Video*
Nick, an electrician by trade, shares a how-to video on insulating a warm loft in a 1936 bungalow renovation. He emphasises that with guidance and advice, anyone can do the job themselves and save money.
Insulation Process
- Rigid Insulation: Nick uses 100mm rigid insulation between the rafters, ensuring a 50mm gap for air flow to prevent cold bridging.
- Cost and Labour: Rigid insulation costs around £40 per sheet, and Nick recommends doing the job yourself to save money.
- Installation Tips: Nick advises wearing appropriate PPE, leaving a 50mm gap between insulation and rafters, and ensuring a tight fit.
Additional Insulation
- Mineral Wall Insulation: Nick explains insulating mineral walls, recommending using 100mm insulation for better heat retention.
- Ceiling Insulation: Nick insulates the floor and ceiling below to keep the space warm.
Completion of the Project
- Plasterboarding and Finishing: Nick shows the process of plasterboarding and finishing the loft space, creating a warm and well-insulated room.
- Final Result: After two weeks of work, Nick successfully completes the bedroom and ensuite renovation, demonstrating that DIY insulation is achievable with proper care and attention.
Nick provides valuable insights and practical tips throughout the video, making DIY insulation accessible to viewers. but
*List of materials used*
- 100mm Rigid Insulation: Used to insulate between the rafters.
- Mineral Wall Insulation: Insulated walls for better heat retention.
- Plasterboard: Used for finishing and covering the insulation.
- Expanding Foam Tape: Used to seal gaps.
- Urethane Sealant: Used for sealing gaps.
- Hammer: Used for installation.
- Ear Defenders: Used for protection.
- Safety Mask: Used for protection while handling insulation.
- Goggles: Used for eye protection.
- Gloves: Used for hand protection.
Great video ty.
Super useful... Thanks
Welcome 😊
Where you cut a.little short, gapotape was a solution for me, and it reduced any small gaps there might be
hi nick, can you do a video on the full costs breakdown of the renovation works. cheers
nice work.
Thank you!
Top notch 👏😎
Thank you
Well illustrated work. I'm impressed you got a friction-fit good enough to not have the PIR falling out from betweeen the rafters. I would have had to be using 100ml tape along the rafters to catch and hold the board either side of each until the 20mm cross-boarding held them in place. Do you have ridge vents at the top of the air gap outside the between-rafter insulation, and were there any particular tricks to prevent them being blocked by the rockwool when pushing it up under the ridge board? Maybe you carried the PIR right up to the ridge board - I couldn't see.
Great video. Really helpful, can you confirm if the 100mm was used between the studs for the walls you don't need to carry the rafter insulation down to floor level? I was hoping to do a cold loft on the outside of the room
Where is the vapour barrier ?
Thanks for the GREAT video! If you have a minute... I have a roof with only tiles then felt. Should I put anything between the felt and the installation board? Cheers for your time either way.
Hi Nick, some years ago when i lived in Finland i had the opportunity to help on an insulation project they used 150mm rigid foam foil front & back & left a 50mm air flow gap - they cut all PIR 10mm undersized ( allowing a 5mm gap on both sides ) a short batten screwed into each rafter was used to support the PIR & pull it forward & keep it in place using a screw ( when placed between the rafters ) the gap was filled with a foam injection gun on all sides - screws on the support batten pulled the PIR to the face of the rafters - no hammering on the PIR to get it in place - when the injection foam was cured the excess was cut away leaving a perfect airtight fit - the whole project was very fast & easy. Ed,
Hi Ed, thank you so much for sharing. Really interesting to hear and sounds to me like a fully professional job!
@alanhodgson8443 commented that now you need to use Gapotape to completely insulate the PIR board, what are your taughts?
@@JoSePh2000121 Hi Joseph, the friend that i was helping is a carpenter & told me that it was very important that all gaps or space between rafters & PIR board had to be filled with injection foam from front to back , that was why the 10mm undersize gap was important ( leaving a 5mm gap on both sides to be filled with foam ) the outside temperature was -40c as we were working up in northwest Finland , so to control / manage heat loss is very important - also 25mm full sheets of PIR covered the whole internal roof / walls to stop thermal bridging from rafters , all joints sealed with injected foam - towards the end of the project we worked wearing tee shirts & were never cold unless we went outdoors. Everything was clad with 12.5mm plasterboard . I have worked on projects in the uk & have used GAPO tape - unless the PIR is cut right & the rafter timber work is perfect it is quite difficult to get an exact seal - to tell the truth i think that the Finnish carpenters method was superior - not alone did make a perfect air tight seal it also held the main PIR sheets in place. Ed,
Thank you so much for taking the time to reply, I’ve certainly kept Gapotape and for what I need it cost me more then the PIR boards 😂.The good thing is the house is new build and the rafters are quite straight. I don’t. think I need such a super insulation as we are not in Finland, I really want to reduce the amount of cold air in the loft.
Should have cut the xtratherm small and used gapotape. There would then be no gaps anywhere to fill or any need to shave the sides.
Well, that might work down there where you don't have minus 25 celsius in winter! Othervice you should put foam between the insulation and the truss and also " glue ends of insulation together with foam so there will be no leak at all! Here up north we cut the insulation board about half inch in both sides so we get foam as deep as the insulating board goes. Makes it solid and keeps the isolation on the right place.
Other videos say to use Gapotape around the sides of the PIR to ensure a snug fit and then tape the seams. Not just a friction fit as shown here
@@g4egk Yes ,i have noticed that! Up here in northern Europe we had -10 celsius for about a week and then +degrees. That led to that i found a leek in my isolation, meening warm air ,moistur included got to the outside of insulation, got freezed ! When temperature rised to plus degrees it melted and water came in the same way moisture got out! So its very important to get it well done with foam in every burst!
You should also tape all the joints. See Skill savers.
Great job, many thanks for showing such a detailed process. 👍
It is very advisable to install some battening onto the fathers to ensure that the insulation does not move. Also as of June this year a product called gapotape is required, it completely fills any discrepancies between the insulation and rafters.
Do you if there is an alternative company that does a similar product to Gapotape?Thanks in advance.
I am not aware of a competitor, Gapotape is very expensive. @@JoSePh2000121
@@JoSePh2000121 Make your own it's easy and miles cheaper.
Nice informative video Nick. Off topic but can I ask what video editing software you use?
Cheers.
Can you put a video for how to do wiring for the loft conversion as well please?thanks
Hi great work, currently renovating a similar age property, where do you recommend buying radiators ? Thanks
Great video. Ventilation behind the insulation, how does the air enter and leave. Are there vents in the eaves and vent tiles in the roof
The 50mm gap is not to do with “cold bridging”; this is where you get heat conduction through a less insulating part. E.g. the rafters could be a cold bridge from the roof to the ceiling (the overlay of the thinner layer minimises this). The 50mm gap is for ventillation, as long as you have air gaps in the soffit.
I'm sorry if it sounds stupid, this insulation in the video would it work when my house gets to hot ?
@@PaulaZapataF If your house is too hot on the inside, the insulation will stop it cooling down. You'll need to open the windows! If you're asking about it keeping your house cool when it's hot outside, then yes, that's what it will do too (assuming that those Velux windows he has don't let too much let too much solar heat in...)
@@PaulaZapataFwhat it will do is slow the heat transfer from hot to cold. If the heat is on the outside then it will slow down the transfer in. As the other poster said if you house is hot inside already it won’t let that heat flow outside.
In this example the sun will hit the tiles on the roof and will transfer to the inside. The foil face on the rigid insulation will reflect that heat to a degree and the yellow bit of the insulation will reduce the transfer. The air gap will let some warm air out, especially if he has ridge tile vents so as the outside temperature drops it will suck cool air in at the eves and expel it at the top via the ridge vents.
I haven't been able to watch the entire vid yet, but my garage roof and walls needs insulating, so I guess it would be the same method and principles outlined in this vid?
I feel like the building inspector didn't know what they were talking about. I'm only a DIYer, but I can't see why you'd have to leave a 50mm gap at the back of the uprights... The gap is for airflow, and as you've pointed out, there's a huge gap behind the wall. 100mm insulation wouldn't have hurt.
Also, where the top of the dwarf wall meets the rafters you have a beam installed at an angle that matches the rafters. I've read that it's better to cut a birdsmouth in the rafters and to have the beam laid horizontally on the uprights. This way the loading from the roof is purely vertical and doesn't rely on the strength of the fixings at all.
Thanks for the video. What is exactly the name of the product you use, please?
Pizza slice cuts insulation board well with no mess, don’t need to cut right through, snaps along the cut like plaster board. 👍
Ha - love it!
I use a tracksaw for a perfect machined edge and use the straight groove for my hand saw, pretty close to perfect everytime
Hi Nick, I have a dilemma and I wouldn’t mind getting your views. I am in the process of converting my loft and the structural engineer suggested to only submit a building notice application instead of full plans application. Do u think that this is a good idea? Are there any risks with building notice only applications?
I would of ran that foam board horizontally. That would of insulated the rafters as well and provided a larger air gap between the roof deck and the foam boards. Install a roof ridge vent and soffit vent boards.
Thanks for the tip
Hi Nick, Great work! Lovely to watch.
My reg's here (DK) require an additional 25mm air gap between the foam insulation and then two layers of 12.5mm plasterboard. I guess there's no air gap requirement on the inside of the sheet rock in the UK?
What does DK stand for?
@@KendalMike Denmark
Donkey Kong
👍👍👍
Di you put insulation on the copper pipe work?
This year they added Gapotape to seal edges as Part L.
Thanks for sharing!
Great! So does that give the sufficient U value? I would have though deeper would be required? Many thanks.
Yes - although worth keeping an eye on as the requirements are constantly changing!
Hi Nick I have a single skin wall at the back of the house that I need insulating internally do you know whether I need the same 100mm insulation and 50mm air gap the same as it is for the ceilings you’ve done? Thanks
You will need insulated plasterboard I would imagine, otherwise you’d have to build a timber frame and then yes put insulation in there with an air gap. Insulated plasterboard would be the best way but check with your local council as to which size is recommended/required
Excellent what about this loft floor any insulation on the walking space of the room thanks
Yes - we put wool insulation from below before plaster boarding the ceiling
Good work apart from now running second layer all the way up also yolu should have foil typed all. Joints.
Joints were taped 👍👍
Thanks!
You mentioned to leave 50mm gap. What if the rafters are small? My rafters are 3 inch (76mm) in depth. What thickness of cleotex or rigid board do you recommend and how much gap should I leave? Thanks
Hi, a minimum of 10mm air gap however 20mm would be better. Good luck!
it's funny, but in belgium we say you"re not allowed to leave a gap of air. + i would never insulate with hard insulation in between the wood. It's ok when the wood is very straight like in this house, but it's not often the case. PUR in a pitched roof enhances the outside noise. So if you live anywhere near a road(which most houses do), use rockwool or similar. It stops the noises.
Always wondered how it was snug fitting, cut a couple of mil over mark ?
Exactly!
Hey mate
T
Thank you for sharing the video and the tips for the 50mm installation. We received a quote of 6,000 pounds for the loft wall and ceiling, which we find too expensive. We've decided to follow your approach and make it a spring project for me and my girlfriend.
We have already installed a raised floor in the loft.
In your video, I noticed that you have an opening. Did you need to obtain planning permission for this? I believe adding windows to the back of the house typically doesn't require permission, but I wanted to confirm.
Wow £6000! No - you don’t require planning permission for internal work such as creating an access door. Good luck with the work!
However for the windows you probably will require planning permission - especially as if looking over neighbours properties etc
Nice work! I am working on the same project. How much insulation material used for this project?
Thanks! Ah I wish I could remember but it was a few years ago. Has to be minimum 20 sheets of 2.4m x 1.2m. Good luck with yours
No air-tightness measures. That’s a major omission. As a wetsuit works with water, insulation functions by trapping air. A membrane should have been installed behind the rigid board. All holes in the cold attic (downlighters, piping, sockets) should have been air-tightened. Draft causes 5x heat loss compared to conduction.
What membrane needs to go behind rigid board? Looked like there was a membrane on top of rafters.
The moisture barrier should have gone on after the foam insulation sheets were installed after all gaps should have been sealed. Then the moisture barrier completely sealed.
Very useful video. Cheers mate. I bought a house with a loft conversion last year and during the first winter investigated why the living space was getting a bit cold in certain spots. Turned out that the living are is insulated with 100mm PIR, but the rafters in the eaves area aren't. There are also holes in the felt, which apparently are meant for air circulation via the cowl vents but I think they might be a little OTT, given that the bottom of the rafters have access to outside air anyway. I'm thinking of putting additional 100mm PIR in the rafters now. I can see that you have not installed cowl vents and just rely on the 50mm between the PIR and the felt, is that correct? thanks!
Really nice video but just a have a question about why you've called it a warm loft but its actually a cold roof install?
I assumed he meant the loft is insulated so it's warm. Yes this is a cold roof. I'm trying to do this on a 70s house where the rafters are all different gaps all over the place. Driving me nuts even with gapotape. 😂😂
Would it make my house or attic on summer because my house is a oven in summer, ive to use air con in Ireland, dont why it gets so warm compare to other houses do be cool
Hi, yes insulation will help cool down in summer and keep warm in winter. Although from my experience if you have a warm house it will help but still be warm!
how have you insulated the boarded part you're walking on ??
Yep - from below with wool insulation (not rigid)
Sorry i ment say Skill Builds
At last a video showing you how to do a job without the person promoting some rubbish or other. Well done mate a very good video. If you can, can you do some on electrical work. like wiring in a she that's at the bottom of the garden
Glad it helped! Will try…
£40 per sheet, now I know why I see so many security videos on twitter, showing this stuff being stolen from building sites.
You could have fixed your knee wall insulation on the inner side without any cutting.
Can this same method work between floors? I.E between a ceiling and first floor? Thanks I’m advance
Hi, yes - best to use cavity wool insulation as it’s much cheaper and easier to
100mm rigid insulation is the equivalent of 200mm of fibreglass,hence the price
Are you walking on OSB board or wood board? What's the thickness?
What's this kind of roof structure called?
It’s tongue and groove chipboard. Think it was 15mm. This is a warm loft but we didn’t change the roof structure so it’s not a dormer or anything technical
100 mm Rockwool would be much cheaper?
One Thing to ask you is Xtratherm is that Fireproof?
It is not fireproof but fire o rated providing a small amount of resistance at high temperatures
Do you need to leave 50 mm gap? What if you leave no gap, there won’t be any air and no condensation?
Without the gap it creates something called thermal bridging, which can cause issues
Condensation comes from within the house. Without the air gap, and without a ridge vent, (or other roof vents) the moisture accumulates at the highest point, the ridge, and the timbers will eventually rot.
per fit how mace
HE BODY , WHEN YOU ARE SPEAKING THE SOUND IS VERY LOW . WHEN IT IS THE MUSIC VERY TOO MUCH HIGHT . PLEASE FOR NEXT TIME . I AGREE YOUR INSTALLATION . THANK
If we haven’t left an air gap behind a 100mm KS board what can we do?
This is in a garage, and there is no loft, just very high ceilings to the rafters
A garage shouldn’t be too bad but should try and leave at least 50mm if you can. Perhaps a smaller insulation would suffice?
I absolutely hate pir insulation 😅😂 I did ground area 70-80sqm of pitched roof which is 100mm between the rafters and 50mm overboarded for the cold bridge. My advice is get someone else to do it 😂
No tape ?
Yes right before boarding but didn’t film it!
Shame to have all that space under the eaves and not utilised for cupboards and storage, otherwise great job thanks!
Thanks! We put a cupboard on each side for storage 👍
Better cutting it witha box cutter knife you dont get as much dust
Wouldn’t get the depth though? Or do you score and snap? Thanks for the comment
Why would you need to insulate a warm loft? (I’ll see myself out!)
WOW! £40 per sheet!! 2:16 Sounds like a bargain now, just ONE YEAR LATER its more like £90 per sheet!!
Gotta love that 'Covid tax'!!
Wow that’s some price increase!
"Must use professionals"....lol....about 30-40% of ALL British builders/trades are somewhere between good to excellent, the rest are below average to utter rubbish.
MY understanding of cold bridging is when warm can travel through materials to the outside?
And because you used foil backed boards you have now made that house a faraday cage. Good luck with phone signal. Wi-Fi will be ok thou.
Why would you bother insulate a warm loft.
The insulation makes it a warm loft. It is a traditional roof.