Thanks man you saved me a lot of money and time cause I was just going crazy about why my 96 Caprice Classic would start and die (my vacuum lines was so brittle that they where crumbling like cookies. We need more people like you thanks man 💯😎
Thank you! I really appreciate that. Comments like this motivate to keep making these videos. I’m just trying to help people save money and fix their own cars! I’m glad this video helped you solve your stalling issue!!!
Hey Larry I also got a 96 caprice classic and I had just replaced the motor and optispark along with the computer n wiring harness but when I come to a stop the car will shake a bit then when I try to accelerate it hesitates to accelerate I was wondering to see if this has ever happened to you with ur classic ?
Were you low on power or like throttle response issues ? Mine is like misfiring here n there but its got power ,codes say a bunch of timing and o2 sensor and fuel so you know how that goes...just curious tho man
Great video! I'm going to share this on the Corvette forums. You were spot on about what is said on the forums. That same advice is still being given today. People have replaced so many parts and taking their cars to the dealer and spent thousands of dollars and they still have the same problem I really don't think anybody checks the vacuum lines like you showed how to do. I know I haven't. I have spent 3 days troubleshooting my 93 Corvette. And it's all the things you had on your list that they say on the forms but in doing a thorough check on my car I have found some problems that I was not aware of such as broken electrical connectors to the sensors or wires where the insulation has come off. I had a bare spot on the wiring connectors to a fuel injector. My car was stolen over a year ago and I just got her back in the past 6 months. I discovered they had cut off both of my cats with a sawzall and cut my ground wire to my starter in half ever since I got the car back I have done nothing but work on it constantly I've got the exhaust Frankenstein together for now and I just keep finding one thing after another wrong with her. I have broken down at least seven times within a 2-week period in the last month and stranded an hour away from home with no help. Once I made it home I decided that car is not going out on the road again until everything on it is gone through and fixed correctly to where it's not going to leave me stranded. I have always worked on my car since I got it in 2009 and I know that car pretty darn well. I never really understood the vacuum system and how much it can mess up your car if it's leaking or if hoses are missing. Today I'm trying to figure out what vacuum hoses are missing off of my car. The air system was removed from my car by whoever stole it. So I'm trying to work backwards and figure out what the heck is missing and what I need to replace. My car's name is Ruby She is a 40th anniversary edition, LT1, six speed manual transmission and is ruby red inside and out with the removable targa top. I am the second owner and found her in Florida after looking for 6 months. I'm in Texas and bought the car sight unseen and flew to Florida to drive her back home. She was in the Sun Coast Corvette club in Florida and won trophies at every car show. During the time she was stolen from me she was not covered and suffered major paint and body damage in addition to destroying my exhaust and everything else they've done with the engine. I installed a Corsa sport Cat-Back exhaust in 2010 and it was really awesome. You should see it now with flex pipe and pieces of cut pipe all clamped on to go from the headers back to the cat back system. Anyway I appreciate your video I'm going to watch it again over and over if I have to and I'm going to definitely share it with Corvette owners experiencing the same issue
Great presentation I learned so much. My 95 Fleetwood failed a smog inspection and the mechanic knew exactly what it was, he used a spark plug boot 90 degree elbow to fix the leak. I noticed that he had a lot of spark plug boots in his toolbox. So keep your boots.
Once again, your advice has saved me! I checked out the vacuum lines and reinstalled “home plate”, and now my 94’ doesn’t stall anymore when it’s warm. God bless
Guys, Working with Wimberley is 100% right by starting with vacuum lines first. It is the correct way to diagnose any engine problem. I diagnose vacuum leaks with a Vacuum Gauge. If there is an indication of a leak, I then do the same. Spray ether or brake cleaner. A vacuum gauge can detect several problems from sticking valves to timing issues. One can be bought almost anywhere and will save a lot of time and money in the long run. I had the same problem with my 1996 Caprice B4U model. It would start but then stall. I used to same process to determine my issue was not the Black Plague Opti but a bad fuel pump. I spent zero dollars finding my issue. I followed the same process of "KISS" Keep it Simple Stupid :-)) Listen to Working with Wimberely. He is right. I have had to replace the distributor cap at 140,000 miles . Parts do wear out. The cap is less than $ 15.00. dont waste your money on a new Opti until you can verify it is really needed. Regards from Ody Slim
Thanks for the feedback and great advice! I don’t have a vacuum gauge, but I’m going to get one. I just wanted to share my story about how a fixed a potentially expensive problem for a few dollars because I figured it could help someone else out!
Ok, so I wasn't even having a stalling problem, I just clicked on this video out of curiosity. Wow! Has to be one of the best, most informative and clear videos I've seen. Impressive! Congratulations and you have a new subscriber. I have a 96 Impala SS so I'll be checking out any and all of your vids that relate to it. Thanks!
That's not an IAC valve ...... that's TPS (Throttle Position sensor)..... but I was that guy that spent all that money on all these parts and still haven't found my problem, but I'm about to do this soon as I get home !
@@WorkingWithWimberley Yeah. I have a 94 Z28 Camaro and you did point to the tps, but great job. Really informative and you are right. Don't waste a lot of money, until you check for leaks. I love driving my "Jack." He only has 110,000 miles. Roars like a lion. Great video. God bless.
I just bought a 95 SS Camaro "130k miles on it" a while back with a stalling while warm and at a stop problem, checked lt1 forums etc and they said Opti, etc, etc.... Checked that same vacuum hose your talking about, cracked right down the middle... Wimberley, the money saver! Thanks bro!
I had the same leak on my 96 SS.. it kept throwing a code and running rough. I was able to wrap the cracked boot with electrical tape and fixed my issue that way. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the admonition to check the simple stuff first and the example of following the problem in depth, not just a quick look. Since my Dad passed, I have been driving his 1995 Buick Roadmaster. Occasionally, the car would just die and I couldn’t figure out the problem. I finally found that the auxiliary battery post was a never fixed recall. I replaced that and it fixed the problem. But, I only found it because I started following wires to each connection, not just doing a visual inspection. I also plan to check all the vacuum lines and I thank you for the hints on simple and cheap ways to fix them.
Thank you! I will. This car has a story. It belonged to the 100 year old former Mayor of Durham North Carolina. I’ll be doing a video on it this spring.
Thanks bro, I was rolling down I24 west @ 75 mph when my caprice just died out. I got towed home and going to used what you have provided me with here, thank you.
Very well done! I know I'm late to the party, but I'd like to add another thing that can trip folks up with LT1s who might have ended up at this video. My 96 Roadmaster had a popping/stalling issue when jumping hard on the accelerator from a stop when the car was up to temp(think like, trying to dart into traffic from a parking lot). I could also get the engine to pop/backfire through the intake when I would aggressively snap the throttle open by hand under the hood. Obvious lean condition, but no codes set, car otherwise drove normally. I did all the usual checks, put a new EGR valve on it, tried a different TPS sensor, nothing seemed to fix the problem. A coworker had an older Buick that used a lot of the same engine management parts that my Roadmaster used. The problem went away when I swapped in his known good MAF sensor. Cool, problem solved. I went out at got an inexpensive replacement MAF from everybody's favorite orange parts store and put it on the car and the problem was STILL THERE!!!! Put the known good MAF back on, the problem went away. I had to spring for a Delphi *new* replacement(not a reman) from RockAuto to get the problem to go away for good.
Awesome video. These cars are old enough to where everything made of rubber needs to be replaced. Just had an issue with the HVAC knob leaking vacuum. Only thing I could come up with is the rubber disc with all the vacuum channels to control the vents is wearing out.
Years ago after installing a new msd opti in my Camaro. My Camaro would surge. I'd be at a stop light in the car would just jump forward out of nowhere basically had to put it in neutral stuff on break to keep it from happening. I went on to the forums as I knew they would they jumped all over my new msd opti. They told me I got to rip it out and send it back. They were all over it. I had a friend who came over and look at it and he suggested to go over all the vacuum lines. So we did we changed all of them. Well low and behold The surge was fixed. Here's the shit though so I went back online and told them I fixed the surge in the idle by changing the vacuum lines. They didn't believe me. They told me I was wrong. That maybe at best it was a temp fix. This is seven maybe eight years ago. I still have that same opti in my car now.
I 100% believe you. I’ve seen guys saying certain wheels won’t fit on a car. Then another guy posts a picture below their post with the wheels on his car proving that they fit. They still won’t admit they were wrong with photographic evidence lol! I use the forums a lot for information, but I usually don’t post. And reasons like yours and my example are exactly why. Ultimately I’m glad we were able to solve ours with vacuum lines, and I’m hoping this video will help more people as well! I actually have a part 2 I need to record. It started misfiring again. Turns out it was a bad spark plug wire. The boot failed and the spark was arcing off of the exhaust manifold. I changed the wire and plug and it’s back to running perfectly. The original opti is still in the car doing just fine.
@@WorkingWithWimberley keep up the good work.. Your videos regarding your LT1 are great. I've watched all of them repeatedly. F**k the forums ! Those guys have a lock on all things LT1 and it is the forums that give our awesome motor a bad name. Anyone who knows there shit knows the LT1 is an outstanding motor. It's not an LS1 but it's the very next best thing and it sounds better then any other motor including the LS1 with the proper intake and exhaust on it. To me the LS1 sounds ricey while the LT1 sounds like a proper muscle car.
You did a good job explaining everything in detail and showing everything also. Well done and like how you spoke up loud and clear enough to be understood. Lots of guys don't do any of that. Thanks for a good video and God bless you too.
Thank you! I’ve been getting a lot of positive feedback on the channel and it’s been for small things like speaking clearly, not having loud music, etc. I joke with my wife about it. It’s like my channel is doing well not because I’m so great, but because a lot of the other how to videos are so bad lol!!!
Thank you thank you and thank you again. I am getting so tired of always an opti. I changed mine 3 yrs ago and now I have the same problems.. Now I will look and test myself before I give my supposed mechanic another 1K for the work..
Thanks for posting this video . I have 96 Impala SS and I was racking my brain trying to figure out the stalling and poor fuel economy problem. After watching your video I figured out the problem and fixed it with $2 worth of vacuum hose. Thanks again you saved me a lot of money and time.
Good work man My car did the same thing where I got out got back in car started sputtering and would not stay running I just checked my throttle body vacuum lines and one of them is very cracked!
Mannnnn.... I came across your video (after doing my spark plugs.... the passenger side was a pita)..... I did my plugs and bought a fuel pump thinking those were the problems.... then I thought I routed the passenger plugs wrong though I checked and triple checked.... I gave up sent it to the shop and the night before I sent it I saw your video but I was like nahhh it’s gotta he plugs..... turns out it was exactly what you said.... I could’ve saved 91 dollars smh
THANK YOU Brother Wimberley! After watching this video I checked my 95 Impala SS and the nipple was rusted off inside the exact vacuum port you highlighted here. Peace & Blessings to you and yours!
Awesome presentation and information. I have a 1996 Impala SS w/LT1 stock, original owner. Recently replaced Evap solenoid (as well as flow switch just in case), hoses look OK but I tightened them up anyway with clamps. Will try that spray check to ensure good sealing, though they had been smoke tested recently. Thank you very much.
@@WorkingWithWimberley Thank you very much! I was suspicious of their smoke tests when either 1 or 2 shops connected the evap solenoid hoses backwards. Now fixed, by me.
Another helpful vid Steven. I'm currently working on a 94 roadmaster that had a complete and total hack working on it before I aquire it. The most interesting thing I found so far is the sunpro temp gauge sender screwed in where the cts is supposed to be on the water pump. I guess the temp gauge in the dash wasn't working correctly. But what I found next totally blew my mind....the hack, realized his mistake, but instead of putting the cts back, he just plugged the connector back in and set it on the intake manifold. The car isn't showing a CEL, but it sure is terrible on fuel. Hmmm.....i wonder y. Thanks again man, you have been a good source of info for me with this. Cheers
Thanks! I appreciate the feedback. I drive older cars too and one of the biggest hurdles is fixing all of the bad work that the car has had over the years. I’ve been there lol!
What's the cts? My temp gage isnt working either and I replaced that same sensor on the water pump with a generic temp switch hoping it would fix it. The haynes manuel isn't very clear on which gage is witch and finding the right part is not easy
You are right 100%. When I changed my egr Pulled the break booster hose loose. Its was so dark in my bro in laws garage. I noticed my break was so stiff too when I tried to start it. I will also replace all the hose clamps that you have to pinch to take off. EGR was bad tho.
I have a 95 Trans Am that I think has this problem, unfortunately already threw a bunch of parts at it, preventative maintenance I guess lol. Hopefully this'll work for me
Would love for you to try to figure this one out (warm/hot stalling). No codes (97 LT1) No vacuum leaks (21 Hg). Fuel pressure is normal. No EGR valve (blocked off). Replaced coil, coil wire, ICM, MAP, ECT, IAT, and MAF with known good parts from another LT1 car I have. Unplugged oxygen sensors, TPS, and IAC. Unplugging the IAC makes it idle at like 1500 RPM (my neighbors love me). I even cleaned up a whole bunch of ring terminals for both power and ground wires with a wire brush and rags. Still stalls. Car still runs otherwise totally normal. No loss of power. Cruises down the highway fine. Idles fine when cold. It doesn't "hunt" for RPM really. I heard it do that once or twice but it mostly just shuts off completely at idle like someone flipped off a switch.
That’s a tough one. I don’t really know. The car I worked on is a 95 so it’s an OBD1 car. Your 97 is an OBD2 car. I’d find a shop that can hook it up to an advanced scanner to read what’s going on.
I'ma be honest. I got a rich on mine that I been chasing for a year, and I finally just recently found out it has a weak spark on cylinder #5. Even after buying a new Opti from a highly-reviewed company (not installed yet), I'm still looking around and trying to find a different explanation for why this is happening. To make matters worse, I had it fixed and it actually ran perfectly fine until I took it to a shop a few months ago, and it's been running rough again ever since. Guess what I'm saying is, wish me luck. Because at this point, everything left is stuff I REALLY don't want to do.
I definitely hope you find the issue. The first time for me was a bad vacuum line. The second time it was a bad spark plug wire: ua-cam.com/video/rNYMPEZbV20/v-deo.html
That is a great video, I went down the Opti spark hole myself. Well prensented well thought out. I really like the pointer as you explain things. Awesome. Thanks
Great video getting ready to check my lines in my 96 Caprice lt1. Finally got a transmission in it after a while sitting. Great video...new sub here!💯💪🏾
Thank you! I just wanted to share this to see if it could help someone else. I was close to replacing the optispark and other parts as well, but it was just a vacuum line.
I will be doing this tomorrow the car runs pretty good but it can stall out of nowhere no warning it’s been to the shop I have ran codes as well had a bad EGR valve still stalls it has new maf,tps,plugs wires ,crankshaft sensor the opti is 8 years old but I been going through this frustration it’s my daily driver right now and stuck on the road in rush hour isn’t fun but I will keep searching thanks for the content
@@WorkingWithWimberley well I can’t find a vacuum problem so far I think I have one more sensor to check the fuel pressure and it will probably be the opti spark because I don’t want it to be the issue
Thanks for the video and showing me where all the vacuum lines are. I am in the same boat. It will run, but I step on the accelerator and it wants to bog down and die. It has only 47,000 miles but I am trying to track down the issue. Thanks.
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped! When I had a hesitation issue, it was actually a spark plug wire. So you may want to check that too. ua-cam.com/video/rNYMPEZbV20/v-deo.html
Wow, this was a great video. All your videos are very helpful and this one has helped a couple of my friends. Wonderful work you do. I am glad I found your channel.
Thank you so much! That means a lot to me. The purpose of my channel is to help. I try to keep the videos short, straight to the point and easy to understand. My father taught me how to do this work and I’m just trying to pay it forward!
I used to work at a Pontiac dealership years ago and one of the Technician said they used to have Firebirds/Trans Ams come in with 10K to 20K kms (6,000 to 12,000 miles) and have these issues. Had the same issue with a 96 Caprice Classic. Turns out the springs get weak overtime inside the EGR valve
FIYAH LION ......blessup for your info, it was really helpful......i have a corona Toyota with that issue and i did your dia and viola....boom...problem solve.....man yu blessing turn up.
I have a 93, 94, and two 95's (all with same issue "starts, runs till it get warm, then cuts off. Won't start until it cools back off). I changed ignition, wires, plugs, new fuel filter, fuel pump, new vacuum line hoses (tests for leak "there are none"), new temp sensors, new fuses (and a hold host of other things that I can't think of right now). Another issue is that the radiator fluid turns brown. I've replaced water pump, heater core, radiator, temperature gauge and flushed the engine several times. The cars will start and run till they get warm, then shut off. There is no fuel flowing to the intake. After they cool down, fuel then flows to the intake, and it starts. Get warm and then the same process. In the little time that it runs the coolant becomes brown. There is no indication of head gasket leak or other loses of pressure. Anyone know what the issue may be.
@@WorkingWithWimberley Yes! I've replaced that also. Same issue. This issue is always with certain former police vehicles. They are doing something to the vehicle that causes it to shut off (case the car not to supply fuel to injectors) when it get warm. It's something simple that they do to cause this.
Where was this video 3 years ago!!!!!! I spent so much money on parts and labor trying to figure this out for everyone to tell me idk what the problem is!!!!! Smh
This video did not help, but mad respect for helping out. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. My 93' z28 has an intermittent idle problem. After it warms up it idles at 1k rpms. When the engine is cold it will idle too low and stall sometimes. I have loss of power sometimes at high rpms. No codes.
Great video. I'm going to look at a 93 camaro with lt1 and the said it acts like it was starving for fuel so he replaced the fuel pump and its still doing the same. He thinks it's the ignition or security system but it has no security light on dash. What would you look at first thanks for any help. Glad I watch your video because everyone said it was the optispark just like you stated.
I’ve had two issues with mine. 1. Was bad vacuum lines and 2. Was a bad plug wire where it was arcing off the exhaust manifold making the engine misfire. I replaced the vacuum lines and replaced the bad spark plug wire and it’s been great ever since.
90% of the time it's something cheap and simple. Also a cheap effective way to find vacuum leaks is to use a Halloween fog machine running the fog into a vacuum port. Then watch for the fog to escape where the leaks are.
Good find. However after it stalled it would start back up, correct? Most of the stalling issues we have after it stalls is, cranks but no start. I ran into an issue of a shorted out fuel injector only when it got hot. After I replaced everything from fuel pump , opti to PCM. The issue was still there. These engines certain models injectors fire all right bank then all left bank. If one shorts out the engine will stall and will not start.
I went to the dealer because my car(96 caprice) was running sluggish after it warmed up, they said they unplugged the egr vacum line and now my car runs fine with no issues They said since i have flow masters they wouldn’t be able to diagnose why my car was running sluggish because it would require the stock exhaust system 🤷🏾♂️
It might be because of the air pump. It pumps air through the exhaust and aftermarket exhaust headers normally don’t have the tube for it so it’s removed. On 96s, it causes a check engine light. That my guess. I talked about that a bit in this video: ua-cam.com/video/DSJfqSJ9VSY/v-deo.html
You're so right about the opti-spark hysteria. Do you just know where all the vacuum lines on this model are or do you have diagrams? I have a 95 Caprice that I'm trying to trace down issues with. Are both the side hoses on the throttle for vacuum or is one for the coolant as well?
If you google "1995 LT1 vacuum label" you'll see pictures of the diagram. From what I see online, I think there is a coolant line on the driver's side of the throttle body. It's definitely worthwhile to take your time to make sure all the vacuum lines are good. The motor will run poorly if there's a leak.
@@WorkingWithWimberley Thanks. Looking for it by "label" helped. I looked closer the other day. On the passenger side there's two vacuum lines. Underneath those is another connection which I assume is for the coolant. There is a line coming out on the driver side that connects to the coolant tank.
Excellent vid, liked & subbed. I have a comment and a question: On that motor, one thing that detoured my diagnostics was troubleshooting with the intake resonator off. This caused the air to bypass the mass airflow sensor, and caused additional (self-inflicted) issues. Taped it off and went back to work on it. The issue is on a 94 Cadillac owned by a friend. the car will not run when warm. Unfortunately he already spent $1500 having somebody do most of the work that you listed in this video: fuel pump; fuel filter; spark plugs & wires and fuel pressure regulator. (Fortunately not the OPTi spark.) I verified the following: at idle: 18 inches of vacuum, fuel pressure 36, without vacuum 45 psi. Verified spark on all eight cylinders, it actually runs fairly decent at idle. But the hotter the engine, it will eventually fail to start or run at all. Seems to be a reasonable amount of exhaust volume exiting the tailpipe. No work as far as I know was done to the EGR valve, we will perform the vacuum leak procedure you described, are there any diagnostics for the EGR valve that can be done? Thanks in advance for any help you can throw our way!
Thanks for watching and subscribing! I really appreciate that. I changed my EGR valve because I had the fault code for it in the system. Many cars before 1996 had the OBD1 system, so you can’t use the typical OBD2 scanner to get the fault codes. There’s a way to get all the trouble codes from the 94-95 cars from the climate control. There are a few videos on UA-cam showing how to do that. I pulled the codes from the climate control and saw that I had one for the EGR valve, so I changed it. I didn’t actually run a test on the EGR. As far as the stalling goes, you definitely should do the method I show where you spray down the vacuum lines while the car is running at idle. My Fleetwood ran great when cold, but it stalled when it was warm at idle. That’s all I have on it lol. If your vacuums lines are good, and all the others parts I mention in the video are good, I don’t know what else it could be. I hope this helps.
Right now on this 94 z28 I’m now having issues with cheap azz Chevy gas lines cracking and brittle spewing gas under the driver side of the car. 3 places the line is cracked.
Thanks man you saved me a lot of money and time cause I was just going crazy about why my 96 Caprice Classic would start and die (my vacuum lines was so brittle that they where crumbling like cookies. We need more people like you thanks man 💯😎
Thank you! I really appreciate that. Comments like this motivate to keep making these videos. I’m just trying to help people save money and fix their own cars! I’m glad this video helped you solve your stalling issue!!!
Your welcome bro ✊🏾
Ignition coil or icm
Hey Larry I also got a 96 caprice classic and I had just replaced the motor and optispark along with the computer n wiring harness but when I come to a stop the car will shake a bit then when I try to accelerate it hesitates to accelerate I was wondering to see if this has ever happened to you with ur classic ?
Were you low on power or like throttle response issues ?
Mine is like misfiring here n there but its got power ,codes say a bunch of timing and o2 sensor and fuel so you know how that goes...just curious tho man
Great video! I'm going to share this on the Corvette forums. You were spot on about what is said on the forums. That same advice is still being given today. People have replaced so many parts and taking their cars to the dealer and spent thousands of dollars and they still have the same problem I really don't think anybody checks the vacuum lines like you showed how to do. I know I haven't. I have spent 3 days troubleshooting my 93 Corvette. And it's all the things you had on your list that they say on the forms but in doing a thorough check on my car I have found some problems that I was not aware of such as broken electrical connectors to the sensors or wires where the insulation has come off. I had a bare spot on the wiring connectors to a fuel injector. My car was stolen over a year ago and I just got her back in the past 6 months. I discovered they had cut off both of my cats with a sawzall and cut my ground wire to my starter in half ever since I got the car back I have done nothing but work on it constantly I've got the exhaust Frankenstein together for now and I just keep finding one thing after another wrong with her. I have broken down at least seven times within a 2-week period in the last month and stranded an hour away from home with no help. Once I made it home I decided that car is not going out on the road again until everything on it is gone through and fixed correctly to where it's not going to leave me stranded. I have always worked on my car since I got it in 2009 and I know that car pretty darn well. I never really understood the vacuum system and how much it can mess up your car if it's leaking or if hoses are missing. Today I'm trying to figure out what vacuum hoses are missing off of my car. The air system was removed from my car by whoever stole it. So I'm trying to work backwards and figure out what the heck is missing and what I need to replace. My car's name is Ruby She is a 40th anniversary edition, LT1, six speed manual transmission and is ruby red inside and out with the removable targa top. I am the second owner and found her in Florida after looking for 6 months. I'm in Texas and bought the car sight unseen and flew to Florida to drive her back home. She was in the Sun Coast Corvette club in Florida and won trophies at every car show. During the time she was stolen from me she was not covered and suffered major paint and body damage in addition to destroying my exhaust and everything else they've done with the engine. I installed a Corsa sport Cat-Back exhaust in 2010 and it was really awesome. You should see it now with flex pipe and pieces of cut pipe all clamped on to go from the headers back to the cat back system. Anyway I appreciate your video I'm going to watch it again over and over if I have to and I'm going to definitely share it with Corvette owners experiencing the same issue
@@StephanieClark-k4i Thank you so much! I appreciate the kind words. It sounds like you have an awesome Vette. You should share it on UA-cam.
Great presentation I learned so much. My 95 Fleetwood failed a smog inspection and the mechanic knew exactly what it was, he used a spark plug boot 90 degree elbow to fix the leak. I noticed that he had a lot of spark plug boots in his toolbox. So keep your boots.
Thanks! Great advice!
Once again, your advice has saved me! I checked out the vacuum lines and reinstalled “home plate”, and now my 94’ doesn’t stall anymore when it’s warm. God bless
That’s awesome! I’m glad the video helped! 🙏🏽🙌🏽
Very good information. I’ve had LT1 engines for the last 20 years. And that’s the first thing you want to do. Check vacuum lines.
Thanks! I just wanted to let everyone know how I solved my issue. Hopefully this information can help others.
Guys, Working with Wimberley is 100% right by starting with vacuum lines first. It is the correct way to diagnose
any engine problem. I diagnose vacuum leaks with a Vacuum Gauge. If there is an indication of a leak, I then do
the same. Spray ether or brake cleaner. A vacuum gauge can detect several problems from sticking valves to
timing issues. One can be bought almost anywhere and will save a lot of time and money in the long run. I had
the same problem with my 1996 Caprice B4U model. It would start but then stall. I used to same process to
determine my issue was not the Black Plague Opti but a bad fuel pump. I spent zero dollars finding my issue.
I followed the same process of "KISS" Keep it Simple Stupid :-)) Listen to Working with Wimberely. He is right.
I have had to replace the distributor cap at 140,000 miles . Parts do wear out. The cap is less than $ 15.00. dont
waste your money on a new Opti until you can verify it is really needed. Regards from Ody Slim
Thanks for the feedback and great advice! I don’t have a vacuum gauge, but I’m going to get one. I just wanted to share my story about how a fixed a potentially expensive problem for a few dollars because I figured it could help someone else out!
Ok, so I wasn't even having a stalling problem, I just clicked on this video out of curiosity. Wow! Has to be one of the best, most informative and clear videos I've seen. Impressive! Congratulations and you have a new subscriber. I have a 96 Impala SS so I'll be checking out any and all of your vids that relate to it. Thanks!
You’re welcome! I have several different videos doing stuff on the LT1 cars.
I love the term *Home Plate* for that air tank on top.
Me too. And the part closest to the air filter is First Base.
That's not an IAC valve ...... that's TPS (Throttle Position sensor)..... but I was that guy that spent all that money on all these parts and still haven't found my problem, but I'm about to do this soon as I get home !
Thanks for the correction. I hope you find the issue and get it fixed.
That was my problem. so glad I checked vacuum before spending a lot of time and money chasing ignition gremlins. Thank you.
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
When You pointed out the iac valve . You pointed to the tps sensor . The iac is harder to get to its under the tps sensor
Thanks for letting me know.
@@WorkingWithWimberley Yeah. I have a 94 Z28 Camaro and you did point to the tps, but great job. Really informative and you are right. Don't waste a lot of money, until you check for leaks. I love driving my "Jack." He only has 110,000 miles. Roars like a lion. Great video. God bless.
That's pretty cool. The 94 Z28 is nice! Thanks for the feedback and God Bless you too!!!
Dude , thanks cuz I just spent 1600 on work of my 96 camaro. Tomorrow I'm checking all my hoses
Ok cool. Hopefully that helps out.
I just bought a 95 SS Camaro "130k miles on it" a while back with a stalling while warm and at a stop problem, checked lt1 forums etc and they said Opti, etc, etc.... Checked that same vacuum hose your talking about, cracked right down the middle... Wimberley, the money saver! Thanks bro!
You’re welcome! That’s exactly why I made this video! Just trying to do my part to help out.
I had the same leak on my 96 SS.. it kept throwing a code and running rough. I was able to wrap the cracked boot with electrical tape and fixed my issue that way. Thanks for the video!
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
Thanks for the admonition to check the simple stuff first and the example of following the problem in depth, not just a quick look. Since my Dad passed, I have been driving his 1995 Buick Roadmaster. Occasionally, the car would just die and I couldn’t figure out the problem. I finally found that the auxiliary battery post was a never fixed recall. I replaced that and it fixed the problem. But, I only found it because I started following wires to each connection, not just doing a visual inspection. I also plan to check all the vacuum lines and I thank you for the hints on simple and cheap ways to fix them.
You’re welcome! I’m sorry to hear about your dad. I hope you get many years of great memories from his Roadmaster. 🙏🏽
That’s an amazing find! Hang on to that car man
Thank you! I will. This car has a story. It belonged to the 100 year old former Mayor of Durham North Carolina. I’ll be doing a video on it this spring.
Thanks bro, I was rolling down I24 west @ 75 mph when my caprice just died out. I got towed home and going to used what you have provided me with here, thank you.
You’re welcome! I hope it’s a simple fix!
Very well done! I know I'm late to the party, but I'd like to add another thing that can trip folks up with LT1s who might have ended up at this video. My 96 Roadmaster had a popping/stalling issue when jumping hard on the accelerator from a stop when the car was up to temp(think like, trying to dart into traffic from a parking lot). I could also get the engine to pop/backfire through the intake when I would aggressively snap the throttle open by hand under the hood. Obvious lean condition, but no codes set, car otherwise drove normally. I did all the usual checks, put a new EGR valve on it, tried a different TPS sensor, nothing seemed to fix the problem. A coworker had an older Buick that used a lot of the same engine management parts that my Roadmaster used. The problem went away when I swapped in his known good MAF sensor. Cool, problem solved. I went out at got an inexpensive replacement MAF from everybody's favorite orange parts store and put it on the car and the problem was STILL THERE!!!! Put the known good MAF back on, the problem went away. I had to spring for a Delphi *new* replacement(not a reman) from RockAuto to get the problem to go away for good.
Thanks for the info!
Just picked up a corvette off a guy that changed the optispark and still didn't fix the problem, im gonna check these lines!
I hope you find the issue!
Awesome video. These cars are old enough to where everything made of rubber needs to be replaced. Just had an issue with the HVAC knob leaking vacuum. Only thing I could come up with is the rubber disc with all the vacuum channels to control the vents is wearing out.
Thanks! And you're right. After time, the rubber and plastic can start to deteriorate and will need to be replaced!
Years ago after installing a new msd opti in my Camaro. My Camaro would surge. I'd be at a stop light in the car would just jump forward out of nowhere basically had to put it in neutral stuff on break to keep it from happening. I went on to the forums as I knew they would they jumped all over my new msd opti. They told me I got to rip it out and send it back. They were all over it. I had a friend who came over and look at it and he suggested to go over all the vacuum lines. So we did we changed all of them. Well low and behold The surge was fixed. Here's the shit though so I went back online and told them I fixed the surge in the idle by changing the vacuum lines. They didn't believe me. They told me I was wrong. That maybe at best it was a temp fix. This is seven maybe eight years ago. I still have that same opti in my car now.
I 100% believe you. I’ve seen guys saying certain wheels won’t fit on a car. Then another guy posts a picture below their post with the wheels on his car proving that they fit. They still won’t admit they were wrong with photographic evidence lol! I use the forums a lot for information, but I usually don’t post. And reasons like yours and my example are exactly why. Ultimately I’m glad we were able to solve ours with vacuum lines, and I’m hoping this video will help more people as well! I actually have a part 2 I need to record. It started misfiring again. Turns out it was a bad spark plug wire. The boot failed and the spark was arcing off of the exhaust manifold. I changed the wire and plug and it’s back to running perfectly. The original opti is still in the car doing just fine.
@@WorkingWithWimberley keep up the good work.. Your videos regarding your LT1 are great. I've watched all of them repeatedly. F**k the forums ! Those guys have a lock on all things LT1 and it is the forums that give our awesome motor a bad name. Anyone who knows there shit knows the LT1 is an outstanding motor. It's not an LS1 but it's the very next best thing and it sounds better then any other motor including the LS1 with the proper intake and exhaust on it. To me the LS1 sounds ricey while the LT1 sounds like a proper muscle car.
Life saver with my roadmaster. Only have an exhaust video of it but man it has been an absolute blessing of a beast. 94 lt1. We appreciate your work.
Thanks! I really appreciate that. We need to keep these classics on the road!
That 90° boot that was damaged can be replaces with a spark plug boot. It fits perfectly and will withstand high temps better.
Thanks for the tip.
You did a good job explaining everything in detail and showing everything also. Well done and like how you spoke up loud and clear enough to be understood. Lots of guys don't do any of that. Thanks for a good video and God bless you too.
Thank you! I’ve been getting a lot of positive feedback on the channel and it’s been for small things like speaking clearly, not having loud music, etc. I joke with my wife about it. It’s like my channel is doing well not because I’m so great, but because a lot of the other how to videos are so bad lol!!!
@@WorkingWithWimberley You did well. Keep it up.
Champion! My 94 bubble will live forever!!
LOL! I hope that it does. Those are great cars!
Thank you thank you and thank you again. I am getting so tired of always an opti. I changed mine 3 yrs ago and now I have the same problems.. Now I will look and test myself before I give my supposed mechanic another 1K for the work..
You’re welcome! I’m not saying it isn’t the opti, I’m just saying check everything else first before you replace it. 👍🏽👌🏽
Thanks for posting this video . I have 96 Impala SS and I was racking my brain trying to figure out the stalling and poor fuel economy problem. After watching your video I figured out the problem and fixed it with $2 worth of vacuum hose. Thanks again you saved me a lot of money and time.
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
My 94 Roadmaster is in the shop. I'm gonna relay this information to my mechanic pu before he starts pulling things apart. Thanks for the heads up.
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
When you talk about the IAC, you were actually pointing to the TPS. The IAC is below that part.
Thanks for that information.
You the man with the no bullshit video! Straight to the point! Thank you!!
Thanks! I just had a spark plug wire fail. I made a video about that too. ua-cam.com/video/rNYMPEZbV20/v-deo.html
Very informative. Thanks for taking the time to thoroughly explain your fixes.
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
I agree. Forums can be misleading! I just deleted ( commanded off) all those parts from my PCM. Great job!
Thanks! Much appreciated!
Good work man My car did the same thing where I got out got back in car started sputtering and would not stay running I just checked my throttle body vacuum lines and one of them is very cracked!
Thanks! I’m glad the video helped!
I love those 90’s Fleetwoods. Man are they sweet looking sedans
I agree! I love the big caddies with all the chrome.
Great factual information bro, ALWAYS start small and then go big🙏🏾💯
Thank you! I appreciate the support!
Great video man! Thanks for showing an easy way to trouble shoot the issue
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped! Thanks for the support!
Mannnnn.... I came across your video (after doing my spark plugs.... the passenger side was a pita)..... I did my plugs and bought a fuel pump thinking those were the problems.... then I thought I routed the passenger plugs wrong though I checked and triple checked.... I gave up sent it to the shop and the night before I sent it I saw your video but I was like nahhh it’s gotta he plugs..... turns out it was exactly what you said.... I could’ve saved 91 dollars smh
I’m glad you eventually fixed the vacuum lines and solved the problem! I think you still did good only spending $91.
My 94 fleetwood brougham is hesitating and dying out as well. Thanks imma check my hoses first
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
YES! Thank you. Totally forgot about a simple vacuum leak.
I hope that’s your issue because it a cheap and easy fix!
My 94 impala had the same issue, thanks man. I actually have a neighbor with the same issues
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
Much help I feel like no matter what car you get you should always do a a video on what you fix and what need fixing vice versa big help
Thanks! I agree!
THANK YOU Brother Wimberley! After watching this video I checked my 95 Impala SS and the nipple was rusted off inside the exact vacuum port you highlighted here. Peace & Blessings to you and yours!
You are very welcome! I’m glad the video helped. God bless!
👍 I always check the simple things first. Amen.
Agreed 100%!
Awesome presentation and information. I have a 1996 Impala SS w/LT1 stock, original owner. Recently replaced Evap solenoid (as well as flow switch just in case), hoses look OK but I tightened them up anyway with clamps. Will try that spray check to ensure good sealing, though they had been smoke tested recently. Thank you very much.
I believe the spray check does work well. It worked for me. You can search on UA-cam and see many mechanics use this method in their shops too. 👌🏽
@@WorkingWithWimberley Thank you very much! I was suspicious of their smoke tests when either 1 or 2 shops connected the evap solenoid hoses backwards. Now fixed, by me.
Another helpful vid Steven. I'm currently working on a 94 roadmaster that had a complete and total hack working on it before I aquire it. The most interesting thing I found so far is the sunpro temp gauge sender screwed in where the cts is supposed to be on the water pump. I guess the temp gauge in the dash wasn't working correctly. But what I found next totally blew my mind....the hack, realized his mistake, but instead of putting the cts back, he just plugged the connector back in and set it on the intake manifold. The car isn't showing a CEL, but it sure is terrible on fuel. Hmmm.....i wonder y. Thanks again man, you have been a good source of info for me with this. Cheers
Thanks! I appreciate the feedback. I drive older cars too and one of the biggest hurdles is fixing all of the bad work that the car has had over the years. I’ve been there lol!
What's the cts? My temp gage isnt working either and I replaced that same sensor on the water pump with a generic temp switch hoping it would fix it. The haynes manuel isn't very clear on which gage is witch and finding the right part is not easy
Honest person
I definitely try my best to be honest.
Thanks man!!! Just got my 94 caprice back in motion
That’s awesome! I’m glad the video helped!
You are right 100%. When I changed my egr Pulled the break booster hose loose. Its was so dark in my bro in laws garage. I noticed my break was so stiff too when I tried to start it. I will also replace all the hose clamps that you have to pinch to take off. EGR was bad tho.
Good! I’m glad you were able to fix it!!
I have a 95 Trans Am that I think has this problem, unfortunately already threw a bunch of parts at it, preventative maintenance I guess lol. Hopefully this'll work for me
You have nothing to lose! Give it a shot.
good instruction will check for my LT1 idle high
Awesome!
LT1 engines are still awesome. Great video.
Yes they are! Thanks!
Would love for you to try to figure this one out (warm/hot stalling).
No codes (97 LT1)
No vacuum leaks (21 Hg).
Fuel pressure is normal.
No EGR valve (blocked off).
Replaced coil, coil wire, ICM, MAP, ECT, IAT, and MAF with known good parts from another LT1 car I have.
Unplugged oxygen sensors, TPS, and IAC. Unplugging the IAC makes it idle at like 1500 RPM (my neighbors love me).
I even cleaned up a whole bunch of ring terminals for both power and ground wires with a wire brush and rags.
Still stalls.
Car still runs otherwise totally normal. No loss of power. Cruises down the highway fine. Idles fine when cold. It doesn't "hunt" for RPM really. I heard it do that once or twice but it mostly just shuts off completely at idle like someone flipped off a switch.
That’s a tough one. I don’t really know. The car I worked on is a 95 so it’s an OBD1 car. Your 97 is an OBD2 car. I’d find a shop that can hook it up to an advanced scanner to read what’s going on.
Great spot on the stalling issue ......Found the exact problem on my 95 Fleet. Thanks Man.
You’re welcome! I’m glad this video is helping people with the same issue.
What was your 95 doing?
I'ma be honest. I got a rich on mine that I been chasing for a year, and I finally just recently found out it has a weak spark on cylinder #5. Even after buying a new Opti from a highly-reviewed company (not installed yet), I'm still looking around and trying to find a different explanation for why this is happening. To make matters worse, I had it fixed and it actually ran perfectly fine until I took it to a shop a few months ago, and it's been running rough again ever since.
Guess what I'm saying is, wish me luck. Because at this point, everything left is stuff I REALLY don't want to do.
I definitely hope you find the issue. The first time for me was a bad vacuum line. The second time it was a bad spark plug wire: ua-cam.com/video/rNYMPEZbV20/v-deo.html
Thank you man!! You saved me a lot of money!!
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
That is a great video, I went down the Opti spark hole myself. Well prensented well thought out. I really like the pointer as you explain things. Awesome. Thanks
Thanks! That pointer is a leftover portion of threaded steel rod I had in my garage lol.
Thank you,very well explained.
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
Thank you ,gives me a new avenue to look at
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
Great video getting ready to check my lines in my 96 Caprice lt1. Finally got a transmission in it after a while sitting. Great video...new sub here!💯💪🏾
Thanks! I’m glad the video helped. And thanks for the sub!
Great video. Well spoken and through. Also way to deter from the opti spark rabbit hole
Thank you! I just wanted to share this to see if it could help someone else. I was close to replacing the optispark and other parts as well, but it was just a vacuum line.
Not only do I agree with you on all counts, but I concur!
Awesome! I just want everyone to check those vacuum lines first before buying any replacement parts.
I will be doing this tomorrow the car runs pretty good but it can stall out of nowhere no warning it’s been to the shop I have ran codes as well had a bad EGR valve still stalls it has new maf,tps,plugs wires ,crankshaft sensor the opti is 8 years old but I been going through this frustration it’s my daily driver right now and stuck on the road in rush hour isn’t fun but I will keep searching thanks for the content
You’re welcome! I hope you’re able to find your issue.
@@WorkingWithWimberley well I can’t find a vacuum problem so far I think I have one more sensor to check the fuel pressure and it will probably be the opti spark because I don’t want it to be the issue
Thanks for the video and showing me where all the vacuum lines are. I am in the same boat. It will run, but I step on the accelerator and it wants to bog down and die. It has only 47,000 miles but I am trying to track down the issue. Thanks.
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped! When I had a hesitation issue, it was actually a spark plug wire. So you may want to check that too. ua-cam.com/video/rNYMPEZbV20/v-deo.html
Wow, this was a great video. All your videos are very helpful and this one has helped a couple of my friends. Wonderful work you do. I am glad I found your channel.
Thank you so much! That means a lot to me. The purpose of my channel is to help. I try to keep the videos short,
straight to the point and easy to understand. My father taught me how to do this work and I’m just trying to pay it forward!
I used to work at a Pontiac dealership years ago and one of the Technician said they used to have Firebirds/Trans Ams come in with 10K to 20K kms (6,000 to 12,000 miles) and have these issues. Had the same issue with a 96 Caprice Classic. Turns out the springs get weak overtime inside the EGR valve
Thanks for sharing! I did replace the EGR valve before doing the vacuum lines.
FIYAH LION ......blessup for your info, it was really helpful......i have a corona Toyota with that issue and i did your dia and viola....boom...problem solve.....man yu blessing turn up.
That’s awesome! I’m glad it worked out for you! Blessings to you too!
Thank you brother I appreciate it 👍🏿.
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
Thanks brother
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
Thank you that did the job! That is a old method, that would do on my 60's 70s & 80s never thought about the 90s! 👍
The 93-96 Fleetwood is a unique car. It looked old when it was new 😂. And GM was still using old tech in the motor.
Replacing all my vacuum lines in the future too.
It’s a good thing to do. They’ll stall out that motor if they go bad.
I have a 93, 94, and two 95's (all with same issue "starts, runs till it get warm, then cuts off. Won't start until it cools back off). I changed ignition, wires, plugs, new fuel filter, fuel pump, new vacuum line hoses (tests for leak "there are none"), new temp sensors, new fuses (and a hold host of other things that I can't think of right now). Another issue is that the radiator fluid turns brown. I've replaced water pump, heater core, radiator, temperature gauge and flushed the engine several times.
The cars will start and run till they get warm, then shut off. There is no fuel flowing to the intake. After they cool down, fuel then flows to the intake, and it starts. Get warm and then the same process. In the little time that it runs the coolant becomes brown. There is no indication of head gasket leak or other loses of pressure.
Anyone know what the issue may be.
One of the main things I see mentioned in the forums is the ICM ignition control module. If you already replaced that, then I don’t know.
@@WorkingWithWimberley Yes! I've replaced that also. Same issue. This issue is always with certain former police vehicles. They are doing something to the vehicle that causes it to shut off (case the car not to supply fuel to injectors) when it get warm. It's something simple that they do to cause this.
This definitely was the exact problem I recently had thank you bro
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
You can use a spark plug boot to replace the boot on vacuum line.
Thanks!
Good job.. great video... very informative..I'm having the same problem... Thank you very much...👍
You're welcome!! I just wanted to share what I did to fix my stalling issues. Hopefully this can help someone else save time and money!
Excellent video sir
Thanks! Much appreciated!
Thanks for the informative video.....
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
It worked for me !! Ty
That’s awesome! You’re welcome!
Where was this video 3 years ago!!!!!! I spent so much money on parts and labor trying to figure this out for everyone to tell me idk what the problem is!!!!! Smh
Excellent advice!
Thank you!
great vid...... your troubleshooting breakdown - is on point!
Thanks! I’m glad the video helped!
This video did not help, but mad respect for helping out. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
My 93' z28 has an intermittent idle problem. After it warms up it idles at 1k rpms. When the engine is cold it will idle too low and stall sometimes. I have loss of power sometimes at high rpms. No codes.
It could be the IAC or the mass airflow sensor, but I’m not sure.
Great video. I'm going to look at a 93 camaro with lt1 and the said it acts like it was starving for fuel so he replaced the fuel pump and its still doing the same. He thinks it's the ignition or security system but it has no security light on dash. What would you look at first thanks for any help. Glad I watch your video because everyone said it was the optispark just like you stated.
I’ve had two issues with mine. 1. Was bad vacuum lines and 2. Was a bad plug wire where it was arcing off the exhaust manifold making the engine misfire. I replaced the vacuum lines and replaced the bad spark plug wire and it’s been great ever since.
@@WorkingWithWimberley I went and looked at it it turned over when I sprayed gas in intake but the fuel pump wouldn't prime. Maybe bad key/Ignition
90% of the time it's something cheap and simple.
Also a cheap effective way to find vacuum leaks is to use a Halloween fog machine running the fog into a vacuum port. Then watch for the fog to escape where the leaks are.
Thanks for the tip!
Good find. However after it stalled it would start back up, correct? Most of the stalling issues we have after it stalls is, cranks but no start. I ran into an issue of a shorted out fuel injector only when it got hot. After I replaced everything from fuel pump , opti to PCM. The issue was still there. These engines certain models injectors fire all right bank then all left bank. If one shorts out the engine will stall and will not start.
That’s correct. When mine stalled, I could immediately start it back up.
Thanks for sharing this
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
I went to the dealer because my car(96 caprice) was running sluggish after it warmed up, they said they unplugged the egr vacum line and now my car runs fine with no issues
They said since i have flow masters they wouldn’t be able to diagnose why my car was running sluggish because it would require the stock exhaust system 🤷🏾♂️
It might be because of the air pump. It pumps air through the exhaust and aftermarket exhaust headers normally don’t have the tube for it so it’s removed. On 96s, it causes a check engine light. That my guess. I talked about that a bit in this video: ua-cam.com/video/DSJfqSJ9VSY/v-deo.html
I have a 1992 Roadmaster and I couldn’t pass emissions test, I will spray my vacuum lines and see and listen for any idle/RPMs changing
I hope it works for you!
You're so right about the opti-spark hysteria. Do you just know where all the vacuum lines on this model are or do you have diagrams? I have a 95 Caprice that I'm trying to trace down issues with. Are both the side hoses on the throttle for vacuum or is one for the coolant as well?
If you google "1995 LT1 vacuum label" you'll see pictures of the diagram. From what I see online, I think there is a coolant line on the driver's side of the throttle body. It's definitely worthwhile to take your time to make sure all the vacuum lines are good. The motor will run poorly if there's a leak.
@@WorkingWithWimberley Thanks. Looking for it by "label" helped. I looked closer the other day. On the passenger side there's two vacuum lines. Underneath those is another connection which I assume is for the coolant. There is a line coming out on the driver side that connects to the coolant tank.
Excellent vid, liked & subbed. I have a comment and a question:
On that motor, one thing that detoured my diagnostics was troubleshooting with the intake resonator off. This caused the air to bypass the mass airflow sensor, and caused additional (self-inflicted) issues. Taped it off and went back to work on it.
The issue is on a 94 Cadillac owned by a friend. the car will not run when warm. Unfortunately he already spent $1500 having somebody do most of the work that you listed in this video: fuel pump; fuel filter; spark plugs & wires and fuel pressure regulator. (Fortunately not the OPTi spark.)
I verified the following: at idle: 18 inches of vacuum, fuel pressure 36, without vacuum 45 psi. Verified spark on all eight cylinders, it actually runs fairly decent at idle. But the hotter the engine, it will eventually fail to start or run at all. Seems to be a reasonable amount of exhaust volume exiting the tailpipe. No work as far as I know was done to the EGR valve, we will perform the vacuum leak procedure you described, are there any diagnostics for the EGR valve that can be done? Thanks in advance for any help you can throw our way!
Thanks for watching and subscribing! I really appreciate that. I changed my EGR valve because I had the fault code for it in the system. Many cars before 1996 had the OBD1 system, so you can’t use the typical OBD2 scanner to get the fault codes. There’s a way to get all the trouble codes from the 94-95 cars from the climate control. There are a few videos on UA-cam showing how to do that. I pulled the codes from the climate control and saw that I had one for the EGR valve, so I changed it. I didn’t actually run a test on the EGR. As far as the stalling goes, you definitely should do the method I show where you spray down the vacuum lines while the car is running at idle. My Fleetwood ran great when cold, but it stalled when it was warm at idle. That’s all I have on it lol. If your vacuums lines are good, and all the others parts I mention in the video are good, I don’t know what else it could be. I hope this helps.
WorkingWithWimberley We’ll give both a try and let you know. Thanks for the quick response!
Brilliant video!!! Thanks!!!
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
Thank you sir!
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
You are so correct mine was the same (94 TA LT1) I found it when I was making upgrades to the car thanks for the video and you e!aimed it awesomely
That’s great! I’m glad you were able to fix your issue!
Right now on this 94 z28 I’m now having issues with cheap azz Chevy gas lines cracking and brittle spewing gas under the driver side of the car. 3 places the line is cracked.
Those plastic lines definitely get brittle over time.
I'm having that same problem with my LT1!
Did you check the vacuum lines?
Thanks
No problem!
Thanks man, i have same problems with my Caddy.
You’re welcome! Hopefully it’s just vacuum lines for you too.
I gonna change them with throthle body sensors. Hope it will fix the issue. Thanks.
Good job, man. Thanks for the tips. Keep posting stuff like this. God bless.
God bless you too! I try to post a new video at least once a week.
very informative , thanks man
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
Thanks so much man! I will try this! Thank you!
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!
Well done, appreciate the details. Thanks
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video helped!