How to pull Ford Model A rear brake drums, inspect brakes
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
- This is a clip from a 2022 video. Full video here- • 1930 Ford Model A FIRS...
Here is the link to the Mitchell Hub Puller- mitchelloverdr... No, I'm not being paid or given anything. Paid full price for mine. Just wanted to share with you because it's so cool.
Here's the full video-
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#paulshinn
Dad's crescent wrench, Paul I recommend that when you're using your wrench just before you know you're going to stop tightening a bolt, say "click". Just to see the reaction from your audience.
OH MAN!!!! I am totally going to do that from now on! Thanks!! HAHAhahahaahah!!!
This is great Paul. I used that great brake puller last Saturday on a friend's car and he had two different kinds of rear hubs on the back. Your videos helped us a lot when we were pulling our brake hubs and inspecting and cleaning the brakes.
Excellent!!! Thanks
Hi Paul!: Thanks for editing the previous video to help folks who want to remove and inspect their rear hubs and brakes! I enjoyed seeing it again!
You bet!
great info. My brakes have probably not been looked at since the late 70's. I should probably have a peek at them.
That’s a nice hub puller, last year I borrowed one from a club member. The one used is the half moon that would slip around, using a full moon spilt puller is safer and less chance of damaging the hub. Added to the bucket list. Thanks Ken
I paid full price for this one. It was worth every penny and more.
Great video, Paul! I think people don't inspect their rear brakes often enough because they are intimidated by removing and replacing the rear drums. As you show, it's not that hard to do. I don't know if the Mitchell hub puller will allow you to do it (if it will fit) but I recommend that people thread the axle nut back on the axle, almost all the way, backwards (flat side out instead of the castle side) and then be pressing, tapping, etc., against it when breaking the drum loose, instead of the flat end of the axle itself. (Maybe you did this and we could not see the nut.) It is easy to mess up the threads on the end of the axle when pulling, tapping, and then that nut will not want to thread back on. When the drum is off the car, besides inspecting the brakes, it is also a good opportunity to look at the grease on the rear bearing inside the hub, and possible slather a bit of new, fresh grease in on the bearing. "It can't hurt." Did you install a steel washer between the hub and the nut? I did not see one come off or go on (but I know you edit some stuff out to keep the time down). Thanks again for another helpful segment! Jim
Thanks Jim! Good tip on the backwards nut I do that now. Didn't this time. But I did on the MotorTrend TV show and showed it. I did use a washer. Mentioned it when I was doing the other side, but super quickly, easily missed.
When you’re using these tools, please do a close-up shot. I really don’t need to see your back. I need to see what your hands are doing. Thanks you’re great Paul I love all your videos.
I did. When I remembered.
Great job ! Pulling brake drums on some forklifts are just like yours BUT we always put a little grease on the spline or key shaft before reinstalling the brake drum , makes the next time to remove it so easy!
There was plenty of grease left on there from previous. I do the same thing if dry. Great minds!!
Good job and great idea to isolate the different task to a separate segment. It's been a while since I pulled a drum break, I think it was 4 or more years ago when my youngest son and I pulled the hay trailer drums. Those can be a real bear to get off, but you made it look easy. Thanks Paul, have a nice weekend!
Thanks Dan! I'm having a serious medical issue, and unable to record much, so this seemed like the time to pull this segment out and make it a video itself.
Oh my, I hope it's nothing serious. I will be praying for you, stay strong! @@ModelA
@@Dan-qy1rg It would have been a lot more serious if we hadn't caught it early.
@@ModelA Glad you caught it early.
Great video Paul & THANK YOU AGAIN for all you do for the hobby!!!!!
My pleasure!
Funny story, when i pulled the drums off my late '31 coupe, I just had to give them a couple taps and slight prying. Came right off.
Breaking news! Paul breaks the hubs free and cleans the brakes! Now everyone break dance! 🎵
Oh no!
Hi Paul 👋 IN answer to your question my shoes are he original type riveted shoes, and the drums are cast. I also started the process for ordering that removal tool. Thanks for the tip my friend 🙂
Yes Paul I have seen a Model A Took Kit. Remember I sent you a little book about tools. I happen to have all the tools that were used in the tool kits. With the exception of a C-3 Jack and I sod this. I even have proper original tool bags and instruction books for my cars. I do not want all the instruction books. The only tool that I really use is the crank, this is especially useful to set the timing. Now about eight point sockets, they are used on square nuts and bolts. Better than a twelve point socket is one with six points. I won't argue, I think wrenches sized to fit the nut are better than a crescent wrench.
That was you!! The user name didn't register. THANK YOU!!! I used that book recently to record a video for a new guy who just bought his first Model A. Now he is teaching a seminar for his club on what he learned. Your gift has far reaching impact.
a Model A 's sound is .... only to itself. My Dad had an A400 it was awesome we would have the windows up and the top down.... depending on my Mom's comfort..... haha ... ooh the stories... A's are fun cars.
Great video, Paul! Made better with the use of the adjustable wrench and your one- liners and antics! It’s so nice having the right tools for the job.
Adjustable wrench ALWAYS fits! Right?
I used one today!
Me too!!
@@ModelA I always called them an adjustable hammer.
Great edit.
Just had an epiphany… You were here in Kerrville two years ago. Which was a great push for my newfound Model A rescue. Sorry I missed you. We also have the deuce gathering annually, which is cool too. We had a guy here with over 300,000 miles on his(hotrod) 32. It was his high school Hot Rod.. We did still have a lot of Model As at that show too.
I need to find a good U of YT On replacing differential gears… also good source for gears and bearings.
Sorry I missed you in Kerrville. You going to Ruidoso?
Good info. 👍
Greetings from Sweden
The Mitchell drum puller looks alot easier to use than our big heavy 3-legged drum puller :)
It's pretty sweet.
Didn’t you do a same video with that puller before?
I’m so happy the brakes are in good shape.
Yes. See description.
Great video Paul 👍 Very timely I might add as I'm going to be doing a full brake job on my Fordor this coming week. Have a Great Day my friend.
Excellent!! You going with stock woven shoes, or bonded type? Cast iron or steel drums?
Probably not worth mentioning because it's just one car, however in the dealership I've worked at we would always water spray the wheelhouse and wheel and drum/rotor assy before putting a wrench on it. Also an approved dust mask for protection from asbestos. God only knows whats behind the drum of an old car. I've never used an adjustable wrench to tighten an axel nut, however after a couple of trips around the town I retighten them. Even at 100lbs initial torque they can seat themselves and be a bit loose. OfCourse they're a lot harder to break loose next time.
No asbestos in Model A brake components, so no worries. But that was good thinking for those old asbestos brakes!
thanks for your birthday youtube clip[
Great stuff. Lookin' sharp light weight!
Thanks! Severe kidney problems.
@@ModelA Paul, I'm so sorry it's a health issue and not a good workout routine. Lots of water!
@@elosogonzalez8739 I was retaining water. Lots of water. Was drowning in my own tissues. So I need to measure how much water I drink.
@@ModelA I hope your getting the proper medical treatment. Wish you well.
@@elosogonzalez8739 Well, my wife is a nurse, so I get nagged into doing the right thing.
Good Saturday morning. Thank you as always, especially for the refresher and breaking things up to make it easier to find. ~ Chuck P.S. - couldn't help but notice the video in the background. Just got to rewatch it last Sunday.
Thanks! When I recorded this 2022 segment, it was the weekend right after the video was broadcast on MotorTrend TV. I had it on loop so I could watch it in parts while working in my own shop.
@@ModelA that had to be cool. I realize you’re a little more used to fame the most of us, but that still had to be a pretty neat feeling.
@@charlesdalton985 I am NOT famous! Definitely not. Regular guy here, and that's the way I like it.
You may not be famous to the world but you are to us Model A enthusiasts. Thank you and Model T for your videos. 🙂
@@williamarwood7737 Thank you! I was trying to figure out how to state it, and you hit the nail on the head!
Good video. I made a couple if thise pullers about 20 yrs ago from one a friend brought back on his yearly trip to Florida. It looked like a factory made puller but had no name or number to identify it.
I see one of the coments mentioned the torque Les Andrews gave in his book. It us importaant to have them tight. I've taken quite a few axels apart and if they are not tight enough it damages the key as well as the key seat. Not only in model As but Chevs and others. Especially the right rear which is the natural power side. I recheck mine a few hundred miles after I've had it off for any reason and about every couple of years after that just to make sure. You probably do to. Axels are expensive. The sad thing is I've seen more axels that weren't tight enough than were. Also a problem that I've seen on T Fords as well. Almost any axel that has a keyed taper fit. I actually found that problem on my Gravely commercial 12 convertable tractor. Cought it in time but I'm always suspicious of any tapered keyed axel now. Keep your wrench handy and pull hard. Looking forward to your next video.
Yep! I check mine every year when I do the pre-touring season checkup. Les' book says to torque to 100 ft./lbs, and that's a bit too tight in my opinion. I have watched a lot of club members strip the axle threads doing that. I just get them dang tight, just like they did at the factory. If you see the archive footage, the guys on the assembly line putting rear axles together are using a wrench like a non-adjustable crescent wrench, and just torquing by feel. They slap the wrench with their pal, to sneak up on the cotter hole, just like I do. No torque wrenches to be seen anywhere. And, you're spot on about too loose causing damage. Seen that plenty of times.
cool old video Paul
New video still in production. But it's a winner!
So refreshing to be able to buy US made items!
YES!! I am proud to say, my Model A's have NO Chinese parts on them. Not as long as I'm alive.
Plus the Mitchell’s are fine folks. Their gem, the Mitchell overdrive unit.
THANKS PAUL.....
Old F-4 2 Shoe🇺🇸
Live long & prosper, olde friend of A....
You as well, my friend.
Thanks!🎂
Thank you, Richard!! My brother!!!
thanks for sharing the video. Im looking forward to touring info.
You bet!
“You don’t need special tools”…probably true, but a Mitchell Hub Puller certainly helps!
Absolutely!! My hypocrisy knows no bounds. Hahahaa!!
It is a good video and your idea of pulling segments from past videos really makes things more searchable. Looking at today’s video it also struck me that buried in some past episode is also great advice on how and wear to jack a Model A…that would also serve the community well to rehash as a separate video.
@@KK-TO Thanks!!
Thank you for this video Paul
Thanks! Haven't seen you around for a while. You OK?
@@ModelAYes sir thank you. I have been watching and commenting on Tina's videos from you and her and restoration my model a
I have a 1930 and I have tried to remove my rear and no go so inspected the front and looked like new, I'm going to try again but don't want to break anything, I tried pretty hard the last time.
The rear end is fairly easy to remove, but you HAVE to follow the steps in proper order. This video may help- ua-cam.com/video/fKRHYlwR7eU/v-deo.html
Tanya Harding... HAHA hey Paul if I may... do what you will .... without acknowledging the critics ....... thanks for your videos as it brings back fond memories of my Dad. And I'd like to be your neighbor but then you'd be using my tools....hahahah anytime
I'd be borrowing your weed whacker and returning it broken too.
Great videos and info . Well done as always
Thank you!
Make it look easy. Thanks
It IS easy! Thankfully.
Tonya Harding !!! :)
Thank you paul.!
Those persuading tools are OK to use as long as your name is not Nancy.
TRUE DAT!!! Hahahaaa. Poor Nancy...
Do you have a video on shock absorbers?
Yes
I think your old tool works better. Looks like theyre trying to build a better mouse trap.
Perhaps. The new puller is a lot more gentle.
The model A book says to torque that axle nut to 125ft/lbs. Is that true or is just tight and alighned with the cotter pin hole good enough?
If I tell you what I think, a bunch of self-proclaimed "experts" on the web forums will trash me. The correct answer is anything over 90 ft.lbs. + find the next hole.
Paul: I agree it is nice to have an adjustable wrench in your tool box, but it is much nicer to use the proper sized wrench on nuts when working on your A. What is the nut size that holds the rear drum on? I seem to remember it is a 7/8th. In my traveling tool box I carry wrenches up to 1 1/8". Have I ever needed the larger sizes? Well no but I think that I should be prepared if my car should stop while I am away from home. One more thing, is you can take your '28 drum and have a recess turned in the end so it will take a fiber seal just like the later ones. Thanks for your video David Adair. P.S. You will find out over time the proper sized wrench is much easier and does not round off the corners of the nuts. You should take care of those old parts because you cannot always replace them with the same quality. d
Thanks for that. I have never ever rounded off a nut on a Model A with an adjustable wrench, but have with a 8-point socket. Have you seen the tool kit that came with the Model As from the factory? No sockets. But there is an adjustable wrench and pliers. Even Henry Ford said that is all you needed. My goal is to show that newbies don't need to have an expensive set of tools to keep a Model A running. Dazzling someone with an expansive set of tools will deter many people.
Very nice tool. For newer cars, we use a 10lb slide hammer. Have fun.
Might be a newbie question but...Do you not need to "seat" the rear, like we do on the front, because of the taper fit. If not, is there a torque you use to make sure they are tight enough?
The rear hubs and the front hubs are very different. The rears are a metal to metal, hub on axle shaft flat looong taper contact that doesn't move. The fronts have two bearings with races and a very short taper with lots of variables.
A guy wants to know why there are two sets of brake shoes , or I'm seeing double
Do you ever use electric tools on the cars?
Only when buffing paint.
Quick question is that Coupe a Deluxe ? Thanks
Yes
@@ModelA thank you stay warm & dry you all have more weather headed your way!
I have a 1931 Tudor undergoing full restoration and the builder indicated I need replacement hubs and rear brake drum assemblies. Can you explain how you determine if salvage assemblies are worth utilizing? Regards, Jim
They are all rebuildable. That's how I do it. Video coming soon. The hubs and drums are the big factor when deciding to reuse or go new. Lately, good hubs have been rare, so I started just buying new. If you buy the hubs and drums together, some of the parts suppliers will press the studs and turn them for you too. Then, just bolt them on and go!
Lately the parts suppliers have been out of stock on hubs and this has resulted in a delay in completing the chassis work by 8 months. I pray that we can complete this 2+ year restoration this summer.
@@jameswagner9356 If in a jam, used rebuildable hubs shouldn’t be difficult to find. The caveat being, you really want the cast iron drums versus the steel drums. The cast drums are much more fade resistant, and this can be important if you’re traveling in mountainous terrain at more modern speeds.
I’m in Maryland. If you are within driving distance, I may have a serviceable set which you can have. With present day shipping rates combined with their hefty weight, I don’t believe it would be cost effective to ship.
@@jameswagner9356 I’m going to back track a bit on after thought. I used the term rebuildable hub and drum assemblies. There are a few potential hub defects which might not be readily apparent to the untrained eye and will render them junk. There is a very specific technique for removing and pressing in new studs. If the job was previously botched, the stud holes can be oversized or the hub flange warped - junk. I have one hub where someone welded the studs to the hub to prevent them from turning when mounting and tightening the lug nuts - argh.
I'm located in Illinois but my restoration shop is in Virginia. Might be easy to swing by Maryland when I stop out to drop off fenders.
Good morning Paul!
I noticed that you didn’t torque the Axel nuts. I 🤔 I think Les’s book has you torqued the rear hubs to 100+ foot pounds which I do. Is that necessary? To get that torque can be challenging.
Steve
Love your videos
Steve
I did torque them! You didn't see me palm-slapping the calibrated crescent wrench? I did it the exact same way they did at the factory. Only difference was I wasn't smoking a cigarette at while doing it. Hahaa!! You booger.
@@ModelA Smoking a cigarette ??? That’s only half of the equation !! In old time auto garages, gasoline was the high power cleaning solvent of choice. ( I lived it ) One needed to be smoking a cigarette while having an open pan of gasoline under the part being cleaned, and nonchalantly brushing away with a parts cleaning brush.
Gasoline wont ignite from a cigarette. Its safe
@@myrlstone8904 And grease in your hair. HAhahahaha!!
@@hansosl That is true. But, why did everyone freak out when I used the shop vac to clean the inside of the gas tank?
Why do you not use a torque wrench to tighten up the axle nut?
Any reason you wouldn’t just use a slide hammer on 3 of the wheel studs?
I don't have a setup like that.
What's with the TANYA HARDING allusions? As I recall, she used a tire iron or jack handle.
Good stuff. If I may ask, how did you loose the weight?
Severe kidney problems. Easy!
this has reminded me to check my brake pads on my fordoor. I got a question how does one diagnose issues with the engine breaking. I feel like there's an issue with mine. in first gear when i let off the gas the car stops dead. is that normal? ive given up on trying to fix the timing and would like to work on the other major issue.
It's great to see Gandalf, made me smile. Thank you.
It is such a cool car brought back from the dead. It drives SO nice!