I did want to take a moment to thank you for these amazing “how to” videos. I really missed you while you were away, so I just wanted to let you know how much you are appreciated. Thank you!!
Hi Bill. Yet another victory for the 'scooch-meister'. There should be an 'OO gauge repairman of the year' award for you for services to model railways. Keep it up matey as your channel is an education for us all! 👍
Bill. If you consult the OED, you'll find the word is 'SCOOCH' and not 'scoosh', as there is no such word as 'scoosh' in the English Language! Take it from me, a graduate in the English Language at Oxford. A future apology for your poor command of the English language is accepted! 😀
I add my thanks for the excellent presentations of such useful content. I’ve been doing repairs too for many years and the only thing that beats experience of working on your own models is the viewing of such a diverse range of models, as you have done. I’ve now proudly joined the much vaunted ‘schoosh (or ‘schooch’) Club. My problem was a source of supply. In the Uk fellow modellers can turn to ‘Screwfix’ (Just a Happy Customer). Your tip to use the ‘commercial grade’ of superglue where applicable plus ‘tee cut’ on commutators have both proved so helpful. Thanks for sharing all your experience with us Dr. T🚂
To Capybara88. You're entitled to your belief but show me where I can find an OED with the word 'scoosh' instead of 'scooch'. As I'm typing this reply, I am looking at the entry in my OED and Bill's description of the word's meaning is correct, but the spelling is S-C-O-O-C-H. Now, I have just consulted the online OED and it clearly states: No exact match found for 'scoosh' in English. Check it out for yourself. That's TWO apologies I've got to look forward to. 😀
You are right about these Ringfield motors being better of build and design than the later ones - as one of your other commentators has pointed out, they were, I believe designed and manufactured by Fleischman. I have a Hornby/Triang Brit dating from the 1970s with this type of motor in it - when I rebuilt it I needed a new endplate that carries the brushes and they were in very short supply - the problem I found was that the nylon insulation of one of the brush holders deteriorates. Additionally they are a bit difficult to convert to DCC. I did manage it eventually and at present it is running well despite its age! Keep up the good work OOBill - always enjoy your presentations - by the way I've also now got a 'manky' brush - essential for servicing.
Hi Bill, I cannot help but think that this engine has been built up from 2 or more engines. The engines with the early valve gear that this one had the tender permanently fitted and wired to the loco and took all its power from the engine driving wheels Plus all 6 tender wheels originally had traction tyres. You can see the leftover from this by the middle tender wheel on one side still having its traction tyre while the outer ones do not. Another giveaway is that the early engines with this valve gear to the best of my knowledge were only released as BR 45192. When the LMS 5112 engine was released the valve gear was changed to the correct style and had the engine power coupling that you now have on it. It is still a lovely engine and I have converted several engines to be fitted like this in the past. So again an older engine gets to live again..... :)
Great video. Very clear. Did you do anything about the engine wipers to resolve the stalling on points or did you just rely on the motor service and the removal of the middle traction tyre to complete the job?
Lovely job, as always, enjoy your vids as it help me to feel competent to look at a couple of old engines that I have been given by a neighbour to see if I can fix them . . nothing lost if I screw it up !!! QUESTION: Would really like to know which cleaning spray you use as it's best to use a tried and tested one eh !!! ??? Chers and please keep on doing what you do so well x
I wonder if copper grease would be a good alternative to powerlube 🤔 As I understand it the first silver seal motors were basically a copy of The Fleischmann mechanism. Maybe the Germans got a bit shirty and Hornby changed the design later. As for electrical and pick up issues. I solved them by soldering fine wires to the rear of a fixed part of the valve gear on each side and then hard wired the loco to the tender. It worked great. Did the same to my 9F’s. On the Black Five I even tried to motorise the loco by cutting away some of the weight. Basically it was a modified loco drive chassis block to which they’d added a bit of extra casting which I sawed out. You can then put a cog on the rear axle and drop in an X04 motor. I remember I used the motor and gears from the turntable motorizing kit! I was about 12 I think, but it never ran very well (getting the gears to mesh properly was beyond me). In the end I reverted to the original tender drive mechanism even though I hate them on principle. It just doesn’t seem right to me to have a loco being pushed around by its tender. I was well upset as a lad when I discovered Hornby was doing everything with tender drive. They even converted the old Triang Britannia. I couldn’t see the point, maybe they were just cheaper to produce.
Copper grease isn't a lubricant it's an anti sieze compound. Great for stopping your cars wheels from sticking to their hubs but I wouldn't want it anywhere near a model locomotive.
Hornby railroad is the cheaper version(with more basic models) of the rest of the Hornby range. Over the years there have been other variations of Hornby, like the Silver Seal models you see here
@@lauriepocock3066 Not necessarily. Often Railroad models are re using older tools that Hornby acquired over the years, or can make on the fly. Just because Hornby release a models doesn't necessarily mean that they'll release a more basic version. However, I don't know whether if a model is retooled, they may release the old tool as a railroad version
Would you have a cylinderblock for a R2097 County class locomotives County of Gloucester hornby part number is x8525 as I tried Peter spares with no luck and I tried ebay with no luck it the Black one with the red lines .if not you would you have any I Dear were I may get one thank you
I did want to take a moment to thank you for these amazing “how to” videos. I really missed you while you were away, so I just wanted to let you know how much you are appreciated. Thank you!!
Hi Bill.
Yet another victory for the 'scooch-meister'. There should be an 'OO gauge repairman of the year' award for you for services to model railways. Keep it up matey as your channel is an education for us all! 👍
As a fellow-Scot I can confirm that it's actually "scoosh" (a splash or squirt of liquid). 🙂
Bill.
If you consult the OED, you'll find the word is 'SCOOCH' and not 'scoosh', as there is no such word as 'scoosh' in the English Language! Take it from me, a graduate in the English Language at Oxford. A future apology for your poor command of the English language is accepted! 😀
@@platformten5958 You're completely wrong.
I add my thanks for the excellent presentations of such useful content. I’ve been doing repairs too for many years and the only thing that beats experience of working on your own models is the viewing of such a diverse range of models, as you have done. I’ve now proudly joined the much vaunted ‘schoosh (or ‘schooch’) Club. My problem was a source of supply. In the Uk fellow modellers can turn to ‘Screwfix’ (Just a Happy Customer). Your tip to use the ‘commercial grade’ of superglue where applicable plus ‘tee cut’ on commutators have both proved so helpful.
Thanks for sharing all your experience with us Dr. T🚂
To Capybara88.
You're entitled to your belief but show me where I can find an OED with the word 'scoosh' instead of 'scooch'. As I'm typing this reply, I am looking at the entry in my OED and Bill's description of the word's meaning is correct, but the spelling is S-C-O-O-C-H.
Now, I have just consulted the online OED and it clearly states: No exact match found for 'scoosh' in English. Check it out for yourself. That's TWO apologies I've got to look forward to. 😀
Great video thanks for sharing, I've got one of these,so now I can tackle mine, thanks for the tip about the draw bar and the traction tyre, J
I'm sure I'm not the only one I'd watch any vid you made on repairing locos.... or you layout ... thanks again an enjoyable vid .
If you ever decide to do merch. You should have a t-shirt with "Lets give it a skoosh!"
Also, "Let's take it to bits!!"
Fantastic repair job on the Black 5 locomotive and a wonderful video, always love watching these repairs.
You are right about these Ringfield motors being better of build and design than the later ones - as one of your other commentators has pointed out, they were, I believe designed and manufactured by Fleischman. I have a Hornby/Triang Brit dating from the 1970s with this type of motor in it - when I rebuilt it I needed a new endplate that carries the brushes and they were in very short supply - the problem I found was that the nylon insulation of one of the brush holders deteriorates. Additionally they are a bit difficult to convert to DCC. I did manage it eventually and at present it is running well despite its age! Keep up the good work OOBill - always enjoy your presentations - by the way I've also now got a 'manky' brush - essential for servicing.
I've a variety of sizes of internal in external circlip pliers. They are not expensive. Always handy to have.
So have I. Somewhere....
Hi Bill, I cannot help but think that this engine has been built up from 2 or more engines. The engines with the early valve gear that this one had the tender permanently fitted and wired to the loco and took all its power from the engine driving wheels Plus all 6 tender wheels originally had traction tyres. You can see the leftover from this by the middle tender wheel on one side still having its traction tyre while the outer ones do not. Another giveaway is that the early engines with this valve gear to the best of my knowledge were only released as BR 45192. When the LMS 5112 engine was released the valve gear was changed to the correct style and had the engine power coupling that you now have on it. It is still a lovely engine and I have converted several engines to be fitted like this in the past. So again an older engine gets to live again..... :)
Another fine repair video you make it look easy. I am sure they will help me with my repairs.
Always good to see a loco restored to prior glory
Hi Bill, Barrie Davis has a video of the fleishman type motor the history and everything to do with hornby black five.
Hi Bill I have a Hornby class 91 with stiff Gers can you please help me with it please 🙏 😢
Another good one, Bill. Cheers, Jim L
Great video. Very clear. Did you do anything about the engine wipers to resolve the stalling on points or did you just rely on the motor service and the removal of the middle traction tyre to complete the job?
Lovely job, as always, enjoy your vids as it help me to feel competent to look at a couple of old engines that I have been given by a neighbour to see if I can fix them . . nothing lost if I screw it up !!!
QUESTION: Would really like to know which cleaning spray you use as it's best to use a tried and tested one eh !!! ??? Chers and please keep on doing what you do so well x
You legend, you. I love you, man.
It's possible that the tender wheels back-to-back being too close would account for hesitancy over points, as well.
I wonder if copper grease would be a good alternative to powerlube 🤔
As I understand it the first silver seal motors were basically a copy of The Fleischmann mechanism. Maybe the Germans got a bit shirty and Hornby changed the design later. As for electrical and pick up issues. I solved them by soldering fine wires to the rear of a fixed part of the valve gear on each side and then hard wired the loco to the tender. It worked great. Did the same to my 9F’s.
On the Black Five I even tried to motorise the loco by cutting away some of the weight. Basically it was a modified loco drive chassis block to which they’d added a bit of extra casting which I sawed out. You can then put a cog on the rear axle and drop in an X04 motor. I remember I used the motor and gears from the turntable motorizing kit! I was about 12 I think, but it never ran very well (getting the gears to mesh properly was beyond me). In the end I reverted to the original tender drive mechanism even though I hate them on principle. It just doesn’t seem right to me to have a loco being pushed around by its tender. I was well upset as a lad when I discovered Hornby was doing everything with tender drive. They even converted the old Triang Britannia. I couldn’t see the point, maybe they were just cheaper to produce.
Copper grease isn't a lubricant it's an anti sieze compound. Great for stopping your cars wheels from sticking to their hubs but I wouldn't want it anywhere near a model locomotive.
I heard from Barrie Davies they changed to the inferior tender drives because they accidentily broke the toolings to make the Silver Seal ones.
@@oobill
Thanks for the tip!
First class job 👍
How many workers leaning on the engine shed fence before you break out the gaffer's "Oi, back to work!"?
The gaffer is aff sick wi covid...
@@oobill Ah, while the cat's away......
Will Hornby ever stop using those Ringfield motors?????
And you don't even write down where things go, impressive skills.
It doesn’t make sense to have a traction tyre on an unpowered tender wheel. It looks like that wheel has been replaced at some time…
hi there. First time watching your videos. I was woundering what is the cleaner you are using?
WD40 Contact Cleaner.
Good job
Great videos. Please can somebody explain the differnt between Hornby and Hornby Railroad? are there other lines that they have made?
Hornby railroad is the cheaper version(with more basic models) of the rest of the Hornby range. Over the years there have been other variations of Hornby, like the Silver Seal models you see here
@@TheAntisocialTrain when Hornby release a new model do they release a railroad version as well and if so would they have the same engine?
@@lauriepocock3066 Not necessarily. Often Railroad models are re using older tools that Hornby acquired over the years, or can make on the fly. Just because Hornby release a models doesn't necessarily mean that they'll release a more basic version. However, I don't know whether if a model is retooled, they may release the old tool as a railroad version
Would you have a cylinderblock for a R2097 County class locomotives County of Gloucester hornby part number is x8525 as I tried Peter spares with no luck and I tried ebay with no luck it the Black one with the red lines .if not you would you have any I Dear were I may get one thank you
Sorry no. Just keep looking on ebay for a spares or repairs model.
That ringfeild motor is acutely a fischmann copy from 1973 Hornby copied fischmanns motor design in 1973
you need circlip pliers Bill! Machine Mart
Somewhere..in the dark spider infested mess in my shed I have some....
In the cupboard, with beware of the tiger on it 🐯😂