1) Coolant Anti-Spill Filler Kit: USA: amzn.to/30Pdo3s Canada: amzn.to/3H61B0k 2) Radiator Cap: USA: amzn.to/35Vumw9 Canada: amzn.to/3oyXYID 3) Coolant Reservoir Cap: USA: amzn.to/3hgv781 Canada: amzn.to/3kHcjRY 4) Universal Coolant: USA: amzn.to/3hdlWp8 Canada: amzn.to/3kDyCbl 5) Coolant Expansion Tank USA: amzn.to/3coSIRT Canada: amzn.to/3njrC5c The Filler Kit we use is available on Amazon BUT sells out frequently, here is a link to it if you want to see if it is available: amzn.to/3mtjj5R VIDEO BY YOU WRENCH
Thanks for the GREAT video!! Wife and I have a 2015 Chrysler Town and Country that was overheating. We had the thermostat replaced 4 months ago at the dealer and of course the main warranty just expired. Dealer couldn't even take the car in for a month to diagnose the issue. For about $100 I bought a new thermostat, radiator cap, coolant, and coolant funnel kit. Excellent instructions, got it done right the first time. I'm handy but not a car guy. Thanks again for the fantastic video instructions!
Excellent explanation and video. Thank you very much. I changed my coolant this past Friday and on my test drive the engine wanted to overheat. After watching your video I realize I missed some critical steps.
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Thanks! I knew you have made already one video of this which im about to perform in my van, 450 the mechanic wanted, with your awesome explanation, i will tackle it in a couple hours or so. Keep up this amazin work sir!!
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If anyone is wondering how to use the kit ... Once you purchase it, you match the top with adapter and it creates a seal on the radiator like if you had the original top, (they are labeled with letters)then you put cone on and start adding coolant this do exactly what you see on the video
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great stuff. I've changed my coolant twice already in a period of 3 months according to this perfectly explained procedure. I am too lazy to do the flush and wonder whether there's too much distillied water in the system, so did it twice on my 2017 DGC with a proper coolant, so I guess I can call it a flush:)
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Fantastic video. Not only this one, but the rest of your videos on your channel. Near perfection my friend. One question… What is the normal temperature that a Town & Country 2015 needs to show on the dash board? Thank you.
Our 2016 Grand Caravan shows at 5/8 reading when going up hills when hot outside.... Normally, just under 1/2. I think I'm going to change antifreeze/coolant at 85K miles. OAT coolant.
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Thank you very much, your video was very helpful. It made the coolant change very easy. I felt very confident doing this job. I just completed the coolant change on a 2017 Caravan. Thanks
Excellent - glad to hear that it went smoothly for you and that we were able to help you out. Hopefully you saved yourself some serious $$$'s along the way too! Thank you for your support! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our UA-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on UA-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Very good video: has the speaking of a teacher. A little too long, some of the coolant shots cood be edited for brevity. Thoro, very useful before i do my coolant change. Thanks.
Thanks you so much this help me out lots some one doing something with antifreeze on TikTok can’t remember want it was I want to make sure my was filed up in my dodge grand caravan and I had put to much and iam not that smart but smart enough came across your video this one and went under my van we’re you said to look to drain antifreeze if you need to drain it I trued it and help me out drain it enough we’re took extra antifreeze out and saved me from having and problem down the road iam going to give video a like and subscribe to your channel you rock
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Fantastic. Quick question that I cannot see in the comments. When you get ready to fill the coolant, do you need to fill the reservoir first or do you just make sure that is properly leveled when you are done?
Excellent, hope it goes smoothly for you! The light is a Sealey LED360, which is an amazing work light. They are from the UK, and I have yet to find anything to match it in the USA/Canada (unfortunately!) --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our UA-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on UA-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Hi from Canada, great video :) I just bought a 2014 Dodge Grand Caravan with approx. 233K kms on it Done so far: -front brake pads replaced -oil/filter changed -new battery/alternator -checked for leaks/topped up liquids (no apparent leaks) -spark plugs seem to be in good nick -TIPM-IPM box and fuses seem to be ok (clean looking, did not pull any fuses yet) To do list: -air filter (just removed the old one FILTHY) -New radiator cap (thanks to this video) -pull fuse for rear wiper (not going now but did work when I test drove the van, DOH) if fuse OK then not sure? -Radiator flush (hopefully easier now that I've watched this) ... I suspect that there is also debris & contamination in the rad, so thank you I will get more distilled water and flush out as much as I can before I refill with premixed coolant. **Would you use a "cleaner product" to add in with coolant?** if so, in with: old coolant prior to changing (let sit and do it's job before flushing), with new coolant or after once fully changed? **ANYTHING ELSE** you recommend I check?* Thank you.
Thanks for the great video. When and how the coolant level in reservoir get back to normal between Max and Min? Is it automatic procedure? Or we need to add it up?
Thank you! Yes, for the final filling level you need to ensure first of all that the level is correct at the end of the process inside the radiator. So, once you know that is correct (like in this video) you can check the reservoir. As long as it is over the minimum mark you are good to go! You can add a little more if you want. If it's below minimum and the radiator level is definitely good then definitely add some so it sits happiuly somewhere between MIN and MAX. But during this process the radiator level is the one to ensure first of all is correct before you worry about the reservoir. Do that at the end. Hope that helps! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our UA-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on UA-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Question: I did everything according to video and for the most part it went as in the video. But When the thermostat opened, I put the heater in high and I did not get any heat at all. You mentioned it is a possible air lock. What is it and how is it fixed? thank you
Hi to everyone.I will be glad to receive any help.I have a temperature arrow jumping on the cluster. I've already changed the thermostat, checked the pump, checked the patency of the radiator. All of the above works, there are no air plugs either, the stove warms well. But the arrow still jumps smoothly up and then down.The antifreeze in the system was also replaced. When I measured through ELM, the device showed me that with such jumps the temperature rises from 102 to 111 degrees Celsius. Then the fan turns on and the temperature drops again to 102. And so in a circle.I read that the maximum temperature at which the fan should turn on is 106 degrees. Everything works in the system, but these temperature jumps and arrows clearly show a malfunction. From my assumptions, it remains only to think that this may be due to a malfunction with the temperature sensor. Tell me who understands this, do my assumptions are correct? Can the temperature sensor create this problem? Dodge Grand Caravan 2017 SE.
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So I finally got around to doing this. It ended up being kind of a nightmare! I followed your instructions as best I could but when it came time to running the engine and allowing the thermostat to open, the coolant in the funnel never emptied into the system. I left it running for some time and eventually, the coolant in the funnel began aggressively bubbling/boiling and spat out all over the place. Needless to say i was upset and was wondering what had I done wrong? I shut the engine off and let it settle then I finished up as per your instructions. My vehicle seems fine now but do you know what went wrong? Also, at what point should I have filled the reservoir?
Yes, that kind of sounds somewhere near right. Once filled, the coolant in the funnel will sit at a level (ideally you want to get the level as low as possible because the level will rise, hence we removed some extra coolant in the video to get the funnel level lower before starting the car). Yes, it can take a while for the coolant to get to full temp and the thermostat to open as the car is only idling (it would open much quicker during driving), it will take at least 5 minutes, maybe 10 depending on ambient temp etc. Once it opens it's a little dramatic, as you can see in the video as it glugs quite a bit, but it should not have spit out all over the place as it should draw in the coolant (unless the level was very high maybe?) It sounds like you may have had a slight air lock if this part of the process was excessively messy, just a guess!? For the reservoir, it's not too important to fill when doing the process as the system is open and you are actively adding coolant, so you can just leave it to the end of the process and top up to the relevant level. Hope that's of some help, it doe snot sound like you did anything incorrectly, but sounds like you may have had a slight airlock or set the coolant level a little too high in the funnel. But hope the job went well otherwise and you're back on the road! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our UA-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on UA-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
@@YouWrench Yeah, before starting the truck, I made sure the coolant was basically at the same level it was when you did it. I definitely noticed the thermostat opening a couple times and the level in the funnel rose and fell. It never emptied into the radiator like in the video so I continued to wait. After the thermostat opened for probably the 5th time then it started to violently bubble out. I panicked and shut the engine off and the remaining coolant in the funnel emptied into the radiator. I then topped it off and closed it. I did spend more time squeezing the top radiator hose to get air bubbles out. Maybe the system was already quite full? That would explain why the funnel didn’t empty into the radiator at first. Anyway, it’s been several days and the truck is running fine, no gurgling sounds and the heat and temperature is good. So all in all, I think the job was done, albeit a bit messy. Can you explain to me what airlock is in terms of the cooling system? Thanks so much for replying and helping. Love the vid! Really helped!
yeah the directions dont mention bleeding the system like most systems..The engine bĺeeda itself via radiator cap and air comes out the top of the plastic thing
Yea I have the same issue except it likes to overheat extremely easily. Every so often I add more coolant because sometimes it would bubble but it wouldn’t do anything.
No need, you should check it at the end of the process and top up as required to the correct level. Even better is to let the engine fully cool (overnight for example) and then check the level in teh radiator is looking good, and then top up the reservoir as required. Hope that helps!👍 --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by hitting the SUPER THANKS option below the video on UA-cam, or by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you SUBSCRIBE to our UA-cam channel. 3) Please LIKE our video's on UA-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
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Hey there! No, not yet. Maybe in the future! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our UA-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on UA-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
I have had nightmares with my van, I changed the thermostat, upper hose, radiator cap and I already did all this procedure with the same tools you used, in the end I filled the reservoir up to the maximum line, the problem is that I see that the reservoir fills up more and more is this normal? The temperature remains good but I am already a little scared since when the level in the reservoir begins to rise a few days it begins to overheat
So leaving some of the old coolant in the engine block and heater core doesn’t really hurt anything? Even though the anticorrosive properties of the old coolant have expired? Mixing with new coolant will renew the properties of the old coolant? Just curious as I want to do it right, thanks! Great vid btw.
No, it's not an problem unless you know you have an issue with the old coolant (usually contamination etc). You can never get it all out. If you want to get as much out as possible (or if the old stuff is contaminated) then you do the process 2-3 times using just distilled water, and then a final one with your coolant mix. This reduces the concentration in the sytem with each 'flush', but will never remove every trace of it, but pretty close!! But as a general rule, yes it's not an issue to leave a small amount in the system as this will get 'concentrated' into the new. But if it is something that concerns you, you can do the flush process for peace of mind. --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our UA-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on UA-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
@@YouWrench great! Thanks for replying. My coolant isn’t contaminated and the method you showed in the video will suffice. I went to advance auto to purchase the funnel kit and they have it there for $50! What a rip off. I found one on Amazon for $26 and now I’m just waiting for it to arrive. Can’t wait to refresh my truck’s coolant!
@@ActiasLinnaeus There is actually a link in the video description to the loest priced ones on Amazon, here are the links again: Coolant Anti-Spill Filler Kit: USA: amzn.to/3A0R4AC Canada: amzn.to/3CptDkx
@@YouWrenchyeah, I did want the one you had in the vid. Unfortunately, that particular one is unavailable right now, for me. Must’ve sold them all out!
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To minimize the mess draining old coolant could you attach rubber or plastic tubing to the drain spout? Would the coolant disintegrate or melt plastic or rubber?
Indeed you can, it's covered in the video at 3:40. No, the coolant would be unlikely to damage a plastic or rubber tube. --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our UA-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on UA-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
You can use almost any size hose. I used a large tube that was much larger then the nipple to direct the flow over the frame. Taped one side to frame to temporarily hold it there. Anything plastic or rubber is fine. I used the bottom of a flexible funnel.
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I just changed my thermostat and started a flush with distilled water, it took a very long time to get all the air bubbles out and I could see steam coming out of the funnel (I have the same funnel as you). When I didn't see any more air bubbles, I turned off the van. But then AFTER I turned off the van, the level rose really high and was bubbling violently. Then it went down a bit. Is that normal? Also, it seemed that there was still quite a bit of coolant in the system and it's a pinkish colour. I'm assuming that there will still be enough coolant left that the water will have some colour?
Yes, that can happen, but it will usually happen pretty much immediately after shutting off the engine, not several minutes later (as it will start to coll pretty quickly)? The level will fluctuate like this as the thermostat opens and closes as you can see in our video, and yes it can in theory happen as the engine is shut off, but it will be very soon afterwards. Yes, the colour you are seeing in your flush is normal, that will be the old coolant that's left in the system mixing with your new flush water. This is why you are doing the flush, to get all of the old stuff out, so that sounds like it's working perfectly. Also, water is MUCH more susceptable to boiling (100 degrees c) than coolant so it reacts differently. hence your bubbling was a little more 'violent'. When you do your final fill with actual coolant, you likely won't experience that again. Hope that helps :-) --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our UA-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on UA-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
Now, do you have to use the bleeder valve? I've always, regardless of the car having a bleeder valve or not, filled the reservoir to max, and radiator. I then turn the car on, along with heat, and keep filling up radiator, until it stops falling. I just wait for the bubbles to stop, and heat is blowing, and put the cap on. Is using the bleeder valve actually necessary? Thanks!
It's normally best to use the bleed valve on the thermostat. This allows the engine coolant compartments to fill with coolant, and it's that coolant that will open the thermostat when it gets the to correct temperature. Otherwise you could have an air lock. It should come eventually either way, but by opening the bleeder valve you ensure there is immediately enough coolant inside the engine to operate correctly. This process was done using the Dodge Workshop Manual. Hope that helps!
So to flush, I'm just using distilled water and doing this process twice or something? I have a 2016 Dodge Grand Caravan and it has the P0128 code so I need to replace thermostat (no symptoms, though). I figure I can let the coolant drain like in your video, and when it's all drained, then replace the thermostat. Because we bought it as is last week at 197,000 and I have no idea if the coolant has ever been changed, I figure doing a flush would be the safest thing to do as I don't know the history. Then after the flush, I'll drain it all out again and then add the coolant. One other question... should I change the thermostat before or after the flush? What would be best?
Hey there! Yes, if you want to do a flush to try and get as much of the old fluid out as possible, just run this process once or twice using just distilled water. Remember it will heat up quicker than coolant. I would recommend that you drain the system first of all, then change the thermostat (we have a video for this ua-cam.com/video/UKtnyxDzjOY/v-deo.html), then do your first flush process using the distilled water, then second flush (if required), then final one will be filling with coolant. This is because you really want to ensure you have a working themostat during the flush and coolant filling process! When doing the coolant fill if it is not pre-mixed (i.e. concentrated) then mix it a little heavier than normal, example if it is usually 50/50 water/coolant then add 45/55 water/coolant as there will still be plain distilled water in the system and the extra coolant mix will help ensure the dilution ends up just about right. Hope that helps! www.paypal.me/youwrench --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our UA-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on UA-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
@@YouWrench thank you for being so detailed! It makes sense now that I would want to change the thermostat first to ensure I have a working thermostat for the whole process. 😅 One more question. You mentioned about a second flush if required. How do I know if it's required? If the water still looks dirty?
Yes, if you had some spillage into the engine bay and the smoke is coming up from the engine bay (and you didn't have any smoke before!) then yes this is most likely the spillage burning off, and this should not last all that long, and should not reappear once initially burnt off. It has a distinct smell too. Let is idle for 10 minutes and it should stop. Try and see where it is coming from, and if there is any there you can clean up with a paper towel to help speed it along (be careful of hot or moving parts of course). Best of luck! --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our UA-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on UA-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
@@YouWrench Thankyou! The smoke did stop after a little while and everything seems to be running smoothly. I really appreciate this video. It helped allot!
One easy way to refill the radiator fluid or when it hot and have fluid to fill. Keep cap off, start the van after safely release the pressure if hot. To easily refill without the burping time, restart the van and fill the fluid in radiator cap hole and some time when the fluid is wanted come out, pause on refill and just restart in refilling until it won't allow any more fluid! Typically 2 jugs of radiator in the engine and system! Once you are refilling, place radiator cap on securely and you are finished!
No, not the wrong coolant. Don't get too hung up on the color ;-) --- To help support us (for both you and others reading this) there are a few things you can do: 1) Donations both needed and welcome! We cannot operate You Wrench without the support of people like you! You can donate by PayPal - just go to www.paypal.me/youwrench 2) Please ensure you subscribe to our UA-cam channel. 3) Please Like our video's on UA-cam (by clicking Like!) 4) Please help spread the word, the more people who know about us the better! Add links to our video's in forums, let people know about us. Thank you for your support!
@@YouWrench question. i have 2013 ram cv. I changed out altanator and had to release coolant today. Went to the shop and had to choose between orange and green. I didn't remember what coolant color came out. I filled it with green. After researching orange is made for the ram. Green is for older models. So now I'm thinking I may have orange and green mixed. I read if u mix it can cause sluggish chemical reactions. So now I need to flush out the coolant again tomorrow and use orange. Does this sound correct?
1) Coolant Anti-Spill Filler Kit:
USA: amzn.to/30Pdo3s
Canada: amzn.to/3H61B0k
2) Radiator Cap:
USA: amzn.to/35Vumw9
Canada: amzn.to/3oyXYID
3) Coolant Reservoir Cap:
USA: amzn.to/3hgv781
Canada: amzn.to/3kHcjRY
4) Universal Coolant:
USA: amzn.to/3hdlWp8
Canada: amzn.to/3kDyCbl
5) Coolant Expansion Tank
USA: amzn.to/3coSIRT
Canada: amzn.to/3njrC5c
The Filler Kit we use is available on Amazon BUT sells out frequently, here is a link to it if you want to see if it is available: amzn.to/3mtjj5R
VIDEO BY YOU WRENCH
Lifting the front end will help the air get air out better. Cheers
Your videos, specifically for the Dodge Caravan are invaluable! I've saved hundreds of dollars doing the maintenance myself, thank you so much!
Thanks for the GREAT video!! Wife and I have a 2015 Chrysler Town and Country that was overheating. We had the thermostat replaced 4 months ago at the dealer and of course the main warranty just expired. Dealer couldn't even take the car in for a month to diagnose the issue. For about $100 I bought a new thermostat, radiator cap, coolant, and coolant funnel kit. Excellent instructions, got it done right the first time. I'm handy but not a car guy. Thanks again for the fantastic video instructions!
Excellent explanation and video. Thank you very much. I changed my coolant this past Friday and on my test drive the engine wanted to overheat. After watching your video I realize I missed some critical steps.
Thank you, much appreciated! Glad we could help you out :-) www.paypal.me/youwrench
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Thanks! I knew you have made already one video of this which im about to perform in my van, 450 the mechanic wanted, with your awesome explanation, i will tackle it in a couple hours or so. Keep up this amazin work sir!!
Thank you so much for your support! We hope the job goes smoothly for you, and you save yourself a stack of cash $$$!! Thank you again!
Absolutely the best video I've seen for this process. Thank you so much.
Thank you for saying so, it's genuinely appreciated, and glad the video was helpful for you!! www.paypal.me/youwrench
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If anyone is wondering how to use the kit ... Once you purchase it, you match the top with adapter and it creates a seal on the radiator like if you had the original top, (they are labeled with letters)then you put cone on and start adding coolant this do exactly what you see on the video
Thanks for sharing your tip 👍
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great stuff. I've changed my coolant twice already in a period of 3 months according to this perfectly explained procedure. I am too lazy to do the flush and wonder whether there's too much distillied water in the system, so did it twice on my 2017 DGC with a proper coolant, so I guess I can call it a flush:)
Great video. Saved me a good amount of $ and learned how to do another task in the service calendar.
Glad that were were able to help you out and save you money along the way. Thank you for your support...
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His tutorials are awesome 💯 I love it
Thank you!! 👍
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How much coolant is expected to do drain from the cooling system like that? Together with rear heater it has 15,4L of coolant.
Fantastic video. Not only this one, but the rest of your videos on your channel. Near perfection my friend.
One question…
What is the normal temperature that a Town & Country 2015 needs to show on the dash board?
Thank you.
Our 2016 Grand Caravan shows at 5/8 reading when going up hills when hot outside.... Normally, just under 1/2. I think I'm going to change antifreeze/coolant at 85K miles. OAT coolant.
Great video with a lot of good instruction. Thanks!
Thank you, much appreciated!! www.paypal.me/youwrench
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Thank you very much, your video was very helpful. It made the coolant change very easy. I felt very confident doing this job. I just completed the coolant change on a 2017 Caravan. Thanks
Excellent - glad to hear that it went smoothly for you and that we were able to help you out. Hopefully you saved yourself some serious $$$'s along the way too! Thank you for your support!
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Damm, when that coolant started rising in the funnel I would've thought it had a bad head gasket. Thanks
Very good video: has the speaking of a teacher. A little too long, some of the coolant shots cood be edited for brevity. Thoro, very useful before i do my coolant change. Thanks.
Friend, thank you for sharing your knowledge. Great tutorial and video. Much appreciate the side notes and points to keep in mind.
Great video, thanks, saved me a few hundred dollars!
Thank you for your support 👍
Thanks you so much this help me out lots some one doing something with antifreeze on TikTok can’t remember want it was I want to make sure my was filed up in my dodge grand caravan and I had put to much and iam not that smart but smart enough came across your video this one and went under my van we’re you said to look to drain antifreeze if you need to drain it I trued it and help me out drain it enough we’re took extra antifreeze out and saved me from having and problem down the road iam going to give video a like and subscribe to your channel you rock
Why is your coolant green? My 2012 caravan calls for Mopar hoat which is red/pink
Not necessary 100% my friend
Some other companies use the green color for HOAT. As soon as it’s HOAT, the color doesn’t matter.
Chrysler HOAT is pre Chrysler 2013. 2013+ is OAT..DO NOT MIX
Hi buddy. I really like your video.Your instructions are perfect 👌. Please make more videos. God bless you.
Thank you! We intend to continue making video's provided we get good support from our viewers. Thank you again!
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Fantastic. Quick question that I cannot see in the comments. When you get ready to fill the coolant, do you need to fill the reservoir first or do you just make sure that is properly leveled when you are done?
Should you worry about air in the system if only flushing out fluid from the expansion tank when opening the red plastic plug?
Awesome video will tackle this project shortly just wondering for a link to the cool green light you use please
Excellent, hope it goes smoothly for you! The light is a Sealey LED360, which is an amazing work light. They are from the UK, and I have yet to find anything to match it in the USA/Canada (unfortunately!)
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@@YouWrench thanks for the response
can you do a video on how to remove(old) and install new oil dipstick please on a 2013 dodge caravan .... mine broke in half
Hi from Canada, great video :)
I just bought a 2014 Dodge Grand Caravan with approx. 233K kms on it
Done so far:
-front brake pads replaced
-oil/filter changed
-new battery/alternator
-checked for leaks/topped up liquids (no apparent leaks)
-spark plugs seem to be in good nick
-TIPM-IPM box and fuses seem to be ok (clean looking, did not pull any fuses yet)
To do list:
-air filter (just removed the old one FILTHY)
-New radiator cap (thanks to this video)
-pull fuse for rear wiper (not going now but did work when I test drove the van, DOH) if fuse OK then not sure?
-Radiator flush (hopefully easier now that I've watched this)
... I suspect that there is also debris & contamination in the rad, so thank you I will get more distilled water and flush out as much as I can before I refill with premixed coolant.
**Would you use a "cleaner product" to add in with coolant?**
if so, in with: old coolant prior to changing (let sit and do it's job before flushing), with new coolant or after once fully changed?
**ANYTHING ELSE** you recommend I check?*
Thank you.
Thanks for the great video. When and how the coolant level in reservoir get back to normal between Max and Min? Is it automatic procedure? Or we need to add it up?
Thank you! Yes, for the final filling level you need to ensure first of all that the level is correct at the end of the process inside the radiator. So, once you know that is correct (like in this video) you can check the reservoir. As long as it is over the minimum mark you are good to go! You can add a little more if you want. If it's below minimum and the radiator level is definitely good then definitely add some so it sits happiuly somewhere between MIN and MAX. But during this process the radiator level is the one to ensure first of all is correct before you worry about the reservoir. Do that at the end. Hope that helps!
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Are you located in the Toronto area? Do you service other people's caravan's?
Thank you, very helpful video, greetings from Europe
Question: I did everything according to video and for the most part it went as in the video. But When the thermostat opened, I put the heater in high and I did not get any heat at all. You mentioned it is a possible air lock. What is it and how is it fixed? thank you
Raise the front of the vehicle, open the rad cap and rev the engine till hot.
Hi to everyone.I will be glad to receive any help.I have a temperature arrow jumping on the cluster. I've already changed the thermostat, checked the pump, checked the patency of the radiator. All of the above works, there are no air plugs either, the stove warms well. But the arrow still jumps smoothly up and then down.The antifreeze in the system was also replaced. When I measured through ELM, the device showed me that with such jumps the temperature rises from 102 to 111 degrees Celsius. Then the fan turns on and the temperature drops again to 102. And so in a circle.I read that the maximum temperature at which the fan should turn on is 106 degrees. Everything works in the system, but these temperature jumps and arrows clearly show a malfunction. From my assumptions, it remains only to think that this may be due to a malfunction with the temperature sensor. Tell me who understands this, do my assumptions are correct? Can the temperature sensor create this problem?
Dodge Grand Caravan 2017 SE.
Sup mate, we had that exact problem with a 2016 and it turned out to be a blown head gasket
Did you use the proper antifreeze….what was issue if fixed?
Does the radiator cap leak regularly ie without previously removing?
Outstanding job. Well done. Thank you.
Thank you :-)
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Didnt i see the old coolant as orange and you put in green? If its a caravan doesnt that call for the orange such as Dex-cool?
NEVER put Dexcool in Chrysler that is for GM and can gum up the works mixing that
Thanks! This was very helpful.
Glad we could help out :-)
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awesome! thank you! liked and subscribed!
Glad we could help, and thank you for your support!
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How long does it take to fill up the radiator and also I still have nothing in my reservoir
thank you for the upload
Thank you!
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Anyone know how much antifreeze you will need to replace this partial flush? Don't want to go grab four bottles when I only need two
My coolant is pink / purple. Why is this? Is this the color from factory?
im havjng a heck of a time getting the bleeder valve open. Did you use a tool?
Flat head screwdriver
Good job Brother.
Thank you :-)
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Note: On my 2016 T&C nothing came out of the open radiator bottom drain until I opened the radiator cap.
So I finally got around to doing this. It ended up being kind of a nightmare! I followed your instructions as best I could but when it came time to running the engine and allowing the thermostat to open, the coolant in the funnel never emptied into the system. I left it running for some time and eventually, the coolant in the funnel began aggressively bubbling/boiling and spat out all over the place. Needless to say i was upset and was wondering what had I done wrong? I shut the engine off and let it settle then I finished up as per your instructions. My vehicle seems fine now but do you know what went wrong? Also, at what point should I have filled the reservoir?
Yes, that kind of sounds somewhere near right. Once filled, the coolant in the funnel will sit at a level (ideally you want to get the level as low as possible because the level will rise, hence we removed some extra coolant in the video to get the funnel level lower before starting the car). Yes, it can take a while for the coolant to get to full temp and the thermostat to open as the car is only idling (it would open much quicker during driving), it will take at least 5 minutes, maybe 10 depending on ambient temp etc. Once it opens it's a little dramatic, as you can see in the video as it glugs quite a bit, but it should not have spit out all over the place as it should draw in the coolant (unless the level was very high maybe?) It sounds like you may have had a slight air lock if this part of the process was excessively messy, just a guess!? For the reservoir, it's not too important to fill when doing the process as the system is open and you are actively adding coolant, so you can just leave it to the end of the process and top up to the relevant level. Hope that's of some help, it doe snot sound like you did anything incorrectly, but sounds like you may have had a slight airlock or set the coolant level a little too high in the funnel. But hope the job went well otherwise and you're back on the road!
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@@YouWrench Yeah, before starting the truck, I made sure the coolant was basically at the same level it was when you did it. I definitely noticed the thermostat opening a couple times and the level in the funnel rose and fell. It never emptied into the radiator like in the video so I continued to wait. After the thermostat opened for probably the 5th time then it started to violently bubble out. I panicked and shut the engine off and the remaining coolant in the funnel emptied into the radiator. I then topped it off and closed it. I did spend more time squeezing the top radiator hose to get air bubbles out. Maybe the system was already quite full? That would explain why the funnel didn’t empty into the radiator at first.
Anyway, it’s been several days and the truck is running fine, no gurgling sounds and the heat and temperature is good. So all in all, I think the job was done, albeit a bit messy.
Can you explain to me what airlock is in terms of the cooling system?
Thanks so much for replying and helping. Love the vid! Really helped!
yeah the directions dont mention bleeding the system like most systems..The engine bĺeeda itself via radiator cap and air comes out the top of the plastic thing
Yea I have the same issue except it likes to overheat extremely easily. Every so often I add more coolant because sometimes it would bubble but it wouldn’t do anything.
excellent job!
Should I fill the coolant reservoir first before I start filling the radiator and then start the engine
No need, you should check it at the end of the process and top up as required to the correct level. Even better is to let the engine fully cool (overnight for example) and then check the level in teh radiator is looking good, and then top up the reservoir as required. Hope that helps!👍
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How bad is it ?
I added the wrong antifreeze fluid
Arv and home fluid
Nice, thank you very much
Thank you!
Glads we could help :-)
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هاHello sir, do you have a video showing the replacement of the oil valve compressor
Hey there! No, not yet. Maybe in the future!
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I have had nightmares with my van, I changed the thermostat, upper hose, radiator cap and I already did all this procedure with the same tools you used, in the end I filled the reservoir up to the maximum line, the problem is that I see that the reservoir fills up more and more is this normal? The temperature remains good but I am already a little scared since when the level in the reservoir begins to rise a few days it begins to overheat
Sounds like blown head gasket
So leaving some of the old coolant in the engine block and heater core doesn’t really hurt anything? Even though the anticorrosive properties of the old coolant have expired? Mixing with new coolant will renew the properties of the old coolant? Just curious as I want to do it right, thanks! Great vid btw.
No, it's not an problem unless you know you have an issue with the old coolant (usually contamination etc). You can never get it all out. If you want to get as much out as possible (or if the old stuff is contaminated) then you do the process 2-3 times using just distilled water, and then a final one with your coolant mix. This reduces the concentration in the sytem with each 'flush', but will never remove every trace of it, but pretty close!! But as a general rule, yes it's not an issue to leave a small amount in the system as this will get 'concentrated' into the new. But if it is something that concerns you, you can do the flush process for peace of mind.
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@@YouWrench great! Thanks for replying. My coolant isn’t contaminated and the method you showed in the video will suffice. I went to advance auto to purchase the funnel kit and they have it there for $50! What a rip off. I found one on Amazon for $26 and now I’m just waiting for it to arrive. Can’t wait to refresh my truck’s coolant!
@@ActiasLinnaeus There is actually a link in the video description to the loest priced ones on Amazon, here are the links again:
Coolant Anti-Spill Filler Kit:
USA: amzn.to/3A0R4AC
Canada: amzn.to/3CptDkx
@@YouWrenchyeah, I did want the one you had in the vid. Unfortunately, that particular one is unavailable right now, for me. Must’ve sold them all out!
Thank you for this great video.
Thank you :-) www.paypal.me/youwrench
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To minimize the mess draining old coolant could you attach rubber or plastic tubing to the drain spout? Would the coolant disintegrate or melt plastic or rubber?
Indeed you can, it's covered in the video at 3:40. No, the coolant would be unlikely to damage a plastic or rubber tube.
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You can use almost any size hose. I used a large tube that was much larger then the nipple to direct the flow over the frame. Taped one side to frame to temporarily hold it there. Anything plastic or rubber is fine. I used the bottom of a flexible funnel.
great details thank you
i need to remove the plug the front of Radiator and cleaning wire clearner
Is there a way to get the air bubbles out without the funnel?
Typically you raise the front of the vehicle, remove rad cap rev until engine up to operating temp. Bubbles get pushed out to highest point (rad cap)
Awesome 👍😎
Thank you :-) www.paypal.me/youwrench
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Anyone know if this is the exact same for Ram 1500 Pentastar?
I just changed my thermostat and started a flush with distilled water, it took a very long time to get all the air bubbles out and I could see steam coming out of the funnel (I have the same funnel as you). When I didn't see any more air bubbles, I turned off the van. But then AFTER I turned off the van, the level rose really high and was bubbling violently. Then it went down a bit. Is that normal? Also, it seemed that there was still quite a bit of coolant in the system and it's a pinkish colour. I'm assuming that there will still be enough coolant left that the water will have some colour?
Yes, that can happen, but it will usually happen pretty much immediately after shutting off the engine, not several minutes later (as it will start to coll pretty quickly)? The level will fluctuate like this as the thermostat opens and closes as you can see in our video, and yes it can in theory happen as the engine is shut off, but it will be very soon afterwards. Yes, the colour you are seeing in your flush is normal, that will be the old coolant that's left in the system mixing with your new flush water. This is why you are doing the flush, to get all of the old stuff out, so that sounds like it's working perfectly. Also, water is MUCH more susceptable to boiling (100 degrees c) than coolant so it reacts differently. hence your bubbling was a little more 'violent'. When you do your final fill with actual coolant, you likely won't experience that again. Hope that helps :-)
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@@YouWrench you're right, the final coolant did not bubble violently! All is well with the thermostat now.
Loosened the bleed screw, just drips out, I had to remove the rad cap to get anything to drain.
Yes, the radiator cap is normally removed as part of the draining process, at 5:53 in the video. Hope hat helps!
Now, do you have to use the bleeder valve? I've always, regardless of the car having a bleeder valve or not, filled the reservoir to max, and radiator. I then turn the car on, along with heat, and keep filling up radiator, until it stops falling. I just wait for the bubbles to stop, and heat is blowing, and put the cap on. Is using the bleeder valve actually necessary? Thanks!
It's normally best to use the bleed valve on the thermostat. This allows the engine coolant compartments to fill with coolant, and it's that coolant that will open the thermostat when it gets the to correct temperature. Otherwise you could have an air lock. It should come eventually either way, but by opening the bleeder valve you ensure there is immediately enough coolant inside the engine to operate correctly. This process was done using the Dodge Workshop Manual. Hope that helps!
Worked for me.
So to flush, I'm just using distilled water and doing this process twice or something? I have a 2016 Dodge Grand Caravan and it has the P0128 code so I need to replace thermostat (no symptoms, though). I figure I can let the coolant drain like in your video, and when it's all drained, then replace the thermostat. Because we bought it as is last week at 197,000 and I have no idea if the coolant has ever been changed, I figure doing a flush would be the safest thing to do as I don't know the history. Then after the flush, I'll drain it all out again and then add the coolant. One other question... should I change the thermostat before or after the flush? What would be best?
Hey there! Yes, if you want to do a flush to try and get as much of the old fluid out as possible, just run this process once or twice using just distilled water. Remember it will heat up quicker than coolant. I would recommend that you drain the system first of all, then change the thermostat (we have a video for this ua-cam.com/video/UKtnyxDzjOY/v-deo.html), then do your first flush process using the distilled water, then second flush (if required), then final one will be filling with coolant. This is because you really want to ensure you have a working themostat during the flush and coolant filling process! When doing the coolant fill if it is not pre-mixed (i.e. concentrated) then mix it a little heavier than normal, example if it is usually 50/50 water/coolant then add 45/55 water/coolant as there will still be plain distilled water in the system and the extra coolant mix will help ensure the dilution ends up just about right. Hope that helps! www.paypal.me/youwrench
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@@YouWrench thank you for being so detailed! It makes sense now that I would want to change the thermostat first to ensure I have a working thermostat for the whole process. 😅
One more question. You mentioned about a second flush if required. How do I know if it's required? If the water still looks dirty?
If I had some coolant spillage is it normal to have some white smoke while it burns off?
Yes, if you had some spillage into the engine bay and the smoke is coming up from the engine bay (and you didn't have any smoke before!) then yes this is most likely the spillage burning off, and this should not last all that long, and should not reappear once initially burnt off. It has a distinct smell too. Let is idle for 10 minutes and it should stop. Try and see where it is coming from, and if there is any there you can clean up with a paper towel to help speed it along (be careful of hot or moving parts of course). Best of luck!
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@@YouWrench Thankyou! The smoke did stop after a little while and everything seems to be running smoothly.
I really appreciate this video. It helped allot!
One easy way to refill the radiator fluid or when it hot and have fluid to fill. Keep cap off, start the van after safely release the pressure if hot. To easily refill without the burping time, restart the van and fill the fluid in radiator cap hole and some time when the fluid is wanted come out, pause on refill and just restart in refilling until it won't allow any more fluid! Typically 2 jugs of radiator in the engine and system! Once you are refilling, place radiator cap on securely and you are finished!
Im confused it is wasn't flushed?
just drain and filled. I believe some suction device is used when flushing a coolant system...
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Ticking a little that motor has worn out rocker arms
Sounds like fuel dampers to me
@@Forged407 that is 100% rocker roller/s
using wrong coolant
No, not the wrong coolant. Don't get too hung up on the color ;-)
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@@YouWrench question. i have 2013 ram cv. I changed out altanator and had to release coolant today. Went to the shop and had to choose between orange and green. I didn't remember what coolant color came out. I filled it with green. After researching orange is made for the ram. Green is for older models. So now I'm thinking I may have orange and green mixed. I read if u mix it can cause sluggish chemical reactions. So now I need to flush out the coolant again tomorrow and use orange. Does this sound correct?