The Best Drywall Anchor Plug Inserts // Tested
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- Опубліковано 8 лип 2024
- When you can't attach directly to a stud in your wall the next best option is a drywall anchor plug insert. It doesn't matter if your hanging a new big screen TV or a piece of artwork, you want to use the strongest anchor possible while doing the least damage to the wall.
In the video I test how many pounds each anchor can hold before it fails and show what they operate inside your wall. This will allow you to decide the best anchor for any specific use.
All Anchors are 1/4 inch and using the screws supplied in the package.
Anchors Used:
-EZ Anchor
-PlasPlug
-Paulin Toggler TA Plastic Toggle Hollow Wall Anchor
-Duo Power Contractor Strength Anchor
-Hilti Nylon Anchor
The Toggle anchor wasn't shown being tested. Its meant for a outward pull, putting it into a different category. As a result the anchor needed minimal force pulling upward or side loading the anchor before it failed.
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Love videos like this where it's straight to the point and no theatrical bs.
I want to thank you for taking the time to create this very informative video. Great attention to camera angles, production value, product specification and the testing of these specs.. My wife and I stood at Lowes for 15-20 minutes discussing what we thought was the correct anchor, you video answered it all.
Thank you I’m glad it helped some one, that makes it all worth while.
@@ToolsThatBuild It helped me too ! I am searching how to fix a light on an exterior insulation of a house 😀
Straight to the point with useful real world info. Camera angles and production value are meaningless if you’re polishing a turd.
@@ToolsThatBuild #3 comes with a red tool to install it lol
@@ToolsThatBuild
ua-cam.com/video/PV3Sb77VLy4/v-deo.html
Love your style: No BS, straight to the point. Perfect.
That was super helpful!!! You took the mystery out of what is going on behind the wall and I appreciate being shown how to insert them!!!! Thank you so much!!!
Thank you for the comment I appreciate it. Glad it was helpful
Great video...but what I need to know is..
How do you repair the drywall after removal...if it creates such a big hole!!!
@@odishamilton2711 depending on which anchor you used the hole will be a different size. Push them in the hole don’t pull them out once they expand taking them out will create a bigger hole. Next you need to drywall mud the hole and paint the spot to match.
Brilliant demonstration. Thanks.
I have to say my first time using EZ drywall anchors I purchased at Home Depot and FINALLY! after years of epic failures using different products, This literally took me less than 5 minutes to hang a 50 pound mirror. (I am a 64 yr old woman) I did not have any assistance. I will never go back to using anything else. These anchors are very strong going into the wall, not wimpy and opening up before I get them screwed in like others were.
Glad you found something you like! Now your all set for future hanging.
Thank you! Got the Toggler 1/2 drywall anchor awhile ago and some didn't deploy like yours and was worried. It wouldn't have much weight on it but it's sort of reassuring it'll hold what I got
Glad it worked out for you at least somewhat!
Metal toggles are my favorite.
Exactly what I needed to know! Thank you!❤️
Great video. Thanks
Great video. FYI the hollow wall anchors usually come with a red plastic pin that you stick in first to open the wings.
Yes it’s not in the video but they were pushed with the pin. Not one deployed as they should so I tested them this way since no one can see in the wall and since they all deployed like that this is how most consumers would end up pin or no pin.
This was helpful thanks
This is great! I typically use the one that twists in. Yeah it leaves a hole but a Drywaller told me you never pull them out when patching, just push in enough to create “backing” or “rebar” when you mud. No sense pulling it out and creating more work.
Strongest one! That’s an amazing tip and would save a ton of time. Wish I had included it in the video now..
@@ToolsThatBuild Toggler anchors are made in different sizes to match different drywall thicknesses. The Toggler anchor that you used was undersized for the thickness of that drywall. I use these anchors all the time and it looks like you used an anchor size meant for 1/4-3/8th inch depth, rather than the 1/2-5/8th inch depth of that piece of drywall that you actually have. That's why that anchor did not open up properly on the backside of the drywall and failed quickly when it should have performed the 2nd best out of that group of anchors, after the metal toggle bolt.
In other UA-cam tests the Toggler anchors when properly used perform far better than how it performed handicapped in your test:
ua-cam.com/video/WhS9BtLvQ7A/v-deo.htmlm32s
You should do this test again with the appropriate Toggler anchor size.
@@dtape I agree it deployed like it was shallow, however the package clearly says 1/2” drywall on it and I was using 1/2” drywall. Any normal shopper would grab the same package and the wing would deploy the same way. It ranked third and I believe even if the company had the depth proper it would still rank third.
@@ToolsThatBuild fair enough 🤟🏼
Brilliant!
THE ABSOLUTE BEST VID, Thanks! ☺️✊🏿
Thank you
Thanks. This helped me decide ehat to use to hang a giant mirror
Thanks for this information it will be very helpful
Very helpful n exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!
Thanks hope it helps!
Thank you, very informative!
Hope it helps!
To make the winged ones work, when they are in the wall.you have to pop them out first with a little things that is normally added in the package.
Ya in the case a red push pin. I tried two full packages and none deployed properly so it was tested as is since people can’t see in their wall and it will most likely deploy like this. The pin was t shown because I had to re shoot so many times
This video helped me a lot. Thank you :)
Appreciate that
Thank you.
Did I miss something? Why didn’t you test the last metal style anchor?
Answered in the video info and several other comments. Basically it’s meant for an outward pull not side loading like the other anchors. When I tested it, it failed instantly since the only strength was the bolt on the drywall. I did a second video and showed exactly what I mean since so many people were asking. You can find the video on my channel. I did a second video showing this better, it’s now on my channel.
thank you!
Your information is good and useful
Thank you
Another decent channels after PF
Thank you so much.
Glad to help
I like the white ones with the coarse threads. I drill a pilot and let the threads grab though. Otherwise I feel like the material smooshes together to make way for the anchor, weakening it.
Ya the white ones leave the biggest hole behind once removed but I also like them. The manufacturer says to drill a small hole just enough for the tip to go into and then allow the plastic to thread into the drywall material. The threading is what gives it the strength advantage above the others.
I have to say that the one at 4:11 was improperly inserted. You have to squeeze the tip, insert it, then use the red pin 📌 provided in the package to first push the flaps out, after that you are supposed to screw in whatever you need.
Ya if you listen to the audio I talk about how none of the ones I had would deploy properly. The red pin was used but none would deploy or they just broke. The package says half inch drywall on it but it didn’t seem to have the depth to properly deploy. It wouldn’t have changed the weight it began tearing at anyway. Also since I had issues with several of the same type I tested, I kept it as is since it may deploy like that for other people anyway.
@@ToolsThatBuild I use them a lot and it was rare to me when it's not deploy
@@alexlewarex4815 I’ve also used them a lot and sometimes I think they deploy but after testing them properly I’m convinced they aren’t deploying at all. Without seeing in the wall you have no way of knowing. The pin feels like it pushes in properly but I don’t think it is.
Thank you for doing this video. I need to put 11" deep book shelves in a closet and need the strongest anchors for the front screws that are not on studs. Going to Lowes armed with your knowledge!
This was extremely helpful.. I'm redoing my closet and I used the 3rd option at first (16 of them) my clothes fell to floor 😡. Yes I have a lot of clothing..
Try using a stud finder and screwing directly into a stud. Should be able to hit a few in something as big as a closet and then any you need in addition to the stud can be done with anchors
Uh the wing style anchors I use have a yellow push stick and deploys the wings they work great!
These ones had a red push stick and didn’t deploy on multiple try’s. Even not deployed as I imagine most don’t properly deploy in the wall they still held the 3rd most weight.
The Toggler plastic wing anchors come with a little plastic push rod that is designed to be inserted into the hole and pop the wings out before you drive a screw.
Hey ya thanks I know it wasn’t shown in the video but the red push rod was used. Out of two packages 0 deployed properly using the rod. I even tried using a hammer on the red rod. They all failed. Since most people can’t see inside their walls it was tested as is, it’s most likely not to deploy for anyone. A few others have confirmed they have had no success deploying them also.
@@ToolsThatBuild Yeah, I guess they don't always work terribly well.
@@ToolsThatBuild I just used 6 of them today and they all deployed perfectly using the red plastic pin/tool. I used a hammer for each of them and could distinctly hear the wings popping out and gripping the wall. The pin also goes considerably further into the anchor confirming the wings got pushed out. Will definitely use these again for future projects.
#2 the best
❤️ Loved your video, which actually sold me the E.Z.Ancor 75 lbs, and I rushed to buy one for hanging a mirror that weighs about 40 lbs. One question, though. In your video, you screw the anchor plug all the way in, till it's flush with the wall. If so, it will leave no space for the hanging wire of the mirror. So, where would I put the mirror wire to hang? Thanks
Thank you, the anchor will sit flush with the wall but the screw in the anchor can be left sticking out to hang the picture wire on. The nice thing about the ez anchor is the anchor itself grabs the wall so the screw doesn’t need to be tightened all the way for it to still have full strength.
@@ToolsThatBuild Wow! That was a lightning-fast response, and I can't thank you enough. ❤️
What I hate about the self drilling ones is that if you mess up you can’t use the same hole in the drywall again because the structural integrity gets compromised. I’m surprised it actually is able to hold more weight because of how finicky it is.
Agreed, although re using any anchor hole will reduce the strength as they all rely on the drywalls integrity. What I don’t like is the size of the hole comparatively to the non self threaded.
Any solution for this
nice video, you should do one with buterfly strew anchor too!
Already did, my second video is up on my channel
Awesome
Very helpful. I just used a drill for the one you ranked number and it failed. Im gonna try again with a screwdriver now😣 ugh.
ya make sure you don’t over tighten that one, once it breaks the integrity is lost and as you now know it can leave a large hole behind.
Thank you... very helpful, however I have ply wood. Do all of these anchors work in 7mm ply wood or is there another anchor best to use?
You would need anchors for 1/4” or 7mm drywall. These are 1/2” anchors. As long as the depth is right then no problem but depending on what your hanging a bolt, washer and nut through plywood would probably be sufficient.
If you were looking to figure out which anchor is the best I feel we should have included the snap toggle or something similar.
Oddly enough I’m doing a second video follow up and it will be included.
Thanks. That’s helpful. With the first one, would I ruin it if I kept screwing? Is there a time to stop or can I just keep going? And if there is a time to stop, how do I know when? Thanks in advance.
The screw portion gets larger the further in you go. It will get fairly tight at the end because of this and the collar will be flush against the drywall. You can over tighten them and damage them due to it being plastic but it’s pretty obvious when it’s all the way inserted.
@@ToolsThatBuild Thanks!
The last anchor, the wings one, comes with a small plastic pin that should be used to open the wings on other side.
Correct as I have answered already the pin 📍 was used and out of two packages 0 deployed properly. Since people can’t see in their walls this is likely to be the case for them as well and therefore it was tested as is. It wasn’t shown in the video because it was difficult to re video over and over but I doubt the wings would have changed the rankings.
I was looking for this comment.
So funny that the last metal toggle anchor is one I use most even tho I hate the size hole it requires…but it’s a mystery why you pictured it but X’d it out?? 😆
No mystery it’s in the description but, it was removed because it failed instantly. The large hole was too easy to pull on and it basically held no weight. It’s designed for an outward pull not side loading as tested in the video. If it was being pulled outward it would have held up properly
what about pull strength ratings in case I want to install medium weighted ceiling fixtures such as single light pendants?
Most aren’t designed for pull ratings, the last one that was removed from the video is meant for pulling force (that’s why it was removed). Most single light pendants are hung by the electrical box screws though and wouldn’t require any inserts. If for some reason you need one the last one in the photo is the one to use for max strength when pulling
I believe the last winged anchor used was installed incorrectly. The wings are pushed out then inserted in the wall not folded in. Hope that makes sense.
According to the package the wings are folded forward then deployed with a red push pin. However each one I tried didn’t deploy properly or broke. Most people can’t see in their wall so they wouldn’t know theirs didn’t deploy either so I tested it as is. Folding the wings out was tried but also didn’t deploy properly. (The pin couldn’t push the wings past the drywall) regardless the whole package failed.
White hollow wall anchor #3: you don't fold the wings forward, instead you pull the center joint of the wings forward so they jack knife, then you insert them.
In theory it’s irrelevant as long as the Wings clear the drywall enough to deploy flat. The package says to fold them forward and use a red pin that’s included to deploy the wings. Out of two packages 0 fully deployed using the pin, it was tested as is since most people can’t see inside their walls and it will most likely not work as designed.
@@ToolsThatBuild These are my favorite wall anchors and the way I use them is to press on the sides so its twice the length going in. The screw will then attach to the furthest end and reel it in to a wings open stance as you tighten. Useless without the wings in place.
I hung my TV one night on a Dare/Bet with the white Phillips head twist , it held for 2 years at my old apartment. Everytime someone would walk past the TV I thought it would fall but never did.
Even tried to pull it off with force.
I'll never use another anchor.
Always use phillps head white anchors.
Everything else is poo poo
The problem with these tests are pull out strength is almost always far more important than the drywall shear test you used. When using anchors to support shelves the pull out strength is everything.
For sure the problem with that theory is the anchors are being used for shelves. Shelves are the only situation where the pull is levering the direction of force outward from the drywall. Any other time you are hanging something from a drywall anchor it is a downward force same as it is tested here. It would need to be a different test for shelves and pull out force as you said. That is only one application of drywall anchors and the only application where the force is far enough away from the wall where the anchor would cause outward failure. Basically these tests cover the majority of applications with only the one exception you mentioned.
@@ToolsThatBuild Absolutely I agree with everything you say. The problem is drywall anchors most often fail when loading shelves. There are very few household items that weigh 40 lbs or more that people hang on drywall anchors and the load is straight down on the screw. So I agree with you but I continue to think your testing would be far more valuable if you loaded shelves.
@@ToolsThatBuild What? You pulled upward.
@@alexapuerta correct parallel to the drywall instead of away from it
There's a twist at the end
Very cool video, thank you.
I'm wondering why you showed the metal toggle but X'd it out? Apologies if I'm just a rookie. I've mostly swapped between #4 and the metal one with the X. Using 4 for casual picture/pop holders often paired with 1 bolt in a stud, and the one you X'd out is what I used for TV mount and for 2 ceiling fans I put up in place of regular light.
Any reply would be appreciated! I'm in my 4th year now with my wife and kids, definitely learning more about fixing and fabricating things, but I know I have decades more to grow!
Hey thank you, the X’d out butterfly toggle at the end was removed from the test because it’s meant for an outward pull not side loading like these tests. I did test it but the bolt tore the drywall almost immediately under minimal load. It would however be very strong if I had tested it pulling away from the drywall as it’s designed. So it’s great for hanging from the ceiling like you said lights and fans but no so much in a wall for anything heavy.
That being said be cautious hanging a ceiling fan by anything besides an electrical box attached directly to a truss. When fans spin they can wiggle and vibrate anchors loose over time. (Could be different code wherever you live)
@@ToolsThatBuild Thank you so much! You just earned a subscriber!!
@@Alakazoro appreciate it, if there’s anything else I can help with let me know
Ohhhh. Good to know!
@@ToolsThatBuild The toggle bolts are very strong for holding TV brackets to walls but the bracket needs to be large and with 2 rows of 3 holes. 6 toggle bolts will do the job.
The toggler should have came with a red plunger to push the wings out before you put the screw in. Been using them for years, if you plunge the wings out it would have done alot better
Hey ya the red pin was used off camera but it still didn’t work. I tried several attempts from two different packages and none deployed properly. Since most people can’t see inside their wall and there is a good chance they will not deploy for them either it was tested as is. The anchors seem cheaply made and not deep enough. If you read through the other comments lots of other people have had the same issue. I did test a better toggler product on my other anchor video though.
Maybe a stupid question but is there any anchor that doesnt go through to the other side of the drywall? I'm scared of hitting plastic pipes/cables
No most drywall is 1/2 inch which isn’t thick enough to hold much weight. Most cables and pipes aren’t ran against the drywall or in range of an anchor. If your really worried most pipes are ran against a stud and most stud finders will alert you of the location of those studs and any live wires. (See my stud finder video if you need more info on that) feel free to ask if you need any more info.
Is there any such anchors for concrete paver tiles.
These are all for drywall. Use a threaded concrete insert for a paver. Just make sure the depth is correct and don’t drill too close to the edges depending on the paver or what your doing.
This ishelpfule, we are mould maker and have many kinds of Anchor Plug mould in store.
I have a question, is the screw for the anchor considered as drywall screw?
No it’s not, a drywall screw is what’s used to hold the drywall to the stud. These don’t do that in any way.
What are those and i never heard of drywall before, what is drywall ?
Why is the Toggle Bolt Anchor shown in this video and not used? I bought this for my Acoustic Panels to be hung on the Ceiling in my Studio Room and was hoping to see how it tested.
Hey for a ceiling they should work great but for this testing (side loading) it failed instantly. It’s meant for an outward pull like a ceiling not a side ways pull like these tests. In my second anchor video I show exactly what I mean.
Do these work the way the same way on old plaster from old homes as they do in modern sheetrock?
My second video covers anchors that are better for plaster I talk quickly at the end about what is needed. There is a difference in strength between plaster and drywall.
Question if you don't mind. I've built a 30 inch wide floating shelf and would like to put it in my shelf with OSB walls. Where I would like to install there are no studs. Would it be possible to use an anchor such as these? Any recommendations?
Sure you could use an anchor like these just make sure you get one that is meant for the same depth as thickness of the osb your hanging on. If you have access to both sides of the osb a bolt with two nuts would be preferable.
@@ToolsThatBuild Thank you. I won't have access to the other side of the OSB without removing/moving a bunch of stuff. My thought is if I can get something to slightly toggle and grab on the back end, that might work well. I'm most likely looking at a max of about 35 lbs.
@@PaulTomlinson should be fine then just make sure it deploys fully
I always use the drywall screw type anchor (#1) since it's rated at 75lbs per. I wonder if you can hang an led tv with wall mount bracket. 75lbs x 4
For only a 40lb tv and mount
The screw anchor was #2 but of course you can it didn’t begin failing until 142lbs on multiple tests so it would hold a 40 pound tv or anything else that weight no problem as long as it didn’t lever against the anchor/wall. Also usually with a tv mount you’ll hit one stud and then you can use the anchor for the other side which would be plenty for 40lbs.
@@ToolsThatBuild true..! also #1 it was at the end of your video. First place I mean lol
@@ToolsThatBuild also I like these anchors because it involves no hammering
I can hang things when the kids are sleeping
@@jinchoe6354 oh great point never thought about that. Nothing better then getting some work done over nap time!
What’s the best anchor to hang a full mirror from a hollow door?
They make anchors just for that. They look the same just meant for a thin door
Hello! Im hanging a 65” tv in drywall alone which would you recommend to use ?
Hello you can’t hit any studs at all? What type of mount are you using?
I would recommend checking out my other drywall anchor video on my channel, it features more commercial grade anchors that are better for large heavy TVs etc.
The only value I need to know is the pull out pounds. If I hang a uipboard or a TV its the pull out that will determine how good it will be.
Hey thanks for the feedback but thats not true. If you hang a tv the direction of pull is the same as shown in the video. The tv doesn’t louvre away from the wall pulling outward. The weight pulls downward which is the same as shown.
The trouble I've had with drywall anchors, all, is not in shear as uou testedbut in pull out. Over time the anchor/screw is worked and the hole gets loose.
What are you hanging on a drywall anchor that has a force working the screw outward over time?
@@ToolsThatBuild A towel bar sticks out from the wall a few inches which creates a moment arm pulling out. Regular use also pulls outward to some extent.
@@200932me I’ve had great results using anchors for towel bars. Which anchors have you been using? It shouldn’t loosen over time and the levering force shouldn’t be an issue for towels and leaning on jt
@@ToolsThatBuild My towel rack has 2 screws roughly an inch apart. The hook stands off the wall roughly 4 inches. It is 1 of 2. No issue with the other. Original install was February 2013. It came loose recently, not sure why but when I took it apart the bottom screw seemed ok but the top had a Hellman type plug that was loose. I’ve never had great luck with the type. This was installed by a professional crew. Not sure what pulled it loose. I’ve always found hanging stuff on drywall to be a pain. I appreciate your efforts, I’m going to give the toggle type a try.
Not sure if you mentioned it, but what was the thickness of the drywall you tested the anchors in?
Hey I didn’t mention it actually, my bad but it is 1/2” drywall. Standard thickness.
@@ToolsThatBuild so does that mean if it was thicker than 1/2" drywall it would hold longer?
@@toneygayle yes but for most of these anchors you would need different anchors meant for 3/4 or 1” drywall. It’s not standard to be over 1/2” thick in NA unless it’s a fire rated wall. All of these anchors are meant for 1/2” drywall.
That last one... you need to use the Red Push Pin to expand the wings, then screw it.
Yeah it’s been answered but the pin was used on it. Out of two packages 0 deployed properly. I had to film it so many times I didn’t end up showing the pin. Since people can’t see inside their wall and they will also most likely not deploy fully, it was tested as is.
Wouldn’t you want to try the force by pulling down for a more accurate reading since that’s what gravity will be trying to do when you hang items on drywall?
Sure you could but the direction of force is parallel to the wall, either way and would have the same failure point. Pulling down wouldn’t have changed the results.
@@ToolsThatBuild thank you for the explanation!
You used the last anchor incorrectly. I have used them to hang pretty much anything and they are great when used properly.
he missed the red pin :)
Ya I answered this a few times, the red pin was used but was not shown because they didn’t deploy properly. I ended up trying two packages and none deployed as intended. Which was tough to re video over and over. Since most people cannot see inside their wall it will most likely deploy the same way so it was tested as is.
Can the ez anchor self drilling one go in sheet rock
Sheetrock is a brand of drywall so yes it definitely can
@@ToolsThatBuild ok thank you I'm going to put floating shelves do you think it will be pretty sturdy
@@ryanlvgames4880 yes it would but it really depends on the depth of the shelf and what you plan to put on it. If your able to attach your shelf directly into a stud or multiple studs it will be stronger.
For the last anchor tested, there is a tool u use to push the wings out to engage ur drywall
Correct it wasn’t shown because it didn’t work. It’s covered in the audio of the video.
@@ToolsThatBuild you have to tap it with a hammer
@@Original_Flanno yup I know until the pin finally sinks all the way in. They still don’t deploy properly they either deploy like the video or the pin hammers the wings until they break.
@@ToolsThatBuild Possible, although in your video your anchor looks small for the drywall. They make them for 3/8 and 1/2, I've used these countless times, they have always done well for me.
@@Original_Flanno yup tried several packages all listed as the correct thickness of the drywall. Maybe a bad batch is a possibility. I have used the same brand in hollow door anchors and they deployed or atleast I think they did. But I have to rank them how they compared based on the boxes I bought at the time. I can only go off the proof in the test not based on past or others experiences.
How important is It to drill a pilot hole? I normally punch a hole with a Phillips head that’s a bit smaller than the anchor. I used this method when installing a 4 foot LED ceiling light in my garage. The fixture only weighs 4 pounds and I used two anchors on each end of the fixture. Anchors were the cheapest white ones that you push in to the pilot hole.
A pilot hole is a pilot hole, doesn’t matter how you make it whether it’s a screw driver or drill. Some inserts won’t deploy properly if the hole is too small or large but for the ones you used your fine. I think as long as your not adding weight to the light you’ll be fine.
The hollow wall anchors should have a red tool to fold the wings out. Them you insert screw.
Yes it was used it just wasn’t in the video. The anchor didn’t deploy with or without the push rod the way it was supposed to. Since the average person can’t see in their wall there is a good chance it won’t deploy for them either. This is why it was tested as is. I went through almost two full packages attempting to deploy them the way they should and they all failed.
@@ToolsThatBuild
Interesting. Never had that mich issue. Double check drywall thickness rating. Sure you did though.
Old anchors of all brands crumble and break real bad. Toss them. Dont risk.
What was the result for the last one? The metal one with an X over it?
It’s answered in the description but it failed quickly. It’s not meant to be side loaded. The bolt basically began damaging the drywall right away making it loose over and over again. The toggle that’s Xd out is meant for a outward pull not side loading so it wasn’t fair to compare it to the others. I would have had to make a different device for pulling in the other direction for it.
@@ToolsThatBuild thank you. It would have been cool to see the test anyway 😅
What wall plug shall I use for a lath and plaster wall with no available stud? Thanks
I’ll have a video out in the next week or so that’s similar to this one that will show better anchors for that application
@@ToolsThatBuild Looking forward to it! cheers.
Video is up explaining the type of anchor needed for plaster hope it’s helpful. If you have any more questions on it let me know!
Late to the party but which would be best for installing a French cleat for a floating shelf. ( I be specific Im wall mounting an IKEA Eket cube)
What’s the total weight? The shelf will support? (Keep in mind the further the weight is from the wall the more it levers on the anchor)
I did a second video testing out some more anchors and they are stronger if you want you could also check that one out.
@@ToolsThatBuild yeah that’s hard to answer as IKEA doesn’t give a limit for wall mounting since it varies on wall type.
@@ToolsThatBuild I don’t plan to put heavy stuff one these, besides like records and some nick-nacks but I still wanna be safe since I’m renting. I did catch your other video as well and it seems like the hand screw in is best but since the mounting hardware for the cube is a French cleat I’m unsure what anchor to use
@@marydavis3572 ok is the cleat long enough to hit any studs or are you relying completely on anchors?
I would use the white thread in anchor (Ez anchor) or a snap toggle by Toggler if it will be lots of anchors and no stud is available.
The anchors should be flush enough to work with the clear no problem but obviously ideally as many studs as you can hit the better.
@@ToolsThatBuild yeah I think for some i can get them on at least 1 stud since I’m mounting them in a row but not all. Also the cleat itself is less than a foot.
Thumbs up. But I wish you'd spent more than 2 seconds on the summary. All the testing methodology is great. But the bottom line is "Which of these things should I buy?" I ended up going back and forth a couple of times from the end to the detail until I figured out that the white corkscrew looking things were the best for weight but faffed up your wall.
I really appreciate the feedback. I have another video with different anchors coming I’ll spend more time explaining each one and their best uses. Thanks
Video is up hopefully the explaining is better!
Why is the toggle bolt X'd out?
The explanation is in the video description but it was removed from the ranking because it’s meant for vertical pull and when I side loaded it in the same manner as the other anchors it took basically no force to have it begin loosening tearing and failing. It’s really not meant for side hanging applications.
phew, I feel relieve that the white Toggler anchors I installed should hold. The wings on mine couldn't open with the press pin
Ya it would be ideal if they did but it seems to be a common design flaw. I tried two packages and the red pin never once deployed the wings correctly.
So why was the big "X" on the last one? A toggle bolt I believe.
Not meant for lateral pull failed right away. Longer answer in the other questions
@@ToolsThatBuild Thank you! Will read further.
You n3ed to try them in tension as well
Thanks for th3 f3edback
Do these still work if you don’t screw the supplied screw all that way down? I need to hang some heavier pictures that need to be hung on an exposed screw head
Some do some don’t, the ones that require the screw to continue screwing to deploy need to be screwed in. The ones like the white threaded one can be left sticking out and the screw put in as much or as little as needed.
Do you think the weight limits are different given you're pulling straight up on the anchor? Say you were hanging an 80lb flat-screen and mount on those anchors. Something like that would be pulling out and away from the wall, do you think that would change how much these anchors support?
Yes and no, drywall anchors aren’t designed to be pulled out on. Also hanging a tv from a drywall anchor would still pull in a downward force since it’s the weight of the tv pulling. (Exception would be a mount that extends away from the wall). The only thing that would pull outward would be something levering against a wall like a deep shelf with weight on the far end. The direction of force shown is 99% of anything hung on a drywall anchor.
@@ToolsThatBuild as a handyman I can say that wall mounted TVs act like shelf drywall failures tearing the top anchors straight out the wall flipping the tv down. I use studs every chance I get but sometimes you only get 1 stud. Flip out toggles are my go too in any instance where strength is needed or there will be exercising going on like with towel racks or toilet paper.
@@MyName-tj4zj depends on the tv mount your using, if your interested check out my 2.0 second anchor testing video it has those anchors you may find it further helpful.
@@ToolsThatBuild I disagree. I have installed about every tv mount and they all fail from the top. I watched your second video which does not address the failure point on shelves or tv mounts. You did mention it is a small screw which is true but is not the failure point. The friction/pressure against the paint/drywall holds the tv mount in place and does not allow it to slide down. Good videos even if they are not real life tests.
t anchor is ghajini arafat then has a horizontal type of sea cucumber on the right
Yes?
Why didn't you try the metal one?
I did it failed instantly, it’s not meant to be side loaded. The bolt unlike the plastic ones is against the drywall so it just tears instantly with force. It’s really meant for an outward pull. It would need a different test pulling straight outward from the drywall.
Why didn't u do the last one?
Answered in the video description
Best drywall anchor = stud
Obviously that’s true but not always an option
What if you pull out from the wall?
It would be completely different. There isn’t many applications where the force would pull out though except a shelf levering against the wall. Most applications pull upward or downward which would be the same breaking point.
If I use the studs I won’t be able to center my 70” TV in the wall 😏 would you recommend using a higher weight anchor or not?
For a 70” tv I personally would buy a different mount that has a bracket big enough to be offset so the tv is center and still hitting studs. If that’s not an option and you can’t add backing between two studs then yes a higher weight anchor is your only option but personally I wouldn’t go that route for that big of a tv. Too expensive if it fails
@@ToolsThatBuild thank you for your reply! I think I can use the studs with a different arm that can "center" it with the wall.
Why not the last style
It failed immediately. Not meant to be side load it’s meant to be pulled outward. The bolt and washer just chewed into the wall.
Snap toggle blows all of these away
Check out my second video of anchor testing. Just finished it and it has the snap toggle in it
#4 wasn’t installed correctly. It’s supposed to be hammered in and there is a small pin key that is supposed to be pushed through the center that expands the arms locking them flush behind the drywall.
Hey ya the red push pin was used. You don’t see it because I tried two packages worth of that anchor and 0 deployed correctly. I ended up filming it so many times that the whole process didn’t get shown. Since every single anchor even with the red pin didn’t deploy I tested it as is since most end users can’t see in their wall and would most likely have the same issue.
I'm 2 years late to be saying this but you didn't install the final anchor correctly. You're supposed to use the included plastic push pin to get the wings to deploy. After inserting the anchor you insert the push pin into the hole and either tap it with a hammer or push hard with your finger until it pops the wings into their spread out position. When installed correctly those anchors perform similarly to the EZ anchor. I still prefer the EZ anchor though they are in fact easier to install after all.
Hey ya it’s in the description and the other comments but the red pin was used. I went through two packs and none deployed correctly. You don’t see the pin because it was recorded so many times to try to get one to work. Since not one out of the two packages worked and majority of people can’t see inside their wall it was tested as is since it will most likely fail to deploy in real world as well.
@@ToolsThatBuild Ahh gotcha. Maybe they've improved their design since this test I've never had nore than mild issues getting them to deploy what seemed like fully but that has just been over the last year or so.
Thanks for the response I appreciate the clarification 👍🏼
This tests what can rip drywall faster
Correct the amount of force each anchor can hold out until it rips the drywall. Generally the larger the spread of the anchor on the back of the drywall the longer it takes to rip the drywall. That’s why each anchor rips the same drywall at different weights.
I watched the video and the one I needed help with wasn’t even done smh
Which one wasn’t done that you need help with? The toggle?
Why didnt u test the toggle bolt?
It’s in the description but i didn’t keep it in the video because it’s not meant for a vertical pull like the other anchors it’s meant for a horizontal pull or outward pull. The bolt. Began damaging the drywall and loosening with minimal force. It wasn’t a fair test to put it against the other ones. It would need its own video against anchors using the same direction of pull.
@@ToolsThatBuild i use toggle bolts a lot at work as an electrician they are really good for lateral load. The trick is to tighten them with an impact until they slightly dig into the back of the sheetrock. If left loose all of the load is on the bolt if tightened u have the full span of the wing holding.
You didn't even show the one x'ed out. That's the go to for me. Never had one fail.
Hey ya the butterfly toggle wasn’t shown Because it’s designed for an outward pull not a side ways pull the way it’s being tested here. It basically failed instantly because the only strength is the bolt on the edge of the drywall which loosened up with minimal force. I showed it being tested in my second drywall anchor video to give a better idea why it had to be left off the list.
What was the drill bit that was drilled in the last video!?!? On “X”!?!?
The anchor that’s X’d out?
@@ToolsThatBuild yes, because my bracket is metal and won’t break.
@@ashleynicollebartle5648 the anchor that is X’d out is a butterfly or toggle anchor. It’s meant for an outward pull not side loading like these tests. Basically it failed almost instantly because the bolt on drywall is the only strength. I did a second drywall anchor video for more heavy duty anchors and I showed exactly how it doesn’t work for this application. You can find the video on my channel.
@@ToolsThatBuild I’m trying to hang jumbo swag hooks for hanging planters
Instructions:
1. Drill a hole in the drywall or plaster ceiling just large enough to accommodate the closed wings of the enclosed toggle bolt assembly.
2. Assemble hook, wing and bolt. Insert wings through hole as illustrated. Tug lightly and tighten.
For wood ceiling, exposed beam and wood stud:
Make a pilot hole with 1/8" drill. Assemble hook and screw. Turn into hole until solid.
Rookie here... Um... Did I just watch to learn how to drill into an anchor
Regarding the DuoPower anchor, how did you insert a 1/4" (6mm) anchor into a 3/16" (4.75mm) hole?
I’m referring to the screw used in the anchor not the anchor itself. They are all the same size. The screw is a #10 it’s 3/16” diameter and 1.5 inches long. The bit used is the one included in the package of anchors and recommended by the manufacturer. I call it a 1/4 inch instead of 3/16 in the video so maybe that’s the confusion but I was trying to keep it simple to illustrate them all being the same. but they are all #10 screws being used for the anchors to keep it consistent.
The toggler (3rd anchor shown) reads 1/4” on the package same as the duopower however both are #10 screws. I didn’t want to spend a bunch of time talking about screw diameters on a anchor video as long as they are all consistent.
@@ToolsThatBuild Thank you. Great video-short and concise, and unlike others that show horizontal force which is not typical use.
@@tommyharris5817 thank you and yes I agree very few instances that horizontal force will be relevant.
Why didn't we see the 6th one??
It’s in the description, it essentially failed instantly. I have done a second video with more commercial grade anchors and included it but it failed quickly you can check the video out on my channel or the link is at the end of this video