Hello I got a question? So I have just recently started taking care of my own cephalotus plants the last 6 months or so n done great but I transplanted one of the plants n it had great roots but within a day it looked like a deflated balloon 🎈 n layed down I took everything off the roots after I took it out of the pot right after I put a cup on top for a week and pretty much lost all my pitchers due to it withering down like this but it did end up living. My question is anytime u strip the roots from media should u always bag it up afterwards to keep it from deflating like that? And also will it cause ur plant to rot if u leave it in high humidity very long like that? I no u said something about it but even the plants with roots seem to deflat even when u transplant it with a cover over it.
Definitely well explained without alot of going off track. Iv been trying to find a cephalotus to purchase and after having watched this and seeing your plates just wanted to see if u had one that you would part with? And if you have PayPal I can just send a friend some money, and you would have my payment instantly.. I figured the worst you could say is "not interested " or want way more then I can afford.. hope to to here from you
I keep my first Cephalotus outside and it's doing great so far. Making new mature pitchers. One thing however I have to worry about is the heat of the pot. I use a plastic pot and some sides can get really warm under the full sun. So I either occasionally relocate the plant or just rotate it. I don't think watering from above would cause me much problems since the humidity isn't always that high outside (but mostly not too low either) and it gets fresh air 24/7.
Lmaoooo Those bottles must be over a year old, because I Haven't drank that stuff in ages. They fit in my sink (albeit a bit folded.forced) so I can fill them up easily, and the measurements work well (1 per tray, 1 per humidifier each day, or 2 total if it runs very low).
What time of the year is best to repot them? I bought 2 young plants but they are in very small containiers. Should I repot them now? (There is almost no room in pot to grow new leaves)
Honestly, I haven't noticed any problems with repotting them at any specific point in the year, though it may help to do so during the winter months, if you notice that the growth is slowing down, so you don't lose as much growing momentum by putting the breaks on it, so to speak, in the middle of it's most vigorous season. You also probably don't want to disturb it much right before or during flowering, so if I had to pick a season, I'd say winter.
growing these over 4 decades, I have noted the plants grow, but very slow when in New Zealand spag and not nearly as hardy when grown in a peat sand or peat perlite mix. when dividing it seems the foliage will always die off but slowly return
Wow! That's quite a bit of experience! I'm a bit confused about what you mean by this, though: "I have noted the plants grow, but very slow when in New Zealand spag and not nearly as hardy when grown in a peat sand or peat perlite mix" Are you saying that they grow slowly in Sphagnum, AND that they're less hardy in Sphag, or are you saying that they grow slowly in Sphag, BUT they are less hardy in peat/sand/perlite? Divisions do tend to cause the pitchers to wilt a bit, and often the lids and shape never fully recover. It helps, when the plants have almost divided themselves, ans you just have to gently tease them apart, as opposed to slicing a rhizome and having little root structure to absorb water. I'm still on the fence about bagging divisions, but I get nervous with leaving them completely open, for the first several days, because even if we are gentle with repotting, the roots get damaged to some degree, even if it's just the tiny hairs being broken. I do notice that bagging them for too long causes them to rot, though, so I wouldn't do it for much time. That said, the pullings that I show in this video, are doing very well. I'd imagine that the humidity is pretty high, in there, even with the holes in the lid, and yet none of them have rotted. I'll have to do some experiments, once I make a bunch of divisions.
@@abugsnightmare4266 in a nut shell the plants grow better in a peat perlite sand mix almost identical to the media soil i tested along Australia's coast at Coal mine beach stretch. There are other spots i located plants under tall grass in live moss, but were not as hardy. This has shown to be correct growing them in the States, although many mixes will hold some growth. Biggest failure ive seen over the decades is in how these plants receive hydration. On a bigger note, it is always quite a bit more humid on the inside, at least thats how she describes it.....
Great video! A quick question. In your experience is it okay to divide a large plant when it outgrows a pot, or is there a specific time of year that division should be done? Any thoughts here are helpful, and thanks again for the summary on Cephs.
Thank you, Gregory! In regard to repotting/divisions, I haven't noticed too much of a difference, based on the season, but I would avoid doing it during or right after flowering, to prevent the flower from being aborted, and/or the plant from dying from excess stress, and if your plant is mature enough to flower, you may be better off not doing it right before, either (toward the end of a winter dormancy period with lower temps and a lower photoperiod), if you want it to do so. That said, I've repotted plants at various times, and they all seem to do just fine, as long as I'm gentle with them. The ones that I repotted, in this video, are all doing very well, now, as are all of the others, including the smaller ones. I'll do an update video, soon, on my page. Good luck, and feel free to reach out, if you have any more questions! -Anthony C. :) 🌱
Are u always suppose to bag a plant up like that even with roots? I had one deflat like a Balloon 🎈 after striping the roots of media. Do u suggest leaving any plant under high humidity n if so how long do u leave it before u should worry about rot.
Honestly, I don't like to bag them, as it poses a risk of rot, but my room humidity gets pretyt low sometimes, and after repotting, I tend to notice significant pitcher wilt, without the extra humidity covering, so I do it, and then try to get them out, as soon as possible, starting with poking holes in the bag, then cutting off corners, and eventually removing it altogether. I would start to acclimate them out of it, with the holes, sometime between 1 and 2 weeks, if possible, and then adjust the speed of the process according to how large of a root system the plant has. After you start to poke some holes, check on your pitcher's structural integrity every several hours, for the first few days, to make sure you aren't going to quickly.
Thanks for your response. I appreciate the help I just transplanted 1 even with a dome it was still wilting I filled all the pitchers with water and rewatered the media and when I got up after recovering it with a dome it sprung back up. It's now back to semi firm pitcher lids and leaves for now I just wondered how long it needed to be in that high humidity thanks for comments love your video btw there isn't enough coverage on cephalotus unlike some other plants so it's good there's people like u that care about these plants just like I do!
To be honest, I've never grown one in 100% peat. I've always added either silica sand, perlite, or both, for drainage, because Cephalotus tend to have rotting problems, and I don't know that peat won't encourage that by staying too wet to allow proper root oxygenation without creating anaerobic environment. Personally, , I never grow my Cephs outdoors, because they're pretty slow, and if an animal eats them, it would be years of lost time and effort, but I'm sure some climates can support them. Where do you live? What are your: -min/max temps -min/max humidity -daylight hours Also consider the risks of high wind, snow (thought I have seen pics of Cephs with a bit of frost on them, I would advise against allowing that to happen, because prolonged exposure may cause irreversile tissue damage, not to mention smothering them, if it covers them completely), hail, pests, birds, squirrel, etc.. I never grow my Cephs outdoors, because they're pretty slow, and if an animal eats them, it would be years of lost time and effort, but I'm sure some climates can support them.
@@abugsnightmare4266 max temp. 35° Min temp. Like -5° Humidity 50-80% 10-12 hours direct sunlight if i put him full sun My ceph is protected from rain, snow and so on but gets really good wind Birds actually never Attacked my carnivors and i have plenty
@@abugsnightmare4266 also i Potted my Cephalotus "german giant" in a huge xaxim-pot today with pure peat and Lots of spaghnum to Keep him cool in summer The pot is 20x24 (bit overkill) but allows for the peat to not be super wet at his roots
rec's on an LED for a couple 4in pots? is the Sansi 36w decent ..also thinking about the Barrina led tubes off Amazon..they are 24w ea @5000k. Would these be fine for Cephs?
Ceph seed is often difficult to get, because it's not very long lived, and it's also pretty fragile, making shipping slightly more challenging (the seeds are pretty soft, and they can get smashed by mail rollers), and most people just sow them, but if you are looking for some, I'd keep an eye out any time from now through May, as it should largely depend on people's lighting conditions.
Idk why but my pitchers are not staying as open as I see in photos/videos I have one that's opened up nicely and a good amount that have been formed for a while but have yet to open and my humidity is good my tap water is good but I use distilled only with my cephs and helis.. also if you have any cephs or even seeds for sale I'm also in nyc lol..
Are your pitchers full of fluid? If not, I'd try filling them, and seeing what happens. There ones that are fully closed may never reopen, but if I know that mind are usually pretty full of fluid, and im sure a good amount of that is from top watering them. I'm working on cleaning up my whole collection, and then dividing things, and taking inventory of everything, so I should have both Cephs and Helis available, as soon as that's done. Hopefully, I'll be done, by the time the weather gets a bit cooler, so they'll be safe in the mail, though I wouldn't be opposed to doing a local pickup for a sale, to avoid the shipping stress and fees. If you follow my IG and send me a message saying that you're interested, I'll remember to hit you up when I have things ready to be sold. 🙂
@@abugsnightmare4266 I'm not sure it's hard to tell with a light and I been worried about pulling the lids open.. and also I would much rather do a meet up since we're both in nyc would be easier on the plants and also pointless to mail from nyc to nyc lol, what's your ig handle?
![[UA] Team Vitality проти NAVI | IEM Cologne 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wttO1zVRTC0/mqdefault.jpg)
This is the best cephalotus video I've seen. Definitely gives any beginner confidence in growing this successfully. Good job 👏
Thank you! I really appreciate it!
-Anthony C. :)
Great info! Cephs have moved up my wish list.
Thanks! You should definitely give them a shot! Cephalotus is one of my all time favorites!
-Anthony C. :)
Hello I got a question? So I have just recently started taking care of my own cephalotus plants the last 6 months or so n done great but I transplanted one of the plants n it had great roots but within a day it looked like a deflated balloon 🎈 n layed down I took everything off the roots after I took it out of the pot right after I put a cup on top for a week and pretty much lost all my pitchers due to it withering down like this but it did end up living. My question is anytime u strip the roots from media should u always bag it up afterwards to keep it from deflating like that? And also will it cause ur plant to rot if u leave it in high humidity very long like that? I no u said something about it but even the plants with roots seem to deflat even when u transplant it with a cover over it.
Loads of info, great vid. Thank you!
brother has to make more videos
Amazing guide
Nice vid!
this is so helpful!
Thank you! I'm very happy to hear that!
-Anthony C. :) 🌱
Definitely well explained without alot of going off track. Iv been trying to find a cephalotus to purchase and after having watched this and seeing your plates just wanted to see if u had one that you would part with? And if you have PayPal I can just send a friend some money, and you would have my payment instantly.. I figured the worst you could say is "not interested " or want way more then I can afford.. hope to to here from you
I keep my first Cephalotus outside and it's doing great so far. Making new mature pitchers.
One thing however I have to worry about is the heat of the pot.
I use a plastic pot and some sides can get really warm under the full sun. So I either occasionally relocate the plant or just rotate it.
I don't think watering from above would cause me much problems since the humidity isn't always that high outside (but mostly not too low either) and it gets fresh air 24/7.
this video brought to today by ocean spray, ocean spray the families sugar drink raising your blood glucose levels to extremes for years
Lmaoooo Those bottles must be over a year old, because I Haven't drank that stuff in ages. They fit in my sink (albeit a bit folded.forced) so I can fill them up easily, and the measurements work well (1 per tray, 1 per humidifier each day, or 2 total if it runs very low).
What time of the year is best to repot them? I bought 2 young plants but they are in very small containiers. Should I repot them now? (There is almost no room in pot to grow new leaves)
Honestly, I haven't noticed any problems with repotting them at any specific point in the year, though it may help to do so during the winter months, if you notice that the growth is slowing down, so you don't lose as much growing momentum by putting the breaks on it, so to speak, in the middle of it's most vigorous season. You also probably don't want to disturb it much right before or during flowering, so if I had to pick a season, I'd say winter.
Amy available?
growing these over 4 decades, I have noted the plants grow, but very slow when in New Zealand spag and not nearly as hardy when grown in a peat sand or peat perlite mix. when dividing it seems the foliage will always die off but slowly return
Wow! That's quite a bit of experience! I'm a bit confused about what you mean by this, though:
"I have noted the plants grow, but very slow when in New Zealand spag and not nearly as hardy when grown in a peat sand or peat perlite mix"
Are you saying that they grow slowly in Sphagnum, AND that they're less hardy in Sphag, or are you saying that they grow slowly in Sphag, BUT they are less hardy in peat/sand/perlite?
Divisions do tend to cause the pitchers to wilt a bit, and often the lids and shape never fully recover. It helps, when the plants have almost divided themselves, ans you just have to gently tease them apart, as opposed to slicing a rhizome and having little root structure to absorb water.
I'm still on the fence about bagging divisions, but I get nervous with leaving them completely open, for the first several days, because even if we are gentle with repotting, the roots get damaged to some degree, even if it's just the tiny hairs being broken. I do notice that bagging them for too long causes them to rot, though, so I wouldn't do it for much time. That said, the pullings that I show in this video, are doing very well. I'd imagine that the humidity is pretty high, in there, even with the holes in the lid, and yet none of them have rotted. I'll have to do some experiments, once I make a bunch of divisions.
@@abugsnightmare4266 in a nut shell the plants grow better in a peat perlite sand mix almost identical to the media soil i tested along Australia's coast at Coal mine beach stretch. There are other spots i located plants under tall grass in live moss, but were not as hardy. This has shown to be correct growing them in the States, although many mixes will hold some growth. Biggest failure ive seen over the decades is in how these plants receive hydration.
On a bigger note, it is always quite a bit more humid on the inside, at least thats how she describes it.....
Great video! A quick question. In your experience is it okay to divide a large plant when it outgrows a pot, or is there a specific time of year that division should be done? Any thoughts here are helpful, and thanks again for the summary on Cephs.
Thank you, Gregory!
In regard to repotting/divisions, I haven't noticed too much of a difference, based on the season, but I would avoid doing it during or right after flowering, to prevent the flower from being aborted, and/or the plant from dying from excess stress, and if your plant is mature enough to flower, you may be better off not doing it right before, either (toward the end of a winter dormancy period with lower temps and a lower photoperiod), if you want it to do so.
That said, I've repotted plants at various times, and they all seem to do just fine, as long as I'm gentle with them. The ones that I repotted, in this video, are all doing very well, now, as are all of the others, including the smaller ones. I'll do an update video, soon, on my page.
Good luck, and feel free to reach out, if you have any more questions!
-Anthony C. :) 🌱
@@abugsnightmare4266 This is really helpful. Thanks so much for this information!
Are u always suppose to bag a plant up like that even with roots? I had one deflat like a Balloon 🎈 after striping the roots of media. Do u suggest leaving any plant under high humidity n if so how long do u leave it before u should worry about rot.
Honestly, I don't like to bag them, as it poses a risk of rot, but my room humidity gets pretyt low sometimes, and after repotting, I tend to notice significant pitcher wilt, without the extra humidity covering, so I do it, and then try to get them out, as soon as possible, starting with poking holes in the bag, then cutting off corners, and eventually removing it altogether. I would start to acclimate them out of it, with the holes, sometime between 1 and 2 weeks, if possible, and then adjust the speed of the process according to how large of a root system the plant has. After you start to poke some holes, check on your pitcher's structural integrity every several hours, for the first few days, to make sure you aren't going to quickly.
Thanks for your response. I appreciate the help I just transplanted 1 even with a dome it was still wilting I filled all the pitchers with water and rewatered the media and when I got up after recovering it with a dome it sprung back up. It's now back to semi firm pitcher lids and leaves for now I just wondered how long it needed to be in that high humidity thanks for comments love your video btw there isn't enough coverage on cephalotus unlike some other plants so it's good there's people like u that care about these plants just like I do!
Could i go 100% peat if i can cultivate them outside all year?
To be honest, I've never grown one in 100% peat. I've always added either silica sand, perlite, or both, for drainage, because Cephalotus tend to have rotting problems, and I don't know that peat won't encourage that by staying too wet to allow proper root oxygenation without creating anaerobic environment.
Personally, , I never grow my Cephs outdoors, because they're pretty slow, and if an animal eats them, it would be years of lost time and effort, but I'm sure some climates can support them.
Where do you live?
What are your:
-min/max temps
-min/max humidity
-daylight hours
Also consider the risks of high wind, snow (thought I have seen pics of Cephs with a bit of frost on them, I would advise against allowing that to happen, because prolonged exposure may cause irreversile tissue damage, not to mention smothering them, if it covers them completely), hail, pests, birds, squirrel, etc..
I never grow my Cephs outdoors, because they're pretty slow, and if an animal eats them, it would be years of lost time and effort, but I'm sure some climates can support them.
@@abugsnightmare4266 max temp. 35°
Min temp. Like -5°
Humidity 50-80%
10-12 hours direct sunlight if i put him full sun
My ceph is protected from rain, snow and so on but gets really good wind
Birds actually never Attacked my carnivors and i have plenty
@@abugsnightmare4266 also i Potted my Cephalotus "german giant" in a huge xaxim-pot today with pure peat and Lots of spaghnum to Keep him cool in summer
The pot is 20x24 (bit overkill) but allows for the peat to not be super wet at his roots
rec's on an LED for a couple 4in pots? is the Sansi 36w decent ..also thinking about the Barrina led tubes off Amazon..they are 24w ea @5000k. Would these be fine for Cephs?
How do I get some seed from you guys. It's imposable to get seed here in Australia.
Ceph seed is often difficult to get, because it's not very long lived, and it's also pretty fragile, making shipping slightly more challenging (the seeds are pretty soft, and they can get smashed by mail rollers), and most people just sow them, but if you are looking for some, I'd keep an eye out any time from now through May, as it should largely depend on people's lighting conditions.
@@abugsnightmare4266 Thanks heaps for the info :)
@@abugsnightmare4266 All the usual carnivorous plant retailers online are all sold out, in Australia anyway :(
Idk why but my pitchers are not staying as open as I see in photos/videos I have one that's opened up nicely and a good amount that have been formed for a while but have yet to open and my humidity is good my tap water is good but I use distilled only with my cephs and helis.. also if you have any cephs or even seeds for sale I'm also in nyc lol..
Are your pitchers full of fluid? If not, I'd try filling them, and seeing what happens. There ones that are fully closed may never reopen, but if I know that mind are usually pretty full of fluid, and im sure a good amount of that is from top watering them.
I'm working on cleaning up my whole collection, and then dividing things, and taking inventory of everything, so I should have both Cephs and Helis available, as soon as that's done. Hopefully, I'll be done, by the time the weather gets a bit cooler, so they'll be safe in the mail, though I wouldn't be opposed to doing a local pickup for a sale, to avoid the shipping stress and fees. If you follow my IG and send me a message saying that you're interested, I'll remember to hit you up when I have things ready to be sold. 🙂
@@abugsnightmare4266 I'm not sure it's hard to tell with a light and I been worried about pulling the lids open.. and also I would much rather do a meet up since we're both in nyc would be easier on the plants and also pointless to mail from nyc to nyc lol, what's your ig handle?
As beautiful as your cephs are, I just can't bring myself to take advice from someone with Jordan Peterson quotes posted in their room lol