I thank you for this video. I just sharpened eight blades utilizing your method and was immediately successful. I already owned a chainsaw sharpener and just had to remove the tooth stop in order to use it for this. I really did not want to spend the $700 to $1200 for a sharpener and thought of using my chainsaw sharpener...checked online and your video is the only one I could find in which this was done. Thanks again.
This unit is on its sale price of $89. at Princess Auto Feb 2. to Feb. 19 , 2021. I had purchased this grinder before i saw this video, but your explanation really helped. The grinder is mounted on a 4ft. by 4ft. piece of plywood. The blade is supported in 6 places with 3 inch high blocks of 2*4 leftovers. I used two five inch, left over, lawnmower wheels as bandsaw guides (left side and right side) and salvaged bearings from hard disk drives as support on the opposite side of the grinder as support for the blade. The blade layout is about the same as in your picture, but supported. It rolls very easily. I was able to sharpen the blade in less than 10 minutes. Your video helped me a lot.I hope this improvement helps you. The plywood setup is on a patio table and can easily be stored away against a wall.
Thanks. I ordered my grinder after watching your video. My nearest Princess Auto is 800 km away in Prince George BC. I ordered it Thursday afternoon and it was on my door step Friday morning. 👍😊
Your correct about which side to grind on and about deepening the gullet. I was a saw sharpener for a few years and that is exactly how we sharpen the saws for a manufacturer.
Excellent. I think I'll get another chainsaw sharpener just for the mill. I use this same sharpener all the time for my chainsaws and don't want to change settings each time for the mill. One word of advice : blow off your wet blade guides after every miling session with air to avoid that rust spot and avoid pitting which results in premature blade cracks. 👍😎👌
Thanks for the video Sir. I have a 10” WEN that is 2 years old. Original blade but doesn’t get used a lot at all. All at once it has started cutting sideways terribly bad. If I pushed it to cut 2 inches in length it would break the blade because it has already gotten so sideways. I tried adjusting the top wheel. Didn’t help. I noticed the blade was coated in what I thought was sap. I cleaned it with gasoline and got it spotless. Didn’t help. I tried to remember what the last thing I cut was and I remembered cutting a small piece of firewood and also cutting some plastic. I finally decided one of the 2 had dulled my blade. I looked closely at the blade and it made sense to me that it was dull. This is why. The blade is a wood cutting blade. I would say 50% aggressive. Sorry but I know nothing about these blades except wood cutting from metal cutting. The blade has one tooth sticking to the side and the next 2 teeth are straight. This pattern is all the way around the blade. I thought it would be tooth left, tooth right, tooth left, tooth right all the way around. But its not. So I am unsure how to sharpen it because of the pattern. If it was left, right, left, right I understand you would sharpen this one filing left and the next right etc.And the reason I say it made since to me that it was dull is because it cuts in the direction every 3rd slanted tooth is pointing. Every 3rd tooth is slanted to the right and thats the way it cuts severely. If you Sir, or anyone who might read this could give me some insight or enlighten I would be very thankful. Thanks again Friends!!
Most bandsaw blades are designed right set, no set, left set. This provides a rake style tooth in the center of the left-right to clear sawdust and wood from the center of the cut.
Butchers wax on the faces and base of the clamp would help the blade slide easier. It may not jump as much as you slide it forward because it would have far less resistance. Great job!
Thanks for this video. I don't mill much and was not too excited to shell out 1000 for a auto sharpener. I'll try this first, I ordered one from Princes auto... I think this will do me just fine. It sharpens and you see no difference with a paid sharpening. I'm down on PEI. Appreciated your honesty. If it works and the blade cuts well again good enough for me. Appreciated.
@@ERLong-ww7yn I got mine and held it on a new blade to try and get angle. When you have time. On the top angle setting what degrees are you set at? I was between 75-80.
@@ERLong-ww7yn just wanted to to do a follow up. I bought sane grinder from Princes Auto on sale. I've sharpened the same blades 3 times each now. and this is working very well for me. I appreciate your help... works well enough I'm not even going to bother with a auto sharpener. I figured if I got one sharpen per blade I'd be happy. But with three and still cutting good I'm over the moon. I have one I sharpen 4 times I'm trying in the next day or two. You saved me $ 1300. Thanks again. Have a good summer.
thanks for the useful info. I happen to have an oregon chainsaw sharpening machine. I think I will give this a try. If I can get it to work, it will save me a fortune on a bandsaw sharpening machine, and the hassle/expense of taking the bands in for sharpening.What do you use for setting the teeth?
I don't have a setter currently. I only get four or five sharpening per blade before they develop stress cracks, and in 18 years I've only had a handful of blades get a tooth badly out of set.
@@ERLong-ww7yn I have just finished sharpening my second band. The first one went slow, second one was quick by comparison once I had developed the technique. Unless one makes contact with foreign bodies in the timber, there is no reason why the tooth pitches should change. Quite correct. If I can get 5 sharpenings per blade, the savings on outsourcing the sharpening will afford me a new blade. Thanks again for your invaluable info!
Can also just do it on your normal bench grinder by hand holding the teeth to the side of stone one after another get into a good routine about 10 min per blade.
Ive had a look on Princess Auto and can you show me what angle grinder this is? I see the adjustment bench but no actual grinder? Whats the model number?
@@BK-oo1bl I know there are several similar models available through Amazon, and I think Harbor Freight sells one. They're a generic brand of grinder sold under a number of labels.
I don't, to be quite frank. I've only had a couple of blades that had teeth bent enough to require setting, and those had been damaged by hitting metal. Otherwise, if a blade is just being sharpened from being dulled, they do fine. Bear in mind, I'm only doing construction lumber.
@@ERLong-ww7yn I really liked this video and is the exact way I was hoping to be able to sharpen my blades. Thank you for this. I am wondering if you are still planning on building the tooth setter? I, like most here probably, would rather build one instead of having to spend the very high price of buying one off the shelf.
I used to use a hammer and a punch on a chunk of hardwood clamped in my vice that was for crosscut saws and handsaws. I am looking forward to seeing what you make for a saw set. Thank from Glenn.
And yet two sawmill manufacturers that I know of have copied this exact design for machines of their own. All I know is its worked well for me for twenty years.
Great set up bud. Amazing how similar that is to mine. Great mine think alike I guess. I just gave you a sub. Come check out the set I have on my channel. Great work.
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I thank you for this video. I just sharpened eight blades utilizing your method and was immediately successful. I already owned a chainsaw sharpener and just had to remove the tooth stop in order to use it for this. I really did not want to spend the $700 to $1200 for a sharpener and thought of using my chainsaw sharpener...checked online and your video is the only one I could find in which this was done. Thanks again.
I have used this exact setup now for a while and can say my own sharpened blades cut as good or even better than the new ones. Great idea !!!
This unit is on its sale price of $89. at Princess Auto Feb 2. to Feb. 19 , 2021.
I had purchased this grinder before i saw this video, but your explanation really helped.
The grinder is mounted on a 4ft. by 4ft. piece of plywood. The blade is supported in 6 places with 3 inch high blocks of 2*4 leftovers.
I used two five inch, left over, lawnmower wheels as bandsaw guides (left side and right side) and salvaged bearings from hard disk drives as support on the opposite side of the grinder as support for the blade. The blade layout is about the same as in your picture, but supported. It rolls very easily.
I was able to sharpen the blade in less than 10 minutes. Your video helped me a lot.I hope this improvement helps you. The plywood setup is on a patio table and can easily be stored away against a wall.
Sounds like a good setup
Thanks. I ordered my grinder after watching your video. My nearest Princess Auto is 800 km away in Prince George BC. I ordered it Thursday afternoon and it was on my door step Friday morning. 👍😊
Your correct about which side to grind on and about deepening the gullet. I was a saw sharpener for a few years and that is exactly how we sharpen the saws for a manufacturer.
Excellent. I think I'll get another chainsaw sharpener just for the mill. I use this same sharpener all the time for my chainsaws and don't want to change settings each time for the mill. One word of advice : blow off your wet blade guides after every miling session with air to avoid that rust spot and avoid pitting which results in premature blade cracks. 👍😎👌
Good idea. Thanks
Good vid. Look forward to more content as your able. Thank you for the vids.
Thanks for the video Sir. I have a 10” WEN that is 2 years old. Original blade but doesn’t get used a lot at all. All at once it has started cutting sideways terribly bad. If I pushed it to cut 2 inches in length it would break the blade because it has already gotten so sideways. I tried adjusting the top wheel. Didn’t help. I noticed the blade was coated in what I thought was sap. I cleaned it with gasoline and got it spotless. Didn’t help. I tried to remember what the last thing I cut was and I remembered cutting a small piece of firewood and also cutting some plastic. I finally decided one of the 2 had dulled my blade. I looked closely at the blade and it made sense to me that it was dull. This is why. The blade is a wood cutting blade. I would say 50% aggressive. Sorry but I know nothing about these blades except wood cutting from metal cutting. The blade has one tooth sticking to the side and the next 2 teeth are straight. This pattern is all the way around the blade. I thought it would be tooth left, tooth right, tooth left, tooth right all the way around. But its not. So I am unsure how to sharpen it because of the pattern. If it was left, right, left, right I understand you would sharpen this one filing left and the next right etc.And the reason I say it made since to me that it was dull is because it cuts in the direction every 3rd slanted tooth is pointing. Every 3rd tooth is slanted to the right and thats the way it cuts severely. If you Sir, or anyone who might read this could give me some insight or enlighten I would be very thankful. Thanks again Friends!!
Most bandsaw blades are designed right set, no set, left set. This provides a rake style tooth in the center of the left-right to clear sawdust and wood from the center of the cut.
Butchers wax on the faces and base of the clamp would help the blade slide easier. It may not jump as much as you slide it forward because it would have far less resistance. Great job!
Yes, it would. As I mentioned in the video, I usually clean the blades before sharpening, which alleviates the issue.
Thanks for this video. I don't mill much and was not too excited to shell out 1000 for a auto sharpener. I'll try this first, I ordered one from Princes auto... I think this will do me just fine. It sharpens and you see no difference with a paid sharpening. I'm down on PEI. Appreciated your honesty. If it works and the blade cuts well again good enough for me. Appreciated.
You're very welcome sir.
@@ERLong-ww7yn I got mine and held it on a new blade to try and get angle. When you have time. On the top angle setting what degrees are you set at? I was between 75-80.
@@andylynnpei I'm at 75, brother.
@@ERLong-ww7yn Appreciated.
@@ERLong-ww7yn just wanted to to do a follow up. I bought sane grinder from Princes Auto on sale. I've sharpened the same blades 3 times each now. and this is working very well for me. I appreciate your help... works well enough I'm not even going to bother with a auto sharpener. I figured if I got one sharpen per blade I'd be happy. But with three and still cutting good I'm over the moon. I have one I sharpen 4 times I'm trying in the next day or two. You saved me $ 1300.
Thanks again. Have a good summer.
Very well done!
thanks for the useful info. I happen to have an oregon chainsaw sharpening machine. I think I will give this a try. If I can get it to work, it will save me a fortune on a bandsaw sharpening machine, and the hassle/expense of taking the bands in for sharpening.What do you use for setting the teeth?
I don't have a setter currently. I only get four or five sharpening per blade before they develop stress cracks, and in 18 years I've only had a handful of blades get a tooth badly out of set.
@@ERLong-ww7yn I have just finished sharpening my second band. The first one went slow, second one was quick by comparison once I had developed the technique. Unless one makes contact with foreign bodies in the timber, there is no reason why the tooth pitches should change. Quite correct. If I can get 5 sharpenings per blade, the savings on outsourcing the sharpening will afford me a new blade. Thanks again for your invaluable info!
Great tip - Thanks mate.
wow thank you i will check it out
Great sharpener
Looks great! Happy new year to you and family.
Thank you, Mark. Happy New Year to you and yours as well.
Can also just do it on your normal bench grinder by hand holding the teeth to the side of stone one after another get into a good routine about 10 min per blade.
Thank you. That was helpful
Thanks great idea gonna try it
Welcome. Hope it works for you
Thank i will get one for my diy sawmil sgt rod
Thanks!
Thanks, good deal.
No tooth indexing?
Ive had a look on Princess Auto and can you show me what angle grinder this is? I see the adjustment bench but no actual grinder? Whats the model number?
If you search chsinsaw sharpener on their site it's the first item that comes up.
i searched for the attachment but couldnt find it any help would be appreciated as I need one.
What's your location, Rick?
What is the set of the back angle? I would like to know it! Greets from austria
I set it at 10 degrees. 7 degrees would be okay for softwoods. Thanks for watching.
What about tooth setting
Boa noite ?qual preç dele e vc manda pra todo pais?
Apenas no Canadá
Brand of sharpener and where did you purchase it at
It's a Power Fist purchased at Princess Auto, as mentioned in the video.
Koliko kosta za serbiju
Precio de la máquina? Dónde la venden algún número
Amazon, Log Wizard
I wish I could get that for $80. It's $149 US dollars from Princess Auto.
Watch their sale flyer. It goes on sale about every second month.
Same unit available from Northern Tool. Use their sale coupons to knock a few dollars off.
@@stevem6711 It is on sale now for $89 at Princess.
Does the head adjust to change angle on the grinder or is it 1 setting
It adjusts. To set it, I put a factory blade on and adjust the head to match the blades angle.
@@ERLong-ww7yn do they sell that in the US or do you know the ones that I have found are not adjustable
@@BK-oo1bl I know there are several similar models available through Amazon, and I think Harbor Freight sells one. They're a generic brand of grinder sold under a number of labels.
@@ERLong-ww7yn thank you
@@BK-oo1bl you're welcome
Hello can you please tell me the model of sharpener you are using. I would lime yo purchase the exact same one
Hi Michael. This one is a Powerfist from Princess Auto
Thank you sir
@@michaelflores9796 welcome
What do you do to set the teeth?
I don't, to be quite frank. I've only had a couple of blades that had teeth bent enough to require setting, and those had been damaged by hitting metal. Otherwise, if a blade is just being sharpened from being dulled, they do fine. Bear in mind, I'm only doing construction lumber.
Some all thread and nuts and a jig really simple. It's crazy how much they charge for something so simple for us to build ourselves.
Same as i used on my mill .how do set the teeth
I'm in the process of building a setter now. I'll post a video when its complete
@@ERLong-ww7yn .025 set ?
@@ERLong-ww7yn I really liked this video and is the exact way I was hoping to be able to sharpen my blades. Thank you for this. I am wondering if you are still planning on building the tooth setter? I, like most here probably, would rather build one instead of having to spend the very high price of buying one off the shelf.
@@mikechristensen9744 I'm working on a prototype. Time and a hundred other projects keep getting in my way
I used to use a hammer and a punch on a chunk of hardwood clamped in my vice that was for crosscut saws and handsaws. I am looking forward to seeing what you make for a saw set. Thank from Glenn.
Just dpesnt work unless your very llucky tooth height is never the same
And yet two sawmill manufacturers that I know of have copied this exact design for machines of their own.
All I know is its worked well for me for twenty years.
I am in Australia
The Log Wizard is available on Amazon.com but quite pricy. Timber Tuff has a model on Amazon as well for about half the price.
Great set up bud. Amazing how similar that is to mine. Great mine think alike I guess. I just gave you a sub. Come check out the set I have on my channel. Great work.
Thanks, friend