Carburettor Rebuild On My Cheap Ferrari 308 - Featuring Iain Tyrrell
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- It started with a routine carburettor rebuild on my Ferrari 308 but once again ended up with questions about the whole engine possibly needing a rebuild. Iain Tyrrell advises on this episode.. and I will be visiting him for the next one. Check out his fantastic channel below...
/ @iain_tyrrell
FULL INFLUENZO EPISODE LIST: • InfluEnzo - Ferrari 30...
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22. ua-cam.com/video/qZFRucADz5k/v-deo.html Good news.. bad news and a clue about a new car I've bought! Ferrari 308
23. ua-cam.com/video/vNvLzyUdAmU/v-deo.html My cheap Ferrari 308 does have a major engine problem...
FULL EPISODE LIST: ua-cam.com/play/PL-JmG4958QS8v5Bn2lol3bm8YQ4UNRstU.html
This actual car was my fathers about 15 years ago and was in our family for quite a lot of years, I recognised the registration number from the thumbnail. Drop me a line if you would like to know any more about the history and provenance of your car! Great to see the car again!
Ian Tyrell is one of the best things I’ve found on the internet this year. A font of knowledge and a lovely style. Great to see him helping you out 👍
I've got to agree , he could easily have his own tv show.
I feel for you Jack! but on the bright side Iain Tyrell is a mechanical genius so at least you have the best help possible ! keep your chin up im sure everything will turn out just fine 🙂 👍
You're in an abusive relationship now with a long past her prime super model.
Perfect analogy!
I went through the same kind of relationship with much younger models. I am conflicted on whether they are worth it or not.
@@UncleBucksHat Forget finances, rate it in smiles per gallon
@@Galatzo 2 Amber Heards out of 5.
Iain Tyrell is a legend...
But very costly, unless he gives this bloke a break !
@@marcryvon You have to pay for his knowledge. There aren't many about with as much knowledge and as many contacts as Iain Tyrrell. He is THE top man and for that, you have to pay through the nose.
It's better value to pay top dollars to someone who knows and fixes the issue "in no time" vs. paying someone trying to figure out what's wrong and spending a lot of time on that and maybe get it a bit better...also many times you might eventually need to go to the expert and get him to permanently fix the root cause of the issue....
The cost of knowledge! For example a visit to experienced consultant cost way more than a newly licensed one
Mr. Ian Tyrell is the way go for info, love to watch his channel, it's just pure knowledge sharing. Sure that when you get the car sorted, it will be a joy to ride.
Always remember this important rule: "90% of carburation problems are ignition-related"!
Great video, even if you got some new troubles. Iain will help. However, engine not dropping back to idle is probably on of two. You have a air leak between carbs and the inlet. Your gaskets are failing to do the job or you have overtightened the carbs and made them banjo like. Then you need to sand down the fittings to make them even. Or two, the carbs are not syncronized properly after the rebuild. So the butterflies simply do not go down evenly. The water / moist... Well I belive it is the cold garage and the stop and starting. Most Ferraris are used only in sunny weather and warm garages. Don´t panic it is not a rebuild. If you have a small head gasket problem, why not retorque the headbolts. It may have been rebuild once and that was forgotten. Cheers from Norway!
good call sometimes but not in this case (assuming Jack's description is accurate) ... when he puts load on the engine to lower the rpm it stays down if there was an air leak the rpm would just rise straight up again as soon as he disengaged the load
"Have a good Christmas" = don't call me again before then 😅
😄 he’s off on holiday to South Africa!
hahaha thought the same thing - meant in a gentlemanly way of course.
@@Number27 Lucky him. That explains it. 😁
Totally - just bring the car up and we can PX it for something that is fettled. Will give you a fair price...honest ;-)
The mayo issue could be lack of regular use over a long time. Much more condensation build up on short journeys. Take it to Scotland and back then take a look. Also analyse the sump oil.
Thermostat could also be allowing the engine to run too cold. Could be defective but many people put in low temperature thermostats in the mistaken belief that it will help prevent overheating.
I agree with majorscope. When you constantly do short trips, the engine never has the time to heat up fully and evaporate the condensation built up from a cool engine warming. Hence the appearance of water in the oil. It needs to be driven at length under stress, periodically, to eliminate the moisture buildup. As for the blow by system (tube stopped up with mayonnaise)now that its clean, I'd definitely check the PCV valve for more sludge and the air filters for possible oil blow back.
Take it on a decent trip. Lots of short trips in the English gloom is bound to have it all condensated up
Cars do not like sitting un-used for ages. Especially mid engine cars with the engine bay exposed to the weather.
Putting a wet car in the garage or under a cover will also create a ton of condensation. Same if you put a hot engine under a cover on cold day.
It's wonderful to see others pitch in to help you out. No snobs here just car guys. Good on everybody.
Wow, I love Iain Tyrrell
he's the best guy to ask about these classic cars
Absolute pleasure watching him work on classics. So completely in his element with his depth of knowledge.
These cars, they're such a labour of love! We love them, even though they constantly break our hearts!
Yes indeed!! Thanks for watching!
Not sure about the "labour of love" bit, I think it is just classic Ferrari ownership, which is why Ferrari sell new ones with a 7 year warranty. Just too many bad stories and experiences from previous owners. Older models up to the 458 are just not durable enough for occasional use...
Mr. Tyrrell joining your channel; you Sir have made it; well done.
Thanks Timothy.. he’s a great chap!!
This is a Obi-Wan Kenobi passing his wisdom to Luke Skywalker moment 😀
You will go home and re-think your life.
Always pop the cam covers when changing the timing belts on these to check that the marks on the cams to the notches on the journal caps line up. No need to use a dial wheel and gauges with 2v engines as they are far more forgiving than 4v engines, just line up the marks at PM1-4.
Once that is confirmed:
When checking total ignition advance, ‘total’ timing is only seen once all the weights and springs are fully compressed, which is at 6000rpm and up. The factory says to check for 34 degrees at 5000rpm, but the factory doesn’t say the distributor still has some more advance to go above that. These early 2v carb engines like to run 37-38 degrees total timing at 6000rpm and up, which usually translates to 34 at 5000rpm. I prefer to check and make certain the engine is getting a boatload of timing in this inefficient hemi head by even under 4000rpm, but that is incredibly challenging to set up on a distributor machine. An electromotive crank trigger system does wonders for these.
Next: carb jetting. With current gasoline and F36 emulsion tubes, every carb 308 I’ve tuned loves a 135 or 150 main jet with a 190 or 200 air corrector and 55 idle. They all have been within this range and when checking on wideband a/f meter it generally yields best a/f ratio for power with that combination, which is about 12.6:1. As an added benefit, the larger main jet will bring the main circuit a little sooner which often aids in the transition stumble from idle to main circuit.
Best- J
Fantastic reply
Why didn't you change the floats?? When you was advised to when rebuilding them??
They were on order.. now received but have other priorities right now!
@@Number27 Do you have plans to go back and fit the uprated floats Jack?
Yes, I have them now but want to get the car going right first before changing anything else
I feel your pain. I have a number of cars/bikes that give me the same trouble. You will get to the bottom of the problems I am sure. So glad also you have stayed firmly planted with your UA-cam videos. Not gone all commercial like tavarish and very sad ratarossa. Sending spannering good wishes.
@@truckpilot I LOVE ratarossa!
Great respect to Ian for being so helpful, engaged and down to earth! The quintessential gentleman.
Don’t give up on that 308! Keep it up 👍
Chin up chap, I feel your pain but appreciate you taking us on this rollercoaster ride. You will sort it and we will all share the elation with you.
what Iain Tyrrell doesnt know on classic motors......er......i saw a small note on it somewhere...oh found it...says nothing
The two best tools available to you are your cheque book and Iain Tyrrell.
Don’t be down, it’s always fun to have a project. Live through the lows and enjoy the highs!
Slow down Jack. You are in panic mode and your guesses are all over the map. Start with the idle issue - all you did was mess with the carbs so it's almost guaranteed that whatever is causing it involves that. As for the ignition timing - have you got a timing light? Start with that. Regarding the sludge in the breather you probably need to pull the cam covers off which you will want to do anyway to check your valve timing. Since Ian had mentioned it you would have been wise to have done that while the carbs were off since it would have been a lot easier but that's all water under the bridge now. Just adopt the attitude that you love tinkering with your Ferrari and the experience will be much more enjoyable. As Ian said, you're going to love it once you've sorted out all of the deferred maintenance issues.
Are you losing water from the cooling system? They probably just have bad ventilation from factory. Maybe try fitting a catch can.
And with the carbs/ idle, its common to have a high idle after cleaning carbs as the gunk that built up in the runners used to seal the butterflies is no longer there so you get air leaks, A lot of people recommend leaving that area alone.
Hang in there Bud, just love the videos!!
Thank you!!
I can't help wonder if you're creating worry for yourself because you're off the end of your knowledge? The pipe which had mayo in which you cleaned out and now it's got mayo in again? Didn't you talk about this pipe or one connected with it going to a "cannister"? Maybe it's just a breather pipe which is designed to capture and vent moisture? Until the engine gets properly warmed through and is routinely running hot you're always going to have mayo? Do you know for how long the pipe had been gunked up with mayo? My point is that it could have been like that for years and its current state is actually no worse?
High tickover is likely to be an air leak from the carbs and I'd say that the moisture is condensation rather than HG. The cam timing may well be out, the only way to really check is by setting it up properly with a dial gauge on the cams. IIRC there are some marks on the cams, but I don't think they are terribly accurate and are best considered a starting point for setting your dial gauges up. It's a good opportunity to do the valve clearances too 👍
That Ian Tyrrell chap just oozes class to me. I don't know why, other than him being nice and well spoken, but it's a British thing as well.
Fingers crossed for your engine!
As a Ferrari owner, I've had many moments like this 13:48
In my US muscle car experience, 90% of carb problems are actually ignition problems.
Flipping heck, I freaked out stripping/rebuilding the twin carbs on the MGB, you’re a very brave boy Jack 😁
The Carburettor Whisperer himself, just down the road from me. However my carb fuelled car would be unseemly in his workshop.
Revs refusing to drop could be an air leak on the intake side.
Yes, exactly. You can spray starting fluid (be careful!) to check if engine speed changes during idle. Other thing to check that throttle spindle nut is not overtightened - it can cause throttle to stick slightly open now and then.
What i thinking, had this many times, inlet or split hose.
Having those breather pipes off and cleaning the crud out of them, that crud
May have been sealing the leak. Also sucking in moisture creating the condensation crud.?
When he said the revs didn't want to drop, the first thing that came to mind was a vacuum leak of some sort. Did you check the vacuum reading at idle before the carb rebuilds? How does it compare to the vacuum reading after the rebuilds?
Highs and lows mate, checking the timing's free, and then you know where you're at, the distributor workings sound worthwhile chasing up on too, chin up!
Keep in mind that you did what you could to tune the car for it’s mechanical condition at the time. Then, when you change one thing with the car (timing, carb settings including cleaning jets, exhaust, secondary air pumps, etc.) then your car will instantly run rougher until you retune it. Even a disconnected or leaking vacuum line will cause you to retune the engine FROM THE BEGINNING once you fix it.
Break it down into its most basic components. Does the engine have acceptable compression and leak-down in ALL cylinders? Are there ANY vacuum, air, or fuel leaks at all? Are the spark plugs gapped correctly and the correct temperature for the car? Is the engine timed with itself correctly (camshafts to crankshaft)? Is the distributor in perfect working order (including and especially the vacuum advance if there is one)? Is the distributor curved properly? Is it timed with the engine with a timing light? Are all fueling components working well (pump, filters)? THEN AND ONLY THEN, tune the carbs to match the engine. Then you’ve given your car the best possible chance of running correctly, without tuning the car to make up for something else wrong. Think very methodically and simply. And a vacuum gauge is your friend.
Sorry for the long comment. Hope this helps.
Yep my thoughts exactly stephen!
I'm impressed he rebuilt those carbs, thats tough.
Great video, just subscribed. Being 47 years young myself I thought there's a chap with good taste. 308 in the garage plus vintage RC cars, so 80s oh happy times! 👍👌
Yep! Those off-road RC cars didn't escape my attention. Some are boxed too. Decent examples sell for good money now. 😁
That’s fantastic, thanks for subbing David. Enjoy your 308
love your channel sorry about the car I just subscribe 🙏👍👍👍👍👍👍😁😁
Agree with the comments about Iain Tyrrell the find of 2020 along with Ratarossa and Franies Garage. Keep your chin up Jack, your car is stunning and will get even better and it all makes for great content!
Thanks you Andrew.. have a great Xmas!
If Iain Tyrell can't help you, both you and the Influenzo are beyond help.
Great vid, your perseverance is admirable! Makes me look at my 914 which I’m slowly restoring with new vigour! Happy Christmas. 👍🤘
In my old life I was a mechanic for over 25 years. We would see this white creamy substance in breather systems all the time when the car is only run on short journeys. Condensation builds up and causes the breathed engine oil vapour to turn white. It can be a bit of a task to clear out breather lines etc but normally doesn’t indicate anything sinister. Not saying deffo not serious but I would say just a victim of short journeys and will be fine. You can pressurise the cooling system and see if the oil on the dip stick turns white, have had that before indicating head gasket failure but 9 times out of 10 it’s not serious.
Thanks buddy.. I’m working on it!!
Condensation is normal in engines that don't get hot, drive it harder to burn it off.
Iain Tyrrell's UA-cam channel is great. His re-build of Harry's Espada is worth a watch.
Keep at it Jack, you will get there in the end, then it will be all smiles again, 😀👍👍👍.
A great job on the carb rebuilds Jack but I think you know it’s Tyrell time and sooner would be better than later. The man is clearly an absolute Guru and general legend although he hasn’t been on my radar much longer than you. A chin wag with Scott the Ratarossa might be a good idea too!
This has sailed up to be one of my favorite channels the last six months. Jack’s humor is stellar!
That is very kind.. thank you!!
Agreed
His honesty as well. Doesn't try to present an Instagram perfect life, very open and shares the bad as well as the good. And ... he replies to comments. A lot of UA-camrs don't. Top man!
Don’t forget to change those floats !!
Yep they’re on order!
I can see a few more grey hairs appearing on your show !!!!!! If anyone can fix it you can /or IAIN\ great content STAY SAFE 👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧
If you watch Car Wizard, David, Omega garage, in America he has been working on a Ferrari 308GTB? from the show Car Trek, David did away with distributors and put a new system in, this could a good investment with ''Influenzo'' such engines are pretty fickle, everything Must be 110% right otherwise they will Not run right.
Saw that but it’s a lot of cash!
@@Number27 yes, although IF it was too solve poor running it is worth it, your engine appears to be in good mechanical health. Spark plugs can be cleaned using a blow torch, getting them quite hot burn the crud off them, Allen Milliyard does over the BBQ.
love the fact your rebuilding webbers in your living room .. Class :)
Something tells me he is single..
hopefully, the mayo in your water isn't a warped/cracked cylinder head.. got my fingers crossed for you pal hopefully it's just the head gasket split between oil/water jacket seals.
I really enjoy the adventure! Keep the fantastic content coming!
Iain is a legend and a fine gentleman as well. Glad to see you two working together. You both have highly educational and entertaining channels. I hope you guys can find a way to avoid a full rebuild. And remember, wear your belt. We need to keep you safe in the Infuenso. UA-cam would not be the same without you!
Did you replace the floats?
Also you can get gunk and condensation in pipes like that, I have had it in the vapour recovery system of my 164. It could also be from a previous head gasket failure that has been fixed but not flushed out
The floats were on order.. now received but have other priorities to attend to right now! Will fit them later.
@@Number27 thanks for getting back to me, about that mayo stuff, depending on how long it was has been left undriven in the past it could just be a big build on up condensation, you would know if coolant and oil were mixing as you would be using either a lot of coolant or of oil, most cooling systems don't use coolant, so if you are loosing some, then it probably is mixing, but if you aren't then I wouldn't worry too much
Hi Jack. My I suggest getting a sample of coolant analysed for oil / hydrocarbon contamination and do a compression test in order to rule in (or out) head gasket failure. I t might save you a lot of work. You could also do a coolant system pressure test. If there is no goo in the coolant header tank it might just be condensation in a breather pipe ...if that is what it is....good luck and keep enthusiastic!
Yes good idea.. think I’ll do that!
@@Number27 oh, I meant to say I had a lotus which would not return to idle speed....it turned out to be leaking float combined with air leaks at the throttle spindle seals.....the bearings were perfect, but the seals were hard and slightly off the bearing seat. The care drove fine at wider throttle openings. !!
Am I the only car nut who’s thankful that carburettors are largely a thing of the past?
What about ignition timing with contact points
I’m always impressed with the amount of work that goes on in English garages. They seem so small. Well done.
Thanks Keith!! And yes, they are tiny!!
Haha yes, I agree...watching “Ratarossa” who just picked up a project 512BBI...I’m astounded at how he is planning a rebuild in such a small garage!! I complain about my 30’x40’ barn sometimes 😂.
What a coup, working with Iain. I thought you were pretty cool to start with, now you are elevated to hero status.
You should do an oil test to see the percentage of antifreeze/water in your oil as well as any metals - copper, tin, lead, etc. That will tell you a lot.
Yes I might well have to do that!! Thanks for watching!
Cant beat listening to an expert talking .
Sorry to hear youre having more bother with Influenzo. I hope you get the problems out soon. Iain Tyrell is fab and I'm sure "flu" will be fettled ASAP. Great video, keep your chin up, and try to have A very Merry Christmas. Ben 😷🚌🚍🏎️🐎🐎🐎🐎🦌🦌🦌🇮🇹🇬🇧
Don’t be too downcast Jack. 100% you have a cambelt that has jumped a tooth. I have seen the same thing on 2 different 308’s that were supposedly maintained by ‘professionals’ with precisely the same symptoms you described. You can sort this out yourself no problem, as you have shown you have the proficiency (and I assume you have the 308 GT4 workshop manual?). Good luck and we await a successful conclusion. 👍
Jack, I have spent the last day binging on your 308 journey. It is a car that I still covet. I was so broken up when you had the “accident” with the jack. I must say, you rebounded so well and the car looks FANTASTIC! I like the front spoiler, but was surprised how well removing the rear spoiler improved the look. I am across the pond but have always preferred the euro bumper and lighting kit. You really have outdone yourself! Great job!!
I had I Peugeot 205 1.9 ,. Had a newer engine fitted . But the car wouldn't rev passed 4,000 rpm . Turned out to be two block connection on the engine was the wrong way round . It now would rev passed 4,000 rpm how ever the power just wasn't there it grumbled to 6,000 rpm ... It was the weight in the distributor that wasn't advancing the timing ... £30 later a second hand dizzy with working suction weight . Boom she flow to 6,500 rpm like a pocket rocket should banged out 130 mph on the way home in the bypass that was 2 miles long .
Well just my 3 cents: Remember that a full tune up begins with determining correct timing, proper ignition(spark,wires, distributor(s)advance(s) and then carburetion lastly! You may have gone the other way since the beginning not following any real order.
Regarding the idle jets Ian is correct, many carb 308 cars in America now need more now because of fuel differences back in the 70s. because many 308's were fitted with small idle jets to make them run lean for for emission tests but ran poorly(popping and misfire at low rpm) . Going from stock .50 to .55 or .55 to .60 will make a big improvement and needed enrichment. Also make sure the air corrector jets are the same, they are sometimes mismatched due to meddling by former owners. Insofar as revs not returning to idle make sure to check each carb throttle stop screws and and throttle cable adjuster. Keep going, don't give up, all the best for the Xmas Holidays, M from Canada.
Iain Tyrrell is a fountain of knowledge - always fascinating to listen to!
Yep he’s a great guy!!
And you'll probably need a fountain of cash to pay him
@@LOTPOR0402 I think Harry's Lamborghini V12 rebuild at Iain's workshop was around 25k pounds.
I'm of the opinion too that winter time short runs are the root cause of your maionaize. Interesting too what Iain said about the cambelt being a tooth out. Really pi*** me off when so called mechanics just bodge things. Grrrrrr.. Do the job properly or don't bother. Love the car loved the Weber re-build.. Loved Iains huge knowledge.. Much respect.Forgotten all about centrifugal advance curves and bob weights.😂😂
Unlucky chap. Passion doesn’t come cheap but there are plenty of people out there who have never even experienced passion. Having just rebuilt an E type and killed a race car, 427 Cobra and Cayman engine in the last three months believe me I know. But I also know I can’t take it with me, and will rebuild better in the end. It will be worth it so remember Churchill’s words: “When you’re going through hell, keep going”. Good luck and thanks for the videos.
I wonder if the water you're getting in the pipe is simply due to low mileage and the damp weather we're having at the moment. I've seen a lot of complaints of mayonnaisey deposits in cars when they're not being driven much/getting hot enough. Perhaps cleaning it out again and going for a long run may be the answer before you go the whole engine rebuild route (and check the thermostat is opening at the right temperature) - or at least wait until Spring/warmer weather before going as far as an engine rebuild. Timing and stuff definitely worth checking in the interim though. Keep going! :)
It is possible for sure.. thanks for the support Drew!
Jack, I agree with what many others have said. I wouldn't be worrying about the mayo (yet), looks like there was so much that breathers were blocked and the vapours could no longer escape which worsened the buildup. Clear all the gunk, check that the breather system now works and then focus your attention on the new running issues which can probaby be fixed with tuning & timing. I have fitted a catch tank to the breather system in my classic, its been on a few years and I can reliably say in summer I get a few ml per 1000miles, in winter I can catch maybe 150ml of oil/water mix in only 500miles (and I don't do short journeys)!!!!
Hope you will find the source of the sludge and no rebuild will be needed. Please have a close look at the centrifugal advance (as Ian suggested). Had a similar problem with MGC-SUs and it wasn't carb related, the right advance springs made all the difference. Check with a strob-timer trough the whole rev range... Keep it up!
Really feel your pain.... and I also have not too dissimilar issues on my old jalopy 😖🤔. This upload; despite being a different type of V8 engine; just might help pave the way to getting mine sorted.
Best of luck Jack. I really hope that the Horse will prance again.
But Jack you bought a car made for "poor" people they do have to cut some corners while building it, old"rich" me I bought an 04 Honda Jazz as I can't do any repairs now n can't effort too much for repairs Its OK mate you doing what you enjoy doing what matters most in life, you must be doing something right Jack as we all love your videos
Absolutely riveted to the ferrari content.
I have a GPX750 R motorbike that is having a similar problem with the revs staying high. The winter weather got the better of me before I fitted the new control cables that I bought. But I reckon the problem is going to be with the carb rebuild I just performed. Have you tried balancing the carbs yet?
Not sure I agree with the "Alternator Ozone" theory - that would imply a) the windings are not insulating (potential short circuit) b) the windings (and the alternator) would be generating voltages above 12kV - sorry, no, not even a malfunctioning one will do that. If there's ozone in the engine bay it's far more likely to be due to atmospheric pollution. My friend (who owns a company specialising in belts) says failure is generally mechanical due to over- or under-stressing a belt, destroying the re-inforcement fibres. Rubber deterioration doesn't really happen the same way it used to (mainly synthetics these days) and is usually chemical contamination.
As I understand it your 308 has removable WET Cylinder liners there is a seal at the bottom of the Liners where they protrude into the crankcase. But what troubles me is there is no sign of water in the oil. This sounds very Alfa Giulia like. Very interesting about brass floats and E95 from Ian. He is a wizard with Webbers Good luck.
I thought Iain Tyrell was mostly known as a jazz singer. I looked it up on his bio. Since when did he enter the automotive industry? Here is one of the standards: All of me, why not take all of me, Can't you see I'm no good without you....
At least it's giving you plenty of content for the channel.
If you had bought something like a BMW straight 6, you would just be driving it, reliably and that would be boring.
Your car should rip in 5th gear from 80mph to 120mph like a sportbike (which is around 4k rpm to 6k rpm) Check cam timing, but I would think if cam timing was off you would have real trouble balancing the carburetors. Do you have both sets of points in the distributors? It's possible only the idle circuit in the distributor is functional and thats why the distributor timing is set as it is.
Do your cam timing before anything else. Ian knows his thing!
Then set up your ignition timing and check that the avance works as it should.
The carbs are the last thing to adjust.
Hope you manage to get it running in the end😉👍
PS: most older engines that don't run that often get condensation in the cam covers/block voids etc...
This gives you mayonnaise in the breather circuit.
Run the engine harder and for longer. And do more oil changes! It'll be fine😁
Welcome to the F-owners club. To keep them on the road its a full time job ! I did noticed you aged more then 1 year in those last 8 months (!). That is the price to pay for your passion and emotions. Can you do me a favor. Calculate the bills and invoices over al the years that car exists. Assuming regular maintenance was about 2.000 £ each year in Holland and most of those in the UK you have on paper. Would interesting to see total in contrast to the mileage. Sell this one and buy a RHD for the UK. Much saver !
You often hear people lamenting the march of technology. How traction control, ABS, auto transmissions etc. have ruined modern cars.
You don’t hear people complain about fuel injection though. Mostly because carbs are generally shit 👍
I remember not long into your ownership of this cracking car, you reported on the Mayo found earlier. Hopefully not a massive fault and can easily be rectified, if for the headache of disassembling the engine. I do agree with Rob Parton though, something to bear in mind 👍.
Sit on it Jack, kick back and have a chilled Christmas. Better things to come 🥂.
I watch this video today (Oct. 2021.) and I think "my god, why is he cleaning the carburetors again..." And than I see the date... :)
If it ain't overheating and using water and the oil looks good in the sump ,would not worry about it .Lots of cars suffer from condensation forming sludge (under the oil filling cap) ,especially in the winter .Give it a good run
Like Ian said check the mechanical advance and vacuum advance in the dizzy ,then the more advanced cam timing
Years ago I had a MK1 fiesta that run like a bag of Shite .After lots of messing about ,I took the dizzy out only to find the mechanical advance mech seized .Freed it off and it was perfect
Really enjoy following your channel Jack, all the way from NZ. Hopefully Iain will be able to help. Keep up the good work. Phil.
Thank Phil and my best to New Zealand 🇳🇿!!
Sorry to hear about your woes. Several things spring to mind. If the 'Bob weights' in the distributor are even a tiny bit cruddy the engine will be flat as a fart from the get go. The cam timing should be absolutely bang on. Unfortunately, I think that's where the problem is. Just looking at the position of the distributor raises questions! As for the gunk in the breather pipe. If you are not having to top up the coolant then I don't think the problem is a head gasket/oil cooler (linked to the rad?)/engine rebuild.
For every gallon (litre) of fuel the engine burns you will get an equivalent amount of condensation (water) during the combustion process. This will burn off harmlessly if the vehicle is doing long journeys. If it's just popping down the road from time to time then you can guarantee the engine won't dry out and the condensation will mix with the oil and 'emulsify'.
This is the gunk you are seeing I think. The other thing that suffers is the exhaust. They tend to corrode from the inside out because of all the water sat in there. Again, this isn't an issue if the vehicle is taken on long (regular) runs. The exhaust gets super hot and the condensation will be burnt off! Best of luck with the car.
I think you have to realise that when you buy a classic you are inheriting often a number of things that are just not right caused by poor previous repairs (often by "professionals") or just plain lack of appropriate maintenance. Whenever we buy a new car - own 11 classics, including a GT4 Dino we spend the time to go over them thoroughly and rectify what we find is wrong. Ignition, cam timing and carburation are usually incorrect. Also always use synthetic oil in both engine and transmission systems, one of the many advantages is it reduces condensation. I am an ex Euro , mainly Italian, garage proprietor so all based on vast experience and with a special expertise in engine tuning.
Wouldn’t a Corvette or Mustang have been a better choice ? 65 through 72 maybe. Camaro , Galaxy. You could use them to tow around that Ferrari.
I wouldn't worry too much about the water in the crank case. What color is the oil on the dipstick? Watching the video, I can see it was pretty cold outside, and Ferraris can take 30 minutes for the oil to get to operating temps before the moisture evaporates. I bet your oil temp gauge barely moved off the lower peg on that drive. Good luck!
Good luck with the temperamental Prima Donna then.... am sure it will all work out. It’s just one those tantrums that are par for the course with such a Diva as your 308...with Iain Tyrell in your corner you cannot but succeed....
I think you'll be best served by focusing on one problem at a time and don't allow yourself to get distracted by a new discovery mid-fix. Right now your task is to sort the lack of power at the top end. OK so take a look at the cam belts as Iain suggested and make sure the cams are correctly synched. If so, then it sounds like the distributor is the next suspect, given that it has been turned well beyond the midway point. BTW - you've probably looked at this already, but years ago my brother's car had a similar issue: everything appeared correct in the garage and on the road it would rev and accelerate fine at lower speeds, but just wouldn't pull the way it should once the speed got higher. Turned out the fuel pump wasn't able to make full pressure, so couldn't provide enough petrol under full load and high revs. Put in a new one, instantly sorted.
Iain's comments about the distributor mechanism is quite important. I helped a neighbour with his Triumph Herald that wasn't running well at all. The bob weights in the distributor were frozen in place with dried out lube, so no mechanical advance. The vacuum advance unit was punctured, so no vacuum advance. The car was running with whatever static advance it was set up at idle.
Now, given that your distributor is at the limits of its adjustment range, I'd suggest that your initial static advance is screwed up, and the mechanical advance isn't adequate at high speed because the distributor is in the wrong position. Many things are pointing at incorrect cam timing.
Put a timing light on it and see what is going on with that distributor.
Just remember, the 308 is likely an interference engine, so if you reset the timing belts incorrectly, you could bend a lot of valves very quickly. Be ultra careful and, if you do adjust the timing belts, rotate the engine by hand and stop if there is any interference and don't press harder.
When adjusting the throttle, look the little wholes are not open!brasscrew off.use the little 5mm synchroscrews. The little stroke brings not enough gasspeed for the mainsystem by little rev. So you have to use the synchroscrews .Ask Mr Tyrell. This carbs are very sharp
Check the throttle spindle nut and if it has specific washer. If they are too tight, it can cause throttle sticking slightly and causing the symptoms you are describing. I know you don´t have DCOE´s but I think you have the same system as here: ua-cam.com/video/uIELDx_VHJk/v-deo.html
Ian gave you the best tech advice and you just ignored it. And how can you just jump to the conclusion that you need a full rebuild? Did you check compression? Did you perform a cylinder leak down test? And how can you check carburetor mixture without an exhaust gas analyzer? And why would you run the car without the air box?
Use the synchroscrews for idle 4 turns, idlejet 57-58,and you will think there works an injection.distributor not to much forward.
I wouldn't rebuild that engine. The extra moisture probably due to infrequent use and moisture builds in crank case which happens to all cars. Check crank case breather is clear and replace any breather filters. Change oil and after good bit of use check breather pipe again, if clear you are fine. Check also if coolant level is dropping in which case it might be coolant being sucked into cylinder. Ps I'm not a professional mechanic.
As others say mayo could be from not being run upto temperature. Try a good quality engine flush additive followed by a good hot oil and filter change. Enjoy your vids, keep up the good work 👍