How to replace the timing belt on the Volvo 850, S70, V70, etc. (Part 2 of 2)- VOTD
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- Опубліковано 7 жов 2024
- This is part 2 of 2 of my Volvo S70, 850, V70 timing belt replacement video. Installation procedures.
Part 1 of 2: • How to replace the tim...
Common mistake if you think the belt is to short: • Is your new the timing...
Torque values:
Tensioner Roller, 30 Ft Lbs.
Idler Roller, 18 Ft Lbs.
Hydraulic Tensioner, 18 Ft Lbs.
Water Pump, 12 Ft Lbs.
I have replaced several timing belts on these cars and have not had any problems to date. Does NOT apply to the Volvo S/V70's made after the early 1998 year that do NOT have the hydraulic tensioner.
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Disclaimer: • In this video I share ...
Basic car care UA-cam channel: / rspiwin
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Visit my Website for special tools, my wish list and other helpful information: www.RobertDIY.com
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Hey Robert, the instructional videos for the timing belt replacement is hands down the most detailed I have seen to date. Your thoroughness is second to none. Thanx for your passion and dedication to everything volvo!
You are welcome. Thanks.
Just did mine last weekend (98 S70 T5), everything went smoothly (save for not having the serpentine tensioner tool, but I figured out a way to work around it), and the total cost was under $300 (local dealer charges $1300).
Keep up the great work, your tutorials are awesome and very easy to follow!
Thank you for sharing the timing belt work on the S70! I have the mechanical tensioner which I think makes the work easier than the hydraulic ones. However, it is very true that the mechanical ones could fail. It did happen to my 98 S70 at around 100k miles. I was extremely lucky to have caught the failure in my garage when the T-belt was making unusual sound as it was cutting through the cover. Just lucky it happened at home!! All ball bearings were gone, but tensioner was still in place. The S70 is still running strong ~ heading towards ~400k miles. Just durable vehicle if you can do the basic maintenance!
Note also that the belt sizes are different between the mechanical and hydraulic tensioner types (~6 teeth difference).
Glad to read that you caught the problem before it destroyed the motor. You are right, these cars are great and can run a long time. I was aware that the newer motors with the mechanical tensioners have a different size belt.
Glad you found the video. If I were you, I would be tempted to have it towed home so you don't risk breaking the belt.
This has really given me a slot to finalize my decision to go ahead with the payment for a V70 1998 wagon in the next 48hrs. this video is cool. i used a Mazda 626 and i do things myself and i hope to do same with my new purchase. bravo boss. will love to keep in touch.
Say a quick prayer, haha I like it, human just like the rest of us. In nearly 40 years of working on cars I never did a cam belt; took out engines, gearboxes, clutches, most everything else but this always looked like a dark art. Now I'm finding it harder to find a mechanic I can trust locally, so what the heck, I'm gonna give it a try! Thanks for the wisdom as ever RS.
You are welcome
Glad it helped, thanks for watching.
Just got a 1998 v70r, first car and I thank you. I successfully did this and i'm 16!
I hope that you will have great success with putting everything back together. Glad you did not experience a belt failure.
Robert, always a pleasure to watch you in action. I took off all of the components (belt -Two pulley's - water pump - tensioner ) and unfortunately discovered that the tensioner pulley was wrong and the Gates timing belt was the wrong size. I had ordered the kit off of Amazon for 115$. Ughh man.
You're so spot on right about the torx bolt holding on the tensioner. You don't want to strip that . Mine was in bad shape from a previous owner. I had to apply a flat long bar against the ratchet head while unscrewing the bolt. I'll be replacing that torx bolt . Yes indeed !
This might help somebody - After writing down the mileage on the sticker , place clear plastic tape over the sticker face so as to preserve the information. I also write down that info on my Volvo book.
That tensioner pulley bolt comes with the new part, they are attached.
Sad to read about your parts. That is why I try to only order parts from suppliers that specifically support our cars. If they ship you something wrong, they will usually overnight the corrected part no questions asked.
I like to put the sticker in the glove box. I think I will go purchase an OEM sticker from Volvo from now on, if they will sell them. They are aluminum and writing on them with an ink pen leaves the data pressed into the sticker, so if the ink wears off the impression from the pen is still there.
Robert DIY Glove box ? Good idea.
also engrave the mileage on the cover if the sticker ever gets faded or lost.
I have a '98' S70 . your videos have been invaliable to me. Thanx, bro.
Glad to hear it
Thanks once again for the video. I used your CV Axle video the other day. Today the timing video. Car fired up and drives fine. I ended up having to do the water pump too (it was leaking). Thanks again.
Thanks again, Robert. I've done this a few times before but it's always good to watch the video for review before I do it again .
+Curt Saunier Thanks for watching. I have watched it a few times myself. lol
Robert DIY to
Great video! The only advise I have has to do with removing the lower pulley. Yours was pretty clean, but if it had oil or dirt around it, the belt ends up with it all over it as well. I advise removing the lower pulley and cleaning the area.
Haha, 169,677 was the mileage on my V70 when I bought it! Great video as always, answered pretty much all questions I had. I need to take care of this soon, because I have no clue when it was last done.
+Alex P thanks for watching.
Robert is the big brother that always helped me work on my cars. Thank You Bro
LOL, you are welcome.
Thank you so much for this video. I may be buying a 97 850 with 88K miles. It's in great shape but the timing belt was never replaced. This video gives me hope of saving some money and doing it myself. You do a great job of explaining and your camera work is very sharp.
Thank you for making the most thorough Volvo videos Robert!
You are welcome
Thank you very much Robert, I used your videos for my first time changing Timing Belt and Waterpump. Very informative and practical and a positive person to deliver it :) Preben form Denmark, Europe
Thank you for watching and for your feedback. Hope you have a great summer.
You've saved us a ton of hours on my 17 year-olds V70. Much appreciated.
you are welcome.
You're the greatest, all your video's are outstanding. GOD BLESS YOU AND THANK YOU SO MUCH
Thank you very much.
Thank you for the most thorough Volvo videos Robert!
You are welcome
excellent video! I'm pretty comfortable doing my own work, but having your video to reference is awesome. Thanks Robert.
you are welcome.
Hey Paul. If the belt broke or slipped the head is destroyed and it will need a new head and / or pistons (lower end). If it's just due, that's another story and doable. The tensioner is a little different, it has a mechanical tensioner and the timing is set a little different but the guys on Matthews Volvo site can help with the minor differences. Let me know if you have any questions.
good video. easy to follow. I am about to do the belt on my v70. For those who don't want to fab the belt tensioner pulley tool, IPD sells the tool and a pin lock for about 20 bucks I think.
Jeremy Phillips It's $30 plus shipping. I sell a tool set for $9 shipped that will fit in your pocket and tool box. Thanks for watching.
Excellent videos (1 and 2), very detailed. I greatly appreciate the time and effort you took to make and post them !
Bl Ah Thank you for watching.
You should be ok as long as you don't hear roller noise. Sometimes people change the belt only and leave the rollers and water pump along. If the rollers go bad it will cause the belt to jump time which would be as bad as the belt breaking. So if you hear the rollers squealing when you first start the car cold, I would replace everything. If you are skilled enough to slip a roller out and put a new one in, that would work as well but most folks don't even try that.
Huge thank you for this guide as well as your PCV guide. I tackled both projects over the past couple of weekends with very little previous mechanical experience. Hoping to get another 70k out of my '94 850 (currently somewhere around 300k miles - odometer died in 2011). Thanks again!
David Kapustinski Good deal, thanks for sharing. You can check the actual miles on that car. - ua-cam.com/video/9K-1WChRr9k/v-deo.html
David Kapustinski Fix that odometer so you will know when to do services. - ua-cam.com/video/-5XzLpfCMTE/v-deo.html
Robert DIY Wow! Awesome thanks for the info!
Well i followed the way you did and it worked.Thanks for you nice video and teaching the right way it is.
Daniel Goldenberg Good to read. Thanks for watching.
Robert, I like to say on behalf of all the Volvo community thank you for sharing your knowledge on these white engines as they are called. I am doing a head gasket along with water pump,timing belt and serpentine belt replacement. Do I need to take the crank pulley off to remove the timing belt? It is caught behind the crank pulley and won't release so I was going to try removing the pulley.
+Carlos Lozano watch the end of part 1 of 2. What kind of car do you have?
Robert, I got sick. Sorry about the late response to your reply. I have a 1996 Volvo 850 turbo wagon. I actually jacked the engine by the oil pan about an inch and was able to remove timing belt. It got jammed somehow upon removal. It was an original Volvo belt which I doubt the owner had done. The car was a "rescued horse". I got it with a bad heater core,broken windshield,bald tires but transmission was good to and had a lot of power. You are right about these cars being a lot of fun. Thank you again Robert. I am changing out the water pump, timing belt, upper motor mount, fuel filter along with the head gasket job while I have it all the wrenches out. Take care. By the way, you should get a sticker that says "My other Volvo is a Volvo".
I absolutely love your videos. VERY detailed and extremely informative!
Thank you!
+NuarStanger Thanks for watching.
Robert, thank you so much. I wish you were my neighbor, you would be fun talk to. God bless you!
Wow, thanks
Very good job Robert!. I now fell good about doing the timing belt replacement.
Eric TheTeacher Thanks for watching.
Great videos on the timing belt job. Extremely helpful. I think I'll give it a shot on both my '98 S70T and '05 V70 2.5T.
ua-cam.com/video/YpOYTVpzzic/v-deo.html
Great video I've just done mine on the 3-4-2014, I watched a couple of times before doing both belts, water pump, and idlers at 188000 miles, the hydraulic tensioner was in good order although the same couldn't be said for the idlers and pump, I think I replaced them just in time as they were all noisy and had play in the pump.
One thing I did notice was my exhaust cam was one tooth out clockwise, I have done 1600 miles since buying the car a few weeks ago and the previous owner had the timing belt changed at 93000 and there had not been any performance issues since then with one tooth out.
kdri155 Yes, it's hard to tell the timing is off by 1 tooth. May lose 5% of the cars performance.
Tire size and pressure should be on the sticker label inside your petro filler door. If not, look very close to the tire and you will see a set of numbers like 205-55/16.
Good, you should be. I'm nervous every time I pull a timing belt. The thing to remember is to pay attention to details. Also, when you are done, you are to turn the crank over four times (two belt cycles) before you hit the key to start the car. If you do that you will be fine. Do NOT over tighten bolts that you put back on the motor.
Not sure about the S80 crank (harmonic balancer) needing to be pulled. Google some instructions or check SwedeSpeed.
Yes I did turn back the cam sprocket without the belt on. When you have the crank on mark spot, the cams are suppose to clear the valves/pistons.
I usually change it with the PCV and oil changes. Usually once per year.
robert u did this video well i found a1999 volvo on line that needs belt and waterpump and the car is chep and i think im going to do this car thanks for the inspirational video
Dammmm Robert you are the best...job completed mostly with one hand.
Kenny Muhammad LOL, thanks for watching.
Great video, im going to replace my timing belt next saturday, im going to replace the water pump also. hope that nothing goes wrong:) Thank u for the information to change the belt in this video./// Christian
chris gustavsson Thanks for watching. Set the timing BEFORE removing the belt and roll the motor over by hand before starting it and all should be fine.
Wow, are they made of the same material? I have no problem getting the belt on.
Another great video, thank you Robert 👍🏼
You are welcome.
The FWD Volvo's are great comfortable cars but due to their age, have a lot of maintenance rolling on them. You can watch my "car buyer's video" and/or Google "Volvo 850 Buyer's Guide" and read up on them a little. I like the buyers guide on VolvoForums.
Going to do this in a few days, thanks for your video Robert!
+Cobain Windsurfer you are welcome.
Bought waterpump, timing belt and the two rollers from Volvo shop for employes yesterday, 299 dollars alltogether. But I think in US spareparts are cheaper anyway. Thought the second time to change timingbelt was 285 000 km, (165 000 + 120 000 km) but later I found out in the servicemanual that the second time is at 330 000 km (or 10 years??). Do you change before that intervall?
I would think they're a different material, they tend to be caramel coloured, sort of see through as well. But the teeth look no different. Actually, all the little Honda OHC lawn and garden engines use run in oil cambelts. My 850 was pretty snug behind the pulley, I was worried about maybe scoring the belt on some sharp casting. But I held my finger to it as it was running and it was fine. I'd use a little water based lube next time for sure.
Good show, volvo has at least 5 variations of motor for one model in one year....hmmm. Then the manual says "variations are due to our efforts to increase the belt's longevity".....well you have to think, maybe they should have tested and verified a single good design to start with. I feel a little bad for them trying to make cars affordable, reliable, and emissions compliant is a pick any two, situation. Bring on the age of the golf carts. Right on with the video, helped me understand the timing marks (critical). Thanks
You are welcome
Great tutorial Robert, thank you.
You are welcome.
robert G8 vids! i did complete TB service for belt/tensioners/pullies/water pump. heeding your advice, i bought 3 brand new "highest quality"T45's for removing the tenacious timing belt tensioner pully. it was still stripping after 1st 2 T45's. it was about 35% stripped. no good. then, i noticed that there is a thin 1/32"-ish collar on the outside of the torx collar...it is one in the same with the torx. you can bite on this with vice grips.
That one is a little tight but it is easy compared to most. Thanks for watching.
Hi Robert, I have a 1999 Volvo C70 T5 with the B5234T3 engine that has the VVT on the exhaust cam. I'm diagnosing why it doesn't start very well and tries to stall after a cold start, after the mechanics did the timing. They changed the camshaft position sensor too but it didn't fix the issue. I was suspecting the timing to be a tooth off, but it seems everything is aligning now that I'm looking into it myself. The mechanics kept changing more and more parts from alternator to ignition coils but the issue persists. My Volvo repair manual isn't much help, it tells me to take it to a Volvo dealership for timing if it's the newer 1999 model - but my local Volvo dealership asked if it's a S70 and if it's a diesel, so I can't trust them either 😂
It starts a bit better when it's warm, but it stalled randomly with the check engine light on, throwing a code about the camshaft position sensor.
ua-cam.com/video/cWKOi8D4SWQ/v-deo.htmlsi=sFvyA2qb2Nez2IAf
ua-cam.com/video/Jc4pfC3D3EU/v-deo.htmlsi=h0NFUDyCrO4oVU6f
Being a tooth or two off on the timing usually will not cause the car to fail to start or stay running.
I‘m about to that today. Wish me luck!
Just follow the video. ;)
Cool, some people do that.
This was very informative, thank you!
You are welcome
Thank you Robert!
You are welcome.
Very cool. And what a great car. Is the AWD system still functioning?
the rest of the tricks for getting the belt past the harmonic balancer and plastic shield and that other thing in the way between them would be helpful.
You can pull the harmonic balancer.
That sure is tight slipping that belt behind that balancer pulley! I just did the belt on my 850 yesterday and I think a bit of lube might be a good idea there. Maybe some 50/50 dish soap and water.
Thank you Robert appreciate your videos GodBless you
+Emilio Gonzalez Thank you. Also, thanks for watching.
Always use the plastic clip on the tensioner. My tensioner failed premature (non-oem) and that little clip saved the engine.
Wow, how did you know the tensioner failed?
yes robert sorry from uk yes its a turbo diesel 2.4 140 bhp 2000 i think the timing belt is at the front of engine and the injector pump belt is at the back of the engine which in the uk is the left hand side
John Lay I can't find my manual at the time. Try Google, you may find some instructions on a forum.
I have never heard any story about an OEM belt snapping, that was within it's time change schedule. Most belt companies should have good belts that will last the 115,000 km schedule. All the stories I have heard/read were people that failed to replace them. These are interfierence motors so valve damage will happen if you let the belt break. Another reason the belt breaks is that people fail to replace the rollers, the rollers fail/sieze and causes the belt to break.
Not the same engine, but Volvo 740 made in 1990, we had the belt fail standing at traffic lights after 6 months and 8000 miles of ownership. The engine was replaced under warranty but the dealer in Michigan spent a month at it.
Great tutorial.
Thanks for watching.
Did it Robert!! Thanks for your tips!!
Santos Baca Sweet. Glad it worked out.
my god i wish i had watched this before doing a 8 hour job on not changing my timing belt couse it was the wrong one so i had to re-use the old one and i changed the belt that was driving the power steering pump and alternator and the a/c stuff this was a bloody pain to do and i do not recommend to rush this if you are in a borrowed space, im going to buy a new timingbelt on thursday and change it next week hopefully my back pain cures from this 8 hour job whew it was a challenge and i really do have to point out that i wish you showed how you put the dampener plate back in place couse i could not get that back into place for some reason but im going to put it back when im gonna replace the belt again next week.
I don't even know what kind of car you have...
@@RobertDIY its a volvo v70 1997 with the b5202s engine 2.0 sry for not mentioning it im sry.
excellent tutorial
+Edgar Bravo thanks for watching.
Hi, many thanks for the information... many thanks
Great Videos man
Thanks for watching
I feel I should mention this. Before you take the timing belt off, you might wanna consider removing the harmonic balancer. I almost didnt get the belt on. There was the metal thing, engine mount and a stupid enginecover in my way. Somehow I got the belt on by brute force. Hope the belt wont wear out prematurly
🤷🏾♂️
LOL, I think the 4 foot breaker bar is a little over kill but "better safe than sorry".
Why the oil cap gasket? The timing belt has nothing to do with the timing belt change. If you see oil on top of the motor you likely have a clogged PCV.
After removing the inner belt cover, it's a good idea to make another Whiteout mark on both pulleys that line up with some reference point on the cylinder head. That way you know where they are supposed to be should they happen to move. Since you remove the inner cover with its notches, it's useful to have another set of marks.
great video thank you much i made the 18mm block out of s7 great idea if you ever need anything i would be happy to make it for you and i may need to get that cam seal tool you got
+Rand Farris cool, thanks.
Hey Robert, excellent video once again. Just wanted to comment on the fact that your FCP kit didn't come with a plastic piece for the tensioner. I installed my kit last night and found the new plastic piece in the timing belt box. Kind of an odd place for it, but maybe yours was in another box in the package.
+Kyle Gamble ok.
very good
+Orlando Suarez thanks for watching.
Hey Robert, thanks for all you do man. I've been wrenching on my cars forever, too, and it's great to see a kindred spirit putting out such a quality product (your vids). Quick question: my tensioner weeped a drop or two of oil when I compressed it, think I should replace it?
Yes sir.
@@RobertDIY Thank you Robert
If it were me, I'd let it go for 10 years. The book says 7.
thank you nice video iam currently working on a 2000 s40 but iam confused about timing mine has same cam sprockets as this one but has vvt head kind without vvt selenoid top timing mark is missing scope points is out of time
Try this video: ua-cam.com/video/YpOYTVpzzic/v-deo.html
im a newb at the mechanic field im in college for it and I haven't gotten to that subject yet but my Volvo's timing belt seems cracked and worn I need to change it all I have is the belt not a kit I have most of the tools required in your video and don't have the funds to pay some1 do to the job and im VERY NERVOUS to start the job
Fantastic DIY Robert !.
I see that you havent changed your waterpump, isnt better to change the pump as well ?.
I change it if it is leaking, over 10 years old, or if it is after market.
How do I find the right timing belt? I've tried 3 belts . Help . I want to thank you for all you do . I have a 1998 Volvo s70 5 cylinder GLT turbo for cell. Everything works guard good shape do parts. I love this car but I need a truck I can't have both
ua-cam.com/video/eYOsx9rcAhs/v-deo.html
So, here I am going over video. I need the one that shows doing the water pump on 2000 S70 non turbo. Also how do I know if I should change the seals on Crank and Cam shaft? Should I go by how many miles? I don't think this vehicle was treated with much respect. The body is great, so I'd like a vehicle good on gas. Thanks Robert
If the seals are not leaking, leave them alone.
@@RobertDIY ok. Thank you
Thank you Mr Robert for all your videos which educate me a lot about fixing my 1999 Volvo S70. My radiator was busted (leak) the other day and I replaced it. After replacing it and starting the vehicle, I realized that the coolant reservoir was swelling up about to bust. I shut the car off and I think that the water pump and the timing belt needs to be changed out. I will be changing out the thermostat as well. Just in case I missed anything, do you think of anything else? Thank you so much for your videos.
+James Has the system ever ran low on coolant and overheated the engine?
+Hello Sir. My teenage son was driving it when the radiator got busted. I put some antifreeze in it and that's when I saw where it was leaking from. After replacing the radiator with coolant in it and start it up , it kind of running rough and I hear a squeaking sound like something was forced to turn by the belt. I also noted the coolant tank about to bust. That's when I turned the vehicle off. Supposedly the vehicle started steaming up a mile down the road according to my son. Before that, a hose was changed out and everything was fine. Thank you again for your expertise. Hoping for a good news. Keep up the good work Sir. Thank you much, James.
Sounds like it has a blown head gasket.
ua-cam.com/video/jsxPXltMFOc/v-deo.html
hey great work.
i have a question is it possible to replace the timing belt on a volvo 2000 s80 with out removing the crankshaft? because i dont have air tools, or the special tool (crankshaft holding tool)
also i saw your mark's move clock wise , did you turn back the crankshaft back with out the timing belt on?
Soap and water wouldn't do any harm. Give it a good blast of air after it's flipped into position. Actually I've worked with cogged belts that run in oil!
Hi... thanks for your videos I really like it... I have a volvo 850, but like many others I don't know much about car... can you let me know the size of the tires please? Thanks. (I'm follow you from N. Zealand)
Hi Robert. Im in South Africa, so buying parts from IPD or FCP is out of the question, due to shipping costs. The official volvo dealer here is really expensive due to the exchange rate of the Rand to the Dollar. I found a volvo specialist shop that stocks Goodyear cam and serpentine belts. Is it worth saving that extra money, as I have heard some horror stories about OEM belts snapping?
I have a question for you than no other mechanic could not answer in my country. I have ford focus from 2008 (europe model) with 1.4l engine that is 16v. not it has 45000km on 35 it started to do a rattling noise from 1200 to 2100 rpm when you lift off the gas and when the car is cold, when warm it used to not rattle but now its audible. in ford they told me that they need to check the timing belt but that is a lot of work. could timing belt do this rattle. power is oky, mot test is oky.
Man, I don't want to put anything on that belt that can cause it to slip, deteriorate, streatch, etc.
Hello..I have just bought a 98 Volvo s70. It looks worn from the outside and some inside....but it has 55,000mi.never owned a Volvo.. but where would the VIN numbers be...I want to make sure I didn't get got..don't have owners manual
volvo.custhelp.com/app/homeV3
hello Robert i am in the process of doing a timing belt change on my T5R. i got the motor timed with both camshafts on the top cover timing marks.
i only see ONE notch on my crankshaft that lines up w the oil pump. and also the timing belt lines up w the marking on the crankshaft pulley. can it be possible that my crank only has ONE marking aligning the oil pump? i have already removed my timing belt...now im having second guesses about timing. can the engine be not timed correctly even though all the top cam shafts sprocket marks line up?
help!!
thank you sir
Hi robert,I need the video for 1985 v
740 gle timing belt replacement
Did you search "red block" timing belt.
IPd has a good one
thanks for your quick reply and help
... do you recommend just leaving the plastic "post" broken off? I was thinking of trying to glue it but worried it may in glue itself and cause more problems. without the post I was worried the front cover might run against the roller that the "post" is there to protect. I followed your video and got everything on there just right before it broke, now I'm not sure if I should pull the pin on the tensioner if I need to mess with the lower cover, which is $70 and a few days out...
+Mark Begle just like I said, I leave it off. I didn't say that I try to glue it. That would be tragic, glue fails and the piece falls into the crank while the engine is turning and cut through the belt. 🤣
Hi Robert Do you have a video fro changing timing belt for a 1996 Volvo 850 CD sedan. Regards Peter Sheehan
Same same. Volvo Timing Belt Replacement, S70, 850, V70 (Part 1 of 2) - Auto Repair Series
Hi , I have a 1998 Volvo S70 , I think what's happening is I left the serpentine idler pulley under car for two weeks "due to wrong parts sent" and it rained a few days and moisture got in it which is creating rattling sound I'm guessing anyways ? I test drove seems to be doing fine except for that. Probably gonna have to replace that now .
+Emilio Gonzalez Pull the belt and see if the noise goes away.
Robert, the car in this video doesn't have VVT on the intake cam. Our 2000 V70 does. We got the car back together after belt change, but it won't start. There was slack in the intake cam when we aligned the timing marks. Should we take out that slack and THEN align the intake cam timing mark before installing the belt? Thanks for any help you or other commenters can give.
+Lee Reed Why did you change the belt?
+Robert DIY thanks for responding. Car has 214k, and my son was driving when it lost power and died. The water pump seized and destroyed the timing belt, which was overdue anyway. We bought the 2000 V70 just back in July.
Oh, so you put a belt on for nothing. When these cars jump time, it destroys the head. You will need a new head.
ua-cam.com/video/-2oIeIhpV44/v-deo.html
+Robert DIY well, that's not what I wanted to hear, but you're the expert. Thanks for being available and responding so quickly. Love your channel. At 214k, we may look for a used engine or another cheap Volvo.
Hi Micinum, I sent a message to your UA-cam page.
Hi. I am in South Africa. I have a 850 1997 model. I am looking for a standard radio with a cd player& bluetooth capabality. I don't want to put a after market product in.
Interesting.
I'm changing the timing belt on my 95 850. it's got the 2.4 no turbo. every parts store has two listed but the parts look pretty much the same. is there a way to tell from the Vin which part I need?
Hi Robert. Thanks for sharing your great videos!
I am changing the timingbelt/ idle roller/ tensionroller on my early "94 850 10v to but ran in to a strange problem.
After putting in the new [same spec. 4.7mm diameter idle/ tension rollers and the old tensioner] the new 139 teeth 21mm belt [as was installed before] would not fit! even with the tensioner pressed in all the way and pin locked! [plastic part not even installed]
I have removed the slack between the crank and the exhaustcam but it still will not fit around the waterpump / tensionroll..
Hope you could give me a sugestion? Thanks!
Is the belt properly installed under the pin at the bottom of the crank? At 3:29.
Hi, yes i also rotated the crank 2 rouds by hand and all marks where still on..
Rotated the crank? I have never heard of anyone doing that. lol
i mean, i managed to get the belt on.. it went realy tight, while the tensioner was stil pressed al the way in with the pin holding it in. then i turned the pulley 2 coplete rotations and all the timing marks were still but.. the belt is so tight that if i would release the tensioner pin, the tensioner has no where to go becaurse its already pressing tight against the tensionerroller.
One of the rollers is probably larger. Where did you get the parts?